
                                                                     28 of 380
TI: Wave transformation on a coral reef
AU: Gourlay,-M.R.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Queensland, Brisbane, Qld. 4072, Australia
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1994 vol. 23, no. 1-2, pp. 17-42
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave transformation of regular waves was measured in a laboratory model of a fringing reef with a steep face and an outer reef-top slope gradually decreasing in the landward direction. Data was obtained for various wave conditions and water levels. A nonlinearity parameter, F sub(co) = g super(1.25)H sub(o) super(0.5)T super(2.5)/h sub(e) super(1.75), based upon one proposed by Swart and Loubser (1979), is proposed as a suitable parameter for classifying wave transformation regimes on this reef. In particular, when F sub(co) > 150, waves plunge on the reef edge and the amount of wave energy reaching a shore or structure is small (<16%). When F sub(co)  less than or equal to  100, waves spill on the reef-top but the greater part of their energy is transmitted over the reef-top. The maximum values of the wave height to water depth ratio on the reef-top were found to be consistent with Nelson's analyses for laboratory and field data which indicate that the maximum stable wave height to depth ratio H/d on a horizontal bottom never exceeds 0.55 for shallow water waves (F sub(c) > 500). The experimental data confirms that the maximum value of H/d decreases when F sub(c) decreases but that it also increases when the bottom slope increases.
DE: coral-reefs; wave-properties; breaking-waves; energy-dissipation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9420735
AN: 3645548
UD: 9503

                                                                     29 of 380
TI: Bubbles in the near-surface ocean: Their various structures
AU: Wu,-Jin
AF: Air-Sea Interaction Lab., Grad. Coll. Mar. Stud., Univ. Delaware, Lewes, DE 19958, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1994 vol. 24, no. 9, pp. 1955-1965
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Air is entrained by breaking waves to produce bubbles. A highly transient macrobubble cloud is first generated under the breaker, with larger bubbles returning sooner to the sea surface. Those remaining smaller bubbles are then dispersed by near-surface turbulent shear flows in a shallow layer immediately below the undulating sea surface. Bubbles in this layer are shown to be nearly suspended; moreover, vertical distributions of current velocity and bubble concentration within this layer are found to be similar. Both of these features are used to demonstrate that the observed bubble layer, being on the order of 1 m thick, is formed through the longitudinal dispersion process. In addition, isolated microbubble plumes that penetrate several times deeper than the bubble layer appear to be produced also by breaking waves; however, in this case breaking waves temporarily deflect the bubble layer.
DE: surface-water; bubbles-; breaking-waves; mixing-processes
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9422529
AN: 3645129
UD: 9503

                                                                     30 of 380
TI: Breaking wave impact on vertical and sloping coastal structures
AU: Kirkgoez,-M.S.
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Cukurova Univ., 01330 Adana, Turkey
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1995 vol. 22, no. 1, pp. 35-48
IS: ISSN 0029-8018
PY: 1995
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The results of laboratory experiments on the maximum and bottom impact pressures from waves breaking directly on vertical and sloping faced coastal structures are presented. Direct wave breaking on a wall is classified as early, late, and perfect breaking. Although the present study is aimed at dealing with the type of impact resulting from the perfect breaking, to some extent the occurrence of early and late breaking are unavoidable. The wave impact pressures, therefore, have a random nature of variation from impact-to-impact under the same conditions. The maximum and bottom impact pressures on walls are treated statistically. The effects of the wall angle and foreshore slope on these two quantities are examined. The results show that for practical applications, the still-water level can be taken as the acting place for the maximum impact pressure on the wall. Simultaneous impact pressure distribution below and above still-water level may be approximated as parabolic and linear, respectively. Finally, using a wall deflection criterion, a water depth region in front of the wall is defined, where the breaking wave forces may reach a critical level.
DE: hydraulics-; laboratories-; waves-; breakwaters-; coastal-engineering; pressure-distribution; wave-height; breaking-waves; wave-effects; wave-forces; wave-induced-loading
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9420495
AN: 3644943

                                                                     31 of 380
TI: Tidal and atmospheric forcing of the upper ocean in the Gulf of California 1. Sea surface temperature variability
AU: Paden,-C.A.; Abbott,-M.R.; Winant,-C.D.
AF: Coll. Oceanogr., Oregon State Univ., Corvallis, OR 97331, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS 1991 vol. 96, no. 10, pp. 18337-18359
IS: ISSN 0148-0227
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Two years of satellite infrared imagery (1984-1986) are used to examine the sea surface temperature (SST) variability in the northern Gulf of California. Empirical orthogonal functions (EOFs) of the temporal and spatial SST variance for 20 monthly mean images show that the dominant SST patterns are generated by spatially varying tidal mixing in the presence of seasonal heating and cooling. These patterns are modified in the fall and winter when shelf temperatures south of Tiburon Island cool in response to upwelling-favorable winds. These same winds bring cold, dry air from off the continental United States, causing local cooling of the shallow northern shelf. During the rest of the year, the broad, shallow shelves are warmer than offshore. The seasonally reversing temperature patterns are consistent with recent hydrographic observations which show a cyclonic surface circulation in the summer and a weaker anticyclonic circulation during the rest of the year. Atmospheric forcing of the northern gulf appears to occur over large spatial scales. Area-averaged SSTs for the Guaymas Basin, island region, and northern basin show significant fluctuations which are highly correlated. These fluctuations in SST correspond to similar fluctuations in the air temperature which are related to synoptic weather events over the gulf. During periods of particularly low wind speeds, the air temperature over the gulf increases dramatically. By afternoon, intense heating of the sea surface results in the appearance of warm SST anomalies in the satellite data. These SSTs are approximately 2 degree C warmer than surrounding SSTs and most likely occur as a result of a spatially varying wind field. A regression analysis of the SST relative to the fortnightly tidal range shows that tidal mixing occurs over the sills in the island region as well as on the shallow northern shelf. Mixing over the sills, however, occurs as a result of large breaking internal waves or internal hydraulic jumps which mix water over the upper 300-500 m. This mixing pumps heat away from the surface, deep into the water column, thereby maintaining the cool SSTs. Since mixing occurs over greater depths in the island region, the temperatures there are much colder than those generated by tidal mixing on the shallow shelves, resulting in the persistent pool of cool water evident in the satellite data. This cooler water is mixed horizontally by the basin-scale circulation, lowering the SSTs over much of the northern gulf. These reduced SSTs have a large impact on the surface heat flux by lowering the saturation vapor pressure of the air. As a result, the amount of heat lost to the atmosphere through the latent or evaporative heat flux is reduced. This may explain why the Gulf of California gains heat on an annual average rather than losing heat as occurs in the Mediterranean and Red seas where tidal mixing is not significant.
DE: atmospheric-forcing; upper-ocean; ISE,-Mexico,-California-Gulf; surface-temperature; variability-; tidal-effects; satellite-sensing; air-temperature; upwelling-; heat-exchange
CL: Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-TSD-distribution,-water-masses-and-circulation-2146
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southeast (ISE)
IC: CS9420275
AN: 3644909

                                                                     32 of 380
TI: Design for entrance channel navigation improvements, Morro Bay Harbor, Morro Bay, California
AU: Bottin,-R.R.
CA: Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: 1993 143 pp
RN: CERC-TR-93-2 (CERCTR932)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A 1:90 scale, three-dimensional hydraulic model was used to investigate the design of proposed entrance channel depth modifications at Morro Bay Harbor, California, with respect to navigation conditions. The impact that the proposed depth changes may have on wave conditions at the existing structures and the spit between the south structures also was addressed, and sediment tracer patterns ere obtained in the entrance. The model reproduced the harbor entrance, approximately 7,000 ft of the California shoreline, and offshore bathymetry in the Pacific Ocean to a depth of 60 ft mean lower low water (mllw). A 60-ft-long unidirectional, spectral wave generator, an automated data acquisition system, and crushed coal tracer material were utilized in model operation. It was concluded from results that: (a) For the existing harbor entrance, operational waves (8 to 16 ft in height) from the predominant 275 deg direction resulted in hazardous entrance navigation conditions due to wave steepening and/or breaking. (b) For the originally proposed improvement plan (Plan 1), navigation conditions in the entrance were improved for operational waves from 275 deg; however, the plan resulted in significantly increased wave heights which may cause damage to the head of the south breakwater during extreme wave conditions (waves ranging from 21 to 30 ft in height).
DE: INE,-USA,-California,-Morro-Bay; coastal-engineering; harbors-; hydraulic-models; navigational-channels; dredging-
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
IC: NO9402999
AN: 3641853

                                                                     33 of 380
TI: Vortex pair model of Langmuir circulation
AU: Csanady,-G.T.
AF: Cent. Coast. Phys. Oceanogr., Old Dominion Univ., Norfolk, VA, 23529, USA
SO: J.-MAR.-RES. 1994 vol. 52, no. 4, pp. 559-581
IS: ISSN 0022-2402
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Accumulating evidence shows spacing and length of surface convergences associated with Langmuir circulation to be random variables, their strength also variable, their lifetime limited. Analysis of several sets of quantitative observations reveals the probability distribution of windrow spacing to the lognormal. This suggests generation of surface convergences at random times and locations on the sea surface. Moving shear stress anomalies, under wind gusts or breaking long waves, are capable of generating surface convergence in their wakes, and are the type of random event likely responsible for the stochastic properties of windrows. The generation mechanism envisaged is a "forced" version of the Craik-Leibovich "CL2" theory, Stokes drift tilting the vertical vortex lines at the edges of stress anomalies. This contrasts with the feedback mechanism of the CL2 theory operating on infinitesimal spanwise disturbances. Realistic shear stress anomalies produce vortex pairs strong enough to account for Langmuir circulation without feedback amplification. A vortex pair just under the sea surface induces motion bringing the vortices together at first, and then causing them to dive deep into the mixed layer. This inviscid kinematic effect limits the surface presence of convergences, and accounts for the finite lifetime of windrows without even taking into account viscous decay. Converging motion at the surface, and low eddy viscosity, combine to channel the downward momentum transfer from the air flow into descending branches of the Langmuir circulation. One result is the increase of windward surface velocity in the convergences.
DE: Langmuir-circulation; shear-stress; wind-stress; vortices-; surface-mixed-layer; modelling-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9420008
AN: 3640660

                                                                     34 of 380
TI: Surface waves and coastal dynamics
AU: Mei,-Chiang-C.; Liu,-P.L.-F.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., MIT, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
SO: ANNU.-REV.-FLUID-MECH. 1993 vol. 25, pp. 215-240
IS: ISSN 0066-4189
PY: 1993
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Unlike in the open sea, water motion in the coastal region is distinguished by the vital role of the solid boundaries. If surface waves are generated by distant storms, they must first propagate across the continental shelf towards the coast. Upon entering shoaling waters, they are either refracted by varying depth or current, or diffracted around abrupt bathymetric features such as submarine ridges or valleys, losing part of their energy back to the deep sea. Waves continuing their shoreward march give up some energy by dissipation near the bottom. Nevertheless each crest becomes steeper and mightier, and makes its final display of power by breaking and splashing on the shoreline, and sending countless sand particles afloat.
DE: wave-action; coastal-waters; boundaries-; refraction-; hydrodynamics-; coastal-engineering; surface-water-waves
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9419919
AN: 3639827

                                                                     35 of 380
TI: Wave breaking in deep water
AU: Banner,-M.L.; Peregrine,-D.H.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. New South Wales, P.O. Box 1, Kensington, N.S.W. 2033, Australia
SO: ANNU.-REV.-FLUID-MECH. 1993 vol. 25, pp. 373-397
IS: ISSN 0066-4189
PY: 1993
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: Every mariner is aware that dangerous large breaking water waves occur on the world's oceans. The scope of this review is somewhat greater. Wave breaking occurs at a large range of scales and we do not restrict ourselves to the deep ocean. "Deep water" in the context of water wave studies implies water sufficiently deep that the surface waves are unaffected by the direct effects of variations in bed topography. Thus even a after small pond can support breaking deep-water waves.
DE: waves-; wave-action; water-depth; breakers-; boats-; deep-water-waves; wave-breaking; hydrodynamics-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9419917
AN: 3639825

                                                                     36 of 380
TI: Internal gravity waves at abrupt topography. ARI: Flow over abrupt topography
AU: Miller,-P.
CA: Hawaii Univ. Manoa, Honolulu (USA). Dep. of Oceanography
SO: 1990 4 pp
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: Research goals of this study include: Identification and modeling of the dynamical processes that determine the oceanic internal gravity wave spectrum, its evolution, and its variability; and Understanding the role that internal waves play in the redistribution and mixing of momentum, potential vorticity, heat and salt. Objectives were: Identification and modeling of the effects that irregular ocean bottom topography exerts on internal gravity waves; Determining the significance of these effects by comparison with other known processes; Testing the idea that reflection and scattering of internal gravity waves at bottom topography and the subsequent (nonlinear) adjustments enhance wave breaking and mixing near topography. Tasks completed were: Derivation of the scattering integral in the limit that (i) the height of the topography is smaller than the internal wave vertical wavelength; and (ii) the slope of the topography is smaller than the slope of the internal wave characteristic.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; gravity-waves; bottom-topography-effects; modelling-; internal-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9402509
AN: 3636364

                                                                     37 of 380
TI: A line in the sea
AU: Yoder,-J.A.; Ackleson,-S.G.; Barber,-R.T.; Flament,-P.; Balch,-W.M.
AF: Grad. Sch. Oceanogr., Univ. Rhode Island, South Ferry Rd., Narragansett, RI 02882, USA
SO: NATURE 1994 vol. 371, no. 6499, pp. 689-692
IS: ISSN 0028-0836
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The ocean has considerable spatial and temporal heterogeneity in biomass and productivity owing in part to the effects of ocean circulation and mixing. Water mass boundaries (fronts) in coastal waters are well-known sites of enhanced biological activity. Comparatively little is known of open-ocean fronts, and one of the few biological studies of an oceanic front showed phytoplankton biomass at only slightly higher densities than in surrounding waters. Here we present photographs and measurements from satellites, aircraft, ships and the Space Shuttle Atlantis which show dramatic biological responses to circulation and mixing processes associated with an open-ocean front. Breaking waves (whitecaps) caused by water turbulence and mixing, and very dark green water caused by extremely high concentrations (> 20 mg of chlorophyll a per m super(3)) of buoyant diatoms (Rhizosolenia sp.) made a distinct line in the sea visible for hundreds of kilometres. The line traced the northern edge of a westward-progagating (50 km per day) tropical instability wave (1,000-km wavelength) delineating the boundary between cold, upwelled waters and warmer waters to the north. High phytoplankton biomass and primary production associated with the extensive diatom patches may explain anecdotal observations of high animal abundance along this frontal boundary.
DE: oceans-; phytoplankton-; waves-; chlorophyll-a; diatoms-; Rhizosolenia-; water-temperature; water-mixing; marine-ecosystems; Pacific-Ocean; oceanic-fronts; biomass-; primary-production
CL: Aquatic-Communities:-Plankton-1461
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
IC: CS9420071
AN: 3632473

                                                                     38 of 380
TI: Wave group evolution, wave deformation, and breaking: Simulations using LONGTANK, a numerical wave tank
AU: Wang,-Pei; Yao,-Yitao; Tulin,-M.P.
AF: Ocean Eng. Lab., Univ. California, Santa Barbara, CA 93106, USA
SO: INT.-J.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG. 1994 vol. 4, no. 3, pp. 200-205
IS: ISSN 1053-5381
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Non-linear, planar wave trains have been simulated numerically using an efficient computational method. This method utilizes matrix diagonalization, based on multi-subdomains. The waves are created by a wavemaker at one end and followed to downtank distances, x/ lambda  of O(10 super(2)). High resolution of wave shapes has been obtained. This numerical tank, LONGTANK, has been used to study non-linear sideband growth, strong group evolution, wave deformation, energy redistribution in the deformed waves, and jet formation (breaking). Comparisons of steepness at breaking and distance to breaking, as they depend on wave steepness, have been made, with excellent agreement. Similar agreement is shown between simulated and photographed wave shapes in the final stages of breaking. A criterion for the onset of breaking is suggested by the simulations.
DE: wave-groups; wave-tanks; deformation-; wave-breaking; simulation-; numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9418248
AN: 3632263

                                                                     39 of 380
TI: Performance of a horizontally scanning Doppler sonar near shore
AU: Smith,-J.A.
AF: Mar. Phys. Lab., Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., La Jolla, CA 92093-0213, USA
SO: J.-ATMOS.-OCEAN.-TECHNOL. 1993 vol. 10, no. 5, pp. 752-762
IS: ISSN 0739-0572
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In August 1990, tests were performed to investigate the usefulness of a horizontally scanning Doppler acoustic technique in shallow water. Comparisons of radial velocity estimates from a vertical fan beam versus a horizontally aimed pencil beam indicate no degradation attributable to multiple reflections from the surface and bottom. Further tests, in which ping-to-ping phase-coherent means are examined, indicate negligible stationary backscatter from the bottom. Tests in which the acoustic beams were directed shoreward indicate that an extremely dense bubble cloud formed by plunging breakers produces an impenetrable "wall" at the breakpoint, at acoustic frequencies near 195 kHz. Useful velocity estimates (one component) are obtainable everywhere seaward of the breakpoint of the incoming surf. The spatially extensive velocity estimates offered by the technique provide enormous potential for the study of horizontal currents and wave-current interactions in shallow water.
DE: coastal-oceanography; seafloor-mapping; acoustic-equipment; Doppler-sonar; bubbles-; breaking-waves; wave-current-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9418548
AN: 3624774

                                                                     40 of 380
TI: Breaking waves in laboratory-generated JONSWAP seas
AU: Dawson,-T.H.; Kriebel,-D.L.; Wallendorf,-L.A.
AF: U.S. Nav. Acad., Annapolis, MD 21402, USA
SO: APPL.-OCEAN-RES. 1993 vol. 15, no. 2, pp. 85-93
IS: ISSN 0141-1187
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Results from a laboratory study of wave breaking in deep-water random seas are presented for approximate JONSWAP sea states. Waves generated at one end of a 116-meter wave tank are observed for breaking at a section of the tank approximately 30 meters from the wavemaker and in regions spanning three and six meters about the section. Emphasis is on the relative number of breaking waves observed at the section and in the regions about it, and on the relative number of crest amplitudes exceeding specified levels at the section. Measurements at the section are shown to be in good agreement with predictions formed using idealized assumptions about the breaking waves and a modified Rayleigh distribution of crest amplitudes that accounts approximately for nonlinear effects in seas with narrow-banded wave frequencies. Results indicate that the average downward crest acceleration of breaking waves in these sea states is equal approximately to one-third the acceleration of gravity. Experimental measurements of breaking in regions about the section are shown to be in good agreement with theoretical predictions relating breaking events over a region to those at a fixed location.
DE: breaking-waves; experimental-research; sea-state; wave-tanks
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9418217
AN: 3622511

                                                                     41 of 380
TI: Ocypode burrows as predictors of ancient shoreline position: New findings from a barred tidal flat
AU: Chakrabarti,-A.
AF: Dep. Geol. and Geophys., IIT, Kharagpur 721 302, India
SO: INDIAN-J.-GEOL. 1993 vol. 65, no. 1, pp. 15-24
IS: ISSN 0970-1354
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Study of ghost crab burrows on a barred tidal flat reveals that the zone of activity of ocypoid crabs also extends seaward to the intertidal bar region and that burrow orientation changes with subenvironment. Close to the high water line, the crab burrows have a preferred landward inclination, whereas in the intertidal sand bars, a random pattern, similar to that observed in calm sheltered beaches, is evident. Burrow orientation may be influenced by the direction of wave approach and magnitude of ground vibration generated by breaking waves. Contrary to previous conclusions, burrow orientation is governed neither by prevailing wind nor shoreline trend. Thus, burrow patterns of Psilonichnus upsilon cannot be used solely for recognition of palaeoshoreline trends. Sediments registering preferred orientation of crab burrows, as well as low angle cross-stratification with wedge-shaped lamina sets, can be regarded as upper foreshore deposits of a high energy beach environment. Similarly, randomness in the burrow orientation of the ghost crab in sediments characterised by ripple-drift and horizontal lamination suggests intertidal bar facies.
DE: trace-fossils; burrowing-organisms; indicator-species; sand-bars; tidal-flats; palaeo-studies; Ocypode-
CL: Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Paleo-studies-2148; Aquatic-Ecology:-Methods-and-instruments-1382
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
IC: DP9400622
AN: 3614725

                                                                     42 of 380
TI: Ocean currents induced by wind and waves
AU: Melsom,-A.
CA: Oslo Univ., (Norway)
SO: 1992 133 pp
RN: NEI-NO-318 (NEINO318)
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This thesis consists of three parts. In the first part, wave motion under ice in a homogeneous ocean is considered. The influence of turbulence is taken into account by use of an eddy viscosity hypothesis. The eddy viscosity parameter is taken to be constant. The rate of wave attenuation is discussed, and an elastic "roll-over" effect is observed for short waves. Furthermore, the induced mean motion is computed. The effect of the viscous interactions at the sea-ice interface and the effect of the earth's rotation are finally discussed. In the second part, the investigation of wave-induced currents under ice in part one is elaborated on. In part one, turbulence was incorporated in the equations by use of a constant value eddy viscosity. However, an eddy viscosity which is independent of depth will not reproduce the logarithmic current profile which is generally believed to exist in the immediate neighborhood of a solid boundary. Hence, the modifications of the circulation by application of a variable eddy viscosity are examined. The parametrizations of the eddy viscosity are discussed in relation to field observations and considerations regarding the physics of the problem. In the third part, wind generated wave motion in the open ocean is analyzed. The rate of growth or decay of the wave amplitude is determined by the friction velocity and the wavelength. The primary intention is to investigate the nonlinear drift currents in the ocean. The development of such currents are computed until either wave breaking occurs or a steady state is reached. Furthermore, some considerations regarding volume fluxes and the eddy viscosity hypothesis are made in relation to theoretical efforts by other authors. 95 refs., 20 figs., 1 tab.
DE: wave-motion; ice-cover; turbulence-; wave-attenuation; ice-water-interface; wind-waves; eddy-viscosity; wave-dynamics; wave-breaking; ocean-currents
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9402122
AN: 3614595

                                                                     43 of 380
TI: Estimation of waves and winds over seas in the coastal zone
AU: Takeda,-A.; Tokuda,-M.; Iwasaki,-S.; Watabe,-I.; Morohoshi,-T.
CA: National Research Cent. for Disaster Prevention, Sakura (Japan)
SO: 1990 6 pp
PY: 1990
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method with which quantitative informations of ocean waves and sea surface winds are obtained from an imagery of visible bands of MESSR (Multispectral Electronic Self-Scanning Radiometer) is discussed. Discrimination of the individual waves patterns from MESSR imagery is practically difficult because of lower resolution of 50 m, while it is narrowly possible from an imagery of TM (Thematic Mapper) or SPOT. There is, however, another approach to obtain the informations from a MESSR imagery. A population density of white caps generated by wave breaking increases with increasing wind speeds. A high density of the white caps over the sea surface will be reflected on the MESSR imagery as a bright spot which can be detected. In fact, a correlation is found between densities of high brightness and wind speeds over a sea area. It can be concluded that wind speeds are estimated from MESSR imageries with considerations on the fetch and duration. (DBO)
DE: coastal-zone; quantitative-distribution; surface-water-waves; spectral-composition; wave-breaking; whitecapping-; wind-speed; INW,-Japan,-Japan-Inland-Sea
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
IC: NO9402048
AN: 3612961

                                                                     44 of 380
TI: Characteristics of solitary wave breaking induced by breakwaters
AU: Grilli,-S.T.; Losada,-M.A.; Martin,-F.
AF: Dep. Oc. Eng., Univ. Rhode Island, Kingston, RI 02881, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1994 vol. 120, no. 1, pp. 74-92
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Laboratory experiments are presented for the breaking of solitary waves over breakwaters. A variety of behaviors is observed, depending on both breakwater and incident wave height: for emerged breakwaters, waves may collapse over the crown, or break backward during rundown; and for submerged breakwaters, waves may break forward or backward, downstream of the breakwater. The limit of overtopping and wave transmission and reflection coefficients are experimentally determined. It is seen that transmission is large over submerged breakwaters (55-90%), and may also reach 20-40% over emerged breakwaters. Computations using a fully nonlinear potential model agree well with experimental results for submerged breakwaters, particularly for the smaller waves (H/d < 0.4). For emerged breakwaters, computations correctly predict the limit over-topping, and the backward collapsing during rundown.
DE: breakwaters-; wave-height; wave-action; design-criteria; coastal-engineering; breaking-waves; wave-breaking; solitary-waves; design-
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9416360
AN: 3611036

                                                                     45 of 380
TI: Experimental study of three-dimensional wave breaking
AU: She,-K.; Greated,-C.A.; Easson,-W.J.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Brighton, Lewes Rd., Brighton, BN2 4AT, UK
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1994 vol. 120, no. 1, pp. 20-36
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The present study investigates two cases of three-dimensional wave breaking. In the first case, the wave field contains a single frequency with a uniform angular spreading within a given range {- alpha ,  alpha }. The wave field of the second case consists of a number of frequencies with a uniform angular spreading applied to each frequency. In both cases, the waves are designed such that the wave energy is focused at a given point. Surface elevation in the focusing region is recorded and parameters such as the breaking-wave height and the crest-front steepness are calculated. It is shown that the wave height, crest elevation, crest-front steepness, and vertical asymmetry factor, at breaking, are strong functions of the angular spreading, while the crest-rear steepness and horizontal asymmetry factor are little affected by the angular spreading. In general, the greater the spreading angle, the bigger are the breakers. It is hoped that the results obtained here will provide a useful preliminary assessment of the importance of three-dimensionality in wave breaking.
DE: wave-height; wave-crest; wave-action; numerical-analysis; coastal-engineering; wave-breaking; breaking-waves; wave-crests; kinematics-
ID: breaking-waves; three-dimensionality
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9416357
AN: 3608493

                                                                     46 of 380
TI: Breaking waves. IUTAM Symposium held in Sydney, Australia on July 15-19, 1991
AU: Banner,-M.L.; Grimshaw,-R.H.
CA: New South Wales Univ., Kensington (Australia)
SO: 1991 402 pp
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The Symposium focused on water waves of all scales from capillary waves to ocean swell, but also considered internal waves and the filamentation of vorticity interfaces. Specific topics included were: (1) fundamental theoretical studies; wave instabilities; routes to breaking; (2) models of wave breaking; (3) field observations, including statistical information; (4) laboratory studies; (5) shoaling waves, breaking waves on currents, breaking induced by the motion of a ship; (6) consequences of waves breaking for oceanic studies, microwave remote sensing, role of breaking in air-sea fluxes, wind-wave prediction models; acoustics of wave breaking; bubble formation; and (7) wave breaking in industrial applications, wave forces on structures.
DE: conferences-; breaking-waves; ocean-tides; internal-waves; models-; environmental-monitoring; remote-sensing; Australia,-New-South-Wales,-Sydney
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9402131
AN: 3604724

                                                                     47 of 380
TI: Sediment concentration and sediment transport due to action of waves and a current
AU: Chen,-Z.
CA: Technische Univ., Delft (Netherlands)
SO: 1992 223 pp
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The ultimate objective of the study is to investigate the mechanism of the cross-shore transport phenomenon to improve existing predictive models. In the study, emphasis is placed on two main areas: the spatial and temporal behavior of sediment concentration (on an intra-wave scale) under waves with a current; the relative importance of the fluctuations of sediment concentration and velocity in sediment transport. To achieve this objective, laboratory experiments were carried out in a wave flume. Local instantaneous sediment concentration and velocity were measured under the combined action of non-breaking waves and a current. Measurements were made at a number of elevations above the bed. Instrumentation consisted of an optical concentration meter (OPCON) and an electromagnetic flow meter (EMS). The OPCON together with the EMS had the capacity to measure sediment concentration and velocity on an intra-wave scale.
DE: sediment-transport; marine-environment; spatial-variations; temporal-variations; sediment-collections; wave-current-interaction; wave-effects; measuring-devices; wind-; measuring-instruments; monitoring-
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9402119
AN: 3604461

                                                                     48 of 380
TI: Orleansville tsunami of 1954 and El Asnam tsunami of 1980 in Alboran Sea (Southwestern Mediterranean Sea)
AU: Solov'-yev,-S.L.; Campos-Romero,-M.L.; Plink,-N.L.
AF: Shmidt Inst. Earth Phys., Russian Acad. Sci., Moscow, Russia
SO: PHYS.-SOLID-EARTH 1993 vol. 28, no. 9, pp. 739-801
IS: ISSN 0001-4354
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A scrutiny of Spanish tide gages for the second half of the 20th century made possible the unexpected discovery that the destructive earthquakes in Algeria at Orleansville in 1954 and an El Asnam in 1980 caused tsunamis in the Mediterranean Sea, which were registered on the southeast coast of the country with a height 7-70 cm and a period 12-25 minutes. A review of a wide range of published earthquake studies reveals that their foci were located too far from the seacoast to cause any appreciable seismotectonic seafloor movements. A strong turbidity current forming after the earthquake of 1954 and breaking five underwater cable lines has been described in the literature. All this gives basis for postulating that the tsunamis of 1954 and 1980 were generated by major underwater slides that gave rise to turbidity currents. The quite limited volume of data available on the travel times of direct tsunami waves is consistent with the hypothesis of their formation on the submarine slope of Africa. The tsunami energy is 1% of the slide (current) energy, which is consistent with the results of hydraulic modeling of tsunamis of such an origin.
DE: earthquakes-; tsunamis-; waves-; Mediterranean-Sea; tide-gauges; MED,-Spain; tsunami-generation; MED,-Alboran-Sea; Algeria-; disasters-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9414678
AN: 3599891

                                                                     49 of 380
TI: Breaking of irregular waves with opposing current
AU: Li,-Yucheng; Dong,-Guohai
AF: Dalian Univ. Technol., Dalian 116024, People's Rep. China
SO: MAR.-SCI.-BULL.-HAIYANG-TONGBAO 1993 vol. 12, no. 5, pp. 1-8
IS: ISSN 1001-6392
PY: 1993
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The experimental test and theoretical analyses suggested that he critical value of relative wave height (H/d) sub(b) given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H/L) sub(b) given by Michell and Miche could be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular wave. Systematic theoretical analyses and experiment of irregular waves, conducted under the same principle, indicated that the method of determining wave breaking of regular wave was applicable to irregular waves.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-current-interaction; breaking-waves; indicators-; wave-height; wave-steepness
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9400708
AN: 3599452

                                                                     50 of 380
TI: Ultra-wideband radar studies of steep crested waves with scanning laser measurements of wave slope profiles
AU: Trizna,-D.B.; Hansen,-J.P.; Hwang,-P.; Wu,-Jin
AF: Radar Div., Nav. Res. Lab., Washington, DC 20375, USA
CO: Meet. of the Division of Fluid Dynamics of the American Physical Society. Ocean Sciences Meeting of the American Geophysical Union., Scottsdale, AZ (USA). New Orleans, LA (USA), Nov 1991. Jan 1992
SO: LABORATORY-EXPERIMENTS-IN-PHYSICAL-OCEANOGRAPHY.-PART-B. Boyer,-D.L.;Fernando,-H.J.S.;Van-Atta,-C.-eds. 1993 vol. 20, no. 1-2 pp. 33-53
IS: ISSN 0377-0265
ST: DYN.-ATMOS.-OCEANS vol. 20, no. 1-2
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: We report results of ultra wide-band radar sea spike experiments using steep and weakly breaking non-linear water surface features in a wave tank. To generate these features we used a 1 s paddle wave and wind waves for a sequence of wind speeds. We report results considering the wave slope component in the propagation direction and the corresponding curvature component. For the conditions studied, two types of features which produce sea spike radar echoes were generated-a non-linear feature near the crest front of the wind wave, caused by extreme steepening as a result of the passage of the paddle wave, and a steepened blocked wind wave in the trough of the paddle wave, caused by the local orbital current of the 1 s wave being nearly equal to and opposite the phase velocity of the wind wave.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; air-sea-interaction; surface-water-waves; wave-measurement; wave-crests; wind-wave-generation; wave-slope; simulation-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9411741
AN: 3578496

                                                                     51 of 380
TI: Bubble size distribution under saltwater and freshwater breaking waves
AU: Cartmill,-J.W.; Su,-Ming-Yang
AF: Planning Systems Inc., Slidell, LA 70458, USA
CO: Meet. of the Division of Fluid Dynamics of the American Physical Society. Ocean Sciences Meeting of the American Geophysical Union., Scottsdale, AZ (USA). New Orleans, LA (USA), Nov 1991. Jan 1992
SO: LABORATORY-EXPERIMENTS-IN-PHYSICAL-OCEANOGRAPHY.-PART-B. Boyer,-D.L.;Fernando,-H.J.S.;Van-Atta,-C.-eds. 1993 vol. 20, no. 1-2 pp. 25-31
IS: ISSN 0377-0265
ST: DYN.-ATMOS.-OCEANS vol. 20, no. 1-2
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The chemical composition of salt water profoundly alters the process of microbubble formation and must be accounted for in extrapolating freshwater results to the ocean environment. Results are presented of the measurement of bubble size distributions generated by breaking waves in both freshwater and saltwater laboratory tanks. Bubble radii in the range of 34-1200  mu m were measured by an acoustic resonator at various positions and depths in a large-scale wave tank at Oregon State University. This experiment represents the first attempt to measure bubbles produced by breaking waves at this large scale in a saltwater tank. An order of magnitude increase in the number density over the entire size range was observed for salt water vs. fresh water.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; air-sea-interaction; bubbles-; breaking-waves; cavitation-; sea-water; fresh-water; wave-tanks
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9411740
AN: 3578495

                                                                     52 of 380
TI: Simulation and stability of two-dimensional internal gravity waves in a stratified shear flow
AU: Lin,-C.-L.; Ferziger,-J.H.; Koseff,-J.R.; Monismith,-S.G.
AF: Environ. Fluid Mech. Lab., Stanford Univ., CA 94305-4020, USA
CO: Meet. of the Division of Fluid Dynamics of the American Physical Society. Ocean Sciences Meet. of the American Geophysical Union, Scottsdale, AZ (USA). New Orleans, LA (USA), Nov 1991. Jan 1992
SO: LABORATORY-EXPERIMENTS-IN-PHYSICAL-OCEANOGRAPHY.-PART-A. Boyer,-D.L.;Fernando,-H.J.S.;Van-Atta,-C.-eds. 1993 vol. 19, no. 1-4 pp. 325-366
IS: ISSN 0377-0265
ST: DYN.-ATMOS.-OCEANS vol. 19, no. 1-4
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Two-dimensional interaction of internal waves with critical layers is studied by a combination of numerical simulation and linear stability analysis. Results show that density overturns occur early without a Rayleigh-Taylor instability developing. Instead, Kelvin-Helmholtz billows develop later. Because the instability occurs when profiles vary slowly in a convected frame, linear stability analysis can be applied locally. The analysis shows that two classes of unstable modes should be present; they are both of mixed type. The shear is reduced to explore the properties of oblique modes. It is found that a Rayleigh-Taylor instability in the spanwise direction should be the most unstable mode. The shear-dominated mixed instability arises in the numerical simulation because the spanwise Rayleigh-Taylor instability is not allowed in a two-dimensional simulation. The two-dimensional case does not permit 'wave breaking' in the usual sense; instead, an instability develops.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; water-wave-motion; internal-waves; gravity-waves; stratified-shear-flow; instability-; simulation-; numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9411760
AN: 3578490

                                                                     53 of 380
TI: Turbulence and mixing in the boundary layer generated by shoaling internal waves
AU: Taylor,-J.R.
AF: Cent. Water Res., Univ. Western Australia, Nedlands, W.A. 6009, Australia
CO: Meet. of the Division of Fluid Dynamics of the American Physical Society. Ocean Sciences Meet. of the American Geophysical Union, Scottsdale, AZ (USA). New Orleans, LA (USA), Nov 1991. Jan 1992
SO: LABORATORY-EXPERIMENTS-IN-PHYSICAL-OCEANOGRAPHY.-PART-A. Boyer,-D.L.;Fernando,-H.J.S.;Van-Atta,-C.-eds. 1993 vol. 19, no. 1-4 pp. 233-258
IS: ISSN 0377-0265
ST: DYN.-ATMOS.-OCEANS vol. 19, no. 1-4
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Over a range of incidence angles the energy of an internal wave propagating onto a sloping boundary is concentrated in a boundary layer on the slope. As a wave propagates upslope the change in its amplitude and interaction with the downslope flow remaining from previous waves results in the wave breaking and the generation of turbulence and mixing in the boundary layer. Measurements of the overturning and buoyancy scales on the slope show that turbulence is generated and decays during each wave cycle and that much of the energy input to mixing scales is extracted from density inversions generated by the wave-induced mean flow. A comparison with decaying turbulence behind a grid in a stratified water tunnel suggests that the criterion for the extinction of the buoyancy flux is similar in the two cases.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; internal-waves; turbulence-; water-mixing; shoaling-waves; water-wave-motion; wave-breaking; simulation-; numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9411757
AN: 3578487

                                                                     54 of 380
TI: An experimental investigation of vertical mixing in two-layer density-stratified shear flows
AU: Sullivan,-G.D.; List,-E.J.
AF: Contra Costa Water Dist., P.O. Box H2O, Concord, CA 94524, USA
CO: Meet. of the Division of Fluid Dynamics of the American Physical Society. Ocean Sciences Meet. of the American Geophysical Union, Scottsdale, AZ (USA). New Orleans, LA (USA), Nov 1991. Jan 1992
SO: LABORATORY-EXPERIMENTS-IN-PHYSICAL-OCEANOGRAPHY.-PART-A. Boyer,-D.L.;Fernando,-H.J.S.;Van-Atta,-C.-eds. 1993 vol. 19, no. 1-4 pp. 147-174
IS: ISSN 0377-0265
ST: DYN.-ATMOS.-OCEANS vol. 19, no. 1-4
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Vertical mixing is experimentally investigated at a sheared horizontal interface separating two streams of fluid with different densities. Steady-state counterflows are generated in a laboratory water channel for layer Richardson numbers, Ri, between about 1 and 10 and mean shear Richardson numbers, Ri sub(s), between about 0.15 and 0.6. The dominant interfacial mixing mechanism is found to depend on Ri sub(s): for Ri sub(s) less then about 0.40-0.45, local mixing is dominated by Kelvin-Helmholtz (K-H) instabilities; for somewhat larger values of Ri sub(s), local mixing is dominated by interfacial wave-breaking. In both cases, estimates of the local Monin-Obukhov length suggest that properties of the turbulence away from the interface are approximately independent of the buoyancy flux.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; stratified-shear-flow; water-mixing; breaking-waves; instability-; turbulent-entrainment; simulation-; Richardson-number
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9411754
AN: 3578484

                                                                     55 of 380
TI: On the concentration and statistical distribution of the sizes of air bubbles produced by the wind in coastal waters of the Black Sea
AU: Kolobayev,-P.A.; Dekterev,-A.Kh.
AF: Mar. Hydrophys. Inst., Sevastopol., Crimea, Ukraine
SO: OCEANOL.-ACAD.-SCI.-USSR 1992 vol. 32, no. 3, pp. 305-308
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Experimental data are given on the concentration of air bubbles and their statistical distribution with respect to size obtained during a study of bubbles at depths of 1-15 m and a wind speed of 7-11 m/s in the spring of 1989 for the coastal zone of the sea. A description is given of the equipment for photographing the bubbles in the water, and of the procedure for studying bubble parameters in the coastal region of the sea.
DE: air-bubbles; breaking-waves; MED,-Black-Sea; wind-speed; underwater-photography; photographic-equipment; vertical-distribution; statistical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
IC: CS9412095
AN: 3565331

                                                                     56 of 380
TI: Interaction of short-crested random waves and large-scale currents
AU: Hedges,-T.S.; Tickell,-R.G.; Akrigg,-J.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Liverpool, P.O. Box 147, Liverpool, L69 3BX, UK
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1993 vol. 19, no. 3-4, pp. 207-221
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Methods are outlined for determining the transformations to directional wave spectra induced by large-scale currents. The problems considered are those where waves move from quiescent water on to a current, or from one current region to another. Situations involving wave generation on currents are not discussed. The principle of wave action conservation is used to relate the wave energy densities in the two regions, and an equilibrium range constraint is applied to the high frequency tail of the transformed spectrum in instances where wave action is not conserved and energy is dissipated by wave breaking. Examples are presented which highlight how current-induced wave refraction and energy dissipation may have important consequences for the transformed spectrum.
DE: coastal-engineering; water-wave-motion; wave-dynamics; wave-current-interaction; wave-spectra; wave-refraction; wave-breaking; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9407348
AN: 3552874

                                                                     57 of 380
TI: Experimental investigation of wave propagation over a bar
AU: Beji,-S.; Battjes,-J.A.
AF: Delft Univ. Technol., Dep. Civ. Eng., Stevinweg 1, P.O. Box 5048, 2600 GA, Delft, Netherlands
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1993 vol. 19, no. 1-2, pp. 151-162
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Laboratory experiments have been performed to elucidate the phenomenon of high frequency energy generation observed in the power spectra of waves traveling over submerged bars. Wave breaking itself, even in the case of plunging breakers, is found to be a secondary effect in this process, contributing by dissipating the overall wave energy without changing its relative spectral distribution significantly. The observations suggest the feasibility of numerical modeling of the harmonics generation and release in breaking waves on the basis of a model for nonlinear conservative (non-dissipative) wave-wave interaction, to simulate the evolution of the spectral shape, in conjunction with a (semi-empirical) model for the dissipation of the total energy due to breaking.
DE: coastal-engineering; nearshore-dynamics; water-wave-motion; wave-breaking; wave-propagation; wave-spectra; wave-energy; mathematical-models; sand-bars
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9407351
AN: 3552871

                                                                     58 of 380
TI: Comparative accuracy of numerical Kelvin wake code predictions -- wake off
AU: Lindenmuth,-W.; Ratcliffe,-T.J.; Reed,-A.M.
CA: David W. Taylor Naval Ship Research and Development Cent., Bethesda, MD (USA)
SO: REP.-DAVID-TAYLOR-RES.-CENT. 1991 275 pp
RN: DTRC-91/004 (DTRC91004)
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave patterns predicted by several numerical codes were evaluated by comparing them with data from model basin experiments on two ship hulls at three Froude number each. In general, the codes all underpredict the amplitude of divergent waves springing from the ships' bow. High wave number detail is also lacking in the vicinity of the bow wave cusp line compared to model free-surface wave patterns. Conversely, the codes tend to overpredict the amplitudes of wave close to the ships' stern and in the transverse wave system behind. The codes are ranked according to how closely they stimulate the empirical results. Within the ranking, adjacent codes give similar wave predictions and the rank might be interchanged for a few Froude number cases. Higher ranked codes gave consistently better predictions than the lower ranked codes. Problems for the lower ranked codes included: excessive wave damping such that waves are attenuated near the edges of the computational domain; reflections appear at the outer boundaries; high frequency noise exists beyond the 19-deg envelope of the spreading wave train; and wave energy has been severely underpredicted. Standardized graphic representations of the numerical and experimental data are included in the appendixes. The predictions were made blind, without prior knowledge of the specific experimental results. In view of the inherent difficulties including nonlinear wave breaking and real fluid effects (present in the experiments), the agreement achieved by the better codes is encouraging.
DE: wave-interactions; wakes-; ship-hulls; wave-measurement; wave-predicting; wave-attenuation; graphics-; Froude-number
CL: Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Surface-vehicles-2301
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9400637
AN: 3551024

                                                                     59 of 380
TI: Wave transformation and breaking in diagonal opposing current
AU: Guohai,-Dong; Yucheng,-Li
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Dalian Univ. Technol., Dalian 116023, People's Rep. China
SO: CHINA-OCEAN-ENG. 1993 vol. 7, no. 4, pp. 435-440
IS: ISSN 0890-5487
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: When waves propagate into diagonal opposing current from non-current area, not only the wave parameters but also the direction of wave propagation will change, that is, wave refraction will occur. The authors have calculated the changes of wave parameters, including wave refraction, by Linear Wave Theory, and have also done systematic study on wave transformation and breaking in opposing current by means of experimental analysis and theoretical calculation. In order to know the effect of wave refraction, computation is done in this paper about wave transformation and breaking on gentle slopes in diagonal opposing current.
DE: wave-breaking; current-direction; wave-refraction; wave-propagation; numerical-analysis; wave-current-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-General-2161
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9407380
AN: 3547316

                                                                     60 of 380
TI: Land degradation and the coastal environment of Nigeria
AU: Oyegun,-C.U.
SO: CATENA 1993 vol. 20, no. 3, pp. 215-225
IS: ISSN 0341-8162
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Land degradation in the coastal belt of Nigeria is manifested along the outer barrier island complexes and the banks of the tidal basins, creeks and rivers of the Niger Delta. The generally low lying terrain consists of unconsolidated mud and sandy particles which present no serious resistance to the impact of breaking waves and the flood/ebb tidal currents associated with the shoreline. This paper uses primary and secondary data sources to describe cases of land degradation based on the morphological units of Nigeria's shoreline. Anthropogenic influences accelerate land degradation along the coastline hence, the need for the government of Nigeria to evolve a comprehensive landuse policy for the development of the oil rich coastal ecological zone.
DE: degradation-; barrier-islands; shores-; geomorphology-; erosion-; waves-; coastal-zone-management; Nigeria-; land-use; coastal-morphology; ASE,-Nigeria; wave-forces
CL: Law,-Policy,-Economics-and-Social-Sciences:-Coastal-zone-management-2124; Environmental-Changes,-Conservation,-Public-Health:-Mechanical-and-natural-changes-1521
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); ASFA-3:-Aquatic-Pollution-and-Environmental-Quality (Q5)
OZ: Atlantic-Southeast (ASE)
IC: CS9409958
AN: 3547083

                                                                     61 of 380
TI: Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach
AU: Roelvink,-J.A.
AF: Delft Hydraul., P.O. Box 152, 8300 AD Emmeloord, Netherlands
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1993 vol. 19, no. 1-2, pp. 127-150
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Variations in short-wave properties on the time-scale of wave groups provide important mechanisms in the generation of long waves. An essential component of models that describe the propagation of wave groups is the description of the slowly varying dissipation due to wave breaking. A model is proposed for the time-varying dissipation rate. Calibrated models of the mean dissipation rate in random waves show some improvements in the prediction of internal parameters. The usefulness of these models is also enhanced because the calibration coefficients can be kept constant over a wide range of conditions. The calibrated formulation of the time-varying dissipation rate is quite simple and can be readily used in wave propagation models that take into account variations on the time-scale of wave groups.
DE: coastal-engineering; nearshore-dynamics; waves-on-beaches; wave-groups; wave-dissipation; wave-propagation; mathematical-models; random-processes
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9407352
AN: 3545556

                                                                     62 of 380
TI: Wave breaking phenomena of irregular waves combined with opposing current
AU: Li,-Yucheng; Dong,-Guohai
AF: Dalian Univ. Technol., Dalian 116023, People's Rep. China
SO: CHINA-OCEAN-ENG. 1993 vol. 7, no. 2, pp. 197-206
IS: ISSN 0890-5487
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Experimental study and theoretical analysis show that the critical value of relative wave height (H/d) sub(b) given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H/L) sub(b) given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular waves. According to the same principle, a systematic theoretical analysis and experiment of irregular waves have been done by the authors in order to solve the breaking problem of irregular waves. It is indicated that the authors' method for determining wave breaking of regular waves can also be used for irregular waves.
DE: offshore-engineering; wave-forces; wave-current-interaction; wave-breaking; breaking-waves; wave-dynamics; nonlinear-waves; numerical-analysis
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9407327
AN: 3545460

                                                                     63 of 380
TI: Nonlinear evolution of a unidirectional shoaling wave field
AU: Agnon,-Y.; Sheremet,-A.; Gonsalves,-J.; Stiassnie,-M.
AF: Fac. Civ. Eng., Tech.-Israel Inst. Technol. Haifa 32000, Israel
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1993 vol. 20, no. 1-2, pp. 29-58
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Nonlinear energy transfer in the wave spectrum is very important in the shoaling region. Existing theories are limited to weakly dispersive situations (i.e. shallow water or narrow spectrum). A nonlinear evolution equation for shoaling gravity waves is derived, describing the process all the way from deep to shallow water. The slope of the bottom is taken to be smaller, or of the order of the wave steepness ( epsilon ). The waves are assumed unidirectional for simplicity. The shoaling domain extends up to, and excluding, the first line of breaking of the waves. Reflection by the shore is neglected. Dispersion is fully accounted for. The model equation includes terms due to quadratic interactions, which are effective over characteristic time and spatial scales of order (T/ epsilon ) and ( lambda / epsilon ), respectively, where  lambda  and T are wavelength and period at the spectral peak. In the limit of shallow water, the quadratic interaction model tends to the Boussinesq model. By discretizing the wave spectrum, mixed initial and boundary value problems may be computed. The assumption of the existence of a steady state, transforms the problem into a boundary value one. For this case, solutions for a single triad of waves describing the subharmonic generation and for a full discretized spectrum were computed. The results are compared and found to be in good agreement with laboratory and field measurements. The model can be extended to directionally spread spectra and two dimensional bathymetry.
DE: nonlinear-wave-interactions; shoaling-waves; wave-spectra; wave-reflection; bathymetry-; modelling-; shoaling-; water-waves; gravity-waves; energy-transfer
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9404230
AN: 3534042

                                                                     64 of 380
TI: Effects of breaking wave induced turbulence within a longshore current model
AU: Church,-J.C.; Thornton,-E.B.
AF: Nav. Res. Lab., Mar. Geosci., Div., Code 7400, Build. 105, Stennis Space Cent., MS 39529-5000, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1993 vol. 20, no. 1-2, pp. 1-28
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A longshore current model which includes a modification of the bottom stress term due to the effects of breaking-wave induced turbulence is developed and applied to field data from both barred and planar beaches. This turbulence is postulated as producing a vertical mixing which alters the near-bottom vertical profile of the longshore current. As a result, the bottom fiction coefficient, c sub(f), used to relate the free stream current velocity to the bottom stress is modeled as consisting of two components, c sub(fl), a spatially constant value which is assumed to be related to bottom characteristics and c sub(fr), which is dependent upon breaking-wave induced near-bottom turbulence levels. Employing a one-dimensional turbulent kinetic energy equation to model this breaking-wave induced turbulence, a spatially varying bottom friction coefficient is obtained. The spatially constant c sub(fl) is estimated based on data taken seaward of the surf zone, where the wind stress is assumed to be balanced by the bottom stress. The concept is demonstrated without the inclusion of horizontal mixing in the longshore current model formulation. The model predicted cross-shore profiles of longshore current show improved agreement with observations compared with treatments using constant c sub(f) values.
DE: longshore-currents; breaking-waves; turbulence-; bottom-stress; modelling-; wave-breaking; wave-effects; waves-on-beaches
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9404231
AN: 3534041

                                                                     65 of 380
TI: A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water
AU: Schaeffer,-H.A.; Madsen,-P.A.; Deigaard,-R.
AF: Danish Hydraul. Inst., Agern Alle 5, DK-2970 Horsholm, Denmark
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1993 vol. 20, no. 3-4, pp. 185-202
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A simple description of wave breaking in shallow water is incorporated in the Boussinesq equations by using the concept of surface rollers. The roller is considered as a volume of water being carried by the wave with the wave celerity. The effect of the roller is included in the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocity, which leads to an additional convective momentum term. The breaking criterion is related to the local slope of water surface and the thickness of the roller is determined from simple geometrical considerations. Although the model is simple, it is capable of representing a variety of processes such as the initiation and cessation of wave breaking, the evolution of wave profiles before, during and after wave breaking, the initial conversion of potential energy into forward momentum flux, and the associated horizontal shift between the break point and the point where the setup in mean water level is initiated. Results are presented for regular and irregular wave trains and comparison with measurements shows good agreement.
DE: wave-breaking; coastal-engineering; shallow-water; rollers-; wave-trains; surf-zone; water-waves
ID: Boussinesq-approximation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9404576
AN: 3534009

                                                                     66 of 380
TI: Bubbles and the air-sea transfer velocity of gases
AU: Woolf,-D.K.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., Univ. Southampton, Highfield, Southampton SO9 5NH, UK
SO: ATMOSPHERE-OCEAN 1993 vol. 31, no. 4, pp. 517-540
IS: ISSN 0705-5900
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); Z (Bibliography)
ER: M (Marine); F (Freshwater)
AB: The exchange of gases between the atmosphere and the oceans may occur directly through the sea surface and indirectly through the mediation of additional transient reservoirs: the bubbles injected into the upper ocean by breaking waves. These bubbles both will increase the gross rate of exchange between air and sea and will tend to force a supersaturation of the upper ocean. These two effects are made explicit by writing the equation for the net air-sea flux of a gas.
DE: gas-exchange; bubbles-; air-water-exchanges; surface-chemistry; supersaturation-; oceanography-; energy-transfer; mathematical-models
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CA9400149
AN: 3531588

                                                                     67 of 380
TI: Observations of underwater sound at frequencies below 1500 Hz from breaking waves at sea
AU: Hollett,-R.D.
AF: SACLANT Undersea Res. Cent., I-19138 La Spezia, Italy
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1994 vol. 95, no. 1, pp. 165-170
IS: ISSN 0001-4966
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An experiment was performed to obtain underwater sound recordings at frequencies below 1500 Hz from a patch of sea surface in the presence of breaking waves, concurrently with video recordings of events in the patch. The sound recordings were obtained using a vertical array in end-fire mode. Some results are presented for wind speeds of 10 and 15 m/s. The sound recordings consist of series of discrete bursts of sound, each burst lasting a few seconds. The stronger bursts are readily identified with breaking waves. The weaker bursts are attributed to smaller breakers obscured from view. The sound is generated during the breaking phase. The spectral components are observed at all frequencies down to 75 Hz (down to 50 Hz at times of less shipping). The increase in spectrum level is 10 to 15 dB. In general, the spectrum appears to evolve with the breaking phase, the higher frequency components arising first, at the onset of breaking, the lower frequency components arising a second or more after.
DE: sound-waves; sound-recorders; sound-intensity; videotape-recordings; sound-scattering; marine-environment; wind-pressure; breaking-waves; acoustic-arrays; acoustic-properties
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Propagation-of-sound-2203
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9403542
AN: 3529406

                                                                     68 of 380
TI: Longshore current on a barred beach: Field measurements and calculation
AU: McKee-Smith,-J.; Larson,-M.; Kraus,-N.C.
AF: U.S. Army Eng. Waterways Exp. Stn., Coast. Eng. Res. Cent., Vicksburg, MS 39180, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS 1993 vol. 98, no. C12, pp. 22717-22731
IS: ISSN 0148-0227
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements of the longshore current on a barred beach made during the 1990 Duck Experiment on Low-Frequency and Incident-Band Longshore and Across-Shore Hydrodynamics (DELILAH) field data collection project conducted at Duck, North Carolina, revealed an unexpected and persistent broad peak in the current velocity in the trough between the nearshore bar and the shore. This paper introduces longshore current and associated wave measurements from DELILAH together with a numerical model capable of describing the field observations. An existing numerical model of the mean current is modified to include a general transport equation for the mean turbulent kinetic energy created by wave breaking, and Reynolds stress components needed to calculate the longshore current and mean water level are reexpressed to include the turbulent momentum transport. In comparison to predictions from the original model, the modified model produces much improved agreement with the measured current velocity on the barred profiles in the field measurements and with the velocity profile and mean water level generated on a uniformly sloping laboratory beach by monochromatic waves. Three forms of a bottom friction coefficient are examined, and the open-channel-flow Manning friction coefficient is selected because of best agreement and consistency. Values of the Manning friction coefficient required to calibrate the model agree with values normally assigned to the related bottom roughness in open-channel flow.
DE: longshore-currents; beaches-; ANW,-USA,-North-Carolina,-Duck; hydrodynamics-; models-; current-velocity; bottom-friction; nearshore-currents
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
IC: CS9402570
AN: 3529256

                                                                     69 of 380
TI: Depth of activation of sediment by plunging breakers on a steep sand beach
AU: Jackson,-N.L.; Nordstrom,-K.F.
AF: Sci. Technol. and Soc., New Jersey Inst. Technol., Newark, NJ 07102, USA
SO: MAR.-GEOL. 1993 vol. 115, no. 1-2, pp. 143-151
IS: ISSN 0025-3227
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Field data were collected over a lunar tidal cycle on a meso-tidal medium-sand estuarine beach in Delaware Bay, USA to document the relationship between wave height and depth of sediment activation in a low-wave-energy environment. Dominant energy was at the frequencies of locally-generated waves and ocean swell. Significant wave heights ranged from 0.06 m to 0.52 m. Periods of locally-generated waves averaged 4.0 s during strong onshore winds and 2.6 s during low-speed winds. Waves on the foreshore were always plunging. The foreshore maintained a slope of approximately 6.0 degree  throughout the study period. Mean grain size at mid-foreshore was 0.46 mm. The greatest net surface-elevation change in response to storm erosion and post-storm recovery was 0.26 m. Results confirm previous observations that depths of sediment activation are greater for steeper beaches. The spatial variability in depths of activation across the foreshore is comparable to results of tidal cycle studies, where the ratio of depth of activation to wave height is great because a large percentage of the foreshore comes under the influence of the breakers. The ratio of depth of activation to wave height on the portion of the foreshore that is not transgressed by the breakers is lower and comparable to results of short-term investigations, provided that the influence of beach slope is considered in the calculation of breaking wave height.
DE: sediment-transport; breaking-waves; wave-effects; beach-slope; waves-on-beaches; ANW,-USA,-Delaware-Bay; longshore-sediment-transport; foreshore-; wave-height; USA,-Delaware-Bay; waves-; sedimentation-; shores-; slopes-
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
IC: CS9404924
AN: 3524552

                                                                     70 of 380
TI: Santa Cruz Harbor, California shoaling study reconnaissance report for navigation improvements (reduction of shoaling) at Santa Cruz Harbor, Santa Cruz County, California
AU: Kendall,-T.R.
CA: Army Engineer District, Sacramento, CA (USA)
SO: 1992 468 pp
RN: COESPN/PEW-93-001 (COESPNPEW93001)
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This report was prepared in response to Section 811 of the Water Resources Development Act of 1986 (WRDA 86) which calls for a study of long-term solutions to the shoaling problems at Santa Cruz Harbor in the interest of navigation. Hazardous navigation conditions at the entrance to Santa Cruz Harbor are the result of: (1) wave activity in the entrance caused by waves breaking over shallow depths adjacent to the entrance channel; and, (2) shoals in the entrance channel which require frequent dredging and also contribute to breaking waves. These conditions are the result of relatively high littoral transport and the harbor's small tidal prism which is insufficient in volume to naturally scour the jettied entrance. The purpose of this study was to evaluate alternatives over and above the without project condition designed to supplement Port District activities. Unfortunately, none of the potential solution studied was found to be economically justified due to the relatively low magnitude of navigation benefits that would be generated.
DE: shoaling-; harbours-; navigational-hazards; INE,-USA,-California,-Santa-Cruz-Harbor; wave-action; dredging-; navigational-channels
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Dredging-2384; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
IC: NO9301211
AN: 3524319

                                                                     71 of 380
TI: Kink-assisted mode hopping in a surface wave resonator
AU: McClellan,-C.B.
CA: Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA (USA)
SO: 1992 68 pp
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Self-localized kink structures have been observed in standing surface gravity waves in a parametrically driven annular channel of liquid. The kink regions have substantially greater amplitude and smaller wavelength than the extended mode region, and can exist indefinitely only for sufficiently large drive levels such that the structures exhibit violent breaking and jetting motion. For lower drive levels, the structures exist as transients that spontaneously participate in the transition from one mode to a mode with either one less or one more wavelength. In this mode hopping process, the destruction or creation of the wavelength occurs in the kink region. The kink structures are predicted to exist according to a theory that simultaneously allows amplitude and wave number modulations of a finite-amplitude standing wave. This situation is in fundamental contrast to nonlinear Schrodinger solitons, which correspond to only amplitude modulations, and to all other known types of solitons. Kink, Soliton, Mode-hopping, Surface wave, Resonator.
DE: surface-gravity-waves; wave-amplitude; wavelength-; wave-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9301094
AN: 3523673

                                                                     72 of 380
TI: Air-sea interaction and remote sensing
AU: Katsaros,-K.B.; Ataktuerk,-S.S.
CA: Washington Univ., Seattle, WA (USA)
SO: NASA-CONTRACT.-REP. 1992 12 pp
RN: NAS 1.26:190913; NASA-CR-190913 (126190913NASACR190913)
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The first part of the proposed research was a joint effort between our group and the Applied Physics Laboratory (APL), University of Washington. The author's own research goal is to investigate the relation between the air-sea exchange processes and the sea state over the open ocean and to compare these findings with previous results obtained over a small body of water namely, Lake Washington. The goals of the APL researchers are to study (1) the infrared sea surface temperature (SST) signature of breaking waves and surface slicks, and (2) microwave and acoustic scattering from water surface. The task of the group in this joint effort is to conduct measurements of surface fluxes (of momentum, sensible heat, and water vapor) and atmospheric radiation (longwave and shortwave) to achieve our research goal as well as to provide crucial complementary data for the APL studies. The progress of the project is summarized.
DE: air-sea-interaction; sea-state; surface-temperature; infrared-imagery; microwave-imagery; acoustic-imagery; progress-reports; breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393; Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Air-sea-coupling-2244
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9301078
AN: 3523657

                                                                     73 of 380
TI: Effect of breaking waves on the transport of heat and vapor fluxes from the ocean
AU: Ling,-S.C.
AF: Dep. Mech. Eng., Catholic Univ. America, Washington, DC 20064, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1993 vol. 23, no. 11, pp. 2360-2372
IS: ISSN 0022-3670
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: One method of studying the complexities of the atmospheric surface layer over the ocean during high sea states is to consider the waves as moving drag objects for the wind. The study treats transport equations for the momentum, temperature, humidity, and water microdroplets as intercoupled fields. Microdroplets produced by breaking waves in the ocean are found to be a major source of atmospheric moisture and latent heat. Field data reduced by the present model give highly consistent results. The vertical energy flux from the ocean during high sea states was found to be several times larger than the energy flux expressed by existing formulations, in which the effect of water droplets is not taken into consideration.
DE: breaking-waves; sea-state; surface-layers; water-vapour; atmospheric-precipitations; climate-; sea-surface; energy-flow
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9404547
AN: 3523149

                                                                     74 of 380
TI: Universal multifractal indices for the ocean surface at far red wavelengths
AU: Tessier,-Y.; Lovejoy,-S.; Schertzer,-D.; Lavallee,-D.; Kerman,-B.
AF: URA CNRS 1367, Lab. Geol. Appl., France
SO: GEOPHYS.-RES.-LETT. 1993 vol. 20, no. 12, pp. 1167-1170
IS: ISSN 0094-8276
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
DE: breaking-waves; wind-speed; wave-dynamics; energy-flow; wavelength-; radiance-; nonlinear-waves; wind-wave-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Tides,-surges-and-sea-level-2167
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9404462
AN: 3523118

                                                                     75 of 380
TI: Statistics of shear and turbulent dissipation profiles in random internal wave fields
AU: Gregg,-M.C.; Seim,-H.E.; Percival,-D.B.
AF: Appl. Phys. Lab., Univ. Washington, 1013 NE 40th St., Seattle, WA 98105-6698, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1993 vol. 23, no. 8, pp. 1777-1799
IS: ISSN 0022-3670
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Because breaking internal waves produces most of the turbulence in the thermocline, the statistics of  epsilon , the rate of turbulent dissipation, cannot be understood apart from the statistics of internal wave shear. The statistics of  epsilon  and shear are compared for two sets of profiles from the northeast Pacific. One set, PATCHEX, has internal wave shear close to the Garrett and Munk model, but other set, PATCHEX north, has average 10-m shear squared, <S super(2) sub(1) sub(0)>, about four times larger than the model. The 10-m shear components, S sub(x) and S sub(y), were measured between 1 and 9 MPa and referenced to a common stratification by WKB scaling. The scaled components, S sub(x) and S sub(y), are found to be independent and normally distributed with zero means, as assumed by Garrett and Munk. This readily leads to analytic forms for the probability densities of S super(2) sub(1) sub(0) and S super(4) sub(1) sub(0). The observed probability densities of S super(2) sub(1) sub(0) and S super(4) sub(1) sub(0) are close to the predicted forms, and both are strongly skewed.
DE: internal-waves; random-processes; shear-stress; turbulent-diffusion; thermocline-; mixing-processes; wave-statistics; turbulent-shear-flow
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9404513
AN: 3522996

                                                                     76 of 380
TI: A note on the three-dimensional shear stress distribution in a surf zone
AU: Deigaard,-R.
AF: Inst. Hydrodyn. and Hydraul. Eng. (ISVA), Tech. Univ. Denmark, DK-2800 Lyngby, Denmark
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1993 vol. 20, no. 1-2, pp. 157-171
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The three-dimensional time-mean shear stress distribution in a surf zone is analyzed, thereby determining the vertical distribution of the driving forces due to wave-breaking. It is found that on a uniform coast the longshore current can be described as driven by a surface shear stress equal to the cross-shore gradient in the shear component of the radiation stress. The near surface shear stress is found to be in the direction of wave propagation, having a magnitude determined by the dissipation of wave energy. It can be determined as the shear force acting on the waves from the surface rollers of spilling breakers or broken waves.
DE: shear-stress; surf-zone; wave-breaking; vertical-distribution; longshore-currents; breaking-waves; models-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9404577
AN: 3522980

                                                                     77 of 380
TI: Numerical solution of the elliptic mild-slope equation for irregular wave propagation
AU: Li,-B.; Reeve,-D.E.; Fleming,-C.A.
AF: Sir William Halcrow & Partners Ltd., Burderop Park, Swindon, Wiltshire SN 0QD, UK
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1993 vol. 20, no. 1-2, pp. 85-100
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this paper a multigrid method is used to solve the elliptic form of the mild-slope equation for irregular water wave propagation. The effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and wave breaking are included. The numerical scheme is very efficient and allows spectral wave calculations to be performed over large study areas at modest computational cost. Model results compare favourably with measurements from wave tank experiments, and demonstrate the large errors in wave amplitude that may occur when using monochromatic models. A sensitivity analysis of the discretisation of the directional spectrum shows that satisfactory results may be obtained with relatively coarse frequency-direction resolution for the cases studied.
DE: wave-propagation; shoaling-; wave-breaking; numerical-analysis; modelling-; coastal-engineering; water-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9404252
AN: 3522972

                                                                     78 of 380
TI: The wave vane -- a device to measure the breaker angle
AU: Chandramohan,-P.; Nayak,-B.U.; Anand,-N.M.
AF: Natl. Inst. Oceanogr., Goa 403 004, India
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1993 vol. 20, no. 1-2, pp. 173-181
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Estimation of the breaker angle in the littoral environmental observation (LEO) program is still based on visual methods and therefore is subjective in nature. In the absence of a wave direction recording instrument, a simple device called the wave vane as described here has been developed to measure the breaking wave angle. The changes in the horizontal component of the orbital velocity under a progressive wave govern the operation of the wave vane. The wave vane consists of a pair of fins, one responding to the velocity in the direction of wave propagation below the wave crest, and the other to the velocity in the direction opposite to wave propagation below the wave trough. This results in wave vane orienting itself in the direction of the wave orthogonal. The performance of the wave vane was evaluated using the instrumentally recorded wave directional data as well as the visually observed data. The wave vane was found to give the wave directional information fairly accurate for the open coast where the influence of tidal currents was negligible.
DE: waves-; wave-propegation; mechanical-equipment; wave-height; wave-crest; coastal-waters; measuring-devices; wave-measuring-equipment; breaking-waves; wave-breaking; water-waves
ID: wave-vane; breaker-angle
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9402692
AN: 3520372

                                                                     79 of 380
TI: Statistical characteristics of uplifting pressure upon a vertical breakwater
AU: Chen,-Xueying; Hu,-Zejian
AF: 1st Inst. Oceanogr., SOA, Qingdao 266003, People's Rep. China
SO: COAST.-ENG.-HAIAN-GONGCHENG 1992 vol. 11, no. 4, pp. 38-45
IS: ISSN 1002-3682
PY: 1992
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this paper, on the basis of data measured in Guzhenkou harbor summer 1987 and 1988, the statistical analysis and the spectral analysis on waves and its uplifting pressure in front of the breakwater were carried out. Without any wave breaking, the studies on the probabilily distribution of the ranges of uplifting pressure, the relation of uplifting pressure and waves, as well as the variation characteristics of uplifting pressure spectra were made.
DE: breakwaters-; buoyancy-; wave-height; correlation-; spectral-analysis; statistical-analysis
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9400088
AN: 3519569

                                                                     80 of 380
TI: Comparative study on breaking wave forces on vertical walls
AU: Ergin,-A.; Abdalla,-S.
AF: Middle East Tech. Univ., 06531 Ankara, Turkey
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1993 vol. 119, no. 5, pp. 560-567
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Systematic comparison between the Minikin and Goda methods for prediction of horizontal breaking-wave force on vertical wall structures is presented. The normalized wave forces are computed using both methods and presented as functions of deep-water-wave steepness, wave height to water depth ratio, sea bottom slope in front of the structure, and the relative height of the rubble foundation. It is found that the empirical methods show different characteristics as far as their predictions are considered. The normalized wave force is found to increase with increasing wave steepness, wave height to water depth ratio, and relative height of the rubble foundation for the Minikin method and vice versa for Goda's. The sea bottom slope has no effect on the normalized force for the Minikin method; and steeper bottoms produce larger forces for Goda method. Furthermore, it is found that the Minikin method usually predicts higher wave forces than Goda's for vertical wall structures with no or low rubble foundations and vice versa for vertical walls with high rubble foundations.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-forces; coastal-engineering; comparative-studies
ID: vertical-walls; Minikin-method; Goda-method
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9402487
AN: 3518660

                                                                     81 of 380
TI: Irregular wave reflection and runup on permeable slopes
AU: Wurjanto,-A.; Kobayashi,-N.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Bandung Inst. Tech., Jalan Ganesha 10, Bandung 40132, Indonesia
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1993 vol. 119, no. 5, pp. 537-559
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A one-dimensional, time-dependent numerical model is developed to simulate the flow over a rough permeable slope as well as the flow inside a permeable underlayer of arbitrary thickness for specified normally incident irregular waves. The derivation of the one-dimensional continuity, momentum and energy equations employed in the numerical model is presented to clarify the basic assumptions made in these equations. The comparison of the numerical model with three test runs shows that the numerical model can predict the time series and spectral characteristics of the reflected waves and waterline oscillations on a 1:3 rough slope with a thick permeable underlayer. The computed results for the three runs indicate that the wave propagation, attenuation, and setup inside the permeable underlayer reduce the intensity of wave breaking and resulting energy dissipation on the slope but increase the energy influx and dissipation inside the thick permeable underlayer. Moreover, the permeability effects result in the time-averaged landward and seaward mass fluxes above and inside the permeable underlayer, respectively.
DE: wave-reflection; wave-runup; permeability-; slopes-topography; coastal-engineering; models-
ID: irregular-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9402486
AN: 3518659

                                                                     82 of 380
TI: Cyclostrophic balance in surface gravity waves
AU: Kenyon,-K.E.
AF: 4632 North La., Del Mar, CA 92014, USA
SO: J.-OCEANOGR.-SOC.-JAPAN-NIHON-KAIYO-GAKKAI 1991 vol. 47, no. 2, pp. 45-48
IS: ISSN 0029-8131
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The cyclostrophic balance (pressure force vs. force centrifugal force) is shown to be satisfied for all fluid particles in surface gravity waves with sinusoidal form and circular particle orbits. Consequences of the cyclostrophic balance are 1) that the normal dispersion relation for deep water hold and 2) that the orbital radius decrease with increasing depth at the usual exponential rate, from which it follows that the wave pressure and particle speed also decrease with depth exponentially. In addition, the cyclostrophic and hydrostatic balances together predict wave breaking at the crests for amplitudes exceeding one divided by the wave number. In contrast to the traditional perturbation method, based on irrotational flow, the cyclostrophic method does not demand that the amplitude be much less than a wave length and does not require an infinite wave train.
DE: surface-gravity-waves; fluid-dynamics; wave-breaking; wave-amplitude; equations-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9402352
AN: 3518633

                                                                     83 of 380
TI: Studies on physical processes at the sea surface. Lecture by the member awarded the Oceanographical Society of Japan Prize for 1989
AU: Toba,-Y.
AF: Dep. Geophys., Fac. Sci., Tohoku Univ., Sendai 980, Japan
SO: J.-OCEANOGR.-SOC.-JAPAN-NIHON-KAIYO-GAKKAI 1989 vol. 45, no. 5, pp. 350-359
IS: ISSN 0029-8131
PY: 1989
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: My past academic history may be divided into three periods. In the first period (1955-71) at Kyoto University which included and eighteen month visit to the University of Chicago, I studied the production of air bubbles and droplets at the sea surface by wind-wave breaking, and the supply and distribution of the sea-salt particles from the sea to the atmosphere. The first nondimensional formulation of the form of single air bubbles floating at liquid surfaces was also presented. In the second period (1971-1981) I pursued, at the new Physical Oceanography Laboratory of Tohoku University, the concept of wind waves which are coupled with the wind. I proposed the 3/2-power law of wind waves and the high frequency part of the wind-wave spectral form which is proportional to the friction velocity of air and to the -4th power of frequency. Detailed investigations of wind-wave phenomena were also performed in wind-wave tunnels by introducing quantitative flow visualization techniques and together with my students, we elucidated ordered motions in the flows below and above wind waves. The Tohoku Wave Model was also developed in which the similarity laws of wind waves, which are strongly coupled with the air flow, were explicitly used. In the third period (1982-present), my area of interest has become broader and, together with my students and my overseas collaboratos, we are studying the connection of local physical processes at the air-sea boundary with studies of larger scale ocean-atmosphere interactions. One aspect of this has led to the organization of the Ocean Mixed Layer Experiment (OMLET, 1987-91), as part of the Japanese national programmes of the World Climate Research Programme. Another interest is the ongoing fundamental study of the use of satellite data for the estimation of air-sea fluxes over a broad area. Pursuit of the roots of the similarity laws of the windsea remains one of my present tasks.
DE: sea-surface; wind-waves; wind-driven-circulation; wind-driven-currents; geophysics-; air-sea-coupling
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9402297
AN: 3518616

                                                                     84 of 380
TI: Study of internal wave generation by tide-topography interaction. Lecture by the member awarded the Okada Prize of the Oceanographical Society of Japan for 1989
AU: Hibiya,-T.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., Univ. British Columbia, 6270 University Blvd., Vancouver, BC, V6T 1W5, Canada
SO: J.-OCEANOGR.-SOC.-JAPAN-NIHON-KAIYO-GAKKAI 1990 vol. 46, no. 1, pp. 21-32
IS: ISSN 0029-8131
PY: 1990
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The generation mechanism of internal waves by a relatively strong tidal flow over a sill is clarified analytically. Special attention is directed to the role of the tidal advection effect, which is examined by use of characteristics. An internal wave which propagates upstream is gradually formed through interference of infinitesimal amplitude internal waves (elementary waves) emanating from the sill at each instant of time. In the accelerating (or decelerating) stage of the tidal flow, the effective amplification of the internal wave takes place as the internal Froude number exceeds (or falls below) unity because during this period the internal wave slowly travels downstream (or upstream) while crossing over the sill where elementary waves are efficiently superimposed. In fact, the variability in the internal wave field actually observed in a realistic situation (Stellwagen Bank in Massachusetts Bay) is shown to be satisfactorily interpreted in terms of this mechanism. Furthermore, by using this analytical model, the relation between the strength of the tidal advection effect and the resulting internal waveform is clarified. This theory is easily extended to include a vertically sheared steady flow. In this case, although the fundamental generation mechanism is the same as above, the amplitude of the elementary wave varies with time depending on the relative direction of the tidal flow and steady shear flow, so that the internal wave field over the sill differs markedly between the ebb and flood tidal phases. As an example, the internal wave generation process over the sill in the Strait of Gibraltar is qualitatively discussed on the basis of this analytical model. The effect of vertical mixing caused by breaking of these large-amplitude internal waves on the coastal environment is also pointed out. In particular, a brief discussion is made on the control of water exchange by the fortnightly modulation of tidal mixing processes at the sills and constrictions in channels connecting freshwater sources with the ocean.
DE: internal-wave-generation; internal-tides; vertical-mixing; tidal-dynamics; bottom-topography-effects; wave-breaking
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9402163
AN: 3518590

                                                                     85 of 380
TI: Comparison of wind and wave forcing of longshore currents
AU: Whitford,-D.J.; Thornton,-E.B.
AF: Nav. Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA 93943, USA
SO: CONT.-SHELF-RES. 1993 vol. 13, no. 11, pp. 1205-1218
IS: ISSN 0278-4343
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wind and wave forcing of longshore currents for varying wind conditions and beach slopes are compared using a numerical model. Waves are assumed to be locally generated by the same winds and fully arisen. The finite-depth TMA wind-wave spectrum is used to describe the radiation stress spectrum. Total wind force acting across the surf zone is proportional to surf zone width and therefore inversely proportional to beach slope. Wind force is not important for steep beaches. Total wave force is dependent of wave energy flux and wave direction at breaking, which are functions of the wind speed and direction. Wind force becomes increasingly significant relative to wave force, as wind speed and incident wind direction approaches parallel to shore. For obliquely onshore winds and a gentle beach slope (tan  beta  = 0.01), wind force can be significant, with wind to wave force ratios ranging from 10 to 100% for winds between 10 and 30 m s super(-1) and wind and wave directions from 10 to 80 degree . Thus, under certain wind and wave conditions, wind force can be a first order term in the alongshore momentum balance.
DE: wind-driven-currents; longshore-currents; wave-action
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: MB9301134
AN: 3514449

                                                                     86 of 380
TI: Kinematics of breaking waves and associated suspended sediment in the nearshore zone
AU: Yu,-Y.; Sternberg,-R.W.; Beach,-R.A.
AF: Sch. Oceanogr., WB-10, Univ. Washington, Seattle, WA 98195, USA
SO: CONT.-SHELF-RES. 1993 vol. 13, no. 11, pp. 1219-1242
IS: ISSN 0278-4343
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper reports the results of a study to describe systematic variations in sea surface shape, horizontal and vertical velocity components, and nearbed suspended sediment concentrations as waves shoal, break and propagate shoreward as bores. Data were collected as part of the Duck '85 nearshore experiments carried out at the Army Research Facility at Duck, North Carolina in September 1985. The data set includes time series measurements of sea surface elevation, currents, and suspended sediment concentrations located at five positions across the surf zone. Additionally, a video recording of the sea surface was analyzed to classify surface wave types as unbroken, breaking (with or without associated form), or bores. Results show that the degree of asymmetry of wave shape increases as waves shoal and break. The cross-shore velocity varies systematically, being somewhat undulatory for unbroken waves and decomposing into large eddy structures upon breaking. The patterns of suspended sediment are strongly related to wave type. For unbroken waves, sediment suspensions can be high under the crest but occur within several centimeters of the seabed, on the order of the wave boundary layer thickness. For breaking waves, suspended sediment concentrations increase dramatically and sediment is mixed to higher levels in the water column. Sediment inversions and localized high concentration patches that appear to correspond to eddy motions impinging directly on the seabed are observed. For bores, overall sediment concentrations decrease as they propagate shoreward. The ratios of suspended load for the unbroken waves, breaking waves, and bores are 1:2.9:4 arrow right  1.3 (averaging 2.3), respectively. Maximum suspended load occurs just shoreward of the breakpoint and most sediment settles out within 10-15 m of the plunge point.
DE: breaking-waves; kinematics-; suspended-particulate-matter; nearshore-dynamics; wave-action; waves-; suspended-sediments; data-acquisition; hydrodynamics-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: MB9301135
AN: 3514448

                                                                     87 of 380
TI: Bedform dimensions and migration rates under shoaling and breaking waves
AU: Vincent,-C.E.; Osborne,-P.D.
AF: Sch. Environ. Sci., Univ. East Anglia, Norwich, NR4 7TJ, UK
SO: CONT.-SHELF-RES. 1993 vol. 13, no. 11, pp. 1267-1280
IS: ISSN 0278-4343
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Ripple wave lengths, heights and migration rates have been measured during mainly swell wave conditions on a macrotidal beach in the U.K. Three high frequency acoustic backscatter sensors were used to follow the changes of the bed position at three locations while a fourth was used in a side-scan mode to examine the wave lengths and movements of the bedforms over a 1 m shore-normal section. Two scales of bedforms are clearly visible; low amplitude ( similar to 0.5-2 cm) ripples with wavelengths of 7-20 cm and larger bedforms, usually correlating with lunate megaripples (LMR) observed by divers, which are 3-8 cm in height and 0.3-0.8 m wavelength. Both forms coexist outside the breakpoint under shoaling waves but in the surf zone the smaller ripples can be destroyed by plunging breakers and high orbital current speeds. The larger bedforms occurred in the surf zone during all the tidal cycles for which measurements were made and appear to be significant surf zone features. No significant correlation was observed between the wave lengths of the small ripples and the orbital excursion A sub(0) nor with the wave Reynolds number, Shields number or Mobility number, but the migration rate was significantly correlated (at 99%) with all these parameters. Conversely, for the larger bedforms, significant correlation was found for the wave lengths but not the migration rates. We conclude that deployment of high frequency ABS in a side-scan mode is a simple and relative effective method for obtaining bedform measurements in the surf zone.
DE: bed-forms; breaking-waves; nearshore-dynamics; ripple-marks
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: MB9301137
AN: 3514446

                                                                     88 of 380
TI: Energy loss by breaking waves
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., The Univ., Southampton SO9 5NH, UK
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1993 vol. 23, no. 11, pp. 2498-2502
IS: ISSN 0022-3670
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Observations of the frequency of wind wave breaking in deep water are combined with laboratory estimates of the rate of energy loss a from single breaking wave to infer the net rate of energy transfer to the mixed layer from breaking waves, as a function of wind speed. Breaking waves with wavelengths much shorter than the dominant waves can contribute energy at a rate that is a significant fraction of the total turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate in the ocean surface mixed layer.
DE: energy-loss; waves-; energy-transfer; air-water-interface; wind-; surface-mixed-layer; breaking-waves; wind-waves; energy-transfer; wave-breaking; wave-energy; air-sea-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9402687
AN: 3512563

                                                                     89 of 380
TI: Model of frontogenesis: Subduction and upwelling
AU: Wang,-Dong-Ping
AF: Mar. Sci. Res. Cent., SUNY, Stony Brook, NY 11794-5000, USA
SO: J.-MAR.-RES. 1993 vol. 51, no. 3, pp. 497-513
IS: ISSN 0022-2402
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A high-resolution, three-dimensional, primitive-equation model is used to study frontogenesis. The initial state includes a surface front and geostrophic jet. A small initial disturbance grows rapidly into a steepened backward-breaking wave, characterized by narrow wave trough and broad wave crest. Analysis of the energetics indicates that the unstable waves are generated by baroclinic instability. The wavelength scales as the baroclinic deformation radius, but the growth rate appears to be much faster than found in previous primitive-equation model studies. The predicted downward velocity also is an order of magnitude greater than found in previous model studies. As the amplitude of unstable wave becomes very large, a narrow density front whose width is less than the deformation radius, is formed in the wave trough. The frontal zone is marked by high cyclonic vorticity (relative vorticity > f) and intense surface subduction (50-100 m/day). The frontogenesis is caused by the interaction between synoptic-scale confluence and mesoscale convergence. The strong vertical circulation associated with frontal waves may play a major role in the material exchange and biological production in frontal zone.
DE: oceanic-fronts; frontogenesis-; subduction-; upwelling-; modelling-; baroclinic-instability
CL: Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-TSD-distribution,-water-masses-and-circulation-2146
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9402071
AN: 3510965

                                                                     90 of 380
TI: Sea surface signatures related to subaqueous dunes detected by acoustic and radar sensors
AU: Hennings,-I.; Pasenau,-H.; Werner,-F.
AF: GEOMAR, Forschungszent. Mar. Geowissenschaften, Univ. Kiel, Wischhofstrasse 103, D-2300 Kiel 14, FRG
SO: CONT.-SHELF-RES. 1993 vol. 13, no. 8-9, pp. 1023-1043
IS: ISSN 0278-4343
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Side-scan sonar records and radar images of the Lister Tief in the German Bight of the North Sea have been analysed. The radar data show signatures on the sea surface which are related to irregularities in the submarine seabed. Some side-scan and radar data from the test area were taken at different dates, but at the same tidal phase and under comparable weather conditions. Existing one-dimensional models of the radar imaging mechanism predict extremes in radar backscatter above maximum slope regions of subaqueous dunes. However, the acoustic data obtained during the ebb tidal phase do not always show an enhanced background noise and backscattering strength modulation directly above maximum slopes of the dunes. A large variation of the position of background noise has been observed. The experimental acoustic data contradict the results of existing radar imaging models. The sonographs showed that regions with increased background noise at close range (< 5 m) are often associated with signatures of enhanced backscatter at ranges farther away (< 40 m) or at lower grazing angles (< 30 degree ). We conclude that the modulation of scattering strength can be attributed to regions of air bubbles generated by turbulence and breaking water waves. Simulations of the radar cross-section modulation above the large slopes of dunes are too large to remain within the bounds of the weak hydrodynamic interaction theory in the relaxation time approximation. Therefore, this theory is not applicable in the sea area of the Lister Tief. Furthermore, the hydrodynamic mechanism of standing waves or stationary surface deformations associated with dunes is discussed.
DE: bottom-topography-effects; sea-surface; dunes-; topographic-features; side-scan-sonar; radar-imagery; ANE,-Germany,-German-Bight
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Topography-and-morphology-2263
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
IC: MB9300705
AN: 3510084

                                                                     91 of 380
TI: Lagrangian study of planktonic organisms: Perspectives
AU: Yamazaki,-H.
AF: Cent. Earth and Ocean Res., Univ. Victoria, Victoria, BC V8W 2Y2, Canada
CO: Zooplankton Ecology Symp., Appleton, WI (USA), 21-25 Aug 1991
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-ZOOPLANKTON-ECOLOGY-SYMPOSIUM-AUGUST-21-25,-1991,-LAWRENCE-UNIVERSITY,-APPLETON,-WISCONSIN. Paffenhoefer,-G.-A.;Donaghay,-P.L.;Strickler,-J.R.;Richman,-S.-eds. 1993 vol. 53, no. 1 pp. 265-278
IS: ISSN 0007-4977
ST: BULL.-MAR.-SCI. vol. 53, no. 1
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Recent numerical studies of turbulent flow show the presence of "organized structures" within the flow. I will speculate on the behavior of planktonic organisms in conjunction with such structures. Breaking waves cause an enormous number of bubbles at the ocean surface, and the Langmuir circulation transports them into deeper sections of water. Rising bubbles can induce a flotation process and complicate the environment of plankton. Hence, I also provide conjecture on the possible role of bubbles for productivity in the upper ocean. To properly take these small-scale non-linear processes into account, we must use Lagrangian models. I will introduce two Lagrangian models which mimic an aggregation of planktonic organisms.
DE: plankton-; turbulent-flow; transport-processes; Langmuir-circulation; biological-production; organism-aggregations; models-; air-bubbles; breaking-waves; upper-ocean; bubbles-; water-flow; aggregation-
ID: Lagrangian-models
CL: Aquatic-Communities:-Plankton-1461
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
IC: CS9400243
AN: 3507916

                                                                     92 of 380
TI: Nonlinear barotropic tides and bores in estuaries
AU: Muenchow,-A.; Garvine,-R.W.
AF: Coll. Mar. Stud., Univ. Delaware, Newark, DE 19716, USA
SO: TELLUS-A-DYN.-METEOROL.-OCEANOGR. 1991 vol. 43A, no. 3, pp. 246-256
IS: ISSN 0280-6495
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: B (Brackish)
AB: The propagation of tides from the coastal ocean into shallow estuarine waters often produces characteristic nonlinearly induced asymmetries of velocity and water level in time series. Until recently (Aubrey and Speer, 1985) a sound physical understanding of related phenomena has been difficult to obtain as flow field data are rare. Numerical studies usually model a single estuary only; the modeled parameter space is often limited. From the vertically averaged governing equations that include nonlinear terms and bottom friction, we deduce that three dimensionless parameters set the character of the barotropic tidal response for channel shaped estuaries. We then develop a time-dependent numerical model based on the method of Lax and Wendroff. We use the model to explore the response over a wide range of the three parameters. Tidal responses include damped waves, hydraulic regimes, and tidal wave breaking or bore development. Where field data are available in the case of the Conwy Estuary, UK, water level and velocity compare favorably with model prediction.
DE: estuarine-dynamics; tidal-bores; barotropic-tides; wave-propagation; nonlinearity-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9400393
AN: 3506274

                                                                     93 of 380
TI: Extreme wave action on large horizontal cylinders located above still water level
AU: Chan,-Eng-Soon
AF: Natl. Univ. Singapore, Singapore
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 121-128
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper presents the results from an experimental study of plunging wave action on a large horizontal cylinder in the splash zone. Impact pressures are found to range from localised impulsive pressures with time scales in the range of 0.001T to synchronous low frequency pressure oscillations with oscillation time scales around 0.01T (T is the characteristic wave period). The highly impulsive cases, with peak pressures ranging from 4 rho C super(2) to 33 rho C super(2), is associated with minimal entrapped air at impact ( rho  is the water density and C is the characteristic phase speed of the wave). The highest peak pressure is obtained when the profile of the incident wave front is concentric to the cylinder boundary. Peak pressures as high as 5.4 rho C super(2) are obtained when a large pocket of air is entrapped by the plunging wave front at impact. The entrapped air also leads to synchronous pressure oscillations over a substantial region of the cylinder's surface, covering an angular zone of about 105 degree . The corresponding peak impact force is about 8.6 rho C super(2)R where R is the radius of the cylinder. Overall, the incident wave profile trajectory and the entrapped air are found to influence the impact load significantly. (DBO).
DE: wave-dynamics; wave-action; wave-forces; splash-zone; oscillatory-waves; wave-breaking; mean-sea-level; wave-crests
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303056
AN: 3503453

                                                                     94 of 380
TI: Computation of wave breaking on sloping beach by VOF method
AU: Wang,-Yongxue; Su,-Tsung-chow
AF: Dalian Univ. Technol., Dalian, China
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 96-101
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this paper, the solitary wave deformation and breaking process along a sloping beach is investigated by using the improved volume of fluid method. As the initial conditions of the incident wave, Laitone's second order formulas for the free surface profile, velocity and pressure fields of a solitary wave are employed. Comparisons with the laboratory experimental data of the wave height on the slope are presented. The numerical computation have been carried out for several configuration of beach slopes with m = 1:2, 1:4, 1:8 and 1:20. Kinematics of the wave during propagation on a sloping beach is investigated. For a steep slope, the internal velocity field on the sloping beach is demonstrated in detail during run-up and run-down of the non-breaking wave. For a gentle slope, the phenomena of wave breaking such as wave steepening, overturning and bore formation have been successfully simulated by an improved VOF method. (DBO).
DE: solitary-waves; wave-breaking; kinematics-; shoaling-; comparative-studies; wave-runup; coastal-boundry-layer; Navier-Stokes-equations
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303061
AN: 3503448

                                                                     95 of 380
TI: Wave breaking phenomena of irregular waves combined with opposing current
AU: Li,-Yu-cheng; Dong,-Guo-hai
AF: Dalian Univ. Technol. Dalian, China
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 64-70
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Based on experimental test and theoretical analysis, it is suggested by authors that the critical value of relative wave height (H/d) sub(b) given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H/L) sub(b) given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular wave. H and L are wave height and wave length respectively, d is the water depth, subscript b means the value at breaking point. According to the same principle, a systematic theoretical analysis and experiment of irregular waves has been done by authors in order to solve the breaking problem of irregular waves. It is indicated that the authors' method for determining wave breaking of regular wave can also be used in irregular waves. (DBO).
DE: wave-breaking; wave-interactions; current-direction; wavelength-; wave-height; water-depth; wave-dynamics; water-wave-parameters
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303066
AN: 3503443

                                                                     96 of 380
TI: Acoustical measurement of laboratory breaking waves
AU: Kolaini,-A.R.
AF: Univ. Mississippi, Oxford, MS, USA
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 57-63
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The results of a laboratory experiment to characterize the underwater sound field radiated by breaking waves is described. Waves are generated by a computer controlled plunging-type wavemaker that propagate along a 40' long channel and break at the surface of an 12'x12'x8' anechoic water tank. Attention has been given to the understanding of the relation between the dynamics of breaking and the sound generated by breaking waves. Detailed measurements of the void fraction distribution of the bubble cloud generated by energetic spilling breaking waves shows that significant air entrainment occurs. The knowledge of the void fraction distributions may help provide an understanding of the coupling between surface waves and air-sea gas transfer. Two significant findings are presented. First, bubble clouds with high void fraction may oscillate collectively and radiate sound at frequencies much lower than the resonant frequency of the individual bubbles. Second, the low-frequency collective sound, which is dependent upon the void fraction distribution, is emitted when the cross-sectional area of the bubble cloud reaches its maximum growth. These results supplement recent ocean acoustic measurements in the presence of breaking waves. (DBO).
DE: wave-dynamics; wave-breaking; acoustic-properties; wave-tanks; surface-water-waves; air-sea-interaction; bubbles-; wave-energy
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303067
AN: 3503442

                                                                     97 of 380
TI: Wind forcing and breaking dissipation effects on nonlinear evolution of energetic wave groups
AU: Li,-J.J.
AF: Univ. California, Santa Barbara, CA, USA
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 52-56
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The shape of travelling non-linear wave-groups and their characteristics are deduced from an appropriate wave system evolution equation taking into account wind forcing and breaking dissipation. A variety of solutions are found ranging from uniform waves to single soliton wave groups. These solutions are constrained using exact energy balance relations and by using relations between wave group size and wave steepness which arise from wave stability considerations. Useful results are obtained and comparisons are made with the wave group field observations of Su (1986) and Holthuijsen and Herbers (1986). (DBO).
DE: wave-dynamics; wave-breaking; wave-groups; wave-dissipation; nonlinear-wave-interactions; wave-energy; wind-waves; wave-steepness
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303068
AN: 3503441

                                                                     98 of 380
TI: Laboratory measurements of breaking inception and post-breaking dynamics of steep short crested waves
AU: Kolaini,-A.R.; Tulin,-M.P.
AF: Univ. Mississippi, Oxford, MS, USA
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 45-51
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Monochromatic short crested waves have been produced in a laboratory flume using a shaped wavemaker in the Ocean Engineering Laboratory at UCSB. Breaking has been observed to occur near the peak in the amplitude modulation of these waves, over a range of local wave steepness. The conditions for inception and the post-breaking morphology (breaker area, height, length) and dynamics were observed photographically, and are quantified. Breaking inception was observed over a wide range of wave steepness (H sub(i)/gT super(2)) from 0.011 to 0.0335. The latter is in excess of the Stokes limiting steepness for planar waves, and an explanation is suggested based on calculated reductions in crest orbital velocity due to short crestedness. Variations in breaker severity from one wave cycle to the next are observed and are believed to be due to the disturbances left in the water by preceding breakers. A small jet was observed at the initiation of the breaking wave, and a simple estimate of jet dimension is given, based on observed breaker growth rates. (DBO).
DE: wave-dynamics; wave-tanks; wave-trains; short-crested-waves; wave-steepness; wave-data; wave-direction; wave-motion
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303069
AN: 3503440

                                                                     99 of 380
TI: Surface roughness in the wake of a steady breaking wave
AU: Duncan,-J.H.
AF: Univ. Maryland, College Park, MD, USA
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 39-44
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The breaking waves generated by a two-dimensional hydrofoil moving near a free surface at constant speed, angle of attack and depth of submergence are studied experimentally. The measurements include the mean and fluctuating shape of the breaking wave, the amplitude of the residual wave train following the breaker and the fluctuating surface height downstream of the breaker. It is found that the root-mean-square amplitude of the surface fluctuations on the breaking region of the wave increases with increasing speed and with decreasing depth of submergence of the hydrofoil. The root-mean-square amplitude of the fluctuations in the first trough behind the breaker shows a similar behavior. As the distance behind the breaker increase this amplitude generally decreases but shows an oscillation with the phase of the wave train following the breaker. This oscillation is such that the values are larger at the crests and smaller at the troughs of the following wave. The spectrum of these waves is highly peaked and shows little variation in shape over the first 3 wavelengths of the following wave. (DBO).
DE: wave-breaking; surface-roughness; wave-measurement; wakes-; wave-spectra; wave-height; oscillatory-waves; wave-train
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303070
AN: 3503439

                                                                    100 of 380
TI: Bow impact and deck wetness: Simulations based on nonlinear slender body theory
AU: Song,-W.; Maruo,-H.
AF: Yokohama Natl. Univ., Yokohama, Japan
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 34-38
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A simplified formulation for the fully nonlinear flow field around a ship moving through ocean waves at finite forward speed is achieved using the slender body theory. The computational scheme is based on the boundary integral method and several numerical techniques are employed to overcome difficulties on the boundary as at the intersection of the hull and the free surface. For a frigate model, simulations of bow wave breaking are carried out and the onset of deck wetness shows good agreement with experiment. (DBO).
DE: wave-breaking; ship-design; hulls-; nonlinear-wave-interactions; fluid-motion; boundries-; wave-energy; ship-speed
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Surface-vehicles-2301
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303071
AN: 3503438

                                                                    101 of 380
TI: Wave group evolution, wave deformation, and breaking: Simulations using LONGTANK, a numerical wave tank
AU: Wang,-P.; Yao,-Y.; Tulin,-M.P.
AF: Univ. California, Santa Barbara, CA, USA
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. CHung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 27-33
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Non-linear, planar wave trains have been simulated numerically using an efficient computational method. This method utilizes matrix diagonalization, based on multi-subdomains. The waves are created by a plunging wedge wavemaker and followed to downtank distances, x/ lambda  of O(10 super(2)). High resolution of wave shapes has been obtained. This numerical tank, LONGTANK, has been used to study non-linear sideband growth, strong group evolution, wave deformation, energy redistribution in the deformed waves, and jet formation (breaking). Comparisons of steepness at breaking and distance to breaking, as they depend on wave steepness, have been made, with excellent agreement. Similar agreement is shown between simulated and photographed wave shapes in the final stages of breaking. A criterion for the onset of breaking is suggested by the simulations. (DBO).
DE: wave-dynamics; wave-breaking; wave-trains; wave-energy; wave-groups; wave-tanks; simulation-; water-depth
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303072
AN: 3503437

                                                                    102 of 380
TI: Statistical properties of random waves in surf zone
AU: Yang,-Wen-Hen; Tung,-Chi-Chao
AF: Natl. Taiwan Ocean Univ., Keelung, Taiwan, China
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., ISOPE '93, Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-THIRD-1993-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE,-SINGAPORE.-VOLUME-3. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.;Kim,-C.H.-eds. International-Soc.-of-Offshore-and-Polar-Engineers-ISOPE,-Golden,-CO-USA GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 pp. 9-15
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7
ST: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF.
RN: (Vol. 3); 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (31880653052Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In the study, the behavior of a random wave train in the surf zone is investigated. An ideal, original, linear, Gaussian wave train of finite bandwidth propagating from deep water through shoaling region and surf zone onto a straight beach over gently varying seabed of straight parallel contours is allowed to break. The statistical properties examined are mean value, standard deviation and spectrum of breaking waves and mean water level variation. (DBO).
DE: random-processes; surf-zone; wave-trains; Gaussian-distribution; breaking-waves; finite-amplitude-waves; water-depth; mean-sea-level
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9303075
AN: 3503434

                                                                    103 of 380
TI: Dissipation source function and improvement of LAGFD-WAM numerical wave model
AU: Yuan,-Yeli; Hua,-Feng; Pan,-Zengdi; Sun,-Letao
AF: 1st Inst. Oceanogr., SOA, Qingdao 266003, People's Rep. China
SO: OCEANOL.-LIMNOL.-SIN.-HAIYANG-YU-HUZHAO 1993 vol. 24, no. 4, pp. 367-376
IS: ISSN 0029-814X
PY: 1993
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
DE: wave-statistics; breaking-waves; functional-analysis; mathematical-models; wind-fields
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9300969
AN: 3501680

                                                                    104 of 380
TI: Physical processes of microwave backscattering from laboratory wind wave surfaces
AU: Ebuchi,-N.; Kawamura,-H.; Toba,-Y.
AF: Fac. Sci., Tohoku Univ., Aoba, Sendai, Japan
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS 1993 vol. 98, no. C8, pp. 14,669-14,681
IS: ISSN 0148-0227
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Physical processes of microwave backscattering from wind wave surfaces are investigated in a wind wave tunnel by using a X-band (9.6 GHz) microwave scatterometer. Detailed analysis of time series of the backscattered intensity and Doppler spectrum shows that the physical processes of microwave backscattering are closely associated with the processes of the wind wave field. At slant incidence (45 degree ) the backscattered intensity is in phase with the wave profile, and the Doppler velocity also follows the phase of the individual waves with high Doppler velocity observed at the crests of the individual waves. This velocity is equal to the propagating speed of the crests. It is concluded that the fine structures of wind wave surfaces, which are trapped near the crests and propagating with the crests, are the main contributor to microwave backscattering. It is also pointed out that the effect of wave breaking with bubble entrainment on the microwave backscattering is not significant under the condition of the present experiment. At normal incidence the backscattered intensity has a different phase relationship with the wave profile. The intensity has two peaks, one at the crest and the other at the trough of the individual waves. The peak at the trough is stronger than that at the crest. This result is consistent with specular point scattering and also with the asymmetrical features of young laboratory wind waves. At intermediate incident angles, backscattering processes are rather complicated because both specular point scattering and Bragg resonance scattering contribute to the radar backscattering.
DE: scatterometers-; backscatter-; remote-sensing-equipment; wind-waves; microwaves-; air-sea-interaction; sea-surface
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9319637
AN: 3051174

                                                                    105 of 380
TI: Approach to calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height
AU: Liang,-Wang; Heng,-Du
AF: Hohai Univ., Nanjing 210024, People's Rep. China
SO: CHINA-OCEAN-ENG. 1993 vol. 7, no. 1, pp. 85-98
IS: ISSN 0890-5487
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Engineers in coastal engineering have been paying much attention to the research subject on wave breaking. In this paper, previous research results on the calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height are enumerated, the laws of wave transformation before and after wave breaking are investigated, an adequate supposition is made, and the effect of beach slope, bed friction and breaking turbulence on wave breaking is considered. By applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate and combining with proper formulas of solitary waves, a new calculating formula of wave breaking depth and height on the movable bed is derived and examined with the data from experimental pools of different sizes, and it is proved to be of practicability.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-height; wave-energy; wave-dissipation; coastal-engineering; beach-slope; bed-roughness; mathematical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9317734
AN: 3027232

                                                                    106 of 380
TI: Effects of wave-induced lightflecks in the intertidal zone on photosynthesis in the macroalgae Postelsia palmaeformis and Hedophyllum sessile (Phaeophyceae)
AU: Wing,-S.R.; Patterson,-M.R.
AF: Div. Environ. Stud., Univ. California, Davis, CA 95616, USA
SO: MAR.-BIOL. 1993 vol. 116, no. 3, pp. 519-525
IS: ISSN 0025-3162
NT: Bibliogr.: 25 ref.
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Intertidal algae are exposed to a highly variable photic regime because of crashing waves. We measured photosynthetic rate of whole fronds of the seaweeds Postelsia palmaeformis and Hedophyllum sessile in flashing and steady-state photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) of equal irradiance, using a recirculating metabolism chamber designed to minimize the thickness of diffusional boundary layers on the surfaces of algal tissues. The dimensionless ratio of photosynthetic rate under flecking PAR (P sub(fleck)) and the sum of photosynthetic rate under steady state PAR (P sub(s)) of high and low irradiance was computed for lightfleck periods from 0.2 to 100 s. P sub(fleck):P sub(s) is a measure of the light-flash utilization-efficiency in flashing light, and was greater than unity at periods between lightflecks of 2 to 30 s, with a perk at 10 s. We used a novel optical fiber irradiance meter to measure PAR incident on fronds of P. palmaeformis as they were washed about by waves breaking in the intertidal zone, and compared the light records to that obtained by a stationary sensor under the canopy. PAR flashing period was closely correlated with the period of breaking waves in stands of P. palmaeformis.
DE: photosynthesis-; light-effects; light-intensity; irradiance-; wave-effects; wave-spectra; plant-metabolism; seaweeds-; primary-production; Postelsia-palmaeformis; Hedophyllum-sessile; INE,-USA,-California; energy-flow; Carpophyllum-maschalocarpum; Hormosira-banksii; Ecklonia-radiata; Phaeophyta-
CL: Productivity,-Ecosystems,-Species-Interactions:-Productivity-1481
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
IC: BF9301679
AN: 3024541

                                                                    107 of 380
TI: The Proceedings of the Third (1993) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, Singapore. Volume 3
AU: Chung,-J.S.; Isaacson,-M.; Maeda,-H.; Kim,-C.H.-(eds.)
CA: International Soc. of Offshore and Polar Engineers (ISOPE), Golden, CO (USA)
CO: 3. (1993) Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., Singapore (Singapore), 6-11 Jun 1993
SO: PROC.-INT.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG.-CONF. GOLDEN,-CO-USA ISOPE 1993 720 pp
IS: ISBN 1-880653-08-7 (Vol.
RN: 1-880653-05-2 (Set) (Set)
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The third conference, the Third International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference (ISOPE-93), Singapore, June 6-11, 1993, features 3 plenary and 72 technical sessions from industry, academia and government. Authors present recent international developments and review of frontier technologies in global offshore and Arctic petroleum/technology, offshore installations, offshore mechanics/technology, hydrodynamics and structural mechanics, risers and cables, pipelines, steel and composite materials, welding, corrosion, tubular structures, polar (Arctic and Antarctic) technology, ice technology, atmospheric icing, ocean energy, geotechnical engineering, advanced ship technology, underwater vehicles and robotics, superconducting MHD propulsion and other emerging topics. The ISOPE-93 proceedings are printed in 4 volumes. This volume, containing 102 papers, focuses on waves, breaking waves, coastal engineering, hydrodynamic forces, dynamic responses, higher-order effects, vortex shedding and oscillations, wind and current effects, and laboratory modeling.
DE: conferences-; hydrodynamics-; wave-dynamics; breaking-waves; coastal-engineering; vortex-shedding; oscillations-; modelling-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; General-Aspects:-Conferences,-meetings,-etc.-2106; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-General-2321
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9302967
AN: 3021994

                                                                    108 of 380
TI: Breaking wave forces on a vertical cylinder
AU: Chaplin,-J.R.; Flintham,-T.P.
CA: Health and Safety Exec., London (UK)
SO: OFFSHORE-TECHNOL.-REP. LONDON-UK HMSO 1990 70 pp
IS: ISBN 0-11-881220-5
RN: OTH-90-324 (OTH90324)
PY: 1990
LA: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
DE: wave-forces; breaking-waves; cylindrical-structures; offshore-structures
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9316921
AN: 3005707

                                                                    109 of 380
TI: Distribution of crest amplitudes in severe seas with breaking
AU: Kriebel,-D.L.; Dawson,-T.H.
AF: Ocean Eng. Program, U.S. Nav. Acad., Annapolis, MD 21402, USA
CO: 11. Int. Symp. and Exhibit on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, Calgary, AB (Canada), 7-11 Jun 1992
SO: J.-OFFSHORE-MECH.-ARCT.-ENG. 1993 vol. 115, no. 1, pp. 9-15
IS: ISSN 0892-7219
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A theoretical model is presented for the probability distribution of wave crest amplitudes in severe seas states with wave breaking. As the severity of a sea state increases, nonlinearities cause an increase in the amplitudes of the largest wave crests with a subsequent modification of the distribution of wave crest amplitudes from the linear Rayleigh theory. In this paper, a theory for the probabilities of these nonlinear crest amplitudes is first reviewed based on earlier work. The further limitations on these nonlinear crest amplitudes by wave breaking are then considered. As a result, a theoretical model is presented to account for both: 1) the nonlinear increase in the highest wave crests, and 2) the selective reduction of some fraction of these high crests due to wave breaking. This model is then verified using several sets of laboratory data for severe breaking seas having approximate JONSWAP wave spectra.
DE: offshore-engineering; hydrodynamics-; wave-forces; wave-crests; breaking-waves; wave-breaking; mathematical-models
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9316549
AN: 3005569

                                                                    110 of 380
TI: Random wave interaction with structures.
AU: Goda,-Y.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Yokohama Natl. Univ., Yokohama, Japan
SO: HANDBOOK-OF-COASTAL-AND-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-VOLUME-1.-WAVE-PHENOMENA-AND-COASTAL-STRUCTURES. Herbich,-J.B.-ed. HOUSTON,-TX-USA GULF-PUBLISHING-CO. 1990. pp. 835-858
IS: ISBN 0-87201-461-4
PY: 1990
LA: English
PT: B (Book)
AB: The fundamental property of sea waves is their randomness. When the first coastal engineering conference was held at Long Beach, California in 1950, the concept of random waves was not familiar to coastal engineers. Thus, various formulas and techniques to evaluate wave transformation and action upon structures were derived only with regular monochromatic waves. At present, however, the randomness of sea waves is well known. As it will be shown in this chapter, wave randomness can yield different results in wave transformation and action on structures compared with the results obtained with regular waves. Wave refraction, shoaling, diffraction, and breaking are discussed in this chapter. The overtopping rate of seawalls, wave transmission behind breakwaters, and design wave pressure for vertical breakwaters are also discussed.
DE: offshore-engineering; hydrodynamics-; wave-forces; offshore-structures; nonlinear-wave-interactions; overtopping-; numerical-analysis
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9302604
AN: 3005043

                                                                    111 of 380
TI: Stream function wave theory and applications.
AU: Dean,-R.G.
AF: Coastal and Oceanogr. Eng. Dep., Univ. Florida, Gainesville, FL 32601, USA
SO: HANDBOOK-OF-COASTAL-AND-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-VOLUME-1.-WAVE-PHENOMENA-AND-COASTAL-STRUCTURES. Herbich,-J.B.-ed. HOUSTON,-TX-USA GULF-PUBLISHING-CO. 1990. pp. 63-94
IS: ISBN 0-87201-461-4
PY: 1990
LA: English
PT: B (Book)
AB: The stream function (SF) wave theory (1-4) is of analytical form with the wave-length, L, coefficients, X(n), and value of stream function on the free surface,  psi  sub( eta ), determined numerically. This chapter introduces the reader, through application, to the stream function tables. The results in the stream function tables are presented in non-dimensional form for ten values of relative water depth, h/L sub(o), and for each relative water depth, four values of relative wave height, H/L sub(o), at relative breaking heights of 0.25, 0.50, 0.75, and 1.0. At each of these pairs, (h/L sub(o), H/L sub(o)), fairly complete geometric, kinematic, and dynamic information is presented in non-dimensional form.
DE: offshore-engineering; water-wave-motion; wave-dynamics; breaking-waves; stream-functions; wave-height; numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9302590
AN: 3004894

                                                                    112 of 380
TI: Wind-based models for estimating the dissipation rates of turbulent energy in aquatic environments: Empirical comparisons.
AU: MacKenzie,-B.R.; Leggett,-W.C.
AF: Danish Inst. Fish. and Mar. Res., Charlottenlund Castle, DK-2920 Charlottenlund, Denmark
SO: MAR.-ECOL.-PROG.-SER. 1993. vol. 94, no. 3, pp. 207-216
IS: ISSN 0171-8630
NT: Bibliogr.: 58 ref.
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The rate at which turbulent kinetic energy is dissipated influences growth, encounter probability, coagulation rates and vertical distribution of plankton. In this study we quantified the effectiveness with which boundary (wall) layer theory represents turbulent dissipation rates ( epsilon , W m super(-3)) measured within natural surface mixing layers. This model explained 58% of the variance in 818 literature-derived estimates of turbulent dissipation rates measured at 11 different geographic sites. The residual mean square error (RMSE) associated with the regression of log sub(10) observed dissipation rate vs log sub(10) predicted dissipation rate showed that ca 68% of surface layer dissipation rates observed in nature were within a factor  plus or minus  5.2-fold of dissipation rates estimated using boundary layer theory. Dissipation rates in more complex mixing environments, where turbulence was known to be caused by additional hydrographic phenomena (free convection, breaking of waves in the upper 1.5 m of the water column, current shear, upwelling), exceeded the boundary layer prediction by 1.5- to 26-fold depending on the mechanism associated with turbulence-generation. We found no evidence that turbulence near the surface (0 to 5 or 0 to 10 m) during high winds ( greater than or equal to  7.5 or  greater than or equal to  10/ms) was higher than the boundary layer prediction. When all data were combined into one data set, n = 1088), a multiple regression model having wind speed (W) and sampling depth (z) as inputs (log  epsilon  = 2.688 log W - 1.322 log z - 4.812) explained 54% of the variance in surface layer turbulent dissipation rates (RMSE +  plus or minus  5.5-fold).
DE: turbulent-boundary-layer; kinetic-energy; vertical-distribution; biological-production; coagulation-; phytoplankton-; zooplankton-; surface-mixed-layer; turbulence-; wave-dissipation; Literature-reviews; Northern-Hemisphere-Oceans
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Productivity,-Ecosystems,-Species-Interactions:-Ecosystems-and-energetics-1482
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); ASFA --1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
IC: BF9301306
AN: 3001759

                                                                    113 of 380
TI: Classification of breaking wave loads on vertical structures.
AU: Oumeraci,-H.; Klammer,-P.; Partenscky,-H.W.
AF: Franzius-Inst. Univ. of Hannover, SFB 205, Nienburgerstr. 4, 3000 Hannover 1, FRG
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1993. vol. 119, no. 4, pp. 381-397
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements of impact pressures and forces together with simultaneous video records of the wave motion at and in front of caisson breakwaters were performed in a wave flume. Based on the results of this model study, criteria are developed for wave-breaking and breaker-type classification in the presence of vertical structures. As a result, four main breaker types are identified and discussed. The corresponding impact loads (pressure, pressure distribution, and total forces) are described. The results obtained suggest that the observed breaker shapes can now be identified by the recorded force histories, as well as by the impact pressure histories and distributions, without any use of the corresponding video pictures. The effect of the caisson front geometry on the impact forces is also briefly discussed. It is concluded that the shape of both the colliding breaker and structure front must be accounted for in the future prediction of impact loads.
DE: breaking-waves; coastal-structures; wave-forces; loads-forces; classification-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9314671
AN: 2991909

                                                                    114 of 380
TI: Evolution of maximum amplitude of solitary waves on plane beaches.
AU: Synolakis,-C.E.; Skjelbreia,-J.E.
AF: Sch. Eng., Univ. Southern California, Los Angeles, CA 90089-2531, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1993. vol. 119, no. 3, pp. 323-343
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper presents a study of the transformation of solitary waves on plane beaches. A series of laboratory experiments is presented to describe the amplitude evolution of long waves; these experiments suggest that at least four different regions exist for the functional variation of the maximum amplitude, two regions before and two regions after breaking. Linear theory is used to provide an expression for the growth of solitary waves evolving first over constant depth and then over a sloping bottom, including reflection. This result is shown to be equivalent to the wave evolution expression known as Green's law, and the limitations of Green's original derivation are discussed. Other existing analytical results and certain empirical relationships are used to produce a formulation consistent with the laboratory data with the objective to model the entire process of solitary wave evolution.
DE: solitary-waves; wave-amplitude; beaches-; breaking-waves; Green'-s-function; modelling-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9314675
AN: 2991905

                                                                    115 of 380
TI: Convolution method for time-dependent beach-profile response.
AU: Kriebel,-D.L.; Dean,-R.G.
AF: Nav. Arch., Ocean, Mar. Eng. Dep., U.S. Nav. Acad., Annapolis, MD 21402, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1993. vol. 119, no. 2, pp. 204-227
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A simple analytical solution is presented for approximating the time-dependent beach-profile response to severe storms. This solution is in the form of a convolution integral involving a time-varying erosion-forcing function and an exponential erosion-response function. The erosion-forcing function reflects changes in the nearshore water level and breaking wave height. In this paper, an idealized storm-surge hydrograph is considered from which an analytic solution is obtained for beach and dune erosion associated with severe storms such as hurricanes or northeasters. It is shown that for a given initial beach geometry and sediment size, the peak water level and the incipient breaking wave height determine the maximum erosion potential that would be achieved if the beach were allowed to respond to equilibrium. Because of the assumed exponential erosion rate, beach response obtained from the convolution method is found to lag the erosion forcing in time, and is damped relative to the maximum erosion potential such that only a fraction of the equilibrium response actually occurs.
DE: beach-profiles; storms-; time-series; erosion-; breaking-waves; wave-forces
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9314683
AN: 2991897

                                                                    116 of 380
TI: Shoaling and decay of two wave trains on beach.
AU: McKee-Smith,-J.; Vincent,-C.L.
AF: U.S. Army Eng. Watrways Exp. Stn., Coast. Eng., Res. Cent., 3909 Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1992. vol. 118, no. 5, pp. 517-533
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Shoaling and decay of irregular wave trains with two distinct frequency peaks are simulated in a wave flume. The relative energy in each wave train, the closeness of the frequency peaks, and the total wave energy were varied over 12 cases. Wave-gauge measurements across the 1:30 plane slope in the flume show that linear superposition of single-peaked wave trains or lumping all energy into the dominant wave train are not satisfactory representations of multiple wave trains. The measurements also show that the wave train with the low-frequency peak dominates in the surf zone. Waves with the low-frequency peak appear unaffected by the second wave train, but the high-frequency wave train decays faster in the presence of the low-frequency waves. The variation of wave height through shoaling and breaking depends on the relative amount of energy in each of the wave trains and the closeness of the peak frequencies.
DE: wave-trains; shoaling-waves; beaches-; wave-energy; surface-water-waves
ID: irregular-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9314705
AN: 2991875

                                                                    117 of 380
TI: Effects of bottom friction on wave breaking using RCPWAVE model.
AU: Maa,-J.P.-Y.; Kim,-S.-C.
AF: Virginia Inst. Mar. Sci. Sch. Mar. Sci., Coll. William and Mary, Gloucester Point, VA 23062, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1992. vol. 118, no. 4, pp. 387-400
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The effects of bottom friction on the estimation of breaking-wave heights, breaking locations, and breaking angles, determined by using the RCPWAVE model, were examined. We used direct and a wave-ray approaches to simulate the effects of energy loss caused by bottom friction. The direct approach requires knowing the wave friction coefficient prior to the calculation, and it did not give promising results. The wave-ray approach is simple and effective; thus, it is used in this study. Three types of bottom roughness (i.e., grain size, ripple, and movable bed) were considered in the calculation of bottom friction. The numerical experiments showed that bottom friction is important when there is a 2- to 5-km-wide shallow beach. Bottom friction reduces the breaking-wave height 30-50%. It also changes the breaking points. The computer codes for the wave-ray approach are portable, and they can be incorporated with any other wave transformation model to give more realistic results.
DE: breaking-waves; bottom-friction; wave-height; modelling-; bed-roughness
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9314712
AN: 2991868

                                                                    118 of 380
TI: A model for the generation of two-dimensional surf beat.
AU: List,-J.H.
AF: Cent. Coast. Geol., U.S. Geol. Surv., 600 4th St. S., St. Petersburg, FL 33701, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1992. vol. 97, no. C4, pp. 5623-5635
IS: ISSN 0148-0227
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A finite difference model predicting group-forced long waves in the nearshore is constructed with two interacting parts: an incident wave model providing time-varying radiation stress gradients across the nearshore, and a long-wave model which solves the equations of motion for the forcing imposed by the incident waves. Both shallow water group-bound long waves and long waves generated by a time-varying breakpoint are simulated. Model-generated time series are used to calculate the cross correlation between wave groups and long waves through the surf zone. The cross-correlation signal first observed by Tucker (1950) is well predicted. For the first time, this signal is decomposed into the contributions from the two mechanisms of leaky mode forcing. Results show that the cross-correlation signal can be explained by bound long waves which are amplified, though strongly modified, through the surf zone before reflection from the shoreline. The breakpoint-forced long waves are added to the bound long waves at a phase of  pi /2 and are a secondary contribution owing to their relatively small size.
DE: surf-beats; nearshore-dynamics; modelling-; wave-groups; breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9313738
AN: 2984587

                                                                    119 of 380
TI: Correlation of deep ocean noise (0.4-30 Hz) with wind, and the Holu Spectrum -- A worldwide constant.
AU: McCreery,-C.S.; Duennebier,-F.K.; Sutton,-G.H.
AF: Sch. Ocean and Earth Sci. and Technol., Univ. Hawaii, 2525 Correa Road, Honolulu, HI 96822, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1993. vol. 93, no. 5, pp. 2639-2648
IS: ISSN 0001-4966
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: One year of ambient ocean noise data, 0.4 to 30 Hz, from the Wake Island hydrophone array in the northwestern Pacific are compared to surface wind speeds, 0-14 m/s (0-28 kn). Between 0.4 and 6 Hz, noise levels increase with wind speed at rates of up to 2 dB per m/s until a saturation is reached having a slope of about -23 dB/octave and a level of 75 dB relative to 1  mu Pa/ square root Hz at 4 Hz. This noise saturation, called the "Holu Spectrum," likely corresponds to saturation of short-wavelength ocean wind waves. It is probably a worldwide constant. Between 4 and 30 Hz, noise also increases with wind speed at rates of up to 2 dB per m/s, but no saturation level is observed and the slope increases to about 4 dB/octave. This may be acoustic noise from whitecaps. On a hydrophone less than 3 km from Wake, noise between 0.5 and 10 Hz increases with wind speed at a rate up to 2 dB per m/s, but absolute noise levels are significantly higher than levels on the other hydrophones more distant from Wake, and no saturation is apparent. Surf breaking against the shore of the island is the probable source of this noise.
DE: ambient-noise; winds-; ISEW,-Wake-I.; breaking-waves; deep-water; underwater-noise; noise-sound; reverberation-
ID: Holu-Spectrum
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9311859
AN: 2975428

                                                                    120 of 380
TI: Relationship between gas exchange, wind speed, and radar backscatter in a large wind-wave tank.
AU: Wanninkhof,-R.H.; Bliven,-L.F.
AF: Ocean Chem. Dep., NOAA Alt. Oceanogr. Meteorol. Lab., Miami, FL 33149, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1991. vol. 96, no. C2, pp. 2785-2796
IS: ISSN 0148-0227
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Gas transfer velocities across the air-water interface are correlated with wind speed, friction velocity, and radar backscatter from the surface in a large wind-wave tank in Delft, The Netherlands. The rates of sulfur hexafluoride and nitrous oxide exchange were measured at wind speeds ranging from 3.5 m/s to 20 m/s, and with mechanically generated waves in the 100 m long, 8 m wide, and 0.7 m deep tank. Gas transfer velocities were related to wind speed with a power law dependence. Gas transfer showed a linear dependence with friction velocity. An exponential relationship between gas transfer and average radar backscatter cross section fits the wind tunnel data well for microwave units operating at 13.5 and 35 GHz in VV and HH polarization. The relative rates of gas exchange of the two gases confirm an inverse square root dependence on the Schmidt number at intermediate wind speeds. A slight enhancement of sulfur hexafluoride exchange compared to nitrous oxide exchange was evident when breaking waves were present.
DE: wave-tanks; air-water-interface; gas-exchange; wind-speed; backscatter-; radar-; air-water-exchanges
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9313686
AN: 2971179

                                                                    121 of 380
TI: Dissipation source function and an improvement to LAGFD-WAM model.
AU: Yuan,-Yeli; Hua,-Feng; Pan,-Zengdi; Sun,-Letao
AF: 1st Inst. Oceanogr., SOA, Qingdao 266003, People's Rep. China
SO: ACTA-OCEANOL.-SIN.-HAIYANG-XUEBAO. 1992. vol. 11, no. 4, pp. 471-481
IS: ISSN 0253-504X
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this paper, a new theoretical expression of dissipation term is presented on the basis of a statistical model of a breaking wave, which is an improvement to the LAGFD-WAM wave model. The computational results in 3 typical wind fields show a good improvement to LAGFD-WAM model and a better accuracy in comparison with the observed data in the South China Sea.
DE: wave-dissipation; breaking-waves; wind-speed; mathematical-models; comparative-studies; ISEW,-South-China-Sea
ID: LAGFD-WAM-wave-model
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
IC: CH9300662
AN: 2970072

                                                                    122 of 380
TI: Numerical calculation of drift current in wind waves.
AU: Chen,-Zhan; Zhang,-Zhaoshun
AF: Natl. Res. Cent. Mar. Environ. Forecasts, SOA, Beijing 100081, People's Rep. China
SO: ACTA-OCEANOL.-SIN.-HAIYANG-XUEBAO. 1992. vol. 11, no. 2, pp. 179-188
IS: ISSN 0253-504X
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Drift current induced by wind and waves is investigated with phase-averaged Navier-Stokes equation in which the Reynolds stress is closed by  Kappa - epsilon  model. The governing equations are solved by the finite volume method in a system of nonorthogonal coordinates which is fitted to the phase-averaged wave surface. The predicted drift current is fairly reasonable and the drag coefficient of sea-surface predicted with the newly developed interface conditions shows a good agreement with previous measurements when breaking waves do not exist.
DE: wind-driven-currents; current-prediction; Navier-Stokes-equations; Reynolds-stresses; drag-coefficient; hydrodynamic-equations
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9300612
AN: 2968562

                                                                    123 of 380
TI: Nonlinear and breaking waves in bichromatic wave-trains: Experiments and numerical simulations.
AU: Cointe,-R.; Boudet,-L.
AF: Bassin d'Essais des Carenes, Val de Reuil, France
CO: 1. Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., Edinburgh (UK), 11-16 Aug 1991
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIRST-1991-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE.-VOLUME-3,-1991. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.-eds. GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS 1991. pp. 517-522
IS: ISBN 0-9626104-8-8
NT: 4 Volume Set ISBN 0-9626104-5-3.
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper gives a preliminary account of an experimental and theoretical study of the nonlinear evolution of bichromatic wave trains up to breaking. We first report experiments that were performed in a 150m long towing tank at the Bassin d'Essais des Carenes in Paris. These experiments confirm the importance of nonlinear phenomena for the evolution of finite amplitude wave trains. We then describe the Sindbad code that uses the Mixed-Eulerian Lagrangian method to simulate a two-dimensional, nonlinear, transient potential flow in a wave tank.
DE: offshore-engineering; nearshore-dynamics; water-wave-motion; wave-trains; wave-breaking; simulation-; wave-tanks; numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9312392
AN: 2965696

                                                                    124 of 380
TI: On the breaking of energetic waves.
AU: Tulin,-M.P.; Li,-J.J.
AF: Ocean Engineering Lab., Univ. California, Santa Barbara, CA 93106, USA
CO: 1. Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., Edinburgh (UK), 11-16 Aug 1991
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIRST-1991-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE.-VOLUME-3,-1991. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.-eds. GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS 1991. pp. 498-503
IS: ISBN 0-9626104-8-8
NT: 4 Volume Set ISBN 0-9626104-5-3.
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this lecture we review our understanding of the breaking of energetic long waves at sea in deep water. We begin with a brief and selective review of the search for a breaking criterion in terms of wave steepness, or other simple local conditions. Here we show that neither the idea of a limiting wave steepness nor widely accepted laboratory values of limiting steepness are in accord with measurements at sea. We explain this discrepancy in terms of the fetch dependence of breaking inception for waves of varying steepness. We outline a new theoretical analysis of resonant instability which allows calculation of the deformation and the time rates involved; these are shown to be in excellent agreement with observational laboratory experiments.
DE: offshore-engineering; dynamical-oceanography; wave-breaking; breaking-waves; long-crested-waves; air-water-interface; deep-water-waves; numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9312388
AN: 2965572

                                                                    125 of 380
TI: Breaking waves in deep-water random seas.
AU: Dawson,-T.H.; Kriebel,-D.L.; Wallendorf,-L.A.
AF: U.S. Nav. Acad., Annapolis, MD 21402, USA
CO: 1. Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., Edinburgh (UK), 11-16 Aug 1991
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIRST-1991-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE.-VOLUME-3,-1991. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.-eds. GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS 1991. pp. 39-46
IS: ISBN 0-9626104-8-8
NT: 4 Volume Set ISBN 0-9626104-5-3.
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Results from a laboratory study of wave breaking in deep-water random seas are presented for approximate JONSWAP sea states. Waves generated at one end of a 116-meter wave tank are observed for breaking at a section of the tank approximately 30 meters from the wave maker and in regions spanning 3 and 6 meters about it. Emphasis is on the relative number of breaking waves observed at the section and in the regions about it, and on the distribution of crest amplitudes observed at the section. The measured distribution of crest amplitudes in the breaking sea state is found to agree approximately with lower-bound calculations based on the assumption that all breaking waves collapse instantaneously to their equilibrium levels. Experimental measurements of breaking in regions about the section are shown to be in good agreement with theoretical predictions relating breaking events over a region to those at a fixed location.
DE: offshore-engineering; dynamical-oceanography; wave-breaking; deep-water-waves; wave-statistics; wave-tanks; simulation-; sea-state; random-processes
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9312328
AN: 2958026

                                                                    126 of 380
TI: Perfect ocean wave focusing without reflection.
AU: Murashige,-S.; Kinoshita,-T.; Suzuki,-T.
AF: Inst. Ind. Sci., Univ. Tokyo, Tokyo, Japan
CO: 1. Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., Edinburgh (UK), 11-16 Aug 1991
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIRST-1991-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE.-VOLUME-3,-1991. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.;Maeda,-H.-eds. GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS 1991. pp. 6-14
IS: ISBN 0-9626104-8-8
NT: 4 Volume Set ISBN 0-9626104-5-3.
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: It is shown using the slender ship theory that an ideal ocean wave focusing lens can be composed by an array of submerged circular cylinders. We performed experiments of wave focusing using Fresnel lenses of 20 m long in a wave tank of 30 m x 50 m x 2.4 m. The results show that a circular cylinder type produces higher wave height magnification than a flat plate type in both regular and irregular waves. Furthermore, effects of the lens' slenderness, wave breaking on the lens, and nonlinear modulation of waves around a focal point are discussed both numerically and experimentally.
DE: offshore-engineering; wave-forces; water-wave-motion; flow-around-objects; cylinders-; wave-breaking; wave-energy; simulation-; numerical-analysis
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9312324
AN: 2957957

                                                                    127 of 380
TI: Overhauser boundary elements solution for periodic water waves in the physical plane.
AU: Ortiz,-J.C.; Douglass,-S.L.
AF: Univ. South Alabama, Mobile, AL 36688, USA
SO: ENG.-ANAL.-BOUND.-ELEM. 1993. vol. 11, no. 1, pp. 47-54
IS: ISSN 0955-7997
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: An Overhauser boundary element method (BEM) for the modeling of nonlinear periodic waves in the physical plane is described. The Overhauser element, used to eliminate discontinuities of the slope on the free surface of the wave, is described in detail. Examples for non-linear steady and breaking waves are shown. The Overhauser element is compared to Lagrangian linear and cubic elements. It is noted that the Overhauser element system is very stable. Neither "smoothing" nor any other manipulation of the BEM results are necessary within the time-stepping algorithm to achieve a stable solution.
DE: boundary-value-problems; nonlinear-waves; water-waves; wave-period; modelling-; breaking-waves; coastal-engineering
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9311944
AN: 2954998

                                                                    128 of 380
TI: Measurement of the sound produced by a tipping trough with fresh and salt water.
AU: Carey,-W.M.; Fitzgerald,-J.W.; Monahan,-E.C.; Wang,-Q.
AF: Adv. Res. Projects Agency, Arlington, VA 22203, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1993. vol. 93, no. 6, pp. 3178-3192
IS: ISSN 0001-4966
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Recent experiments confirm the production of sound by breaking waves at lower frequencies (30 to 500 Hz) with a dipole characteristic. The noise produced has a broadband characteristic associated with the impact and subsequent sounds that have discrete spectral characteristics. Breaking waves are known to produce bubble plumes and bubble clouds, the dynamic evolution of which provides a mechanism for sound production. Since the initial plume and cloud have appreciable void fractions, compressible resonant oscillations of these structures as a whole or in parts are possible. These bubble plumes would act as compact acoustic monopole sources of sound and due to the pressure release surface would have an effective dipole characteristic. Sufficient energy exists in the initial breaking vorticity and turbulence to excite these regions and to explain measured source levels. These effects have been simulated with a tipping trough experiment that demonstrates the production of low-frequency sound from salt and fresh water tipping trough events. These experimental results are shown to be consistent with the theory of sound radiation from the collective oscillations of bubble plumes.
DE: acoustic-properties; sound-; bubbles-; breaking-waves; wave-breaking; sound-measurement
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9311627
AN: 2951324

                                                                    129 of 380
TI: Active and passive acoustic behavior of bubble clouds at the ocean's surface.
AU: Prosperetti,-A.; Lu,-N.Q.; Kim,-H.S.
AF: Dep. Mech. Eng., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1993. vol. 93, no. 6, pp. 3117-3127
IS: ISSN 0001-4966
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The emission and scattering of sound from bubble clouds is studied theoretically. It is shown that clouds having a size and air content similar to what might be expected as a consequence of the breaking of ocean waves can oscillate at frequencies as low as 100 Hz and below. Thus cloud oscillations may furnish an explanation of the substantial amount of low-frequency wind-dependent oceanic ambient noise observed experimentally. Detailed results for the backscattering from bubble clouds--particularly at low grazing angles--are also presented and shown to be largely compatible with oceanic data. Although the cloud model used here is idealized (a uniform hemispherical cloud under a plane water free-surface), it is shown that the results are relatively robust in terms of bubble size, distribution, and total air content. A similar insensitivity to cloud shape is found in a companion paper (Sarkar and Prosperetti, J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 93, 3128-3138 (1993)).
DE: bubbles-; acoustic-properties; surface-layers; sound-scattering; sound-; breaking-waves; ambient-noise; surface-noise; underwater-noise; noise-sound
ID: bubble-clouds
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9311624
AN: 2951281

                                                                    130 of 380
TI: Backscattering of underwater noise by bubble clouds.
AU: Sarkar,-K.; Prosperetti,-A.
AF: Dep. Mech. Eng., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1993. vol. 93, no. 6, pp. 3128-3138
IS: ISSN 0001-4966
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper is a continuation of an earlier one (Prosperetti et al., J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 93, 3117-3127 (1993)) in which the low-frequency backscattering of sound by hemispherical bubble clouds at the ocean's surface was studied. Here, clouds of various geometrical shapes (spheroids, spherical segments, cones, cylinders, ellipsoids) are considered and results in substantial agreement with the earlier ones and with the experiments of Chapman and Harris (J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 34, 1592-1597 (1962)) are found. The implication is that the backscattering levels are not strongly dependent on the shape of the clouds, which strengthens the earlier conclusion that bubble clouds produced by breaking waves can very well be responsible for the unexpectedly high backscattering levels observed experimentally. The accuracy of the Born approximation used by others for similar problems is also examined in the light of the exact results. Significant differences are found for gas concentrations by volume of the order of 0.01% or higher. Finally, shallow nonaxisymmetric plumes are briefly considered.
DE: bubbles-; underwater-noise; backscatter-; surface-layers; sound-scattering
ID: bubble-clouds
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9311623
AN: 2951264

                                                                    131 of 380
TI: Influence of water depth on the breaking wave impact on vertical and sloping walls.
AU: Salih-Kirkgoez,-M.
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Cukurova Univ., 01330 Adana, Turkey
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1992. vol. 18, no. 3-4, pp. 297-314
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Experimental data are presented for the impact pressures, impact forces and deflections from oscillatory waves breaking (by plunging) directly on vertical, 10 degree  and 30 degree  backward inclined walls with 1/10 foreshore slope. The influence of the water depth on the maximum impact pressure, maximum impact force and maximum wall deflection is examined and it can be seen that these three quantities reasonably satisfy the log-normal probability distribution for the different water depths. It is also found that, overall, the magnitudes of the maximum impact pressure, maximum impact force and maximum wall deflection decrease rapidly as the water depth in front of the wall becomes smaller or greater than the depth in which impinging of the breaker front is presumed to occur almost with a parallel face to the wall during the wave breaking process. Within the range of present water depth conditions, the most frequent location of the maximum impact pressure for the three walls remains almost at the still-water level. Based on a wall deflection criterion, a range of water depth is determined where the wave breaking is likely to cause serious consequences on the wall.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-forces; water-depth
ID: vertical-walls; sloping-walls
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9311326
AN: 2947040

                                                                    132 of 380
TI: Threshold of motion of coarse-grained sediment under waves in shallow water.
AU: Morfett,-J.C.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Brighton, Brighton BN2 4GJ, UK
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1992. vol. 18, no. 3-4, pp. 283-295
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper considers the threshold of motion of sediment in shallow coastal waters under breaking and non-breaking waves. A simple model, representing conditions at the fluid-sediment interface, is developed. The representation of a breaking wave is based on bore theory, and the shear stress at the bed is based on the friction formula of O'Connor and Yoo. A threshold formula is presented based on the use of energy dissipation. The threshold data is also related to the Shields threshold criterion.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-forces; sediment-movement; grain-size; modelling-; sediment-water-interface; shear-stress
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Benthic-boundary-layer-2165; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9311327
AN: 2947033

                                                                    133 of 380
TI: Wave forces on a pipeline through the surf zone.
AU: Endresen,-H.K.; Toerum,-A.
AF: Norsk Hydrotek. Lab., Klaebuveien 153, N-7034 Trondheim, Norway
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1992. vol. 18, no. 3-4, pp. 267-281
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An experimental study has been carried out on forces from breaking waves on a pipeline through the surf zone. Large forces of intermittent nature have been measured. It is believed that the high forces are caused by high intensity turbulence generated in the breaking process of plunging waves.
DE: wave-forces; breaking-waves; surf-zone; pipelines-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Pipelines-2325
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9311328
AN: 2947025

                                                                    134 of 380
TI: The calculation of wave-breaking location on mild-slope by using stream function theory.
AU: Li,-Yucheng; Dong,-Guohai
AF: Dalian Univ. Technol., Dalian 116024, People's Rep. China
SO: COAST.-ENG.-HAIAN-GONGCHENG. 1991. vol. 10, no. 4, pp. 1-7
IS: ISSN 1002-3682
PY: 1991
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Through the theoretical calculation and experimental test as indicated in this paper, it is found that in the calculation of wave transformation, especially, the location of wave breaking point on mild-slope, the stream function wave theory is obviously superior to the linear wave theory.
DE: wave-breaking; waveform-analysis; wave-current-interaction; topographic-effects; shoaling-waves; functional-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9300259
AN: 2935772

                                                                    135 of 380
TI: Probability characteristics of uplifting pressure upon a vertical breakwater.
AU: Huang,-Peiji; Chen,-Xueying; Hu,-Zejian
AF: 1st Inst. Oceanogr., SOA, Qingdao 266003, People's Rep. China
SO: OCEANOL.-LIMNOL.-SIN.-HAIYANG-YU-HUZHAO. 1992. vol. 23, no. 4, pp. 362-370
IS: ISSN 0029-814X
PY: 1992
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Simultaneous and continuous observations of wind waves, wave pressures and uplifting pressures upon the vertical breakwater in Guzhenkou Harbor were made in the Summer of 1987 and 1988. In this paper, based on the statistical and spectral analyses of the above-mentioned observation data and under the condition that there is no wave breaking in front of the vertical breakwater, studies on the characteristics of probability distribution of uplifting pressures and variation of synchronous uplifting pressures and its spectral characteristics along the bottom section of the vertical breakwater were carried out, then the calculation for the maximum crest and trough of the total uplifting pressure was discussed. Results of analysis show that the cumulative distribution of the fluctuation range and the period for the uplifting pressures do not vary with positions for the measuring points on bottom section of the vertical breakwater which may be denoted by formulas, that the cumulative distribution of the fluctuation range for the total uplifting pressure is consistent with that for the total wave pressure upon the vertical breakwater, and that the uplifting pressure along the bottom section of the vertical breakwater appears linearly attenuated, i.e. maximum uplifting pressure at the fore toe, and not equal to zero uplifting pressure at the rear toe, of the vertical breakwater. The water pressure actually measured at the bottom of the vertical breakwater is slightly greater than the uplifting pressure measured at the fore toe of the vertical breakwater. The vertification of measured data indicates that the method given in this paper for calculating the maximum crest and trough of the total uplifting pressure is applicable as far as the need for the design calculation of the practical engineering is concerned.
DE: buoyancy-; wave-forces; wave-action; wind-waves; breakwaters-; probability-theory
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9300335
AN: 2932818

                                                                    136 of 380
TI: An experiment on boundary mixing. Part 2. The slope dependence at small angles.
AU: Salmun,-H.; Phillips,-O.M.
AF: Robert Hooke Inst., Clarendon Lab. Obs., Parks Rd., Oxford OX1 3PU, UK
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1992. vol. 240, pp. 355-377
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Boundary mixing may contribute significantly to the overall vertical mixing in a stratified ocean, the largest cross-isopycnal mixing occurring in boundary mixed layers which are then advected into the interior. When internal waves are reflected off sloping boundaries the vertical shear is enhanced, leading to possible shear flow instabilities and wave breaking, providing significant amounts of energy to drive the mixing. Experiments of the type described by Phillips et al. (1986) were performed using different slopes with the aim of examining the slope dependence of the buoyancy and volume transports, particularly at small slopes. The new observations confirmed the general flow patterns described for experiments conducted at a fixed slope, but a reconsideration of the local balances suggest that the buoyancy flux at small slopes  theta  is proportional to ( Kappa N) super(3/2) sin theta , where  Kappa  is the turbulent diffusivity, and the volume flux associated with the overall convergence flow is linear with depth and proportional to ( Kappa  super(3/2)/N super( is equivalent )h) sin theta , where h is the thickness of the pycnocline. These differ in their dependence on the slope suggested (but not tested) in Phillips et al., and are generally consistent with measurements over a range of slopes from 7.1 degree  to 23.5 degree .
DE: mixing-processes; buoyancy-flux; eddy-diffusivity; bottom-topography-effects; oceanic-turbulence; turbulent-boundary-layer; slopes-topography
ID: boundary-mixing
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9309928
AN: 2932469

                                                                    137 of 380
TI: Some aspects of mixing in a stratified turbulent patch.
AU: Silva,-I.P.D.-De; Fernando,-H.J.S.
AF: Dep. Mech. and Aerosp. Eng., Arizona State Univ., Tempe, AZ 85287-6106, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1992. vol. 240, pp. 601-625
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Mixing in a turbulent patch, that was generated within a linearly stratified fluid of buoyancy frequency N sub(0), was studied experimentally. The turbulence within the patch was induced by sustained oscillations of a mono-planar grid. Grid oscillations produced a local turbulent region, which initially grows rapidly as in a non-stratified fluid and then assumes a quasi-stationary thickness (L sub(p)) sub(c) when the stratification inhibits its vertical growth at a time N sub(0)t approximately equals 4. The growth beyond (L sub(p)) sub(c) occurs slowly via breaking of interfacial waves at the entrainment interface. As mixing proceeds, the buoyancy frequency within the patch N decreases. The time evolution of N, the buoyancy lengthscale, the Thorpe lengthscale, the maximum Thorpe displacement, the overturning lengthscale and the available potential energy fluctuations were measured and their relationships were investigated. Various aspects of the wave radiation from the patch to the outer stratified layer, the trapping of interfacial waves at the entrainment interface, and the effects of grid parameters on the evolution of the patch were also studied.
DE: oceanic-turbulence; mixing-processes; turbulent-entrainment; density-stratification; interfacial-waves; overturn-; buoyancy-
ID: turbulent-patches
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9309932
AN: 2932386

                                                                    138 of 380
TI: The rise of bubbles in a glass tube and the spectrum of bubbles produced by a splash.
AU: Bowyer,-P.A.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., University Coll., Galway, Eire
SO: J.-MAR.-RES. 1992. vol. 50, no. 4, pp. 521-543
IS: ISSN 0022-2402
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Bubbles produced by a volume of 500 cc of water falling through a distance of 1.07 m into a water-filled basin were allowed to rise into an adjacent water-filled tube whose top was sealed at a level of 1.7 m above the level of water in the basin. The rise of these bubbles was recorded on video at a height of 1.5 m above the level of the splash: larger bubbles were recorded first. A model has been devised to describe the rise of such bubbles. The rise speed of the bubbles at the level of the video camera decreased with time after a splash, becoming nearly constant after a few minutes. The model used this long term rise speed to estimate the nitrogen saturation in the water. Oxygen saturation is measured by an electrode. Given the saturation it was then possible to use the model to calculate the initial spectrum of bubbles rising up the tube from the splash (i.e. the spectrum of such bubbles a second or two after the splash, when bubble fractionation or coalescence has ceased). The smallest bubble that could be seen depends on the gas saturation, but was typically of initial radius 20  mu m, corresponding to a radius of 50-70  mu m at the level of the video. Such spectra were found at different saturations, distances from the splash and salinities. At gas saturation of 105%-120%, a peak appears in the spectrum at a radius of about 20  mu m. The time of admission of bubbles into the tube after a splash could also be restricted. For unrestricted sampling times, dN/dr varied as r super(-15), when expressed as a power law. The spectrum above the peak value became steeper at later sampling times. At salinities below about 10 ppt, the number of bubbles of calculated initial radius < 600  mu m is reduced. While no attempt was made to produce a realistic breaking wave, these results are relevant to attempt to define a source function of bubbles at sea, and to comparisons between fresh and salt water experiments.
DE: bubbles-; air-bubbles; nitrogen-; models-; velocity-; air-water-exchanges; saturation-; wave-air-interaction; breaking-waves
ID: rise-speed
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9309009
AN: 2931204

                                                                    139 of 380
TI: Volume flux induced by wind and waves in a saturated sea.
AU: Weber,-J.E.; Melsom,-A.
AF: Inst. Geophys., Univ. Oslo, P.O. Box 1022, Blindern, N-0315 Oslo, Norway
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1993. vol. 98, no. C3, pp. 4739-4745
IS: ISSN 0148-0227
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: On the basis of a Eulerian analysis in a rotating, homogeneous ocean, the Lagrangian mean volume fluxes induced by wind and wind-generated gravity waves are obtained. Since only fluxes are considered, i.e., vertically integrated equations, no particular form of the vertical variation of the turbulent Reynolds stress has to be assessed. The effects of friction and turbulence are neglected in computing the primary wave field in the ocean. The wave growth, due to instability at the air-water interface under the action of the wind, is not specifically computed. Observational values for the growth rate are used when discussing the results. The effect of wave breaking is modeled in a very simple way. It is shown that the Lagrangian momentum transfer to mean ocean currents due to growing/breaking waves in the saturation range is comparable to that obtained by the joint action of viscous and turbulent stresses.
DE: Lagrangian-current-measurement; volume-transport; wave-motion; wind-fields; modelling-; ocean-circulation; gravity-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9308654
AN: 2921732

                                                                    140 of 380
TI: Large amplitude sea/ice coupling.
AU: Fox,-C.
AF: Dep. Math. and Stat., Univ. Auckland, Priv. Bag 92019, Auckland, New Zealand
CO: 3. Int. Conf. on Ice Technology, Cambridge, MA (USA), 11-13 Aug 1992
SO: ADVANCES-IN-ICE-TECHNOLOGY. SOUTHAMPTON-UK COMPUTATIONAL-MECHANICS-PUBLICATIONS 1992. pp. 293-304
IS: ISBN 1-85312-175-4
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Existing complete methods for calculating the coupling between ocean waves and a thin ice sheet are based on linearised, or small amplitude, forms of the modelling equations. Predictions based on these methods, such as the wave height required to exceed the ice's breaking strain, remain in doubt since the range of validity of the linear model is unknown. In this paper a theoretical investigation is made of the propagation of large amplitude ocean waves normally incident on a floating ice cover by deriving a series solution to the nonlinear model. Numerical results are presented for the first and second order terms in the series established the valid range of the small amplitude model for both surface displacement and strain in the ice sheet.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; polar-oceanography; ocean-ice-atmosphere-system; water-wave-motion; surface-water-waves; ice-water-interface; wave-propagation; wave-amplitude; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-General-2161
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9308375
AN: 2918700

                                                                    141 of 380
TI: An investigation of breaking wave pressures on inclined walls.
AU: Mueller,-G.U.; Whittaker,-T.J.T.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Queen's Univ. Belfast, Belfast BT7 1NN, UK
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1993. vol. 20, no. 4, pp. 349-358
IS: ISSN 0029-8018
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Shoreline structures are subjected to breaking wave loads which may reach 690 KN/m super(3). One possibility to reduce these loadings is to slope the exposed surface backwards. The possible amount of reduction in breaking wave loads is, however, unclear, and recent model tests indicated that sloped walls might be exposed to higher loads than are vertical walls. Within the Wave Energy Group at Queen's University Belfast, tests on a 1/36 model of a shoreline wave power station were conducted in order to assess the influence of front wall inclination on the magnitude of breaking wave pressures. It was found that breaking wave pressure decrease from 100% for the vertical wall to 44% for a 32.7 degree  backwards inclined wall and 64% for a 32.7% forward inclined wall.
DE: coastal-engineering; wave-forces; coast-defences; sea-walls; breakwaters-; water-wave-motion; breaking-waves; numerical-analysis
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9308342
AN: 2918550

                                                                    142 of 380
TI: Negative nonlinear forces acting on a two-dimensional body by breaking waves.
AU: Cho,-I.H.; Choi,-H.S.
AF: Seoul Natl. Univ., Seoul, Rep. Korea
CO: The 1. (1990) Pacific/Asia Offshore Mechanics Symp., Seoul (Korea), 24-28 Jun 1990
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIRST-1990-PACIFIC-ASIA-OFFSHORE-MECHANICS-SYMPOSIUM.-VOLUME-2. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.-eds. GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS 1990. pp. 199-204
IS: ISBN 0-9626104-2-9
NT: 3 Volume Set ISBN 0-9626104-0-2.
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Longuet-Higgins (1977) observed in a two-dimensional shallow tank that a sandbar model moves with mean speed as high as 1.2 cm/sec. towards the weatherside, while incident waves break on the leeside of the sandbar. In this paper we intended to examine the problem numerically by using boundary integral method. Computations are made based on a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian solution scheme under the assumptions of potential flow. Wave forces acting on the sandbar including hydrostatic contributions are evaluated and assessed to quantify the experimental finding of Longuet-Higgins. It is found that the time-derivative and hydrostatic components in Bernoulli's equation dominate the total force acting on the sandbar. The force becomes negative, i.e. directs the weatherside, mainly due to the resulting hydrostatic unbalance, when waves break on the leeside of the sandbar.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-forces; nonlinearity-; sand-bars; hydrodynamics-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9308155
AN: 2917694

                                                                    143 of 380
TI: Variability of plunging wave pressures on vertical cylinders.
AU: Chan,-E.S.; Tan,-B.C.; Cheong,-H.F.
AF: Natl. Univ. Singapore, Singapore
CO: The 1. (1990) Pacific/Asia Offshore Mechanics Symp., Seoul (Korea), 24-28 Jun 1990
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIRST-1990-PACIFIC-ASIA-OFFSHORE-MECHANICS-SYMPOSIUM.-VOLUME-2. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.-eds. GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS 1990. pp. 119-126
IS: ISBN 0-9626104-2-9
NT: 3 Volume Set ISBN 0-9626104-0-2.
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The variability of pressures resulting from plunging wave impact on a smooth vertical cylinder is examined. Based on laboratory measurements, the fluctuations in the pressure characteristics are found to be associated with two main factors; one is the significant shift in the wave breaking location relative to the cylinder location, and the other is the randomness of the wave breaking kinematics and the trapped air dynamics. The variation of the peak pressure magnitudes associated with the latter is presented. Both the mean characteristics and the probability distributions are examined.
DE: wave-forces; cylinders-; breaking-waves; hydrodynamics-
ID: plunging-waves; wave-pressure
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9308165
AN: 2917599

                                                                    144 of 380
TI: On measurements of the water-particle velocity under breaking waves over the horizontal step in a laboratory tank.
AU: Nakagawa,-T.
AF: Kanazawa Inst. Technol., Kanazawa, Japan
CO: The 1. (1990) Pacific/Asia Offshore Mechanics Symp., Seoul (Korea), 24-28 Jun 1990
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIRST-1990-PACIFIC-ASIA-OFFSHORE-MECHANICS-SYMPOSIUM.-VOLUME-2. Chung,-J.S.;Isaacson,-M.-eds. GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS 1990. pp. 37-44
IS: ISBN 0-9626104-2-9
NT: 3 Volume Set ISBN 0-9626104-0-2.
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Three velocity components of water particles in the spilling and plunging breakers, respectively, have been measured simultaneously by means of an elaborate flow-meter in a two-dimensional wave tank. This new flow-meter measures the flow drag on three "tension threads," with each recording a separate flow component. Then, the steady flow and unsteady flow, turbulent fluctuation, and power spectral density are discussed for understanding and modelling the surf zone in a laboratory.
DE: velocity-microstructure; particle-motion; wave-velocity; breaking-waves; wave-tanks; turbulence-; flowmeters-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9308175
AN: 2917459

                                                                    145 of 380
TI: Proceedings of the First (1990) Pacific/Asia Offshore Mechanics Symposium. Volume 2.
AU: Chung,-J.S.; Isaacson,-M.-(eds.)
CO: 1. (1990) Pacific/Asia Offshore Mechanics Symp., Seoul (Korea), 24-28 Jun 1990
SO: GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS 1990. 368 pp
IS: ISBN 0-9626104-2-9
NT: 3 Volume Set ISBN 0-9626104-0-2.
PY: 1990
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The Symposium serves as a major Pacific Rim/Asia forum for the presentation of research and engineering works on interdisciplinary offshore and polar engineering. It features 4 panel and special sessions with experts from the industry and academia and 28 technical paper sessions that present recent developments and review of frontier technologies in the Asia and Pacific Rim countries in the fields of offshore petroleum and construction, offshore mechanics/technology, Antarctica, marine technology, materials technology, wave (power) energy, ice technology, and pipelines. About 190 papers, each manuscript peer-reviewed by recognized specialists and revised prior to final acceptance, are presented and discussed by researchers, engineers and managers from more than 20 countries. Volume II contains 50 papers on nonlinear aspects in hydrodynamics and structural responses, effects of oscillatory flows on and of vortex shedding from cylinders moving or stationary in waves and three-dimensional bodies, structural vibrations, and ice-structure interactions. Recent progresses in breaking waves and random wave forces are reviewed. Many papers deal with forces on vertical cylinders and with higher order effects. Also towed vehicles and their control for ocean measurements are investigated. The ice-structure interactions deal mainly with the problems of the eastern USSR offshore and Alaska offshore.
DE: conferences-; hydrodynamics-; nonlinear-waves; wave-forces; vortices-; motion-effects; offshore-structures; sea-ice; ice-properties
CL: Marine-Technology:-General-2281; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9308181
AN: 2917391

                                                                    146 of 380
TI: On measurements of the water-particle velocity under breaking waves over the horizontal step in a laboratory tank.
AU: Nakagawa,-T.
AF: Dep. Mech. Syst. Eng., Kanazawa Inst. Technol., Kanazawa, Japan
SO: INT.-J.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG. 1991. vol. 1, no. 2, pp. 108-114
IS: ISSN 1053-5381
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Three velocity components of water particles in spilling and plunging breakers, respectively, have been measured simultaneously by means of an elaborate flowmeter in a two-dimensional wave tank. This new flowmeter measures the flow drag on three tension threads, each recording a separate flow component. Subsequently, steady flow and unsteady flow, turbulent fluctuation and power-spectral density are discussed for understanding and modeling the surf zone in a laboratory.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-tanks; velocity-; flowmeters-; fluid-motion
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9306310
AN: 2899194

                                                                    147 of 380
TI: On the breaking of energetic waves.
AU: Tulin,-M.P.; Li,-J.J.
AF: Ocean Eng. Lab., Univ. California, Santa Barbara, CA, USA
SO: INT.-J.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG. 1992. vol. 2, no. 1, pp. 46-53
IS: ISSN 1053-5381
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The historical development of attempts to understand and quantify the breaking of energetic gravity waves is reviewed, and some new theoretical results are presented. The importance of at-sea observations, and of the appearance of wave breaking near the center of wave groups is emphasized. Discrepancies between laboratory measurements of wave steepness at breaking, (H/gT super(2))* = 0.021, and recent measurements at sea, (H/gT super(2))*avg = 0.0067 are explained in terms of the fetch dependence of the breaking of modulated waves, as shown experimentally by Su and Green (1984). With regard to mechanism, the role of non-linear resonant wave interactions leading to modulations, and of wave deformation is stressed. Finally we outline a new theoretical analysis of the breaking mechanism, central to which is the role of resonant (sideband) instability as an intermediary mechanism for rapid wave deformation leading to breaking within wave groups. Results are shown to be in excellent agreement with observational laboratory experiments of Bonmarin (1989) and observations of breaking in wave groups at sea.
DE: wave-groups; breaking-waves; energy-dissipation; gravity-waves; nonlinearity-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9306218
AN: 2897532

                                                                    148 of 380
TI: Ocean wave focusing: Experiments and nonlinear computations.
AU: Murashige,-S.; Kinoshita,-T.; Suzuki,-T.
AF: Inst. Ind. Sci., Univ. Tokyo, Tokyo, Japan
SO: INT.-J.-OFFSHORE-POLAR-ENG. 1992. vol. 2, no. 2, pp. 93-109
IS: ISSN 1053-5381
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: We performed experiments of wave focusing using two kinds of Fresnel lenses 20 m long, namely a flat plate type and a circular cylinder type, in a wave tank of 30 m x 50 m x 2.4 m. The experimental results show that waves are concentrated on the designed focal point, but that the wave power magnification is affected by the lens' shape and nonlinearity of a free surface. The three-dimensional singularity distribution method demonstrates the effects of the lens' shape and indicates that a Fresnel lens significantly reduces the predicted wave power magnification by the slender ship theory because of its discontinuous shape. As for nonlinearity of a free surface on a lens, the breaking limit of waves passing over a submerged plate and an array of submerged circular cylinders are obtained by experiments. Moreover, one-dimensional concentration of transient water waves and an approximated nonlinear water wave theory estimate the nonlinear effects of a free surface with increase of wave slope around a focal point fairly well.
DE: wave-diffraction; wave-tanks; nonlinear-waves; surface-water-waves; experimental-research
ID: focusing-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9306212
AN: 2897465

                                                                    149 of 380
TI: Wind dependence of deep ocean ambient noise at low frequencies.
AU: Chapman,-N.R.; Cornish,-J.W.
AF: Defense Res. Establ. Pacif., FMO Victoria, BC V0S 1B0, Canada
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1993. vol. 93, no. 2, pp. 782-789
IS: ISSN 0001-4966
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A series of experiments has been carried out using a vertical line array to measure low-frequency ambient noise at deep ocean sites in the Northeast Pacific Ocean. Data in the band from 13 to 300 Hz were processed to obtain the array response directed vertically upward in order to study the noise due to local winds. The results indicate that there are two regimes of behavior depending on the wind speed v, with the transition occurring at the onset of wave breaking, v similar to 10 kn. The noise level (NL) for a specific wind noise process was related to a power n of the wind speed according to the relationship NL = B + 20n log v, and the model parameters were obtained by fitting the data. The average value over the band was n = 0.3 for wind speeds < 10 kn and n = 1.33 for higher speeds. This latter value is significantly larger than the value n = 1, which is observed in ambient noise data at higher frequencies above 1 kHz. This result suggests that the noise process in breaking waves may be different at low frequencies from that at higher frequencies. Assuming a uniform distribution of surface dipole sources, the source level for the wind-generated noise was determined over the low-frequency band for wind speeds from 10-30 kn.
DE: INE-; breaking-waves; noise-sound; acoustic-arrays; vertical-profiles; wind-speed; frequency-spectra
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
IC: CS9305595
AN: 2891546

                                                                    150 of 380
TI: Approximate equations at breaking for nearshore wave transformation coefficients.
AU: Chandramohan,-P.; Nayak,-B.U.; Sanilkumar,-V.
AF: NIO, Dona Paula, Goa 403 004, India
CO: 4. Indian Conf. on Ocean Engineering (INCOE '91), Dona Paula, Goa (India), 4-6 Sep 1991
SO: FOURTH-INDIAN-CONFERENCE-ON-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PROCEEDINGS. National-Inst.-of-Oceanography,-Dona-Paula-India DONA-PAULA,-GOA-INDIA NIO no. 1991, pp. 487-492
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Based on small amplitude wave theory approximate equations are evaluated for determining the coefficients of shoaling, refraction, bottom friction, bottom percolation and viscous dissipation at breaking. The results obtained by these equations agree within the reasonable range with the results based on numerical integration. These equations will be useful for field engineers for easy application.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; breaking-waves; wave-motion; hydrodynamic-equations; offshore-engineering
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: DP9200343
AN: 2891168

                                                                    151 of 380
TI: Forces on submarine pipelines during wave breaking.
AU: Yuksel,-Y.; Narayanan,-R.
AF: Inst. Sci. and Technol., Univ. Manchester, Manchester, UK
CO: 4. Indian Conf. on Ocean Engineering (INCOE '91), Dona Paula, Goa (India), 4-6 Sep 1991
SO: FOURTH-INDIAN-CONFERENCE-ON-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PROCEEDINGS. National-Inst.-of-Oceanography,-Dona-Paula-India DONA-PAULA,-GOA-INDIA NIO no. 1991, pp. 397-402
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Experiments are carried out to evaluate the hydrodynamic forces due to breaking waves on a horizontal cylinder resting on a beach. Forces have to be presented in terms of statistical measures for various values of steepness of the incident wave. It is found that forces with 1% probability of exceedence occurring at plunging points, are about five times the r.m.s. values.
DE: pipelines-; wave-forces; wave-breaking; beaches-; loads-forces; dynamic-loads; wave-induced-loading
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2890615

                                                                    152 of 380
TI: The sonoluminescence spectrum of seawater.
AU: Becker,-L.; Bada,-J.L.; Kemper,-K.; Suslick,-K.S.
AF: Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., Univ. California, La Jolla, CA 92093-0212, USA
SO: MAR.-CHEM. 1992. vol. 40, no. 3-4, pp. 315-320
IS: ISSN 0304-4203
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The sonoluminescence spectra of seawater and of a sodium chloride solution were determined by irradiation with ultrasound at 20 kHz. Ultrasound creates sonoluminescence through the process of acoustic cavitation: the formation, growth and implosive collapse of bubbles in a liquid. The sonoluminescence spectra of both seawater and NaCl in water are characterized by an emission line at 589 nm from excited-state sodium. Excited-state Na atoms are produced from the reaction of Na super(+) with high-energy hydroxyl radicals formed directly during the cavitation event. Emission at 589 nm could be useful in determining whether sonochemical processes associated with cavitation occur in breaking waves or other turbulent flows.
DE: luminescence-; spectral-analysis; sea-water; ultrasonics-; physicochemical-properties
ID: sonoluminescence-
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Physics-and-chemistry-2183
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2884815

                                                                    153 of 380
TI: Beach systems of the central Netherlands coast: Processes, morphology and structural impacts in a storm driven multi-bar system.
AU: Short,-A.D.
AF: Univ. Sydney, Coast. Stud. Unit, Dep. Geogr., Sydney, N.S.W. 2006, Australia
SO: MAR.-GEOL. 1992. vol. 107, no. 1-2, pp. 103-137
IS: ISSN 0025-3227
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The 124 km long central Netherlands coast consists of a sand barrier system fronted by beach and surf zone containing 2 to 3 bars. The beach and surf zone are the product of wind waves generated in the North Sea, interacting with the medium to fine shoreface sands, in a micro tidal environment. The inner bar is usually attached to the beach as a ridge and runnel cut by drains and rips, the second and third bars are highly rhythmic and are characterised respectively by transverse bars and rips and rhythmic to longshore bar and trough bar types. Structural impacts influence 48 km of shore with harbour moles inducing lower wave energy and shoreline progradation, a 4.5 km long dyke replaces part of the beach but apparently has had little impact on mesoscale bar dynamics, while 158 groynes in three groyne fields have produced more intermediate, rip driven, surf zones. Natural beach processes however dominate the entire coast with the hierarchical bar morphology related to cross-shore wave breaking. The equilibrium beach concept of Wright et al. (1987) was used to empirically predict beach/bar type. The results explain both the hierarchy of bar type and the temporal variation in beach-bar type. Finally a multi-bar "beach model" for the coast is presented which builds upon the single bar model of Wright and Short (1984).
DE: ANE,-Netherlands; coastal-morphology; beach-profiles; sand-bars; storms-; surf-zone; sediment-transport
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 2882206

                                                                    154 of 380
TI: A hybrid model to predict the entrainment and subsurface transport of oil.
AU: Spaulding,-M.L.; Odulo,-A.; Kolluru,-V.S.
AF: Spaulding Environmental Assoc., 682 Kingstown Rd., Wakefield, RI 02879, USA
CO: 15. Arctic and Marine Oilspill Program Technical Semin., Edmonton, AB (Canada), 10-12 Jun 1992
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIFTEENTH-ARCTIC-AND-MARINE-OILSPILL-PROGRAM-TECHNICAL-SEMINAR.  COMPTE-RENDU:-15e-COLLOQUE-TECHNIQUE-DU-PROGRAMME-DE-LUTTE-CONTRES-LES-DEVERSEMENTS-D'-HYDROCARBURES-EN-MER-ET-DANS-L'-ARCTIQUE-AMOP. Environment-Canada,-Ottawa,-ON-Canada.-Technology-Development 1992. pp. 67-92
IS: ISBN 0-662-59050-3
NT: Incl. bibliogr.: 35 ref.
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The entrainment of surface oil into the water column and its subsequent subsurface transport and dispersion are predicted by a hybrid analytic-numerical solution to the advective diffusion equation. Total oil or selected hydrocarbon component concentrations in the water column are predicted. Assuming that the principal mechanism for entrainment is due to breaking waves, the oil entrainment rate, is specified using Delvigne and Sweeney's (1988) empirically based algorithm. The subsurface transport model explicitly accounts for buoyant forces on dispersed oil by droplet size. Application of the model to an analytic test case and several hypothetical scenarios illustrates the model's utility.
DE: oil-spills; turbulent-entrainment; transport-processes; prediction-; mathematical-models; marine-pollution
CL: Pollution:-Methods-and-instruments-1502
JA: ASFA --3:-Aquatic-Pollution-and-Environmental-Quality (Q5)
AN: 2878472

                                                                    155 of 380
TI: Evidence for the importance of bubbles in increasing air-sea gas flux.
AU: Farmer,-D.M.; McNeil,-C.L.; Johnson,-B.D.
AF: Inst. Ocean Sci., 9860 W. Saanich Rd., P.O. Box 6000, Sidney, BC V8L 4B2, Canada
SO: NATURE. 1993. vol. 361, no. 6413, pp. 620-623
IS: ISSN 0028-0836
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: Two models have been proposed to account for gas exchange between the atmosphere and the oceans: one involves direct transport of the gas through a surface boundary layer; the other also includes a substantial enhancement of the gas flux due to bubbles formed by breaking waves. In a long time-series of dissolved oxygen measurements, Wallace and Wirick observed sharply increased fluxes that seemed to be associated with wave activity. But the lack of vertical resolution meant that they could not rule out water advection and entrainment, rather than bubble-mediated air injection, as the cause of the increased flux. They are also unable to calculate transfer coefficients. Here we report simultaneous in situ observations from a vertical array of dissolved-gas sensors and a variety of other instruments during a single storm event. Our results confirm the importance of bubbles for the gas-transfer process. They also imply that existing transfer coefficients underestimate the transfer of weakly soluble gases during periods of bubble penetration.
DE: air-water-exchanges; ocean-atmosphere-system; sea-surface; bubbles-; gas-exchange; dissolution-; air-bubbles
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2876151

                                                                    156 of 380
TI: On the concentration and statistical size distribution of wind-generated air bubbles in the coastal waters of the Black Sea.
OT: O kontsentratsii i statisticheskom raspredelenii razmerov vozdushnykh puzyr'kov, sozdavaemykh vetrom v pribrezhnykh vodakh Chernogo morya
AU: Kolobaev,-P.A.; Dekterev,-A.Kh.
AF: Morsk. Gidrofiz. Inst., Sevastopol', Ukraine
SO: OKEANOLOGIYA-OCEANOLOGY. 1992. vol. 32, no. 3, pp. 460-465
IS: ISSN 0030-1574
PY: 1992
LA: Russian
LS: English; Russian
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The paper presents experimental data on the concentration and size distribution of air bubbles at depths of 1-15 m at the wind velocities of 7-11 m/sec in spring. Equipment for photographing air bubbles in water and techniques for measuring bubble parameters are described.
DE: air-bubbles; wind-speed; breaking-waves; coastal-waters; photography-; MED,-Black-Sea
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 2872605

                                                                    157 of 380
TI: Development of a conservative 3D free surface code.
AU: Thomas,-T.G.; Williams,-J.J.R.; Leslie,-D.C.
AF: Turbulence Unit, Queen Mary Coll., Mile End Rd., London E1 4NS, UK
SO: J.-HYDRAUL.-RES.-J.-RECH.-HYDRAUL. 1992. vol. 30, no. 1, pp. 107-116
IS: ISSN 0022-1686
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: French; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The paper describes the salient features of a three-dimensional finite difference code at present under development for Large Eddy Simulation of free-surface turbulence. It is essential in this application that the numerical approximations conserve mass, momentum, and kinetic + potential energy while allowing for large movements of the free surface and these are presented in detail for cells cut by the surface. The surface advancement is by a combined Volume-of-Fluid and height function method which conserves mass exactly over finite time steps, but does not permit breaking waves. Momentum is advanced by control volume techniques, and the potential singularity caused by very small surface cells is avoided by a new split-merge technique which is numerically stable. Results are presented for a two-dimensional inviscid large amplitude wave in a periodic box.
DE: finite-difference-method; simulation-; oceanic-eddies; sea-surface; air-water-interface; conservation-of-mass; conservation-of-momentum; surface-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2868882

                                                                    158 of 380
TI: Dissipative and reflective beaches in a large lake and the physical effects of lake level regulation.
AU: Lorang,-M.S.; Stanford,-J.A.; Hauer,-F.R.; Jourdonnais,-J.H.
AF: Flathead Lake, Biol. Stn., Univ. Montana, 311 Bio Station Lane, Polson, MT 59860, USA
SO: OCEAN-COAST.-MANAGE. 1993. vol. 19, no. 3, pp. 263-287
IS: ISSN 0964-5691
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: Nearshore environments in Flathead Lake, Montana, USA, were described as dissipative or reflective on the basis of: the surf similarity parameter  epsilon , grain size, morphology, number of breaking waves and angle of wave incidence. The relative resistance to foreshore and backshore erosion caused by anthropogenic lake level regulation was compared between these two nearshore configurations. Reflective systems were characterized by dynamic gravel beach faces and steep inshore shelves armored by wave-washed cobble. In contrast, dissipative systems were characterized by sand-sized substratum, broad flat inshore shelves and the presence of multiple linear bars approximately 350 m offshore. Five decades of regulated lake levels have resulted in extensive shoreline erosion (970 ha on the north shore of the lake) and a general reshaping of both types of nearshore environments, although dissipative shorelines eroded faster (5.7 m/year maximum and 2.0 m/year average). The presence of docks and other man-made structures on reflective beaches accelerated erosion by intercepting longshore gravel transport. This analysis provided a physical basis for understanding the effects of lake level regulation on shoreline ecology and management.
DE: lakes-; water-levels; USA,-Montana,-Flathead-L.; erosion-; water-management; wave-effects; sediment-transport; beaches-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Dynamics-of-lakes-and-rivers-2171; Environmental-Changes,-Conservation,-Public-Health:-Mechanical-and-natural-changes-1521
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); ASFA --3:-Aquatic-Pollution-and-Environmental-Quality (Q5)
IC: CS9303291
AN: 2861482

                                                                    159 of 380
TI: Statistical characteristics of waves and its pressures at vertical breakwater.
AU: Huang,-Peiji; Hu,-Zejian; Chen,-Xueying
AF: 1st Inst. Oceanogr., SOA, Qingdao 266003, People's Rep. China
SO: J.-OCEAN-UNIV.-QINGDAO-QINGDAO-HAIYANG-DAXUE-XUEBAO. 1992. vol. 22, no. 1, pp. 1-11
IS: ISSN 1001-1862
PY: 1992
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: On the basis of data measured in Guzhenkou harbor in summer in 1987 and 1988, the statistical analysis and the spectral estimation on waves and its pressures in front of the breakwater were carried out. Without any wave breaking, the studies on the profile elevation probability distribution for both the waves in front of the breakwater and the pressure fluctuations at different depths of the breakwater, the probability distribution characteristics of the wave heights and periods and the ranges of pressure fluctuation or periods for the wave pressure, the spectral variation during the incident waves propagating to the breakwater, as well as the variation characteristics of pressure spectra at different depth of the breakwater were made. The main results were summarized in the last section of this paper.
DE: breakwaters-; wave-action; wave-forces; probability-theory; statistical-analysis
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9200571
AN: 2858354

                                                                    160 of 380
TI: Interaction of surface waves and near surface currents.
AU: Smith,-J.A.
CA: Scripps Inst. of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA (USA). Marine Physical Lab.
SO: REP.-SCRIPPS-INST.-OCEANOGR.-MAR.-PHYS.-LAB. 1991. 6 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A231 612/3/GAR.
RN: MPL-U-2/91 (MPLU291)
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Proper interpretation of remotely sensed images require a thorough understanding of the behavior of the short scattering waves. Estimates of air-sea fluxes of gases, heat, momentum, etc. are also strongly dependent on the details of the wave modulation and breaking both directly and via induced secondary flows such as Langmuir circulation. This project addressed two problems within this context: (1) modulation of short waves by longer ones, in the presence of both strong generation and dissipation; and (2) interaction of surface waves and Langmuir circulation, with special attention towards identifying an observable effect on the waves.
DE: short-wave-long-wave-interaction; surface-water-waves; Langmuir-circulation; wave-current-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9300281
AN: 2856047

                                                                    161 of 380
TI: Measurements of bubble plumes and turbulence from a submarine.
AU: Osborn,-T.; Farmer,-D.M.; Vagle,-S.; Thorpe,-S.A.; Cure,-M.
AF: Dep. Earth Planet. Sci., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218, USA
SO: ATMOSPHERE-OCEAN. 1992. vol. 30, no. 3, pp. 419-440
IS: ISSN 0705-5900
NT: Incl. bibliogr.: 23 ref.
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An experiment using turbulence probes and an array of side-scan and vertically pointing pencil beam sonars mounted on the U.S. submarine Dolphin  was carried out to measure turbulence in near-surface regions of acoustic scattering, in particular, those caused by subsurface bubbles produced by breaking wind waves. The dataset collected during winds of 5-9 m/s reveals the banded patterns of bubbles associated with Langmuir circulation, even though no surface manifestations were visible. A forward-pointing side-scan sonar determined the "age" of bubble clouds after their generation by breaking waves.
DE: upper-ocean; breaking-waves; turbulence-; measurement-; plumes-; bubbles-; underwater-vehicles; sonar-; INE,-USA,-California,-Channel-I.,-San-Clemente-I.
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Underwater-vehicles-2302
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
IC: CA9200898
AN: 2843960

                                                                    162 of 380
TI: Application of a non-linear shallow water theory to swash following bore collapse on a sandy beach.
AU: Hughes,-M.G.
AF: Sydney Water Board, Sci. Serv., P.O. Box 73, West Ryde, N.S.W. 2114, Australia
SO: J.-COAST.-RES. 1992. vol. 8, no. 3, pp. 562-578
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: German; English; Spanish
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The non-linear shallow water theory is believed to be capable of describing many features of wave behaviour in the coastal zone. A set of solutions to the governing equations exists for swash following bore collapse on a hydraulically smooth and impermeable beach. These solutions predict that the maximum swash height is proportional to the square of the initial shoreline velocity, the locus of shoreline position through time is parabolic, the maximum swash depth at any position on the beach is a quadratic function of its distance from the initial shoreline position, the maximum swash depth at any position on the beach occurs before the time of maximum uprush, and a retrogressive bore forms in the backwash. All of these predictions have been observed in field data collected from a number of sandy beaches in southeast Australia. However, the theory consistently over-predicted the magnitude of the parameters measured. Evidence is presented to suggest that this discrepancy is due to the effects of friction and infiltration acting on the swash lens, which are not initially accounted for in the theory. If the available evidence is accepted, then the combined effects of friction and infiltration on a sandy beach serve to reduce the maximum swash height to approximately 65% of that expected from theory.
DE: PSE,-Australia; models-; nonlinear-equations; shallow-water; breaking-waves; beaches-; backwash-
ID: swash-behavior
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Eastward (PSE)
IC: CS9219607
AN: 2832544

                                                                    163 of 380
TI: Surf zone transformation of wave height to water depth ratios.
AU: Nelson,-R.C.; Gonsalves,-J.
AF: Dep. Civ. Marit. Eng., Univ. New South Wales, University Coll., Australian Defence Force Acad., Campbell, A.C.T. 2600, Australia
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1992. vol. 17, no. 1-2, pp. 49-70
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A solid body of data exists on which to base engineering decisions regarding the maximum wave heights that can be achieved in shallow water at the point of incipient breaking. Effort is now being directed towards the study of how wave height varies as waves propagate through the surf zone and what parameters control this process. Early surf zone models assumed a constant value of H/h while later models incorporate a decay function for H/h due to turbulence in the breaking wave. A few more recent studies have recognised a second process by which H/h can decay through the surf zone where there is a strong underlying infragravity wave motion. The work presented here investigates the characteristics of this latter decay process on a natural exposed dissipative beach, including its magnitude and dual dependence on local mean water depth and distance from the breaker line. Some comparisons are then made with the decay characteristics of the former process.
DE: surf-zone; breaking-waves; wave-height; shallow-water; models-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9219165
AN: 2829737

                                                                    164 of 380
TI: Ocean waves over shoals.
AU: Lie,-V.; Toerum,-A.
AF: Norwegian Inst. Technol., SINTEF Norwegian Hydrotech. Lab., 7034 Trondheim, Norway
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1991. vol. 15, no. 5-6, pp. 545-562
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An experimental study has been carried out on the change of the waves over and around a rather peaked elliptical shoal. The variation of the significant wave height, crest height distributions and wave height distributions have been given for different peak periods, different deep water wave heights and different depths of the shallowest point on the shoal. Wave breaking is discussed.
DE: shoaling-waves; wave-properties; breaking-waves; surface-water-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9219188
AN: 2829730

                                                                    165 of 380
TI: Modelling of undertow by a one-equation turbulence model.
AU: Deigaard,-R.; Justesen,-P.; Fredsoee,-J.
AF: Inst. Hydrodynam. Hydraul. Eng. (ISVA), Tech. Univ. Denmark, DK-2800 Lyngby, Denmark
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1991. vol. 15, no. 5-6, pp. 431-458
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A model for the circulation current in the vertical plane in the surf zone, the so-called undertow, is formulated. The model describes the time-averaged shear stresses caused by the wave breaking, which drives the current, and the resulting velocity distribution. The time-averaged velocity distribution is determined by a flow model based on a one-equation turbulence model to calculate the eddy viscosity. Two contributions are included in the description of the production of turbulence, the normal shear production, which is dominant in the wave boundary layer, and the production from the broken waves, which dominates away from the bed. The model simulates the unsteady flow during a wave cycle. The model results have been compared with laboratory measurements from the literature of turbulence in the surf zone and mean current velocity profiles with and without a net cross-shore discharge.
DE: turbulence-; undertow-; surf-zone; coastal-currents; vertical-motion; modelling-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9219193
AN: 2828678

                                                                    166 of 380
TI: A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations.
AU: Karambas,-Th.V.; Koutitas,-C.
AF: Div. Hydraul. Environ. Eng., Dep. Civ. Eng., Aristotle Univ., Thessaloniki 54006, Greece
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1992. vol. 18, no. 1-2, pp. 1-19
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A wave propagation model, based on the Boussinesq type of equations, is proposed, valid both in the shoaling and the breaking region. By introducing a dispersion term to simulate Reynolds stresses (eddy viscosity concept), it is possible to simulate wave deformation in the surf zone, i.e. the turbulence dissipation conditions during breaking. The eddy viscosity coefficient is calculated from the numerical integration of the turbulent transport equation and the mixing length hypothesis. The production term in the proposed k-model is the dissipation of wave energy due to breaking, which is approximated by that of a propagating bore. The model is tested against well confirmed experimental data.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-propagation; models-; Boussinesq-approximation; shoaling-waves; eddy-viscosity; energy-dissipation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9219154
AN: 2826765

                                                                    167 of 380
TI: Semi-empirical treatment of wave transformation outside and inside the breaker line.
AU: Black,-K.P.; Rosenberg,-M.A.
AF: Victorian Inst. Mar. Sci., 14 Parliament Melbourne 3002, Australia
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1992. vol. 16, no. 3, pp. 313-345
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A semi-empirical method is developed which predicts the wave height shoaling up to the break point on laboratory and natural beaches. Linear shoaling is enhanced with empirical curves for the wave shape, obtained from field measurements of wave height through the break point and the surf zone made on an ocean beach in southern Australian from 1987 to 1989. Wave height shoaling, breaking and attenuation are unified in a mixed Lagrangian/Eulerian numerical model of random wave height transformation which, with the semi-analytical enhancements, provides improved predictions of the height transformation of individual waves through the surf zone. This is demonstrated for a wide variety of cases from the field and laboratory.
DE: wave-height; shoaling-waves; prediction-; surf-zone; models-; breaking-waves; ISW,-Australia
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
IC: CS9219172
AN: 2826738

                                                                    168 of 380
TI: Random breaking waves: Field verification of a wave-by-wave algorithm for engineering application.
AU: Dally,-W.R.
AF: Florida Inst. Technol., Oceanogr. and Ocean Eng., 150 W. University Blvd., Melbourne, FL 32901, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1992. vol. 16, no. 4, pp. 369-397
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A simple numerical algorithm is utilized to test the wave-by-wave approach to modeling random wave transformation caused by shoaling, breaking and reforming across nearshore profiles of arbitrary shape. Histograms of wave height and associated predicted by the model show favorable comparison to measurements from the nine tests of the DUCK'85 field experiment, with a root mean square error less than 10% for most wave statistics. Although suitable for use in many engineering applications, the model does overpredict the number of waves that reform as they pass over a trough formation, which is one facet that warrants improvement. Using the model predictions as a point of reference, the qualitative effects of (1) an offshore wind, (2) wave reflection and (3) surf beat are identified and discussed.
DE: breaking-waves; models-; wave-breaking; prediction-; surf-zone; nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9219170
AN: 2826714

                                                                    169 of 380
TI: Instrumentation for the measurement of void-fraction in breaking waves: Laboratory and field results.
AU: Lamarre,-E.; Melville,-W.K.
AF: R.M. Parsons Lab., Dep. Civ. Eng., MIT, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
SO: IEEE-J.-OCEAN.-ENG. 1992. vol. 17, no. 2, pp. 204-215
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: We report on the development and use of an impedance probe to measure the volume fraction of air (void-fraction) in bubble plumes generated by breaking waves. The void-fraction gauge described here is found to be most useful in the initial period after breaking when large void-fractions prevail. We describe the instrumentation at length and report on its use in the laboratory and in the field. The instrument is found to be capable of rendering the space-time evolution of the void-fraction field from controlled laboratory breaking waves. Field results show measurements of void-fractions (up to 24%) which are several orders of magnitude greater than time averaged values previously reported. Preliminary measurements show that the fraction of breaking waves per wave, based on the detection of breaking by the void-fraction gauge, is dependent on significant wave height and wind speed. The dependence on wind speed is compared with data of previous investigators. Underwater video photography from the field clearly shows the formation and evolution of distinct bubble plumes and the presence of large bubbles (at least 6-mm radius) generated by breaking.
DE: breaking-waves; bubbles-; plumes-; void-ratio; measurement-; oceanographic-equipment
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9219129
AN: 2826477

                                                                    170 of 380
TI: High-speed bubble sizing using the double frequency technique for oceanographic applications.
AU: Koller,-D.; Li,-Y.; Shankar,-P.M.; Newhouse,-V.L.
AF: Dep. Electr. and Comp. Eng., Drexel Univ., Philadelphia, PA 19104, USA
SO: IEEE-J.-OCEAN.-ENG. 1992. vol. 17, no. 3, pp. 288-291
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A high-speed bubble sizing technique has been developed that should have the capability of accurately determining bubble populations during breaking waves. The system developed to date was able to acquire an average bubble spectrum from 2.5 to 6 kHz in 0.1 s. Through the use of a double frequency technique, there would be very little or no contribution from nonresonant bubbles at each frequency of interest. The results of the system were compared to the data obtained by listening to ambient bubble noise with a transducer and from photographic population counts.
DE: bubbles-; size-distribution; measuring-devices; acoustic-equipment; breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9219074
AN: 2825482

                                                                    171 of 380
TI: Wave impact pressures on vertical cylinders.
AU: Zhou,-D.; Chan,-E.S.; Melville,-W.K.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Build. 48, MIT, MA 02139, USA
SO: APPL.-OCEAN-RES. 1991. vol. 13, no. 5, pp. 220-234
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Laboratory measurements of the pressure distributions on surface-piercing vertical cylinders due to breaking waves are presented. Breaking waves are generated in a repeatable fashion under program control, and both vertical and azimuthal distributions of pressures were measured over many repeats of the experiments. Despite the repeatability of the controllable experimental conditions, it is found that the highest impact pressures are subject to considerable variability, including pressure oscillations, from run to run. Thus, despite the repeatability of the upstream incident wave hydrodynamics, it appears that the prediction of the largest pressures is essentially a stochastic problem.
DE: hydrodynamics-; wave-forces; cylinders-; breaking-waves; simulation-; pressure-measurement; numerical-analysis
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9218790
AN: 2824833

                                                                    172 of 380
TI: Theoretical model of the thermocline in a freshwater basin.
AU: Zilitinkevich,-S.S.; Mironov,-D.V.
AF: Max-Planck-Inst. Meteorol., Bundesstr. 55, 2000 Hamburg 13, FRG
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1992. vol. 22, no. 9, pp. 988-996
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A theoretical model of a regime under consideration is proposed based on the hypothesis on governing parameters of intermittent turbulence generated on the background of strongly stable stratification by breaking of internal waves and turbulence/wave interactions, the heat transfer equation and the balance equation for turbulent kinetic energy. The solution of the problem of a propagating-wave type coincides with the empirical approximation of a dimensionless, self-similar temperature profile only in the special case of pronounced deepening of the mixed layer. This explains the fact of much better accuracy of similarity representation of the temperature profile in laboratory thermoclines. Indeed, all known experiments just dealt with development of a thermocline under the condition of a deepening mixed layer. The model contains two dimensionless constants whose values are found by means of comparison of the solution with the results of laboratory experiments on penetrative convection. Using these constants, a numerical simulation of the thermocline in laboratory experiments by Deardorff and Willis on shear currents in an annulus appears to be quite realistic. This result confirms applicability of the model to different types of laboratory thermoclines.
DE: thermocline-; stability-; freshwater-sciences; turbulence-; models-; stratification-
CL: Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-TSD-distribution,-water-masses-and-circulation-2146
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9218821
AN: 2823749

                                                                    173 of 380
TI: An experimental study of the nearshore circulation around an elliptical island.
OT: Daenkei shima mawari no kaihinryu no jikken
AU: Hashima,-M.
AF: Dep. Phys., Natl. Def. Med. Coll., Namiki 3-2, Tokorozawa, Saitama 359, Japan
SO: UMI-MER. 1990. vol. 28, no. 2-3, pp. 81-86
IS: ISSN 0503-1540
PY: 1990
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: The equations of the nearshore circulation caused by waves breaking around an elliptical island are solved for a model, and the numerical results are compared with the experimental results that are carried out on models. The theoretical distribution of the mean flow along the island shore agrees well with the experimental values. Furthermore, close agreement is obtained between the experimental results and the flow patterns of Iwo-Jima that is approximately an ellipse.
DE: water-circulation; nearshore-currents; experimental-research
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: JA9200045
AN: 2814514

                                                                    174 of 380
TI: Enhanced dissipation of kinetic energy beneath surface waves.
AU: Agrawal,-Y.C.; Terray,-E.A.; Donelan,-M.A.; Hwang,-P.A.; Williams,-A.J.,III; Drennan,-W.M.; Kahma,-K.K.; Kitaigorodskii,-S.A.
AF: Quest Integrated, Inc., 21414 68th Ave. S., Kent, WA 98032, USA
SO: NATURE. 1992. vol. 359, no. 6392, pp. 219-220
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: Transfer of momentum from wind to the surface layer of lakes and oceans plays a central part in driving horizontal and vertical circulation of water masses. Much work has been devoted to understanding the role of waves in momentum transfer across the air-sea interface, but less is known about the energetics of the near-surface turbulence responsible for the mixing of momentum and mass into the underlying water column. In particular, it has remained unclear whether the structure of the turbulence in the surface layer can be described by analogy to wall-bounded shear flows or whether waves, either through breaking or wave-current interaction, introduce new length- and timescales which must be modelled explicitly. Here we report observations of turbulence in Lake Ontario, taken under conditions of strong wave breaking, which reveal a greatly enhanced dissipation rate of kinetic energy close to the air-water interface, relative to the predictions of wall-layer theory. Because wave breaking is intermittent, short-term measurements of the kinetic energy dissipation in the near-surface layer may therefore result in considerably underestimates, and any general treatment of upper mixed layer dynamics will have to take wave breaking explicitly into account.
DE: North-America,-Ontario-L.; energy-dissipation; surface-water-waves; momentum-transfer; vertical-water-movement; wind-driven-circulation; air-water-interface; wave-breaking; turbulence-; kinetic-energy; mixed-layer
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9217681
AN: 2812995

                                                                    175 of 380
TI: Numerical simulation of air flow over breaking waves.
AU: Maat,-N.; Makin,-V.K.
AF: Div. Oceanogr. Res., Royal Netherlands Meteorol. Inst. (KNMI), P.O. Box 201, 3730 AE De Bilt, Netherlands
SO: BOUNDARY-LAYER-METEOROL. 1992. vol. 60, no. 1-2, pp. 77-93
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The air flow above breaking monochromatic Stokes waves is studied using a numerical nonlinear model of the turbulent air flow above waves of finite amplitude. The breaking event (spilling breaker) is parameterized by increasing the local roughness at the downwind slope of the wave, just beyond the crest. Both moderate slope waves and steep waves are considered. Above steep breaking waves, a large increase (typically 100%) in the total wind stress - averaged over the wave profile - is found compared to nonbreaking slope waves. This is due to the drastic increase of the form drag, which arises from the asymmetrical surface pressure pattern above breaking waves. Both increase of wave slope (sharpening of the crest) and increase of local roughness in the spilling breaker area cause this asymmetrical surface pressure pattern. A comparison of the numerical results with the recent experimental measurements of Banner is carried out and a good agreement is found for the structure of the pressure pattern above breaking waves and for the magnitude of enhanced momentum transfer.
DE: air-flow-over-water; Stokes-waves; wind-stress; wind-wave-interaction; numerical-analysis; simulation-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9214530
AN: 2783682

                                                                    176 of 380
TI: Kinematics of 2-D transient water waves using laser Doppler anemometry.
AU: Kim,-C.H.; Randall,-R.E.; Boo,-Sung-Y.; Krafft,-M.J.
AF: Ocean Eng. Program, Civ. Eng. Dep., Texas A&M Univ., College Station, TX 77843, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1992. vol. 118, no. 2, pp. 147-165
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Results of recent research on experimental investigation of wave-fluid particle kinematics just prior to breaking using laser Doppler anemometry are presented. Extreme transient waves, similar to those found in hurricane Camille, and an "equivalent" regular wave, often used for design purposes, are generated and their kinematics measured. The kinematics of transient waves of smaller height are also measured to evaluate the effect of wave height, and these data are compared to Stokes third-order theory. Due to particular asymmetries not present in the large regular symmetric wave, the transient wave kinematics under the crest are shown to be much more severe above the still water level and somewhat less severe below. The stretching method used for the simulated transient wave underestimates the horizontal velocities in the crest and overestimates them below the still water level. These comparisons suggest that it would be worthwhile to further investigate the use of extreme waves as more realistic design waves and to develop a wave theory that accounts for the effect of the asymmetries.
DE: water-waves; kinematics-; anemometers-; extreme-waves; wave-height; offshore-structures; offshore-engineering; laser-Doppler-anemometry
ID: laser-Doppler-anemometry; 2-D-transient-water-waves
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-General-2321
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9211403
AN: 2772764

                                                                    177 of 380
TI: Non-linear interaction of water waves with submerged obstacles.
AU: Yeung,-R.W.; Vaidhyanathan,-M.
AF: Dep. Nav. Archit. and Offshore Eng., Univ. California, Berkeley, CA 94720, USA
SO: INT.-J.-NUMER.-METHODS-FLUIDS. 1992. vol. 14, no. 9, pp. 1111-1130
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The interaction of two-dimensional water waves with a fixed submerged cylinder is studied using a finite difference scheme with boundary-fitted co-ordinates. A mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian (MEL) formulation is used to satisfy the fully non-linear free surface conditions. The diffraction of small-amplitude water waves by a cylinder is examined for various wavelengths and amplitudes of the incident wave. Fourier analyses of the incident and diffracted waves are performed to determined their spectra. An example of a larger-amplitude wave breaking over a cylinder is also studied. The non-linear numerical solutions are compared with those of experiments and linear theory where appropriate.
DE: hydrodynamics-; fluid-mechanics; wave-forces; water-wave-motion; nonlinear-wave-interactions; flow-around-objects; numerical-analysis; offshore-engineering
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9212811
AN: 2772720

                                                                    178 of 380
TI: Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles.
AU: Dalrymple,-R.A.
AF: Cent. Appl. Res., Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Delaware, Newark, DE 19716, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1992. vol. 118, no. 2, pp. 193-201
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Using the results of large-scale wave tank tests of monochromatic waves breaking on sandy beaches, Larson and Kraus have shown that storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) equilibrium beach profiles can be segregated in terms of two-dimensionless parameters, which involve wave and sediment characteristics. Here, by rearranging their results, a single dimensionless parameter is developed that predicts the occurrence of storm or normal profiles. The profile parameter (P = gH super(2)@)d0/(w super(3)T)) uses deep-water wave characteristics to distinguish the two profile types. Using shallow-water data the shallow-water Dean number, H sub(b)/(wT) can serve the same purpose. Further, a Froude number representation of the sediment fall velocity, w super(2)/(gH sub(0)), is shown to be an important parameter for equilibrium profiles.
DE: beach-profiles; storms-; beaches-; wave-effects; wave-processes-on-beaches; sediments-; hydrodynamic-equations; prediction-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9211400
AN: 2772471

                                                                    179 of 380
TI: Coherent acoustical radiation from breaking waves.
AU: Farmer,-D.M.; Ding,-Li
AF: Inst. Ocean Sci., P.O. Box 6000, Sidney, B.C. V8L 4B2, Canada
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1992. vol. 92, no. 1, pp. 397-402
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Observations of sound radiated by breaking surface waves have been detected with a four-hydrophone array in the open ocean. Time delay measurement is used to evaluate the position of individual breaking events. However, the coherence between different pairs of hydrophones is anisotropic. Together with the spectral distribution, these signals are interpreted in terms of the spatial distribution and nature of the sound generation mechanism.
DE: breaking-waves; noise-sound; hydrophones-; acoustic-arrays; sound-spectra
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9212696
AN: 2771473

                                                                    180 of 380
TI: Detecting surface schools of fish with a SLAR: Real-time target detectability and enhancement.
AU: Lyne,-V.D.; Griffiths,-F.B.; Harris,-G.P.; Parslow,-J.S.; Clift,-S.H.
AF: CSIRO Div. Fish., Mar. Lab., P.O. Box 1538, Hobart, Tas. 7001, Australia
SO: INT.-J.-REMOTE-SENS. 1992. vol. 13, no. 10, pp. 1927-1941
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In preliminary trials of an X-band side-looking airborne radar (SLAR), surface schools of fish were seen as distinct targets. Radar backscatter from the fish schools was influenced by the behaviour of the fish and the angle of the radar beam relative to the prevailing wind and wave conditions. Detection of targets was partly masked by radar backscattering from modulation of the Bragg-scale waves by oceanic phenomena, radiometric variations due to aircraft motion, and "bursts" from breaking waves. Fish spotting was carried out by three methods: (i) visually, (ii) with the grey-scale image on a monitor supplied with the radar, and (iii) with a real-time display produced by a microcomputer interfaced to the SLAR processor unit. Target signals were enhanced on the microcomputer in real-time using a difference filter, and colour-coding was used to differentiate the strength of targets. This procedure revealed several weak backscattering targets not visible in the unenhanced black-and-white display. The "boiling" surface disturbances created by frenzied feeding schools of jack mackerel were detected visually within a few kilometres of the aircraft and by the radar out to a range of 30 km. Non-feeding schools of southern bluefin tuna created a surface rippling, similar to that caused by light winds, which could not be detected without image enhancement.
DE: radar-imagery; airborne-sensing; aggregation-; fish-detection; backscatter-; fishery-technology
ID: side-looking
CL: Practical-Aspects-of-Fisheries:-Instruments,-tools,-equipment-1564
JA: ASFA --1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
IC: CS9211268
AN: 2751411

                                                                    181 of 380
TI: Alongshore sediment transport rate.
AU: Kamphuis,-J.W.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Queen's Univ., Kingston, Ont. K7L 3N6, Canada
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1991. vol. 117, no. 6, pp. 624-641
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper describes a study of alongshore sediment transport rate based on three-dimensional hydraulic model experiments performed with regular and irregular waves. Deep-water wave conditions, wave heights through the surf zone, wave-breaking angles, longshore current velocity distribution, and the bed-load and suspended-load sediment transport distributions are measured simultaneously to form a coherent data set. An expression is developed linking sediment transport rate to wave steepness, beach slope, relative grain size, and breaking angle. The expression compares well with published field data.
DE: sediment-transport; longshore-sediment-transport; beach-slope; grain-size; wave-steepness; breaking-waves; transport-processes
ID: breaking-angle
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9210470
AN: 2746032

                                                                    182 of 380
TI: Studies for dispersion of radioactive effluents from an atomic power plant in coastal waters at Kalpakkam.
AU: Nair,-K.V.K.; Iyengar,-M.A.R.; Ganapathy,-S.; Kannan,-V.; Rajan,-M.P.; Kamath,-P.R.
AF: Environ. Surv. Lab., Health Phys. Div., BARC, Kalpakkam 603 102, India
SO: INDIAN-J.-MAR.-SCI. 1983. vol. 12, no. 1, pp. 11-16
IS: ISSN 0379-5136
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Drift bottle and dye discharge studies from a jetty at a point 180 m (A) away from the shore at Kalpakkam, India, showed that the discharges moved shoreward and breaking waves appeared to be the dominant factor affecting water movement. Similar studies at 270 (B) and 320 m (C) from the shore showed that wind and wind driven currents were the factors affecting water movement. Detailed observations at B showed it to be the most suitable location for the discharge of radioactive effluents. Studies on vertical distribution of density showed density stratification during the rainy season. Density stratification is likely to be strengthened with warm water discharges.
DE: radioactive-waste-disposal; nuclear-power-plants; site-selection; pollution-dispersion; coastal-waters; ISW,-India,-Tamil-Nadu,-Kalpakkam
CL: Pollution:-Characteristics,-behavior-and-fate-1503
JA: ASFA --3:-Aquatic-Pollution-and-Environmental-Quality (Q5)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
IC: DP9100687
AN: 2743376

                                                                    183 of 380
TI: The effect of rain in calming the sea.
AU: Tsimplis,-M.N.
AF: 47 Kodrigtonos St., Athens 104 34, Greece
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1992. vol. 22, no. 4, pp. 404-412
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The effect of rain in damping surface waves appears to be significant in the estimation of wind speed from the backscatter of radar signal from the sea surface. The radar backscatter depends on the small-scale roughness of the sea surface. This is modified by the generation of capillary and gravity-capillary ripples by raindrops and by the increased damping of the wavelengths of 10-cm scale. The phenomenon is also important in wave generation and wave breaking, since in both cases the short wavelengths play a key role. A laboratory experiment has been performed to investigate the damping of water waves by rain in the absence of wind. Rain of intensity of 300 mm/h falls on mechanically generated progressive waves. The wave amplitude is measured before the wave enters and after it exits the rain section of a tank 2.35 m long. On the assumption of exponential damping, it is found that the effect of rain can be described by an eddy viscosity  upsilon  sub(E)  approximately equals  0.3 cm super(2)/s. The major part of the damping is attributed to turbulence; enhanced viscous decay due to small-scale random and unresolved motions.
DE: sea-surface; surface-water-waves; wave-damping; rain-; backscatter-; turbulence-; viscosity-; radar-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9209518
AN: 2732305

                                                                    184 of 380
TI: The time-dependent collapse of a rotating fluid cylinder.
AU: Killworth,-P.D.
AF: Robert Hooke Inst., Obs., Clarendon Lab., Parks Rd., Oxford OX1 3PU, UK
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1992. vol. 22, no. 4, pp. 390-397
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The behavior of a reduced-gravity cylinder of fluid, released from rest in a rotating system, is considered. The eventual steady state, found by normal principles of conservation of angular momentum, mass, and potential vorticity, is shown to have less energy than the initial state. This energy deficit can be accounted for by time-dependent motions, instabilities, and dissipative effects (waves cannot propagate energy to infinity in this system since the active fluid is of finite extent). We show here that an extra feature, hitherto unconsidered, comes into play. The time-dependent motion allows occasional wave-breaking events, which can act as a mechanism to remove the energy deficit on short (i.e., inertial) time scales. Such a process has not been parameterized in ocean circulation models.
DE: eddy-viscosity; energy-dissipation; rotating-fluids; cylinders-; angular-momentum; breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9209520
AN: 2732229

                                                                    185 of 380
TI: Bore-like surf beat in a reef zone caused by wave groups of incident short period waves.
AU: Nakaza,-E.; Hino,-M.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Ryukyu Univ., Nishihara, Naha, Okinawa, Japan
SO: FLUID.-DYN.-RES. 1991. vol. 7, no. 2, pp. 89-100
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Resonant oscillation of sea surface elevation in coral reef zones is asserted to be excited by the change of radiation stress and breaking point due to the wave groups of incident short period waves. Numerical and laboratory experiments confirmed the generation of long-period oscillation and its nonlinear deformation into the "bore-like or tsunami-like surf beat" with a steep forward face. A resonance diagram is prepared for a design criterion.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; surf-beats; tidal-bores; water-wave-motion; wave-groups; coral-reefs; short-crested-waves; oscillatory-waves; numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9209421
AN: 2732206

                                                                    186 of 380
TI: Motion of a vortex near a free surface.
AU: Tyvand,-P.A.
AF: Dep. Agric. Eng., Agric. Univ. Norway, Box 65, 1432 Aas-NLH, Norway
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1991. vol. 225, pp. 673-686
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The early motion of a single vortex suddenly placed near a free surface is studied analytically. The general initial/boundary-value problem is solved in terms of a Taylor expansion in time. The vortex position and the surface elevation are determined to third order. We find a precise distinction between subcritical (weak) and supercritical (strong) vortices. All vortices start with retrograde horizontal motion. After a short time, subcritical vortices tend to turn and continue their motion in the prograde direction. Supercritical vortices cannot turn, but will continue their retrograde motion. They will accumulate a surface mound until surface breaking eventually occurs.
DE: fluid-mechanics; rotating-fluids; vortices-; surface-water-waves; water-wave-motion; wave-breaking; numerical-analysis; vorticity-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9209209
AN: 2732046

                                                                    187 of 380
TI: Measured internal kinematics for shoaling waves with theoretical comparisons.
AU: Griffiths,-M.W.; Easson,-W.J.; Greated,-C.A.
AF: Dep. Phys., Univ. Edinburgh, Mayfield Rd., Edinburgh EH9 3JL, UK
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1992. vol. 118, no. 3, pp. 280-299
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements of both the velocities and Eulerian accelerations have been made in the crests of waves at their breaking point. Measurement close to the wave surface (5 mm) has been made possibly by the use of a very rapid response laser Doppler anemometer. The results have enabled critical comparisons to be made with mathematical wave models used in offshore design. At low levels within the waves, there is agreement between the theories, and the predictions are conservative. However, in the high crest most models seriously underpredict the kinematics. Validation of the models based on previously available results is shown to be limited in scope. This experiment was conducted in a wave flume using monochromatic waves shoaling on a flat bed and on slopes of 1:50, 1:30, and 1:15. Breaking wave heights were about 0.1 m, surface tension effects were negligible, and breaking occurred over a range of nondimensional depth (d' = d/gT super(2)) from 0.004 to 0.035.
DE: kinematics-; shoaling-waves; breaking-waves; water-waves; offshore-engineering
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9209019
AN: 2730318

                                                                    188 of 380
TI: Shock waves in stellar atmospheres and breaking waves on an ocean beach.
AU: Wallerstein,-G.; Elgar,-S.
AF: Astronomy Dep., FM-20, Univ. Washington, Seattle, WA 98195, USA
SO: SCIENCE-WASH.. 1992. vol. 256, no. 5063, pp. 1531-1536
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The phenomenon of ocean waves breaking on a beach is analogous to shock waves in the atmosphere of a pulsating star. In both cases a velocity discontinuity is clearly present. In stars the upper, expanding layer halts and falls back so as to interact with the rising gas at a shock. Similarly, a bore on a beach reaches its maximum extension before sliding back onto the next incoming wave. Analogous quantities such as the surface gravity of the star and the beach gradient in the ocean have similar effects on the flows and the nature of the discontinuity between them. Phenomena that are not analogous include the thermodynamic properties of the two media. Ocean observations may help solve some problems in shock phenomena associated with stellar pulsation.
DE: breaking-waves; astronomy-; waves-on-beaches; wave-breaking; wave-processes-on-beaches; hydrodynamics-
ID: stellar-pulsation; shock-waves; velocity-discontinuity
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-General-2161
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9208773
AN: 2726622

                                                                    189 of 380
TI: Crest propagation speed of non-linear waves on uniformly sloping beaches.
AU: Zhang,-Aijun
AF: Natl. Mar. Data Inf. Serv., SOA, Tianjin 300171, People's Rep. China
SO: MAR.-SCI.-BULL.-HAIYANG-TONGBAO. 1991. vol. 10, no. 6, pp. 7-10
IS: ISSN 1001-6392
PY: 1991
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: In this paper, the calculating formula of crest propagation speed is given, the changes of crest propagation speed of incident non-linear waves perpendicular to coast on uniformly sloping beaches with the depth of waters and slope of the bottom is presented and the discrepancies between the crest speed and the phase speed are discussed. The results show that crest speed changes with the depth of waters far more complicatedly than the phase speed does; furthermore, it changes with the slope of the bottom. The accurate calculation of the crest speed, in terms of the criterion of wave breaking and the calculation of wave refraction near shore, is sometimes essential.
DE: nonlinear-waves; wave-crests; wave-propagation; wave-velocity
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9100980
AN: 2711608

                                                                    190 of 380
TI: Study of run-up of interfacial wave on a slope.
OT: Naibu kaimen-ha no shamen e no haiagari
AU: Noma,-T.; Fujihara,-M.; Urushino,-K.
AF: Natl. Res. Inst. Fish. Eng., Hasaki, Kashima-gun, Ibaraki 314-04, Japan
SO: BULL.-NATL.-RES.-INST.-FISH.-ENG.-JAPAN-SUIKOKEN-HOKOKU. 1991. no. 12, pp. 1-8
IS: ISSN 0388-9718
PY: 1991
LA: Japanese
LS: English; Japanese
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: An interfacial wave is an underwater undulation under a certain density structure of the sea. When interfacial wave enters to a slope, its wave height changes, its shape deforms, and, after breaking, it runs up as a bore. By test channel experiments the adaptability of the small amplitude wave theory to estimate wave height was studied and obtained as a limiting condition, energy transporting velocity-wave celerity ratio C sub(g)/C = 0.9, i.e., the limiting factor is lower layer thickness. This thickness can be defined as a breaking condition of interfacial wave. After breaking, the bore proceeds decreasing its height. Relation between bore height and its velocity, internal Froude number F sub(i) = 0.46. Bore height was estimated by energy loss using Harleman's resistance coefficient  tau .
DE: interfacial-waves; wave-amplitude; wave-breaking; methematical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: JA9100440
AN: 2704085

                                                                    191 of 380
TI: Numerical simulation of circulation in a Caribbean-type backreef lagoon. A preliminary study.
AU: Prager,-E.J.
AF: Coast. Stud. Inst., Louisiana State Univ., Baton Rouge, LA 70803, USA
SO: CORAL-REEFS. 1991. vol. 10, no. 4, pp. 177-182
IS: ISSN 0722-4028
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical model based on the vertically integrated equations of motion and continuity was used to simulate circulation in a shallow, well-mixed, Caribbean-type backreef lagoon. Great Pond Bay, St. Croix provided a suitable study site. Tides, wind, and the effect of waves impinging on the reef were incorporated within the model. Direction of simulated flow under various wind and wave regimes agrees well with patterns found during current meter and drogue tracking experiments. When momentum transfer over the reef due to wave breaking and set-up is added, the magnitude of flow within the lagoon, ranging 5-30 cm/s, also compares favorably to in situ measurements. Results of this study indicate that numerical modeling techniques potentially offer an accurate and cost-effective means to predict the pattern of water movement within coral-reef lagoons.
DE: mathematical-models; lagoons-; coral-reefs; simulation-; ASW,-Leeward-I.,-US-Virgin-I.,-St.-Croix
ID: water-circulation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
IC: MB9200011
AN: 2699954

                                                                    192 of 380
TI: Depth of penetration and lifetime of gas bubbles formed by the breaking of wind waves.
AU: Goncharov,-V.K.; Klement'-yeva,-N.Yu.
SO: OCEANOL.-ACAD.-SCI.-USSR. 1990. vol. 30, no. 3, pp. 284-288
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Systems of equations for the downward movement and solution of air bubbles are derived; the bubbles contain air captured from the atmosphere, which is treated either as a single-component ideal gas or as a mixture of nitrogen and oxygen. Numerical modeling is used to analyze bubble formation in the surface layer of the sea and to evaluate the modeling alternatives of representing the air present in the bubbles as a single-component gas or as a mixture of gases and of varying the assumed coefficient of gas diffusion through the boundary of the bubble.
DE: wave-breaking; surface-layers; diffusion-coefficients; surfactants-; mathematical-models; wind-waves; Langmuir-circulation; entrainment-
ID: air-bubbles
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9206175
AN: 2696253

                                                                    193 of 380
TI: Large air-sea gas fluxes associated with breaking waves.
AU: Wallace,-D.W.R.; Wirick,-C.D.
AF: Oceanogr. Atmos. Sci. Div., Dep. Appl. Sci., Brookhaven Natl. Lab., Upton, NY 11973, USA
SO: NATURE. 1992. vol. 356, no. 6371, pp. 694-696
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: The exchange of gases between the ocean and the atmosphere exerts an important influence on the cycling and global budget of trace gases. Air-sea gas flux is normally parameterized as the product of a gas-transfer velocity and the air-sea concentration difference. Despite suggestions that the parameterization might be inappropriate when air-bubble penetration occurs, this "thin-film" model remains widely accepted and is employed regularly in regional and global-scale models. Here we present a time series of near-surface dissolved O sub(2) from November to March in coastal waters. The time series is punctuated by sudden large increases in dissolved O sub(2) associated with surface wave activity. A numerical simulation including air injection by bubbles shows similar behaviour. If the observed O sub(2) "events" reflect the air-sea O sub(2) flux, our results imply that conventional parameterizations might seriously underestimate gas invasion of surface waters under storm conditions. Our study confirms that important questions remain concerning air-sea gas transfer at high wind speeds.
DE: gas-exchange; ocean-atmosphere-system; geochemical-cycle; bubbles-; surface-water-waves; storms-; wind-speed
ID: dissolved-oxygen
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9206137
AN: 2696010

                                                                    194 of 380
TI: (The dynamic residence time and its relations to wave runup and wave run-down at an embankment with 1:n = 1:6.).
OT: Die dynamische Verweilzeit und ihre Beziehungen zum Wellenauflauf und -ablauf an einer Deichboeschung 1:n = 1:6
AU: Fuehrboeter,-A.; Witte,-H.H.
AF: Joseph-Fraunhofer St. 35, D-W 3300 Braunschweig, FRG
SO: KUESTE. 1991. no. 52, pp. 1-31
IS: ISSN 0452-7739
PY: 1991
LA: German
LS: German; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The residence time shows in the form of a duration curve the time that an embankment is covered by water during wave run-up and run-down. The residence time D = 0% is associated with the highest run-up level and D = 100% with that of the lowest wave trough for a sequence of regular or irregular waves. The residence time duration curve is shown to provide a means for the prediction of extreme values (highest and lowest wave water levels). There are strong links between the residence time duration curve and the wave run-up/run-down, reflexion processes and the run-up/run-down velocities, each of which can be described as functions of the dimensionless breaker number  zeta . This includes also rough slopes and spectrally distributed waves. Attention is also drawn to the dominant influence of the slope (tan alpha  = 1:n) on the various kinds of wave loadings of embankments.
DE: wave-runup; embankments-; wave-breaking; wave-forces; water-waves
ID: coastal-engineering
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: BF9200596
AN: 2694334

                                                                    195 of 380
TI: A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics.
AU: Madsen,-P.A.; Murray,-R.; Soerensen,-O.R.
AF: Danish Hydraulic Inst., Agern Alle 5, DK-2970 Hoersholm, Denmark
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1991. vol. 15, no. 4, pp. 371-388
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new form of the Boussinesq equations is introduced in order to improve their dispersion characteristics. It is demonstrated that the depth-limitation of the new equations is much less restrictive than for the classical forms of the Boussinesq equations, and it is now possible to simulate the propagation of irregular wave trains travelling from deep water to shallow water. In deep water, the new equations become effectively linear and phase celerities agree with Stokes first-order theory. In more shallow water, the new equations converge towards the standard Boussinesq equations, which are known to provide good results for waves up to at least 75% of their breaking height. A numerical method for solving the new set of equations in two horizontal dimensions is presented. This method is based on a time-centered implicit finite-difference scheme. Finally, model results for wave propagation and diffraction in relatively deep water are presented.
DE: dispersion-; Boussinesq-approximation; mathematical-models; water-waves; coastal-engineering
ID: hydrodynamic-equations
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9205077
AN: 2683090

                                                                    196 of 380
TI: Breaking waves affecting microwave backscatter. 2. Dependence on wind and wave conditions.
AU: Jessup,-A.T.; Melville,-W.K.; Keller,-W.C.
AF: Appl. Phys. Lab., Univ. Washington, Seattle, WA, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1991. vol. 96, no. C11, pp. 20,561-69
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper is the second of a two-part series on using microwave techniques for detection and characterization of wave breaking. The statistics of sea spikes detected using the method described in Part 1 are investigated as functions of friction velocity u* and of a Reynolds number Re* based on u* and the dominant surface wavelength. For vertical (VV) and horizontal (HH) polarization, the frequency of sea spikes and their contribution to the mean radar cross section show a roughly cubic dependence on u*. The percentage of wave crests producing sea spikes, P sub(ss), is consistent with the Re* exponent of 1.5 reported by other investigators. At high friction velocities (u* between 40 and 50 cm/s), sea spikes contribute between 10% and 15% to the mean radar cross section for VV polarization and between 15% and 25% for HH polarization. The data suggest that the average radar cross section of an individual sea spike does not depend on u*. Measurements of Doppler frequency and bandwidth are used to investigate the kinematics of the breaking process.
DE: sea-state; microwave-imagery; scatterometers-; Doppler-sonar; wave-dynamics; wind-pressure; corrections-; ANW,-Chesapeake-Bay; Reynolds-number; synthetic-aperture-radar; backscatter-
ID: wave-breaking; sea-spikes; friction-velocity
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
IC: CS9203604
AN: 2672433

                                                                    197 of 380
TI: Breaking waves affecting microwave backscatter. 1. Detection and verification.
AU: Jessup,-A.T.; Melville,-W.K.; Keller,-W.C.
AF: Appl. Phys. Lab., Univ. Washington, Seattle, WA, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1991. vol. 96, no. C11, pp. 20,547-559
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper is the first of a two-part series concerning detection and characterization of wave breaking when using microwave techniques. The importance of wave breaking in both microwave remote sensing and air-sea interaction has led to this investigation utilizing a K sub(u) band continuous wave Doppler scatterometer. Simultaneous microwave, video, and environmental measurements were made during the SAXON-CLT experiment off Chesapeake Bay in the fall of 1988. The scatterometer was pointed upwind at an incidence angle of 45 degree  and had an illuminated area that was small compared with the wavelength of the dominant surface waves. This first paper presents the schemes developed to detect individual breaking waves and verification of the method using video recordings. The most successful scheme is based on thresholds in both the radar cross section and the Doppler bandwidth. Microwave events consisting of a sea spike in the radar cross section accompanied by a large bandwidth were found to be associated with the steep forward face of waves in the process of breaking. The location of the illuminated area with respect to the phase of the breaking wave and the stage of breaking influenced the detectability of individual breaking waves. Approximately 70% of the sea spikes associated with waves that produced whitecaps were identified by the successful detection scheme.
DE: microwave-imagery; backscatter-; scatterometers-; Doppler-sonar; air-sea-interaction; corrections-; ANW,-Chesapeake-Bay; analytical-techniques; synthetic-aperture-radar; Reynolds-numbers; wave-dynamics; videotape-recordings
ID: wave-breaking; sea-spikes
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
IC: CS9203605
AN: 2672394

                                                                    198 of 380
TI: Bubbles and the air-sea exchange of gases in near-saturation conditions.
AU: Woolf,-D.K.; Thorpe,-S.A.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., Univ. Southampton, Highfield, Southampton SO9 5NH, UK
SO: J.-MAR.-RES. 1991. vol. 49, no. 3, pp. 435-466
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical Monte-Carlo model incorporating the basic equations of bubble dynamics and a parameterization of upper ocean mixing is constructed. The development of the distribution and composition of bubbles, after the initial injection of air bubbles by breaking waves, in the upper ocean layer is modelled, and the transfer of nitrogen, oxygen, carbon dioxide and argon thereby determined. The variation of the flux of these gases with the supersaturation of each gas and with the strength of Langmuir circulation is investigated. An extension of the model elucidates the importance of bubbles at various wind speeds for each of the four gases. Bubble-mediated gas transfer will support supersaturations of typically 1-2% for nitrogen, oxygen, argon and other very poorly soluble gases, but will not support a globally significant supersaturation of carbon dioxide.
DE: atmospheric-boundary-layer; atmospheric-gases; supersaturation-; air-bubbles; dissolved-gases; surface-mixed-layer; mathematical-models; Langmuir-circulation; air-water-exchanges; air-sea-interaction
ID: gas-exchange; dissolution-flux
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9204035
AN: 2670546

                                                                    199 of 380
TI: Temperature effects on generation and entrainment of bubbles induced by a water jet.
AU: Hwang,-P.A.; Poon,-Y.-K.; Wu,-J.
AF: Quest Integrated, Inc., Appl. Phys. Div., 21414 68th Ave. S., Kent, WA 98032, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1991. vol. 21, no. 10, pp. 1602-1605
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A simple experiment simulating the jet feature of breaking waves is conducted to study quantitative effects of the water temperature on the generation of bubbles at the air-water interface and their entrainment into the water column. The results indicate that there is a critical water temperature for the inception of bubbles. Such a critical temperature can be attributed to changes of the surface tension and viscosity, both of which decrease as water temperature increases. Field measurements of the bubble entrainment depth, bubble size spectrum, and whitecap coverage are shown to have similar temperature dependencies as our observations.
DE: breaking-waves; water-temperature; simulation-; bubbles-; water-column; transport-processes; turbulent-entrainment; jets-; air-water-interface; air-water-exchanges
ID: temperature-effects
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9203098
AN: 2661066

                                                                    200 of 380
TI: Wave breaker indices in finite water depth.
AU: Li,-Yucheng; Dong,-Guohai; Teng,-Bin
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Dalian Univ. Technol., Dalian, People's Rep. China
SO: CHINA-OCEAN-ENG. 1991. vol. 5, no. 1, pp. 51-64
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Based on the analysis and comparison of wave breaker indices defined by geometric, kinetic as well as dynamic stabilities and verified by observation, the value  alpha , which is equal to H/Lthkd by Miche's result and may be modified by Goda's results, is suggested as the wave breaking criteria. The applicable values of  alpha  for pure waves or wave-current co-existing field are given in this paper. They are smaller than Miche's result (0.142), and they have been verified by model tests.
DE: water-wave-parameters; wave-breaking; breaking-waves; wave-dynamics; wave-current-interaction; numerical-analysis; nearshore-dynamics
ID: coastal-engineering
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9202994
AN: 2660133

                                                                    201 of 380
TI: Impact pressure of breaking waves on vertical and sloping walls.
AU: Kirkgoez,-M.S.
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Cukurova Univ., 01330 Adana, Turkey
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1991. vol. 18, no. 1-2, pp. 45-59
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Laboratory tests are conducted to measure the impact pressures of breaking waves on vertical, 5 degree  forward, and 5, 10, 20, 30, and 45 degree  backward sloping walls. The base structure of the wall has a foreshore slope of 1/10. Regular waves are used throughout the experiments for all wall angles. The maximum impact pressures on the wall are shown to satisfy the log-normal probability distribution. It is found from the present experiments that the impact pressures and resulting forces on sloping walls can be greater than those on a vertical wall. On the seven different walls tested, the maximum impact pressures occur most frequently slightly below the still-water level.
DE: wave-forces; breaking-waves; sea-walls; pressure-; coastal-engineering; simulation-
ID: hydrodynamics-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9203010
AN: 2660121

                                                                    202 of 380
TI: Vertical incidence backscatter and surface forward scattering from near-surface bubbles.
AU: McConnell,-S.O.; Dahl,-P.H.
CA: Washington Univ., Seattle (USA). Applied Physics Lab.
SO: TECH.-REP.-WASH.-UNIV.-APPL.-PHYS.-LAB. 1991. 29 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A234 432/3/GAR. Contract N00039-88-C-0054.
RN: APL-UW-TR-9022 (APLUWTR9022)
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This report presents results of acoustic measurements of vertical incidence backscattering and surface forward scattering from near-surface bubbles. Applications of this work are directed toward torpedo guidance control, and countermeasure technologies, such as detection and signal-processing constraints imposed by the near-surface environment. Acoustic measurements of the concentration and vertical extent of near-surface bubbles generated by breaking waves were made in the frequency range 15-50 kHz. The vertical incidence measurements, which were interspersed with the surface forward scattering measurements, produced a vertical profile of volume scattering cross section due to bubbles that decreased exponentially with depth. By integrating this profile in depth, a direct estimate of integrated volume scattering strength sigma I was made, which is a measure of total bubble concentration. The vertical incidence backscattering data and the forward scattering data, interpreted in terms of scattering and absorption by resonant bubbles, did not produce comparable trends in frequency and wind speed functional dependence, and differed significantly in overall level. A likely explanation for the observed differences between the two data sets is discussed.
DE: acoustic-properties; sound-measurement; backscatter-; forward-scattering; military-operations
ID: air-bubbles
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9200441
AN: 2651444

                                                                    203 of 380
TI: Diurnal and annual variations in mean profiles of Cn2.
AU: Fairall,-C.W.; Frisch,-A.S.
CA: National Oceanic and Atmospheric Adm., Boulder, CO (USA). Wave Propagation Lab.
SO: 1991. 42 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: PB91-181719/GAR.
RN: NOAA-TM-ERL-WPL-195 (NOAATMERLWPL195)
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: Individual profiles of turbulent refractive index structure function parameter, C sub(n) super(2) exhibited considerable vertical structure and temporal variability. The planetary boundary layer (PBL) is characterized by significant diurnal variations over land because of the daily solar heating cycle. Above the PBL, the turbulence is primarily due to instabilities associated with breaking gravity waves and local fluctuations due to a broad spectrum of gravity waves. A typical average C sub(n) super(2) profile for optical wavelengths that takes these physical differences into account by considering the PBL and free atmosphere separately was constructed. Physical models of turbulence in these two regimes are used as a basis for constructing the climatology.
DE: atmospheric-boundary-layer; atmospheric-turbulence; diurnal-variations; annual-variations; climatology-; solar-radiation
ID: turbulence-measurement
CL: Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Observations-and-measurements-at-sea-2242
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9200408
AN: 2644358

                                                                    204 of 380
TI: A numerical model of the vertical distribution of longshore currents on a plane beach.
AU: Dong,-P.; Anastasiou,-K.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Imp. Coll. Sci. and Technol., London SW7 2BU, UK
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1991. vol. 15, no. 3, pp. 279-298
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical method is developed to calculate longshore currents generated by monochromatic long-crested waves breaking on a plane beach. The method is based on the linearized time-averaged momentum equation in the longshore direction. The equation is solved numerically using a Galerkin method with a series of cosine functions as basis functions. Longshore current profiles across the surf zone at a range of elevations over vertical direction are presented and compared with experimental data. Although the turbulence model used at this stage is only a simple eddy viscosity model, reasonable agreement between computed and experimental results has been achieved.
DE: mathematical-models; waves-on-beaches; surf-zone; current-profiles; longshore-sediment-transport; wave-breaking
ID: longshore-currents
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9201487
AN: 2636454

                                                                    205 of 380
TI: The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves.
AU: Zelt,-J.A.
AF: Ocean Res. and Eng., 255 S. Marengo Ave., Pasadena, CA 91101, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1991. vol. 15, no. 3, pp. 205-246
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves on plane impermeable beaches is investigated with a Lagrangian finite-element Boussinesq wave mode. Wave breaking is parameterized with an artificial viscosity (diffusion) term in the momentum equation, and bottom friction is modelled with a term quadratic in the horizontal fluid velocity. Comparisons are presented with laboratory data of maximum run-up, shoreline motion, and spatial profiles of near-shore free-surface elevation for both steep (20 degree ) and gradual (2.88 degree ) slopes. It is shown that the inclusion of nonhydrostatic effects reduces the tendency of waves to break and improves the agreement of the numerical results with the laboratory run-up data. This allows higher amplitude waves to be modelled and larger propagation distances to be treated without the need to limit the wave steepness with artificial dissipation.
DE: wave-runup; wave-breaking; mathematical-models; beach-features; beach-slope; solitary-waves
ID: waves-on-beaches
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9201500
AN: 2636297

                                                                    206 of 380
TI: Incipient wave breaking.
AU: Kamphuis,-J.W.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Queen's Univ., Kingston, Ont. K7L 3N6, Canada
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1991. vol. 15, no. 3, pp. 185-203
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper studies incipient wave breaking in 225 hydraulic model test results. The measured values of breaking wave height are compared with earlier data and earlier expressions. It is found that the present measured values are substantially lower, because the tests used irregular waves on a natural beach. These results are more representative of field conditions and should bring about selection of lower values for design breaking wave height. The paper provides some relatively simple expressions to calculate breaking wave height.
DE: mathematical-models; hydraulic-models; wave-height; breaking-waves
ID: wave-breaking
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9201497
AN: 2636095

                                                                    207 of 380
TI: Statistical analysis of azimuth streaks observed in digitally processed CASSIE imagery of sea surface.
AU: Ouchi,-K.; Cordey,-R.A.
AF: Phys. Dep., King's Coll. London, Strand, London W2R 2LS, UK
SO: IEEE-TRANS.-GEOSCI.-REMOTE-SENS. 1991. vol. 29, no. 5, pp. 727-735
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: During the Canberra SAR Sea Imaging Experiment in 1987 (CASSIE'87), numerous azimuth streaks were observed by the X-band synthetic aperture radar (SAR). The data are digitally processed, enabling us to make accurate statistical analysis. The probability density function (PDF) and higher order intensity moments are first calculated and compared with theory for both the image areas containing a few and a large number of streaks. The results show that the PDF corresponding to the area of a few streaks fits well with a log-normal distribution, while the image intensity containing many streaks is found to obey K-distribution. The two-dimensional autocorrelation function (ACF) is shown to consist of a central peak followed by a slow decay. The presence of a slow decay in range direction indicates that the backscattered radar cross section (RCS) is spatially correlated over the extent of breaking waves that the considered to be the source of azimuth streaks. Based on the experimental observation, a theoretical model is postulated to account for the correlated non-Rayleigh scattering amplitude statistics and the random motion of scatterers. Attempts are then made to recover the range ACF of RCS from the image ACF and to predict the azimuth component of the image ACF.
DE: radar-imagery; synthetic-aperture-radar; sea-state; surface-water-waves; breaking-waves; rip-currents; tidal-currents; coastal-waters; image-processing
ID: azimuth-; statistical-analysis; CASSIE-; aximuth-streaks
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Data-acquisition-and-processing-2383; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9119194
AN: 2630158

                                                                    208 of 380
TI: Sediment characteristics, processes and stability of the beaches in the northern Kerala Coast, India.
AU: Samsuddin,-M.; Ramachandran,-K.K.; Suchindan,-G.K.
AF: Mar. Sci. Div., Cent. Earth Sci. Stud., P.O. Box No. 7250, Akkulam, Trivandrum 695 031, India
SO: J.-GEOL.-SOC.-INDIA. 1991. vol. 38, no. 1, pp. 82-95
IS: ISSN 0016-7622
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The cyclicity in the erosional and accretional pattern is monsoon controlled. The erosion during monsoon (May-August) and accretion during pre-monsoon (January-April) and post-monsoon (September-December) are well defined. The transport trends derived from the progressive changes in the grain-size characteristics show relatively better correlation with the measured trends where they are not influenced by the input of sediments from multiple sources. The obliquely approaching swell waves which generate intense northerly longshore currents during non-monsoon season favour accretion of the beaches. The foreshore in the accreted zones are gentler and are characterized by finer and negatively skewed sediments. This zone exhibits a higher period for the breaking waves. The converse is true in the beaches where erosion is prevalent during the monsoon season.
DE: erosion-; accretion-; beach-profiles; longshore-currents; sediment-transport; ISW,-India,-Kerala
ID: sediment-dynamics; monsoons-
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
IC: DP9100396
AN: 2626804

                                                                    209 of 380
TI: Evolution of a potential vorticity front over a topographic slope.
AU: Grimshaw,-R.; Yi,-Zengxin
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. New South Wales, P.O. Box 1, Kensington, N.S.W. 2033, Australia
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1991. vol. 21, no. 8, pp. 1240-1255
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Using the methodology of contour dynamics, the evolution of an interface separating two regions of constant potential vorticity is considered. The model equations are those for barotropic nondivergent flow over a topographic slope adjoined by a coastal barrier. The main focus is on the processes which lead to wave breaking for small-amplitude waves and, in general agreement with previous related work, it is found that wave steepening leads to the formation of thin filaments. The key parameter is found to be the ratio of the background potential vorticity to the discontinuity of potential vorticity across the front, with other parameters such as the topographic slope and the distance to the coast playing a relatively less significant role.
DE: slopes-topography; vorticity-; coastal-currents; wave-breaking
ID: fronts-; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9200825
AN: 2622171

                                                                    210 of 380
TI: Internal wave activity in Rotterdam Waterway.
AU: Pietrzak,-J.D.; Krannenburg,-C.; Abraham,-G.; Kranenborg,-B.; Wekken,-A.-van-der
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., Univ. British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C. V6T 1W5, Canada
SO: J.-HYDRAUL.-ENG. 1991. vol. 117, no. 6, pp. 738-757
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: A variety of internal wave mechanisms is observed in the partially mixed Rotterdam Waterway estuary due to the interaction between stratified tidal flow and topography. The topographically generated waves include lee waves, resonant trapped waves and critical layers, freely propagating waves, breaking internal hydraulic jumps at the banks, and rotor formation. Acoustic images and profiles of density and velocity are presented. The acoustic images are explained on the basis of basic internal wave theory. Mathematical models tend to ignore small-scale internal wave activity as a source of turbulent kinetic energy. The paper investigates whether it is justified to do so on the scale of the topography. It is concluded that for the observed internal waves this source of energy may not always be neglected when compared with the production by the background flow, in particular when first-model short internal waves are involved.
DE: internal-waves; tidal-motion; stratified-flow; bottom-topography-effects; acoustic-imagery; estuarine-dynamics; density-profiles; velocity-profiles; mathematical-models; ANE,-Netherlands,-Rotterdam
ID: hydraulic-engineering
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
IC: CS9200631
AN: 2619659

                                                                    211 of 380
TI: A model of the sound generated by breaking waves.
AU: Loewen,-M.R.; Melville,-W.K.
AF: R.M. Parsons Lab., MIT, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1991. vol. 90, no. 4, pt. 1, pp. 2075-2080
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: The sound produced from a single bubble, oscillating at its breathing mode frequency, and the bubble size distribution are used to model the sound produced by breaking waves. The data of Medwin and Daniel are used to evaluate the performance of the model. The model generates a damped sinusoidal pulse for every bubble formed, as calculated from the bubble size distribution. If the range from the receiver to the breaker is known then the only unknown parameters are  epsilon , the initial fractional amplitude of the bubble oscillation, and L, the dipole moment arm. If the product  epsilon  x L is independent of the bubble radius the model reproduces the shape and magnitude of their measured sound spectrum accurately. The success of this simple model implies that the inverse problem (calculation of the bubble size distribution from the sound power spectrum) may be solved without the need to explicitly identify individual bubble pulses in the acoustic time series.
DE: air-bubbles; sound-generation; acoustic-models; mathematical-models; ambient-noise
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205; Underwater-Acoustics:-Propagation-of-sound-2203; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9119360
AN: 2607311

                                                                    212 of 380
TI: Wave decay and its characteristics in surf zone.
AU: Gu,-Jialong; Shen,-Xianrong
AF: Hohai Univ., Nanjing, People's Rep. China
SO: CHINA-OCEAN-ENG. 1991. vol. 5, no. 2, pp. 139-152
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.
DE: wave-dissipation; wave-setup; wave-setdown; breaking-waves; energy-dissipation; cnoidal-waves; sediment-transport; wave-processes-on-beaches
ID: surf-zone; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9119388
AN: 2606937

                                                                    213 of 380
TI: Sodar observations of the stable lower atmospheric boundary layer at Barrow, Alaska.
AU: Cheung,-Tak-Kee
AF: Nav. Oceanogr. Atmos. Res. Lab., Monterey, CA 93943-5006, USA
SO: BOUNDARY-LAYER-METEOROL. 1991. vol. 57, no. 3, pp. 251-274
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Events in the stably stratified lower atmospheric boundary layer within the first several hundreds of meters at Barrow, Alaska were recorded from 27 March to 5 April 1990 using an acoustic sounder (sodar), a tethered balloon, radiosondes, and an instrumented meteorological tower. These events include ground-based and low-level inversion layers, gravity waves, breaking waves, and multiple-layer structures. Even though these events are commonly found in a stable boundary layer, it is perhaps surprising to find them in such a slowly changing environment and over a terrain that is essentially devoid of immediate orographic influence.
DE: atmospheric-boundary-layer; atmospheric-circulation; stratification-; boundary-layers; meteorology-; Alaska-; PNW,-USA,-Alaska,-Barrow
ID: troposphere-; atmosphere-
CL: Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Structure,-mechanics-and-thermodynamics-2243
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Arctic-Westward (PNW)
IC: CS9118262
AN: 2598686

                                                                    214 of 380
TI: Evolution of a gravity wave spectrum through a current gradient.
AU: Trulsen,-G.N.; Dysthe,-K.B.; Trulsen,-J.
AF: Univ. Tromsoe, Tromsoe, Norway
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1990. vol. 95, no. C12, pp. 22,141-151
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Transformation of a wind wave spectrum through a region of nonuniform current is investigated. It is shown how an evolution equation for the spectral action can be arrived at by the scaling arguments introduced by Phillips. A numerical model based on this equation is applied to two different current systems (a head-on current and a shear current). The model also contains an indicator of excess wave breaking activity. It is pointed out that the short wave part of the spectrum (less than 10 cm, say) is not expected to be well predicted by models like the one presented here. This is probably because excess wave breaking of the longer waves is expected to generate short waves or short-scale surface roughness, an effect not accounted for in these models.
DE: air-sea-interaction; wind-wave-generation; gravity-waves; wave-spectra; short-wave-long-wave-interactions; surface-roughness; mathematical-models
ID: dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9117233
AN: 2582734

                                                                    215 of 380
TI: Radar sea returns -- ocean-ripple spectrum and breaking-wave influence.
AU: Wu,-Jin
AF: Air-Sea Interaction Lab., Coll. Mar. Stud., Univ. Delaware, Lewes, DE 19958, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1990. vol. 20, no. 12, pp. 1985-1993
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Radar cross sections reported by Guinard et al. are normalized with respect to their mean value obtained with different bands but at the same wind velocity. The results confirm that there are significant differences between returns with VV and HH polarizations. At high wavenumbers (k > 0.5 rad cm super(-1)), the HH-returns retain the trend of increasing continuously with the Bragg wavenumber; this is believed to be caused by the surface roughness produced by individual braking waves. Contributions of returns produced by each mechanism are then discussed for radars having various bands. Functional, power-law type, dependence of returns on the wind-friction velocity is also found to vary systematically with the Bragg wave-number; the exponent of power law increases with the Bragg wavenumber, following k super(1/3).
DE: radar-imagery; sea-surface; water-ripples; breaking-waves; wave-measurement; wave-number; surface-roughness; numerical-analysis
ID: dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9116777
AN: 2577826

                                                                    216 of 380
TI: Cross-shore wave transformation and mean flow circulation.
AU: Thieke,-R.J.; Sobey,-R.J.
AF: Dep. Eng., Cambridge Univ., Cambridge CB2 1PZ, UK
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1990. vol. 14, no. 5, pp. 387-415
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An analysis of wave and current evolution in shoaling and breaking waves in the cross-shore plane adopts the integral method used successfully for turbulent shear flows. The field equations are integral conservation equations for mass, momentum and energy which describe the cross-shore flow as an initial value problem. Reynolds' stress closure assumes added complexity as a result of the fluctuating wave motion. For the wave fluctuations, closure relationships consistent with the integral methodology are based on profiles of mean quantities established from steady Fourier wave theory. Within the surf zone, turbulence closure is dominated by breaking wave energy dissipation. Computations reproduce the trends of wave shoaling, set-up and undertow, and the global trends compare favorably with field and laboratory data. The various contributions to the complete balances of mass, momentum and energy are examined in detail, leading to an especially descriptive picture of the evolutionary processes in the complete nearshore zone, from deep water through the shoaling, breaker and surf zones to the beach.
DE: mathematical-models; surf-zone; turbulence-; nearshore-dynamics; water-motion; water-currents; nearshore-currents
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9116325
AN: 2570924

                                                                    217 of 380
TI: A "virtual power" function for estimating the alongshore transport of sediment by waves.
AU: Morfett,-J.C.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Brighton Polytech., Brighton BN2 4GJ, UK
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1990. vol. 14, no. 5, pp. 439-456
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A transport formula is presented which is based upon the rate of energy dissipation in breaking waves. It incorporates a dimensionless grain size parameter, and has been calibrated against field and laboratory data.
DE: sediment-transport; waves-on-beaches; breaking-waves; energy-dissipation; wave-energy; wave-effects
ID: longshore-sediment-transport; mathematical-models
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Methods-and-instruments-2262
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9116327
AN: 2570902

                                                                    218 of 380
TI: Laboratory study of wave-breaking over bars and artificial reefs.
AU: Smith,-E.R.; Kraus,-N.C.
AF: Coast. Eng. Res. Cent., U.S. Army Eng. Waterw. Exp. Stn., 3909 Halls Ferry Rd., Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1991. vol. 117, no. 4, pp. 307-325
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: One-hundred eight regular-wave tests and 12 random-wave tests were performed in a tank to investigate properties of waves breaking on irregular beach profiles. In the tests, solid objects representing natural barred profiles, terraced profiles, and artificial reefs were installed on a concrete slope of 1/30. Wave conditions covered deep-water steepnesses from 0.0085 to 0.09. A large data base of previous measurements of wave breaking on plane slopes was also compiled and analyzed for comparison to the barred profile measurements. Significant differences were found in such properties as breaker type, breaker depth and height indices, plunge distance, and splash distance for plane and barred slopes. The ratio of wave height and water depth of random waves transforming over a bar was not constant, as previously reported from field measurements, but showed a bimodal distribution with maxima of approximately unity at the bar crest and foreshore and minima of approximately 0.45 in the offshore and bar trough.
DE: wave-height; water-depth; wave-dynamics; nearshore-bars; sand-bars; artificial-reefs; coastal-engineering
ID: wave-breaking
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9115544
AN: 2558384

                                                                    219 of 380
TI: A boundary-integral method for water wave motion over irregular beds.
AU: Cooker,-M.J.
AF: Dep. Math., Univ. Bristol, Bristol BS8 1TW, UK
SO: ENG.-ANAL.-BOUNDARY-ELEM. 1990. vol. 7, no. 4, pp. 205-213
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper describes a numerical method for solving the fully nonlinear equations of motion for gravity waves propagating over an irregular rigid bed, in two dimensions. The scheme is based on a boundary-integral method developed by Dold and Peregrine, and extended by Tanaka et al. In this paper the method is extended to describe wave propagation over an irregular bed contour, and follows, in that the domain is unbounded in the horizontal, with static flow at infinity. The method's capability is demonstrated with computations of a wave breaking on a submerged elliptical shoal.
DE: fluid-dynamics; water-wave-motion; flow-over-surfaces; gravity-waves; wave-propagation; wave-breaking; boundary-layers; mathematical-models
ID: boundary-value-problems
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Benthic-boundary-layer-2165
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9115121
AN: 2555133

                                                                    220 of 380
TI: Corner problems and global accuracy in the boundary element solution of nonlinear wave flows.
AU: Grilli,-S.T.; Svendsen,-I.A.
AF: Cent. Appl. Coast. Res., Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Delaware, Newark, DE 19716, USA
SO: ENG.-ANAL.-BOUNDARY-ELEM. 1990. vol. 7, no. 4, pp. 178-195
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The numerical model for nonlinear wave propagation in the physical space, developed by Grilli, et al., uses a higher-order BEM for solving Laplace's equation, and a higher-order Taylor expansion for integrating in time the two nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. In this paper, global and local accuracy of the model are improved by using a more stable free surface representation based on quasi-spline elements and an improved corner solution combining the enforcement of compatibility relationships in the double-nodes with an adaptive integration which provides almost arbitrary accuracy in the BEM numerical integrations. Global accuracy of the computations with the new corner solution is studied by solving nonlinear water wave flows in a two-dimensional numerical wavetank.
DE: fluid-dynamics; water-wave-motion; nonlinear-waves; wave-propagation; breaking-waves; solitary-waves; mathematical-models
ID: boundary-value-problems
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9115118
AN: 2555105

                                                                    221 of 380
TI: SBEACH: Numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change. Report 2. Numerical formulation and model tests.
AU: Larson,-M.; Kraus,-N.C.; Byrnes,-M.R.
CA: Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: TECH.-REP.-U.S.-ARMY-COAST.-ENG.-RES.-CENT. 1990. 120 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A222 824/5/GAR.
RN: CERC/TR-89-9-2 (CERCTR8992)
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: This report is the second in a series on the numerical model SBEACH (Storm-induced SEAch CHange). SBEACH calculates dune and beach erosion produced by storm waves and water levels; bar formation and movement produced by breaking waves are also simulated. The model is empirically based and was originally developed from a large data set of net cross-shore sand transport rates and beach profile change observed in large tanks. In the present report, the capability of the model to simulate berm and dune erosion is evaluated using recently acquired field data from both US east and west coasts. Hypothetical storm events are also simulated to demonstrate model applicability and potential uses for predicting initial adjustment of beach fill and its response to storm action including poststorm recovery. (Prepared in collaboration with Lund Univ., Sweden. Inst. of Science and Technology.)
DE: mathematical-models; simulation-; storms-; beach-features; beach-nourishment; beach-accretion; coastal-morphology
ID: beach-erosion
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9101690
AN: 2540878

                                                                    222 of 380
TI: Marginal mixing theories.
AU: Garrett,-C.
AF: Cent. Earth Ocean Res., Univ. Victoria, Victoria, B.C., Canada
CO: R.W. Stewart Symp., Victoria, B.C. (Canada), 25 May 1990
SO: R.W.-STEWART-SYMPOSIUM. 1991. vol. 29, no. 2 pp. 313-339
IS: ISSN 0705-5900
ST: ATMOSPHERE-OCEAN. vol. 29, no. 2
NT: Incl. bibliogr.: 54 ref.
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine); F (Freshwater)
AB: Mixing near the sloping boundaries of oceans or lakes may be a significant mechanism of diapycnal transport. The basic physics of this is reviewed, with emphasis on the reduction of the effectiveness of the process due to both reduced stratification and the restratifying secondary circulation driven by buoyancy forces. This restratification is shown to reduce the effectiveness of intermittent mixing events as well as steady mixing. It is argued that for boundary mixing to be effective in the abyssal ocean it must extend sufficiently far from the boundary that the stratification can be maintained; this may be true for breaking bottom-reflected internal waves. The alongslope flow implied by steady-state boundary mixing theories is downwelling-favourable and has a magnitude related to the thickness and other properties of the boundary layer.
DE: boundary-layers; stratification-; oceanography-; limnology-; mathematical-models
ID: mixing-processes
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CA9100498
AN: 2531157

                                                                    223 of 380
TI: Air bubbles produced by breaking wind waves: A laboratory study.
AU: Hwang,-P.A.; Hsu,-Y.-H.L.; Wu,-Jin
AF: Air-Sea Interaction Lab., Coll. Mar. Stud., Univ. Delaware, Lewes, DE, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1990. vol. 20, no. 1, pp. 19-28
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: Air bubbles produced by breaking wind waves are measured in a laboratory tank to study bubble clouds produced in freshwater under various wind and wave conditions. Vertical entrainment of bubbles and their size compositions are found to be influenced greatly by wave structures. The significant wave height appears to be the appropriate scaling length for the vertical distribution of bubble concentrations. Their horizontal distribution, on the other hand, correlates well with the group characteristics of waves. Bubble populations on the water surface are influenced by both wind stress and surface wave height; more specifically, they are governed by the Reynolds number incorporating both effects. Other reported field and laboratory data are shown to follow well the functional variations deduced herewith.
DE: breaking-waves; wind-waves; distribution-; entrainment-; fresh-water
ID: air-bubbles
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9108069
AN: 2528253

                                                                    224 of 380
TI: Evidence of internal swash associated with Sulu Sea solitary waves?.
AU: Chapman,-D.C.; Giese,-G.S.; Collins,-M.G.; Encarnacion,-R.; Jacinto,-G.
AF: Woods Hole Oceanogr. Inst., Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA
SO: CONT.-SHELF-RES. 1991. vol. 11, no. 7, pp. 591-599
IS: ISSN 0278-4343
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Vertical temperature profiles were measured near the shelf edge off the coast of Palawan Island (Philippines) during the passage of several "rip bands" of choppy surface waves. Such rip bands are commonly associated with internal waves. Coincident with the passage of one of the rip bands, the temperature near the bottom decreased by 2.5 degree C within 1.4 min, becoming colder than any water on the shelf. Furthermore, the apparent depth of our CTD decreased by about 8 m despite the fact that the "line-out" was held fixed. We interpret these limited data, along with a sea-level record, as evidence of internal swash created by breaking internal solitary waves which are generated by tidal flow over a shallow bank in the southeastern Sulu Sea.
DE: solitary-waves; wave-runup; shelf-edge-dynamics; ISEW,-Sulu-Sea; temperature-profiles; CTD-observations; ISEW,-Philippines,-Palawan-I.; sea-level
ID: internal-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
IC: MB9100987
AN: 2526813

                                                                    225 of 380
TI: A note on the generation and narrowness of periodic rip currents.
AU: Hammack,-J.; Scheffner,-N.; Segur,-H.
AF: Dep. Aerosp. Eng., Mech. and Eng. Sci., Univ. Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1991. vol. 96, no. C3, pp. 4909-4914
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Periodic rip currents on a wide planar beach are generated in the laboratory by shoaling water waves that are periodic in time and in two spatial directions: one normal (x direction) and one parallel (y direction) to the shoreline. These short-crested waves propagate in water of uniform depth with nearly permanent form. They are described analytically by a family of solutions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation (KP solutions of genus 2). During shoaling, genus 2 waves retain their spatial pattern past breaking, and they quickly generate periodic rip currents along the beach with a spacing of one-half the y wavelength of the incident waves. KP theory also provides a plausible explanation and prediction for the narrow widths, relative to their longshore spacing, of rip currents generated in this manner. An estimate of their widths is one-half the x wavelength of the incident waves.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; shoaling-waves; wave-propagation; mathematical-models; wave-breaking; periodicity-; width-; wavelength-; incident-waves
ID: rip-currents
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9112697
AN: 2522671

                                                                    226 of 380
TI: Microwave backscatter and acoustic radiation from breaking waves.
AU: Loewen,-M.R.; Melville,-W.K.
AF: R.M. Parsons Lab., Massachusetts Inst. Technol., Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1991. vol. 224, pp. 601-623
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An experimental study of the microwave backscatter and acoustic radiation from breaking waves is reported. Both the mean-square acoustic pressure and the backscattered microwave power correlate with the wave slope and dissipation, for waves of moderate slope (S < 0.28). The backscattered power and the mean-square pressure also correlate strongly. As the slope and wavelength of the breaking wave packet is increased, both the backscattered power and the mean-square pressure increase. A large portion of the backscattered microwave power precedes the onset of sound production and visible breaking. This indicates that the unsteadiness of the breaking process is important and that the geometry of the wave prior to breaking may dominate the backscattering. The amount of acoustic energy radiated by an individual breaking wave scaled with the amount of mechanical energy dissipated during breaking.
DE: microwave-imagery; acoustic-emission; backscatter-; wave-slope; wave-energy; wavelength-
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Underwater-Acoustics:-Propagation-of-sound-2203
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9112511
AN: 2520709

                                                                    227 of 380
TI: Comment on "Ambient and transient bubble spectral densities in quiescent seas and under spilling breakers" by H. Medwin and N.D. Breitz.
AU: Wu,-Jin; Hwang,-P.A.
AF: Air-Sea Interaction Lab., Coll. Mar. Stud., Univ. Delaware, Lewes, DE 19958, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1991. vol. 96, no. C1, pp. 865-866
PY: 1991
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Medwin and Breitz presented a series of measurements of near-surface oceanic bubbles. Their data, obtained at a depth of 25 cm below the sea surface under wind velocities of 12-15 m/s, were compared with those of Baldy's, obtained in a laboratory tank at depths of 25 and 30 cm below the mean water level under a wind velocity of 14 m/s. Despite very different experimental conditions generally existing in the field and lab tanks, the spectra of bubble densities obtained in these 2 studies were suggested by Medwin and Breitz to be in "apparently excellent agreement". They went on to state that as bubble densities depend only on the wind speed and not on the wave height, the laboratory and field data at a similar water depth under the same wind velocity are directly comparable. However, commenters Wu & Hwang demonstrate that the bubble data cannot be compared on the basis of wind speed alone, and that the apparent "agreement" can be explained if the wave conditions were included in the comparison.
DE: air-bubbles; breaking-waves; wind-speed; spilling-waves
ID: air-sea-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9112296
AN: 2519226

                                                                    228 of 380
TI: Littoral environment observation program.
AU: Smith,-E.R.; Wagner,-S.E.
AF: Coast. Eng. Res. Cent., U.S. Army Eng. Waterw. Exp. Stn., Vicksburg, MS 39180, USA
SO: J.-COAST.-RES. 1991. vol. 7, no. 3, pp. 595-605
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The Littoral Environment Observation Program (LEO) was instituted in 1968 to provide low-cost data on waves, currents, and sand movements along beaches. The data base currently consists of over 350 sites in the United States. Data collected from the program has been beneficial for design and monitoring of numerous projects. LEO data are not as accurate as measured data, but the program can provide data in areas where instrumentation cannot be placed or where funds are not available, and efforts are being made to improve the accuracy of LEO data. Future modifications to the program include transfer of the data base to personal computers, inclusion of beach width and berm height in the observations, and improvements to measurement techniques.
DE: beaches-; sediment-transport; winds-; breaking-waves; ocean-currents; sand-; USA-Coasts
ID: oceanographic-data
CL: Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Regional-studies,-expeditions-and-data-reports-2144
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9112139
AN: 2518608

                                                                    229 of 380
TI: Dunes and maritime forests (ecosystems of Florida, USA).
AU: Johnson,-A.F.; Barbour,-M.G.
AF: Florida Nat. Areas Invent., 1018 Thomasville Rd., No. 200-c, Tallahassee, FL 32303, USA
SO: ECOSYSTEMS-OF-FLORIDA. Myers,-R.L.;Ewel,-J.J.-eds. 1990. pp. 429-480
IS: ISBN 0-8130-1022-5
PY: 1990
LA: English
PT: B (Book)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish)
AB: Florida's 1990-km coastline is easily the longest in the coterminous United States. Of those 1900 km, 1200 km are sandy, mostly in the form of offshore barrier islands. The major nonsandy portions are the mangrove-bordered southern tip and the Big Bend of the Gulf coast, where the peninsula curves around to join the Panhandle. Both of these are areas of low or zero wave energy, where extremely gradual offshore slopes prevent large waves from breaking near shore; this, combined with a lack of sandy sediment, permits marshes or mangrove swamps to develop on open, unbarred coastlines.
DE: aquatic-communities; nature-conservation; resource-management; coastal-zone; ecological-associations; subtropical-zones; vegetation-cover; ASW,-USA,-Florida
ID: dunes-
CL: Aquatic-Communities:-Habitat-community-studies-1463
JA: ASFA --1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
IC: NO9101302
AN: 2517575

                                                                    230 of 380
TI: Laboratory study on macro-features of wave breaking over bars and artificial reefs.
AU: Smith,-E.R.; Kraus,-N.C.
CA: Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: TECH.-REP.-U.S.-ARMY-COAST.-ENG.-RES.-CENT. 1990. 237 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A225 689/9/GAR. XA-CERC.
RN: CERC-TR-90-12 (CERCTR9012)
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A laboratory experiment was conducted in a wave tank to examine macroscale features of wave breaking over bars and reefs. Submerged triangular-shaped obstacles representing bars and reefs were installed on a 1/30 concrete slope to cause wave breaking. Seaward and shoreward slopes of the obstacles were varied, as was the deepwater wave steepness, which resulted in 108 monochromatic wave tests and 12 irregular wave tests. Empirical expressions were determined for the wave properties investigated, which included breaker type, height, and depth; plunge, splash, and penetration distance; breaker vortex area; wave decay; wave reflection; and wave runup. Additionally, data acquired from other studies involving plane slopes were reanalyzed to determine breaker indices and plunge distance. Differences were found between wave properties on plane slopes and barred profiles.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-height; wave-dynamics; wave-reflection; sand-banks; sand-bars; reefs-
ID: wave-breaking
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9101263
AN: 2512766

                                                                    231 of 380
TI: Estuarine flow interaction with topography: Lateral and longitudinal effects.
AU: Dyer,-K.R.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Bidston Obs., Birkenhead, UK
SO: ESTUARINE-CIRCULATION. Neilson,-B.J.;Kuo,-A.;Brubaker,-J.-eds. 1989. pp. 39-59
IS: ISBN 0-89603-155-1
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish)
AB: The interaction of tidally oscillating stratified flow with topographical features in estuaries leads to the generation of secondary currents and lee waves. Though secondary currents are fairly well understood in rivers, in estuaries there is a paucity of field information, and tidally-averaged secondary flow patterns proposed in 1977 still remain largely unverified. Lee waves, on the other hand, are produced when stratified water flows over bed features. The waves can either travel within the estuary when the current wanes, or form an internal hydraulic jump if the internal Froude number becomes critical. The breaking produces intense mixing, and the resulting structures can be observed on echo-sounding records. This paper reviews these 2 aspects of estuarine flow, and concludes that they may be important features in estuarine dispersion and mixing.
DE: estuarine-dynamics; topographic-effects; lee-waves; tidal-currents; Froude-number; dispersion-; water-mixing
ID: oscillations-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: FA9101437
AN: 2501535

                                                                    232 of 380
TI: Characteristics and statistical distributions of waves on a muddy flat, northern coast of Hangzhou Bay.
AU: Chen,-Weiyue
AF: Inst. Estuarine and Coast. Res., East China Norm. Univ., Shanghai, People's Rep. China
SO: MAR.-SCI.-HAIYANG-KEXUE. 1990. no. 6, pp. 16-22
IS: ISSN 1000-3096
PY: 1990
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The 450 wave records collected on tidal flats at Zhangjiashe, northern coast of Hangzhou Bay (China), were analyzed. The wave characteristics, transformation of wave energy and statistical distribution of waves are discussed. Critical values of wave breaking are much smaller than the "conventional" values. The wave energy decays rapidly. Wave height correlates well with the Rayleigh distribution. Distribution of wave periods and the joint distribution of wave heights and periods deviate, however, from the theoretical distribution.
DE: wave-spectra; wave-height; statistical-analysis; tidal-flats; ISEW,-China,-People'-s-Rep.,-Hangzhou-Bay
ID: shallow-water-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
IC: CH9000893
AN: 2501509

                                                                    233 of 380
TI: The dissipation range of wind-wave spectra observed on a lake.
AU: Hansen,-C.; Katsaros,-K.B.; Kitaigorodskii,-S.A.; Larsen,-S.E.
AF: Risoe Natl. Lab., P.O. Box 49, DK-4000 Roskilde, Denmark
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1990. vol. 20, no. 9, pp. 1264-1277
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: Based on an interpretation of a field experiment it is argued that, due to breaking of wind waves in deep water, the dissipation of energy is restricted to a range of frequencies  omega  >  omega  sub(g) much higher than the frequency  omega  sub(m) of the dominant waves. In this dissipation range the spectrum has the form S( omega ) =  beta g super(2) omega  super(-5) where g is the acceleration due to gravity and  beta  = 0.025. For spectral wave components at  omega   less than or approximate to   omega  sub(g), only a local balance between energy input from the wind and the weak, third-order, nonlinear interaction is important. Asymptotically as  omega   much greater than   omega  sub(m) the wind input becomes unimportant, and the wave spectrum has the kitaigorodskii form of a Kolgomorov analog S( omega ) = 2a epsilon  sub(0) super(1/3)g super(4/3) omega  super(-4) where  epsilon  sub(0) is a constant flow of mean energy per unit surface area through the spectrum dissipated at high frequencies (when multiplied by g and water density  rho  sub(w)). From a method of M. S. Longuet-Higgins, the authors estimate the magnitude of the dissipation (due to wave breaking) and find the Kolmogorov constant to be a  approximately equals  0.6.
DE: wave-spectra; wave-dissipation; mathematical-models; freshwater-lakes; wave-breaking
ID: wind-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9111066
AN: 2499862

                                                                    234 of 380
TI: Random breaking waves: A closed-form solution for planar beaches.
AU: Dally,-W.R.
AF: Florida Inst. Technol., Dep. Oceanogr. and Ocean Eng., 150 W. University Blvd., Melbourne, FL 32901, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1990. vol. 14, no. 3, pp. 233-263
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Based on the assumption that in the surf zone, random waves behave as a collection of individual regular waves, a closed-form transformation of random variable is performed to yield the probability density function for wave height across a beach of uniform slope. Starting from a Rayleigh distribution well seaward of the surf zone, the transformation is accomplished by using linear wave theory for shoaling and an analytical solution of a model for decay of regular waves due to breaking. Comparisons of the solution to histograms from the DUCK'85 field experiment demonstrate the model's ability to reproduce salient changes in shape of the histogram as the surf zone is traversed. General expressions for characteristic wave heights (e.g. root-mean-square wave height) are also derived, and their transformation across the surf zone is found to depend distinctly on beach slope and mean wave steepness behavior that has been previously reported as trends in laboratory and field data.
DE: breaking-waves; surf-zone; random-processes; mathematical-models; probability-theory; wave-height
ID: waves-on-beaches
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9110999
AN: 2498502

                                                                    235 of 380
TI: Theoretical and measured underwater noise from surface wave orbital motion.
AU: Cato,-D.H.
AF: Def. Sci. and Technol. Organ., P.O. Box 706, Darlinghurst, N.S.W. 2010, Australia
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1991. vol. 89, no. 3, pp. 1096-1112
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper develops a theory of sound generation by orbital motion of sea surface waves (as distinct from motion directly resulting from wave breaking such as bubble oscillation) and compares the noise predictions with measurements in a carefully controlled experiment. It is shown that while standing waves result in distributed dipoles with vertical axes, other wave interactions result in dipoles with axes inclined to the vertical so that there are components with both horizontal and vertical axes. This paper predicts higher noise levels and different directionalities, and also determines the contribution from the evanescent or near field that dominates for receiver depths less than several hundred meters (depending on frequency) resulting in substantially higher noise levels at shallow receivers.
DE: sound-generation; noise-sound; ambient-noise; surface-noise; surface-water-waves; sound-propagation
ID: acoustic-models
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Methods-and-instruments-2202
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9110565
AN: 2497394

                                                                    236 of 380
TI: Analysis of surf zone turbulence.
AU: Svendsen,-I.A.
AF: Inst. Hydrodyn. and Hydraul. Eng., Tech. Univ., Lyngby, Denmark
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1987. vol. 92, no. C5, pp. 5115-5124
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements of turbulent kinetic energy k under surf zone waves are analyzed to show how k varies over depth, between breaker point and shoreline, and how k depends on the beach slope. It is found that the variation of k over depth is remarkably weak, large values being measured a few percent of the depth above the bottom. A simple model for the dissipation mechanism makes it possible to derive an empirical formula for the time-averaged k that accurately describes all the data considered reliable.
DE: water-wave-motion; wave-breaking; surf-zone; turbulent-flow; breaking-waves; mathematical-models
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9110549
AN: 2497280

                                                                    237 of 380
TI: Intrinsic frequency spectra of short gravity-capillary waves obtained from temporal measurements of wave height on a lake.
AU: Ataktuerk,-S.S.; Katsaros,-K.B.
AF: Dep. Atmos. Sci., Univ. Washington, Seattle, WA 98195, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1987. vol. 92, no. C5, pp. 5131-5141
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: Intrinsic frequency spectra of water waves in the range of 6-17 Hz were obtained as a function of both wind speed and wind stress from point measurements of wave height. In a lake with a limited fetch there are two types of surface motions causing Doppler shift in the frequencies of short waves: orbital velocity of long waves and surface wind drift. The former was estimated from long-wave amplitude by using a linear wave theory. The two techniques were found to produce comparable results. Experimental results showed that the spectral energy of short waves rapidly increased in response to increasing winds and jumped up by an order of magnitude when wave breaking occurred.
DE: water-wave-motion; gravity-waves; capillary-waves; wave-spectra; frequency-spectra; wind-stress; USA,-Washington,-Washington-L.
ID: lake-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9110576
AN: 2497244

                                                                    238 of 380
TI: The effect of wave breaking on wave spectrum in water of finite depth.
AU: Tung,-C.C.; Huang,-N.E.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., North Carolina State Univ., Raleigh, NC 27607, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1987. vol. 92, no. C5, pp. 5125-5130
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An approximate method is devised to compute the energy-containing portion of the spectrum of waves in water of finite depth, taking into account the effect of wave breaking. It is assumed that there exists a linear and Gaussian ideal wave train whose spectrum is first calculated using the wave energy flux balance equation without considering wave breaking. The Miche wave-breaking criterion for waves in water of finite depth is then applied to limit the wave elevation and establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the elevation and elevation's second time derivative of the ideal waves. Simple expressions for the mean value, the mean square value, and the spectrum of the breaking waves are then obtained, and numerical results are presented graphically.
DE: wave-breaking; water-wave-motion; wave-trains; wave-spectra; mathematical-models; energy-budget
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9110575
AN: 2497230

                                                                    239 of 380
TI: Wave forces on wall.
AU: Camfield,-F.E.
AF: Coastal Eng. Res. Cent., U.S. Army Eng. Waterw. Exp. Stn., Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1991. vol. 117, no. 1, pp. 76-81
PY: 1991
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: It is often necessary to compute wave forces on coastal structures located adjacent to shorelines. Such structures are subjected to the force of waves running up on the shoreline, and impacting on the structure. The Shore Protection Manual (1984) (SPM) presents an older method for determining such forces, but that method, as shown herein, will give overly high values for the wave force. A need exists to update the SPM method to incorporate additional information on run-up and surge forces, and to obtain a more reasonable solution for the wave force. The method presented herein revises the methodology presented in the SPM. The methodology is for broken waves, i.e., it is assumed that the wave will not reform into a nonbreaking wave between the breaking point and the shoreline.
DE: offshore-structures; wave-runup; surges-; methodology-; mathematical-models; breaking-waves; waves-on-beaches
ID: wave-forces
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9109731
AN: 2492530

                                                                    240 of 380
TI: Echoes from vertically striated subresonant bubble clouds: A model for ocean surface reverberation.
AU: McDonald,-B.E.
AF: Nav. Res. Lab., Washignton, DC 20375, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1991. vol. 89, no. 2, pp. 617-622
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A surface reverberation model for acoustic frequencies below several kHz is proposed based on weak scatter from inhomogeneities whose geometry is descriptive of recent ocean observation. Scatterers in this model are vertical cylinders of elliptical cross section representing either filamentary- or sheetlike subresonant microbubble clouds whose population decreases exponentially with depth. This geometry approximates intermediate-aged fossils of breaking waves and/or convective processes. Born approximation (weak scatter) results from this model show substantial agreement with observed surface backscatter cross sections as a function of wind speed, grazing angle, and acoustic frequency in the range 0.2-20 kHz. Almost all high-frequency weak backscatter in the model is specular reflection from surfaces of volume scatterers. Speculations involving Langmuir circulation are offered for the application of this model to surface reverberation at frequencies below a few hundred Hz, where data are scarce.
DE: sound-scattering; reverberation-; resonance-; backscatter-; mathematical-models
ID: air-bubbles
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9108938
AN: 2467538

                                                                    241 of 380
TI: An investigation of the collective oscillations of a bubble cloud.
AU: Yoon,-S.W.; Crum,-L.A.; Prosperetti,-A.; Lu,-N.Q.
AF: Natl. Cent. Phys. Acoust., Univ. Mississippi, University, MS 38677, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1991. vol. 89, no. 2, pp. 700-706
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Ocean ambient noise levels in the frequency range from a few hundred hertz to several tens of kilohertz are well correlated with wind speed. A physical mechanism that could account for some of this sound generation is the production of bubble clouds by breaking waves. A simple laboratory study of the sound generated by a column of bubbles is reported here. Good evidence is obtained that the bubbles within the column are vibrating in a collective mode of oscillation. Analytical calculations of the predicted frequency of vibration of this column as well as the dependence of this frequency on such parameters as bubble population and column geometry agree closely with the measured values. These results give evidence that the bubble plumes generated by breaking waves can be a strong source of relatively low frequency (< 1 kHz) ambient noise.
DE: air-bubbles; wind-speed; breaking-waves; sound-generation; oscillations-
ID: ambient-noise
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9108950
AN: 2467522

                                                                    242 of 380
TI: Vertical and horizontal structure in cross-shore flows: An example of undertow and wave set-up on a barred beach.
AU: Greenwood,-B.; Osborne,-P.D.
AF: Dep. Geogr., Scarborough Coll. Coastal Res. Group, Univ. Toronto, 1265 Military Trail, Scarborough, Ont. M1C 1A4, Canada
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1990. vol. 14, no. 6, pp. 543-580
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Eulerian measurements of the horizontal, cross-shore velocity field in the lowermost meter of the water column, in association with measurements of waves and the mean elevation of the water surface, across a nontidal, low relief, barred surf-zone were studied. Cross-shore circulation over the low relief, barred nearshore slope is predominantly two-dimensional over the outer bar in this case study. The near-bed mean flow is an undertow responding to the balance between the wave-generated, depth-dependent momentum flux directed onshore, the stress induced by the onshore mass transport under waves and wind, and the hydraulic pressure gradient induced by set-up of the mean water-level.
DE: waves-on-beaches; hydrodynamics-; wave-breaking; water-waves; undertow-; nearshore-currents; surf-zone; fluid-flow
ID: wave-setup
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9108778
AN: 2464773

                                                                    243 of 380
TI: (Sea bottom evolution of Marina di Meta during the years 1985-1987.).
OT: Evoluzione del fondale della Marina di Meta negli anni 1985-1987
AU: Buonocore,-B.; Moretti,-M.; Spezie,-G.; Turturici,-L.
AF: Ist. Geod. Idrogr., Ist. Univ. Nav., Napoli, Italy
SO: ANN.-FAC.-SCI.-NAUT.-IST.-UNIV.-NAV.,-NAPOLI. 1987-88. vol. 56, pp. 123-135
PY: 1987-88
LA: Italian
LS: English; Italian
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The bottom variations from 1985 to 1987 in the coastal area of Marina di Meta are reported. During very active wave action the sand distribution presents a longshore erosion with a pile under the breaking waves which, by the bottom slope, is located 3.5 m depth. The variation isolines are distributed parallel to the isobaths. In presence of weak wave action, the breaking line shrinks modifying substantially the variation isoline distribution. The quantitative mean budget of sand eroded volume is 18.000 m super(3) less than that deposited.
DE: bottom-topography; wave-action; coastal-erosion; sand-; MED,-Italy,-Meta
ID: coastal-zone
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
IC: FA9100651
AN: 2461010

                                                                    244 of 380
TI: Intertidal "trees": Consequences of aggregation on the mechanical and photosynthetic properties of sea-palms Postelsia palmaeformis  Ruprecht.
AU: Holbrook,-N.M.; Denny,-M.W.; Koehl,-M.A.R.
AF: Dep. Biol. Sci., Stanford Univ., Stanford, CA 94305-5020, USA
SO: J.-EXP.-MAR.-BIOL.-ECOL. 1991. vol. 146, no. 1, pp. 39-67
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Sea-palms Postelsia palmaeformis  are annual brown algae that grow on wave-swept rocky shores, often forming dense stands. Unlike most macroalgae, Postelsia  stands upright in air--like trees. The stipe flexibility that permits Postelsia  to withstand waves is provided by the low elastic modulus. (5-10 MPa) of stipe tissue; in spite of the weakness (low breaking stress,  approximately equals 1 MPa) of this tissue, a large amount of energy ( approximately equals 100 kJ/m super(3)) is required to break a stipe because they can be extended by 20-25% before breaking. Although made of such easily deformed tissue, Postelsia) can stand upright in air due to the width, (high second moment of area) and resilience of their stipes, but the brittleness (low work of fracture, 400-900 J/m super(2)) that accompanies this resilience renders them susceptible to breakage if they sustain deep scratches. Although wave-induced stresses experienced by individuals in aggregations are not lower than those experienced by isolated sea-palms, photon flux densities of photosynthetically active radiation within these dense groves are less than 10% of those above Postelsia) canopies.
DE: Postelsia-palmaeformis; Phaeophyta-; rocky-shores; wave-action; photosynthesis-; intertidal-environment; ecology-; biophysics-; exposed-habitats
ID: organism-aggregations; intertidal-"trees"
CL: Autecology:-Environmental-effects-1422; Botany:-General-1221
JA: ASFA --1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
IC: CS9107331
AN: 2458151

                                                                    245 of 380
TI: Autocorrelation function of non-Gaussian speckle in synthetic aperture radar images of dynamic sea surfaces.
AU: Ouchi,-K.; Burge,-R.E.
AF: Phys. Dep., King's Coll., Strand, London W2R 2LS, UK
SO: INT.-J.-REMOTE-SENS. 1991. vol. 12, no. 2, pp. 315-327
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper presents a detailed theory on the statistical properties of non-Gaussian speckle in the synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images of dynamic sea surfaces, where breaking or near-breaking waves are present. The elementary scatterers are considered to be either in random or uniform motions, and the magnitude of the motion is considered to be much greater for breaking waves than the background non-breaking waves. This compound backscattered field is then imaged by a SAR, resulting in a non-Gaussian speckle pattern. A general and simple expression is derived for the autocorrelation function (ACF) of the speckle intensity.
DE: radar-imagery; synthetic-aperture-radar; dynamic-topography; breaking-waves; backscatter-; autocorrelation-; oceanography-; backscattering-
ID: dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9107310
AN: 2455241

                                                                    246 of 380
TI: Re-examination of breaker-type classification on uniformly inclined laboratory beaches.
AU: Okazaki,-S.-I.; Sunnamura,-T.
AF: Inst. Geosci., Univ. Tsukuba, Ibaraki 305, Japan
SO: J.-COAST.-RES. 1991. vol. 7, no. 2, pp. 559-564
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Results of 150 runs of a wave-flume experiment using sloping bottoms with various gradients ranging from 1/20 to 1/0.5 indicated that the demarcation of breaker types can be described by the equation, H sub(o)/L sub(o) = N (tan  beta ) super(n), where H sub(o)/L sub(o) is the deep-water wave steepness,  beta  is the slope angle, and N and n are coefficients: N = 2.4 and n = 1.8 are given for the boundary between spilling and plunging breakers; N = 0.19 and n = 2.5 for plunging-collapsing boundary; and N = 0.074 and n = 2.4 for collapsing-surging boundary. The surf similarity parameter,  xi  sub(o) was found to represent these three boundaries: they were given by  xi  sub(o) = 0.5, 2.5, and 3.7, respectively.
DE: waves-on-beaches; wave-processes-on-beaches; classification-; surf-; hydrodynamic-equations; wave-tanks
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9107122
AN: 2451777

                                                                    247 of 380
TI: Water vapor flux at the sea surface.
AU: Smith,-S.D.
AF: Dep. Fish. and Oceans, Bedford Inst. Oceanogr., P.O. Box 1006, Dartmouth, N.S. B2Y 4A2, Canada
SO: BOUNDARY-LAYER-METEOROL. 1989. vol. 47, no. 1-4, pp. 277-293
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Methods and instrumentation for determining the rate of evaporation at the sea surface are reviewed. At experimental sites free of local influences, there is a consensus that the evaporation coefficient in neutral conditions C sub(EN) = 1.2 x 10 super(-3) at low and moderate wind speeds. Combining this with Businger-Dyer flux-gradient formulas, a parameterization scheme is proposed. Evaporation of spray droplets from breaking waves is expected to cause C sub(EN) to increase at high wind speeds, but no direct observations of this are found. Recently it has become possible to estimate water vapor flux in tropical regions from satellite data, opening the possibility of studying large-scale evaporative events as a function of both time and space.
DE: sea-surface; atmospheric-boundary-layer; moisture-transfer; water-vapour; measurement-; seawater-; meteorology-; boundary-layers; wind-
ID: evaporation-
CL: Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Air-sea-coupling-2244
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS8906552
AN: 2447529

                                                                    248 of 380
TI: Assessment of wave forces on submerged intake structure.
AU: Brahme,-S.B.; Purandare,-U.V.; Kumthekar,-M.J.; Khurjekar,-M.J.; Bapaye,-V.M.
AF: CWPRS, Khadakwasla, Pune 411 024, India
CA: Karnataka Reg. Engineering Coll., Suratkal (India)
CO: 3. Natl. Conf. on Dock and Harbour Engineering, Suratkal (India), 6-9 Dec 1989
SO: THIRD-NATIONAL-CONFERENCE-ON-DOCK-AND-HARBOUR-ENGINEERING,-6-9-DECEMBER-1989.-PROCEEDINGS. 1989. pp. 141-148
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
AB: A submerged cylindrical intake well having an external diameter of 12 m and height of 5.76 m was installed at -8.0 m contour, off the southern coast of Saurashtra coastline, India. Hydraulic model studies were conducted to determine the maximum horizontal and vertical forces resulting due to breaking wave conditions at the intake well for different conditions of tidal water levels, and by reproducing the condition of protective pitching and also without it. It was found that under unprotected condition a maximum horizontal force of 387 tonnes would occur. A maximum uplift of 172 tonnes would also occur with a phase lag of 10 degrees. With the protective works the maximum horizontal and uplift forces were found to be 257 tonnes and 129 tonnes respectively. Factors of safety were worked out against sliding and it is recommended that anchoring by 560 tonnes is essential.
DE: wave-forces; breaking-waves; hydraulic-models; ISW,-India,-Gujarat
ID: cylindrical-structures
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Pipelines-2325
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
IC: DP9000148
AN: 2431829

                                                                    249 of 380
TI: Waves breaking on a beach -- an overview.
AU: Nagendrakumar,-B.; Ravindran,-M.; Goekcesu,-S.
AF: IIT, Ocean Eng. Cent., Madras 600 036, India
CA: Karnataka Reg. Engineering Coll., Suratkal (India)
CO: 3. Natl. Conf. on Dock and Harbour Engineering, Suratkal (India), 6-9 Dec 1989
SO: THIRD-NATIONAL-CONFERENCE-ON-DOCK-AND-HARBOUR-ENGINEERING,-6-9-DECEMBER-1989.-PROCEEDINGS. 1989. pp. 93-100
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference); O (Review-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: One of the problems in studying wave breaking, particularly with regard to the resulting forces on coastal structures, is to find some measure of the strength of a breaking wave in terms of total momentum lost from the wave field in a breaking event, but only in the recent past it has been possible to calculate the flow field approximately in the absence of the structure. Direct observations show that there are many causes for the breaking of water waves, for example: a wind blowing, shoaling, refraction, by depth current, concentrating wave energy, random or deterministic superposition of waves and relative motion between the water and abstade, such as moving ship or a stationary cylinder in a current. An account is presented both of present knowledge of the breaking of steady water waves on a prismatic beach and those aspects relevant to wave induced motions in the surf zone.
DE: coastal-structures; beaches-
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: DP9000142
AN: 2431725

                                                                    250 of 380
TI: Breakage models: Lognormality and intermittency.
AU: Yamazaki,-H.
AF: Johns Hopkins Univ., Chesapeake Bay Inst., The Rotunda 315, 711 W. 40th St., Baltimore, MD 21211, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1990. vol. 219, pp. 181-193
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A breakage model for the statistical distribution of the dissipation rate is proposed: this model, B-model, is a modification of the Gurvich & Yaglom model (1967) taking the criticism of Mandelbrot (1974) into account. The B-model uses the beta distribution for the breakage coefficient  alpha . The universal power spectrum of velocity for the B-model has a slightly flatter slope (positive correction) than the "-5/3" in contrast to all other previously proposed models.
DE: water-wave-motion; breaking-waves; wave-breaking; wave-spectra; statistical-models; coefficients-; fluid-mechanics
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9102626
AN: 2396721

                                                                    251 of 380
TI: Approximate estimation of energy spectra of breaking waves in near-shore shallow waters.
AU: Tao,-Yaoshen; Guo,-Zhibing
AF: Dep. Ship and Ocean Eng., Shanghai Jiaotong Univ., Shanghai, People's Rep. China
SO: OCEAN-TECHNOL.-HAIYANG-JISHU. 1990. vol. 9, no. 1, pp. 25-32
PY: 1990
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: As a result of the effect of the topography, waves tend to be refracted when they are approaching the shore, resulting in changes in wave direction and wave elements. The approximate estimation of the conversion between the wave spectra in deep water and that in shallow water when waves are subject to refraction is discussed and the conversion factor T is also defined. An approximate approach is provided for solving the wave energy attenuation factor.
DE: wave-spectra; water-waves; approximation-; shallow-water
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9000389
AN: 2394846

                                                                    252 of 380
TI: Bubble-mediated aerosol production as a consequence of wave breaking in supersaturated (hyperoxic) seawater.
AU: Stramska,-M.; Marks,-R.; Monahan,-E.C.
AF: Mar. Sci. Inst., Univ. Connecticut, Avery Point, Groton, CT 06340, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1990. vol. 95, no. C10, pp. 18281-288
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The influence of changes in the degree of saturation of the surface waters, with respect to the major atmospheric gases, on the aerosol productivity of an individual whitecap has now been inferred from results recently obtained using the University of Connecticut's Whitecap Simulation Tank IV. As the level of dissolved oxygen increased from 100% saturation to 130%, i.e., to a significant degree of supersaturation, the production of aerosol droplets by the whitecap generated by a standard laboratory breaking wave was found to increase by a factor of 2.4 in the case of submicron radius droplets, while the generation of larger droplets (r > 2.5  mu m) was observed to increase by at least a factor of 4.0. As a consequence of these findings, a multiplier, defined in terms of the degree of gas saturation, has been introduced as a term in the various sea surface aerosol generation models.
DE: air-sea-interaction; aerosols-; whitecaps-; breaking-waves; atmospheric-chemistry; dissolved-oxygen; bubbles-; simulation-; numerical-analysis
ID: dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9100703
AN: 2375429

                                                                    253 of 380
TI: Modulation of short waves by surface currents: A numerical solution.
AU: Hwang,-P.A.; Shemdin,-O.H.
AF: Ocean Res. and Eng., Pasadena, CA 91125, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1990. vol. 95, no. C9, pp. 16311-318
NT: Special sect.: Tower ocean wave and radar dependence experiment, part 2.
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Modulation of short waves by surface currents subjected to wind input and breaking dissipation is investigated. The dissipation is expressed as a power law function of the action density. The solution is presented in the form of an integral equation, and the method of characteristics is applied to obtain numerical results. The numerical solution compares favorably with the relaxation theory when the surface current is weak, and it can be applied to a strong current condition, where the linear assumption used in the derivation of the relaxation theory is no longer valid. The modulation response to various wind and wave parameters, such as short-wave wavelength, surface wind stress, long-wave frequency and steepness, different dissipation functions, and interaction length or duration between long and short waves, are discussed.
DE: air-sea-interaction; surface-currents; surface-water-waves; wave-current-interaction; water-wave-motion; numerical-analysis
ID: dynamical-oceanography; short-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9100672
AN: 2375313

                                                                    254 of 380
TI: Drag and dislodgment of an intertidal macroalga: Consequences of morphological variation in Mastocarpus papillatus  Kuetzing.
AU: Carrington,-E.
AF: Hopkins Mar. Stn., Dep. Biol. Sci., Stanford Univ., Pacific Grove, CA 93950, USA
SO: J.-EXP.-MAR.-BIOL.-ECOL. 1990. vol. 139, no. 3, pp. 185-200
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Survival of intertidal macroalgae depends on their ability to withstand the large hydrodynamic forces generated by breaking waves, an ability that may be a function of both the morphology and size of the plant. Mastocarpus papillatus  Kuetzing is an intertidal red alga that exhibits a broad range of morphologies varying in papillar length and density, thallus thickness, and degree of branching. Drag coefficients of M. papillatus  are highly variable, but this variation decreases at high water velocities (3-4 m multiplied by s super(-1)). Other intertidal macroalgae have similar ranges of drag coefficients at high water velocities. Regression analysis indicates that drag force is primarily determined by the planform area of the thallus and is not strongly influenced by morphology. The diameter of stipes (where mechanical failure most often occurs) of mature thalli do not increase in proportion to the area supported, suggesting that thalli in habitats with heavy wave action may be size-limited regardless of their morphology.
DE: intertidal-environment; waves-; morphology-; plant-morphology; Mastocarpus-papillatus
ID: water-currents; variability-
CL: Botany:-Taxonomy-and-morphology-1223
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 2368531

                                                                    255 of 380
TI: Do we really know how to scale the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate  epsilon  due to breaking of oceanic internal waves?.
AU: Gargett,-A.E.
AF: Inst. Ocean Sci., Sidney, B.C. V8L 4B2, Canada
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1990. vol. 95, no. C9, pp. 15,971-974
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper questions a recent claim (Gregg, 1989) that a first-order understanding of the link between internal waves and turbulence has been achieved. It is demonstrated that (1) the theoretical basis of this result is extremely sensitive to an ad hoc assumption about the nature of the wavelength at which wave energy is delivered to dissipation (turbulence), (2) the method used by Gregg (1989) to calculate instantaneous wave field energy level E is incorrect and will seriously underestimate E in cases where E is greater than E sub(GM), the energy level of the GM (Garret and Munk, 1975) canonical internal wave field, and (3) the range of variation of E and buoyancy frequency N in the data sets reported by Gregg (1989) is not sufficient to rule out alternative scalings.
DE: water-wave-motion; internal-waves; turbulence-; eddy-kinetic-energy; internal-wave-breaking; mathematical-models
ID: dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2368472

                                                                    256 of 380
TI: High-resolution thermistor chain observations in the upper Chesapeake Bay.
AU: Sarabun,-C.C.,Jr.; Dubbel,-D.C.
SO: JOHNS-HOPKINS-APL-TECH.-DIG. 1990. vol. 11, no. 1-2, pp. 48-53
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Selected results from four years (1984-87) of thermistor chain data and coincident measurements of conductivity, temperature, and depth, current speed and direction, and acoustic backscatter are presented. The data exemplify some supertidal features that were ubiquitous during the measurement periods: subsurface intrusions with mixing and high-frequency internal waves on their surfaces; estuarine surface fronts; monochromatic, high-amplitude internal wave trains; breaking internal waves; and broadband internal wave fields. The authors discuss the effects of these features on mixing and transport in estuaries and their implications for sampling strategies and the interpretation of results.
DE: waves-; instrumentation-; thermistors-; temperature-measurement; conductivity-sensors; thermistor-chains; research-; instruments-; ANW,-Chesapeake-Bay
ID: oceanographic-equipment; research-and-development; Chesapeake-Bay
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-TSD-distribution,-water-masses-and-circulation-2146; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 2356507

                                                                    257 of 380
TI: Bubbles as sources of ambient noise.
AU: Pumphrey,-H.C.; Williams,-J.E.F.
AF: Dep. Eng., Cambridge Univ., Trumpington St., Cambridge CB2 1PZ, UK
SO: IEEE-J.-OCEAN.-ENG. 1990. vol. 15, no. 4, pp. 268-274
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: It has been known for some years that the Knudsen region of the ambient noise spectrum is associated with breaking waves. Recent work has shown that this is the case even at low sea states, when there is little or no observable whitecapping. It has also been shown that the main mechanism which produces the noise is free oscillations of bubbles. In this paper, we describe some experimental results which seem to confirm these facts and to refute various alternative theories involving spray impacts and turbulent forcing of bubble oscillations.
DE: ambient-noise; marine-environment; offshore-engineering
ID: bubbles-
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2355556

                                                                    258 of 380
TI: An experimental investigation of a vertical wall response to breaking wave impact.
AU: Kirkgoez,-M.S.
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Cukurova Univ., 01330 Adana, Turkey
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1990. vol. 17, no. 4, pp. 379-391
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Laboratory experiments are conducted to measure the impact pressures and resulting deflections from breaking oscillatory waves on a vertical wall with 1/10 foreshore slope. The maximum impact pressure data on the wall are statistically analysed and the relationships between the magnitudes of impact pressures and forces, and their durations, are investigated. The greatest wall deflection at the point of measurement is caused by an impact which has a maximum pressure of 3.6 x 10 super(4) Pa, corresponding to 50% probability in the log-normal distribution. It is found that the longer-lasting low impact forces are more effective in producing the larger wall deflections.
DE: wave-forces; breaking-waves; offshore-structures; simulation-; numerical-analysis
ID: hydrodynamics-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2353164

                                                                    259 of 380
TI: Large aperture array measurements of the vertical ambient noise field.
AU: Sotirin,-B.J.; Hodgkiss,-W.S.
CA: Scripps Inst. of Oceanography, La Jolla, CA (USA). Marine Physical Lab.
SO: TECH.-MEMO.-SCRIPPS-INST.-OCEANOGR.-MAR.-PHYS.-LAB. 1989. 45 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A220 165/5/GAR.Contracts N00014-87-K-0225, N00014-87-C-0127.
RN: MPL-TM-411 (MPLTM411)
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: Use of a large aperture vertical array allows investigation into the fine-scale structure of the directional ambient noise field. Frequency and directional spectral estimates are calculated during the passage of a local storm, providing a detailed study of ambient noise levels at low frequencies as wind speed increases from 2 m/s to 12 m/s over a 21 hour period. Spectral levels of horizontal beams reflect distant sources. Spectral levels of beams directed toward the surface and the bottom display a threshold type behavior, suggesting the abrupt onset of a source mechanism such as breaking waves. Subsequent thresholds may indicate a change in source mechanism such as the conversion from spilling breakers to plunging breakers.
DE: ambient-noise; measuring-devices; wind-waves; sound-generation; water-column
ID: noise-sound
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Methods-and-instruments-2202
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2344937

                                                                    260 of 380
TI: On the Petrov-Galerkin finite element numerical modeling for coastal currents.
AU: Wu,-Zheng
AF: Fudan Univ., Shanghai, People's Rep. China
SO: COAST.-ENG.-HAIAN-GONGCHENG. 1989. vol. 8, no. 4, pp. 1-9
PY: 1989
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The numerical solution for the problem of coastal currents which are induced by breaking waves in a coastal zone was studied. A general accurate formulation of the Petrov-Galerkin finite element scheme for one-dimensional convection-diffusion equations with a restrictive condition for its test functions was derived. Four elementary test function expressions are given and a valid numerical calculation scheme for the coastal current problem is presented. It is shown by two numerical examples that this new scheme is superior in comparison with other classical schemes.
DE: finite-element-method; numerical-analysis; mathematical-models
ID: coastal-currents
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2342778

                                                                    261 of 380
TI: Physical approach of propagation phenomena and action of regular and breaking waves.
OT: Approche physique des phenomenes de propagation et de l'action des houles regulieres et deferlantes
AU: Marchal,-J.L.J.
AF: LHCH Lab., Univ. Liege, Liege, Belgium
SO: J.-HYDRAUL.-RES.-J.-RECH.-HYDRAUL. 1988. vol. 26, no. 2, pp. 159-178
PY: 1988
LA: French
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: We think that to progress in the mechanism of regular and breaking wave propagation, it is necessary to realize more physical studies from which only coherent theories can be established. This method is applied in the paper. We explain in this way the physical meaning of the regular wave propagation but also the complex mechanism of their breaking shape even over a horizontal or inclined bottom. We present interesting results concerning breaking wave solicitations on vertical breakwaters and we compare their free surface shapes with the corresponding profiles obtained in our laboratory. We propose here a fundamental study which is defining important computation possibilities of complex phenomena like the regular and breaking wave action on fixed structures.
DE: water-waves; breaking-waves; breakwaters-; wave-action
ID: wave-propagation
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2328859

                                                                    262 of 380
TI: A microwave technique for measuring surface tension.
AU: Wallenberger,-P.
AF: Coll. Mar. Stud., Univ. Delaware, Lewes, DE 19558, USA
CA: Marine Technology Soc., Washington, DC (USA)
IEEE Ocean Engineering Soc., New York, NY (USA)
CO: Oceans '89, Seattle, WA (USA), 18-21 Sep 1989
SO: OCEANS-'-89:-THE-GLOBAL-OCEAN.-VOLUME-5:-DIVING-SAFETY-AND-PHYSIOLOGY,-OCEAN-ENGINEERING-TECHNOLOGY. 1989. p. 1719
ST: OCEANS-'-89.
NT: Summary only.
RN: IEEE-89CH2780-5 (IEEE89CH27805)
PY: 1989
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: "Classical" methods for measuring surface tension involve breaking the surface by inserting a plate or ring, or by taking a sample and forming drops. Therefore non-contact methods for measuring surface tension are desirable. The frequency-wavelength dispersion relation for surface waves in a fluid was combined with the concept of Bragg resonance between water waves and microwaves to predict that surface tension can be estimated by observing microwave backscatter from gravity-capillary waves and by measuring appropriate variables such as water density and illumination incidence angle. A model to predict the radar scattering coefficient as a function of either water wave or microwave frequency was implemented in FORTRAN code and found to be in close agreement with measurements.
DE: microwave-radiometers; backscatter-; measurement-; mathematical-models; computer-programmes
ID: surface-tension
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2328805

                                                                    263 of 380
TI: Radar returns from the sea surface--Bragg scattering and breaking waves.
AU: Phillips,-O.M.
AF: Dep. Earth and Planet. Sci., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1988. vol. 18, no. 8, pp. 1065-1074
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Recent ideas on the structure of the equilibrium range of wind-generated ocean waves are applied to the question of radar backscattered returns from the sea surface. It is shown that the backscattering cross section can be represented as the sum of separate contributions from Bragg-scattering and from individual breaking events.
DE: mathematical-models; radar-imagery; sea-surface; wind-measurement; backscatter-
ID: wind-wave-generation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2328737

                                                                    264 of 380
TI: Egyptian geese Alopochen aegyptiacus  with young in surf at Dassen Island, South Africa.
AU: Underhill,-L.G.
AF: Dep. Math. Stat., Univ. Cape Town, Rondebosch 7700, South Africa
SO: CORMORANT. 1989. vol. 17, no. 1-2, p. 77
PY: 1989
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Between 31 October and 4 November 1988, I observed three broods of Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus  goslings with their parents in the sea off the shore of Dassen Island, southwestern Cape, South Africa, consisting of two newly hatched young, six quarter grown young and six three-quarter grown young, respectively. When disturbed, the parent geese and their young entered the sea through waves breaking over rocks, allowing the surf to submerge them completely, in the manner of penguins.
DE: avoidance-behavior; defensive-behavior; parental-behaviour; juveniles-; avoidance-reactions; protective-behaviour; Alopochen-aegyptiacus; PSW,-South-Africa,-Dassen-I.
CL: Autecology:-Behavior-1423
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Westward (PSW)
AN: 2320730

                                                                    265 of 380
TI: Lateral distribution of suspended sediments in nearshore waters of muddy coast of Lianyungang Harbour.
AU: Chen,-Dechang; Jin,-Liu; Tang,-Yinde; Yu,-Zhiying
AF: Inst. Estuarine and Coast. Res., East China Norm. Univ., Shanghai, People's Rep. China
SO: OCEANOL.-LIMNOL.-SIN.-HAIYANG-YU-HUZHAO. 1989. vol. 20, no. 6, pp. 544-553
IS: ISSN 0029-814X
PY: 1989
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In Lianyungang Harbour (China), two basic physical processes of sediments movement in nearshore waters of the muddy coast, i.e., the stir and suspension of sediments by waves inside the breaking wave zone and the dispersion of suspended sediments by tidal currents in the offshore region are described. From the statistical distribution of wave height, the expression of lateral distribution of sediments concentration of the water body is proposed according to the wave energy method. The breaking wave zone is known as the superposition of numerous sediments dispersing lines, thus, the expression beyond the breaking wave zone is established. The calculated sediments concentration distribution inside and outside the breaking wave from the two expressions correspond well with the measured results.
DE: sediment-transport; mud-banks; surf-zone; horizontal-distribution; INW,-China,-People'-s-Rep.,-Lianyungang
ID: resuspended-sediments
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 2314422

                                                                    266 of 380
TI: Reflection and transmission characteristics of regular and random waves from a submerged horizontal plate.
AU: Patarapanich,-M.; Cheong,-Hin-Fatt
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Natl. Univ. Singapore, 10 Kent Ridge Crescent, Singapore 0511, Rep. Singapore
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1989. vol. 13, no. 2, pp. 161-182
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Reflection and transmission characteristics of regular and random waves from a horizontal thin plate which is fixed at a certain submergence below the water surface, have been investigated. The experimental results are compared with the theoretical solution obtained numerically by the finite-element method using the linear-wave diffraction theory. The optimum conditions of the submerged plate to achieve minimum transmission of the waves, can be deduced from the results. Optimum plate width was found to be about 0.5-0.7 of the wave length above the plate with plate submergence kept at around 0.05-0.15 to induce wave breaking which is the main cause of energy dissipation.
DE: wave-reflection; wave-breaking; energy-dissipation; coastal-engineering; hydraulic-engineering; wave-propagation
ID: breakwaters-; submerged-horizontal-plate
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2313232

                                                                    267 of 380
TI: Prediction of breaking wave forces on vertical cylinders.
AU: Swift,-R.H.
AF: Univ. Manchester, Inst. Sci. and Technol., P.O. Box 88, Manchester M60 1QD, UK
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1989. vol. 13, no. 2, pp. 97-116
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method is presented for predicting breaking wave forces on vertical cylinders located on sloping beaches. The method takes into consideration the effects of beach slope, by incorporating certain experimentally-determined dimensionless properties of breaking waves. Drag, inertia and impact forces are separately determined. The method displays an encouraging level of agreement with published experimental results.
DE: hydrodynamics-; wave-forces; cylindrical-structures; beach-slope; drag-; inertia-; loads-forces; shallow-water
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2313175

                                                                    268 of 380
TI: Forces induced by breakers on piles and the kinematics of breakers.
AU: Li,-Yanbao
AF: Tianjin Univ., Tianjin, People's Rep. China
SO: J.-HYDRODYN.-SHUIDONGLIXUE-YANJIU-YU-JINZHAN. 1989. vol. 4, no. 2, pp. 103-110
IS: ISSN 1000-4874
PY: 1989
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Recent major research results on breaking wave forces on piles and the flow fields of breaking waves are reviewed. When breaking waves act on piles, impact forces are observed in addition to drag and inertia forces. Two methods for calculating breaking wave forces are introduced. One calculates impact forces using Karman theories while drag and inertia forces using Morison equation. The other calculates total forces using empirical formulas. The characteristics of these two methods and the further investigation which should be made in order to improve existing methods are discussed. Four numerical methods for describing flow fields of breaking waves are also introduced, which were developed respectively by Longuet-Higgins & Cokelet, Vinje & Brevig, McIver & Peregine, and Jansen. The principles and procedures for these methods are discussed together with some experiment results.
DE: wave-forces; wave-effects; piles-; coastal-engineering; kinematics-
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2312155

                                                                    269 of 380
TI: Study on wave decay and its characteristics in surf zone.
AU: Gu,-Jialong; Shen,-Xianrong
AF: Hehai Univ., Nanjing, People's Rep. China
SO: J.-HEHAI-UNIV.-HEHAI-DAXUE-XUEBAO. 1989. vol. 17, no. 5, pp. 38-47
IS: ISSN 1000-1980
PY: 1989
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In accordance with the similarities between waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and energy dissipation in the surf zone were derived based on the fundamental equation of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative crest wave height, wave energy, and radiation stress, are discussed. The values calculated with the proposed method are in good agreement with experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in studies of sediment transport in beaches with a gentle slope, especially in muddy beaches.
DE: wave-dissipation; wave-height; surf-zone; cnoidal-waves; mathematical-analysis
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2310484

                                                                    270 of 380
TI: Periodic waves in the surf zone: Analysis of experimental data.
AU: Hansen,-J.B.
AF: ISVA - Inst. Hydrodyn. and Hydraul. Eng., Tec. Univ. Denmark, DK-2800 Lyngby, Denmark
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1990. vol. 14, no. 1, pp. 19-41
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The paper discusses observed characteristics of some basic integral parameters for regular waves essential for the determination of the energy flux, the radiation stress, and the energy dissipation throughout the surf zone. The paper further indicates a connection to the parameters at the breaking point and hence a connection to the wave-shoaling area prior to the waves breaking on a beach. The variation of the integral (mainly time-averaged) wave parameters within the surf zone is in general given as a parametric description, calling for further theoretical work in this field.
DE: breaking-waves; mathematical-models; energy-dissipation; water-waves; wave-energy; shoaling-waves
ID: surf-zone
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2309658

                                                                    271 of 380
TI: Velocities in combined undertow and longshore currents.
AU: Svendsen,-I.A.; Lorenz,-R.S.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Delaware, Newark, DE 19716, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1989. vol. 13, no. 1, pp. 55-79
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The flow composed of a periodic wave motion with turbulent fluctuations caused by breaking and a (slowly varying) mean current is considered. The mean current consists of the combined cross-shore and longshore current velocities generated by the waves which means the profile of the total velocity is highly three dimensional. The Reynolds equations for the currents are derived and the influence of cross-shore and longshore currents on one another is neglected. For the special case of a cylindrical coast and turbulent shear stresses modelled by an eddy viscosity, the equations for the longshore velocity variation V(x,z) over depth and distance for the shore are found to satisfy a Poisson equation. A perturbation solution is derived to a second order for V(x,z) and the classical solutions for V(x) from the literature are found to be logically related to the new solution, which (briefly described) always yields somewhat larger velocities. Measurements in the literature show the same qualitative variation of the longshore velocity over depth but a detailed comparison is not made.
DE: current-velocity; mathematical-models; nearshore-dynamics; nearshore-currents; wave-current-interaction; water-depth; undertow-; ocean-circulation
ID: longshore-currents
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2309591

                                                                    272 of 380
TI: A prediction model for stationary, short-crested waves in shallow water with ambient currents.
AU: Holthuijsen,-L.H.; Booij,-N.; Herbers,-T.H.C.
AF: Delft Univ. Technol., P.O. Box 5048, 2600 GA Delft, Netherlands
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1989. vol. 13, no. 1, pp. 23-54
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical model for the hindcasting of waves in shallow-water is described and comparisons are made between observations and model results in a realistic field situation. The model is based on a Eulerian presentation of the spectral action balance of the waves rather than on the more conventional Lagrangian presentation. Wave propagation is correspondingly computed on a grid rather than along rays. The model accounts for refractive propagation of short-crested waves over arbitrary bottom topography and current fields. The effects of wave growth and dissipation due to wind generation, bottom dissipation and wave breaking (in deep and shallow water) are represented as source terms in the action balance equation. The computational efficiency of the model is enhanced by two simplifications of the basic balance equation. The first one is the removal of time as an independent variable to obtain a stationary model, justified by the relatively short travel time of waves in coastal regions. The second simplification is the parameterization of the basic balance equation in terms of a mean frequency and a frequency-integrated action density, both as function of the spectral wave direction.
DE: shallow-water; mathematical-models; significant-wave-height; wave-period; wave-breaking; bottom-topography; water-currents; wave-current-interaction
ID: short-crested-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2309573

                                                                    273 of 380
TI: Random breading waves: A closed-form solution for planar beaches.
AU: Dally,-W.R.
AF: Florida Inst. Technol., Dep. Oceanogr. and Ocean Eng., 150 W. University Blvd., Melbourne, FL 32901, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1990. vol. 14, no. 3, pp. 233-263
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Based on the assumption that in the surf zone, random waves behave as a collection of individual regular waves, a closed-form transformation of random variable is performed to yield the probability density function for wave height across a beach of uniform slope. Starting from a Rayleigh distribution well seaward of the surf zone, the transformation is accomplished by using linear wave theory for shoaling and an analytical solution of a model for decay of regular waves due to breaking. Comparisons of the solution to histograms from the DUCK'85 field experiment demonstrate the model's ability to reproduce salient changes in shape of the histogram as the surf zone is traversed.
DE: waves-on-beaches; wave-height; shoaling-waves; surf-zone; beach-slope; wave-climate; mathematical-models
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2309572

                                                                    274 of 380
TI: Across-reef flux and shallow subsurface hydrology in modern coral reefs.
AU: Roberts,-H.H.; Lugo,-A.; Carter,-B.; Simms,-M.
AF: Coastal Stud. Inst., Louisiana State Univ., Baton Rouge, LA 70803, USA
CO: 6. Int. Coral Reef Symp., Townsville, Qld. (Australia), 8-12 Aug 1988
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-SIXTH-INTERNATIONAL-CORAL-REEF-SYMPOSIUM,-TOWNSVILLE,-AUSTRALIA,-8th-12th-AUGUST-1988.-VOLUME-2:-CONTRIBUTED-PAPERS-MINI-SYMPOSIUM-1-TO-10-14. Choat,-J.H.;Barnes,-D.;Borowitzka,-M.A.;Coll,-J.C.;Davies,-P.J.;et-al.-eds.. 1988. pp. 509-515
IS: ISBN 0-7316-5607-5
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Field investigations conducted on a St. Croix (U.S. Virgin Islands) reef have yielded new data on the temporal and spatial variability of wave/current-driven processes in shallow forereef to backreef environments. Surface waves and currents were measured with an array of gage-pressure transducers and small ducted current meters. Highly sensitive pressure-driven tide gages measured long-term changes in water level. Sixteen shallow wells drilled on a transect across the reef provided samples for evaluating hydraulic response to external wave forcing and geochemistry of reef pore water. Under low-input wave conditions, strong lagoonward surge currents are created by waves breaking at the crest. Energy loss associated with wave breaking is  similar to 90% at low tide and  similar to 70% at high tide.
DE: hydrodynamics-; water-currents; surface-water-waves; ASW,-US-Virgin-I.
ID: coral-reefs
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 2304720

                                                                    275 of 380
TI: The role of breaking wavelets in air-sea gas transfer.
AU: Csanady,-G.T.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., Old Dominion Univ., Norfolk, VA 23508, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1990. vol. 95, no. C1, pp. 749-759
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Molecular diffusion sustains the flux of soluble gases on the water side of the air-sea interface. The "handover" of this flux to more efficient eddy mixing begins with the smallest eddies, of size l, which interact with the surface diffusion boundary layer (DBL), of thickness  delta . An exact solution of the advection-diffusion equation for the simple model of divergent stagnation point flow shows the mass transfer coefficient (velocity) k to be proportional to (aD) super(1/2) and DBL thickness  delta  to be proportional to (D/a) super(1/2), where a is divergence, D diffusivity. A thin DBL is maintained over divergences by upward velocity. At convergences, narrow downward plumes convey DBL fluid into the turbulent interior.
DE: ocean-atmosphere-system; air-sea-interaction; breaking-waves; air-water-exchanges; gas-exchange; mathematical-models
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2302051

                                                                    276 of 380
TI: Wave refraction and longshore current patterns along Calangute beach (Goa), west coast of India.
AU: Krishna-Kumar,-V.; Murty,-C.S.; Shenoi,-S.S.
AF: NIO, Dona Paula, Goa 403 004, India
SO: INDIAN-J.-MAR.-SCI. 1989. vol. 18, no. 3, pp. 184-188
IS: ISSN 0379-5136
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A wave refraction study for most predominant waves with 6, 8, 10 and 12 sec period and approaching from directions WNW, W and WSW was carried out along Calangute beach, Goa, India. The energy distribution and probable longshore/offshore current patterns are qualitatively assessed. The degree of refraction is less and no abnormal energy concentrations occur along this stretch. After breaking the waves give rise to many opposing flows forming circulation cells along the entire stretch. Zones of quasi-permanent rip currents were identified at Calangute and Candolim sections for 10 sec period waves approaching from WNW and W.
DE: longshore-currents; wave-refraction; nearshore-currents; rip-currents; ISW,-India,-Goa
ID: wave-current-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
AN: 2301179

                                                                    277 of 380
TI: Numerical simulation of wind wave surface profiles with tuned phase spectra.
AU: Varkey,-J.
AF: NIO, Dona Paula, Goa 403 004, India
SO: INDIAN-J.-MAR.-SCI. 1989. vol. 18, no. 3, pp. 177-183
IS: ISSN 0379-5136
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Phases of the individual harmonic components in a linear narrow band wave spectrum are uniformly random. It has been suggested that some sort of phase coupling and "locking" between the different spectral components would lead to nonlinear surface waves. The inverse method of computing the surface profile from a known autospectrum using transformed (tuned) phase spectrum with coupling of different natures was tested and the results are presented. Increased wave groupiness is found for higher spectral peak periods with phase coherency at the peak. Abnormally high breaking waves (freak waves) are generated when frequently dependent (by normal probability law) phase spectrum is used. Results suggest that external factors like currents, wind, boundaries (bottom) and other waves systems can cause changes in the phase spectrum to give rise to nonlinear processes.
DE: simulation-; wave-current-interaction; wind-waves; wind-wave-interaction
ID: inverse-methods; wave-spectra
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2301170

                                                                    278 of 380
TI: The interaction between a solitary wave and a submerged semicircular cylinder.
AU: Cooker,-M.J.; Peregrine,-D.H.; Vidal,-C.; Dold,-J.W.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. Bristol, Bristol BS8 1TW, UK
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1990. vol. 215, pp. 1-22
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: Numerical solutions for fully nonlinear two-dimensional irrotational free-surface flows form the basis of this study. They are complemented and supported by a limited number of experimental measurements. A solitary wave propagates along a channel which has a bed containing a cylindrical bump of semicircular cross-section, placed parallel to the incident wave crest. the interaction between wave and cylinder takes a variety of forms, depending on the wave height and cylinder radius, measured relative to the depth. Almost all the resulting wave motions differ from the behaviour which was anticipated when the study began. In particular, in those causes where the wave breaks, the breaking occurs beyond the top of the cylinder. The same wave may break in two different directions: forwards as usual, and backwards towards the back of the cylinder. In addition small reflected waves come from the region of uniform depth beyond the cylinder. The results found for solitary waves are contrasted with the behaviour of a group of periodic waves.
DE: shallow-water-waves; mathematical-models; bottom-topography-effects; wave-height; wave-forces; wave-breaking; wave-reflection; wave-groups
ID: solitary-waves
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2296158

                                                                    279 of 380
TI: Storm wave induced mortality of giant kelp, Macrocystis pyrifera , in southern California.
AU: Seymour,-R.J.; Tegner,-M.J.; Dayton,-P.K.; Parnell,-P.E.
AF: Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., Univ. California at San Diego, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
SO: ESTUAR.-COAST.-SHELF-SCI. 1989. vol. 28, no. 6, pp. 277-292
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The storm-related mortality rates of adult Macrocystis pyrifera  in a Southern California giant kelp forest were determined over several winter storm seasons and compared with the hydrodynamic attributes of the most energetic storms. The data include stormy and relatively benign years and an exceptional storm which resulted in almost total destruction of a major Macrocystis  forest. High orbital velocities (associated with large, high frequency waves), the presence of breaking waves, and entanglement by drifters were found to increase mortality through stipe breakage or holdfast failure. Longshore variability in wave intensity was found to affect kelp mortality rates. The data suggest that wave breaking may be an important factor in determining the inner boundary of the kelp bed.
DE: storms-; wave-effects; kelps-; seaweeds-; holdfasts-; USA,-California; waves-; Macrocystis-pyrifera; breaking-waves; winter-; limiting-factors; boundaries-; INE,-USA,-California; biological-damage
ID: mortality-
CL: Aquatic-Communities:-Benthos-1462; Aquatic-Communities:-Habitat-community-studies-1463; Autecology:-Environmental-effects-1422; Botany:-General-1221; Environmental-Changes,-Conservation,-Public-Health:-Mechanical-and-natural-changes-1521
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); ASFA-3:-Aquatic-Pollution-and-Environmental-Quality (Q5)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 2292716

                                                                    280 of 380
TI: The influence of wave breaking on the surface pressure distribution in wind-wave interactions.
AU: Banner,-M.L.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. New South Wales, P.O. Box 1, Kensington, N.S.W. 2033, Australia
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1990. vol. 211, pp. 463-495
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Two complementary experimental configurations were used to focus on the details and consequences of the pressure distribution over breaking waves under wind forcing. For these propagating steep-wave experiments, the pressure phase shifts and distributions closely paralleled the stationary configuration findings. Moreover, a large increase (typically 100%) in the total windstress was observed for the breaking waves, with the increase corresponding closely to the comparably enhanced form drag associated with the actively breaking waves.
DE: wind-wave-interaction; wave-breaking; ocean-atmosphere-system; air-sea-interaction; atmospheric-pressure; wind-stress; numerical-analysis
ID: dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2288246

                                                                    281 of 380
TI: Attenuation and dispersion of sound in bubbly fluids via the Kramers-Kronig relations.
AU: Temkin,-S.
AF: Dep. Mech. and Aerosp. Eng., Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, NJ 08855-0909, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1990. vol. 211, pp. 61-72
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Sound propagation in a dilute bubble-liquid mixture is studied by means of the Kramers-Kronig relationships, which relate the real and imaginary parts of the general susceptibility of a linear medium. These relationships are adopted for the case of acoustic waves, where they become coupled integral equations. A simple but approximate procedure is used to obtain from these equations the phase speed of sound waves for the case when the attenuation coefficient is independently known. The procedure is applied to fluids containing radially pulsating bubbles.
DE: breaking-waves; sound-propagation; sound-attenuation; bubbles-; sound-waves; sound-velocity; numerical-analysis
ID: acoustic-properties; Kramers-Kronig-relations
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Propagation-of-sound-2203
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2288169

                                                                    282 of 380
TI: Geometric properties of deep-water breaking waves.
AU: Bonmarin,-P.
AF: Inst. Mec. Stat. Turbul., Unite Mixte Univ., CNRS, No. 380033, 12 Ave. General Leclerc, 13003 Marseille, France
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1989. vol. 209, pp. 405-433
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The time-space evolution of a steep water wave reaching the breaking stage is observed by means of a visualization technique. In particular, the asymmetry of the wave profile in the near-breaking region is displayed. Measurements at breaking onset on a sample of breaking waves show a relation between the rate of asymmetry growth and the breaker type. The shape evolution of a plunging crest after breaking has started, and the related splash-up phenomenon and its part in the air-entrainment process are also observed.
DE: fluid-dynamics; water-wave-motion; breaking-waves; wave-breaking; deep-water; numerical-analysis
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2288108

                                                                    283 of 380
TI: Parametrically excited standing edge waves.
AU: Miles,-J.
AF: Inst. Geophys. and Planet. Phys., Univ. California at San Diego, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1990. vol. 214, pp. 43-57
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The resonant excitation of weakly nonlinear, standing edge waves of frequency  omega  and longshore wavenumber k by a normally incident, non-breaking gravity wave of frequency 2 omega  and shoreline amplitude a on a bottom that descends smoothly from a shoreline depth of zero and slop  sigma  to an offshore depth h sub( infinity ) is calculated. It is shown that the solution for prescribed initial conditions must tend to one of the stable fixed points, which correspond to an edge-wave amplitude of either zero or O(( sigma a/k) super(1/2)), depending on whether the damping exceeds or is inferior to a certain critical value.
DE: water-wave-motion; edge-waves; standing-waves; resonant-wave-interaction; gravity-waves; numerical-analysis
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2282026

                                                                    284 of 380
TI: The geometry of turbulent patches from a numerical simulation of internal wave critical layer events.
AU: DeWitt,-R.J.; Henyey,-F.S.; Wright,-J.A.
AF: Cent. Stud. Nonlinear Dyn., La Jolla Inst., La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1990. vol. 95, no. C6, pp. 9731-9737
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The development of turbulent patches in the ocean is due to internal wave breaking at critical layers. The wave packets are found to break in long, thin horizontal layers that resemble the turbulent patches seen in experimental records. The simulation suggests that patches with thicknesses much greater than 2.5 m should be quite rare events. The statistically computed tilt of the patches from the horizontal computed from the simulation is 0.014, which is in agreement with typical aspect ratios for the background internal waves. The patches created by internal wave breaking are not created as thick patches that then collapse by some mechanism into long, thin pancake shapes, but instead are created in their observed form by the very nature of the critical layer events.
DE: internal-waves; wave-breaking; numerical-analysis; simulation-
ID: turbulence-; turbulent-patches
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2281798

                                                                    285 of 380
TI: A probability distribution of breaking wave crest height based on a crest-acceleration threshold method.
AU: Greenhow,-M.
AF: Dep. Math. and Stat., Brunel Univ., Uxbridge, Middlesex UB8 3PH, UK
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1989. vol. 16, no. 5-6, pp. 537-544
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: For designers of offshore structures, the probability of a breaking wave crest at or above a specified level above the mean may be an important question. Such a probability may be stated explicitly by assuming that a breaking wave has a downward crest acceleration magnitude exceeding a certain threshold  alpha g. The resulting simple expression contains the fourth moment, m sub(4), which depends critically upon the high-frequency components of the wave spectrum. By comparing oceanographic data from a buoy and photographs from the same area and time with the theory of Snyder and Kennedy for total whitecap coverage, an empirical relation between m sub(4) and the significant wave parameters H sub(S) and T sub(S) is suggested. This enables m sub(4) to be estimated for each sea-state in an H sub(S)-T sub(S) scatter diagram, and consequently the number of breaking wave crests above any specified value is easily calculated. Results are very dependent upon the higher sea-states.
DE: offshore-structures; offshore-engineering; wave-forces; dynamic-loads; wave-crests; mathematical-models; sea-state; probability-theory; scatter-diagrams
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2267148

                                                                    286 of 380
TI: Nearshore bars and the break-point hypothesis.
AU: Sallenger,-A.H.,Jr.; Howd,-P.A.
AF: Cent. Coast. Geol. and Reg. Stud., USGS, St. Petersburg, FL 33701, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1989. vol. 12, no. 4, pp. 301-313
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The set of hypotheses calling for bar formation at the break point was tested with field data. During two different experiments waves were measured across the surf zone coincident with the development of a nearshore bar. The authors use a criterion, based on the wave height to depth ratio, to determine the offshore limit of the inner surf zone. During the first experiment, the bar became better developed and migrated offshore while remaining well within the inner surf zone. During the second experiment, the surf zone was narrower and one cannot rule out the possibility of break point processes contributing to bar development. It is concluded that bars are not necessarily coupled with the break point and can become better developed and migrate offshore while being in the inner surf zone landward from initial wave breaking in the outer surf zone.
DE: breaking-waves; break-point-bars; models-; surf-zone; sediment-transport; coastal-morphology
ID: nearshore-bars
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2266305

                                                                    287 of 380
TI: Fine-scale measurements of the vertical ambient noise field.
AU: Sotirin,-B.J.; Hodgkiss,-W.S.
AF: Code 541B, Nav. Ocean Syst. Cent., San Diego, CA 92152-5000, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1990. vol. 87, no. 5, pp. 2052-2063
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The fine-scale structure of the directional ambient noise field is investigated utilizing a large-aperture (900-m) vertical array. Frequency and directional spectral estimates are calculated during the passage of a local storm, providing a detailed study of the ambient noise field temporal and spatial characteristics at low frequencies (15-130 Hz) as wind speed increases from 2 to 12 m/s over a 21-h period. Spectral levels of horizontal beams reflect the variability of discrete distant sources. Spectral levels of beams directed toward the surface and the bottom display a threshold-type behavior, suggesting the abrupt onset of a source mechanism such as breaking waves.
DE: underwater-noise; acoustics-; storms-; spatial-variations; temporal-variations; wind-speed
ID: ambient-noise; noise-field-measurement
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2263931

                                                                    288 of 380
TI: Ambient and transient bubble spectral densities in quiescent seas and under spilling breakers.
AU: Medwin,-H.; Breitz,-N.D.
AF: Phys. Dep., Nav. Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA 93943, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1989. vol. 94, no. C9, pp. 12751-759
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A calibrated, floating, multi-frequency, acoustical resonator has been used to obtain the bubble spectrum for 9 radii from 30 to 240 microns, 25 cm under breaking waves in the open sea off the coast of California. At this depth, bubbles larger than 60 microns have a radius dependence approximately a super(-2.5) and smaller bubble densities vary approximately as a super(-4). Our densities are in good agreement with recently published laboratory studies of bubbles, using laser scattering under wind-blown surfaces with about the same surface frictional velocity U super(*). Past inconsistencies between acoustical results and optical results were apparently due to an inability of some optical techniques to identify small bubbles in the difficult ocean environment.
DE: bubbles-; breaking-waves; sound-spectra; acoustic-properties; size-distribution; INE,-USA,-California
ID: dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 2261360

                                                                    289 of 380
TI: Two-dimensional instability of finite amplitude internal gravity wave packets near a critical level.
AU: Winters,-K.B.; D'-Asaro,-E.A.
AF: Dep. Appl. Math., Univ. Washington, Seattle, WA 98195, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1989. vol. 94, no. C9, pp. 12709-719
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A high-resolution two-dimensional numerical model is used to simulate the propagation of finite amplitude internal wave packets into a mean shear flow that varies slowly in space. For moderate packet amplitudes the interaction is well described by weakly nonlinear asymptotic theory. At higher amplitude, however, a region develops near the critical level in which nonlinearity dominates, the wave packet becomes unstable, and the wavelike motion breaks down into smaller scales. The form of the observed internal wave breakdown is unexpected in that convectively unstable density gradients persist for many buoyancy periods. The eventual rapid transition, from large-amplitude wavelike motion to a more complicated flow, is triggered by an instability driven by the intensified wave shear and not by a convective breakdown of the unstable stratification.
DE: internal-wave-breaking; instability-; shear-flow; gravity-waves; mathematical-models
ID: fluid-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2261208

                                                                    290 of 380
TI: Spectral spreading from surface bubble motion.
AU: McCammon,-D.F.; McDaniel,-S.T.
AF: Appl. Res. Lab., Pennsylvania State Univ., University Park, PA 16802, USA
SO: IEEE-J.-OCEAN.-ENG. 1990. vol. 15, no. 2, pp. 95-100
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: At low frequencies, surface bubbles contribute to acoustic backscattering in aggregate, and the motion of these bubble masses causes spectral spreading of the acoustic signals. This motion of the bubbles entrained in the surface waves is used to obtain the power spectrum of a low-frequency surface-scattered signal at a low grazing angle. A spectral distribution of the deterministic surface drift, augmented by breaking wave crests, is developed for the wave frequency components that are actively breaking. This motion is combined with the random motion in a wave cycle to predict the spectral widths of low-angle backscattered sound. To permit comparisons with measured data, convolutions of these spectra with simple square pulses of various durations are performed.
DE: air-water-interface; sound-scattering; backscatter-; bubbles-; sound-spectra; spectral-analysis
ID: acoustic-properties
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2261068

                                                                    291 of 380
TI: Shallow water application of the third-generation WAM wave model.
AU: Cavaleri,-L.; Bertotti,-L.; Lionello,-P.
AF: Ist. Stud. Din. Grandi Masse, Cons. Naz. Ric., Venice, Italy
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1989. vol. 94, no. C6, pp. 8111-8124
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: We present the results of detailed tests of the third-generation WAM wave model. The tests are carried out under well-known conditions, and they are chosen so as to check different aspects of the model. The test area is the Adriatic Sea, east of Italy, which is very shallow in its northern part. As expected from the basic physical approach of WAM to the problem, the results show the model's capability of responding equally well to different meteorological situations. Some discrepancies present at short nondimensional fetch and in shallow water are addressed with different formulations for breaking and bottom friction.
DE: air-sea-coupling; wind-wave-generation; shallow-water-waves; wave-breaking; bottom-friction; MED,-Adriatic; mathematical-models
ID: ocean-atmosphere-system
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 2255141

                                                                    292 of 380
TI: Wave transformation over coral reefs.
AU: Young,-L.R.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Australian Def. Force Acad., Canberra, A.C.T., Australia
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1989. vol. 94, no. C7, pp. 9779-9789
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Ocean wave attenuation on coral reefs is discussed using data obtained from a preliminary field experiment and from the Seasat altimeter. Marked attenuation of the waves is observed, the rate being consistent with existing theories of bottom friction and wave breaking decay. In addition, there is a significant broadening of the spectrum during propagation across reefs. Three-dimensional effects, such as refraction and defraction, can also lead to substantial wave height reduction for significant distances adjacent to coral reefs. As a result, a matrix of such reefs provides significantly more wave attenuation than may initially be expected.
DE: ISEW,-Great-Barrier-Reef,-Yonge-Reef; water-wave-motion; wave-attenuation; bottom-topography-effects; coral-reefs; satellite-altimetry; SEASAT-
ID: coastal-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 2255059

                                                                    293 of 380
TI: On the determination of breaking surface wave distributions using ambient sound.
AU: Farmer,-D.M.; Vagle,-S.
AF: Inst. Ocean Sci., Sidney, B.C., Canada
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1988. vol. 93, no. C4, pp. 3591-3600
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: When surface gravity waves break, they generate an acoustic signal which can be used to derive information about their properties and distribution. Observations of sound formed in this way have been obtained at 1, 10, and 40 m below the surface in the fetch limited environment of Georgia Strait, British Columbia. Interpretation of the results is aided by a model of randomly distributed sound sources on the ocean surface. It is shown that the signal variability is governed by the number density, or mean spacing of the breakers, by the tendency for breakers to repeat at half the wave frequency, and by the group structure of the wave field. Calculated wave field properties reveal several features which can be related to changes in the wind, including variations in wave period, mean breaker spacing, and the average acoustic strength of individual breakers.
DE: breaking-waves; surface-water-waves; ambient-noise; air-sea-interaction; wind-wave-interaction; INE,-Georgia-Strait
ID: acoustic-models
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Methods-and-instruments-2202
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 2245915

                                                                    294 of 380
TI: Effect of small-wavelength waves on gas transfer across the ocean surface.
AU: Back,-D.D.; McCready,-M.J.
AF: Dep. Chem. Eng., Univ. Notre Dame, Notre Dame, ID 46556, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1988. vol. 93, no. C5, pp. 5143-5152
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Transfer of slightly soluble gases across the air-sea interface under conditions where no significant wave breaking is occurring is considered. The flow field near the interface is described by an Orr-Sommerfeld equation with the key boundary condition being the variation in interfacial stress caused by a turbulent wind flow over small-wavelength waves. Spectra for normal velocity fluctuations are calculated from measured wave amplitude spectra, and it is shown that very strong flows, which are in the close proximity of the interface and should be effective at enhancing mass transfer, occur and that only small-wavelength waves (less than about 4 cm) contribute.
DE: gas-exchange; air-water-exchanges; short-crested-waves; wind-wave-interaction; wave-spectra; numerical-analysis
ID: air-sea-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2245820

                                                                    295 of 380
TI: A shallow water spectral wave model.
AU: Young,-I.R.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Australian Def. Force Acad., Canberra, A.C.T., Australia
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1988. vol. 93, no. C5, pp. 5113-5129
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A shallow water spectral wave prediction model based on a numerical solution of the radiative transfer equation is presented. The model is second generation and uses a simple yet effective representation for the nonlinear source term. In addition, the model pays particular attention to the shallow water processes of refraction, shoaling, bottom friction, and wave breaking. The flexibility of the model is demonstrated by an intercomparison with field data from a number of tropical cyclones. The turning winds from such storms provide a demanding test of model physics. The comparisons are in both deep and shallow water.
DE: wave-predicting; wave-spectra; spectral-analysis; shallow-water; wave-refraction; shoaling-waves; wave-breaking; bottom-friction; mathematical-models
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2245734

                                                                    296 of 380
TI: Effect of breaking waves on the directional spectrum of waves in water of variable depth in the presence of current.
AU: Tung,-C.C.; Cho,-Y.J.
CA: North Carolina State Univ., Raleigh (USA). Dep. of Civil Engineering
SO: MISC.-PAP.-U.S.-ARMY-COAST.-ENG.-RES.-CENT. 1989. 45 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A210 671/4/GAR.
RN: CERC-MP-89-7 (CERCMP897)
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: This report details an approximate method for calculating the directional spectrum of waves encountering a current in shallow water. The wave trains in the directional spectrum are assumed to be linear and Gaussian; development of the spectrum requires that the waves also be short crested. The bathymetry is assumed to consist of straight parallel contours. The Miche breaking criterion is imposed to determine the upper limit of wave height and to establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the ideal wave's elevation and the second time derivative of elevation. Snell's Law is used for wave refraction. Two examples are given: one for a Wallops directional spectrum encountering a shear current, and one with an upwelling current. Results are presented in graphical form.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-propagation; water-waves; mathematical-models; beach-slope; shear-wave-velocities; upwelling-
ID: wave-predicting
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2245675

                                                                    297 of 380
TI: Wave setup: A field study.
AU: Nielsen,-P.
AF: Coast and Rivers Branch, Pub. Works Dep., Sydney, N.S.W., Australia
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1988. vol. 93, no. C12, pp. 15643-652
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new and efficient method is described for obtaining field measurements of surf zone mean water levels. The method applies manometer tubes rather than the traditional pressure transducers, and hence makes it unnecessary to survey the vertical positions of the "sensors". It is shown that while traditional setup models work reasonably well seaward of the still water line the most landward part of the mean water surface (on fairly steep beaches at least) requires radically different models. It is still possible, however, to obtain reasonable estimates of the shoreline setup by tying together the concepts of setup and runup and utilizing presently available empirical formulae for the maximum runup level.
DE: wave-dynamics; breaking-waves; surf-zone; wave-setup; wave-measurement; methodology-
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2245667

                                                                    298 of 380
TI: Eulerian measurements of horizontal accelerations in shoaling gravity waves.
AU: Elgar,-S.; Guza,-R.t.; Freilich,-M.H.
AF: Electr. and Comp. Eng., Washington State Univ., Pullman, WA 99163, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1988. vol. 93, no. C8, pp. 9261-9269
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Laboratory and field measurements of suspended sediment in the nearshore suggest that fluid accelerations are an important factor in sediment transport by oscillatory waves. Here, Eulerian accelerations of the cross-shore velocity are calculated from measurements of velocity obtained by an array of bottom-mounted electromagnetic flow meters spanning a natural surf zone. Large shoreward accelerations of brief duration are associated with the steep front faces of both near-breaking and breaking waves. Weaker offshore accelerations of longer duration occur during passage of the more gently sloped rear faces. The acceleration field is thus strongly skewed in the shoreward direction. Power spectra and bispectra indicate, as expected, that statistics of the acceleration field are significantly influenced by high-frequency motions but are rather insensitive to surf beat.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; shoaling-waves; gravity-waves; surf-zone; Eulerian-current-measurement; acceleration-; breaking-waves; oscillatory-waves
ID: nearshore-sedimentation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2239698

                                                                    299 of 380
TI: Bubbles in the close vicinity of breaking waves: Statistical characteristics of the generation and dispersion mechanism.
AU: Baldy,-S.
AF: Inst. Mec. Stat. Turbul., Marseille, France
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1988. vol. 93, no. C7, pp. 8239-8248
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A direct investigation focussed on the vicinity of the interface of bubble populations generated by different breaking wave fields in a wind-water simulation facility is presented. Distributions of time intervals between bubble arrivals in the sampling volume and bubble speed estimations obtained from bubble time of residence in this volume suggest bubble clusters in the upper zone that fade out in the lower zone. In addition, bubble concentration is found to increase very rapidly at a given depth with wind speed and more rapidly for large bubbles than for small ones. Bubble cluster, speed, and size distribution variations with depth furnish evidence for the identification of the upper zone with a generation zone and the lower with a dispersion zone.
DE: air-water-interface; breaking-waves; wind-wave-interaction; vertical-distribution; statistical-analysis
ID: bubbles-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2239688

                                                                    300 of 380
TI: The interaction between the undertow and the boundary layer flow on a beach.
AU: Svendsen,-I.A.; Schaeffer,-H.A.; Hansen,-J.B.
AF: Inst. Hydrodyn. and Hydraul. Eng., Tech. Univ. Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1987. vol. 92, no. C11, pp. 11845-1856
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The theoretical result for undertow in a surf zone found by Svendsen (1984a) is combined with a boundary layer solution at the bottom, and it is shown that in this boundary layer the eddy viscosity is small relative to that produced by the breaking. The proper eddy viscosity  upsilon  sub(t) between the surface and the bottom boundary layer is determined by comparison with measurements, which leads to quite accurate reproduction of the velocity profiles. The model also predicts the mean flow in the boundary layer and the mean bottom shear stress, and the results are analyzed for sensitivity to inaccuracies in the basic assumptions.
DE: surf-zone; benthic-boundary-layer; breaking-waves; undertow-; bottom-stress; eddy-viscosity; numerical-analysis
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Benthic-boundary-layer-2165; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2215253

                                                                    301 of 380
TI: Photographic measurements of bubble populations from breaking wind waves at sea.
AU: Walsh,-A.L.; Mulhearn,-P.J.
AF: Dep. Geogr. and Oceanogr., Australian Def. Force Acad., Campbell, A.C.T., Australia
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1987. vol. 92, no. C13, pp. 14553-565
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A photographic technique was used to measure bubble size spectra at depths of 0.5-2.0 m in wind speeds of 2-14 m/s. Sampled bubble populations were found to be highly variable with time. The bubble density was found to be a strong function of wind speed. The state of development of the wave height spectrum also appeared to influence the bubble density. Bubble size spectra varied with radius, r, on average, as r super(-4). The more limited oceanic results of previous workers are compatible with these findings.
DE: bubbles-; surface-water; wind-speed; photography-
ID: air-sea-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2215193

                                                                    302 of 380
TI: Bar-generating gross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach.
AU: Roelvink,-J.A.; Stive,-M.J.F.
AF: Delft Hydraul., Emmeloord, Netherlands
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1989. vol. 94, no. C4, pp. 4785-4800
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Random waves normally incident on a dissipative beach induce a variety of cross-shore flows, such as asymmetric oscillatory flow, wave grouping-induced long-wave flow, breaking-induced turbulent flow, and momentum decay-induced undertow. These flows are identified, analyzed and hindcasted in a set of laboratory experiments with the aim of revealing the role of each of the flow mechanisms in the two-dimensional case of bar generation on a beach.
DE: waves-on-beaches; wave-hindcasting; sediment-transport; oscillatory-flow; turbulent-flow; undertow-; wave-groups
ID: longshore-bars; wave-dissipation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2215151

                                                                    303 of 380
TI: Statistics of breaking waves and its application to upper ocean dynamics.
AU: Yuan,-Ye-Li; Hua,-Feng; Pan,-Zeng-Di; Huang,-N.E.; Tung,-Chi-Chao
AF: First Inst. Oceanogr., SOA, Qingdao 266003, People's Rep. China
SO: SCI.-SIN. 1990. vol. 33, no. 1, pp. 98-110
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Based on the improved statistics model of breaking waves, we have calculated the following statistical quantities: S sub(t), breaking area ratio generated per unit time; V sub(t), the volume of water mass thrown out from the wave surface due to breaking on a unit area per unit time;  epsilon  sub(t), the breaking energy loss rate on a unit area per unit time. Under the high sea state, the phase change governed by wave breaking is mechanistic. Based on the physical and dimensional consideration we have also derived the statistical quantities of upper ocean dynamics such as whitecap coverage, exchange fluxes in the high sea state and turbulence degree in the subsurface layer. The theoretical results are consistent with the existing experimental data.
DE: breaking-waves; surface-water-waves; upper-ocean; whitecapping-; energy-dissipation; turbulence-
ID: hydrodynamics-; statistical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2211572

                                                                    304 of 380
TI: Marine condensation nucleus generation inferred from whitecap simulation tank results.
AU: Cipriano,-R.J.; Monahan,-E.C.; Bowyer,-P.A.; Woolf,-D.K.
AF: Atmos. Sci. Res. Cent., State Univ. New York, Albany, NY 12203, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1987. vol. 92, no. C6, pp. 6569-6576
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The condensation nuclei (CN) produced during a set of experiments in the Whitecap Simulation Tank at University College, Galway, were measured with a TSI 3020 nucleus counter. The total number of CN produced per breaking wave event was 3.5  plus or minus  0.5 x 10 super(7) for a seawater temperature near 15 degree C. The CN production per unit area of whitecap (10 super(8) m super(-2)) and the previously observed whitecap time decay constant of  similar to 3.5 s implies a whitecap CN flux F sub(w) of  similar to 2.8  plus or minus  0.9 x 10 super(7) m super(-2)/s. Most of the CN produced by this whitecap simulation are of submicron size and this was also the case in the model breaking wave experiments of R. J. Cipriano et al. (1983). Both laboratory whitecap simulations suggest that the ocean contributes significantly to the CN and cloud condensation nuclei populations of the marine atmospheric boundary layer far from land.
DE: air-sea-interaction; aerosols-; whitecapping-; wave-tanks; simulation-; models-; breaking-waves; wave-dynamics; atmospheric-chemistry
ID: ocean-atmosphere-system
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2189610

                                                                    305 of 380
TI: On the spatial distribution of ocean bubbles.
AU: Crawford,-G.B.; Farmer,-D.M.
AF: Inst. Ocean Sci., Sidney, B.C. V8L 4B2, Canada
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1987. vol. 92, no. C8, pp. 8231-8243
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Clouds of bubbles generated by breaking waves were detected with a vertically directed high-frequency echo sounder mounted on a submarine. Bubble concentration was inferred from a simple model of the bubble size distribution. The vertical and horizontal distribution of clouds is discussed in terms of wave-breaking processes, air-sea temperature differences, and subsurface motions which are though to modulate the bubble concentration. The observations provide only weak evidence to support relationships between plume spacing and surface wave-breaking events and between plume spacing and the expected scale of Langmuir circulation.
DE: air-sea-interaction; breaking-waves; bubbles-; echo-surveys; vertical-distribution; horizontal-distribution; INE,-USA,-California,-Monterey
ID: physical-oceanography
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Physics-and-chemistry-2183
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 2189339

                                                                    306 of 380
TI: Changes with desiccation of the mechanical properties of the intertidal macroalga Tridaea flaccida .
AU: Kraemer,-G.P.
AF: Dep. Biol., Univ. California, Los Angeles, CA 90024, USA
CO: Annu. Meeting of the Phycological Society of America, Pacific Grove, CA (USA), 24-29 Jul 1988
SO: J.-PHYCOL. 1988. vol. 24, no. suppl., p. 14
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1988
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Many abiotic factors have been proposed to place the upper limits on intertidal macroalgal distributions. One factor that has not been considered is the change with desiccation of the tissue mechanical properties. Samples of Tridaea flaccida  (Rhodophyta) tissue were air-dried for varying periods and were subjected to tensile analysis for elastic modulus, breaking stress, and work of fracture values. Consequences of the changes in tissue properties are discussed in terms of surviving the first waves of the incoming tide.
DE: intertidal-environment; desiccation-; elasticity-; tensile-strength; breaking-waves; Tridaea-flaccida; ecological-zonation; ecophysiology-; abiotic-factors
ID: ecological-distribution; microalgae-
CL: Autecology:-Environmental-effects-1422; Botany:-Physiology,-biochemistry,-biophysics-1226
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 2161680

                                                                    307 of 380
TI: Waveguide propagation of ambient sound in the ocean-surface bubble layer.
AU: Farmer,-D.M.; Vagle,-S.
AF: Inst. Ocean Sci., P.O. Box 6000, Sidney, B.C. V8L 4B2, Canada
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1989. vol. 86, no. 5, pp. 1897-1908
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements of the ambient sound generated by breaking waves over the range 40-20,000 Hz reveal well-defined spectral peaks, the frequency of which may remain generally consistent from one breaking event to the next, but which can change significantly over the course of a storm, or from one storm to another. A theory is proposed, based on the concept of trapping of a portion of the sound in the waveguide formed by the ocean-surface bubble layer. Simultaneous measurements of the bubble population and size distribution as a function of depth and time were obtained with a multifrequency inverted echo sounder, allowing calculation of the resulting (dispersive) sound-speed anomaly profile.
DE: air-water-interface; ambient-noise; sound-propagation; surface-water; bubbles-
ID: acoustic-properties
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Methods-and-instruments-2202; Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2154460

                                                                    308 of 380
TI: An efficient Boundary Element Method for nonlinear water waves.
AU: Grilli,-S.T.; Skourup,-J.; Svendsen,-I.A.
AF: Ocean Eng. Prog., Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Delaware, Newark, DE 19716, USA
SO: ENG.-ANAL.-BOUNDARY-ELEMENTS. 1989. vol. 6, no. 2, pp. 97-107
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The paper presents a computational model for highly nonlinear 2-D water waves in which a high order Boundary Element Method is coupled with a high order explicit time stepping technique for the temporal evolution of the waves. The choice of the numerical procedures is justified from a review of the literature. Problems of the wave generation and absorption are investigated. The present method operates in the physical space and applications to four different wave problems are presented and discussed (space periodic wave propagation and breaking, solitary wave propagation, run-up and radiation, transient wave generation). Emphasis in the paper is given to describing the numerical methods used in the computation.
DE: nonlinear-wave-interactions; wave-generation; boundary-value-problems; solitary-waves; breaking-waves; wave-propagation; wave-runup; mathematical-models; wave-dynamics
ID: water-wave-motion
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2133336

                                                                    309 of 380
TI: Instrumentation for in situ acoustical measurements of bubble spectra under breaking waves.
AU: Breitz,-N.; Medwin,-H.
AF: Wilson, Ihrig and Assoc., Inc., 5776 Broadway, Oakland, CA 94618, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1989. vol. 86, no. 2, pp. 739-743
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A floating acoustical resonator has been developed to determine numbers and sizes of bubbles in the region of spilling breakers in the open sea. The change of Q of several modes of the one-dimensional resonator has been used to infer, simultaneously, bubble populations of nine radii between 30 and 270  mu m; smaller radii bubbles can also be studied. To demonstrate the accuracy of the technique, theoretical predictions of resonance broadening due to bubbles were compared with measured broadening for a know bubble population in the laboratory. Statistics of bubble densities under and near spilling breakers were then obtained at a depth of 25 cm below the ocean surface.
DE: resonance-; breaking-waves; bubbles-; sound-spectra; spectral-analysis; measuring-devices
ID: acoustic-equipment; acoustical-resonator
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Methods-and-instruments-2202
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2121199

                                                                    310 of 380
TI: A discussion on currents and suspended load transport in surf zone.
AU: Zhou,-Jiabao
AF: Nanjing Hydraul. Res. Inst., Nanjing, People's Rep. China
SO: CHINA-OCEAN-ENG. 1989. vol. 3, no. 2, pp. 195-202
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this paper, the distribution characteristics of the breaking wave current and suspended load transport in the surf zone are discussed in main. Based on the measured data of the waves, the form of breaking wave, the breaking wave current and the sediment concentration of suspended load in the offshore surf zone near Nouakchott, the Islamic Republic of Mauritania, the author has analyzed the law governing the distribution of longshore current and sediment concentration of suspended load by means of statistical method, and presented a calculation method for the longshore sediment transport in offshore surf zone.
DE: current-data; suspended-load; sediment-transport; surf-zone; ASE,-Mauritania,-Nouakchott
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Southeast (ASE)
AN: 2112140

                                                                    311 of 380
TI: The acoustic field of an oscillating bubble near a free surface.
AU: Pumphrey,-H.C.; Crum,-L.A.
AF: Natl. Cent. Phys. Acoust., P.O. Box 847, University, MS 38677, USA
CO: 2. Joint Meet. of the Acoustical Society of America and the Acoustical Society of Japan; 116. Meet. of the Acoustical Society of America, Honolulu, HI (USA), 14-18 Nov 1988
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM.-SUPPL.. 1988. vol. 84, no. suppl. 1, pp. P. S202
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1988
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Bubbles may be entrained into the ocean by a variety of natural processes such as rainfall and breaking waves. The bubble is simple source within a small fraction of a wavelength of a free surface and should therefore have a dipole radiation pattern. Measurements of the field were made; these show that the radiation pattern is as predicted and allow calculation of the amplitude of oscillation of the bubble. It is known from previous work that raindrops in a certain size range will entrain bubbles. Using the known source strength of a bubble, the spectrum level produced by a typical rain shower is calculated and compared with measurements made of real rain.
DE: ambient-noise; bubbles-; turbulent-entrainment; oscillations-; droplets-; underwater-noise; oceanic-province
ID: acoustics-
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Propagation-of-sound-2203
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2108285

                                                                    312 of 380
TI: Breaking waves and bubble clouds: Acoustic observations of the upper ocean boundary layer.
AU: Farmer,-D.M.; Vagle,-S.
AF: Inst. Ocean Sci., P.O. Box 6000, Sidney, B.C. V8L 4B2, Canada
CO: 2. Joint Meet. of the Acoustical Society of America and the Acoustical Society of Japan; 116. Meet. of the Acoustical Society of America, Honolulu, HI (USA), 14-18 Nov 1988
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM.-SUPPL.. 1988. vol. 84, no. suppl. 1, pp. S121-122
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1988
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: When surface waves break, they modify the acoustic environment of the upper ocean boundary layer in two important ways. The breaking events generate sound, and the injection of bubble clouds modifies the near-surface, sound-speed distribution. Individual breaking events contribute to a spatial and temporal pattern of sound in the ocean that can be used to infer their temporal and spatial distribution on the ocean surface. The bubble clouds are organized by the boundary layer turbulence. Reduced sound speed within the clouds can refract sound generated by the breaking events and even selectively trap it within the surface bubble layer. Observations of these processes will be described. The measurements were obtained with a novel free drifting instrument that employs both active and passive acoustic sensors.
DE: upper-ocean; breaking-waves; bubbles-; sound-scattering; noise-sound
ID: sound-attenuation; bubble-clouds
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2108147

                                                                    313 of 380
TI: Backscattering measurements in the presence of bubbles.
AU: Nuetzel,-B.; Herwig,-H.
AF: Forschungsanst. Bundeswehr Wasserschall- und Geophys., Klausdorfer Weg 2-24, 2300 Kiel 14, FRG
CO: 2. Joint Meet. of the Acoustical Society of America and the Acoustical Society of Japan; 116. Meet. of the Acoustical Society of America, Honolulu, HI (USA), 14-18 Nov 1988
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM.-SUPPL.. 1988. vol. 84, no. suppl. 1, p. S121
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1988
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The results from a recent acoustic scattering experiment, which was conducted in the North Sea, are presented with supporting environmental information. The acoustic data were obtained utilizing a high-resolution (narrow beamwidth) pulsed parametric sonar transmitter and conventional receiver. The results show that the contribution of bubble clouds to total back-scattering from the near-surface layer is negligible at normal incidence. However, bubbles can acoustically screen the surface so that back-scattered energy from the surface can no longer be used co compute backscattering strength because of increased attenuation within bubble clouds. At a grazing angle of 30 degree , the backscattered energy is significantly influenced by bubble clouds when breaking waves occur.
DE: backscatter-; bubbles-; sonar-arrays; near-surface-layer; sea-surface; breaking-waves; ANE,-North-Sea
ID: sound-scattering; bubble-clouds
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 2108134

                                                                    314 of 380
TI: The use of a drogue to prevent breaking wave capsize of sailing yachts.
AU: Hervey,-C.L.; Jordan,-D.J.
AF: U.S. Coast Guard R&D Cent., Avery Point, Groton, CT 06340-6096, USA
CA: Marine Technology Soc., Washington, DC (USA)
IEEE Ocean Engineering Soc., New York, NY (USA)
CO: Oceans '87: The Ocean -- an International Workplace, Halifax, N.S. (Canada), 28 Sep-1 Oct 1987
SO: PROCEEDINGS.-OCEANS-'-87.-THE-OCEAN-AN-INTERNATIONAL-WORKPLACE.-VOLUME-2.-MARINE-ENGINEERING;-POLICY,-EDUCATION-AND-TECHNOLOGY-TRANSFER. 1987. pp. 373-377
ST: OCEANS-'-87.
RN: IEEE-87CH2498-4 (IEEE87CH24984)
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking wave capsize is a major hazard to many oceangoing craft, but small yachts are especially vulnerable. A research program to reduce this hazard was started after the 1979 Fastnet disaster and has been carried on for the past 2 years by the U.S. Coast Guard Research and Development Center. The technique studied has been the use of a stern-deployed drogue with sufficient drag capability to pull the boat through a breaking wave. A computer model has been developed which simulates a boat/drogue system in a storm sea and during a breaking wave strike. These studies have led to the development of a series drogue.
DE: ship-design; capsizing-; yachts-; droughts-; ship-technology; sailing-ships; breaking-waves; USA-
ID: ship-stability; USCG-
CL: Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Surface-vehicles-2301
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2097400

                                                                    315 of 380
TI: Droplet size distribution of naturally dispersed oil.
AU: Delvigne,-G.A.L.
AF: Delft Hydraul. Lab., P.O. Box 177, 2600 MH Delft, Netherlands
CO: TNO Conf. on Oil Pollution, Amsterdam (Netherlands), 23-27 Feb 1987
SO: FATE-AND-EFFECTS-OF-OIL-IN-MARINE-ECOSYSTEMS.-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-CONFERENCE-ON-OIL-POLLUTION-ORGANIZED-UNDER-THE-AUSPICES-OF-THE-INTERNATIONAL-ASSOCIATION-ON-WATER-POLLUTION-RESEARCH-AND-CONTROL-IAWPRC-BY-THE-NETHERLANDS-ORGANIZATION-FOR-APPLIED-SCIENTIFIC-RESEARCH-TNO-AMSTERDAM,-THE-NETHERLANDS,-23-27-FEB-1987. Kuiper,-J.;Brink,-W.J.-van-den-eds. 1987. pp. 29-40
IS: ISBN 90-247-3489-4
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The mechanical action of breaking waves and turbulence cause oil to break up into small droplets and diffuse in the water column. The droplet size is important in view of the dispersion stability, the interaction with marine life, and the uptake by sediment. Laboratory measurements were performed on the droplet size distribution in various conditions. The droplet size distributions observed were strongly dependent on the turbulence energy level and on the duration of the turbulent state. Other distinct parameters were the oil type, weathering state and temperature, all being reflected in the single parameter of viscosity. The droplet size was independent of the salinity of the water, and the oil concentration. The droplet size distribution was similar for droplets generated from submerged oil lumps and those generated from a surface layer.
DE: oil-pollution; droplets-; pollution-dispersion; pollution-monitoring; wave-effects; pollutant-dispersion; waves-
ID: marine-pollution
CL: Pollution:-Characteristics,-behavior-and-fate-1503
JA: ASFA-3:-Aquatic-Pollution-and-Environmental-Quality (Q5)
AN: 2095012

                                                                    316 of 380
TI: The ejection of drops from the sea and their enrichment with bacteria and other materials: A review.
AU: Blanchard,-D.C.
AF: Atmos. Sci. Res. Cent., State Univ. New York, Albany, NY 12222, USA
SO: ESTUARIES. 1989. vol. 12, no. 3, pp. 127-137
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper is a review of work done on the production of an aerosol by the sea, and on the mechanisms by which bacteria might be enriched on the aerosol. Air bubbles produced in the sea, primarily by breaking waves, burst at the surface to eject both film and jet drops into the atmosphere. These drops are mixed upward by turbulence to produce the well-known marine sea-salt aerosol. In rising through the water, the bubbles may scavenge bacteria which, when the bubble bursts, are skimmed off the bubble and ejected upward with the jet drops. Depending on drop size, the distance the bubble moves through the water, and other factors, the concentration of bacteria in jet drops can be several hundred times that in the bulk water. Film drops can also be enriched with bacteria. The enrichment of jet and film drops with bacteria, viruses, or toxins may at times produce a health hazard for those living along the shore.
DE: marine-environment; coastal-waters; public-health; bubble-bursting; marine-microorganisms; reviews-; bacteria-; viruses-; literature-reviews
ID: aerosols-
CL: Microbiology:-General-1201; Environmental-Changes,-Conservation,-Public-Health:-Public-health,-medicines,-dangerous-organisms-1524; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Environmental-applications-impact-4480
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); ASFA-3:-Aquatic-Pollution-and-Environmental-Quality (Q5); ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); ASFA-Marine-Biotechnology-Abstracts (Q4)
AN: 2089189

                                                                    317 of 380
TI: Ocean and ship wave modification by a surface wake flow pattern.
AU: Griffin,-O.M.; Keramidas,-G.A.; Swean,-T.F.; Wang,-H.T.
CA: Naval Research Lab., Washington, DC (USA)
SO: MEMO.-REP.-U.S.-NAV.-RES.-LAB. 1988. 65 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A198 788/2/GAR.
RN: NRL-MR-6094 (NRLMR6094)
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Remote observations of a ship wake using synthetic aperture radar (SAR) show distinct features such as a dark trailing centerline region and bright-line images aligned at some angle to the ship's path. In this report the interactions ship generated Kelvin waves and ambient waves with the momentum wake of a surface vessel are studied to assess the effectiveness of the momentum wake in the generation of these remotely-observed features. Other factors such as the limiting wave steepness at the onset of wave breaking also are considered.
DE: ship-technology; Kelvin-waves; flow-around-objects; wave-interactions; surface-water-waves; hydrodynamics-; wakes-; numerical-analysis
ID: surface-craft
CL: Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Surface-vehicles-2301
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2076742

                                                                    318 of 380
TI: The effect of wave breaking on the wave energy spectrum.
AU: Tung,-C.C.; Huang,-N.E.
AF: North Carolina State Univ., Raleigh, NC 27695, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1987. vol. 17, no. 8, pp. 1156-1162
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The effect of wave breaking on the wave energy spectral shape is examined. The Stokes wave-breaking criterion is first extended to random waves and a breaking wave model is established in which the elevation of breaking waves is expressed in terms of that of the original ideal waves, which are assumed to be stationary and Gaussian. Based on this model, a simple but approximate expression for the spectrum of breaking waves is derived and applied to the case in which a deep water unidirectional wave train enters a region of adverse current steady in time and uniformly distributed in depth.
DE: physical-oceanography; wave-breaking; Stokes-waves; spectral-analysis; deep-water; wave-interactions; mathematical-models; water-wave-motion
ID: wave-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2075924

                                                                    319 of 380
TI: Observations of small-scale mixing processes in the seasonal thermocline. Part 2: Wave breaking.
AU: Marmorino,-G.O.
AF: Ocean Dyn. Branch, Acoust. Div., Nav. Res. Lab., Washington, DC 20375, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1987. vol. 17, no. 9, pp. 1348-1355
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Towed thermistor chain measurements are used to describe a large patch of ocean fine- and microstructure. In contrast to the relatively quiescent salt-fingering conditions of Part I, the 3-km long by 5-10-m high patch is in a frontal zone where background shear is enhanced by an inertial wave. It is conjectured that an embedded, coherent structure resembling a series of breaking waves is creating the smaller-scale activity. The waves have lengths of 30-50 m which are not incompatible with Kelvin-Helmholtz shear instabilities growing in an observed low-Richardson number layer.
DE: ASW,-Sargasso-Sea; seasonal-thermocline; frontal-features; Kelvin-Helmholtz-instability; Richardson-number; wave-breaking; water-mixing; physical-oceanography
ID: oceanic-fronts
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 2069031

                                                                    320 of 380
TI: The superharmonic instability of Stokes waves in deep water.
AU: Jillians,-W.J.
AF: Dep. Aerosp. Eng., Univ. Southern California, Los Angeles, CA 90089, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1989. vol. 204, pp. 563-579
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The method of Tanaka is used to solve the eigenvalue problem determining the form of the first superharmonic instability of periodic Stokes waves. Comparisons are made with other approaches to this problem and a discussion of the advantages of Tanaka's method is given. The accurately resolved eigenfunction solution is then taken as the initial state for commencing the computational time-stepping method of Dold & Peregrine, by which the authors investigate the full nonlinear development of the growing and decaying modes of this instability. It is observed that all unstable modes develop to breaking in the periodic regime and this result is compared and contrasted with the solitary wave case.
DE: harmonic-functions; eigenfunctions-; deep-water; Stokes-waves; instability-; mathematical-models
ID: dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2064256

                                                                    321 of 380
TI: Vertical mixing due to the breaking of critical internal waves on sloping boundaries.
AU: Ivey,-G.N.; Nokes,-R.I.
AF: Cent. Water Res., Univ. Western Australia, Nedlands, W.A. 6009, Australia
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1989. vol. 204, pp. 479-500
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A laboratory experiment is used to examine the vertical mixing resulting from the breaking of internal waves on a sloping boundary in a continuously stratified fluid. Attention is confined to the case of critical waves when the slope of the group velocity vector of the incident waves is equal to the bottom slope. By examining the increase in potential energy of the fluid as a result of sustained mixing, the authors are able to compute the transition value of the dissipation  epsilon  sub(tr) below which no mixing occurs. From comparisons with experiments with grid-generated turbulence, this suggests that while  epsilon  sub(tr)/ nu N super(2) = O(10) in the available data sets, the specific value of  epsilon  sub(tr) may be mechanism dependent.
DE: internal-wave-breaking; vertical-mixing; turbulence-; group-velocity; simulation-; numerical-analysis
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2064229

                                                                    322 of 380
TI: Structure of the turbulent flow field under breaking waves in the surf zone.
AU: Nadaoka,-K.; Hino,-M.; Koyano,-Y.
AF: Tokyo Inst. Technol., 2-12-1, O-Okayama, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 152, Japan
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1989. vol. 204, pp. 359-387
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The structure of turbulence and its role in the breaking wave dynamics within the surf zone have been investigated through laboratory experiments using several flow visualization techniques and a fibre-optic LDV system. The results indicate that there exists a characteristic structure of large-scale eddies referred to here as "horizontal eddies" and "obliquely descending eddies", which has a significant role in the generation of Reynolds stress and thus affects the deformation of the mean flow field. It is found that the generation of the mean rotational velocity component due to wave breaking causes considerable increase in mass and momentum transport, as compared with ordinary non-breaking waves, and thus a decrease in wave height.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; breaking-waves; surf-zone; turbulent-flow; vorticity-; simulation-; numerical-analysis
ID: pseudowaves-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2064219

                                                                    323 of 380
TI: The Froude number as a boundary condition for sediment transport in sand-bed streams.
AU: Combs,-S.T.
CA: Colorado State Univ., Fort Collins (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1989. vol. 49, no. 8, 204 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D.: Order No.: DA8821275.
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
AB: A computer model for simulating steep sand-bed streams was developed and documented. The model is based on the known discharge method with specific treatment of dynamically computed roughness coefficients, lateral suspended sediment diffusion, and distribution of gradation and degradation. Roughness coefficients are based on a hypothesis that for sand-bed streams flowing in upper regime (antidunes, standing waves, breaking antidunes, and chutes and pools) the Froude number is constant.
DE: sediment-dynamics; fluvial-transport; suspended-load; sand-; Froude-number; simulation-; mathematical-models; degradation-
ID: sediment-transport
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Methods-and-instruments-2262
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2050645

                                                                    324 of 380
TI: Breaking wave problems and probabilities.
AU: Yeh,-Rong-Chuen
CA: Oregon State Univ., Corvallis (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1989. vol. 49, no. 7, 142 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D.: Order No.: DA8811974.
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This thesis is focused on the characteristics of breaking waves in a deep water random sea state. The definition of a breaking wave is first summarized. A new definition is developed from the level of action, y sub(a), concept that was first presented by Longuet-Higgins. According to OSU laboratory experiments, the criterion y  greater than or equal to  0.71 y sub(a) can be used to describe a breaking wave. The characteristics of the wave spectrum that contain significant wave breaking and the influences of wave asymmetry on breaking waves are studied.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-dynamics; deep-water; spectral-analysis; probability-theory; Stokes-waves
ID: dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2041530

                                                                    325 of 380
TI: Observations of breaking waves on sloping bottoms by use of laser Doppler velocimetry.
AU: Skjelbreia,-J.E.
CA: California Inst. of Technology, Pasadena (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1987. 193 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D.: Order No.: DA8719705.
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave breaking is investigated experimentally by use of laser doppler velocimetry for two cases: a plunging breaker and a spilling breaker. Specifically, emphasis is given to the kinematics at breaking, the early breaking phase, and the turbulent wake generated from wave breaking. A significant contribution is provided on the amplitude behavior for a solitary wave on a beach. Four well defined regions of the shoaling-through-breaking solitary wave on a beach are identified and termed according to the wave amplitude behavior within each region. They are: the zone of gradual shoaling, the zone of rapid shoaling, the zone of rapid decay and the zone of gradual decay.
DE: breaking-waves; kinematics-; lasers-; simulation-; numerical-analysis
ID: nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2028006

                                                                    326 of 380
TI: A theory of breakers and breaking waves.
AU: Cointe,-R.
CA: California Univ., Santa Barbara (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1988. vol. 49, no. 4, 250 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D.: Order No.: DA8811824.
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A physical and mathematical model for steady spilling breakers is proposed. The steady breaker is modeled as an almost stagnant eddy riding on the front of an underlying gravity wave. The equilibrium of the breaker is the result of balance between the hydrostatic pressures due to the weight of the eddy and friction at the dividing streamline between the eddy and the underlying flow. This model for steady breakers is extended to include studies of breaker stability and natural modes and a nonlinear theory of non-steady breakers is developed.
DE: breakers-; breaking-waves; gravity-waves; nonlinear-waves; hydrodynamic-equations; mathematical-models
ID: hydrodynamics-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2027905

                                                                    327 of 380
TI: Non-symmetric gravity waves on water of infinite depth.
AU: Zufiria,-J.A.
AF: Appl. Math. Dep., California Inst. Technol., Pasadena, CA 91125, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1987. vol. 181, pp. 17-39
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Two different numerical methods are used to demonstrate the existence of and calculate non-symmetric gravity waves on deep water. It is found that they appear via spontaneous symmetry-breaking bifurcations from symmetric waves. The structure of the bifurcation tree is the same as the one found by Zufiria for waves on water of finite depth using a weakly nonlinear Hamiltonian model. One of the methods is based on the quadratic relations between the Stokes coefficients discovered by Longuet-Higgins. The other method is a new one based on the Hamiltonian structure of the water-wave problem.
DE: water-wave-motion; wave-generation; gravity-waves; deep-water; numerical-analysis; wave-interactions
ID: fluid-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2027388

                                                                    328 of 380
TI: Sound generation in the ocean by breaking surface waves.
AU: Guo,-Y.P.
AF: Dep. Eng., Univ. Cambridge, Trumpington St., Cambridge CB2 1PZ, UK
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1987. vol. 181, pp. 329-347
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Various flow processes resulting from the breaking of ocean surface waves are examined to determine their relative efficiencies as sources of sound. Momentum fluctuation arising from splashing water sprays is identified as the major contributor to the underwater sound. It is shown that the splashing is more efficient in radiating sound than other processes, such as unsteady foaming that entrains air bubbles into water, and turbulent motions in the surface layer associated with compressibility of the entrained bubbles. A model estimates the sound power radiated in terms of parameters of the wind and surface wave field. Comparison of theory with measurements is made and good agreement is discovered.
DE: surface-water-waves; breaking-waves; acoustic-models; air-water-interface
ID: sound-generation
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2027276

                                                                    329 of 380
TI: Breaking of wind-generated waves: Measurements and characteristics.
AU: Hwang,-P.A.; Xu,-Delun; Wu,-Jin
AF: Air-Sea Interaction Lab., Coll. Mar. Stud., Univ. Delaware, Lewes, DE 19958, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1989. vol. 202, pp. 177-200
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method of using local wave properties to provide a detailed description of breakings in a random wave field is developed. These properties, derived through the Hilbert transform, include the angular frequency, phase velocity, and surface-velocity components. The breaking characteristics are presented, including the probability of breaking, its time- and lengthscales, its intensity, and the phase of its inception. The time- and lengthscales of breaking events were found to be linearly proportional to the corresponding scales of underlying waves, and to indicate that the breaking region is geometrically similar.
DE: water-wave-motion; wave-breaking; statistical-analysis; surface-wave-internal-wave-interactions
ID: hydrodynamics-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2026961

                                                                    330 of 380
TI: Observations of breaking waves on sloping bottoms by use of laser Doppler velocimetry.
AU: Skjelbreia,-J.E.
AF: W. M. Keck Lab. Hydraul. and Water Resour., Div. Eng. and Appl. Sci., California Inst. Technol., Pasadena, CA 91125, USA
CA: California Inst. of Technology, Pasadena (USA). W.M. Keck Lab.
SO: REP.-CALIF.-INST.-TECHNOL.-W.M.-KECK-LAB.-HYDRAUL.-WATER-RESOUR. PASADENA,-CA-USA-CALIFORNIA-INST.-OF-TECHNOLOGY 1987. 176 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D. Civ. Eng.
RN: KH-R-48 (KHR48)
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave breaking is investigated experimentally by use of laser Doppler velocimetry for two cases: a plunging breaker and a spilling breaker. Specifically, emphasis is given to the kinematics at breaking, the early breaking phase, and the turbulent wake generated from wave breaking. A significant contribution is provided on the amplitude behavior for a solitary wave on a beach, as it is the solitary wave that is used to conduct this study. Associated with the use of the solitary wave, a technique of flow field construction by repeated measurement with an LDV is presented.
DE: hydrodynamics-; water-wave-motion; wave-breaking; turbulent-flow; wave-velocity; analytical-techniques
ID: wave-dynamics; laser-Doppler-velocimetry
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 2011115

                                                                    331 of 380
TI: Study of hydrodynamics and sedimentary processes in coastal wave-dominated environments.
OT: Etude hydrodynamique et sedimentaire des environnements littoraux domines par la houle
AU: Chapalain,-G.
CA: Grenoble 1 Univ. (France)
SO: GRENOBLE-FRANCE-UNIVERSITE-DE-GRENOBLE-1 1988. 318 pp
NT: Thesis (Mecanique).
PY: 1988
LA: French
LS: English; French
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The propagation of long surface gravity wave is studied experimentally, theoretically and numerically. The validity of a quasi-resonant two-harmonic model is confirmed. Hydro-sedimentary processes in the turbulent wave bottom boundary layer are studied using an uni-dimensional second-order closure model. A simplified first-order model has been used in the model describing the interactions between surface gravity waves trains and a sandy bottom. The proposed hydro-morphological model explains the formation of submarine sand bars parallel to the shoreline. This model is successfully tested against measurements made along the shore of Lake Huron and Gulf of St Lawrence. Modeling has been extended to multi-component sediment in order to simulate observed modulation of sediment distribution across barred profiles. Finally, we attempt to take account of wave dissipation by multiple-breaking over a system of longshore bars.
DE: surface-gravity-waves; turbulent-boundary-layer; sediment-transport; grain-size; shallow-water; modelling-; longshore-bars; breaking-waves
ID: hydrodynamics-
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1999949

                                                                    332 of 380
TI: Field investigation of suspended-sediment clouds under plunging breakers.
AU: Galloway,-J.S.
AF: Wimpol Ltd., Hargreaves Rd., Groundwell Ind. Estate, Swindon, Wiltshire SN2 5AZ, UK
SO: ESTUAR.-COAST.-SHELF-SCI. 1988. vol. 27, no. 2, pp. 119-130
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking waves nearshore force the suspension of beach material and so play an important role in surf-zone sedimentological regimes. The analysis of cinematographical records of wave breaking and bottom-sediment response for eight plunging and eight plunging-transition breakers has enabled the study of sand-cloud initiation, evolution and decay. Observations of breaker kinematics in the aerated region after breaking highlight the importance of breaker-induced vortices in controlling the initiation, concentration, elevation and longevity of suspended material in the surf zone.
DE: breaking-waves; resuspended-sediments; surf-zone; waves-on-beaches; films-; numerical-analysis
ID: nearshore-sedimentation
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1993560

                                                                    333 of 380
TI: Application of a simple buoyancy adjustment model to the Japan Sea.
AU: Seung,-Y.-H.
AF: Inha Univ., Inchon 402-751, Korea
SO: BULL.-KOREAN-FISH.-SOC. 1988. vol. 21, no. 6, pp. 311-322
IS: ISSN 0374-8111
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Application of the simple buoyancy adjustment model, similar to Davey's (1983), indicates that buoyancies imposed locally or from outside of the basin are the major factor of the Japan Sea circulation. Within the context of the model considered, the relatively strong EW gradient of temperature, and corresponding western boundary current, in the SW region is due to the beta-effect. Kelvin waves make the western side colder and the eastern side warmer. Buoyancy input (presumably by fresh water discharge) in the NW region, so far neglected, plays an important role in strengthening the NKCC (North Korea Cold Current) and suppressing the EKWC (East Korea Warm Current) thereby breaking the conventional branch system of the Tsushima Warm Current.
DE: hydrodynamics-; buoyancy-; mathematical-models; INW,-Japan-Sea
ID: water-circulation
CL: The-Physical-Environment:-TSD-distribution,-water-masses-and-circulation-1146; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164; Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-TSD-distribution,-water-masses-and-circulation-2146
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 1990591

                                                                    334 of 380
TI: Current-depth refraction of wave spectra.
AU: Yucheng,-L.; Chunrong,-Z.
AF: Dalian Univ. Technol., Dalian, People's Rep. China
SO: CHINA-OCEAN-ENG. 1988. vol. 2, no. 3, pp. 31-41
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method for the analysis of the refraction of wave spectra by the influence of both water depth and current is introduced in this paper. As a result, the software called WCINDS4 for its calculation is recommended. The results are compared with those by regular-wave method.
DE: computer-programmes; wave-propagation; water-wave-motion; numerical-analysis; wave-dynamics
ID: wave-refraction; breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1965273

                                                                    335 of 380
TI: Breaking waves on a macrotidal barred beach: A test of McCowan's Criteria.
AU: Hardisty,-J.; Laver,-A.J.
AF: Marine Morphodynamics Unit, Dep. Geogr., Royal Holloway and Bedford New College, London Univ., Egham, Surrey TW20 0EX, UK
SO: J.-COAST.-RES. 1989. vol. 5, no. 1, pp. 79-82
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The location of the breakpoint on a macrotidal beach can vary in a discontinuous manner due to the presence of longshore bars. A number of studies have examined control on the water depth at which breaking occurs. Here the authors extend those analyses to test predictions of the location of the breakpoint on a barred profile. Observations of breakpoint position and corresponding wave parameters are reported from Gibralter Point on the North Sea coast of eastern England. The results suggest that a value of 0.78 for the ratio of the wave height to the water depth at the breakpoint can be used to model breaker location to +/- 5 m on a 300 m wide intertidal profile.
DE: water-wave-motion; surf-zone; break-point-bars; beach-profiles; water-wave-parameters; breaking-waves; beach-slope; ANE,-British-Isles,-England,-Lincolnshire,-Gibraltar-Point
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Tides,-surges-and-sea-level-2167; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 1960834

                                                                    336 of 380
TI: Investigation of the use of drogues to improve the safety of sailing yachts.
AU: Hervey,-C.L.; Jordan,-D.J.
CA: Coast Guard Research and Development Cent., Groton, CT (USA)
SO: REP.-U.S.-COAST-GUARD-RES.-DEV. 1987. 73 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A188 598/7/GAR. CGR/DC-02/87.
RN: USCG-D-20-87 (USCGD2087)
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: Model and full-scale tests were conducted to investigate the use of drogues to prevent breaking wave capsizing of sailing yachts. A mathematical model was developed which simulates the motion of a boat and rogue in regular waves and in a breaking wave strike. A series drogue is recommended for optimum performance based on the results of this study. Design information for both series and conventional drogues is presented. Prior to this investigation of the use of drogues, comprehensive model tests were conducted in this country and in England to study the effect of sailing yacht design characteristics on breaking wave capsizing vulnerability. Although it was found that certain design characteristics such as beam/length ratio would adversely affect capsize performance, the effect was relatively small and a slightly larger wave would capsize all the designs.
DE: ship-motion; ship-stability; capsizing-; seamanship-; stabilizers-; sailing-ships; breaking-waves
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Ocean-operations-2388; Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Surface-vehicles-2301
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1959460

                                                                    337 of 380
TI: Low frequency ocean ambient noise: Measurements and theory.
AU: Carey,-W.M.; Browning,-D.G.
CA: Naval Underwater Systems Cent., New London, CT (USA). New London Lab
CO: NATO Advanced Research Workshop on Ambient Noise Mechanisms, La Spezia (Italy), 15-19 Jun 1987
SO: TECH.-DOC.-U.S.-NAV.-UNDERWAT.-SYST.-CENT. 1987. 21 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A191 188/2/GAR.
RN: NUSC-TD-8175 (NUSCTD8175)
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); K (Conference); O (Review-Article)
AB: Low frequency ocean ambient noise data are reviewed and summarized. The experimental data, both omnidirectional and directional, when not dominated by shipping noise, are shown to suggest wind dependent noise at the low frequencies (< 500 Hz). Candidate mechanisms are examined with the result that wave-turbulence interaction at low sea states and collective bubble oscillations at high sea states are identified as possible sources of this sound. A description of the sonic properties of bubbly water is presented for low void fractions consistent with those observed in bubble clouds and plumes produced by breaking waves. A description of the collective bubble water mixture as the resonant oscillation of a flexible volume with a sonic speed determined by the properties of the mixture is presented.
DE: literature-reviews; underwater-noise; ambient-noise; surface-noise; noise-sound; bubbles-; breaking-waves; winds-
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1944851

                                                                    338 of 380
TI: Stable three-dimensional biperiodic waves in shallow water.
AU: Scheffner,-N.W.
CA: Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: MISC.-PAP.-U.S.-ARMY-COAST.-ENG.-RES.-CENT. 1988. 202 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A191 053/8/GAR.
RN: CERC-MP-88-4 (CERCMP884)
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: Experiments are presented herein which demonstrate the existence of a new class of long water waves which are genuinely three-dimensional, nonlinear, and of (quasi-) permanent form. These waves are referred to as biperiodic in that they have two real periods, both temporally and spatially. The waves are produced in the laboratory by the simultaneous generation of two cnoidal wave trains which intersect at angles to one another. The resulting surface pattern is represented by a tiling of hexagonal patterns, each of which is bounded by wave crests of spatially variable amplitude. The hexagonal-shaped waves are remarkably robust, retaining their integrity for maximum wave heights up to and including breaking and for widely varying horizontal length scales. The Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation is tested as a model for these biperiodic waves.
DE: waveswater-; shallow-water-waves; nonlinear-waves; long-crested-waves; experimental-research; wave-generation; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1944836

                                                                    339 of 380
TI: Nearshore sand transport.
AU: White,-T.E.
CA: California Univ., San Diego, La Jolla (USA)
SO: 1987. 229 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A185 083/3/GAR. Doctoral thesis.
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Sand transport as bedload on nearly flat beds in shallow water outside the breakers is the subject of this study. Field experiments measuring fluid velocity and sand transport were performed seaward of the breaker region. Fluorescent sand tracer was used to measure both sediment-transport velocity and thickness. Transport thickness is well correlated with orbital diameter but not wave height or fluid velocity. Different powers of the fluid velocity are compared with sediment transport. Results suggest that the appropriate power of fluid velocity necessary for computing and transport may itself be a function of the flow intensity.
DE: nearshore-sedimentation; sediment-transport; sedimentary-environments; sand-; breaking-waves; bed-load; nearshore-dynamics
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1924481

                                                                    340 of 380
TI: Laboratory study of the role of seawater in basalt pebble abrasion.
AU: Bigelow,-G.E.
AF: Dep. Gen. Sci., Univ. Hawaii at Manoa, Honolulu, HI 96822, USA
SO: J.-COAST.-RES. 1988. vol. 4, no. 1, pp. 103-113
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Tumbling experiments simulating the movement of basaltic pebbles on marine benches in tropical environments by transgressive sea waves have raised questions about the role of water in rock wear. Rocks tumbled in distilled water wear more rapidly than identical sets run in seawater, suggesting a solution process. A single rock fragment immersed in seawater or tumbled continuously suffers negligible wear; impact between the rocks seems essential if substantial wear is to occur. Rocks tumbled dry wear much less than rocks tumbled in seawater. Equivalent rock sets were tumbled in seawater and dioxane, a nonpolar cyclical ether, to assess the effect of the polar property of the water molecule in rocks wear. The rocks wore more rapidly in dioxane than in seawater. Thus, water facilitates wear of rock that move against each other, but it apparently is not acting as a solvent. Analysis of encounters between freshly-broken basalt fragments tumbling in seawater indicates surface pressures sufficient to crush the sharpest prominences. As fragments become rounded, impact pressures fall below crushing strength of basalt; some mechanism other than compressive breaking must account for subsequent wear.
DE: pebbles-; sediment-texture; coastal-erosion; erosion-features; wave-action
ID: basalts-
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Methods-and-instruments-2262
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1922691

                                                                    341 of 380
TI: Measurements of wave-variance and velocity spectra in breaking waves.
AU: Liu,-H.-T.; Lin,-J.-T.
AF: Flow Research Co., 21414 68th Ave. S., Kent, WA 98032, USA
SO: EXP.-FLUIDS. 1987. vol. 5, no. 3, pp. 201-212
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Displacements of mechanical waves superposed onto wind waves were measured with a laser displacement gauge in a wind-wave tank. The effects of wave breaking, especially the spilling breaking type, on the wave-variance spectra are investigated.
DE: breaking-waves; spilling-waves; experimental-data
ID: wave-spectra
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: ASFA --2:-Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1921781

                                                                    342 of 380
TI: Wave forces on steeply-sloping sea walls: Oblique incidence.
AU: McKee,-W.D.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. New South Wales, P.O. Box 1, Kensington, N.S.W. 2033, Australia
SO: J.-ENG.-MATH. 1987. vol. 21, no. 2, pp. 87-99
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Study of the forces exerted by non-breaking, normally-incident water waves of small amplitude on a sloping sea wall is here extended to the case of oblique incidence. The range of applicability of the Galerkin solutions is increased by means of the Shanks transform. Results are presented for a planar, outward-sloping sea wall. In shallow water, the total normal wave force per unit span is found to decrease as the wall slope increases, except for extremely obliquely incident waves. In deep water, it increases. Regarded as a function of the angle of incidence  theta , the wave force in shallow water is virtually independent of  theta , except for very oblique waves. In deep water, by contrast, the force first increases with  theta  and then decreases. In this case, the maximum wave force does not occur for normally incident waves.
DE: sea-walls; wave-forces; surface-water-waves; mathematical-analysis
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1919545

                                                                    343 of 380
TI: Nonlinear wave forces acting on submerged horizontal cylinders.
AU: Inoue,-R.; Kyozuka,-Y.
AF: Hiratsuka Res. Lab., Sumitomo Heavy Ind., Ltd., Kanagawa, Japan
CO: 5. International Symposium and Exhibit on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, Tokyo (Japan), 13-22 Apr 1986
SO: J.-OFFSHORE-MECH.-ARCT.-ENG. 1988. vol. 110, no. 1, pp. 62-70
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper presents experimental results of the first and second-order wave forces acting on three kinds of horizontally submerged cylinders. Wave height, wave frequency and the models' submergence were varied in the experiments. These results are compared with the numerical calculations based on the regular perturbation theory. Through this study, it was found that the calculations of both the first and second-order wave forces coincide with the experiments when the cylinders are submerged at a sufficient depth. However, in the case that the cylinders are close to the free surface and/or wave amplitudes are relatively large, the experimental results become small compared with the calculations because of nonlinear effects, such as wave breaking observed in the experiments.
DE: cylinders-; waves-; force-; offshore-structures; frequency-; height-measurement; hydrodynamics-; wave-forces; cylindrical-structures; wave-height; wave-frequency; nonlinear-waves; wave-breaking; semisubmersible-platforms; stability-; mathematical-models
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1918698

                                                                    344 of 380
TI: Internal waves and whitecaps.
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.; Belloul,-M.B.; Hall,-A.J.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., Univ. Southampton, Southampton SO9 5NH, UK
SO: NATURE. 1987. vol. 330, no. 6150, pp. 740-742
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Authors have used an upward-pointing side-scan sonar to obtain a sub-surface view of bands of rough water and whitecaps on the sea surface near Oban, Scotland associated with internal waves travelling on a pycnocline. The sonar provides a means to measure the surface currents induced by the internal waves, the position, or phase, of the surface-wave breaking relative to the internal waves, and to quantify the frequency of wave breaking. The effect of wave breaking caused by wave-current interaction is to transfer momentum from the surface waves to the currents, with a phase which tends to diminish the internal waves in the causes studied. The enhanced turbulence caused by wave breaking may be effective in mixing or eroding the pycnocline.
DE: internal-waves; internal-wave-breaking; internal-wave-effects; white-caps; pycnocline-; ocean-mixing; side-scan-sonar
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1903735

                                                                    345 of 380
TI: Non-symmetric gravity waves on water of infinite depth.
AU: Zufiria,-J.A.
CA: California Inst. of Technology, Pasadena (USA). Dep. of Applied Mathematics
SO: 1987. 23 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A188 441/0/GAR. Also as J. Fluid Mech., 181 17-39 1987.
RN: N00014-79-C-0412 (N0001479C0412)
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: Two different numerical methods are used to demonstrate the existence of and calculate non-symmetric gravity waves on deep water. It is found that they appear via spontaneous symmetry-breaking bifurcations from symmetric waves. The structure of the bifurcation tree is the same as the one found by Zufiria (1987) for waves on water of finite depth using a weakly nonlinear Hamiltonian model. One of the methods is based on the quadratic relations between the Stokes coefficients discovered by Longuet-Higgins (1978a). The other method is a new one based on the Hamiltonian structure of the water-wave problem.
DE: water-waves; gravity-waves; numerical-analysis; waves-
ID: Hamiltonian-model
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1903011

                                                                    346 of 380
TI: Numerical analysis of surface-wave scattering by the boundary element method.
AU: Zhang,-C.; Achenbach,-J.D.
AF: Techn. Inst., Northwestern Univ., Evanston, IL 60208, USA
SO: WAVE-MOTION. 1988. vol. 10, no. 4, pp. 365-374
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Scattering of a Rayleigh surface wave by a surface-breaking crack is investigated. The crack is inclined under an arbitrary angle with the normal to the free surface of a half-space. The representation integral for the scattered displacement field is employed to obtain expressions for the surface tractions. In conjunction with the conditions on the crack faces and on the surface of the half-space, these expressions yield a set of boundary integral equations, which are solved numerically by the boundary element method. Results for the reflection and transmission coefficients, as well as for the time-averaged energy-flux radiated into the solid by body waves, are presented. Parametrical studies reveal the variation of these results with the angle of inclination of the crack and with the frequency of the incident wave.
DE: surface-water-waves; wave-scattering; numerical-analysis
ID: boundary-element-method
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1902753

                                                                    347 of 380
TI: The surface velocity field in steep and breaking waves.
AU: Melville,-W.K.; Rapp,-R.J.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Mass. Inst. Technol., Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1988. vol. 189, pp. 1-22
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Coincident simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement and the horizontal velocity at the surface of steep and breaking waves are presented. The measurements involve laser anemometry at the fluctuating air-water interface and clearly show the limitations of surface displacement measurements in characterizing steep and breaking wave fields. The measurements are used to examine the evolution of the surface drift velocity, spectra, wave envelopes, and forced long waves in unstable deep-water waves.
DE: surface-water-waves; wave-steepness; breaking-waves; wave-velocity; lasers-; anemometers-
ID: laser-anemometry
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1902630

                                                                    348 of 380
TI: Radar returns from the sea surface -- Bragg scattering and breaking waves.
AU: Phillips,-O.M.
AF: Dep. Earth and Planet. Sci., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1988. vol. 18, no. 8, pp. 1065-1074
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Recent ideas on the structure of the equilibrium range of wind-generated ocean waves are applied to the question of radar backscattered returns from the sea surface. It is shown that the backscattering cross section can be represented as the sum of separate contributions from Bragg-scattering and from individual breaking events.
DE: radar-clutter; backscatter-; breaking-waves; radar-imagery; wind-wave-generation; surface-water-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1902522

                                                                    349 of 380
TI: Effects of finite depth and current velocity on large amplitude Kelvin-Helmholtz waves.
AU: Bontozoglou,-V.; Hanratty,-T.J.
AF: Dep. Chem. Eng., Univ. Illinois, Urbana, IL 61801, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1988. vol. 196, pp. 187-204
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The effects of finite depth and current velocity are investigated. Only the lower fluid depth is varied so the waves are functions of four parameters: wave amplitude fluid density ratio, the relative velocity of the fluids and depth. For small-amplitude waves, algebraic expressions have been obtained for the leading-order nonlinear corrections. To obtain results for larger amplitudes, a new numerical method has been developed, which can handle fluids of arbitrary uniform depth and any density ratio. The question of the geometrical limit for waves of large height is also addressed. Extensive numerical calculations performed for the air-water system indicate that the location where the waves steepen with increasing amplitude depends strongly on the current velocity. These results imply that, if water waves are caused to break under the action of wind by reaching a limiting height, the point of breaking should depend on the wind velocity. This is an example of a situation where air has a profound effect on the behaviour of the system.
DE: water-waves; surface-water-waves; surface-gravity-waves; breaking-waves; air-sea-interaction; atmospheric-pressure; current-velocity; numerical-analysis; wave-geometry
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1901482

                                                                    350 of 380
TI: Instability and breaking of a solitary wave.
AU: Tanaka,-M.; Dold,-J.W.; Lewy,-M.; Peregrine,-D.H.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. Bristol, University Walk, Bristol BS8 1TW, UK
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1987. vol. 185, pp. 235-248
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The result of a linear stability calculation of solitary waves which propagate steadily along the free surface of a liquid layer of constant depth is examined numerically by employing a time-stepping scheme based on a boundary-integral method. The initial growth rate that is found for sufficiently small perturbations agrees well with the growth rate expected from the linear stability calculation. In calculating the later "nonlinear" stage of the instability, it is found that two distinct types of long-time evolution are possible. These depend only on the sign of the unstable normal-mode perturbation that is superimposed initially on the steady wave. The growth of the perturbation ultimately leads to breaking for one sign. Unexpectedly, for the opposite sign, there is a monotonic decrease in the total height of the wave. In this latter case there is a smooth evolution to a stable solitary wave of lesser amplitude but very nearly the same energy.
DE: solitary-waves; stability-; instability-; wave-breaking; numerical-analysis
ID: boundary-integral-method
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1889783

                                                                    351 of 380
TI: Drogues: A study to improve the safety of sailing yachts.
AU: Hervey,-C.L.; Jordan,-D.J.
AF: U.S. Coast Guard Res. Dev. Cent., Groton, CT, USA
CO: Meet.,New England Sect., Soc. Nav. Architects and Mar. Eng., (np) (USA), 2 Apr 1987
SO: MAR.-TECHNOL. 1988. vol. 25, no. 2, pp. 136-144
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
AB: Sailing yachts, in particular those less than 45 ft in length, face the potential hazard of breaking wave capsize when sailing offshore. A study was conducted using both model and full-scale tests to investigate the use of a drogue to alleviate the potential of capsize. In addition, a mathematical model was prepared which simulates the motion of a boat and drogue in regular waves and in a breaking wave strike. The results have shown that this technique offers the promise of a large improvement in safety, and it can be readily applied to the current fleet of sailing yachts with only minor modifications to existing hardware.
DE: ship-motion; ship-stability; capsizing-; stabilizers-; drogues-; breaking-waves; sailing-ships; yachts-
CL: Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Surface-vehicles-2301; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Ocean-operations-2388; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Tools,-rigging-and-deck-machinery-2391
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1889755

                                                                    352 of 380
TI: Recent Developments in offshore hydrodynamics: Workshop report.
AU: Stansby,-P.K.; Isaacson,-M.
AF: Simon Eng. Lab., Univ. Manchester, Manchester M13 9PL, UK
CO: Recent Developments in Offshore Hydrodynamics: Workshop ,  Manchester (UK),  8-9  Jul 1986
SO: APPL.-OCEAN-RES. 1987. vol. 9, no. 3, pp. 118-127
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A workshop was held at the Simon Engineering Lab., Univ. Manchester, during 8-9 Jul. 1986, to review developments in offshore hydrodynamics. Topics discussed include descriptions of breaking and directional waves and their effects on offshore structures, other nonlinear wave interactions with structures, the numerical simulation of separated flows and experimental studies of separated flows. This report provides a summary of the workshop proceedings.
DE: offshore-structures; hydrodynamics-; breaking-waves; wave-forces; wave-effects; flow-around-objects; mathematical-models; Morison'-s-equation; conferences-
ID: directional-spectra; separated-flows
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; General-Aspects:-Conferences,-meetings,-etc.-2106
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1889723

                                                                    353 of 380
TI: The runup of solitary waves.
AU: Synolakis,-C.E.
AF: Sch. Eng., Univ. Southern California, Los Angeles, CA 90089-0242, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1987. vol. 185, pp. 523-545
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: This is a study of the runup of solitary waves on plane beaches. An approximate theory is presented for non-breaking waves and an asymptotic result is derived for the maximum runup of solitary waves. A series of laboratory experiments is described to support the theory. It is shown that the linear theory predicts the maximum runup satisfactorily, and that the nonlinear theory describes the climb of solitary waves equally well. Different runup regimes are found to exist for the runup of breaking and non-breaking waves. A breaking criterion is derived for determining whether a solitary wave will break as it climbs up a sloping beach, and a different criterion is shown to apply for determining whether a wave will break during rundown. These results are used to explain some of the existing empirical runup relationships.
DE: beach-slope; wave-processes-on-beaches; breaking-waves; wave-runup; solitary-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1889720

                                                                    354 of 380
TI: Space-time characteristics of whitecaps and foam patches formed by breaking waves.
AU: Bortkovskii,-R.S.
SO: SOV.-METEOROL.-HYDROL. 1987. no. 5, pp. 56-63
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The results of investigations of the state of the ocean surface are analyzed by the photogrammetric method. The statistical dependences of the relative coverage of the surface by whitecaps and foam and the dimensions of these formations on the wind speed are revised, and dependences of the characteristics of the state of the interface on water temperature are established. Based on data on the dimensions of the whitecaps and the duration of continuous braking, the authors estimated the typical rate of movement of whitecaps; it is 15-30% of the phase velocity of energy-bearing wind waves.
DE: whitecaps-; foams-; breaking-waves; photogrammetry-; wind-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1883311

                                                                    355 of 380
TI: Breaking of wind-generated waves.
AU: Xu,-D.-L.; Hwang,-P.A.; Wu,-J.
AF: Shandong Coll. Oceanogr., Qingdao, Shandong, People's Rep. China
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1986. vol. 16, no. 12, pp. 2172-2178
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking of wind generated waves was studied in a laboratory tank. The critical surface slope and global wave steepness for inception of breaking were evaluated. Besides the frequency of occurrence, two other characteristic quantities, height and duration of breaking, were measured. The frequency of breaking was found to increase rapidly with wind velocity, following a power law U super(2.2). The period of breaking remained about 7% of the wave period at all wind velocities. The height of breaking was about 30% of the wave height. Portions of these results compare favorably with other available measurements.
DE: wave-tanks; wave-breaking; wind-waves; analysis-; wave-slope; wave-steepness
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1861897

                                                                    356 of 380
TI: Acoustic and microwave signatures of breaking waves.
AU: Melville,-W.K.; Loewen,-M.R.; Felizardo,-F.C.; Jessup,-A.T.; Buckingham,-M.J.
AF: R.M. Parsons Lab., Massachusetts Inst. Technol., Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
SO: NATURE. 1988. vol. 336, no. 6194, pp. 54-56
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Field experiments have shown that breaking ocean waves may register as discrete events in passive acoustic and active microwave remote sensing measurements of the ocean surface. Using a laboratory model of deep-water wave breaking super(1,2) we show here that the noise generated by breaking and the radar cross-section of breaking waves both correlate with the dissipation of surface wave energy. Our results imply that these remote sensing techniques ultimately may be used to measure the dynamics of breaking waves, and are not restricted simply to obtaining the statistics and kinematics of breaking.
DE: breaking-waves; deep-water; acoustic-data; microwaves-; energy-dissipation; remote-sensing
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Underwater-Optics:-Optical-properties-2223
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1857373

                                                                    357 of 380
TI: A study of relationship between breaking waves and roughness length of sea surface.
OT: Pobo yu haimian cuzao changdu de guanxi
AU: Xu,-Delun
AF: Shandong Coll. Oceanol., Qingdao, People's Rep. China
SO: OCEANOL.-LIMNOL.-SIN.-HAIYANG-YU-HUZHAO. 1987. vol. 18, no. 5, pp. 477-480
IS: ISSN 0029-814X
PY: 1987
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Through measurements of breaking waves in a wind-waves tank by a refined method, it was found that the roughness length of sea surface, z sub(0), is well proportional to the jump height of sea surface, J@)u similar to  sub(h) at wind velocities above 7.5 m/s, with a proportion coefficient  beta  = 1/5.5 for laboratory wind waves. This relation empirically revealed the physical and geometrical significance of z sub(0). That is, z sub(0) can be regarded as averaged roughness element of sea surface, as defined originally for rough flow over a solid surface in air dynamics. The empirical relation can also be used to rewrite the log-law of wind profile in a more applicable form, by which one can easily calculate the friction velocity u sub(*) from U sub(10) and J@u similar to  sub(h), whereas the traditional measure of determining u sub(*) the wind profile of eddy correlation method, is difficult to use in the field.
DE: braking-waves; surface-roughness; length-; wave-height; wind-speed
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1856651

                                                                    358 of 380
TI: Effect of current on spectrum of breaking waves in water of finite depth.
AU: Tung,-C.C.; Huang,-N.E.
AF: Box 7908, North Carolina State Univ., Raleigh, NC 27695-7908, USA
SO: PROB.-ENG.-MECH. 1987. vol. 2, no. 3, pp. 121-128
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper presents an approximate method to compute the mean value, the mean square value and the spectrum of waves in water of finite depth taking into account the effect of wave breaking with or without the presence of current. It is assumed that there exists a linear and Gaussian ideal wave train whose spectrum is first obtained using the wave energy flux balance equation without considering wave breaking. The Miche wave breaking criterion for waves in finite water depth is used to limit the wave elevation and establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the elevation and its second time derivative of the ideal waves. Simple expressions for the mean value, the mean square value and the spectrum are obtained.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; ocean-currents; breaking-waves; wave-energy; wave-spectra; current-velocity
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1856501

                                                                    359 of 380
TI: Lift as a mechanism of patch initiation in mussel beds.
AU: Denny,-M.W.
AF: Hopkins Mar. Stn., Dep. Biol. Sci., Stanford Univ., Pacific Grove, CA 93950, USA
SO: J.-EXP.-MAR.-BIOL.-ECOL. 1987. vol. 113, no. 3, pp. 231-245
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The mussels Mytilus californianus  is the dominant competitor for space in the mid-intertidal zone of wave-swept rocky shores in the Pacific Northwest where it forms extensive tightly packed beds. The rate at which patches are formed in these beds, can play and important role in community ecology by controlling the establishment and persistence of fugitive species. Despite the biological importance of physical disturbance, the mechanism of patch initiation has not been adequately explained. Here, it is suggested that fluid-dynamic lift forces imposed on mussel beds by breaking waves are sufficient to dislodge individual mussels and trigger patch formation. Arguments are presented suggesting that the likelihood of dislodgment by lift is consistent with the observed rate of patch formation in the absence of log battering.
DE: habitat-utilization; population-dynamics; hydrodynamics-; USA,-Northwest-Coast; colonies-; marine-mollusks; ecosystem-disturbance; Mytilus-californianus; intertidal-environment; wave-forces; breaking-waves; INE,-USA,-Pacific-Northwest
ID: disruption-
CL: Autecology:-Environmental-effects-1422
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 1827457

                                                                    360 of 380
TI: Recession rate of glacial till bluffs.
AU: Kamphuis,-J.W.
AF: Civ. Eng., Queen's Univ., Kingston, Ont. K7L 3N6, Canada
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1987. vol. 113, no. 1, pp. 60-76
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The relationship between waves and recession rate of cohesive bluff shorelines consisting of glacial till is explained in physical terms as a function of wave-foreshore interaction. An equation is derived based on wave energy dissipation rate in the breaking zone and on wave shear stresses offshore of the breaking zone. Measured long-term recession rates of bluffs along the north shore of Lake Erie are compared to hindcast long-term average wave power and related to the equations developed in this paper.
DE: cliffs-; glacial-deposits; coastal-erosion; retrogradation-; wave-effects; North-America,-Erie-L.
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1816101

                                                                    361 of 380
TI: Run-up of internal waves on a gentle slope in a two-layered system.
AU: Wallace,-B.C.; Wilkinson,-D.L.
AF: Water Res. Lab., Univ. New South Wales, Manly Vale, Australia
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1988. vol. 191, pp. 419-442
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: This paper describes the dissipative phase of internal-wave run-up on uniform slopes of 0.030 and 0.054 rad as observed in a series of laboratory experiments. The waves were generated continuously at the interface of two miscible layers of differing density. As each wave in the periodic train propagated onto the slope, it steepened and developed into a solitary-like wave before finally overturning. Surrounding fluid was engulfed into the wave as it overturned and the resulting gravitational instability produced considerable turbulence and mixing. The broken wave took the form of a discrete bolus of dense fluid which propagated for some distance up the slope. Bulk parameters which characterize the nature of the bolus were defined and the dependence of these on the incident wave parameters and their behaviour during the run-up phase were examined.
DE: internal-waves; stratified-shear-flow; turbulence-; turbulent-entrainment; microstructure-; wave-runup; wave-breaking
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1812904

                                                                    362 of 380
TI: Nonlinear model predictions of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves.
AU: Elgar,-S.; Guza,-R.T.
AF: Coll. Eng., Univ. Idaho, Moscow, ID 83843, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1986. vol. 167, pp. 1-18
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Boussinesq-type nonlinear equations for waves propagating over a sloping bottom are shown to accurately model the evolving bispectra of a spectrum of non-breaking shoaling ocean-surface gravity waves. The model response to a variation of the gentle, constant beach slope and the amount of nonlinear (i.e. non-random) phase coupling in the initial conditions is also examined. Variation of these quantities results in relatively little change in the overall structural evolution of the bicoherence and biphase (related to the nonlinear modification of the wave shape). The apparent unimportance of bottom slope motivates consideration of constant-depth KdV equations. Simple analytic solutions are found for harmonic growth in the special case of a monochromatic primary wavetrain. The associated bispectral evolution is qualitatively similar to field observations and to predictions based on the full Boussinesq model for a sloping bottom.
DE: gravity-waves; surface-water-waves; shoaling-waves; Boussinesq-approximation; wave-propagation; prediction-; beach-slope
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1805192

                                                                    363 of 380
TI: Dredging operations technical support program. Wave transmission characteristics of various floating and bottom-fixed rubber-tire break-water in shallow water; experimental model investigation.
AU: Markle,-D.G.; Cialone,-M.A.
CA: Army Coastal Engineering Reserach Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: MISC.-PAP.-U.S.-ARMY-COAST.-ENG.-RES.-CENT. 1987. 44 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A187 579/8/GAR.
RN: CERC-MP-87-8 (CERCMP878)
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: A two-dimensional experimental model investigation was conducted at a scale of 1:4, model:prototype, to determine and compare the wave transmission characteristics of various floating and bottom-fixed, rubber-tire breakwater concepts when placed over or on a mild bottom slope in shallow water and exposed to nonbreaking and breaking waves. Wave transmission characteristics of each concept as it corresponds to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, wave steepness, relative wave height, and relative depth are presented in both graphical and tabular form. The concepts are ranked from the best to worst relative to the wave protection they appear to provide in a shallow-water wave environment.
DE: breakwaters-; scale-models; shallow-water; wave-propagation
ID: rubber-tire-breakwaters
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1801110

                                                                    364 of 380
TI: Wave transformation in the surf zone.
AU: Dally,-W.R.
CA: Florida Univ., Gainesville (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1988. vol. 48, no. 8, 185 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D.: Order No. DA8724903.
PY: 1988
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
AB: The transformation of wave height during the processes of shoaling, breaking and reformation as waves cross the nearshore region is investigated. Previous work by the author on regular breaking waves is extended to a random wave field, and two closed form solutions for the probability density function (pdf) of breaking and non-breaking wave height for a planar beach are derived.
DE: surf-zone; wave-breaking; breaking-wave; wave-height; wave-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1782135

                                                                    365 of 380
TI: Remote radiometry of sea wave breaking.
OT: Radiodistantsionnye issledovaniya protsessa obrusheniya morskoj volny
AU: Chernyj,-I.V.; Sharkov,-E.A.
AF: Inst. Kosm. Issled. AN. S.S.S.R., Moscow, USSR
SO: ISSLED.-ZEML.-KOSMOS.-EARTH-RES.-SPACE. 1988. no. 2, pp. 17-28
IS: ISSN 0205-9614
PY: 1988
LA: Russian
LS: English; Russian
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Behavior of radiation and scattering characteristics of a single breaking wave was investigated using concurrent filming and measurements with a radiometer. Two stages of breaking (spray and foam formation) were established. The analysis of high frequency spectrum of the scatterometric signal which carried information on the Doppler velocity field of moving scatterers allowed for drawing a conclusion that the speckle structure of the scattered signal field (horizontal polarization) is governed by the spray phase above a rough sea surface.
DE: breaking-waves; spray-; foams-; remote-sensing; radiometers-
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1781810

                                                                    366 of 380
TI: Mound with reversed parapet.
OT: Fanxiang fanglangxiongqiang de yanjiu
AU: You,-Xihua
AF: Hehai Univ., Nanjing, People's Rep. China
SO: J.-EAST-CHINA-TECH.-UNIV.-WATER-RESOUR.-HEHAI-DAXUE-XUEBAO. 1987. vol. 18, no. 4, pp. 100-104
IS: ISSN 1000-1980
PY: 1987
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave pressure distribution on the top of a rubble-mound with parapet was obtained from model tests. The stability of the reversed parapet located on the rubble-mond was analysed and its advantages and utility are discussed.
DE: breaking-waves; stability-; rubble-mound-breakwaters; mathematical-models; coastal-structures
ID: reversed-parapet
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1777409

                                                                    367 of 380
TI: Prediction of shoreline evolution near breakwater on sand beach.
OT: Shazhi hai'an fangbodi fujin anxian bianxing yuce
AU: Gu,-Jialong; Shen,-Xiangrong
AF: Hehai Univ., Nanjing, People's Rep. China
SO: J.-EAST-CHINA-TECH.-UNIV.-WATER-RESOUR.-HEHAI-DAXUE-XUEBAO. 1987. vol. 15, no. 4, pp. 81-91
IS: ISSN 1000-1980
PY: 1987
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical simulation with implicit scheme for the prediction of sandy shoreline evolution is presented. Compared with the conventional explicit scheme, it offers more stable computation, longer time steps and shorter computing time. It takes into account the influence of change of shoreline on the wave refraction and that of wave diffraction and refraction on the beach erosion in the lee of breakwater. Example of computing the shoreline evolution near a breakwater is presented. The model presented can be recommended for predicting the shoreline evolution in planning and designing coastal engineering.
DE: beaches-; breakwaters-; breaking-waves; mathematical-models; coasts-; wave-energy; energy-transfer
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1777400

                                                                    368 of 380
TI: (Concerning the efficiency of wave models on microcomputers.).
OT: Zur Leistungsfaehigkeit von Wellenmodellen auf Microcomputern
AU: Zanke,-U.
AF: Ackerstr. 21, 3008 Garbsen, FRG
SO: KUESTE. 1987. no. 45, pp. 165-180
IS: ISSN 0452-7739
PY: 1987
LA: German
LS: German; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The calculation of waves propagating onshore in coastal regions is necessary for the design of harbors and coastal structures. These investigations may be carried out in three ways: hydraulic models, graphically or with numerical models. All three methods have restrictions related to cost and technical limitations. As the level of performance of low cost computers is increasing, complex "desk top" calculations become attractive. Such a model for the calculation of wave refraction, shoaling, diffraction, bottom friction, breaking and wind induced wave height is discussed in this paper.
DE: wave-propagation; coastal-zone; computers-; wave-diffraction; wave-height; wave-refraction; wave-breaking
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1775569

                                                                    369 of 380
TI: Variation of the concentrations and composition of sediments suspended by highly deformed and breaking waves.
AU: Kos'-yan,-R.D.; Kochergin,-A.D.
AF: Southern Div., Shirshov Inst. Oceanol., USSR Acad. Sci., Gelendzhik, USSR
SO: OCEANOL.-ACAD.-SCI.-USSR. 1987. vol. 27, no. 2, pp. 211-216
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The investigation was performed at a fixed point in midwater as waves in various degrees of deformation passed. Under such conditions the concentration may vary by a factor of 15. The increase in the weight of suspended matter is produced by turbulence caused by the breaking of surface waves. The changes in the concentrations and composition of suspended matter are ergodic processes. Stable mean value of their characteristics are achieved after a time equivalent to the passage of 800 waves. The empirical distribution of the composition of suspended matter can be approximated by the log-normal curve, but this agreement is degraded when there are sharp changes in the concentration of suspended matter.
DE: suspended-load; resuspended-sediments; particle-size; sediment-composition; breaking-waves
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1775561

                                                                    370 of 380
TI: Design of a caisson plate under wave impact.
AU: Kirkgoez,-M.S.; Mengi,-Y.
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Cukurova Univ., Adana, Turkey
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1987. vol. 14, no. 4, pp. 275-284
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: From lab experiments and field studies it is shown that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical wall, impact pressures of high magnitude and short duration are produced. The theoretical analysis of the response characteristics of a caisson plate, having different aspect ratios, under the wave impact loading is investigated. Numerical results for the dynamic values of moments and transverse displacements are obtained by the method of finite elements. Some prerequisite experimental data for wave breaking and resulting impact pressures are provided. The static results for moments and deflections are also computed for comparing them with the dynamic values. The dynamic results are found significantly greater than the static values. The ratio between the dynamic and static values is called "Dynamic magnification factor" that varies with plate aspect ratio. Based on this factor a procedure is proposed which may have practical consequences in the design of caisson plates.
DE: wave-forces; caissons-; offshore-structures; structural-analysis; design-; mathematical-models; finite-element-method; breaking-waves
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-General-2321
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1760777

                                                                    371 of 380
TI: Beach and shoreface response to sea-level rise: Ocean City, Maryland, U.S.A.
AU: Leatherman,-S.P.
AF: Lab. Coast. Res., Dep. Geogr., Univ. Maryland, College Park, MD 20742, USA
SO: PROG.-OCEANOGR. 1987. vol. 18, no. 1-4, pp. 139-149
NT: Special issue: Hydrodynamic, sedimentary consequences of sea-level change.
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Sea-level is one of the principal determinants of shoreline position. Sea-level rise induces or accelerates on-going shore retreat since deeper water decreases wave refraction, thus increasing littoral drift, and also allowing waves to arrive closer to shore before breaking. Ocean City, Maryland, was selected as a case study site to determine historical shoreline changes and to project future beach erosion based on accelerated rates of sea-level rise. During the past 130 years (1850-1980), this shore has retreated  similar to  75m and many highrise buildings at Ocean City are now threatened during storm conditions. Accelerated sea-level rise is expected to increase the rate of retreat by a factor of 2 to 5 based on analysis of present trends. This significantly reduces the planning time available for mitigating the hazard and increases the vulnerability of this urbanised barrier through time.
DE: sea-level-changes; beach-erosion; wave-scouring; urbanization-; historical-account; long-term-changes; ANW,-USA,-Maryland,-Ocean-City
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Topography-and-morphology-2263; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Tides,-surges-and-sea-level-2167
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 1743320

                                                                    372 of 380
TI: Propagation and transformation of non-linear waves on uniformly sloping beaches. 2. Breaking of waves.
AU: Sun,-F.
AF: Shandong Coll. Oceanogr., Qingdao, People's Rep. China
SO: ACTA-OCEANOL.-SIN.-HAIYANG-XUEBAO. 1987. vol. 6, no. 2, pp. 169-176
IS: ISSN 0253-505X-758
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A systematic discussion based on a previous theory is given for such breaking characteristics on sloping beaches as breaking depths and breaker heights. Through introducing two empirical constants and considering the complexity of the subject studied, the final results were in good agreement with observations. Further experimental verification and theoretical study are necessary.
DE: nonlinear-waves; wave-propagation; wave-breaking; beach-slope; breakers-; numerical-analysis; breaking-waves
ID: sloping-beaches
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1735503

                                                                    373 of 380
TI: Nepheloid layers and internal waves over continental shelves and slopes.
AU: Cacchione,-D.A.; Drake,-D.E.
AF: U.S. Geol. Surv., MS-999, 345 Middlefield Rd., Menlo Park, CA 94025, USA
SO: GEO-MAR.-LETT. 1986. vol. 6, no. 3, pp. 147-152
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Theoretical and laboratory results indicate that bottom velocities within shoaling internal gravity waves intensify upslope approximately inversely proportional to the water depth. The elevated velocities (and bottom stresses) caused by shoaling and, possibly, breaking internal waves might explain the generation and maintenance of near-bottom nepheloid zones and attached turbid plumes that have been observed over certain continental shelves and slopes. This process is proposed as an explanation of zones of relatively low transmissibility that emanate from the upper continental slope near Newport submarine canyon off southern California.
DE: nepheloid-layer; internal-waves; shoaling-; shelf-dynamics; INE,-USA,-California,-Newport-Canyon
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-General-2261
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 1716279

                                                                    374 of 380
TI: Pivoting engine installation for beachlanding boats.
AU: Overa,-A.; Ravikumar,-R.
CA: FAO/SIDA Proj., Dev. Small-Scale Fish., Bay of Bengal, Madras (India)
SO: MADRAS-INDIA-FAO-SIDA 1986. 14 pp
RN: FAO/SIDA BOBP/WP/44 (BOBPWP44)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper describes the efforts to develop an appropriate engine installation for boats designed and developed for fishermen in India and Sri Lanka operating from surf ridden beaches. These boats have to negotitate rough surf conditions for most part of the year with breaking waves up to two metres in height. The different types of pivoting engine installations tried out with air-cooled and water-cooled engines of different makes are detailed. The problems faced, the improvements made and the conclusions derived are set out. A detailed description of an installation is included.
DE: artisanal-fishing; motors-; fishing-vessel; marine-fisheries; development-projects; ISW,-India; ISW,-Sri-Lanka
CL: Practical-Aspects-of-Fisheries:-Fishing-vessels-and-harbors-1562
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
AN: 1712475

                                                                    375 of 380
TI: Weakly nonlinear non-symmetric gravity waves on water of finite depth.
AU: Zufiria,-J.A.
AF: Appl. Math., California Inst. Technol., Pasadena, CA 91125, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1987. vol. 180, pp. 371-385
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: A weakly nonlinear Hamiltonian model for two-dimensional irrotational waves on waves of finite depth is developed. The truncated model is used to study families of periodic travelling waves of permanent form. It is shown that non-symmetric periodic waves exist, which appear via spontaneous symmetry-breaking bifurcations from symmetric waves.
DE: nonlinear-waves; surface-gravity-waves; waveform-analysis; water-depth; models-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1701001

                                                                    376 of 380
TI: Experimental study of the passing of a solitary wave over a shelf.
OT: Etude experimentale d'une onde solitaire au-dessus d'un seuil
AU: Renouard,-D.P.; Seabra-Santos,-F.J.; Zhang,-X.
AF: Inst. Mecanique Grenoble, BP 68, F 38402 Saint-Martin d'Heres Cedex, France
SO: OCEANOL.-ACTA. 1987. vol. 10, no. 3, pp. 257-266
IS: ISSN 0399-1784
PY: 1987
LA: French
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In a (36 m x 0.55 m x 1.30 m) channel equipped with a paddle, the authors study the fission of a barotropic or a baroclinic solitary wave incident on a step-like topography. An analytical model developed by Kabbaj from the shallow-water hypothesis forecasts the fission of an incident barotropic wave into one reflected wave and at least two transmitted waves over the shelf. Experiments supports these predictions, and the measured and computed amplitudes are of the same order of magnitude. Observed deviation between model and experiments can be explained on the one hand by the viscous damping which is not accounted for in the model, and on the other hand by the fact that the analytical solution is limited to the first order approximation.
DE: solitary-waves; wave-amplitude; shelf-waves; wave-breaking; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1700496

                                                                    377 of 380
TI: Velocity and force measurements in the splash zone.
AU: Easson,-W.J.
AF: Phys. Dep., Edinburgh Univ., J.C.M.B., King's Build., Mayfield Rd., Edinburgh, UK
SO: STRAIN. 1987. vol. 23, no. 1, pp. 15-18
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: A method for measuring fluid velocity in waves in the splash zone is demonstrated. The method uses laser anemometry coupled to accurate microcomputer control of the wave generation. Results are presented for the developing flow field in a plunging breaking wave in deep water. The phenomenon of slam when waves hit members of offshore structures causes large forces with small rise times. The design of a rig capable of measuring such forces in laboratory produced breaking waves is presented. Measurements on a small cylinder show that maximum forces are present at the height where the plunging spout forms and that these forces can be up to five times the drag force.
DE: wave-forces; breaking-waves; cylinders-; fluid-flow; flow-measurement; lasers-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1687119

                                                                    378 of 380
TI: Computation of longshore transport rate under random waves.
OT: Buguizebo zuoyongxia yan'an shushalu de jisuan
AU: Chen,-S.-Y.
AF: Dalian Inst. Technol., Dalian, People's Rep. China
SO: MAR.-SCI.-BULL.-HAIYANG-TONGBAO. 1987. vol. 6, no. 2, pp. 51-56
PY: 1987
LA: Chinese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Prediction of the longshore transport rate is very important in erosion-deposition research work on beaches. In engineering practice, the measured data are usually expressed in terms of deep or intermediate water wave characteristics, the average height of the highest 1/10 of the waves, the mean wave period and the mean incident angle. Which of the deep water characteristics should be used to compute the breaking wave characteristics and then the longshore transport rate is a problem not yet solved. A discussion on this problem is presented.
DE: water-waves; wave-effects; longshore-sediment-transport; computation-
ID: random-waves
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1648836

                                                                    379 of 380
TI: Effect of internal waves on mixing of sea water and formation of water masses in Uranouchi Bay.
OT: Uranouchi-wan no naibuha to teiso suikai no keisei kiko
AU: Munekage,-Y.; Kimura,-H.; Kitano,-M.
AF: Lab. Fish. Eng., Fac. Agric., Kochi Univ., Nankoku 783, Japan
SO: REP.-USA-MAR.-BIOL.-INST.-KOCHI-UNIV.-KOCHIDAI-KAIYOSEIBUTSU-KENPO. 1986. no. 8, pp. 35-44
IS: ISSN 0387-9763
PY: 1986
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Standing internal waves often occur in Uranouchi Bay (Japan) during the summer stratification season, and affect the water temperature, salinity, and velocity. The TS-diagrams and the distributions of vertical diffusivities were analyzed. The breaking of internal waves which occurred on the slopes at the end of the bay, resulted in a mixing of the waters between the upper and lower layers of the pycnocline. A new water mass was formed and the bottom water was exchanged. In these mixing areas, the lower vertical diffusivities show large values (i.e. about 1 cm super(2)/sec at 1 to 3 meters just above the bottom) in comparison with those of the upper layers.
DE: internal-wave-breaking; water-mixing; vertical-mixing; diffusion-coefficients; water-masses; INW,-Japan,-Shikoku,-Uranouchi-Bay; stratification-; T/S-diagrams
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166; Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-TSD-distribution,-water-masses-and-circulation-2146
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 1648645

                                                                    380 of 380
TI: Infrasonic ocean noise sources: Wind versus waves.
AU: Nichols,-R.H.
AF: Phys. Dep., Nav. Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA 93943, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1987. vol. 82, no. 4, pp. 1395-1402
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Published theories on the mechanism of generation of infrasonic (1- to 20-Hz) ambient ocean noise attribute the sources variously to wind, waves, turbulent currents, or combinations thereof. In an effort to investigate the relative importance of wind and waves as noise generators, a 40-day series of concurrent measurements of wind speed, waveheight, and noise spectrum level at eight frequencies from 2.5-20.0 Hz was made at each of three deep-water sites. One was in a high-wind area, another in a low-wind area, and the third in an intermediate weather zone. Cross correlations of the overall 40-day series of noise levels with those of wind speed and of waveheight indicated that wind speed is the factor more related to infrasonic noise level.
DE: oceanography-; noise-; acoustics-; wind-; waves-; ambient-noise; wind-speed; breaking-waves
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1634914
