
                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                      1 of 508
TI: Relation between wind-wave heights calculated from JONSWAP and PM spectra.
OT: You JONSWAP pu he PM pu jisuan de fenglang bogao zhijian de guanxi
AU: Xu,-D.-L.
AF: Shandong Coll. Oceanol., Qingdao, People's Rep. China
SO: TRANS.-OCEANOL.-LIMNOL.-HAIYANG-HUZHAO-TONGBAO. 1987. no. 1, pp. 1-4
PY: 1987
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The 0-order momentum of JONSWAP spectrum, with enhancement factor  gamma  as parameter, was calculated through an approximate integral. A ratio expression of wave heights based respectively on JONSWAP and PM spectra for various fetch, which is useful for practical purposes, was thereby obtained by using an empirical expression relating  gamma  and nondimensional fetch proposed by Mitsuyasu.
DE: wind-waves; wave-height; spectral-analysis
ID: JONSWAP-spectra; PM-spectra
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1604098

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                      2 of 508
TI: Analysis of wave field for typhoon 8509.
OT: 8509 hao taifeng bolangchang de fenxi
AU: Xu,-F.-X.; Xu,-L.-Z.
AF: Mar. Environ. Forecasting Cent., SOA, Beijing, People's Rep. China
SO: MAR.-SCI.-HAIYANG-KEXUE. 1987. no. 2, pp. 14-19
PY: 1987
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: With the wave-analysis data of the Northwest Pacific Ocean and from the coastal stations, the wave-field of typhoon 8509 was analysed and some corrections on the wave-field according to the strength and velocity of the typhoon and its relation with the periphery weather system were made. The distributional features of the wave field were thus obtained: the wave heights of the right hemicircle of the typhoon are greater than the ones of the left; the wave heights are directly proportional to the wind velocity and inversely proportional to the distance from the centre of the typhoon. The wave heights computed by a simple method agree well with observed heights.
DE: hurricanes-; hurricane-waves; fields-; wave-height; geographical-distribution; INW-; ISEW-
ID: typhoon-8509
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW); Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 1604046

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                      3 of 508
TI: Beaufort Sea extreme wave studies assessment.
AU: Murray,-A.; Maes,-M.
AF: Det Norske Veritas (Canada) Ltd., 1110-10201 Southport Rd. SW, Calgary, Alta., Canada
CA: Environmental Studies Revolving Funds, Ottawa, Ont. (Canada)
SO: ENVIRON.-STUD.-REVOLVING-FUNDS-REP.-SER. 1986. no. 023, 109 pp
IS: ISBN 0-920783-22-8
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this study, the two most recently publicly available hindcast studies for the Beaufort Sea have been reviewed. The studies, conducted respectively by Hydrotechnology and Seaconsult, differ markedly in their treatment of the storm windfields and the available fetch length. Consequently, there is a considerable disparity between their estimates of extreme wave heights for deep water conditions, although for shallow water the agreement is more favourable. A systematic assessment of their respective methodologies indicated factors which would help to undo some of the conservatism in the Seaconsult estimates and warrant a slight increase in the Hydrotechnology results.
DE: hydrodynamics-; wave-analysis; extreme-waves; wave-hindcasting; oil-and-gas-industry; safety-regulations; physical-oceanography; PNW,-Beaufort-Sea
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Ocean-operations-2388; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Arctic-Westward (PNW)
AN: 1603972

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                      4 of 508
TI: Stability and wave transmission response of stone- and dolos-armored rubble-mound breakwater trunks subjected to extreme wave heights.
AU: Carver,-R.D.; Dubose,-W.G.
CA: Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: 1986. 94 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A174 437/4/GAR.
RN: CERC-TR-86-10 (CERCTR8610)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: The purpose of the investigation was to obtain design information for stone and dolos armor used on breakwaters trunks and subjected to breaking and nonbreaking waves that exceeded the recommended design wave heights. Based on test results in which dolos and stone armor were used on breadwater trunks and subjected to nonbreaking waves in a d/L range of 0.10 to 0.25 and breaking waves in a d/L range of 0.04 to 0.14, the direction of wave approach was 90 deg, and the structures were initially designed for no overtopping, it was concluded that: Structures built to a 1V:1.5H slope generally tended to experience higher damage levels than those constructed on a 1V:2H slope, and transmitted wave heights observed one-half and one wavelength behind the breakwaters were very similar.
DE: rubblemound-breakwaters; design-; wave-forces; wave-height; performance-assessment; construction-materials; stability-
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1588820

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                      5 of 508
TI: Coastal erosion along Monterey Bay.
AU: McGee,-T.
CA: Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA (USA)
SO: 1986. 90 pp
NT: Master's thesis. NTIS Order No.: AD-A175 937/2/GAR.
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); O (Review-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Coastal erosion, as inferred by measuring bluff recession is correlated with wave height at 12 sites along the Monterey Bay coastline. Bluff recession rates are established by applying precise photogrammetric techniques to a 44-year time series of aerial photographs. Wave heights are determined from the USACE Wave Information Studies spectral wave climatology, where deep water gravity waves are hindcast from historic wind fields at three-hour intervals from Jan 56-Dec 75. The deep water spectra are refracted to shallow water spectra at a nominal depth of 4M. An erosion model is developed for Monterey Bay where the erosion process is modelled as a non-linear function of the 4-m significant wave height: R = (AHs sq) + BHs + C(Tide + 1.02 Hs - Clifftoe)/Beach Slope. The coefficients A, B, C are computed from a least squares regression of the modelled and observed recession rate values. The erosion model provides a reasonable representation of the erosion process in Monterey Bay, where the mean standard error between observed and modelled erosion rates is + or -0.17 m/yr. Adjustment of the wave energy coefficient, A, allows tuning of the model for high and low wave energy locations.
DE: coastal-erosion; wave-height; correlation-; models-; INE,-USA,-California,-Monterey-Bay
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 1587262

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                      6 of 508
TI: Accidents and safety in inshore and inland diving.
AU: Weick,-J.
AF: van Vreins Diving BV, Netherlands
CO: International Symposium on Safety and Health in Diving Operations, Luxembourg (Luxembourg), 7-8 May 1985
SO: SAFETY-OF-DIVING-OPERATIONS. Walker,-P.A.-ed. 1986. pp. 78-81
IS: ISBN 0-86010-509-1
PY: 1986
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: Duikbedrijf Vriens has over 25 years of experience in inshore diving and has developed over this period into a highly advanced diving company whose worldwide operations include almost all types of inshore and offshore diving work. The company has itself had to develop stringent standards which cover, within a detailed and organized framework, all factors influencing diving operations. Inshore diving is a very varied field covering all possible kinds of diving operations in depths up to 50 metres. Although wave heights are lower than in offshore operations, diving is complicated by a number of additional factors, extremely fast currents, reaching 3 meters per second, the general absence of any underwater visibility and the use of a large number of small, independently-operating diving teams.
DE: diving-; inland-water-environment; coastal-zone; diving-hazards; diving-accidents; diving-regulations; coastal-zones; inland-water; hazards-; accidents-
CL: Man-in-the-sea-and-Diving:-General--2341
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1586229

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                      7 of 508
TI: Limitation of random waves by depth.
OT: Limitation des houles aleatoires par la profondeur
AU: Rouch,-F.; Canel,-M.
AF: Sogreah, 38000 Grenoble, France
CO: 129. Session du Comite Technique de la Societe Hydrotechnique de France, Paris (France), 12 Jun 1986
SO: SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDROTECHNICS.-TODAY'-S-RESEARCH-AND-CONJECTURES-FOR-THE-FUTURE-OF-MARITIME-HYDRAULICS..  COLLOQUE-D'-HYDROTECHNIQUE.-ACTUALITE-ET-AVENIR-DE-L'-HYDRAULIQUE-MARITIME.- Societe-Hydrotechnique,-Paris-France.-Com.-Technique1986. no. 4-5 pp. 359-362
IS: ISSN 0018-6368
ST: HOUILLE-BLANCHE. no. 4-5
PY: 1986
LA: French
LS: German; English; Spanish; French
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: After breaking, the histogram of wave heights no longer follows Rayleigh's distribution. The communication is based on two models, one concerning a large breakwater which reflects waves, and the other a water intake at sea presenting an obstacle of restricted dimensions in relation to the sheet of water where the waves propagate. After having described the installations used for studies, the methods of generation, measurement and analysis of waves, the results obtained are given as regards the limitation of significant wave height, the modification of histogram of wave heights through breaking, as well as the recommendations concerning the predimensioning and studies of works.
DE: scale-models; breakwaters-; wave-height; swell-; wave-amplitude; random-processes; design-; offshore-structures; water-depth; mathematical-models; wave-reflection; wave-breaking
ID: water-intakes
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-General-2321; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1563823

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                      8 of 508
TI: Probabilistic approach of extreme stresses on structures sensitive to wave periods.
OT: Approche probabiliste des efforts extremes sur une structure sensible a la periode des vagues
AU: Lebas,-G.
AF: Elf-Aquitaine, 64000 Pau, France
CO: 129. Session du Comite Technique de la Societe Hydrotechnique de France, Paris (France), 12 Jun 1986
SO: SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDROTECHNICS.-TODAY'-S-RESEARCH-AND-CONJECTURES-FOR-THE-FUTURE-OF-MARITIME-HYDRAULICS..  COLLOQUE-D'-HYDROTECHNIQUE.-ACTUALITE-ET-AVENIR-DE-L'-HYDRAULIQUE-MARITIME.- Societe-Hydrotechnique,-Paris-France.-Com.-Technique1986. no. 4-5 pp. 319-324
IS: ISSN 0018-6368
ST: HOUILLE-BLANCHE. no. 4-5
PY: 1986
LA: French
LS: German; English; Spanish; French
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The probabilistic calculation of extreme stresses is described whilst taking into account the uncertainty concerning the transfer functions (which allow for the stress corresponding to a high wave and data periods), and the joint distributions of heights and periods of wave disturbances on the installation site. Overall, a structure must bear a moment of change and a horizontal force. A study of the stresses generated by the centennial height-period pairings has shown that force and moment were not entirely correlated and that there was therefore no need to apply simultaneously, at the time of calculation, their extreme values.
DE: offshore-structures; stress-; wave-period; probability-theory; joints-; wave-forces; wave-height; extreme-values
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-General-2321
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1563730

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                      9 of 508
TI: Extreme wave heights along the Norwegian coast.
OT: Nuowei yanhai de sheji bogao
AU: Zhu,-M.-X.
AF: Nanjing Coll. Navig. Eng., Nanjing, People's Rep. China
SO: THE-OCEAN-ENG.-HAIYANG-GONGCHENG. 1987. vol. 5, no. 1, pp. 77-87
PY: 1987
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Three current methods for calculating design wave height are illustrated. The parameters  tau  sub(HS) and N related to formula H = H sub(s) square root (1/2.1nN) were analysed and their resonable values suggested. Using the hindcast wave data, the omni-directional and directional extreme wave height statistics were compiled. The directional extreme wave height statistics must be taken instead of the traditional omni-directional extreme wave height statistics when the data are sufficient to do so. The design wave height will thus be more resonable and more safe. The worst wave direction and the corresponding design wave height along the Norwegian coast were calculated.
DE: design-wave; extreme-waves; wave-height; wave-predicting; ANE,-Norway
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 1540790

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     10 of 508
TI: Preliminary study of forecasting method of wind waves in the Jiaozhou Bay.
OT: Jiaozhouwan fenglang yubao fangfa de tantao
AU: Feng,-J.-Z.
AF: First Inst. Oceanogr., SOA, Qingdao, People's Rep. China
SO: J.-OCEANOGR.-HUANGHAI-BOHAI-SEAS-HUANGBOHAI-HAIYANG. 1986. vol. 4, no. 2, pp. 15-21
PY: 1986
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: With the aid of the relations between the momentum flux (or energy) and the equivalent shearing stress and between the wave energy and zero order moment of original point for the wave spectrum, the fundamental equation for the zero order moment of original point with wind velocity and fetch was established. By means of the data measured by No. 949 buoy in Jiaozhou Bay, China, the coefficient was determined. The appropriate distribution function of wave height was chosen in order to calculate varied characteristic wave heights from the zero order moment of original point. For forecast of period, the coefficient of the model established by Toba was determined by means of the data measured by No. 949 buoy. The forecasting formula given wave height and period were verified using station data and comparing with other formulae which are widely used and representative. The results showed that the formula proposed in this study is the best.
DE: wind-waves; wave-forecasting; wave-height; wave-period; INW,-China,-People'-s-Rep.,-Jiaozhou-Bay
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 1498262

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     11 of 508
TI: Application of mathematical forecasting models for oil during Archimedes 1.
CA: Belgian Minist. of Public Health, Brussels (Belgium). MUMM
SO: THE-ARCHIMEDES-1-EXPERIMENT. Gillot,-R.A.;Toselli,-F.-eds. 1985. pp. 155-159
IS: ISBN 92-825-5699-9
ST: ENVIRON.-QUAL.-LIFE-SER.
PY: 1985
LA: English
PT: B (Book)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The exercise organized by the Joint Research Center of Ispra was a unique opportunity to use a forecasting model in real time: this part was taken by MW-SLICK of the MUMM of the Belgian Ministry of the Public Health. During the two days of the exercise, MU-SLICK worked in real time. Two kinds of forecasts were performed depending on the local meteorological data used: short term simulation (theoretically every 4 hours, using observed wind speed and wave height at the spill site, with the assumption that they remain constant during 4 hours); and long term simulation (theoretically every 12 hours, using forecasted wind speeds and wave heights). The currents were computed by MU-STORM in real time but only the forcasted winds were used to assess the wind forcing on the water.
DE: pollution-dispersion; marine-pollution; mathematical-models; prediction-; simulation-; forecasting-; MU-SLICK; oil-spills
ID: Archimedes-1
CL: Pollution:-Methods-and-instruments-2442; Pollution:-Methods-and-instruments-1502
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 1497712

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     12 of 508
TI: Maximum wave force on a compound cylinder.
AU: Abdul-Khader,-M.H.; Rai,-S.P.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Natl. Univ. Singapore, Singapore
CO: 1. Australasian Port, Harbour and Offshore Engineering Conference 1986, Sydney, N.S.W. (Australia), 29 Sep-2 Oct 1986
SO: 1.-AUSTRALASIAN-PORT,-HARBOUR-AND-OFFSHORE-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE. Institution-of-Engineers,-Barton,-A.C.T.-Australia.-Coll.-Civ.-Eng 1986. pp. 196-200
IS: ISBN 0-85825-311-9
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Analytical evaluation of wave forces on compound cylinders have been carried out by the linear diffraction theory and the finite element method by a few investigators but relatively few experimental data are available to verify them. In the present study in-line wave force on a compound cylinder has been measured by a sophisticated single component force balance in a 2 m x 1 m x 35 m long wave flume. Only circular cylinders were used with the various combinations of diameters and heights ratios of the top and base cylinders, at various wave conditions. The range of diffraction parameters used was 0.1 to 2.5. The experimental results generally agree with the trend predicted by the analytical equations, however, the measured peak forces were found to be significantly lower than the theoretical predictions. A semi-empirical equation is also obtained to predict the maximum wave force on signle as well as compound cylinders.
DE: offshore-structures; wave-forces; cylinders-; piles-; mathematical-models
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1486451

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     13 of 508
TI: A microcomputer code for tsunami generation and propagation.
AU: Koutitas,-C.G.; Gousidou-Koutita,-M.; Papazachos,-V.
AF: Dep. Coast. Eng., Demokritos Univ. Thrace, Xanthi, Greece
SO: APPL.-OCEAN-RES. 1986. vol. 8, no. 3, pp. 156-163
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A linear long wave mathematical model is formulated and processed to a compact one equation form, for the description of the generation and propogation of seismic origin water waves. The predictive ability and specific properties of the model are tested by means of a number of numerical experiments and comparison to existing analytical or numerical solutions. Two applications are finally presented for Greek coastal areas: tsunami generation in the bays of Patra and Corinthos and reproduction of a recent (1956) tsunami in South Aegean Sea (the second application leads to comparison of computed and observed wave heights).
DE: tsunamis-; wave-propagation; wave-generation; computers-; mathematical-models; hydrodynamic-equations; MED,-Aegean
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Tides,-surges-and-sea-level-2167
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 1486282

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     14 of 508
TI: Calculation of wave elevations in ship wakes by using the swim free-surface (SWIMFS) code.
AU: Telste,-J.G.
CA: David W. Taylor Naval Ship Res. and Dev. Cent., Bethesda, MD (USA)
SO: REP.-DAVID-W.-TAYLOR-NAV.-SHIP-RES.-DEV.-CENT. BETHESDA,-MD-USA-DTNSRDC 1986. 36 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A169 753/1/GAR.
RN: DTNSRDC-86/030 (DTNSRDC86030)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: SWIMFS, a linearized free-surface potential flow program, has been developed and used to compute and analyze the near- and far-field wave elevations in the wakes of ships moving in calm water. Wake contours and three-dimensional perspective plots are presented for two ships using computer graphics. The contour plots of the near-field results have been compared with those obtained by the XYZFS computer program. Additional comparisons of the two codes have been made by plotting longitudinal cuts of the wave heights. The results show that--in spite of numerical noise in the computations of SWIMFS--the computed wave patterns behind ships are qualitatively correct, and the computed bow-wave elevations are comparable with those calculated using XYZFS.
DE: wave-height; wakes-; simulation-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1457847

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     15 of 508
TI: Wave stability tests of dolos and stone rehabilitation designs for the east breakwater, Cleveland Harbor, Ohio.
AU: Markle,-D.G.; Dubose,-W.G.
CA: Army Coastal Engineering Res. Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: TECH.-REP.-U.S.-ARMY-COAST.-ENG.-RES.-CENT. VICKSBURG,-MS-USA-ACERC 1985. 69 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A165 836/8/GAR.
RN: CERC-TR-85-10 (CERCTR8510)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: An experimental model investigation was conducted using a two-dimensional stability model at an undisturbed linear scale of 1:28.5 (model to prototype). The purposes of the stability tests were as follows: (1) Evaluate the stability of the proposed 4-ton dolos trunk section (Plan 1) when exposed to design wave and still-water level (swl) conditions; (2) Determine the degree of breakwater damage that could occur in Plan 1 for a storm condition that exceeds the design condition; (3) Determine the maximum nonbreaking wave heights for which the existing 2-ton dolos design (Plan 2) and the proposed 4-ton dolos and 9- to 20-ton armor stone design (Plan 3) could be considered to be adequately designed. Test results indicated that Plan 1 was only marginally acceptable and would most likely require significant amounts of maintenance if exposed to design level wave conditions (7.0- to 9.0- sec, 13.4-ft nonbreaking waves at an swl of +4.9 ft low water datum (lwd)).
DE: wave-forces; breakwaters-; coastal-engineering; stability-; design-; USA,-Ohio,-Cleveland,-Erie-L.
ID: construction-
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1423020

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     16 of 508
TI: Practical oceanographic research and applications involving directional wave spectra in offshore developments.
AU: Ward,-E.G.
AF: Shell Development Co., Bellaire Res. Cent., Houston, TX 77025, USA
CO: Oceans '86 "Science-Engineering-Adventure", Washington, DC (USA), 23-25 Sep 1986
SO: OCEANS-'-86-CONFERENCE-RECORD:-SCIENCE-ENGINEERING-ADVENTURE.-VOL.-5.-OCEANOGRAPHY-AND-VEHICLES. Marine-Technology-Soc.,-Washington,-DC-USA;-IEEE,-New-York,-NY-USA 1986. pp. 1468-1472
ST: OCEANS-'-86.
RN: IEEE-86CH2363-0 (IEEE86CH23630)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: There have been a number of advances in oceanography and ocean engineering over the last two decades which have found practical applications in the development of offshore hydrocarbons. This paper will review several such advances involving the development and application of directional wave spectral concepts to more accurately predict storm wave heights and platform loads.
DE: physical-oceanography; directional-spectra; storms-; wave-hindcasting; wave-forces
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1419073

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     17 of 508
TI: Sediment movement around a coral cay, Great Barrier Reef, Australia.
AU: Hopley,-D.
AF: Dep. Geogr., James Cook Univ. North Queensland, Townsville, Qld. 4811, Australia
SO: PAC.-GEOL. 1981. vol. 15, pp. 17-36
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Research of Redbill Reef, Great Barrier Reef, Australia has established certain patterns of sediment movement in the vicinity of a small vegetated sand cay. Considerable movements of sand around the cay and between the cay and the reef flat were recorded. Variations in wind speeds and directions and associated wave heights were the most important factors in explaining the daily patterns. Results suggest that the sediments of the cay and surrounding reef flat are in equilibrium with the most commonly occurring south-easterly wind and wave regime, with daily variation from those standard conditions causing a continual adjustment of the sediment mass.
DE: sediment-transport; cays-; coral-reefs; ISEW,-Great-Barrier-Reef,-Redbill-Reef
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 1398314

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     18 of 508
TI: Forecasters handbook for the southern African continent and Atlantic/Indian Ocean transit.
AU: Williams,-F.R.; Renard,-R.J.; Jung,-G.H.; Tomkins,-R.D.; Picard,-R.R.
CA: Naval Environmental Prediction Research Facility, Monterey, CA (USA)
SO: 1984. 320 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A163 196/9/GAR.
RN: NEPRF-TR-84-08 (NEPRFTR8408)
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This handbook describes the analysis and forecasting of atmospheric and oceanic conditions important to air/sea operations over and near the southern African continent, to include Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique, South Africa, and Namibia. Weather over the Malagasy Republic (formerly Madagascar), Mauritius and Reunion (the Mascarene Islands) and Seychelles Islands is also addressed. Included are descriptions of such coastal phenomena as fog, gale frequency, and onshore/offshore winds, as well as an in depth review of the Agulhas and Benguela nearshore oceanic currents. Southern Hemisphere climatological data also are given for seasonal tracks of cyclones and anticyclones, atmospheric frontal positions, wave heights, sea surface temperatures, and other parameters.
DE: weather-forecasting; climatic-data; oceanographic-data; military-oceanography; Africa-; ISW-
CL: Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-General-2241; The-Physical-Environment:-General-1141
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
AN: 1398266

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     19 of 508
TI: Directional wave measurements during the Hr. Ms. Tydeman  sea trial.
AU: Bachman,-R.J.; Foley,-E.W.
CA: David W. Taylor Naval Ship Research and Development Cent., Bethesda, MD (USA)
SO: REP.-DAVID-W.-TAYLOR-NAV.-SHIP-RES.-DEV.-CENT. BETHESDA,-MD-USA-DWTNSRDC 1986. 44 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A166 399/6/GAR.
RN: DTNSRDC/SPD-1179-01 (DTNSRDCSPD117901)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Sea tests were conducted in May 1982 aboard the Dutch oceanographic research ship Hr. Ms. Tydeman  to compare the performance of three wave buoys. These were a disposable buoy designed and built by the Delft Univ. of Technology, a WAVEC buoy under development by the Datawell Corp., and an ENDECO Corp. Wave-Track buoy owned by the David W. Taylor NSRDC. The disposable buoy provided energy spectra, while the other two buoys provided energy spectra and wave directionalities. Time histories of the significant wave heights and modal wave periods of the WAVEC and the Wave-Track buoys generally agree throughout the experiment. Energy spectra, mean wave directions, and spreading angles are also presented for most of the runs measured by the WAVEC and the Wave-Track buoys.
DE: wave-buoys; performance-assessment; wave-spectra; wave-direction-sensors
ID: 3-wave-buoy-models
CL: Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Buoys-and-buoy-systems-2303
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1371995

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     20 of 508
TI: Oceanographic and meteorological conditions during a ship mooring force study.
AU: Mason,-C.; Grogg,-W.E.; Bichner,-E.W.
CA: Army Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: MISC.-PAP.-U.S.-ARMY-COAST.-ENG.-RES.-CENT. VICKSBURG,-MS-USA-U.S.-ARMY,-CERC 1985. 38 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A160 194/7/GAR.
RN: CERC-MP-85-6 (CERCMP856)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The objects of this experiment were to determine mooring loads on cables mooring a ship in the open and to collect data on the environmental forces (waves, currents, and wind) producing these loads. Waves and current data collected about 3 km from shore at Duck, North Carolina, are summarized. Six hourly wave heights, periods, and spectra; 15-min average values of current speed and direction; and wind speed and direction are presented for the period between 1900 hours 14 November 1983 and 1430 hours 17 November 1983. The response of the coastal wave and current fields to passage of a local wind system is illustrated.
DE: loads-forces; ship-mooring-systems; wave-forces; current-forces; ANW,-USA,-North-Carolina,-Duck
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 1360105

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     21 of 508
TI: Steady deep-water waves on a linear shear current.
AU: Simmen,-J.A.; Saffman,-P.G.
CA: California Inst. of Technology, Pasadena (USA). Dep. of Applied Mathematics
SO: 1985. 24 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A160 123/6/GAR; Contract N00014-79-C-0412.
RN: PGS-131 (PGS131)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This study concerns one-dimensional, periodic, symmetric water waves of permanent form, propagation on an otherwise vertically varying uniform shear current. It is restricted to the case of deep water in a constant gravitational field, where both the surface tension of the water and the density of the upper fluid (air) are neglected. The theory is inviscid, and so the shear is assumed to have been produced by external effects. Numerical solutions for all wave-heights, up to and including the limited ones, are computed from a formulation which involves only the wave profile and some constants of the motion. It is found that for some shear currents the highest waves are not necessarily those waves with sharp crests known as extreme waves. Furthermore a certain nonuniqueness in the sense of a fold is shown to exist, and a new type of limiting wave is discovered. For both small-amplitude waves and extreme waves the numerical results are compared with theoretical predictions.
DE: water-waves; mathematical-models; shear-; wave-height; extreme-waves; boundary-layers
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1359982

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     22 of 508
TI: Three-dimensional stability and bifurcation of steady water waves.
AU: Saffman,-P.G.
CA: California Inst. of Technology, Pasadena (USA). Dep. of Applied Mathematics
SO: 1985. 14 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A159 999/2/GAR. Publ. in THEOR. APPL. MECH., p.355-367 1985.
RN: PGS-130 (PGS130)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper considers the stability of finite amplitude two-dimensional waves of permanent form on deep water to arbitrary three-dimensional disturbances. The possibility of instability is related to the existence of resonances between linear waves. The regions of instability are calculated. It is shown that spontaneous three-dimensional waves of permanent form can arise, from bifurcation of two-dimensional waves at wave heights and wave lengths for which stationary disturbances exist, and their properties are determined.
DE: wave-dynamics; wave-height; wavelength-; mathematical-models; water-wave-motion; finite-amplitude-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1358359

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     23 of 508
TI: Ferry wake study.
AU: Nece,-R.E.; McCaslin,-M.R.; Christensen,-D.R.
CA: Washington State Transportation Cent., Seattle, WA (USA)
SO: 1985. 90 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: PB86-189347/GAR.
RN: WA-RD-70.1 (WARD701)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish)
AB: Wave heights were measured for three classes of vessels operated by the Washington State Ferries system on Puget Sound, Washington. Variation of wave height with distance from the sailing line was determined for each vessel class over a range of speeds. Instrumentation and testing procedures used are described. Various wave measuring technologies are discussed, and it is concluded that the spar-buoy wave-staffs used were most appropriate for the measurements sought.
DE: wakes-; wave-height; wave-measurement; container-ships; INE,-Puget-Sound
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 1358288

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     24 of 508
TI: Investigation of effects of navigation traffic activities on hydrologic, hydraulic, and geomorphic characteristics in the Upper Mississippi River system.
AU: Chen,-Y.H.; Simons,-D.B.; Li,-R.M.; Ellis,-S.S.
AF: Simons, Li and Assoc., Inc., P.O. Box 1816, Fort Collins, CO 80522, USA
CO: 15. Annual Meeting of the Mississippi River Research Consortium, La Crosse, WI (USA), 14-15 Apr 1982
SO: CONTAMINANTS-IN-THE-UPPER-MISSISSIPPI-RIVER:-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-15TH-ANNUAL-MEETING-OF-THE-MISSISSIPPI-RIVER-RESEARCH-CONSORTIUM. Wiener,-J.G.;Andreson,-R.V.;McConville,-D.R.-eds. 1984. pp. 299-324
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: A mathematical model is developed to detemine the effects of navigation traffic activities on the physical environment of a navigable channel. Factors considered in the wave model included boat-generated wave heights and velocity changes, bed material resuspension and suspended sediment concentrations, turbidity, and sediment volumes entering side channels and backwater areas.
DE: inland-waters; transportation-; navigation-; hydrology-; geomorphology-; inland-water; USA,-Upper-Mississippi-R.
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Topography-and-morphology-2263
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1342485

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     25 of 508
TI: A comparison of SIR-B directional ocean wave spectra with aircraft scanning radar spectra.
AU: Beal,-R.C.; Monaldo,-F.M.; Tilley,-D.G.; Irvine,-D.E.; Walsh,-E.J.; Jackson,-F.C.; Hancock,-D.W.,III; Hines,-D.E.; Swift,-R.N.; et-al.
AF: Johns Hopkins Univ. Appl. Phys. Lab., Laurel, MD 20707, USA
SO: SCIENCE-WASH.. 1985. vol. 232, no. 4757, pp. 1531-1535
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Directional ocean wave spectra derived from Shuttle Imaging Radar-B (SIR-B) L-band imagery collected off the coast of southern Chile on 11 and 12 October 1984 were compared with independent spectral estimates from two airborne scanning radars. In sea states with significant wave heights ranging from 3 to 5 meters, the SIR-B-derived spectra at 18 degree  and 25 degree  off nadir yielded reasonable estimates of wavelengths, directions, and spectral shapes for all wave systems encountered, including a purely azimuth-traveling system. A SIR-B image intensity variance spectrum containing predominantly range-traveling waves closely resembles an independent aircraft estimate of the slope variance spectrum.
DE: wave-spectra; satellite-sensing; airborne-sensing; directional-spectra; comparative-studies; PSW,-Chile
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Westward (PSW)
AN: 1335142

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     26 of 508
TI: Experimental study on diffusion phenomena by the drainboard type floating breakwater.
AU: Tsuzuku,-T.; Ukita,-M.
AF: Mar. Res. and Technol. Dep., Japan Mar. Sci. Technol. Cent., Yokosuka, Japan
SO: TECH.-REP.-JAPAN-MAR.-SCI.-TECHNOL.-CENT. 1986. no. 16, pp. 77-86
PY: 1986
LA: Japanese
LS: English; Japanese
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Diffusion phenomena accelerated by a floating breakwater containing drainboard like structures, comprised of halfround gutters and other features, were studied in a wave basin. The diffusion areas of the dissolved dye utilized were measured based on the photos taken of 0.5-second intervals. The wave transmission coefficients for regular waves were obtained based on the wave heights on both sides of the model. Not only did the diffusion by mixing water become very comspicuous by the existence of a floating body, but also the centers of the diffusion areas move either in the shore direction or downward according to the basic form.
DE: floating-barriers; breakwaters-; diffusion-; water-mixing; wave-dissipation
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1334991

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     27 of 508
TI: Wave groupiness in long-traveled swell.
AU: Thomas,-K.V.; Baba,-M.; Harish,-C.M.
AF: Cent. Earth Sci. Stud., Reg. Cent., Cochin 682 018, India
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG.-AM.-SOC.-CIV.-ENG. 1986. vol. 112, no. 4, pp. 498-511
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Grouping of high waves in a long-traveled swell recorded at a shallow water location is examined. The swell, with most of the energy concentrated within a narrow band of frequencies (0.040-0.075 Hz), is assumed to have originated in the soothern Indian Ocean. The longest run of high waves identified contained 6 waves for H > H sub(s) and 16 waves for H > H@)u-. The observed probabilities of runlengths are in agreement with the theory of Kimura. Very high correlation between successive wave heights (up to 0.79) and significant correlation up to 5 waves apart, which is higher than all earlier reports, are observed. It is found that the correlation coefficient between successive wave heights  tau  sub(HH) (1) is a better parameter to define the length of runs of wave heights than the spectral peakedness parameter, Q sub(p). The high values of runlengths observed raise doubts regarding the concept of a decrease of runlengths in shallow water, which has lately been confirmed by Thompson and Seelig.
DE: wave-groups; swell-; shallow-water
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1334753

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     28 of 508
TI: In-line forces on vertical cylinders in deepwater waves.
AU: Dawson,-T.H.
AF: Dep. Nav. Syst. Eng., U.S. Nav. Acad., Annapolis, MD 21402, USA
SO: J.-ENERGY-RESOUR.-TECHNOL. 1985. vol. 107, no. 1, pp. 18-23
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Laboratory measurements of the total in-line forces on a fixed vertical 2-in-dia cylinder in deep-water regular and random waves are given and compared with predictions from the Morison equation. Results show, for regular waves with heights ranging from 2 to 22 in, and frequencies ranging from 0.4 to 0.9 Hz that the Morison equation, with Stokes wave theory and constant drag and inertia coefficients of 1.2 and 1.8, respectively, provides good agreement with the measured maximum wave forces. The force variation over the entire wave cycle is also well represented. The linearized Morison equation, with linear wave theory and the same coefficients likewise provides close agreement with the measured rms wave forces for irregular random waves having approximate Bretschneider spectra and significant wave heights from 5 to 14 in.
DE: deep-water-waves; cylinders-; loads-forces; wave-forces
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1334740

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     29 of 508
TI: Design wave criteria for offshore structures.
AU: Liu,-T.-F.; Wang,-C.
AF: Tianijin Univ., People's Rep. China
CO: 5. International Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering (OMAE) Symposium, Tokyo (Japan), 13-18 Apr 1986
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIFTH-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-MECHANICS-AND-ARCTIC-ENGINEERING-OMAE-SYMPOSIUM.-VOLUME-1. Chung,-J.S.;Chakrabarti,-S.K.;Maeda,-H.;Jefferys,-R.E.-eds. 1986. pp. 404-409
RN: ASME 100194 (100194)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The authors present the development of formulations for prediction of design extreme wave height and their corresponding wave period by means of statistical method based upon the observed data along the Chinese coast and Atlantic coast. They are applied for various conditions: daily, weekly, monthly, yearly maximum and maximum height for typhoon or hurricane process. And also applied for all observed wave height H 1/3 or H 1/10. Moreover a new type of joint probability distribution function of extreme wave height and corresponding wave period is developed. In these formulae instead of frequently used return period risk probability during a lifetime of structures and certain joint cumulative probability of extreme wave heights and corresponding wave periods are appropriated as design criteria.
DE: wave-height; wave-period; offshore-engineering; design-wave; A,-Atlantic; ISEW,-China,-People'-s-Rep.
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 1251043

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     30 of 508
TI: Wave climate synthesis: Some recent advances.
AU: Hogben,-N.; Dacunha,-N.M.
AF: Address not stated
CO: 17. Annual Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, TX (USA), 6-9 May 1985
SO: SEVENTEENTH-ANNUAL-OFFSHORE-TECHNOLOGY-CONFERENCE.-1985-PROCEEDINGS. 1985. vol. 2, pp. 355-364
ST: PROC.-OFFSHORE-TECHNOL.-CONF.
RN: OTC 4938 (4938)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper reports some recent advances relating to the development, validation and use of methods for deriving wave climate data of enhanced reliability from the global archives of visual wave and wind observations held by meteorological agencies. These methods here referred to as wave climate synthesis are based on parametric modelling of the joint probabilities of wave heights, periods and wind speeds and are incorporated in a program called NMIMET. Aspects of interest to the offshore industry are emphasised including the validation of a newly developed capability for deriving estimates of persistence statistics from wave height exceedance probabilities. Brief reference is also made in the concluding remarks to the use of the program for compiling a Global Atlas of Wave Data.
DE: wave-data; wind-data; data-collections; data-processing; ocean-atmosphere-system
ID: wave-climate
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1250453

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     31 of 508
TI: Variations of the average wave level in the tidal zone in the presence of irregular wave conditions.
AU: Leont'-yev,-I.O.
AF: Shirshov Inst. Oceanol., USSR Acad. Sci., Moscow, USSR
SO: OCEANOL.-ACAD.-SCI.-USSR. 1984. vol. 24, no. 6, pp. 672-674
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method is suggested for calculating the average level in a tidal zone in the presence of irregular waves, breaking above a monotonically rising slope and also above a contour with an underwater arch. The calculation is based on using the momentum balance equation in the shore zone, obtained by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, and the model for transformation of irregular wave heights developed by the author. It is shown that the method provides satisfactory agreement with the data of laboratory experiments, and only one initital parameter of the waves--the depth at which breaking of the waves begins--needs to be known in order to implement this method.
DE: coastal-zone; wave-breaking; wave-amplitude; bottom-topography-effects; slopes-topography; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1199412

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     32 of 508
TI: Overload bore propagation due to an overtopping wave.
AU: Cox,-J.C.; Machemehl,-J.
AF: ARCTEC, Inc., Columbia, MD, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1986. vol. 112, no. 1, pp. 161-163
PY: 1986
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Traditional theories explaining wave run-up and overtopping of a slope have been formulated in an attempt to define safe or acceptable design heights for coastal structures. However, to date no theory has been formulated to predict what happens to the overtopping wave once it has cleared the berm crest. This information is necessary in order to define a safe setback or ground clearance for buildings which might be located on a gravel island deck. The existing theories only provide the discharge onto the island at the point of overtopping. The authors formulation is a simplified first approximation of the character of the bore of water propagating from an overtopping wave.
DE: water-mass-intrusions; overtopping-; breaking-waves; berms-; backshore-
ID: overwash-; overload-bore-propagation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1199351

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     33 of 508
TI: Wave and surf forecast model evaluation for use on a micro computer.
AU: Devendorf,-L.E.
CA: Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA (USA)
SO: 1985. 67 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A159 063/7/GAR; Master's thesis.
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A sea swell and surf model is implemented in BASIC, tested and evaluated on a micro computer (HP-9845B). The two-dimensional model includes spectral wind-wave generation in open water, and shallow water wave transformation over irregular topography. The model predicts surf zone width, breaker lines and types of breakers. Using change in momentum flux of gravity waves (radiation stress) as forcing, the model predicts current velocities within the surf zone. The model is evaluated for the conditions over constant depths and uniform sloping beaches. The numerical results are checked against accepted theory and field observations. The model results compare well with observed nearshore wave heights but give poor location of breaking waves.
DE: wave-height; wave-data; computer-programs; models-; gravity-waves; wave-forecasting
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1199328

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     34 of 508
TI: Programs and products of the Naval Oceanographic Office.
AU: Wells,-D.K.; Wargelin,-R.M.
AF: Nav. Oceanogr. Off., NSTL Stn., MS, USA
SO: MAR.-TECHNOL.-SOC.-J. 1985. vol. 19, no. 3, pp. 18-25
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The Naval Oceanographic Office in Bay St. Louis, Mississippi, conducts multidisciplinary ocean surveys to gather data on the physical characteristics of the ocean floor, acoustic properties of sea water, location of ocean fronts, wave mechanisms, tidal heights and currents. The data are computerized whenever possible  for direct input to a variety of environmental and tactical models. Minicomputers, microcomputers, and calculators employed in present naval applications are equipped with a suite of programs that use on-scene ocean tempetature and ambient noise measurements to produce sound speed profiles, sound propagation-loss curves, and sound ray traces.
DE: oceanographic-institutions; military-oceanography; USA-
ID: Naval-Oceanographic-Office
CL: General-Aspects:-Institutes-and-organizations-2102
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1171481

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     35 of 508
TI: Extreme waves estimated for Navarin Basin sites.
AU: Utt,-M.; Signorini,-S.; Rose,-F.
AF: Union Oil Co. of California, CA, USA
SO: OCEAN-IND. 1985. vol. 20, no. 10, pp. 57-64
PY: 1985
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Major operator sponsored study using archived U.S. Navy data identifies maximum wave heights for five locations in Alaska's Bering Sea. This article overviews study procedure, extrapolation and verification methods; and it summarizes significant wave heights, H sub(s) (ft), significant wave periods, T sub(z) (sec), and maximum wave heights, H sub(m) (ft), for several study area locations.
DE: wave-height; wave-period; wave-spectra; IN,-Bering-Sea,-Navarin-Basin
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1151304

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     36 of 508
TI: A computer model for forecasting ocean wave parameters at specific sites around the New Zealand coast.
AU: Laing,-A.K.
AF: New Zealand Meteorol. Serv., Minist. Transp., P.O. Box 722, Wellington 1, New Zealand
SO: N.Z.-J.-MAR.-FRESHWAT.-RES. 1985. vol. 19, no. 4, pp. 517-533
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An applications model for forecasting frequency-directional wave spectra at any appropriately specified site is described. There are two stages to the calculations. Firstly, a spectrum is calculated based on results at nearby gridpoints from an ocean wave prediction model. This is then adjusted to make the spectrum consistent with the local wind history. Verifications of the model are made at site off Cape Egmont and Great Barrier Island, North Island, New Zealand. These give encouraging results for the shape of the frequency spectrum, with reasonable skill evident in the energetic parts of the spectrum. The significant wave heights also agree well, with the model estimates explaining two thirds of the measured variance.
DE: wave-forecasting; mathematical-models; PSE,-New-Zealand
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Eastward (PSE)
AN: 1149169

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     37 of 508
TI: Wave height and period at Timaru, New Zealand.
AU: Hastie,-W.J.
AF: R.W. Morris and Assoc., Consulting Eng. Ltd., P.O. Box 4189, New Plymouth, New Zealand
SO: N.Z.-J.-MAR.-FRESHWAT.-RES. 1985. vol. 19, no. 4, pp. 507-515
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave data are presented for Timaru, New Zealand, based on instrumental records collected between October 1981 and October 1982. Significant wave height ranged from 0.32-0.33 m with a mean value of 0.97 m. Significant wave period ranged from 5-17 s with a mean value of 10 s. The maximum wave height recorded was 6.30 m. A marked variation was found between summer and winter conditions. Winter months displayed a much greater range of wave conditions, significant heights were generally higher and significant periods longer.
DE: wave-data; PSE,-New-Zealand,-Timaru
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Eastward (PSE)
AN: 1148917

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     38 of 508
TI: Drift of an articulated cylinder in regular waves.
AU: Drake,-K.R.; Taylor,-R.E.; Matsui,-T.
AF: Dep. Mech. Eng., University Coll. London, Torrington Pl., London WC1E 7JE, UK
SO: PROC.-R.-SOC.-LOND.-SER.-A. 1984. vol. 394, no. 1807, pp. 363-385
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Potential flow theory is used to investigate the wave induced harmonic response and the mean drift of an articulated column in regular waves. The mean drift horizontal force is evaluated by means of the Stokes expansion to second order in wave steepness. Analyses based on both near field and far field formulations are shown to give identical expressions, provided that the second-order forces at the intersection between column and seabed are included in the near field approach. The latter have not been considered in previous studies concerned with drift forces on floating bodies. It is shown that the drift forces on a column, although of second order, can excite patch responses of first order: this is because articulated columns are designed to have a low natural frequency in the tilt mode, relative to wave frequencies. Comparison of the theoretical results with experimental data, from a model tested in regular waves, suggests reasonable agreement for the drift forces over a range of frequencies and two wave heights.
DE: articulated-columns; drift-; wave-forces
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1124439

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     39 of 508
TI: Parameters of the air-sea interface by high-frequency ground-wave Doppler radar.
AU: Heron,-M.L.; Dexter,-P.E.; McGann,-B.T.
AF: Phys. Dep., James Cook Univ. North Queensland, Townsville, Qld. 4811, Australia
SO: AUST.-J.-MAR.-FRESHWAT.-RES. 1985. vol. 36, no. 5, pp. 655-670
IS: ISSN 0067-1940
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A 30-MHz ground-wave ocean surface radar has been deployed inside the Great Barrier Reef where the water is sheltered from ocean swell. The spatial resolution of the radar is 3 km radially and 3 multiplied by 5 degree  in azimuth. In each cell a 102 multiplied by 4-s time series is used to determine radial surface currents, wind directions, root-mean-square wave heights and wind speeds. Coincident observations of sea-wave spectra, surface currents and boundary-layer winds are used to evaluate the radar performance and to modify some of the methods of data analysis to suit these conditions. Surface current values are observed by the radar to an accuracy of  plus or minus  0 multiplied by 05 m s super(-1), wind directions to  plus or minus  10 degree , root-mean-square wave heights to 0 multiplied by 15 m and wind speeds to  plus or minus  3 m s super(-1). In some spectra, the peak in the second-order continuum caused by the non-directional seawave spectrum is not resolved from a second-order resonance line. This disallows the derivation of the period of the dominant sea wave on a routine basis.
DE: radar-imagery; remote-sensing; high-frequency; surface-properties; ISEW,-Great-Barrier-Reef
ID: Doppler-radar
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 1123835

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     40 of 508
TI: Atlantic Coast hindcast. Phase 2. Wave information: Additional extremal estimates.
AU: Corson,-W.D.; Tracy,-B.A.
CA: Army Coastal Eng. Res. Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: 1985. 39 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A156 137/2/GAR.
RN: WES-W15-15 (WESW1515)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Estimates of extreme wave heights for 73 open-ocean locations on the US East Coast are presented. The estimates include the median wave heights and interquartile ranges for 100-, 50-, 20-, 10-, and 5- year return periods. Only waves generated by extra-tropical storms are considered. Hurricane generated waves will be analyzed in future work.
DE: wave-height; wave-hindcasting; storm-surges; ocean-circulation; ANW,-USA; ASW,-USA
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW); Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 1104283

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     41 of 508
TI: Erosion control of scour during construction. Report 5. Experimental measurements of refraction and diffraction downcoast of an oblique breakwater.
AU: Hales,-L.Z.
CA: Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Stn., Vicksburg, MS (USA). Hydraulics Lab
SO: TECH.-REP.-U.S.-ARMY-ENG.-WATERWAYS-EXP.-STN. VICKSBURG,-MS-USA-USAEWES 1984. 134 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A149 743/7/GAR.
RN: WES/TR/HL-80-3-5 (WESTRHL8035)
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: A shore-connected, vertical, thin, impermeable barrier (break-water) was installed perpendicular to the shoreline to simulate prototype jetties and breakwaters commonly occurring along many coasts. The purpose of the present study is to extend the previous work of Hales (1980) by installing a shore-connected vertical, thin, impermeable breakwater at a 60-deg angle to shoreline to simulate a larger range of prototype jetties and breakwaters in a existence at the present time. Experimental measurements of refraction and diffraction downcoast of this oblique structure were made to obtain quantitative knowledge of this phenomenon in the lee of the jetty or shore-connected breakwater. These data were then compared with the uniformly valid asymptotic theory of Liu, Lozano, and Pantazaras (1979) for the same arrangement. A numerical model for determining wave heights downcoast of a straight breakwater at an angle to the shoreline under combined refraction and diffraction, based on the uniformly valid asymptotic theory, was compared with the experimental data.
DE: breakwaters-; erosion-; scour-; mathematical-models; hydrodynamics-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1084543

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     42 of 508
TI: Erosion control of scour during construction. Report 8. Summary report.
AU: Hales,-L.Z.
CA: Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Stn., Vicksburg, MS (USA). Hydraulics Lab
SO: VICKSBURG,-MS-USA-U.S.-ARMY-EWES 1985. 230 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A153 808/1/GAR; See also AD-A148 102.
RN: WES/TR/HL-80-3-8 (WESTRHL8038)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The objectives of this research were to develop techniques and knowledge for estimating resulting wave characteristics and wave-induced current fields in the vicinity of major coastal structures. Both analytical and laboratory experimental studies were conducted during the investigation. The analytical developments regarding wave heights and wave-induced currents were verified by the use of precise experimental studies of shore-connected breakwaters. Additional underlayer stability experimental studies were conducted for estimating the size of stone comprising the foundation bedding material which would remain stable under various wave conditions.
DE: erosion-; scour-; breakwaters-; coastal-engineering; wave-effects; construction-materials
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1084325

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     43 of 508
TI: Wave prediction in the Japan and East China seas using the DSA-5 model.
AU: Park,-Y.H.; Kim,-C.S.
AF: Dep. Mar. Resour., Cheju Natl. Univ., 590 Cheju, Korea
CO: 2. JECSS (Japan and East China Seas Study) Workshop, Tsukuba (Japan), 22 Apr 1983
SO: OCEAN-HYDRODYNAMICS-OF-THE-JAPAN-AND-EAST-CHINA-SEAS. Ichiye,-T.-ed. 1984. no. 39 pp. 409-418
IS: ISBN 0-444-42356-7
ST: ELSEVIER-OCEANOGR.-SER. ISBN-0-444-41623-4 no. 39
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The French wave prediction model DSA-5 is presented. The model uses the spectro-angular method to hindcast and forecast wave height, predominant wave direction, predominant wave period. Model tests in the Japan and East China Seas show close agreement between calculated and observed values although there is still a tendency for calculated values to overestimate observed ones especially in the case of weak wave heights. The most likely source of wave prediction errors seems to be strongly related to poor estimation of sea surface winds from weather charts.
DE: wind-wave-generation; ISEW,-East-China-Sea; INW,-Japan-Sea; predictions-; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW); Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 1068079

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     44 of 508
TI: Coastal erosion along Monterey Bay.
AU: Sklavidis,-A.I.; Lima-Blanco,-W.R.
CA: Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA (USA)
SO: 1985. 108 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A155 610/9/GAR. Master's thesis.
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Permanent beach erosion in Southern Monterey Bay, CA, is episodic, occurring infrequently when high tides coincide with stormy weather which allows wave action to erode the toe of the cliffs. This thesis uses precise aerial photogrammetric techniques to measure cliff recession from 1946 through 1984. Maximum erosion occurs in the vicinity of Fort Ord (7.3 ft.yr) and deceases to the south. A model is developed to predict cliff erosion based on the hypothesis that erosion occurs only when the water level due to combined tides, wave set-up and run-up exceeds the toe the cliff elevation. The model combines predicted tidal elevations and wave heights. Shallow water wave heights at various locations are calculated by transforming deepwater directional wave spectra provided by the Fleet Numerical Oceanography Center. Refraction of the wave energy is responsible for the variability of erosion rates along the shore. The bathymetry of Monterey Bay is such that the refracted wave energy is greater in the Fort Ord area than to the south.
DE: beach-erosion; wave-height; tidal-elevations; models-; INE,-USA,-California,-Monterey-Bay
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 1067352

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     45 of 508
TI: Wave energy distribution on Margarita Reef, southwestern Puerto Rico.
AU: Lugo-Fernandez,-A.
CA: Puerto Rico Univ., Mayaguez (Puerto Rico). Dep. of Marine Sciences
SO: 1982. 86 pp
NT: Thesis (M.S. Degree).
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave period and wave height were measured at depths of 20, 10, and 5 meters in front of Margarita Reef and at 3 and 5 meters behind (lee) the reef. The dominant wave periods are generated by the trade winds, with wave heights in the fore reef being reduced to an average of 20% over a distance of 0.4 km, by shoaling and refraction. Wave breaking reduces up to 80% of the wave height, transmitting nearly 20% into the back reef by overtopping. The reef can be divided into 3 energy zones related to wave heights: a high energy zone in deep water, an inter-mediate energy zone caused by shoaling and refraction, and the low energy zone at the backreef caused by wave breaking at the crest. Bottom friction appears to be negligible in the reef environment. A theoretical model for calculating the transmission coefficients was used to determine the efficiency of Margarita Reef as a breakwater.(Issued also as summary only in: Contrib. Dep. Mar. Sci. Univ. P. R., Vol. 20, 1982, published 1984).
DE: wave-energy; wave-period; wave-height; reefs-; breakwaters-; ASW,-Puerto-Rico,-Margarita-Reef
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 1046873

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     46 of 508
TI: On the long period components of the wave motion as deduced from continuous records taken in the Gulf of Genoa on Decmeber 17-18, 1982.
AU: Cicconi,-G.; Dagnino,-I.; Albert,-A.; Sciarrone,-V.
AF: Ist. Geofis., Univ. Genoa, Via Balbi 30/23, 16126 Genoa, Italy
SO: BOLL.-OCEANOL.-TEOR.-APPL. 1984. vol. 2, no. 3, pp. 249-263
NT: 8 ref.
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English; Italian
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The results of spectral analysis of wave records taken in the Gulf of Genoa on December 17-18, 1982 which show the presence of long period components, are given together with the results of an investigation into the composition and duration of urns of wave heights higher than H sub(rms) and the global probability of occurrence of wave groups higher than H sub(rms) and including n waves (n = 1,...,10). Results are in agreement with those given by other authors. An investigation concerning the time intervals between the beginning of a wave group higher than H sub(rms) and the beginning of the successive group, is also discussed, and results partially confirm those achieve by spectral analysis.
DE: wave-motion; spectral-analysis; MED,-Italy,-Genoa-Gulf
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 1046756

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     47 of 508
TI: Determination of wave height spectrum by means of a joint probability density function.
AU: Yamazaki,-H.; Herbich,-J.B.
AF: Ocean Eng. Program, Dep. Civ. Eng., Texas A&M Univ., College Station, TX, USA
CO: Practice of Physical Oceanography, College Station, TX (USA), Apr 1983
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1985. vol. 90, no. C2, pp. 3381-3390
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Most of the wave information systems are based on the spectral representation of the observed wave data. Spectral analysis describes the wave energy distribution as a function of frequency for a given wave data set. However, spectral analysis may not provide the joint statistical distribution of wave heights and periods. An alternative spectrum estimation by means of the joint probability density function of wave heights and periods is presented. The wave height joint probability spectra are defined as the second moment of wave height of joint probability in terms of the frequency domain. Good agreement between the joint probability density spectra and fast Fourier transform and autoregressive spectra was obtained.
DE: wave-height; spectral-analysis
ID: joint-probability-density-function
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1035937

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     48 of 508
TI: Wave heights in the surf zone.
AU: Mitchell,-H.L.
AF: Univ. Newcastle, N.S.W., Australia
SO: PHOTOGRAMM.-REC. 1983. vol. 11, no. 62, pp. 183-193
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The advantages and disadvantages of measuring ocean wave heights in the surf zone by using terrestrial photogrammetry are outlined. Difficulties arising from a lack of control points can be overcome by using the apparent horizon to provide camera orientations about two axes, provided that the apparent horizon is the sea surface and that an unconventional orientation of the camera axis system is adopted. Following practical tests and error simulation studies, height differences were determined for 12 points in the breaking wave zone off a Newcastle (New South Wales) beach.
DE: wave-height; surf-zone; beaches-; photogrammetry-; PSE,-Australia,-New-South-Wales,-Newcastle
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Eastward (PSE)
AN: 0990930

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     49 of 508
TI: New trends in ocean wave research in India.
AU: Baba,-M.
AF: Cent. for Earth Science Stud., Reg. Cent., Cochin, 18, India
SO: MAHASAGAR. 1985. vol. 18, no. 2, pp. 231-248
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The studies on waves in India have seen rapid strides during the last decade. A review of the latest developments in the interpretation of ship-based observations, in wave hindcasting and in the instrumental measurement of waves is given. The new approaches in the study of short-term distributions, seasonal or year-round wave climatology and the long-term distributions are given in detail. The necessity for the consideration of nonlinear effects in the short-term distribution of wave heights and periods is highlighted. The developments in the relatively new fields of ocean wave research (in India), like the wave spectra, numerical methods in wave hindcasting and transformation, tapping of wave energy, remote sensing techniques etc. are discussed. The limitations in ocean wave research in India and a few recommendations for future research are given.
DE: wave-energy; wave-spectra; wave-hindcasting; wave-data; wave-measurement; ocean-circulation; research-; India-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-General-2161
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0976979

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     50 of 508
TI: Topographical variations along the Tellicherry Beach during the southwest monsoon season.
AU: Premchand,-K.; Harish,-C.M.
AF: Cent. Earth Sci. Stud., Reg. Cent., Cochin 18, India
SO: MAHASAGAR. 1985. vol. 18, no. 2, pp. 299-305
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The short term changes in the topographical variations of the Tellicherry Beach along five profiles (twice a week) was worked out at closed space interval of around 200 m. The maximum loss of material was observed along the southern sections. The predominant wave approach was southwest which resulted in a northerly littoral drift with varying speeds during the southwest monsoon season. The wave heights generally did not exceed 1.5 m except on few days when it exceeded 2 m which resulted in the erosion of the foreshore beach material. A tumbola formation was noticed on the northern side of the study area.
DE: coastal-morphology; topographic-features; beach-erosion; beach-profiles; wave-forces; erosion-; monsoons-; ISW,-India,-Kerala,-Tellicherry-Beach
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
AN: 0976608

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     51 of 508
TI: Wave hindcast with the DSA-5 model in the seas adjacent to Korea.
AU: Kang,-S.W.; Kim,-C.S.; Choi,-J.K.
AF: Ocean Environ. Eng. Lab., Korea Ocean Res.  Dev. Inst., 215-1 Seocho-Dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, Korea Rep.
SO: BULL.-KOREA-OCEAN-RES.-DEV.-INST. 1984. vol. 6, no. 1-2, pp. 37-48
PY: 1984
LA: Korean
LS: English; Korean
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The DSA-5 wave model has been used to hindcast wave climates in the seas adjacent to Korea. The wave climate data during 1981-1983, observed by the KORDI and the JMA, were compared with the model calculations. Particularly, the sea-states were numerically simulated during the passages of typhoons, Cecil (1981), Agnes (1981) and Ellis (1982), and they were in a reasonably good agreement with the observations. The wave heights were consistantly underpredicted by up to  similar to  1 m of the averaged values, and these were in the contradiction of Park et al.'s (1984) results which showed the substantial overpredictions in the comparisons of the 1977-1978 observations. To resolve the discrepancy, the wave model requires further calibrations with observations in the Korean seas.
DE: hydraulic-models; wave-climate; hindcasting-; sea-state; mathematical-models; INW,-Korea,-Rep.
ID: DSA-5
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 0964986

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     52 of 508
TI: Return wave heights off South Uist estimated from seven years of data.
AU: Stanton,-B.R.
CA: Institute of Oceanographic Sciences, Wormley (UK)
SO: WORMLEY-UK-IOS 1984. 57 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: PB84-203207.
RN: IOS-164 (IOS164)
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Waves have been recorded off the island of South Uist in the Outer Hebrides since March 1976 in a continuing program of wave climate studies. This report is principally concerned with the data collected at the offshore site over the seven-year period up to February 1983. This site is 15 km west of South Uist in a water depth of 42 m.
DE: wave-height; wave-climate; wave-data; ANE,-British-Isles,-Scotland,-Western-Isles
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0947246

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     53 of 508
TI: A Late Miocene and Early Pliocene upper slope-to-shelf sequence of calcareous fine sediment from the Pacific margin of New Zealand.
AU: Ballance,-P.F.; Gregory,-M.R.; Gibson,-G.W.; Chaproniere,-G.C.; Kadar,-A.P.; Sameshima,-T.
AF: Geol. Dep., Auckland Univ., Auckland, New Zealand
CO: Int. Workshop on Fine-Grained Sediments, Halifax, N.S. (Canada), Aug 1982
SO: FINE-GRAINED-SEDIMENTS:-DEEP-WATER-PROCESSES-AND-FACIES. Stow,-D.A.V.;Piper,-D.J.W.-eds. 1984. no. 15 pp. 331-342
IS: ISBN 0-632-01075-4
ST: GEOL.-SOC.-SPEC.-PUBL. no. 15
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Upper Miocene and lower Pliocene sediments at East Cape, North Island, New Zealand, comprise an upwards-coarsening and shallowing sequence. Calcareous sandy siltstones, with coccoliths and about 10% clay, were deposited in upper bathyal depths. Upwards they became sandier, with an increasing ratio of benthic to planktic foraminifera and increasing macrofauna, and grade into fossiliferous very fine silty sands, with many coccoliths and a few percent clay; the sands were deposited in shelf depths of 50 to 100 m. Comparision with modern equilibrium shelves suggests that the shelf sediments were deposited on a storm-dominated, wind- and wave-driven ocean margin characterized by long-period swells and normal wave heights of 1 to 3 m.
DE: sedimentary-rocks; stratigraphy-; carbonate-sediments; sediment-distribution; Tertiary-; PSE,-New-Zealand,-North-I.
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sedimentary-structures-and-stratigraphy-2265
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Eastward (PSE)
AN: 0946823

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     54 of 508
TI: The visual estimation of shore-breaking wave heights.
AU: Balsillie,-J.H.; Carter,-R.W.G.
AF: Florida Dep. Nat. Resour., Div. Beaches and Shore, 3900 Commonwealth Blvd., Tallahassee, FL 32301, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1984. vol. 8, no. 4, pp. 367-375
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
NT: 4 tables, 9 figs.
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Although a number of programmes for the visual estimation of breaking wave height have been, or are being, operated in different parts of the world (USA-LEO, Australia-COPE), there has been little investigation of the reliability of such data to make precise evaluations of breaking wave height. Using a combination of field data for simultaneous visual estimations and measurements of breaking wave height, it can be shown that experienced observers are able to estimate mean height with only a 20% error. Also the moments of the breaking wave spectrum may be calculated, allowing quick and cheap measurements of extreme waves. LEO records from Florida and California indicate that almost 50% of the data are redundant as frequency of observation could be halved without loss. However, records appear to be filtered, inasmuch as extreme waves are underestimated.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-height; wave-data; nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0915335

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     55 of 508
TI: Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone.
AU: Svendsen,-I.A.
AF: Univ. Delaware, Dep. Civ. Eng., Newark, DE 19711, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1984. vol. 8, no. 4, pp. 303-329
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
NT: 19 figs.
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A theoretical model is developed for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. In the time-averaged equations of energy and momentum the energy flux, radiation stress and energy dissipation are determined by simple approximations which include the effect of the surface roller in the breaker and the actual shape of the waves. To the first approximation the roller represents a volume of water moving with the wave speed. It significantly changes both energy flux and radiation stress of the surf zone waves. The equations of energy and momentum are solved simultaneously to give the wave height variation and the set-up. Comparison with measurements shows good agreement. Also the transitions immediately after breaking are analyzed and shown to be in accordance with the above-mentioned ideas and results.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; wave-height; surf-zone; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0915076

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     56 of 508
TI: Complarisons between ship and buoy climatologies.
AU: Quayle,-R.G.
AF: Natl. Clim. Data Cent., NOAA Asheville, NC, USA
SO: MARINERS-WEATHER-LOG. 1984. vol. 28, no. 3, pp. 137-139
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Data from two recent climatic publications are compared, one consisting of analyses of climatic data from ships, the other from NOAA data buoys. The conclusions are in accord with concentional wisdom. On the average, winds and pressures match fairly well; air and sea temperatures from ships are slightly higher, wave heights lower.
DE: NOAA-; climate-; data-buoys; air-temperature; water-temperature
CL: Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Buoys-and-buoy-systems-2303
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0893382

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     57 of 508
TI: High-height long-period ocean waves generated by a severe storm in the Northeast Pacific Ocean during February 1983.
AU: Earle,-M.D.; Bush,-K.A.
AF: Mar. Environ. Corp., Manassas, VA 22110, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1984. vol. 14, no. 8, pp. 1286-1299
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave conditions as measured by eight data buoys are described for an intense storm off northern California with significant wave heights up to 12.9 m that occurred during February 1983. A very uncommon feature of the wave spectra is considerable energy at long periods of 20 to 25 s. Long period waves were generated west of the northern buoys and propagated as high swell to the southern buoys. Swell propagation was consistent with classical wave theory.
DE: shallow-water-waves; storms-; wave-propagation; INE,-USA
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 0876737

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     58 of 508
TI: Breaking wave forces and velocity fields.
AU: Easson,-W.J.; Greated,-C.A.
AF: Univ. Edinburgh, Phys. Dep., Fluid Dynamics Unit, The Kings' Buildings, Edinburgh EH3 9JZ, Scotland
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1984. vol. 8, no. 3, pp. 233-241
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
NT: 6 figs.
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new technique for measuring velocities under breaking wave crests using laser-doppler anemometry has been developed. Results may be obtained at positions up to 4 millimeters from the crest. A wave field is presented for a vertically fronted wave and comparison is made with an appropriate numerical study. The velocities obtained are far in excess of the predictions of linear theory. Measurements have also been made of the forces produced by this wave on a horizontal cylinder. Comparisons with large regular waves indicate that forces due to breaking waves can be up to five times greater for similar wave heights.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; wave-breaking; hydrodynamics-; measurement-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0874887

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     59 of 508
TI: Ground truth analysis supporting the high resolution flyover.
AU: Lott,-D.F.
CA: Naval Coastal Systems Cent., FL (USA)
SO: TECH.-MEMO.-U.S.-NAV.-COAST.-SYST.-CENT. 1983. 49 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A130 026/8; SBI-AD-F200 051.
RN: NCSC-TM-370-83 (NCSCTM37083)
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Ground truth measurements were collected during high resolution flyover tests desinged to maximize resolution of a multispectral scanner. Tests were conducted on 27 and 31 August and 1 September 1981 at sites providing different water mass types and bottom reflectances. Measurements of water level, wave heights, surface and water column temperatures, wind speed and direction, solar radiation, diffuse and beam attenuation coefficient, and secchi depth were obtained. The environmental conditions which affected scanner performance are summarized.
DE: remote-sensing; coastal-waters; oceanographic-data; aerial-surveys; wave-height; water-temperature; water-masses; reflectance-; winds-; solar-radiation; extinction-coefficient
ID: environmental-conditions
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393; Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2142
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0869716

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     60 of 508
TI: A review of major scientific results from U.S. satellite altimetry and projections for the future.
AU: Apel,-J.R.; Wilson,-W.S.
AF: Johns Hopkins Univ./Appl. Phys. Lab., Laurel, MD, USA
CO: 4. Interdisciplinary Symp. Geodetic Features of the Ocean Surface and Their Implications at the 18. Gen. Assembly of the Int. Union of Geodesy and Geophysics, Hamburg (FRG), Aug 1983
SO: MAR.-GEOPHYS.-RES. Seeber,-G.;Apel,-J.R.-eds. 1984. vol. 7, no. 1-2, pp. 1-16
IS: ISSN 0025-3235
NT: Special: Geodetic features of the ocean surface and their implications.
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Precision radar altimeters have been flown on three U.S. satellites during the past decade. The initial purpose of the altimeter was to relate the topography of the sea surface to currents and other oceanographic parameters. However, other geophysical fields have been derived as well, among them the marine geoid, marine gravity anomaly, surface wave heights, surface swell heights, and surface wind fields. Additionally, the altimeter has been used to deduce distributions of tidal amplitudes, the position of sea ice around the Antarctic continent and topography of the Greenland Ice Cap.
DE: satellite-altimetry; geophysics-; oceanography-; review-articles; USA-
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0862237

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     61 of 508
TI: Transformation of wave height distribution.
AU: Thornton,-E.B.; Guza,-R.T.
AF: Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA 93940, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS-ATMOS.. 1983. vol. 88, no. C10, pp. 5925-5938
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The transformation of random wave heights during shoaling, including waves breaking in the surf zone, was measured with an extensive array of instruments in the field. The initially Rayleigh height distributions in 10-m depth were observed to be modified by shoaling and breaking into new distributions which are again nearly Rayleight but with some energy loss. Using locally measured H sub(rms), the Rayleigh distribution describes the measured central moments of H sub(1/3) and H sub(1/10) with average errors of -0.2% and -1.8%, respectively. The Rayleigh distribution is used to describe the random nature of wave heights in a single-parameter transformation model based on energy flux balance.
DE: wave-height; wave-breaking; shoaling-waves; mathematical-models; energy-transfer
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0836853

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     62 of 508
TI: Quick-fit strain gauges excel in Christchurch Bay trial.
AU: Parkinson,-N.
AF: British Gas Eng. Res. Stn., Killingworth, UK
SO: OFFSHORE-ENG. 1984. pp. 61-64
PY: 1984
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The author describes a newly developed method of assessing the effect of structural modifications on offshore rigs. Such a system, known as GASCOWISE (Gas Corporation wave induced strain evaluation), has now been developed at the British Gas Engineering Research Station at Newcastle upon Tyne. The system continuously measures dynamic strains around the circumference of a member from which the axial and bending strain components are determined. This strain information can be correlated with simultaneous measurements of environmental data such as wave heights and water particle velocities.
DE: strain-gauges; strain-; dynamic-analysis; wave-action; offshore-structures; structural-analysis; drilling-rigs
ID: measurement-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0836555

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     63 of 508
TI: Return wave heights off South Uist estimated from seven years of data.
AU: Stanton,-B.R.
AF: New Zealand Oceanogr. Inst., P.O. Box 12-346, Wellington North, New Zealand
SO: REP.-INST.-OCEANOGR.-SCI.,-WORMLEY. 1984. 54 pp
PY: 1984
LA: English
PT: B (Book)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Waves have been recorded off South Uist, Outer Hebrides, since March 1976 in a continuing program of wave climate studies. This report is principally concerned with the data collected at the offshore site over the seven year period up to February 1983. This site is 15 km West of South Uist in a water depth of 42 m. Data has also been collected for shorter periods at other sites, particularly the Deepwater site, some 16km further offshore, in a water depth of 98 m.
DE: wave-climate; wave-height; wave-recorders; wave-analysis; ANE,-British-Isles,-Western-Isles,-South-Uist
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0836548

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     64 of 508
TI: Studies of the seakeeping qualities of bull trawlers by means of field measurements.
OT: Isei-sokobiki-ami-gyosen no taikosei ni kansuru kenkyu
AU: Nishinokubi,-H.
AF: Fac. Fish., Nagasaki Univ., Bunkyo-cho 1-14, Nagasaki, 852 Japan
CA: Hokkaido Univ., Minato-cho, Hakodate, (Japan). Fac. Fish
SO: BULL.-FAC.-FISH.-NAGASAKI-UNIV.-CHODAI-SUIKENPO. 1983. no. 54, pp. 61-131
IS: ISSN 0547-1427
NT: Doctoral thesis. Doctor of fisheries.
PY: 1983
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The motion of fishing boats, which is influenced by their fishing gear during fishing operations, and their motion response to ocean waves is greater than that of other types of ships, e.g., general cargo ships, in similar seaway situations. Research on the seakeeping qualities of fishing boats was conducted by making field measurements during fishing operations. The following points were studied: measurement method of wave height and the wave characteristics of the fishing grounds in the East China and Yellow Seas; short-term and long-term maximum distributions of wave heights and the motion of fishing boats; frequency response characteristics of fishing boats at sea; and estimation of numerical spectrum model of ship's motions.
DE: ship-motion; wave-motion; trawlers-; fishing-vessels; ships-; dynamics-; marine-engineering; displacement-; waves-; stability-; ISEW,-East-China-Sea; INW,-Yellow-Sea
CL: Practical-Aspects-of-Fisheries:-Fishing-vessels-and-harbors-1562; Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Surface-vehicles-2301; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW); Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 0827041

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     65 of 508
TI: Frequency analysis of wave heights based on wave envelope.
AU: Tayfun,-M.A.
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Coll. Eng. and Petrol., Kuwait Univ., Kuwait
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS-ATMOS.. 1983. vol. 88, no. C12, pp. 7573-7587
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Analysis and predicton of the heights of sea waves in terms of a conventional crest-to-trough definition present practical and theoretical difficulties. As a closely related alternative, the envelope of waves can directly be used as a reference for a wave height measure that is continuous in time. This concept is explored to show that not only it is consistent with the theoretical specification of irregular waves but that it also provides a remarkably efficient approach for the frequency analysis of wave heights in typical applications. Theoretical arguments and a specific case study reveal that the proposed approach generates frequency estimates that are improved in statistical quality and compare better with the available theoeies on the distribution of wave heights.
DE: frequency-analysis; wave-height; wave-predicting
ID: wave-envelope
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0812864

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     66 of 508
TI: Wave climate studies in the northern Gulf of Mexico: Comparisons of visual surf, SSMO, hindcast, and gage data.
AU: Mossa,-J.
AF: Coastal Geol. Program, Louisiana Geol. Surv., Box G, Univ. Stn., Baton Rouge, LA 70893, USA
CO: Oceans '84 Conference, Washington, DC (USA), 10-12 Sep 1984
SO: OCEANS-'-84-CONFERENCE-RECORD:-INDUSTRY,-GOVERNMENT,-EDUCATION.-DESIGNS-FOR-THE-FUTURE. Marine-Technology-Soc.,-Washington,-DC-USA;-IEEE,-New-York,-NY-USA 1984. vol. 2, pp. 717-724
ST: OCEANS-'-84.
RN: IEEE-84CH2066-9 (IEEE84CH20669)
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In recent years, several types of wave climate studies have been conducted in the Gulf of Mexico. Comparisons of the various types of data and the geographic distribution of wave heights and directions across the northern Gulf of Mexico have not been previously made. Available wave statistics are reviewed to analyze sources of error, to examine regional variations in the Gulf of Mexico, and to assist in the selection of the preferable data type for application.
DE: water-waves; wave-climate; wave-height; wave-data; ASW,-Mexico-Gulf
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 0793614

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     67 of 508
TI: (Marine meteorology and oceanographic satellites.).
OT: La meteorologie maritime a l'heure des satellites oceaniques
AU: Gerard,-F.
AF: Address not stated
SO: MET-MAR. 1983. vol. 121, pp. 9-25
IS: ISSN 0222-5123
PY: 1983
LA: French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The example of SEASAT-A and of the projected ERS-1 satellites are used to describe satellite sensors -- the radar altimeter, the radar scatterometer, and the synthetic aperture radar. The main advantages of satellites are to give a synoptic view of the World Ocean, and to produce perfectly homogeneous measurement. The ERSl satellite which should be operational in 1988, will give information on wave heights and spectra, and on the sea level. Meteorological prediction models are now being adapted to satellite data.
DE: satellite-sensing; satellite-altimetry; satellites-; sea-state; meteorology-; ocean-atmosphere-system
CL: Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Observations-and-measurements-at-sea-2242; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393; Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-General-2141
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0792099

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     68 of 508
TI: Transformation of irregular wave heights in the surf zone.
AU: Leont'-yev,-I.O.
AF: Shirshov Inst. Oceanol., USSR Acad. Sci., Moscow, USSR
SO: OCEANOL.-ACAD.-SCI.-USSR. 1983. vol. 23, no. 3, pp. 319-322
NT: Published 1984.
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Changes in the mean relative heights of irregular waves in the surf zone are analyzed with a simplified model of the transformation of wave spectra in shallow water. Wave propagation above a monotonically rising slope and above a slope with a subsurface bar are considered. It is shown that the calculated mean relative heights agree satisfactorily with the full-scale measurements. Recommendations for determining the depth of initial irregular wave breaking are given.
DE: wave-height; surf-zone; wave-spectra; wave-breaking
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767946

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     69 of 508
TI: Canadian programme of experimental measurement of sea-state characteristics by sky-wave radar.
AU: Winacott,-E.L.; Roche,-C.; Chan,-J.Y.K.
CA: Communications Research Cent., Ottawa, Ont. (Canada)
SO: PROPAGATION-FACTORS-AFFECTING-REMOTE-SENSING-BY-RADIO-WAVES. Aug-1983. pp. 14.1-14.17
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-P002 729/2.
PY: Aug 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In June, 1980, a limited programme of sky-wave radar measurements was undertaken to investigate the feasibility of measuring sea-state characteristics off the coast of Newfoundland. The programme involved the collection of data, the compilation of ground-truth maps of wave height, wind velocity and ice coverage, data analysis and interpretation. Maps of wind direction could be derived from the data, but maps of wave heights were quite sparse: less than one-quarter of the data were useful. In fact, since the acceptance criterion developed by U.S. workers was found to reject virtually all of the Canadian data; a manual acceptance technique had to be employed.
DE: sea-state; radar-; remote-sensing; ice-cover; wind-data; ANW,-Canada,-Newfoundland
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0767682

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     70 of 508
TI: Statistical properties of coastal waves around Japan.
AU: Hirose,-M.; Takahashi,-T.
AF: Hydraul. Eng. Div., Port and Harbour Res. Inst., Minist. Transp., Japan
CO: 30. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Muroran, Hokkaido (Japan), 1983
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, p. 240
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In Japan, the coastal wave observation has been carried out since 1970. This paper discusses the distribution properties of the wave persistence statistics and of parameters related to the joint distribution of the characteristic wave heights and periods with wave data observed in the coastal wave observation network.
DE: trapped-waves; wave-statistics; wave-data; wave-properties
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767576

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     71 of 508
TI: Effect of wave grouping on characteristics of irregular wave run-up.
AU: Mase,-H.; Doi,-H.; Iwagaki,-Y.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Kyoto Univ., Japan
CO: 30. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Muroran, Hokkaido (Japan), 1983
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, p. 238
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Characteristics of run-up of irregular waves having the same energy spectra but different wave groupings on gentle slopes, such as the number of running-up waves, the run-up heights and the run lengths of running-up waves were investigated experimentally, and the effect of wave grouping on irregular wave run-up was discussed.
DE: wave-groups; wave-runup
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767454

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     72 of 508
TI: Statistical properties of displacements of fixed-type offshore structures.
AU: Kimura,-A.; Seyana,-A.
AF: Dep. Ocean Civ. Eng., Fac. Eng., Tottori Univ., Japan
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, pp. 193-207
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper deals with a new method to evaluate the statistical properties of random wave forces on a pile structure and the displacements of the structure due to random waves. While past studies on random wave forces have been developed by assuming the narrow band spectrum of random waves (constant wave period), in section I, the probability distributions of the waves forces and the maximum wave forces in a sample are introduced in connection with the Morison equation and the joint probability distribution of wave heights and periods. A method to evaluate the frequency distribution of the displacements of the structure, which may be regarded approximately as the probability distribution, is treated in section II.
DE: wave-forces; stochastic-processes; statistical-analysis; wave-spectra
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0748943

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     73 of 508
TI: Distribution of wave heights in Bay of Bengal during summer monsoon.
AU: Rao,-C.V.K.P.; Prasad,-N.D.
AF: Naval Phys. and Oceanogr. Lab., Cochin, India
SO: MAUSAM. 1984. vol. 35, no. 1, pp. 107-110
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Hindcast wave heights in Bay of Bengal for summer monsoon are presented using SMB method and wind data reported in Indian Daily Weather Reports during 1976-80. Monthly average significant wave heights of both sea and swell range between 0.5 and 2.0 m. Southern and central portions of Bay are associated with higher waves. Propagation of swells in northerly direction has been observed during the period June-August. Highest possible significant wave heights computed from maximum wind speeds reported vary from 2.5 to 6.5 m.
DE: monsoons-; wave-height; hindcasting-; ISW,-Bengal-Bay; summer-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
AN: 0748303

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     74 of 508
TI: Waves in the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal during the monsoon season.
AU: Thiruvengadathan,-A.
AF: Reg. Meteorol. Cent., Colaba, Bombay, India
SO: MAUSAM. 1984. vol. 35, no. 1, pp. 103-106
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The wave data recorded over the Indian seas by the Russian research vessels during the ISMEX (Indo-Soviet Monsoon Experiment) of 1973 and the Monsoon Experiment of 1977 are analysed. It is found that for given wind speeds, wave heights remain practically the same, the scattering being quite small. This is probably because during the monsoon season, the steadiness of the wind is quite high and the fetch is quite large. An empirical relationship is obtained between the windspeed and characteristic wave height.
DE: monsoons-; wind-speed; wave-height; ISW,-Bengal-Bay; ISW,-Arabian-Sea
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
AN: 0748026

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     75 of 508
TI: Stiffness and energy dissipation characteristics of guyed tower with dynamic mooring properties.
AU: Morrison,-D.G.
AF: Univ. Stellenbosch, Stellenbosch 7600, South Africa
CO: 3. International Symposium on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, Energy Resources Technology Conference and Exhibition, New Orleans, LA (USA), 12-16 Feb 1984
SO: J.-ENERGY-RESOUR.-TECHNOL. 1984. vol. 106, no. 1, pp. 18-23
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A simple model is presented for a complex system, that contains the essential properties of a guyed tower. The dynamic response to wave load of a guyed tower is represented by a single degree of freedom model. Tower response, with different wave heights and hydrodynamic coefficients, using statically and dynamically determined mooring properties were calculated for a specific tower in 1100 ft of water.
DE: structural-dynamics; wave-effects; cable-dynamics; guyed-towers; offshore-structures; loading-; waves-; hydrodynamics-; modeling-; stiffness-
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Mooring-and-dynamic-positioning-2386; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-General-2321; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0738450

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     76 of 508
TI: Pressures on coastal bridges due to normal incidence waves.
AU: Denson,-K.H.
CA: Mississippi State Univ., Mississippi State (USA). Water Resources Res. Inst
SO: 1981. 90 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: PB83-204164.
RN: FHWA-MSHD-RD-81-076 (FHWAMSHDRD81076)
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish)
AB: Local pressures due to water waves were measured at discrete points along the underside of two 1:24 scale model bridges for various water depths and wave heights. One model was of a four-lane slab and beam bridge carrying traffic along two structurally separated lane pairs supported by a common pile bent. The other model was of a trapezoidal box girder bridge with superelevation to seaward. The slab/beam model was geometrically similar to the Bay St. Louis, Mississippi, bridge which was heavily damaged by Hurricane Camille in 1969. The second model was of a proposed interstate connector at Biloxi, Mississippi. Results of the research are presented in dimensionless form for use on geometrically similar bridges.
DE: coastal-structures; wave-forces; modelling-; bridges-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0732322

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     77 of 508
TI: Comparison of wave celerity theories with field data.
AU: Syvertsen,-M.R.
CA: Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA (USA)
SO: 1983. 40 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A128 620/2; Master's thesis.
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Three independent wave celerity data sets, measured on natural beaches, are compared with linear, bore, solitary, and hyperbolic wave theories. In the range of relative water depths and wave heights tested, hyperbolic wave theory, which is an asymptotic form of conoidal theory in shallow water, agreed most closely with measured wave celerities. Linear wave theory also gave satisfactory results; but bore and solitary wave theories overestimated the observed wave speeds. It is concluded that the observed waves are weakly dispersive in amplitude and that care must be taken to apply the theories only in their regime of validity.
DE: shallow-water-waves; coastal-zone; wave-data; wave-velocity; wave-height; waves-on-beaches
ID: wave-celerity
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0731719

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     78 of 508
TI: Factors influencing the water speed of swimming sea hares, Aplysia brasiliana .
AU: Hamilton,-P.V.
AF: Dep. Biol., Univ. West Florida, Pensacola, FL 32514, USA
SO: ANIM.-BEHAV. 1984. vol. 32, no. 2, pp. 367-373
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Swimming data for A. brasiliana , a gastropod mollusc, were studied to determine what variable influence water speed (i.e. the velocity of travel relative to the water mass). Water speeds varied from 2.5 to 14 m/min. Water speed was primarily correlated with current aspect (i.e. the angular difference between the animal's heading and the current direction), and the relationship was strongest at high current speeds. This relationship is termed the Thrust Modulation Response (TMR). High waves caused significant underestimation of water speed, and high waves also detracted from TMR clarity for other reasons. Water speed was not significantly correlated with release number, current speed, current component, wave component, water depth or sun aspect. Although considerable variance in water speed was not accounted for by the variables studied, it is clear future field experiments on mechanisms underlying the TMR should be done when current speeds are high and wave heights are low.
DE: swimming-behavior; velocity-; swimming-; current-velocity; Aplysia-brasiliana
CL: Autecology:-Behavior-1423
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 0721552

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     79 of 508
TI: Wave heights estimated by the Voluntary Observing Fleet compared with instrumental measurements at fixed positions.
AU: Graham,-A.E.
AF: Meteorol. Off., Bracknell, UK
SO: METEOROL.-MAG. 1983. vol. 112, no. 1332, pp. 210-224
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measured wave heights from twelve locations are compared with visual estimates made by the deck officers of merchant ships adjacent to the site. The methods of measurement and estimation are discussed together with the difficulties encountered in comparing the two different types of wave heights produced and in deriving extremes.
DE: selected-ships; wave-measuring-platforms; wave-measuring; approximation-; comparative-studies; wave-height
CL: Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Observations-and-measurements-at-sea-2242
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0716572

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     80 of 508
TI: Hurricane wave height and forces - 4: Design wave forces escalate to "100-year" conditions to consider storms, drag, fouling.
AU: Bea,-R.G.
AF: PMB Syst. Eng., Inc., San Francisco, CA, USA
SO: OIL-GAS-J. 1983. vol. 81, no. 43, pp. 95-99
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In the previous articles, the attenuation of wave heights across the Gulf's continental shelf was examined. More wave attenuation was found than was previously recognized. This article integrates these findings with other considerations regarding hurricane wave and current forces; the results being the development of a design wave force level similar to the API reference level for shallow water platforms in the Gulf of Mexico. A chronology of design basis wave forces.
DE: design-wave; wave-forces; hurricanes-; design-; offshore-structures; ASW,-Mexico-Gulf
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Drilling-and-production-rigs-2322; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 0709295

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     81 of 508
TI: Hurricane wave height and forces - 2: Deepwater storm waves dissipate across continental shelf.
AU: Bea,-R.G.
AF: PMB Syst. Eng. Inc., San Francisco, CA, USA
SO: OIL-GAS-J. 1983. vol. 81, no. 39, pp. 100-102
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Here, in the second article of this series, the author focusses his attention on the characterization of storm-generated, deepwater wave heights, and the physical processes which dissipate this energy over the continental shelf.
DE: wave-dissipation; deep-water-waves; wave-height; hurricanes-; offshore-structures; ASW,-Mexico-Gulf
ID: continental-shelves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Drilling-and-production-rigs-2322
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 0709183

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     82 of 508
TI: Transformation of irregular wave height in the surf zone.
OT: Transformatsiya vysot neregulyarnykh voln v pribojnoj zone
AU: Leont'-ev,-I.O.
AF: Inst. Okeanol. AN S.S.S.R., Moscow, USSR
SO: OKEANOLOGIYA. 1983. vol. 23, no. 3, pp. 428-432
IS: ISSN 0030-1574
PY: 1983
LA: Russian
LS: English; Russian
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Changes in the mean relative height of irregular waves in the surf zone are analyzed using a simplified model of shallow water wave spectrum transformation. The wave propagation over a gentle slope and over submarine steps is considered. The calculated mean relative wave heights are shown to be in agreement with the results of measurements. Recommendations on detecting the depth of the wave breaking onset are given.
DE: wave-height; wave-spectra; wind-waves; surf-zone; modelling-
ID: irregular-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0689825

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     83 of 508
TI: Assessment of a new global capability for wave climate synthesis.
AU: Hogben,-N.; Dacunha,-N.M.C.; Andrews,-K.S.
AF: N.M.I. Ltd., Feltham, Middlesex, UK
CO: Oceans '83 Conference, San Francisco, CA (USA), 29 Aug - 1 Sep 1983
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OCEANS-'-83.-EFFECTIVE-USE-OF-THE-SEA:-AN-UPDATE.-SAN-FRANCISCO,-AUGUST-29-SEPTEMBER-1,-1983.-VOLUME-2:-TECHNICAL-PAPERS.-MINERAL-RESOURCES-AND-ENERGY,-NON-MINERAL-RESOURCES,-TRANSPORTATION. 1983. pp. 837-842
ST: OCEANS-'-83.
RN: IEEE-83CH1972-9 (IEEE83CH19729)
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Reliable knowledge of wave climate is important for most uses of the sea. This paper describes a wave climate synthesis model developed to make the best use of all existing information. It concentrates on validation of the model, which derives data of enhanced reliability from the visual observations reported by ships in service. The enhancement methods are based on parametric modelling of the joint probabilities of wave heights with both wind speeds and wave periods and have been evaluated mainly in application to visual and measured data, but comparisons of model and hindcast data have also been made.
DE: wave-climate; mathematical-models; World-Ocean
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0644000

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     84 of 508
TI: Stochastic simulation of wave action on concave-shaped nearshore profiles.
AU: Lakhan,-V.C.
CA: Toronto Univ., Ont. (Canada)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1983. vol. 44, no. 3
NT: Diss. Ph.D.; Microfiche only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: A dynamic model for the stochastic simulation of wave action on concave-shaped nearshore profiles is presented. The Airy, Stokes and cnoidal wave theories, together with the appropriate wave shoaling equations are used. Wave heights are adjusted for breaking conditions, and both bed load and suspended load are computed. The modulus, k, of the cnoidal functions used to calculate the characteristics of the cnoidal wave is estimated by an efficient bisection technique.
DE: coastal-morphology; waves-on-beaches; simulation-; stochastic-processes; wave-propagation; modeling-; fluid-dynamics
ID: estimation-; dissertation-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0643633

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     85 of 508
TI: Sedimentary processes on the Iberian continental margin viewed by long-range side-scan sonar. Part 1: Gulf of Cadiz.
AU: Gardner,-J.V.; Kidd,-R.B.
AF: US Geol. Survey, Menlo Park, CA 94025, USA
SO: OCEANOL.-ACTA. 1983. vol. 6, no. 3, pp. 245-254
IS: ISSN 0399-1784
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A long-range side-scan sonar (Gloria) survey of the central and western Gulf of Cadiz reveals fields of sediment waves. The sediment waves in water depths less than 2000 m have an average amplitude of 23 m and an average wavelength of 1892 m. These bedforms appear to be directly related to Mediterranean outflow. Sediment waves in water depths greater than 2000 m are different in size from those shallower than 2000 m; they have average wave heights of 8 m and average wavelengths of 1121 m. These bedforms are probably not related to Mediterranean outflow, but rather are the result of a proposed eastern boundary current that appears to flow along the Northwest African margin, into the Gulf of Cadiz, and along the Western Iberian margin.
DE: sedimentary-structures; bathymetry-; acoustic-imagery; topographic-features; continental-margins; submarine-canyons; water-currents; ANE,-Spain,-Cadiz-Gulf
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0586706

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     86 of 508
TI: Effects of spectrum band width on the distribution of wave heights and periods.
AU: Tayfun,-M.A.
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Coll. Eng. Pet., Kuwait Univ., P.O. Box 5969, Kuwait
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1983. vol. 10, no. 2, pp. 107-118
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A theoretical expression for the joint distribution of crest-to-trough wave heights and zero up-crossing periods is developed from a modified extension of presently available results relevant to wave envelopes and periods under narrowband conditions. The resulting probability structure, in particular, the marginal density for crest-to-trough heights is explored explicitly with respect to effects associated with the spectrum band width. Results are given to show that the Rayleigh distribution, which is often used in predicting crest-to-trough heights, can not be regarded as accurate. The analysis is extended further to restate and establish the validity of an approximate expression for the distribution of crest-to-trough heights, which was suggested in a previous study (Tayfun, 1981).
DE: wave-spectra; wave-height; wave-period; statistical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0569386

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     87 of 508
TI: Nonlinear effects on the distribution of crest-to-trough wave heights.
AU: Tayfun,-M.A.
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Coll. Eng. Pet., Kuwait Univ., P.O. Box 5969, Kuwait
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1983. vol. 10, no. 2, pp. 97-106
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The statistical distribution of the crest-to-trough heights of narrowband nonlinear sea waves is derived in a semi-closed form. A quantitative comparison of the resulting density and exceedance probability distributions with those of the linear theory is given. It is shown that the nonlinearity of waves, even with steepnesses typical of extreme sea states, has an insignificant influence on the distribution of crest-to-trough heights.
DE: wave-height; statistical-analysis; nonlinear-waves; sea-state; extreme-values
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0569354

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     88 of 508
TI: Offshore crane operation progress report No. 3. Vertical deck velocities of supply vessel at zero speed.
AU: Robertsson,-S.
CA: Det norske Veritas, Oslo (Norway)
SO: TECH.-REP.-DET-NORSKE-VERITAS. OSLO-NORWAY-DNV 1980. no. 80-00-97, 24 pp
RN: DNV-80-00-97 (DNV800097)
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The method for calculation of the probability of large deck motions coinciding with a lift of a load from a ship in a sea way is described. Expressions are given for estimation of the vertical velocity at two locations on deck for given wave periods, wave heights and ship lengths. Numerical examples showing the application of the theories are included.
DE: cranes-; offshore-operations; ship-motion; supply-boats; stochastic-processes; probability-theory; wave-forces
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Ocean-operations-2388; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Tools,-rigging-and-deck-machinery-2391
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0555041

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     89 of 508
TI: Prediction of nearshore wave transformation.
AU: Hubertz,-J.M.
CA: Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Fort Belvoir, VA (USA)
SO: COAST.-ENG.-TECH.-AID-U.S.-ARMY-COAST.-ENG.-RES.-CENT. FORT-BELVOIR,-VA-USA-CERC 1982. 14 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A125 104/0.
RN: CERC-CETA-82-7 (CERCCETA827)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The DHI System 21 Mark 8 numerical model for the prediction of both long and short waves is being used in certain studies of coastal engineering problems. Procedures are discussed for using the model to predict nearshore short wave transformations. An example is presented showing the combined effects of retraction shoaling, reflection, and diffraction. Predicted model results are compared to measured wave heights at the Coastal Engineering Research Center's Field Research Facility in Duck, North Carolina.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; wave-predicting; short-crested-waves; shallow-water-waves; wave-diffraction; wave-reflection; wave-refraction; shoals-; ANW,-USA,-North-Carolina
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0554992

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     90 of 508
TI: A numerical model for current depth refraction of dissipative waves.
AU: Christoffersen,-J.B.; Skovgaard,-O.; Jonsson,-I.G.
AF: Inst. Hydrodynamics & Hydraulic Eng., Denmark
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 425-443
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A computational model is presented for the steady state prediction of water waves, currents, and sea surface elevations in a coastal or offshore region outside the surf zone. A novelty is the elaboration and inclusion of a turbulent model for bottom friction in a combined current wave motion. Primarily this modifies the calculated wave heights. Further, the current field and the mean water surface (MWS) are altered. Surface gravity waves on large-scale steady currents over a gently sloping rough sea bed are considered. A second order Stockian approach is used, and all dynamic quantities are integrated over depth and averaged over time, in that order.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; water-waves; wave-dissipation; gravity-waves; wave-height; wave-action; mathematical-models; nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554662

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     91 of 508
TI: NHL - ocean laboratory engineering and construction of building and sub-systems.
AU: Eggestad,-I.
AF: Norwegian Hydrodynamic Lab., Norway
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 1145-1167
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The main parts of the ocean basin installations are described generally. First some special features of the building structure and architecture are outlined, whereafter a somewhat more detailed explanation is given of the operation of the adjustable steel bottom and the water current system. Emphasis is also given to the wave making installation. A double flap wave maker is 48.6 m long, for generating heavy longcrested regular and irregular waves, with significant wave heights of about 0.6 m. A 144-element wave maker in right angle to the former, 62.5 m long is capable of generating inclined regular waves and directional wave spectra for significant wave heights about 0.25 m. Also the water treatment and special routines for oil clean-up tests are shortly described. Finally the interlocking system is mentioned.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; laboratory-design; ocean-basins; models-; Norway-
ID: NHL-Ocean-Basin
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554554

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     92 of 508
TI: Estimating directional return values of wave height from the NORSWAM data set.
AU: Carter,-D.J.T.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., UK
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 90-99
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Estimates of directional 50-year return values of significant wave height are derived from the data set produced by the North Sea Wave Model (NORSWAM) project. The NORSWAM data set consists of wind and wave data at grid points in the North Sea and the adjacent part of the Atlantic Ocean, covering 42 storms which occurred in the North Sea during 1966-1976. The maximum significant wave heights associated with winds from each octant of the compass obtained during each storm are used to derive estimates of directional return values at grid points in the northern North Sea. Omni-directional return values are obtained by combining the directional distributions of maximum wave height. These values are compared with estimates by others, and are found to be generally higher - in particular at some grid points south of 59 degree N.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; wave-height; wind-data; wave-data; models-
ID: North-Sea-Wave-Model
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554478

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     93 of 508
TI: Wave grouping studied by means of correlation techniques.
AU: Rye,-H.; Lervik,-E.
AF: Norwegian Hydrodynamic Lab., Trondheim, Norway
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 25-45
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The possibility of studying wave groups by means of the correlation function of the sea surface is considered. The statistical uncertainties involved when this function is estimated from recordings of finite length are considerable. Simulations carried out on the computer show that the secondary maxima which are sometimes observed to be present in the envelope of the correlation function cannot be assumed to be statistically significant for typical wind-wave recordings. However, previous calculations have shown that succeeding zero-up-cross wave heights are correlated with a positive correlation coefficient. The paper considers how this correlation coefficient depends on the spectral shape and on the length of the recording. Numerical simulation results are compared with field data. All simulations are based on the JONSWAP spectral shape. A brief description of this spectrum is given.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; wave-height; surface-water; computer-simulation
ID: correlation-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554388

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     94 of 508
TI: Joint probabilities for wave heights and other wave characteristics occurring simultaneously.
AU: Borgman,-L.E.
AF: Univ. Wyoming, Laramie, WY 82070, USA
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 1-13
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The choice of a design wave height usually does not completely characterize ocean conditions for the design engineer. Associated properties such as wave period and direction of travel need to be selected also. The mathematics for the joint probabilities of the extreme of one random variable and the values for other simultaneously occurring variables are developed as they relate to the joint probability laws for the basic population of variables. Recent study of the joint probability laws for wave height period and travel direction are presented.
DE: design-waves; hydrodynamics-; wave-height; mathematical-analysis; offshore-engineering
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554369

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     95 of 508
TI: Estimation of wave power potential along the Indian coastline.
AU: Rao,-T.V.S.N.; Sundar,-V.
AF: Ocean Eng. Cent., Indian Inst. Technol., Madras 600-036, India
SO: ENERGY. 1982. vol. 7, no. 10, pp. 839-845
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An assessment of the wave power potential along the Indian coastline has been made for different seasons. The locations off Bombay on the west coast and off Visakhapatnam on the east coast have the greatest wave power potentials. the occurrence of wave heights and periods are presented graphically. Monthly wave power variations for locations along the Indian coastline are also reported.
DE: India-; hydroelectric-power-generation; technological-forecasting; wave-propagation; energy-resources; tidal-energy; wave-power; wave-height; resource-availability; ISW,-India
CL: Resources:-Energy-from-the-sea-2406
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
AN: 0519916

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     96 of 508
TI: Verification and transfer of thermal pollution model. Volume 4: User's manual for three-dimensional rigid-lid model.
AU: Lee,-S.S.; Nwadike,-E.V.; Sinha,-S.E.
CA: Miami Univ., Coral Gables, FL (USA)
SO: CORAL-GABLES,-FL-USA-MU 1982. 156 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: PB83-116103; Contract NAS10-9410.
RN: EPA-600/7-82-037D (EPA600782037D)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: The six-volume report: describes the theory of a three-dimensional (3-D) mathematical thermal discharge model and a related one-dimensional (1-D) model, includes model verification at two sites, and provides a separate user's manual for each model. The 3-D model has two forms: free surface and rigid lid. The former, verified at Anclote Anchorage (FL), allows a free air/water interface and is suited for significant surface wave heights compared to mean water depth; e.g., estuaries and coastal regions. The latter, verified at Lake Keowee (SC), is suited for small surface wave heights compared to depth because surface elevation has been removed as a parameter. These models allow computation of time-dependent velocity and temperature fields for given initial conditions and time-varying boundary conditions.
DE: thermal-pollution; mathematical-models; hydrology-
CL: Pollution:-Methods-and-instruments-1502; Pollution:-Methods-and-instruments-2442
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0516679

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     97 of 508
TI: Assessment of wave hindcast methodologies in the Scotian Shelf, Grand Banks and Labrador Sea areas.
AU: Resio,-D.T.
CA: Department Fish. & Oceans, Ottawa, Ont. (Canada). Mar. Environ. Data Serv. Br
SO: CAN.-CONTRACT.-REP.-HYDROGR.-OCEAN-SCI. 1982. no. 4, 132 pp
NT: Incl. weather maps.
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: B (Book)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Hindcast by the U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) are reviewed, and recommendations for their use in Canadian portions of the Atlantic Ocean are made. Six storms typical of problems in those hindcasts are selected, and complete hindcast analyses are performed for each. Since the wind model and wave model used in these new hindcasts are identical to the WES models, conclusions regarding error sources can be formed from comparisons of the two sets of hindcasts. Sources of error detected here and methods of obtaining reliable hindcast wave heights are discussed.
DE: wave-hindcasting; wave-height; wave-measuring; weather-forecasting; methodology-; ANW,-Canada
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Observations-and-measurements-at-sea-2242
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0513107

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     98 of 508
TI: Wave motion in an estuary.
AU: Barthel,-V.
CA: Wasser- und Schiffahrtsamt, Bremerhaven (FRG)
SO: BREMERHAVEN-FRG-WS 1982. 299 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: N83-13774/5; ISSN 0340-8868.
RN: BMFT-FB-M-82-001 (BMFTFBM82001)
PY: 1982
LA: German
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: B (Brackish)
AB: Wave climate in an estuary with a strongly changing topography was investigated. Wave effects on coastal engineering works, or morphology and on the vertical movements of large ships by long-period waves were measured by wave-rider buoys and wave gages. Data were analyzed for significant wave parameters and by spectral analysis. The results show the dependence of wave height and period on wind velocity and direction as well as on water depth. Long-period waves and maximum wave heights up to 15 can occur. The spectral analysis shows that the loss of energy with respect to heights in a reef region is smaller than expected and that the main transformation of energy can be detected in front of the Wadden Sea. Only 20% of incoming energy reaches the interior estuary.
DE: estuarine-dynamics; wave-climate; ship-motion; geomorphology-; coastal-engineering; topography-; wave-energy; ANE,-Wadden-Sea
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0511378

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                     99 of 508
TI: Coastal work at Torness Nuclear Power Station.
AU: Kristiansen,-R.; Amin,-H.
AF: Sir Robert McAlpine & Sons, Ltd., UK
CO: Oceanology International Exhibition and Conference, Brighton (UK), 2-5 Mar 1982
SO: OCEANOLOGY-INTERNATIONAL-EXHIBITION-AND-CONFERENCE,-2-5-MARCH-1982,-BRIGHTON. Society-for-Underwater-Technology,-London-UK 1982. pp. OI82 6.5
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper describes the construction of the 1.5km-long Sea Wall at Torness Nuclear Power Station from 1979 to 1981. The construction of this coastal defence varies along its length and includes a Sea Wall, a Breakwater, a Ro-Ro Quay, a Barge Dock and two temporary Cofferdam Structures. The coastline in this area is unprotected from northerly winds and the wave heights can increase considerably at short notice. This coupled with a rocky foreshore and a tidal range exceeding 5m permitted only certain design and construction methods to be used. The paper illustrates the various activities necessary and highlights some of the problems encountered and overcome during the site production, the handling and placing of 17,000 precast concrete Dolos Units, the quarrying and placing of large amounts of suitable rock, both above and below the water line, underwater blasting and excavation of a toe trench and a turning basin.
DE: sea-walls; constructing-; nuclear-power-plants; construction-methods; ANE,-British-Isles,-Torness-Nuclear-Power-Station
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0508824

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    100 of 508
TI: Wave deformation on semicircular step type reef.
AU: Tsukayama,-S.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Ryukyus, Japan
CO: 29. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering Tokyo (Japan) (1982)
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, p. 279
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Laboratory experiments were carried out to investigate the wave deformation on the three dimensional semicircular step type reef. The distributions of wave heights on the reef are discussed in relation to wave steepness and relative water depth. Some theoretical considerations on the problems are also presented.
DE: wave-height; wave-breaking; water-depth; semicircular-step-type-reef; wave-steepness
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0491035

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    101 of 508
TI: Bending moments and shear forces in ships sailing in irregular waves.
AU: Jensen,-J.J.; Pedersen,-P.T.
AF: Dep. Ocean Eng., Technical Univ. Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark
SO: J.-SHIP-RES. 1981. vol. 25, no. 4, pp. 243-251
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper presents results concerning the vertical response of two different ships sailing in regular and irregular waves. One ship is a containership with a relatively small block coefficient and with some bow flare while the other ship is a tanker with a large block coefficient. The wave-induced loads are calculated using a second-order strip theory, derived by a perturbational procedure in which the linear part is identical to the usual strip theory. The numerical results show that for the containership a substantial increase in bending moments and shear forces is caused by the quadratic terms. The results also show that for both ships the effect of the hull flexibility (springing) is a fair increase of the variance of the wave-induced midship bending moment. For the tanker the springing is due mainly to exciting forces which are linear with respect to wave heights whereas for the containership the nonlinear exciting forces are of importance.
DE: wave-forces; container-ships; tanker-ships; deformation-; shearing-stress; hulls-; shear-stress
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0490804

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    102 of 508
TI: (Simulation of successive wave heights with a nonzero distribution according to Rayleigh Law.).
OT: Simulacion de alturas sucesivas de olas con correlacion no-nula distribuidas segun la Ley de Rayleigh
AU: Pena,-H.G.
AF: Cent. Invest. Cient. Educ. Sup. Ensenada, Dep. Oceanogr., Baja California Sur, Mexico
SO: GEOFIS.-INT. 1981. vol. 20, no. 2, pp. 109-119
IS: ISSN 0016-7169
PY: 1981
LA: Spanish
LS: English; Spanish
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The successive wave heights are modelled with a first order autoregressive process with a nonzero first lag autocorrelation. Using an algorithm which preserves the mean, standard deviation and skewness coefficient, the wave heights are generated with a Rayleigh probability density distribution law. The results of this simulation show excellent agreement with the theoretical distribution. An application of simulated results on a run of waves statistics is shown, and again, these results compare favorably with observational data.
DE: mathematical-models; wave-height; simulation-; wind-waves; Rayleigh-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0490687

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    103 of 508
TI: Refraction and diffraction of waves near a large scale coastal structure.
AU: Mitsui,-H.; Miyamoto,-Y.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Tokushima Univ., Japan
CO: 29. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering Tokyo (Japan) (1982)
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, p. 280
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Waves near a structure are divided into plane waves and cylindrical waves which are refracted individually. As an approximate diffraction theory is used, wave heights are calculated in a short time especially near large scale structures. In addition, secondary diffraction due to incident diffracted waves is taken into account.
DE: coastal-structures; wave-refraction; wave-diffraction; wave-height
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0473839

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    104 of 508
TI: Bar morphology of dissipative beaches: An empirical model.
AU: Bowman,-D.; Goldsmith,-V.
AF: Dep Geogr., Ben-Gurion Univ. Negev, Beer-Sheva 84120, Israel
SO: MAR.-GEOL. 1983. vol. 51, no. 1-2, pp. 15-33
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This study of 150 examples of nearshore bar morphology along the highly dissipative beaches ( epsilon  > 33) of the southeast Mediterranea shoreline employs 32 years of aerial photography and wave data, aided by detailed short-term field studies. Three major bar types were delineated: non-rhythmic parallel/meandering bars, inner single-crescentic bars and double-crescentic bars. Each of these bar families includes variations. The bars were related to daily ship and shore-wave data, including wave spectra, from the day of observation back to 60 days prior to the observation. The increase in total bar occurrence during summer is related to crossing of a major wave-energy threshold in the spring, when significant wave heights  less than or equal to  1 m sharply increased to 70-85% in April-May.
DE: sand-bars; wave-spectra; wave-height; geomorphology-; seasonal-variations; MED,-Israel
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Topography-and-morphology-2263; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 0472652

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    105 of 508
TI: Wave grouping described by bounded long waves.
AU: Sand,-S.E.
AF: Danish Hydraulic Inst., Agern Alle 5, DK 2970 Horsholm, Denmark
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1982. vol. 9, no. 6, pp. 567-580
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: During the last decade the practical importance of wave grouping has led to an increasing number of attempts to describe runs of higher waves, wave group envelopes, correlation of wave heights, etc. Hence, a function proportional to the square of the wave elevations has been proved to be a suitable measure of wave grouping. This also applies to the second order, group-induced long wave spectrum, which is shown to be a physical, measurable quantity relevant as a means for describing wave grouping and important in regard to floating structures with low frequency response. The theory is confirmed by field measurements and comparison with concepts directly related to the description of wave groups.
DE: wave-groups; wave-height; shallow-water-waves; wave-spectra; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0465334

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    106 of 508
TI: Waves generated by river traffic and wind on the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers.
AU: Bhowmik,-N.G.; Demissie,-M.; Guo,-C.-Y.
CA: Illinois Univ. at Urbana-Champaign, IL, (USA). Water Resources Cent.
SO: URBANA,-IL-USA-IULU-WRC 1982. 96 pp
NT: NTIS Order No: PB82-254897; Contract DI-14-34-0001-0115; W82-06163.
RN: UILU-WRC-82-0167 (UILUWRC820167)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: Data on waves generated by river traffic/winds on the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers as representative U.S. waterways were collected systematically to address specific questions (the characteristics of waves from tows/barges/boats in an inland waterway; similarities/dissimilarities between these waves and those produced by natural effects; wave intensity changes as a function of increased river traffic) and the associated effect of bank erosion. The data were obtained in six field trips to four river test sites. Maximum wave heights ranged from 0.1-1.08 feet, while maximum drawdown ranged from 0.05-0169 foot. In general, observed and calculated waves from river traffic and wind are both sufficient to cause stream bank erosion along the Rivers.
DE: wave-generation; surface-craft; rivers-; wind-wave-generation; wave-properties; erosion-; USA,-Mississippi-R.; USA,-Illinois-R.
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Dynamics-of-lakes-and-rivers-2171; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0444129

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    107 of 508
TI: WAVES: A FORTRAN IV program on the stochastic simulation of waves in the coastal environment.
AU: Lakhan,-V.C.
AF: Dep. Geog., Univ. Toronto, Sidney Smith Hall, 100 St. George St., Toronto, Ont., Canada M5S 1A1
SO: COMP.-and-GEOSCI. 1982. vol. 8, no. 1, pp. 45-60
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A FORTRAN IV program for the stochastic simulation of waves and tidal characteristics in any coastal environment is presented. The Airy, Stokes', and cnoidal wave theories are used in the simulation depending on the ratio of water depth to wave length. During each iteration of the program, the movement of a set of waves from deep water to the shore is simulated. Deep-water wave heights, and periods vary randomly from one iteration to the next, such that these values conform to a Rayleigh probability distribution. Each iteration represents one twelfth of a tidal cycle or approximately 70 min. The tidal range, which changes every 12 iterations is a normally-distributed random variate. Wave height, length, celerity, and horizontal components of water particle velocities change at a user-specified number of equally-spaced points along the near shore slope, or at varying water depths. Shoaling equations for the Stokes' and cnoidal wave theories are used, and wave heights are adjusted for breaking conditions. The modulus, k, of the cnoidal functions used to calculate the characteristics of the cnoidal waves, is estimated by an efficient bisection technique.
DE: stochastic-processes; wave-propagation; oceanography-; simulation-; fluid-dynamics; WAVES-; FORTRAN-IV; waves-; fluid-mechanics; coastal-zones; computer-programs; wave-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0430274

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    108 of 508
TI: The interaction between waves and a turbulent current: Waves propagating with the current.
AU: Kemp,-P.H.; Simons,-R.R.
AF: Dep. Civ. Municip. Eng., University Coll. London, Gower St., London WC1E 6BT, UK
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1982. vol. 116, pp. 227-250
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); F (Freshwater)
AB: This paper describes an experimental program carried out in a laboratory channel with rough and smooth beds, to investigate the interaction between gravity waves and a turbulent current. In particular, changes induced in the mean-velocity profiles, turbulent fluctuations, bed shear stresses and wave attenuation rates are considered for a range of wave heights, keeping the wave period constant. The smooth-boundary tests were carried out as a necessary preliminary to the more-realistic rough-boundary condition. Preliminary tests were carried out on the unidirectional current and on the waves alone. These show that mean-velocity profiles and turbulence parameters of the current agree satisfactorily with previous experiments, and that the waves are approximated closely by Stokes' second-order theory. For combined wave and current tests, mean-velocity profiles are generally found to differ from those suggested by a linear superposition of wave and current velocities, a change in boundary-layer thickness being indicated.
DE: channels-; gravity-waves; currents-; turbulent-flow; velocity-; shear-stress
ID: fluid-dynamics; wave-propagation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0430061

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    109 of 508
TI: Waves measured at Helwick Light Vessel Bristol Channel. Data for August 1960 to July 1961 at position 51 degree 30.5'N 4 degree 25.5'W.
AU: Draper,-L.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, GU8 5UB, UK
SO: REP.-INST.-OCEANOGR.-SCI.,-WORMLEY. WORMLEY-UK-INSTITUTE-OF-OCEANOGRAPHIC-SCIENCES 1978. no. 58, 26 pp
NT: Unpublished manuscript.
PY: 1978
LA: English
PT: B (Book)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave records from the Helwick Light Vessel, stationed approximately 5 miles south-west of Worms Head, Gower Peninsula, for the period August 1960 to July 1961 were analysed. Local winds, responsible for wave generation at Helwick, were lighter than average during the period in which the wave recorder was operational. Thus the locally generated waves are likely to have been lower in height and period than those in an average year. Factors are given which may be used to estimate the wave heights and periods in a normal year.
DE: wave-recorders; wind-waves; wave-height; wave-period; wave-analysis; oceanographic-data; ANE,-British-Isles,-West-Glamorgan
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0427826

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    110 of 508
TI: Run-up height and period of irregular waves on gentle slopes.
AU: Iwata,-K.; Sawaragi,-T.; Nobuta,-W.
AF: Dep. Civil Eng., Nagoya Univ., Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 259
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Run-up height and period of irregular waves on gentle slopes are discussed based on both theory and experiments. Distributions of run-up height and period period are determined by the joint distribution of incident individual wave heights and periods and that of incident envelope wave heights and periods.
DE: wave-runup; wave-period; beach-slope
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0421237

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    111 of 508
TI: Reflection characteristics of solitary waves.
AU: Matsuda,-T.
AF: Takasago Tech. Inst., Mitsubishi Heavy Ind., Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 260
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Reflected wave heights, phase delay and run-up heights regarding steep slopes were researched for solitary waves. The theory based upon the wave motion on the steep slopes was presented to explain these characteristics with good agreement with the experimental results.
DE: solitary-waves; wave-reflection; wave-height; wave-runup; wave-slope
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0420228

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    112 of 508
TI: Evaluation of wave height computation inside a harbor by comparison to observed field waves.
AU: Takayama,-T.; Nizhida,-K.
AF: Mar. Hydrodynam. Div., Port & Harbour Res. Inst., Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 252
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: One of the authors has already developed a new computing method of the wave height distribution inside a harbor, taking the multi-reflection from sea walls or quays into consideration. In this report, the validity of the method is confirmed by the comparison to field wave heights observed inside the Akita Port and the Niigata West Port.
DE: wave-height; harbors-; wave-reflection; INW,-Japan,-Akita-Port; INW,-Japan,-Niigata-West-Port
ID: computation-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 0420134

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    113 of 508
TI: Experimental study on the breaking of irregular waves.
AU: Isobe,-M.; Nishimura,-H.; Tsuka,-T.
AF: Dep. Civil Eng., Univ. Tokyo, Japan
CO: 27. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (Japan), 1980
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 233
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking condition of individual wave component in irregular waves was investigated experimentally. In order to clarify the influence of the adjacent waves, wave trains in which series of waves with various heights appear repeatedly were also employed. The results were examined in comparison with the regular wave breaking.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-height; wave-wave-interaction; irregular-waves; hydrodynamics-
ID: experimental-research
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0415226

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    114 of 508
TI: Statistical properties of random wave forces on a pile.
AU: Kimura,-A.; Seyama,-A.; Ueno,-A.
AF: Dep. Ocean Civ. Eng., Tottori Univ., Japan
CO: 27. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (Japan), 1980
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 241
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The probability distribution of random wave forces due to the fully developed sea waves acting on a pile is developed from the joint distribution of the wave heights and wave periods expressed by two-dimensional Weibull distribution together with the Morison formula.
DE: piles-; wave-forces; wave-height; wave-period
ID: statistical-analysis; random-waves
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0414728

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    115 of 508
TI: Waves: A FORTRAN IV program on the stochastic simulation of waves in the coastal environment.
AU: Chris-Lakhan,-V.
AF: Dep. Geog., Univ. Toronto, Sidney Smith Hall, 100 St. George St., Toronto, Ont., Canada M5S 1A1
SO: COMPUT.-GEOSCI. 1982. vol. 81, no. 1, pp. 45-60
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: A FORTRAN IV program for the stochastic simulation of waves and tidal characteristics in any coastal environment is presented. The Airy, Stokes', and cnoidal wave theories are used in the simulation depending on the ratio of water depth to wave length. During each iteration of the program, the movement of a set of waves from deep water to the shore is simulated. Deep-water wave heights, and periods vary randomly from one iteration to the next, such that these values conform to a Rayleigh probability distribution. Each iteration represents one twelfth of a tidal cycle or approximately 70 min. Wave height, length, celerity, and horizontal components of water particle velocities change at a user-specified number of equally-spaced points along the near shore slope, or at varying water depths. Shoaling equations for the Stokes' and cnoidal wave theories are used, and wave heights are adjusted for breaking conditions.
DE: water-waves; coastal-waters; tidal-effects
ID: simulation-; computer-programs
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Tides,-surges-and-sea-level-2167
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0413772

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    116 of 508
TI: A discussion of procedures to estimate extreme wave heights over the Canadian Atlantic continental shelf.
AU: Readshaw,-J.S.; Baird,-W.F.
AF: W.F. Baird & Assoc., Coastal Engineers Ltd., Ottawa, Ont., Canada
CA: Department of Fisheries and Oceans, Ottawa, Ont. (Canada).
SO: CONTRACT.-REP.-MAR.-ENVIRON.-DATA-SERV.-CANADA. 1981. no. 3, 76 pp
NT: Incl. bibliogr.: 156 ref.
RN: ID: MEDS8100903ZE (MEDS8100903ZE)
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: R (Report); Z (Bibliography)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A general review of the state of the art of estimating extreme values of the significant wave height is provided. The general types of analyses that involve recorded wave data, hindcast wave data, and project storms are discussed. The use of asymptotic probability distributions are reviewed in detail. In particular, the assumptions and limitations of these procedures are described. The characteristics of the available data and the limitations that these characteristics impose on extreme value statistics are discussed at length. The climatology of the Atlantic Continental Shelf is briefly described, and unique requirements of extreme value procedures for this area are noted. Finally, recommendations for further studies necessary to develop reliable procedures for estimating extreme wave statistics over the Canadian Atlantic Continental Shelf are made.
DE: wave-height; water-waves; continental-shelves; climatology-; ANW,-Canada
ID: literature-reviews
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0413436

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    117 of 508
TI: Calculation of trapped reflected waves.
AU: Camfield,-F.E.
AF: U.S. Army Coast. Eng., Res. Cent., Kingman Build., Ft. Belvoir, VA 22060, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-DIV.-AM.-SOC.-CIV.-ENG. 1982. vol. 108, no. WW1, pp. 109-111
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: A substantial increase in reflected wave energy may result where structures are built along a section of coastline, with no beach fronting the structure. In certain instances where the structure is relatively parallel to bottom contours, and the wave direction and offshore topography near the end of the structure result in wave reflection at a sufficiently large angle, the structure may combine with a steep bottom slope, S, to form a wave guide which traps wave energy along the shoreline. This trapped energy may magnify wave heights and increase erosion along an adjacent section of shoreline.
DE: trapped-waves; wave-reflection; coastal-structures; wave-forces; coastal-erosion
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0413417

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    118 of 508
TI: Joint distribution of the wave heights and periods of random sea waves.
AU: Kimura,-A.
AF: Dep. Ocean Civ. Eng., Fac. Eng., Tottori Univ., Japan
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 24, pp. 77-92
NT: Published in 1982.
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper deals with the applicability of the 2-dimensional Weibull distribution for the joint distribution of the random wave heights and periods. Investigations with the 50 cases of simulated random waves in a laboratory wave tank show that 2-dim. Weibull distribuiton has good applicability if the shape factors and the correlation parameter are selected appropriately. While the shape factors m for the wave height distributions are distributed around 2.0 (Rayleigh distribution), the shape factors n for the wave period distributions decrease considerably with the increase of the spectral width parameter  epsilon . The correlation parameter  rho , which is determined with the shape factors m, n and  gamma ht, has a close connection with the spectrum width parameter. Then these parameters of the 2-dim. Weibull distribution can be estimated from the power spectrum and successful approximations can be achieved for the simulated random waves.
DE: wave-height; wave-period
ID: statistical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0413410

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    119 of 508
TI: The climate of Denmark. Summaries of observations from light vessels. Part 2: Waves and currents at the surface.
AU: Sparre,-A.
CA: Danish Meteorological Inst., Copenhagen (Denmark)
SO: DMI-CLIMATOL.-PAP. 1982. 228 pp
IS: ISBN: 87-7478-197-9
NT: NTIS Order No. N82-27947/2.
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: Standard observations carried out in the waters around Denmark are presented as monthly tables. Data include highest wave heights, cumulative percentage frequency of wave heights, and means of wave heights at different wind directions and forces. Current velocities with annual and monthly vector means are given as are highest monthly recorded current velocities.
DE: wave-height; wind-direction; current-velocity; ANE,-Denmark
ID: data-collections
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0412975

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    120 of 508
TI: Correlation measurements of surface-reflected underwater acoustic signals at several sea states.
AU: Olson,-J.R.; Nichols,-R.H.
AF: Dep. Phys. & Astron., Univ. Denver, Denver, CO 80208, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1982. vol. 71, no. 6, pp. 1453-1457
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A coherent wavefront which strikes the rough and moving surface of the ocean is expected to suffer some degree of decorrelation. Two exploratory experiments were performed to investigate the effect of sea state on decorrelation for acoustical wavelengths of the order of the ocean wave heights and signal durations comparable to the ocean periods. In the first, the signal was reflected once from the surface at a grazing angle of 31 degree  and received on two bottomed omnidirectional hydrophones space 500 ft apart, approximately broadside to the sound path. Cross-correlation coefficients for the last 5 s of each pulse were measured at several sea states. In the second experiment, the output of one hydrophone was cross correlated with a replica of the pseudo-random signal which drove the sound source.
DE: sea-state; surface-roughness; sound-reflection; sound-scattering; underwater-sounds
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0391120

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    121 of 508
TI: Deep-ocean system to measure tsunami wave-height.
AU: Saxena,-N.; Zielinski,-A.
AF: Univ. Hawaii, Honolulu, HI 96822, USA
SO: MAR.-GEOD. 1981. vol. 5, no. 1, pp. 55-62
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The problem of detecting tsunamis and measuring their wave-height in the deep ocean has been investigated theoretically by Saxena (1974, 1975, 1976, 1978). This paper is a continuation of the earlier investigations and describes a system for measuring tsunami wave-heights in the deep ocean. This cableless system uses pressure sensors, a two-way digital acoustic telemetry system buoy, and a stationary satellite. The measured tsunami wave-height and its direction of propagation will be an added parameter to the existing tsunami warning system, which will improve the reliability of tsunami warnings.
DE: wave-height; tsunamis-; warning-systems; data-buoys; monitoring-instruments
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Tides,-surges-and-sea-level-2167; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Warning-services-against-catastrophes-2392
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0357190

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    122 of 508
TI: NHL-Ocean Laboratory Engineering and Construction of Building and Sub-Systems.
AU: Eggestad,-I.
AF: Norwegian Hydrodynamic Lab., Trondheim, Norway
CO: International Symposium on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: INTERNATIONAL-SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PREPRINTS. 1981. vol. 2, pp. 1145-1170
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The main parts of the ocean basin installations are described generally. First some special features of the building structure and architecture are outlined, whereafter a somewhat more detailed explanation is given of the operation of the adjustable steel bottom and the water current system. Emphasis is also given to the wave making installation. A double flap wave maker is 48.6 m long, for generating heavy longcrested regular and irregular waves, with significant wave heights of about 0.6 m. A 114-element wave marker in right angle to the former, 62.5 m long is capable of generating inclined regular waves and directional wave spectra for significant wave heights about 0.25 m. Also the water treatment and special routines for oil clean-up tests are shortly described. Finally the interlocking system is mentioned.
DE: wave-tanks; test-facilities; construction-; research-organizations; wave-generators; Norway,-Trondheim
ID: hydrodynamics-; NHL-Ocean-Basin
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0346514

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    123 of 508
TI: Wave Grouping Studied by Means of Correlation Techniques.
AU: Rye,-H.; Lervik,-E.
AF: Norwegian Hydrodynamic Lab., Trondheim, Norway
CO: International Symposium on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: INTERNATIONAL-SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PREPRINTS. 1981. vol. 1, pp. 25-48
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The possibility of studying wave groups by means of the correlation function of the sea surface is considered. The statistical uncertainties involved when this function is estimated from recordings of finite length are considerable. The paper considers how the correlation coefficient depends on the spectral shape and on the length of the recording. Numerical simulation results are compared with field data. The correlation between succeeding wave heights can be properly described provided that the power spectral shape is known and that the spectral resolution in the frequency plane is sufficiently small. Simulation studies indicate that the spectral resolution should be of order 1-2% of the peak frequency. All simulations are based on the JONSWAP spectral shape. A brief description of this spectrum is given in the paper.
DE: wave-spectra; JONSWAP-; wave-height
ID: correlation-analysis; statistical-analysis; simulation-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0346455

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    124 of 508
TI: Estimating Directional Return Values of Wave Height from the NORSWAM Data Set.
AU: Carter,-D.J.T.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, UK
CO: International Symposium on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: INTERNATIONAL-SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PREPRINTS. 1981. vol. 1, pp. 90-100
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The NORSWAM data set consists of wind and wave data at grid points in the North Sea and the adjacent part of the Atlantic Ocean, covering 42 storms which occurred in the North Sea during the period 1966-1976. The maximum significant wave heights associated with winds from each octant of the compass obtained during each storm are used to derive estimates of directional return values at grid points in the northern North Sea. The selection of the NORSWAM storms was based upon the meteorological conditions affecting the North Sea in general, and not upon conditions at any specific grid point; consequently the total number of storms at each grid point is not known. To overcome this problem a truncated Fisher-Trippett Type I extreme value distribution is used to fit to the maxima. Omni-directional return values are obtained by combinig the directional distributions of maximum wave height. These values are compared with estimates by others, and are found to be generally higher - in particular at some grid points south of 59 degree N.
DE: wave-height; storms-; wind-waves; NORSWAM-; wind-data; Ane,-North-Sea
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0345590

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    125 of 508
TI: Joint Probabilities for Wave Heights and Other Wave Characteristics Occurring Simultaneously.
AU: Borgman,-L.E.
AF: Dep. Geol. Statistics, Univ. Wyoming, USA
CO: International Symposium on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: INTERNATIONAL-SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PREPRINTS. 1981. vol. 1, pp. 1-24
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The choice of a design wave height usually does not completely characterize ocean conditions for the design engineer. Associated properties such as wave period and direction of travel need to be selected also. The mathematics for the joint probabilites of the extreme of one random variable and the values for other simultaneously occurring variables are developed as they relate to the joint probability laws for the basic population of variables. Recent study of the joint probability laws for wave height period and travel direction are presented.
DE: wave-height; probability-theory; design-wave; wave-period; wave-propagation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0344611

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    126 of 508
TI: Intercomparison of the Offshore Wave Measurements During ARSLOE.
AU: Szabados,-M.W.
AF: Marine Environ. Serv. Div., NOAA/Natl. Ocean Survey, Rockville, MD 20852, USA
CO: Oceans 82 Conference, Washington, DC (USA), 20 Sep 1982
SO: OCEANS-82-CONFERENCE-RECORD:-INDUSTRY,-GOVERNMENT,-EDUCATION-PARTNERS-IN-PROGRESS-WASHINGTON,-D.C.,-SEPTEMBER-20-22,-1982. 1982. pp. 876-881
ST: OCEANS-'-82.
RN: IEEE-82CH1827-5 (IEEE82CH18275)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Preliminary results of an intercomparison between several wave measurement systems used during the ARSLOE experiment are presented. The comparison consists of some of the measurements in the offshore region, 12 km to 40 km offshore, taken during a storm that occurred October 23 to 26, 1980. The results indicate that differences in significant wave heights can be larger than the random variability.
DE: wave-data; wave-measurement; calibration-; significant-wave-height; North-Carolina-Coast; ANW,-USA,-North-Carolina
ID: ARSLOE-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0316486

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    127 of 508
TI: Wave-Track  super(TM) and Waverider) Heave Buoy Intercomparison at the Entrance to the Columbia River.
AU: Brainard,-E.C.,II; Gardner,-D.L.
AF: Endeco, Inc., Marion, MA 02738, USA
CO: Oceans 82 Conference, Washington, DC (USA), 20 Sep 1982
SO: OCEANS-82-CONFERENCE-RECORD:-INDUSTRY,-GOVERNMENT,-EDUCATION-PARTNERS-IN-PROGRESS-WASHINGTON,-D.C.,-SEPTEMBER-20-22,-1982. 1982. pp. 861-866
ST: OCEANS-'-82.
RN: IEEE-82CH1827-5 (IEEE82CH18275)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A Type 949 Heave Wave-Track Buoy and a Waverider 6000 Series Buoy were moored at approximately 7.0 miles west of the Columbia River entrance off Astoria, Oregon from December 19, 1979 to January 5, 1980 in approximately 200 feet depth. Wave statistics derived from a zero-upcrossing analysis and energy spectra are compared. Wave period measurements compared closely, while wave height measurements differed by 7.5% for significant wave heights ranging from 2.2-4.6 m (7.5-15.2 ft) and maximum wave heights exceeded 8.5 m (28 ft). Energy spectra for the Wave-Track Buoy fell within the 90% confidence limits of the Waverider Buoy spectra.
DE: data-buoys; wave-measurement; wave-data; wave-period; wave-height; wave-spectra; wave-recorders; Oregon-Coast; Columbia-River; INE,-USA,-Oregon,-Columbia-R.-Entrance
ID: Wave-Track-superTM; Waverider-superR
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Buoys-and-buoy-systems-2303
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 0316338

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    128 of 508
TI: A Case Study of Wave Height Variations Due to Currents in a Tidal Entrance.
AU: Battjes,-J.A.
AF: Delft Univ. of Technol., Dep. of Civil Eng., Delft, Netherlands
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1982. vol. 6, no. 1, pp. 47-57
IS: ISSN: 0378-3839
NT: 2 tables, 5 figures.
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A case study is presented of the effects of tidal currents on the wave heights in a tidal entrance, viz. the Oosterschelde estuary in the Netherlands. Observations of the variation of wave height with tidal elevation during a tidal cycle show a hysteresis. In order to investigate this phenomenon, calculations have been made of wave height changes due to refraction by non-uniform depths and currents, including the occurrence of wave breaking on the shoals in the esturay delta. The calculated wave height variation with tide elevation is found to have a current-induced hysteresis similar to the observed one.
DE: wave-height; water-currents; tidal-range; wave-refraction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0286251

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    129 of 508
TI: A Distribution Function for Wind Space Wave Heights With Parameter of Wave Growth Stage.
AU: Huang,-P.; Zhao,-B.; Liu,-L.; Pu,-S.
AF: First Inst. Oceanogr., Natl. Bur. Oceanogr., Qingdao, China
SO: ACTA-OCEANOL.-SIN. 1981. vol. 3, no. 4, pp. 639-654
PY: 1981
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In the paper, a distribution function for wind wave heights is empirically presented. It involves, in addtition to a shallowness factor, the parameter describing the stage of wind wave growth. Some diagrams facilitating the use of the distribution are also given. Comparison between the distribution proposed in the paper and some other existing ones are made by using field data. It is found that the distribution established here is in better agreement with the observations than Rayleigh and Glukovsky distributions.
DE: wind-waves; wave-height; wind-wave-generation
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0285971

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    130 of 508
TI: Determination of Joint Distribution Function of Wave Periods and Heights of the Shallow Sea.
AU: Xiujie,-W.; Hongmei,-G.; Binglai,-Z.; Quanhui,-G.
AF: First Inst. Oceanogr. Natl. Bur. Oceanogr., Qingdao, China
SO: ACTA-OCEANOL.-SIN. 1981. vol. 3, no. 4, pp.  517-522
PY: 1981
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Based on the theory of probability, an analytical-function of the joint distribution of wave periods and heights of the shallow sea is empirically established by using continuous wave records of the shallow sea and some experimental data obtained from wave channel. For the convenience of use relevant diagrams are constructed in this paper. The results are satisfactory and in reasonable agreement with some of the observed records and the data used by engineers.
DE: wave-period; wave-height; shallow-water-waves
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0277761

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    131 of 508
TI: The First ESA Remote Sensing Satellite (ERS) - the Programme and the System.
AU: Duchossois,-G.; Honvault,-C.
AF: European Space Agency (ESA), Directorate Application Programmes, France
CO: Oceans 81 Conference, Boston, MA (USA), 16 Sep 1981
SO: THE-OCEAN-AN-INTERNATIONAL-WORKPLACE.-OCEANS-81-CONFERENCE-RECORD-BOSTON,-MASSACHUSETTS,-SEPTEMBER-16-18,-1981. 1981. vol. 2, pp. 1014-1018
ST: OCEANS-'-81.
RN: IEEE-81CH1685-7 (IEEE81CH16857)
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The European Space Agency is preparing the development of the first ESA Remote Sensing Satellite (ERS) System. The first mission is oriented towards ice and ocean monitoring and the main mission objectives are of both scientific and economic nature: (i) to increase the scientific understanding fo coastal zones and ocean processes; and (ii) to develop and promote economic applications related to a better knowledge of ocean parameters and sea state conditions. The payload of ERS-1 is composed of : (i) an Active Microwave Instrumentation  (AMI) combining the functions of a synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR), a wave Scatterometer and a Wind Scatterometer, primarily for the measurement of wind fields and wave spectra and for all-weather imaging; (ii) a Radar Altimeter  (RA), primarily for the measurement of significant wave heights; and (iii) an Ocean Colour Monitor  (OCM), primarily for the measurement of sea surface temperature and ocean colour. The above payload will be assembled with an existing platform which is being developed in the framework of the French Remote Sensing Programme and will be launched by ARIANE 2 (or 3) in 1987 on a sunsynchronous orbit at 675 km.
DE: remote-sensing; satellites-; ESA/ERS-; dynamical-oceanography; sea-ice; sea-state; microwave-imagery; radar-altimetry; scatterometers-; water-color; sea-surface-temperature
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393; Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2142
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0269863

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    132 of 508
TI: Establishment and Running of the Environmental Forecasting Centre for Drilling Operations.
AU: Srivastava,-P.S.
AF: Engineers India Ltd., New Delhi 110 001, India
CO: Oceans 81 Conference, Boston, MA (USA), 16 Sep 1981
SO: THE-OCEAN-AN-INTERNATIONAL-WORKPLACE.-OCEANS-81-CONFERENCE-RECORD-BOSTON,-MASSACHUSETTS,-SEPTEMBER-16-18,-1981. 1981. vol. 2, pp. 925-929
ST: OCEANS-'-81.
RN: IEEE-81CH1685-7 (IEEE81CH16857)
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Various aspects of offshore drilling operations, their dependence on oceanographical/meteorological parameters, and how reliable forecast of these parameters could save millions of dollars for the oil industry, have been discussed. A comparative study of the forecast parameters with the recorded data has been made. For a greater portion of the time, pressure, wind speeds, wave heights and wave periods lie within  plus or minus  1 mb,  plus or minus  2 km/h,  plus or minus  0.3 m and  plus or minus  1 s; respectively. Forecast wind and wave directions tally with the recorded data for > 95% of the time. Monthly correlation coefficients and average percentage of deviations between the forecast and ship reported wind speeds, significant wave heights, and significant wave periods, have been determined.
DE: weather-forecasting; offshore-drilling; wind-speed; wave-forecasting; oil-and-gas-exploration; India-Coast; ISW,-India
CL: Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Observations-and-measurements-at-sea-2242; Resources:-Oil-and-gas-2405; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
AN: 0269157

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    133 of 508
TI: A Comparison of Hindcast and Recorded Wave Data.
AU: Baird,-W.F.; Readshaw,-J.S.
AF: W.F. Baird & Assoc., Coastal Eng. Ltd., Ottawa, Ont. Canada
CA: Dep. of Fish. and Oceans, Ottawa, Ont. (Canada). Mar. Environ. Data Serv.
SO: MAR.-ENVIRON.-DATA-SERV.-CONTRACT.-REP. 1981. no. 1, 87 pp
NT: Incl. graphical data.
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: B (Book); N (Numerical-Data)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A comparison is made of hindcast and recorded wave data for the east coast of Canada. Wave heights and periods as measured by Waverider buoys are compared to hindcast waves produced by the U.S. Corps of Engineers spectral model developed by D. T. Resio. The performance of the model for individual storms is discussed, and recommendations for further comparison work are presented.
DE: wave-climate; oceanographic-data; wave-forecasting; analytical-techniques; data-buoys; wave-recorders; wind-waves; storm-surges; wave-period; wave-forces; offshore-structures; ANW,-Canada
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0268019

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    134 of 508
TI: Crestal Overtop and Washover Sedimentation on a Fringing Sandy Gravel Barrier Coast, Carnsore Point, Southeast Ireland.
AU: Orford,-J.D.; Carter,-R.W.G.
AF: Dep. Geogr., Queen's Univ. Belfast, Belfast BT7 1NN, Northern Ireland, UK
SO: J.-SEDIMENT.-PETROL. 1982. vol. 52, no. 1, pp. 265-278
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Storm sedimentation on a fringing, sandy gravel barrier system in southeast Ireland is examined. Recent wave overtopping and overwashing during severe onshore storms have resulted in a distinctive pattern of crest and backbarrier sedimentation. This is not easily matched with available models of washover sedimentation drawn from the barrier islands of the eastern United States. Beach crest overtopping occurs at heights up to +6 m MHWS and is related to the development of upper beach swash ramps that are plastered against storm-wave-eroded dune scarps located at the barrier crest. Ramp sediments comprise coarse basal beach gravels overlain by coarsening-upward units and finally topped by distinctive seaward-dipping fine grit/coarse sand couplets. In places where ramps reach the dune crest, overtopping swash has deposited a fine marine gravel veneer (< 0.5 m), thus raising the overall barrier height during severe storms. Depositional washover activity is observed, however, at both the beach crest in the form of breach or throat plug sedimentation, as well as on the backbarrier in the form of washover fans and splays.
DE: sedimentation-; storms-; overwash-; gravel-; overtopping-; barrier-islands; beaches-; Ireland-Coast; ANE,-Eire
ID: Irish-Sea
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0264536

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    135 of 508
TI: Deep-Ocean System to Measure Tsunami Wave-Height.
AU: Saxena,-N.; Zielinski,-A.
AF: Univ. Hawaii, Honolulu, HI 96822, USA
SO: MAR.-GEOD. 1981. vol. 5, no. 1, pp. 55-62
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The problem of detecting tsunamis and measuring their wave-height in the deep ocean has been investigated theoretically by Saxena (1974, 1975, 1976, 1978). This paper is a continuation of the earlier investigations and describes a system for measuring tsunami wave-heights in the deep ocean. This cableless system uses pressure sensors, a two-way digital acoustic telemetry system buoy, and a stationary satellite. The measured tsunami wave-height and its direction of propagation will be an added parameter to the existing tsunami warning system, which will improve the reliability of tsunami warnings.
DE: tsunamis-; wave-height; wave-measurement; pressure-sensors; acoustic-telemetry; warning-systems
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Tides,-surges-and-sea-level-2167; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Warning-services-against-catastrophes-2392
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0260097

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    136 of 508
TI: Ocean Wave Height Measurement With SEASAT SAR Using Speckle Diversity.
AU: Jain,-A.; Medlin,-G.; Wu,-C.
AF: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, CA 91109, USA
SO: IEEE-J.-OCEANIC-ENG. 1982. vol. OE-7, no. 2, pp. 103-107
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurement of ocean wave heights with the synthetic aperture radar can be accomplished with high spatial resolution by determining the variation of speckle intensity with the frequency and angle of illumination. A comparison of data obtained by the SEASAT SAR with surface truth measurements obtained during the GOASEX and the JASIN experiments demonstrates this concept.
DE: wave-height; remote-sensing; radar-; satellite-sensing; satellite-data; ocean-surveying; oceanographic-surveys
ID: synthetic-aperture-radar; SEASAT-
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0249212

                                ASFA 1978 - 1987                    137 of 508
TI: Analysis of 