
                                                                      1 of 309
TI: Breaking waves on beaches.
AU: Peregrine,-D.H.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. Bristol, Bristol BS8 1TW, UK
SO: ANNU.-REV.-FLUID-MECH. 1983. vol. 15, pp. 149-178
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Visitors to any coastline exposed to open water can see the dramatic transformation of surface waves that occurs as they advance onto a beach. The waves offshore have a relatively smooth water surface, whereas the waves arriving at the shoreline have rough white fronts of spray and bubbles. The transition between these two types of waves is the subject of this review; the term "wave breaking" is used here to describe the transition from a smooth wave to the quasi-steady state with a white-water front rather than to any particular instant within the transition.
DE: breaking-waves; waves-on-beaches; wave-breaking; spilling-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1604010

                                                                      2 of 309
TI: Formation of a tombolo between the upheaving two conical islands.
OT: Ryukisuru futatsu no shima no aida ni dekiru tonboro. Kaihin junkanryu no oyobosu koka
AU: Hashima,-M.
AF: Dep. Phys., Natl. Def. Med. Coll., Namiki 3-2, Tokorozawa 359, Japan
SO: UMI-MER. 1986. vol. 24, no. 4, pp. 193-197
IS: ISSN 0503-1540
PY: 1986
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The formation of a tombolo between the upheaving of two circular islands is discussed. One of the islands is large and the other is small. The formation of tombolos behind a circular island is a common geographical phenomenon. On the upwave side of the island, sand is transported toward the island lee by longshore current. If the island is small, a single tombolo is formed at the center of the shadow. However, for the larger island, two sand spits appear on the sides of the shadow axis. These phenomena are used to explain the presence of a single tombolo that is observed at the volcanic island Iwo-Jima. The longshore circulations caused by waves breaking along the beach around a circular island are calculated numerically.
DE: tombolos-; longshore-currents; mathematical-models; ISEW,-Iwo-Jima
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 1603908

                                                                      3 of 309
TI: Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,-M.S.
AF: Dep. Appl. Math. and Theor. Phys., Silver St., Cambridge CB3 9EW, UK
CO: IUTAM Symposium on Fluid Mechanics in the Spirit of G.I. Taylor, Cambridge (UK), 24-28 Mar 1986
SO: IUTAM-SYMPOSIUM-ON-FLUID-MECHANICS-IN-THE-SPIRIT-OF-G.I.-TAYLOR. 1986. vol. 173 pp. 683-707
ST: J.-FLUID-MECH. vol. 173
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Surface waves can be recorded in two kinds of ways, either with a fixed (Eulerian) probe or with a free-floating (Lagrangian) buoy. In steep waves, the differences between corresponding properties can be very marked. By a simple physical model and by accurate calculation it is shown that the Lagrangian wave period may differ from the Eulerian wave period by as much as 38%. The Lagrangian mean level is also higher than the Eulerian mean, leading to possible discrepancies in remote sensing of the ocean from satellites. A novel application is made to the rolling motion of ships. In very steep, irrotational waves it is shown theoretically that the flow near the wave crest can lead to the rotation of the hull through angles up to 120 degree  by a single wave, even if the wave is not breaking. This is confirmed by simple experiments. The efficiency of the keel appears to promote capsizing.
DE: surface-water-waves; drifting-data-buoys; fixed-stations; equations-of-motion; ship-motion; wave-period
ID: Eulerian-; Lagrangian-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1603683

                                                                      4 of 309
TI: Coastal currents, internal wave collapses and turbulence in the Strait of Messina zone.
AU: Salusti,-E.; Santoleri,-R.
AF: INFN, Dep. Phys., Univ. "La Sapienza", P.le A. Moro 2, 00185 Rome, Italy
CO: Int. Liege Colloq. on Ocean Hydrodynamics (Liege (Belgium)) (1987)
SO: THREE-DIMENSIONAL-MODELS-OF-MARINE-AND-ESTUARINE-DYNAMICS. Nihoul,-J.C.J.;Jamart,-B.M.-eds. 1987. vol. 45 pp. 337-358
IS: ISBN 0-444-42794-5
ST: ELSEVIER-OCEANOGR.-SER. vol. 45
NT: Incl. bibliogr.: 23 ref.
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference); N (Numerical-Data)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Physical phenomena occurring in the area of the Strait of Messina, related to the current and interface rising on the sill are analyzed on the basis of recent experimental observations. The measurements of the interface time evolution on the sill have revealed for the first time the presence of turbulent columnar disturbances. The formation of a peculiar front in the Gulf of Gioia, in the southern Tyrrhenian Sea, is described as the result of turbulent mixing due to the breaking of nonlinear internal waves on the shelf of this Gulf, directly oriented toward the Strait of Messina where these waves are generated.
DE: nearshore-currents; water-mixing; turbulent-diffusion; hydrodynamics-; MED,-Messina-Strait
CL: The-Physical-Environment:-TSD-distribution,-water-masses-and-circulation-1146; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 1599693

                                                                      5 of 309
TI: Behavior of the surface gravity wave spectrum on a horizontally nonuniform current.
AU: Lavrenov,-I.V.
AF: Leningrad Branch, State Oceanogr. Inst., Leningrad, USSR
SO: IZV.-ATMOS.-OCEAN.-PHYS. 1986. vol. 22, no. 5, pp. 398-402
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The evolution of the frequency-angle spectrum to horizontally inhomogeneous nonsteady currents and with variable basin depth is described in the geometrical optics approximation. Transformation of the wave spectrum parameters is studied in detail on a countercurrent that is increasing, taking blocking into account. It is shown that on an inhomogeneous current the blocking point in the general case does not match the point of transition from direct to reverse waves. The spectral relation obtained in this paper generalizes the earlier results of Longuet-Higgins; Stuart, and others. This paper also describes qualitatively how waves breaking in the countercurrent affect the spectrum.
DE: surface-gravity-waves; wave-spectra; wave-current-interaction; countercurrents-; wave-breaking; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1589060

                                                                      6 of 309
TI: Stability and wave transmission response of stone- and dolos-armored rubble-mound breakwater trunks subjected to extreme wave heights.
AU: Carver,-R.D.; Dubose,-W.G.
CA: Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: 1986. 94 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A174 437/4/GAR.
RN: CERC-TR-86-10 (CERCTR8610)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: The purpose of the investigation was to obtain design information for stone and dolos armor used on breakwaters trunks and subjected to breaking and nonbreaking waves that exceeded the recommended design wave heights. Based on test results in which dolos and stone armor were used on breadwater trunks and subjected to nonbreaking waves in a d/L range of 0.10 to 0.25 and breaking waves in a d/L range of 0.04 to 0.14, the direction of wave approach was 90 deg, and the structures were initially designed for no overtopping, it was concluded that: Structures built to a 1V:1.5H slope generally tended to experience higher damage levels than those constructed on a 1V:2H slope, and transmitted wave heights observed one-half and one wavelength behind the breakwaters were very similar.
DE: rubblemound-breakwaters; design-; wave-forces; wave-height; performance-assessment; construction-materials; stability-
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1588820

                                                                      7 of 309
TI: On aerosol production and enrichment by breaking wind waves.
AU: Kerman,-B.R.
AF: Boundary-Layer Res. Div., Atmos. Environ. Serv., 4905 Dufferin St., Downsview, Ont. M3H 5T4, Canada
SO: ATMOSPHERE-OCEAN. 1986. vol. 24, no. 4, pp. 329-345
IS: ISSN 0705-5900
NT: Incl. bibliogr.: 53 ref.
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article); Z (Bibliography)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A model is presented for the production and enrichment of aerosols. Bubbles distributed in size by fragmentation scavenge particles and transport them to the surface. In the collapse process at the surface the bubble's skin is enveloped into the ejected aerosol leading to significant enrichment. For no mass accumulation at the surface in foam the flux due to scavenging equals that for resuspension leading to an estimate of the enrichment. The model results compare favourably with observations of artificial and wind-generated enrichment if it is assumed that during the scavenging the bubble's clean and mobile surface during the initial stages collects most of its particle load.
DE: mathematical-models; aerosols-; wind-waves; surface-chemistry; whitecaps-; physical-oceanography; air-pollution
ID: bursting-bubbles
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Pollution:-Characteristics,-behavior-and-fate-2445; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1586715

                                                                      8 of 309
TI: Wave energy and intertidal productivity.
AU: Leigh,-E.G.,Jr.; Paine,-R.T.; Quinn,-J.F.; Suchanek,-T.H.
AF: Smithsonian Trop. Res. Inst., Apdo. 2072, Balboa, Panama
SO: PROC.-NATL.-ACAD.-SCI.-USA. 1987. vol. 84, no. 5, pp. 1314-1318
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In the northeastern Pacific, intertidal zones of th most wave-beaten shores receive more energy from breaking waves than from the sun. Despite severe mortality from winter storms, communities at some wave-beaten sites produce an extraordinary quantity of dry matter per unit area of shore per year. At wave-beaten sites of Tatoosh Island, WA, sea palms, Postelsia palmaeformis , can produce > 10 kg of dry matter, or 1.5 x 10 super(8) J, per m super(2) in a good year. Extraordinarily productive organism such as Postelsia) are restricted to wave-beaten sites. Intertidal organisms cannot transform wave energy into chemical energy, as photosynthetic plants transform solar energy, nor can intertidal organisms "harness" wave energy.
DE: USA,-Washington,-Tatoosh-I.; Postelsia-palmaeformis; waves-; energetics-; productivity-; primary-production; plant-populations; wave-effects; intertidal-environment; INW,-USA,-Washington,-Tatoosh-I.
CL: Productivity,-Ecosystems,-Species-Interactions:-Productivity-1481
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 1579488

                                                                      9 of 309
TI: Limitation of random waves by depth.
OT: Limitation des houles aleatoires par la profondeur
AU: Rouch,-F.; Canel,-M.
AF: Sogreah, 38000 Grenoble, France
CO: 129. Session du Comite Technique de la Societe Hydrotechnique de France, Paris (France), 12 Jun 1986
SO: SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDROTECHNICS.-TODAY'-S-RESEARCH-AND-CONJECTURES-FOR-THE-FUTURE-OF-MARITIME-HYDRAULICS..  COLLOQUE-D'-HYDROTECHNIQUE.-ACTUALITE-ET-AVENIR-DE-L'-HYDRAULIQUE-MARITIME.- Societe-Hydrotechnique,-Paris-France.-Com.-Technique1986. no. 4-5 pp. 359-362
IS: ISSN 0018-6368
ST: HOUILLE-BLANCHE. no. 4-5
PY: 1986
LA: French
LS: German; English; Spanish; French
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: After breaking, the histogram of wave heights no longer follows Rayleigh's distribution. The communication is based on two models, one concerning a large breakwater which reflects waves, and the other a water intake at sea presenting an obstacle of restricted dimensions in relation to the sheet of water where the waves propagate. After having described the installations used for studies, the methods of generation, measurement and analysis of waves, the results obtained are given as regards the limitation of significant wave height, the modification of histogram of wave heights through breaking, as well as the recommendations concerning the predimensioning and studies of works.
DE: scale-models; breakwaters-; wave-height; swell-; wave-amplitude; random-processes; design-; offshore-structures; water-depth; mathematical-models; wave-reflection; wave-breaking
ID: water-intakes
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-General-2321; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1563823

                                                                     10 of 309
TI: Stresses on a water intake at sea comprising three emerging towers.
OT: Efforts sur une prise d'eau en mer comportant trois tours emergeantes. Essais en bassin a houle aleatoire
AU: Canel,-M.; Barailler,-L.
AF: Sogreah, 38000 Grenoble, France
CO: 129. Session du Comite Technique de la Societe Hydrotechnique de France, Paris (France), 12 Jun 1986
SO: SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDROTECHNICS.-TODAY'-S-RESEARCH-AND-CONJECTURES-FOR-THE-FUTURE-OF-MARITIME-HYDRAULICS..  COLLOQUE-D'-HYDROTECHNIQUE.-ACTUALITE-ET-AVENIR-DE-L'-HYDRAULIQUE-MARITIME.- Societe-Hydrotechnique,-Paris-France.-Com.-Technique1986. no. 4-5 pp. 325-330
IS: ISSN 0018-6368
ST: HOUILLE-BLANCHE. no. 4-5
PY: 1986
LA: French
LS: German; English; Spanish; French
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The study relating to the water intake of a nuclear power station in the Tyrrhenian Sea, comprising a platform and three towers, has been carried out on a scale model with random breaking waves. The Pierson-Moskowitz and Jonswap spectrums have been reproduced and the overall stresses and pressures on the structure, as well as the linking stresses between the towers and the platform, have been measured. The measurement equipment comprised capacitive sensors, a six component scale and darts for the embedding of towers in the platform, with digitalized acquisition and computerized processing. The study has made it possible to assess the overall stability of the works and the safety factor.
DE: stress-; nuclear-power-plants; scale-models; wave-breaking; structures-; towers-; wave-forces; pressure-; MED,-Tyrrhenian-Sea; wave-spectra; stability-
ID: water-intakes
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-General-2321
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 1563743

                                                                     11 of 309
TI: Bubble clouds and temperature anomalies in the upper ocean.
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.; Hall,-A.J.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., The University, Southhampton SO9 5NH, UK
SO: NATURE. 1987. vol. 328, no. 6125, pp. 48-51
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The authors report results from a towed instrument used to measure simultaneously water temperature and the sound scattered from bubble clouds produced by breaking waves. Dominant features in the records are correlated, intense sound scattering (or bubble clouds) being associated with warmer water and large positive temperature gradients with the onset of increased scattering. The observations provide a more complete picture of the structure and nature of bubble clouds and establish their association with dynamical processes of turbulent diffusion in the upper ocean boundary layer.
DE: breaking-waves; bubbles-; temperature-gradients; sound-scattering; surface-properties; turbulent-diffusion
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1554533

                                                                     12 of 309
TI: Observed statistics of breaking ocean waves.
AU: Holthuijsen,-L.H.; Herbers,-T.H.C.
AF: Delft Univ. Technol., Dep. Civ. Eng., P.O. Box 5048, 2600 GA Delft, Netherlands
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 431-436
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Observations have been made of the occurrence of breaking waves at sea and their parameters to check the suitability of commonly used breaking wave criteria. Analysis of the populations of breaking and non-breaking waves indicates that seemingly obvious parameters such as wave steepness or wave asymmetry cannot be used to distinguish between breaking waves and non-breaking waves.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-properties; parameterization-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1525971

                                                                     13 of 309
TI: Experimental study on turbulence structures under spilling breakers.
AU: Hattori,-M.; Aono,-T.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Chuo Univ., Kasuga 1-13-27, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 112, Japan
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 419-424
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Turbulence structures under spilling breakers were examined by experimental results obtained from simultaneous measurements of the water surface elevation and fluid velocities, and from flow visualizations. Surface-generated turbulence contributes greatly to nonstationary and intermittency in the turbulence structure, and to formation of vortex-like motions around the border zone between the outer and inner regions.
DE: breaking-waves; spilling-waves; sea-surface; turbulence-; vortices-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1525940

                                                                     14 of 309
TI: The vertical structure of turbulence beneath gently breaking wind waves.
AU: Terray,-E.A.; Bliven,-L.V.
AF: Dep. Ocean Eng., Woods Hole Oceanogr. Inst., Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 395-400
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The authors present a preliminary analysis of the turbulence energy budget beneath gently breaking laboratory wind-waves. A linear filtration procedure is employed to separate the wave-induced and turbulent motions. The data show a single Kolmogorov inertial subrange, and are consistent with observations in the outer layer of a wall-bounded shear flow. However, the turbulent velocity is more intermittent close to the surface than would be expected on the basis of this analogy.
DE: wind-waves; wave-breaking; eddy-kinetic-energy; turbulent-diffusion; vertical-profiles
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1525777

                                                                     15 of 309
TI: Doppler spectra of microwave radar echo returned from calm and rough sea surfaces.
AU: Shibata,-A.; Uji,-T.; Isozaki,-I.; Nakamura,-K.; Awaka,-J.
AF: Meteorol. Res. Inst., Tsukuba 305, Japan
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 263-268
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The returns of C band ( lambda  = 5.6cm) Doppler radar of horizontal polarization whose beam is directed to Kashima Nada near grazing angles are investigated. On the sea surface there is a variety of water waves, such as capillary waves, wind waves, and swell, which have their own velocities of several tens of cm/s to several m/s respectively. The scatterer's velocity measured with Doppler radar is helpful to classify scatterers. In most cases the velocities of the scatterers on the sea surface measured with Doppler radar are enough large as compared with phase velocities of capillary waves. Those velocities appear to be about phase velocities of wind waves and swell. Then the sea echoes of the radar are discussed, relating to the breaking waves.
DE: Doppler-effect; radar-; surface-water-waves; echo-surveys; wave-velocity; Doppler-radar
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1525338

                                                                     16 of 309
TI: Tsunamis: The response of harbors with sloping boundaries to long wave excitation.
AU: Zelt,-J.A.
CA: California Inst. of Technology, Pasadena (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1987. vol. 47, no. 7, 337 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D.: Order No. FAD DA8623964.
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The influence of sloping boundaries on the long wave response of bays and harbors is studied in this work. Laboratory experiments are performed to help validate the theoretical analysis which is applicable to nonbreaking waves. An analytical harbor response model, capable of treating narrow rectangular harbors with variable bathymetry and sidewall geometry, is developed and applied to several simple geometries. The model shows that for a given harbor length and entrance width, the resonant frequencies and the response of a harbor are very dependent on the harbor sidewall geometry and bathymetry. Laboratory experiments were performed to determine the long wave response a narrow rectangular harbor whose still water depth decreases linearly between the harbor entrance and the shoreline. Good agreement with the finite element model was obtained, including the prediction of the depression of the mean water level within the harbor. A three-dimensional application of the finite element model treats the runup of solitary waves on a coastline with variable bottom topography and a curved shoreline. The results indicate that the model can predict the trapping of wave energy along a sloping coastal margin, a process of fundamental importance for predicting potential tsunami damage.
DE: tsunamis-; harbor-oscillations; bottom-topography; breaking-waves; wave-effects; mathematical-models; bays-; shallow-water-waves; prediction-; finite-element-method
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Warning-services-against-catastrophes-2392
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1525285

                                                                     17 of 309
TI: On the hydrodynamics of small-scale breaking waves and their microwave reflectivity properties.
AU: Banner,-M.L.; Fooks,-E.H.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. New South Wales, Kensington, N.S.W. 2033, Australia
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 245-248
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This contribution is aimed at advancing our understanding of local microwave reflectivity properties of small-scale breaking water waves, a widespread feature of the wind-driven sea surface. In this contribution a detailed laboratory study of the disturbances generated in the breaking zones of short breaking gravity waves is summarized. The response of microwaves to these hydrodynamic disturbances was investigated at X-Band, for which large local reflected power coherent with the disturbances was found. The wavenumber structure of the breaking zone disturbances was found to be consistent with Bragg scattering. It is concluded that further investigation is warranted of the contribution to the backscattered cross-section of the small-scale breaking wave components on the sea surface in order to improve understanding of the relationship between radar backscatter and the desired sea surface properties of interest such as the wind-stress vector and ocean wave spectrum.
DE: breaking-waves; wind-driven-circulation; microwaves-; reflectance-; hydrodynamics-
CL: Underwater-Optics:-Optical-properties-2223
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1525259

                                                                     18 of 309
TI: Spectrum of breaking waves in deep water.
AU: Tung,-C.C.; Huang,-N.E.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., North Carolina State Univ., Raleigh, NC 27695, USA
SO: J.-ENG.-MECH. 1987. vol. 113, no. 3, pp. 293-302
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The effect of wave breaking on wave spectra is examined. The Stokes wave breaking criterion is extended to random waves of finite bandwidth. The original, ideal waves are assumed to be stationary, zero-mean, and Gaussian. A simple approximate expression for breaking wave spectra is derived. Numerical results are given in graphical form to show the changes in wave spectra due to wave breaking.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-spectra; deep-water; Stokes-waves; equations-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1525019

                                                                     19 of 309
TI: Factors determining acoustical properties of the ocean subsurface layer affected by wind wave activity.
AU: Glazman,-R.E.
CA: Rhode Island Univ., Kingston (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1986. vol. 47, no. 5, 137 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D.: Order No. FAD DA8609880.
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The purpose of this work is to investigates physical and physicochemical processes determining acoustical properties of the breaking-wave (BW)-affected layer of the ocean (the upper 10 m layer), and to advance the knowledge of environmental effects governing small-scale air-sea exchange controlled by BW activity. The major components of this multidisciplinary research are: study of sea surface statistical geometry as related to occurrence of wave groups and steep waves, and as required for prediction of sound scattering by a randomly rough sea surface; mathematical modelling of BW statistics as related to temporal and spatial distribution of BW-induced bubble swarms; theoretical investigation of the complex sound speed in bubbly water as affected by various processes leading to sound attenuation and sound speed decrease.
DE: breaking-waves; mixed-layer; air-sea-interaction; air-bubbles; acoustic-properties; subsurface-water; wave-groups; wave-steepness; sea-state; sound-attenuation; sound-velocity; sound-scattering; prediction-; wind-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1524987

                                                                     20 of 309
TI: Mathematical modeling of breaking wave statistics.
AU: Glazman,-R.E.
AF: Grad. Sch. Oceanogr., Univ. Rhode Island, Narragansett, RI 02882, USA
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 145-150
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The breaking wave criterion concept is briefly reviewed and a general approach to parametrizing statistics of steep waves is formulated based on the theory of random field's high overshoots. Although no preliminary limitations are imposed on the wave spectrum width, some partial averaging of the original field is found necessary. An averaging procedure is then introduced, which yields an effective solution to the problem of high-order spectral moments.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-steepness; wave-spectra; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1524943

                                                                     21 of 309
TI: Spectral characteristics of breaking waves.
AU: Phillips,-O.M.
AF: Dep. Earth and Planet. Sci., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218, USA
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 111-123
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In the equilibrium range of wind-generated waves, it is postulated that the processes of energy (or action) input from the wind, loss by wave breaking and net transfer by non-linear resonant wave interactions are of comparable importance throughout the range. Consideration of the action spectral density balance then indicates that the wave-number spectrum in this range is proportional to (cos  Phi ) super(1/2) u sub(*) g super(-1/2) k super(-7/2), where  Phi  is the angle between the wind and the wave-number k@d approximately equals , and the frequently spectrum is of the form found empirically by Toba (1973), namely u sub(*) g  sigma  super(-4). These forms have also been derived by Kitaigorodskii (1983) though on a quite different physical basis. The spectral rate of energy loss by wave breaking is found to be proportional to (cos  Phi ) super(3/2) u sub(*) super(3) k super(-2) and the spectral rate of momentum loss from the waves to (cos  Phi ) super(5/2) g super(-1/2) u sub(*) super(3) k super(-3/2).
DE: wind-waves; breaking-waves; wave-spectra; waveform-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1524806

                                                                     22 of 309
TI: Numerical and experimental analysis of nonlinear deformation of ocean waves on 2-D and 3-D sandbars.
AU: Hino,-T.; Miyata,-H.; Kajitani,-H.
AF: Ship Res. Inst., Shinkawa 6-Chome, Mitaka, Tokyo 181, Japan
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 65-70
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The finite-difference method for the Navier-Stokes equations is applied to the problems of nonlinear deformation of ocean waves on sandbars and wave breaking in front of an advancing floating body.
DE: finite-difference-method; Navier-Stokes-equations; wave-breaking; sand-bars; deformation-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1524658

                                                                     23 of 309
TI: Wave breaking and nonlinear instability coupling.
AU: Su,-M.-Y.; Green,-A.W.
AF: Nav. Ocean Res. and Dev. Act., (NORDA) NSTL, MS 39529, USA
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 31-38
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Experimental results are presented that show evidence of strong coupling between two different types of instabilities for finite-amplitude surface gravity waves in deep water. A consequence of this coupling is the three-dimensional, crescent-shaped breaking waves of wave trains and wave packets with the initial wave steepness (a sub(o)k sub(o)) as low as 0.12. A second consequence is to provide a new mechanism for observed energy dissipation and directional energy spreading during evolution of waves when about 0.14  less than or equal to  a sub(o)k sub(o)  less than or equal to  0.18, corresponding to the most commonly observed wave steepness during the rapid growth stages of wind-generated ocean waves.
DE: wave-breaking; finite-amplitude-waves; surface-gravity-waves; deep-water; instability-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1524600

                                                                     24 of 309
TI: A new way to calculate steep gravity waves.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,-M.S.
AF: Dep. Appl. Math. and Theor. Phys., Univ. Cambridge, Silver St., Cambridge CB3 9EW, UK
CO: Symposium on Wave Breaking, Turbulent Mixing and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface, Sendai (Japan), 19-25 Jul 1984
SO: THE-OCEAN-SURFACE:-WAVE-BREAKING,-TURBULENT-MIXING-AND-RADIO-PROBING. Toba,-Y.;Mitsuyasu,-H.-eds. 1985. pp. 1-15
IS: ISBN 90-277-2021-5
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A simple and efficient way to calculate steep gravity waves is described, which avoids the use of power series expansions or integral equations. The method exploits certain relations between the coefficients in Stokes's expansion which were discovered by the author in 1978. The method yields naturally the critical wave steepnesses for bifurcation of regular waves into non-uniform steady waves. Moreover, truncation of the series after only two terms yields a simple model for Class 2 bifurcation. The analysis can be used to discuss the stability of steep gravity waves and to derive new integral relations. Particularly relevant to breaking waves are some new relations for the angular momentum. The level of action y sub(a) for a limiting wave can also be expressed in terms of the Fourier coefficients.
DE: gravity-waves; wave-steepness; mathematical-models; methodology-; Fourier-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1524527

                                                                     25 of 309
TI: Interference effects on breaking wave forces on rows of vertical cylinders.
AU: Apelt,-C.J.; Piorewicz,-J.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Queensland, Qld., Australia
CO: 1. Australasian Port, Harbour and Offshore Engineering Conference 1986, Sydney, N.S.W. (Australia), 29 Sep-2 Oct 1986
SO: 1.-AUSTRALASIAN-PORT,-HARBOUR-AND-OFFSHORE-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE. Institution-of-Engineers,-Barton,-A.C.T.-Australia.-Coll.-Civ.-Eng 1986. pp. 191-195
IS: ISBN 0-85825-311-9
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Many offshore structures are supported on groups of cylindrical piles and it is important to be able to assess the effects of the interaction from neighbouring piles on the breaking wave forces on any one pile. Model experiments have been carried out in a wave tank with two different cylinder diameters, D = 0.102 m and 0.153 m, for 2 and 3 cylinders in a row situated in the breaking wave zone in orientations parallel and normal to wave propagation. The results indicate influence of the gap and of the wave steepness for wave approach normal to the row of cylinders and of the wave steepness only for parallel wave approach.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-forces; piles-; offshore-structures; coastal-structures
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1486443

                                                                     26 of 309
TI: Flow characteristics of 2-dimensional sub-breaking waves.
AU: Mori,-K.-H.; Doi,-Y.
AF: Fac. Eng., Hiroshima Univ., Saijo Higashi-Hiroshima 724, Japan
CO: Int. Symp. on Refined Flow Modelling and Turbulence Measurement, Iowa City, IA (USA), 16-18 Sep 1985
SO: TURBULENCE-MEASUREMENTS-AND-FLOW-MODELING. Chen,-C.J.;Chen,-L.-D.;Holly,-F.M.,Jr.-eds. 1987. pp. 69-78
PY: 1987
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
AB: 2-Dimensional waves generated by a submerged wing are studied experimentally to make clear the mechanism of sub-breaking waves. It is a kind of a turbulent free-surface flow taking place around wave crests. It takes place after a sudden increase of the wave slope. There is a maximum crest angle for its occurrence. Its appearance brings forth a velocity defected layer with a significant turbulence intensity beneath the free-surface. Discussions are made on the conditions for its appearance.
DE: ship-motion; turbulent-flow; drag-
ID: sub-breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1469526

                                                                     27 of 309
TI: Statistical characteristics of breaking waves.
AU: Yuan,-Y.; Tung,-C.C.; Huang,-N.E.
CO: Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Symposium, Miami, FL (USA), 13-20 May 1981
SO: WAVE-DYNAMICS-AND-RADIO-PROBING-OF-THE-OCEAN-SURFACE.-PROCEEDINGS-OF-A-SYMPOSIUM-HELD-MAY-13-20,-1981,-MIAMI,-FLORIDA,-SPONSORED-BY-THE-INTER-UNION-COMMISSION-ON-RADIO-METEOROLOGY. Phillips,-O.M.;Hasselmann,-K.-eds. 1986. pp. 265-272
PY: 1986
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
DE: breaking-waves; wave-dynamics; statistical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1462062

                                                                     28 of 309
TI: On microwave scattering by breaking waves.
AU: Wetzel,-L.
CO: Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Symposium, Miami, FL (USA), 13-20 May 1981
SO: WAVE-DYNAMICS-AND-RADIO-PROBING-OF-THE-OCEAN-SURFACE.-PROCEEDINGS-OF-A-SYMPOSIUM-HELD-MAY-13-20,-1981,-MIAMI,-FLORIDA,-SPONSORED-BY-THE-INTER-UNION-COMMISSION-ON-RADIO-METEOROLOGY. Phillips,-O.M.;Hasselmann,-K.-eds. 1986. pp. 273-284
PY: 1986
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
DE: breaking-waves; microwave-radar; backscatter-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1462054

                                                                     29 of 309
TI: Measurements of breaking waves: Implications for wind-stress and wave generation.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,-M.S.; Smith,-N.D.
CO: Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Symposium, Miami, FL (USA), 13-20 May 1981
SO: WAVE-DYNAMICS-AND-RADIO-PROBING-OF-THE-OCEAN-SURFACE.-PROCEEDINGS-OF-A-SYMPOSIUM-HELD-MAY-13-20,-1981,-MIAMI,-FLORIDA,-SPONSORED-BY-THE-INTER-UNION-COMMISSION-ON-RADIO-METEOROLOGY. Phillips,-O.M.;Hasselmann,-K.-eds. 1986. pp. 257-264
PY: 1986
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
DE: breaking-waves; wave-measurement; wind-stress; wave-generation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1461889

                                                                     30 of 309
TI: Advances in breaking-wave dynamics.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,-M.S.
CO: Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Symposium, Miami, FL (USA), 13-20 May 1981
SO: WAVE-DYNAMICS-AND-RADIO-PROBING-OF-THE-OCEAN-SURFACE.-PROCEEDINGS-OF-A-SYMPOSIUM-HELD-MAY-13-20,-1981,-MIAMI,-FLORIDA,-SPONSORED-BY-THE-INTER-UNION-COMMISSION-ON-RADIO-METEOROLOGY. Phillips,-O.M.;Hasselmann,-K.-eds. 1986. pp. 209-230
PY: 1986
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
DE: breaking-waves; wave-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1461881

                                                                     31 of 309
TI: Observation of breaking ocean waves with coherent microwave radar.
AU: Keller,-W.C.; Plant,-W.J.; Valenzuela,-G.R.
CO: Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Symposium, Miami, FL (USA), 13-20 May 1981
SO: WAVE-DYNAMICS-AND-RADIO-PROBING-OF-THE-OCEAN-SURFACE.-PROCEEDINGS-OF-A-SYMPOSIUM-HELD-MAY-13-20,-1981,-MIAMI,-FLORIDA,-SPONSORED-BY-THE-INTER-UNION-COMMISSION-ON-RADIO-METEOROLOGY. Phillips,-O.M.;Hasselmann,-K.-eds. 1986. pp. 285-293
PY: 1986
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
DE: breaking-waves; microwave-imagery; radio-oceanography; wave-measurement
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1461837

                                                                     32 of 309
TI: An estimate of the influence of breaking waves on the dynamics of the upper ocean.
AU: Huang,-N.E.
CO: Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface. Symposium, Miami, FL (USA), 13-20 May 1981
SO: WAVE-DYNAMICS-AND-RADIO-PROBING-OF-THE-OCEAN-SURFACE.-PROCEEDINGS-OF-A-SYMPOSIUM-HELD-MAY-13-20,-1981,-MIAMI,-FLORIDA,-SPONSORED-BY-THE-INTER-UNION-COMMISSION-ON-RADIO-METEOROLOGY. Phillips,-O.M.;Hasselmann,-K.-eds. 1986. pp. 295-313
PY: 1986
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
DE: breaking-waves; upper-ocean; surface-circulation; dynamical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1461823

                                                                     33 of 309
TI: On the turbulent mechanism for the formation of fine structure in the ocean.
AU: Benilov,-A.Y.
AF: USSR Acad. Sci., Inst. Oceanol., USSR
SO: IZV.-ATMOS.-OCEAN.-PHYS. 1985. vol. 21, no. 9, pp. 748-753
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The problem of the formation of quasihomogeneous layers in a linearly stratified fluid by turbulence is examined. Equations of the semiempirical theory of turbulence are used. An integral method is used to solve the problem. Five development regimes for turbulent layers, which differ in terms of the value of the Richardson number and in terms of the initial conditions for excitation of turbulent mixing, are obtained. The generation of turbulence is accomplished both by the background velocity shear (and convection in the presence of unstable stratification) as well as by breaking of the internal waves (this is modeled by an instantaneous concentrated source of turbulent energy). Rules are given for the evolution of turbulence in the presence of various initial and background conditions. Some estimates are given for actual ocean conditions.
DE: turbulence-; turbulent-diffusion; vertical-profiles; thickness-; stratification-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1456227

                                                                     34 of 309
TI: Model for offshore sediment transport.
AU: Stive,-M.J.F.; Batties,-J.A.
CA: Waterloopkunding Lab. te Delft (Netherlands)
CO: 19. International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, TX (USA), 3-7 Sep 1984
SO: PUBL.-WATERLOOPKUNDIG-LAB.-DELFT. 1985. 22 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: PB86-220845/GAR.
RN: PUB-340 (PUB340)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Observation of the two-dimensional breaking of random waves on a beach suggests that under conditions of active surf an important mechanism in the process of offshore sediment transport is the transport by the undertow or return flow, induced by the breaking of waves. A laboratory verification is made based on measurements of both the dynamics of the water motion and the bottom profile. Finally, a realistic equilibrium state is shown to result from the model.
DE: sediment-transport; beaches-; coastal-morphology; mathematical-models; transport-processes; nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Methods-and-instruments-2262
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1455879

                                                                     35 of 309
TI: Wave forces on intertidal organisms: A case study.
AU: Denny,-M.W.
AF: Hopkins Mar. Stn., Pacific Grove, CA 93950, USA
SO: LIMNOL.-OCEANOGR. 1985. vol. 30, no. 6, pp. 1171-1187
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking waves impose large forces on intertidal organisms, and these forces are important in structuring wave-swept communities. Here a telemetry system is used to continuously record wave forces at an exposed site; the interpretation of one such record is presented as a case study of the nature of wave forces. For waves with a breaking height of 2-4 m, water velocities of at least 8 m s super(-1) and accelerations of at least 400 m s super(-2) are present near the substratum. The forces imposed on organisms by these flows depend on the size and shape of the organism. For a limpet (Collisella pelta ) an average force is about 0.6 N, a maximum about 3 N. The magnitude and direction of wave forces are unpredictable in both time and space over periods of seconds to hours, although predictability is possible over longer priods. A quantitative exposure index, base on an organism's ability to withstand wave forces, shows that various organisms exposed to the same flow are at widely waying risks. No impact forces were observed during this study.
DE: marine-organisms; community-structure; intertidal-environment; environmental-factors; waves-; wave-forces; intertidal-environment; population-structure; community-composition
CL: Autecology:-Environmental-effects-1422
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 1437684

                                                                     36 of 309
TI: The effect of breaking gravity waves on the dynamics and chemical composition of the mesosphere and lower thermosphere.
AU: Garcia,-R.R.; Solomon,-S.
AF: Natl. Cent. Atmos. Res., Boulder, CO, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-D-ATMOS.. 1985. vol. 90, no. D2, pp. 3850-3868
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The influence of breaking gravity waves on the dynamics and chemical composition of the 60- to 110-km region has been investigated with a two-dimensional dynamical/chemical model that includes a parameterization of gravity wave drag and diffusion. The momentum deposited by breaking waves at mesospheric altitudes reverses the zonal winds, drives a strong mean meridional circulation, and produces a very cold summer and warm winter mesopause, in general agreement with observations. The seasonal variations of the computed eddy diffusion coefficient are consistent with the behavior of mesospheric turbulence inferred from MST radar echoes. In particular, it is found that eddy diffusion is strong in summer and winter but much weaker at the equinoxes and that this seasonal behavior has important consequences for the distribution of chemical species.
DE: breaking-waves; gravity-waves; atmospheric-motion; atmospheric-chemistry; models-
CL: Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Structure,-mechanics-and-thermodynamics-2243; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1422153

                                                                     37 of 309
TI: Bottom shear stress, wave height and wave set-up under wave transformation.
AU: Nakazaki,-E.
CA: Hawaii Univ., Honolulu (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1986. vol. 46, no. 10, 159 pp
NT: Diss.: Ph.D. Order No.: FAD DA8528789.
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This study is concerned with the influence of wave transformation and bed shear stress on wave height and wave set-up. The ultimate goal is the prediction of wave height and mean water level in the nearshore zone. In order to develop such a predictive model, relevant empirical relationships were determined based on data measured during a two-dimensional hydraulic model study with a scale of 1:12 representing the Ala Moana reef on the south shore of Oahu, Hawaii. The bed shear stress was determined by direct measurements of wave forces on the bed and of fluid velocities near the bed under breaking waves and other highly nonlinear waves. The resulting friction factors are compared with the existing friction factor curve by Jonsson (1964), which was established under sinusoidal wave conditions. It is concluded that the new curve for wave height prediction is applicable in the entire nearshore region, even in the breaking zone, at least for slopes ranging from 0 to 1:34.
DE: bottom-stress; wave-height; wave-setup; coastal-zone
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Benthic-boundary-layer-2165; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1422106

                                                                     38 of 309
TI: The acoustic measurement of suspended sand in the surf-zone.
AU: Vincent,-C.E.; Hanes,-D.; Tamura,-T.; Clarke,-T.L.
AF: Sch. Environ. Sci., Univ. East Anglia, Norwich NR4 7TJ, UK
CO: International Conference on Measuring Techniques of Hydraulics Phenomena in Offshore, Coastal and Inland Waters, London (UK), 9-11 Apr 1986
SO: PAPERS-PRESENTED-AT-THE-INTERNATIONAL-CONFERENCE-ON-MEASURING-TECHNIQUES-OF-HYDRAULICS-PHENOMENA-IN-OFFSHORE,-COASTAL-AND-INLAND-WATERS.-LONDON,-ENGLAND:-9-11-APRIL,-1986. BHRA,-Fluid-Engineering-Center,-London-UK 1986. pp. 443-451
IS: ISBN 0-947711-120
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Techniques for measuring the profile of the concentration of suspended sand close to the sea-bed with a vertical resolution of about 1cm are discussed. A 3 MHz Acoustic Concentration Meter (ACM) which uses the intensity of back-scattered acoustic energy from the suspended sand is described. The ACM has been used to obtain data on suspended sand in the surf-zone ( similar to m depth) and in deeper water on the continental shelf ( similar to  10m). In the surf-zone the limitations of such profilometers are (a) the attenuation of the acoustic beam by high concentrations of suspended sand in the water column, (b) air bubbles injected into the water by breaking waves and (c) the variation in the sand size with height above the sea-bed. In deeper water outside the surf-zone only the third of the above limitations is important and accuracies of about a factor of two could be expected in the measurement of the suspended sand concentrations.
DE: sand-; suspended-load; surf-zone; acoustic-properties; backscatter-; measurement-
ID: acoustic-concentration-meter
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Methods-and-instruments-2202
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1419283

                                                                     39 of 309
TI: Frontiers in fluid mechanics: A collection of research papers written in commemoration of the 65th birthday of Stanley Corrsin.
AU: Davis,-S.; Lumley,-J.L.
CA: Sibley Sch. of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering, Ithaca, NY (USA)
SO: 1985. 298 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A165 139/7/GAR.
PY: 1985
LA: English
PT: R (Report); Z (Bibliography)
AB: Contents: On the Approach to Isotropy of Homogeneous Turbulence: Effect of the Partition of Kinetic Energy Among the Velocity Components; Random Incompressible Motion on Two and Three-Dimensional Lattices and its Application to the Walk on a Random Field: Transition and Turbulence in Fluid Flows and Low-Dimensional Chaos; Some Contribution of Two Point Closure to Turbulence; Intermittent Turbulent Flow; The Spectra of Single Reactants in Homogeneous Turbulence; The Dynamics of Turbulent Spots Spectral and Statistical Characteristics of Breaking Waves; How Do Drops Spread on Solids; Effects of Steamline Curvature of Turbulence; Limitations of Second Order Modeling of Passive Scalar Diffusion; and Acoustic Wave Propagation in Fluids.
DE: fluid-mechanics; fluid-flow; acoustics-; water-motion; diffusion-; bibliographies-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1360334

                                                                     40 of 309
TI: Estimation of sea-surface windspeed from whitecap cover: Statistical approaches compared empirically and by simulation.
AU: O'-Muircheartaigh,-I.G.; Gaver,-D.P.
CA: Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA (USA)
SO: REP.-U.S.-NAV.-POSTGRAD.-SCH. 1985. 59 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A159 816/8/GAR.
RN: NPS55-85-021 (NPS5585021)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this work, several statistical estimators for solving the typical remote sensing "inverse" problem are explained, illustrated and evaluated using both real data sets connecting surface windspeed and whitecap coverage and simulated data. The results suggest the superiority of some of these estimators.
DE: remote-sensing; wave-data; wind-data; wind-speed; breaking-waves; whitecapping-; statistical-analysis
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1360016

                                                                     41 of 309
TI: Coastal set-up and wave breaking.
AU: Bertotti,-L.; Cavaleri,-L.
AF: ASCO, Via B. Pellegrino, Padua, Italy
SO: OCEANOL.-ACTA. 1985. vol. 8, no. 2, pp. 237-242
IS: ISSN 0399-1784
PY: 1985
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A study of set-up was made possible by the availability of an interesting set of data. This included directional wave conditions and tide, as recorded at an offshore station, together with tidal recording close to the coast. Sharp discrepancies between the two groups of data were associated with the presence of waves running against the shore. The key point for modelling the phenomenon has been identified in the breaking wave. Various criteria have been tested and the results are discussed in the light of the physics involved.
DE: sea-level; wind-waves; breaking-waves; surface-water-waves; coastal-oceanography; directional-spectra
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Tides,-surges-and-sea-level-2167
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1359125

                                                                     42 of 309
TI: Adding teeth to wave action: The destructive effects of wave-borne rocks on intertidal organisms.
AU: Shanks,-A.L.; Wright,-W.G.
AF: Univ. North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Inst. Mar. Sci., 3407 Arendell St., Morehead City, NC 28577, USA
SO: OECOLOGIA. 1986. vol. 69, no. 3, pp. 420-428
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Observations in rocky intertidal areas domonstrate that breaking waves "throw" rocks and cobbles and that these missiles can damage and kill organisms. Targets in the intertidal were dented by impacts from wave-borne rocks. New dents/day in these targets was positively correlated with the daily maximum significant wave height and with new patches/day in aggregations of the barnacle Chthamalus fissus . Impact frequency was highest in the upper intertidal and varied dramatically between microhabitats on individual boulders (edges, tops and faces). These patterns were reflected in the microhabitat abundances of "old" and "young" barnacles. Comparisons were made of the survivorship and the frequency of shell damage in two populations of the limpet Lottia gigantea  living in habitats which differed primarily in the number of moveable rocks (i.e. potential projectiles). The mortality rate and frequency of shell damage were significantly higher in the projectilerich habitat. In addition only in this habitat did the frequency of shell damage covary significantly with seasonal periods of high surf.
DE: intertidal-environment; waves-; rocks-; marine-organisms; mortality-; disturbance-; habitat-; wave-forces; mortality-causes; rocky-shores; Chthamalus-fissus; Lottia-gigantea; INE,-USA,-California
ID: damage-
CL: Autecology:-Environmental-effects-1422
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 1336966

                                                                     43 of 309
TI: Shore singularity of water waves. Part 1. The local model.
AU: Meyer,-R.E.
CA: Wisconsin Univ. Madison (USA), Mathematics Research Cent
SO: TECH.-SUMM.-REP.-WIS.-UNIV.-MATH.-RES.-CENT. 1985. 36 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A163 707/3/GAR; Grant NSF-MCS82-15064.
RN: MRC-TSR-2872 (MRCTSR2872)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: The nonlinear equations governing inviscid water waves close to shore over beaches of small slope are discussed to elucidate their scope, limitations and ramifications. Their decisive feature is a singularity of the differential equations themselves, and to open the way for analysis, an associated problem is formulated in terms of singular wave equations. The emphasis is on the identification of the questions of oceanographical relevance that can be asked and the ways in which they can be posed to construct the basis for a correct, mathematical analysis and for its application to shoaling predictions (Part II).
DE: waves-on-beaches; shallow-water-waves; mathematical-models; wave-data; breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1334665

                                                                     44 of 309
TI: Shore singularity of water-wave theory. Part 2. Small waves don't break on gentle beaches.
AU: Meyer,-R.E.
CA: Wisconsin Univ., Madison (USA). Mathematics Research Cent
SO: TECH.-SUMM.-REP.-WIS.-UNIV.-MATH.-RES.-CENT. 1985. 27 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A163 652/1/GAR; Grant NSF-MCS82-15064.
RN: MRC-TSR-2873 (MRCTSR2873)
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: The model of gravitational surface waves on beaches of small slope formulated in and its mathematical theory are used to show how an incident-wave amplitude can be defined so that a bound on it guarantees solutions which respect the assumptions of the model everywhere and forever. The structure of those solutions far from shore is then compared with that predicted near shore by the classical, linear theory to remove the indeterminacies of both theories: Shore reflection is determined for the classical theory, and it is shown how the critical length scale and amplitude of the beach theory are related to the familiar wavelength and amplitude in deep water. These results indicate that the beach theory captures and elucidates the basic singularity structure underlying the shore behavior of gravitational surface waves.
DE: waves-on-beaches; breaking-waves; shallow-water-waves; wave-data; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1334405

                                                                     45 of 309
TI: Measurements of wind dependent acoustic transmission loss in shallow water under breaking wave conditions.
AU: Wille,-P.; Geyer,-D.
AF: Forschungsanst. Bundeswehr Wasserschall. und Geophys., Kalusdorfer Weg 2-24, Kiel, FRG
CO: 12. ICA Associated Symposium on Underwater Acoustics, Halifax, N.S. (Canada), 16-18 Jul 1986
SO: EXTENDED-ABSTRACTS-12th-ICA-ASSOCIATED-SYMPOSIUM-ON-UNDERWATER-ACOUSTICS;-CHATEAU-HALIFAX,-HALIFAX,-NOVA-SCOTIA,-CANADA,-16-18-JULY-1986. 1986. pp. 161-162
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The transmission loss measured at a fixed 10 km range and isothermal conditions rather depends on wind speed than on wave height. The attenuation coefficient, growing weakly at low wind speeds increases after a thresholdlike transition by the third to the fifth power of the wind speed, probably due to bubble layers. The transition wind speed around 10 m/s depends on the frequency. The time lag between changing wind speed and attenuation is of the order of minutes. The loss differs at increasing and decreasing fetch. The close relation between wave height and attenuation at low sea states and predominating rough boundary scattering disappears at high sea states.
DE: acoustics-; shallow-water; sound-transmission; breaking-waves; transmission-loss
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Reverberation-2204
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1317326

                                                                     46 of 309
TI: The impact load and pressure acting on the vertical circular cylinder.
AU: Takagi,-K.; Naito,-S.; Nakamura,-S.
AF: Dep. Nav. Archit., Osaka Univ., Osaka, Japan
CO: 5. International Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering (OMAE) Symposium, Tokyo (Japan), 13-18 Apr 1986
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIFTH-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-MECHANICS-AND-ARCTIC-ENGINEERING-OMAE-SYMPOSIUM.-VOLUME-1. Chung,-J.S.;Chakrabarti,-S.K.;Maeda,-H.;Jefferys,-R.E.-eds. 1986. pp. 242-249
RN: ASME 100194 (100194)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper presents a method to predict the magnitude of impact load and pressure induced by extreme large amplitude water waves on a vertical circular cylinder like a column of off-shore structures. The impact load and pressure are derived from momentum theory. The velocity distribution in wave field and the free surface elevation are obtained from a numerical method, so-called Boundary Element Method (BEM), for simulation of two-dimensional full nonlinear wave problem. The impact pressure is evaluated from particle velocities of incident waves. In order to confirm this method, experimental studies are carried out by generating extreme waves whose steepness is such that waves are close to breaking.
DE: cylindrical-structures; loads-forces; breaking-waves; pressure-; mathematical-models; offshore-structures; loading-; boundary-element-method; simulation-; hydrodynamics-
ID: circular-cylinders
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1250557

                                                                     47 of 309
TI: Impact force of breaking waves on an inclined pile.
AU: Tanimoto,-K.; Takahashi,-S.; Kaneko,-T.; Shiota,-K.
AF: Port and Harbour Res. Inst., Minist. Transp., Japan
CO: 5. International Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering (OMAE) Symposium, Tokyo (Japan), 13-18 Apr 1986
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIFTH-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-MECHANICS-AND-ARCTIC-ENGINEERING-OMAE-SYMPOSIUM.-VOLUME-1. Chung,-J.S.;Chakrabarti,-S.K.;Maeda,-H.;Jefferys,-R.E.-eds. 1986. pp. 235-241
RN: ASME 100194 (100194)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A practical calculation model is derived for the prediction of impact forces of breaking waves acting on an inclined circular pile on the basis of Goda's momentum theory. Experiments were conducted to investigate characteristics of breaking wave forces for various cases of pile inclination and of bottom slope. The results of the experiments indicate that total breaking wave forces perpendicular to the pile are greatly influenced by pile inclination and type of breaking waves. Dynamic responses of the force measurement system to wave impact forces were analyzed using the finite element method. The force measurement system has multiple degrees of freedom and its higher-order-vibration modes tend to respond strongly to the breaking wave impact forces. Magnitudes of impact forces calculated by the proposed model agree well with the measured data.
DE: piles-; wave-breaking; wave-forces; mathematical-models
ID: inclined-cylinders
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1250547

                                                                     48 of 309
TI: Nonlinear wave-induced forces on a shallowly submerged body.
AU: Miyata,-H.; Kajitani,-H.; Katsumata,-M.; Ishibashi,-F.
AF: Dep. Nav. Archit., Univ. Tokyo, Tokyo, Japan
CO: 5. International Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering (OMAE) Symposium, Tokyo (Japan), 13-18 Apr 1986
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FIFTH-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-MECHANICS-AND-ARCTIC-ENGINEERING-OMAE-SYMPOSIUM.-VOLUME-1. Chung,-J.S.;Chakrabarti,-S.K.;Maeda,-H.;Jefferys,-R.E.-eds. 1986. pp. 218-224
RN: ASME 100194 (100194)
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A MAC-type finite-difference method based on Navier-Stokes equations is developed and applied to the problem of wave-induced forces on a submerged body. The technique of simulating wave breaking motion is incorporated and turbulent effect is approximately considered so that the complicated fluid motion around a shallowly-submerged body is realistically simulated. The time-marching simulations with two shallowly-submerged bodies in regular incident waves show wave steepening, splitting, breaking and vortex generation on the bodies. The pressure on the body is seriously influenced by these nonlinear wave motions. A negative drifting force, which is one of the consequences of nonlinear wave motions, is explained with good agreement with experimental results.
DE: wave-forces; nonlinear-waves; submersible-platforms; mathematical-models; offshore-structures; finite-difference-method; simulation-; hydrodynamics-
ID: TUMMAC-Vbk-method
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1250524

                                                                     49 of 309
TI: On the probability of wave breaking in deep water.
AU: Spokosz,-M.A.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey GU8 5UB, UK
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1986. vol. 16, no. 2, pp. 382-385
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A simple analytic formula for the probability of wave breaking at a given point is derived on the basis of Gaussian statistics. The result is found to depend on a nondimensionalized variance of the sea surface acceleration and a threshold  alpha . This parameter determines those values of the downward acceleration at the crest (values greater than  alpha g,  alpha  positive) for which the wave is considered to be breaking. The results are related to other recent work on wave breaking and the choice of the parameter  alpha  is discussed.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; breaking-waves; deep-water; mathematical-models; prediction-
ID: sea-surface-acceleration
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1236397

                                                                     50 of 309
TI: Statistics of breaking waves observed as whitecaps in the open sea.
AU: Holthuijsen,-L.H.; Herbers,-T.H.C.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Delft Univ. Technol., Delft, Netherlands
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1986. vol. 16, no. 2, pp. 290-297
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Conventional observations of waves carried out with a buoy in open sea conditions were supplemented with simultaneous visual observations of whitecaps to identify breaking events in the buoy records. A statistical wave-by-wave analysis of these records indicates that such seemingly obvious parameters as wave steepness or wave asymmetry cannot be used to separate breakers from nonbreakers and that breaking occurs at wave steepness values much less than the theoretically expected steepness of a limiting wave. The observed fraction of breaking waves varied from about 0.10 to about 0.16, depending on wind speed. Two-thirds of the breaking waves were breaking in one-third of the wave groups for which a H sub(rms)-threshold definition was used.
DE: ocean-circulation; breaking-waves; data-buoys; surface-water-waves; wind-speed
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1236271

                                                                     51 of 309
TI: Internal solitons on the pycnocline: Generation, propagation, and shoaling and breaking over a slope.
AU: Kao,-T.W.; Pan,-F.-S.; Renouard,-D.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Catholic Univ. America, Washington, DC 20064, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1985. vol. 159, pp. 19-53
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In Part 1 a study is made of the internal solitary wave on the pycnocline of a continuously stratified fluid. A Korteweg--de Vries (KdV) equation for the "interfacial" displacement is developed following Benney's method for long nonlinear waves. Experiments were conducted in a long wave tank with the pycnocline at several different depths below the free surface, while keeping the total depth approximately constant. A step-like pool of light water, trapped behind a sliding gate, served as the initial disturbance condition. The number of solitons generated was verified to satisfy the prediction of inverse-scattering theory. In Part 2 of this study the authors investigate experimentally the evolution and breaking of an internal solitary wave as it shoals on a sloping bottom connecting the deeper region where the waves were generated to a shallower shelf region.
DE: fluid-mechanics; nonlinear-waves; internal-waves; solitary-waves; pycnocline-; stratified-flow; wave-breaking; slopes-topography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1231589

                                                                     52 of 309
TI: Wind-generated solitons: A potentially significant mechanism in ocean surface wave generation and surface scattering.
AU: Middleton,-D.; Hellen,-R.H.
AF: 127 E. 91 St., New York, NY 10128, USA
SO: IEEE-J.-OCEAN.-ENG. 1985. vol. OE-10, no. 4, pp. 471-476
NT: Special issue on Advances in Electromagnetic Remote Sensing of the Ocean.
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: It is proposed that wind-generated solitons (hydraulic "jumps"), moving nondispersively on the thin wind-driven drift layer of wind-excited (ocean) wave surfaces, are: Potentially significant in low-angle high-frequency (for example, X-band radar) scattering from such surfaces; and a plausible mechanism responsible for the observed anomalous (vis-a-vis conventional theory) large back-scatter returns in underwater acoustics when high frequencies and small grazing angles ( Phi  < 20 degree ) are employed, in the absence of significant near-surface bubble layers. When the local atmospheric conditions are such that significant bubble densities are created (principally by breaking waves), the resulting bubble layer will dominate and mask these solitons, in underwater acoustic scattering. They should remain effective at low angles and high frequencies in electromagnetic or radar scattering from above the surface, unless surface spray is heavy. A qualitative mixed linear-nonlinear model of ocean-wave generation is briefly described, a key element of which is the production of soliton ensembles. A variety of experimental data and evidence is cited and discussed in support of the proposed soliton mechanism.
DE: dynamical-oceanography; solitons-; wind-waves; surface-water-waves; sound-scattering; radar-; models-; backscatter-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1231185

                                                                     53 of 309
TI: Variations of the average wave level in the tidal zone in the presence of irregular wave conditions.
AU: Leont'-yev,-I.O.
AF: Shirshov Inst. Oceanol., USSR Acad. Sci., Moscow, USSR
SO: OCEANOL.-ACAD.-SCI.-USSR. 1984. vol. 24, no. 6, pp. 672-674
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method is suggested for calculating the average level in a tidal zone in the presence of irregular waves, breaking above a monotonically rising slope and also above a contour with an underwater arch. The calculation is based on using the momentum balance equation in the shore zone, obtained by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, and the model for transformation of irregular wave heights developed by the author. It is shown that the method provides satisfactory agreement with the data of laboratory experiments, and only one initital parameter of the waves--the depth at which breaking of the waves begins--needs to be known in order to implement this method.
DE: coastal-zone; wave-breaking; wave-amplitude; bottom-topography-effects; slopes-topography; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1199412

                                                                     54 of 309
TI: Overload bore propagation due to an overtopping wave.
AU: Cox,-J.C.; Machemehl,-J.
AF: ARCTEC, Inc., Columbia, MD, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1986. vol. 112, no. 1, pp. 161-163
PY: 1986
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Traditional theories explaining wave run-up and overtopping of a slope have been formulated in an attempt to define safe or acceptable design heights for coastal structures. However, to date no theory has been formulated to predict what happens to the overtopping wave once it has cleared the berm crest. This information is necessary in order to define a safe setback or ground clearance for buildings which might be located on a gravel island deck. The existing theories only provide the discharge onto the island at the point of overtopping. The authors formulation is a simplified first approximation of the character of the bore of water propagating from an overtopping wave.
DE: water-mass-intrusions; overtopping-; breaking-waves; berms-; backshore-
ID: overwash-; overload-bore-propagation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1199351

                                                                     55 of 309
TI: Wave and surf forecast model evaluation for use on a micro computer.
AU: Devendorf,-L.E.
CA: Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA (USA)
SO: 1985. 67 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A159 063/7/GAR; Master's thesis.
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A sea swell and surf model is implemented in BASIC, tested and evaluated on a micro computer (HP-9845B). The two-dimensional model includes spectral wind-wave generation in open water, and shallow water wave transformation over irregular topography. The model predicts surf zone width, breaker lines and types of breakers. Using change in momentum flux of gravity waves (radiation stress) as forcing, the model predicts current velocities within the surf zone. The model is evaluated for the conditions over constant depths and uniform sloping beaches. The numerical results are checked against accepted theory and field observations. The model results compare well with observed nearshore wave heights but give poor location of breaking waves.
DE: wave-height; wave-data; computer-programs; models-; gravity-waves; wave-forecasting
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1199328

                                                                     56 of 309
TI: On the highest periodic short-crested wave.
AU: Le-Mehaute,-B.
AF: Div. Appl. Mar. Phys., Rosenstiel Sch. Mar. and Atmos. Sci., Univ. Miami, Miami, FL 33149, USA
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1986. vol. 112, no. 2, pp. 320-332
PY: 1986
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The wave motion in the vertical planes containing the loci of free surface elevation peaks in a periodic short-crested wave, synthesized as the sum of two component waves, is exactly two-dimensional. It is shown that the linear and nonlinear theories that have been developed for long-crested two dimensional waves are valid for the wave motion of short-crested waves in the previously defined planes, provided that the wave height, H sub(c), defines the total vertical difference between peak and depression (instead of crest to trough as in the case of long-crested waves) and the wave length L sub(c) is the distance between peaks. It is also shown that the Stokes theory for limit waves is valid for short-crested waves and that the breaking criteria that are based on the Stokes theory are also applicable to short-crested waves, with a correction that is a function of the angle between the crests of the two primary wave components. The maximum possible free surface elevation of the peak of short-crested waves is then obtained for engineering applications.
DE: short-crested-waves; wave-height; wave-frequency
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1198878

                                                                     57 of 309
TI: The effect of bubbles formed by breaking wind waves on air-sea gas transfer.
AU: Alekseyev,-V.V.; Kokorin,-A.O.
AF: Moscow State Univ., Moscow, USSR
SO: IZV.-ATMOS.-OCEAN.-PHYS. 1984. vol. 20, no. 7, pp. 554-559
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: "Bubble" gas exchange between the ocean and the atmosphere--the solution of air bubbles formed on breaking of waves--is discussed. A numerical model was designed and used on the basis of observed data to calculate the gas fluxes under various hydrodynamic conditions. It was found that the profiles of the "bubble" oxygen and nitrogen fluxes may have maxima whose depths increase with increasing wind speed. The rate of decrease of the gas fluxes with depth depends strongly on the water-air temperature difference. The contribution of the "bubble" gas fluxes at depths of 50 cm and more to the total gas flux across the air-sea interface is estimated. The results of the study confirm observational data obtained in the wake of a tropical cyclone.
DE: breaking-waves; bubble-bursting; air-water-exchanges
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1170603

                                                                     58 of 309
TI: The effect of breaking gravity waves on the dynamics and chemical composition of the mesosphere and lower thermosphere.
AU: Garcia,-R.R.; Solomon,-S.
AF: Natl. Cent. Atmos. Res., Boulder, CO, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-D-ATMOS.. 1985. vol. 90, no. D2, pp. 3850-3868
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The influence of breaking gravity waves on the dynamics and chemical composition of the 60- to 110-km region has been investigated with a two-dimensional dynamical/chemical model that includes a parameterization of gravity wave drag and diffusion. The momentum deposited by breaking waves at mesospheric altitudes reverses the zonal winds, drives a strong mean meridional circulation, and produces a very cold summer and warm winter mesopause, in general agreement with observations. The seasonal variations of the computed eddy diffusion coefficient are consistent with the behavior of mesospheric turbulence inferred from MST radar echoes. In particular, it is found that eddy diffusion is strong in summer and winter but much weaker at the equinoxes and that this seasonal behavior has important consequences for the distribution of chemical species. Comparison between computed atomic oxygen and ozone, and the abundances of these constituents inferred from the 557.7-nm and 1.27- mu m airglow emission, reveals excellent agreement. The consistency between model results and these diverse types of observations lends strong support to the hypothesis that gravity waves play a very important role in determining the zonally averaged structure of the mesosphere and lower thermosphere.
DE: gravity-waves; breaking-waves; atmospheric-chemistry; atmospheric-physics
CL: Marine-Meteorology-and-Climatology:-Structure,-mechanics-and-thermodynamics-2243
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1129974

                                                                     59 of 309
TI: An experimental study on deformation of waves passing over a reef. 2.
OT: Asase jo o tsukasuru nami no henkei ni kansuru jikkenteki kenkyu. 2
AU: Nakayama,-A.; Yamamoto,-M.
AF: Natl. Res. Inst. Fish. Eng., Ebidai, Hasaki-machi, Kashima-gun, Ibaraki, 314-04, Japan
SO: TECH.-REP.-NATL.-RES.-INST.-FISH.-ENG.-AQUACULT.-FISH.-PORT.-SUIKOKEN-GIHO,-SUISANDOBOKU. 1985. no. 6, pp. 183-191
IS: ISSN 0389-2344
PY: 1985
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The process of waves transmitting over a reef, and the distribution of the mean water surface elevation on and around it are discussed. When waves break on a reef, the transmission ratio of transmitted wave height to the incident one depends upon only two dimensionless parameters: one is the ratio of incident waves height and reef depth, the other is the ratio of reef width to wave length. The increase in mean water surface elevation beyond a reef, generally called wave set-up, is caused by waves breaking on it, and the wave set-up is almost constant. It has been proved that wave set-up can be evaluated quantitatively by integrating a momentum equation.
DE: experimental-research; wave-breaking; wave-propagation; wave-setup; reefs-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1109970

                                                                     60 of 309
TI: Shoaling gravity waves: Comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model.
AU: Elgar,-S.; Guza,-R.T.
AF: Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., A-022, Univ. California, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1985. no. 158, pp. 47-70
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Observed statistics of non-breaking ocean-surface gravity waves shoaling between 4 and 1 m depths are compared with the predictions of linear finite-depth theory and a nonlinear model. The linear theory included effects of the directional distribution of energy within each frequency component. The nonlinear model is based on Boussinesq-type equations for a sloping bottom. Given initial conditions in 4 m depth, the nonlinear model more accurately predicts the evolution of energy spectra, coherence and phase speed between sensors, and lengths of runs of high waves that does the linear theory.
DE: gravity-waves; shoaling-waves; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1080968

                                                                     61 of 309
TI: Momentum flux in breaking waves.
AU: Melville,-W.K.; Rapp,-R.J.
AF: Massachusetts Inst. Technol., Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
SO: NATURE. 1985. vol. 317, no. 6037, pp. 514-516
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The authors present what they believe are the first well-controlled laboratory measurements of the momentum flux lost by wave breaking. These measurements are consistent with Mitsuyasu's hypothesis and recent measurements of wave growth, and support the conclusion that wave breaking plays an important role in momentum transfer across the air-sea interface.
DE: wave-breaking; momentum-transfer; air-water-interface
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1080777

                                                                     62 of 309
TI: Submarine pipelines: Practical considerations in their design and installation.
AU: Moss-Morris,-A.
AF: Candac Constr. (Pty) Ltd., P.O. Box 2827, Cape Town 8000, South Africa
CO: Pipeline Discharges of Effluents to the Sea (a workshop), Hermanus (South Africa), 24-26 May 1983
SO: PIPELINE-DISCHARGES-OF-EFFLUENTS-TO-THE-SEA.-PROCEEDINGS-OF-A-WORKSHOP-HELD-AT-HERMANUS,-SOUTH-AFRICA,-24-26-MAY-1983. Lord,-D.A.;Anderson,-F.P.;Basson,-J.K.-eds. South-African-Natl.-Comm.-on-Oceanographic-Research,-Pretoria-South-Africa 1984. no. 90 pp. 73-77
IS: ISBN 0-7988-3161-8
ST: S.-AFR.-NATL.-SCI.-PROGRAMMES-REP. no. 90
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The author limits his paper primarily to those pipelines which are carried some distance out to sea and whose diffusers are located way beyond the zone of breaking waves. Due to the probable scour and the very high forces occurring on a pipeline in the surf zone, it is common practice for rigid pipelines to endeavour to bury these below the level to which scour is likely to take place. This burial of the pipeline, particularly a rigid pipeline in the surf zone is an exceedingly expensive item and one accompanied by considerable harzard.
DE: outfalls-; pipelines-; pipe-laying; coastal-engineering; South-Africa; burying-; PSW,-South-Africa
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Pipelines-2325
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Westward (PSW)
AN: 1080458

                                                                     63 of 309
TI: Pipelines in the surf zone.
AU: Swart,-D.H.
AF: Natl. Res. Inst. Oceanol., P.O. Box 320, Stellenbosch 7600, South Africa
CO: Pipeline Discharges of Effluents to the Sea (a workshop), Hermanus (South Africa), 24-26 May 1983
SO: PIPELINE-DISCHARGES-OF-EFFLUENTS-TO-THE-SEA.-PROCEEDINGS-OF-A-WORKSHOP-HELD-AT-HERMANUS,-SOUTH-AFRICA,-24-26-MAY-1983. Lord,-D.A.;Anderson,-F.P.;Basson,-J.K.-eds. South-African-Natl.-Comm.-on-Oceanographic-Research,-Pretoria-South-Africa 1984. no. 90 pp. 68-72
IS: ISBN 0-7988-3161-8
ST: S.-AFR.-NATL.-SCI.-PROGRAMMES-REP. no. 90
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: It is normal practice to divide the nearshore zone into two areas when determining the elevation of an ocean outfall, namely, the breaker zone and the area seawards of it. It is customary to bury the pipeline to such an extent inside the breaker zone that its crest elevation is below the design lowest sea-bed level. Outside the breaker zone it is sufficient (according to the Town and Regional Planning Commission (South Africa, 1969)) to bury the pipeline in the sea bed to half the pipe diameter, provided that sandy conditions occur. The width of the breaker zone depends on the incident wave height and the sea-bed profile and can vary between virtually nothing and more than a kilometre. Typically the median width is of the other of a few hundred metres along the South African coastline.
DE: outfalls-; pipelines-; coastal-engineering; surf-zone; South-Africa; breaking-waves; PSW,-South-Africa; regional-planning
ID: site-selection; burying-
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Pipelines-2325
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Westward (PSW)
AN: 1080446

                                                                     64 of 309
TI: A note on the momentum transfer from wind to waves.
AU: Mitsuyasu,-H.
AF: Res. Inst. Appl. Mech., Kyushu Univ., Kasuga, Japan
CO: Practice of Physical Oceanography, College Station, TX (USA), Apr 1983
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1985. vol. 90, no. C2, pp. 3343-3345
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Momentum balance in the air-sea boundary process is discussed on the basis of a recent study. It is shown that the momentum transferred from wind to water surface goes largely into water waves when the steepness of the waves is large. For wind-generated waves, however, much of the momentum transferred from wind to waves is lost by wave breaking, and only a small amount is advected by the wind waves.
DE: momentum-transfer; wind-waves; wave-generation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1035870

                                                                     65 of 309
TI: Mechanical limits to size in wave-swept organisms.
AU: Denny,-M.W.; Daniel,-T.L.; Koehl,-M.A.R.
AF: Biol. Sci. Dep., Stanford Univ., Hopkins Mar. Stn., Pacific Grove, CA 93950, USA
SO: ECOL.-MONOGR. 1985. vol. 55, no. 1, pp. 69-102
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The total force imposed on an organism by breaking waves and postbreaking flows is due to both the water's velocity and its acceleration. The force due to velocity (a combined effect of drag and lift) increases in strict proportion to the organism's structural strength as the organism increases in size, and therefore cannot act as a mechanical limit to size. In contrast, the force due to the water's acceleration increases faster than the organism's structural strength as the organism grows, and thus constitutes a potential mechanical limit to its size. The authors incorporated this fact into a model that predicts the probability that an organism will be destroyed (by breakage or dislodgement)as a function of the organism's size, the organism's structural strength, the maximum water acceleration in each wave, the maximum water velocity at the time of maximum acceleration in each wave, and the probability of encountering waves with given flow parameters.
DE: intertidal-environment; benthos-; body-size; mathematical-models; wave-forces; environmental-impact
ID: waves-; relationship-
CL: Autecology:-Environmental-effects-1422
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 1031199

                                                                     66 of 309
TI: Influence of gas transfer on the CO sub(2) uptake by the ocean.
AU: Memery,-L.; Merlivat,-L.
AF: Lab. Geochim. Isot., Dep. Phys.-Chim., CEN/SACLAY, Gif-sur-Yvette, France
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1985. vol. 90, no. C4, pp. 7361-7366
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The most recent models dealing with CO sub(2) uptake by the ocean divide the ocean by latitude, but they do not take into account the influence of the different wind regimes on the CO sub(2) fluxes across the air-water interface. However, new gas exchange experiments run in wind tunnels have shown a great enhancement of the transfer velocity at high wind speeds as a result of the development of breaking waves. A study  of sensitivity of two different models (Siegenthaler outcrop box diffusion model and Takahashi-Azevedo inclined box diffusion model) to an increase of the CO sub(2) transfer velocity at high latitudes (outcrop regions of the deep ocean) is undertaken. It is shown that the variations in the transfer velocity with latitude must be taken into account.
DE: gas-transfer-air-sea; carbon-dioxide; breaking-waves; wind-speed; models-
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1018289

                                                                     67 of 309
TI: Displacements induced by breaking waves on axially loaded cylindrical shells.
AU: Godoy,-L.A.
AF: Natl. Univ. Cordoba, Struct. Dep., Cordoba, Argentina
SO: APPL.-OCEAN-RES. 1985. vol. 7, no. 3, pp. 152-157
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: Forced vibrations of the walls of a vertical cylindrical shell under the impact of a breaking wave are studied theoretically. The wave action is modelled as a pressure distribution which varies in time and space. A linear dynamic analysis of the transient response is carried out by means of the modal superposition technique, in which the static stresses are considered. The results show that in thin shells, the transient displacements could be of the order of the thickness of the shell. It is suggested that these large displacements could play an important role in eroding the buckling capacity of the structural component.
DE: dynamic-analysis; wave-action; cylinders-; thickness-; breaking-waves; offshore-platforms; load-force; deformation-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1018116

                                                                     68 of 309
TI: Waves and longshore currents: Comparison of a numerical model with field data.
AU: Wu,-C.-S.; Thornton,-E.B.; Guza,-R.T.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA 93943, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1985. vol. 90, no. C3, pp. 4951-4958
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A two-dimensional numerical model is used to predict the shoaling and breaking of surface gravity waves, and the resulting longshore currents, for 5 days of the Nearshore Sediment Transport study Santa Barbara experiment. By tuning the model with field data of longshore currents, the comparison between the model and data shows good agreement, and the obtained values of free parameters are relatively constant for the five experiments days.
DE: longshore-currents; gravity-waves; wave-breaking; shoaling-; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 1015218

                                                                     69 of 309
TI: Redefinition of shore-breaker classification as a numerical continuum and a design shore-breaker.
AU: Balsillie,-J.H.
AF: Div. Beaches and Shores, Florida Dep. Nat. Resour., Tallahassee, FL 32303, USA
SO: J.-COAST-RES. 1985. vol. 1, no. 3, pp. 247-254
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Based on an initial appraisal of data, new considerations are used on which to base a least equivocal numerical definition of shore-breaking waves. Redefinition is based on the amount of the wave crest, H"@db, measured form the wave crest top down, involved in shore-breaking, and is given by: H"@db/H sub(b) = tanh 0.4  xi  sub(b) where H sub(b) is the shore-breaking wave height, and  xi  sub(b) is a slightly modified version of the surf similarity parameter. The above equation also appears to represent the position at which the maximum impact pressure in a shore-breaking wave occurs. Available impact pressure data indicates that the shore-breaker with the most destructive potential has a value of  xi  sub(b) = 1.0. This results in a design shore-breaking wave which imparts the greatest horizontal impact at a distance of 0.62 H sub(b) above the wave trough, or 0.46 H sub(b) above the SWL.
DE: breaking-waves; nearshore-dynamics; wave-action; coastal-waters; mathematical-analysis; wave-crests
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0985319

                                                                     70 of 309
TI: Longshore dispersion over a flat beach.
AU: Ostendorf,-D.W.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Massachusetts, Amherst, MA 01003, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS. 1982. vol. 87, no. C6, pp. 4241-4248
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The authors present a model of the longshore dispersion of a passive, conservative pollutant in the surf zone formed by two-dimensional, monochromatic water waves of near-normal incidence breaking over a plane, flat, impermeable beach under presumedly uniform temporal, vertical, and longshore conditions. Such pollutants disperse in a Fickian manner through a plane moving at the areal averaged longshore current speed when the shore-normal concentration variation is small, with a longshore dispersivity reflecting diffusive and advective transport processes. They adopt an existing estimate of the turbulent diffusion and modify an existing longshore current model to derive a theoretical estimate of the longshore dispersivity. They calibrate the simple model with field data, generating accurate and physically plausible results.
DE: pollution-dispersion; surf-zone; longshore-currents; mathematical-models
CL: Pollution:-Characteristics,-behavior-and-fate-1503; Pollution:-Characteristics,-behavior-and-fate-2445
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0964838

                                                                     71 of 309
TI: Erosion control of scour during construction. Report 7. Current -- a wave-induced current model.
AU: Vemulakonda,-S.R.
CA: Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Stn., Vicksburg, MS (USA). Hydraulics Lab
SO: TECH.-REP.-U.S.-ARMY-ENG.-WATERWAYS-EXP.-STN. 1984. 108 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A148 102/7/GAR.
RN: WES/TR/HL-80-3-1 (WESTRHL8031)
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The purpose of this study is to develop a generalized numerical model that will predict currents induced by breaking waves at locations with or without coastal structures. The model should be applicable to real-life bathymetries that are often arbitrary and irregular and must be computationally efficient and economical in view of the large numerical grids often required in engineering projects.
DE: erosion-control; scouring-; current-forces; mathematical-models; breaking-waves; coastal-structures; coastal-engineering
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0964715

                                                                     72 of 309
TI: Effects of dolos breakage on the stability of rubble-mound breakwater trunks subjected to breaking and nonbreaking waves with no overtopping.
AU: Markle,-D.G.; Davidson,-D.D.
CA: Army Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Fort Belvoir, VA (USA)
SO: TECH.-REP.-U.S.-ARMY-COAST-ENG.-RES.-CENT. 1983. 72 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A140 191/8.
RN: CERC-TR-83-4 (CERCTR834)
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Experimental tests were conducted to determine the quantity and distribution of broken dolosse that will cause a reduction in the stability of the dolos armor layers (1V-on-1,5H sloped, breakwater trunks). It was concluded that for the range of test conditions considered: if dolos breakage does not exceed 15% uniform breakage in the top layer, 15% uniform breakage in the bottom layer, 7.5% uniform breakage in both layers (7.5% in the top layer plus 7.5% in the bottom layer), or clusters of 5 broken dolosse, the overall stability of the dolos coverlayers will be very similar to the stability response of a dolos-armored structure with no breakage; and when breakage levels exceed those specified in a structure could either fail catastrophically, have areas of exposed underlayer, and/or have areas with only one layer of dolos armor. The high degree of dolos movement and displacement associated with larger amounts of dolos breakage could cause additional dolos breakage that could ultimately lead to failure of the dolos armor layers.
DE: rubblemound-breakwaters; design-; materials-testing; construction-materials; wave-forces; breaking-waves; stability-
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0964013

                                                                     73 of 309
TI: A Lagrangian solution for internal waves.
AU: Sanderson,-B.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., Univ. British Columbia, 6270 University Blvd., Vancouver, B.C., Canada V6T 1W5
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1985. vol. 152, pp. 191-202
PY: 1985
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: A perturbation procedure is used to obtain first- and second-order solutions for small-amplitude internal waves in a Lagrangian coordinate system. The first-order Lagrangian equations are formally acurate to the same order as the first-order Eulerian equations; however, they are different and the Lagrangian solution gives a more realistic wave shape. First-order Lagrangian solutions for internal waves in uniformly stratified fluid exhibit broad crests and narrow troughs near the surface, a sinusoidal shape at mid-depth, and narrow crests and broad troughs near the bottom. The difference between the shape of crests and troughs grows as the wave amplitude is increased. Solutions obtained in a uniformly stratified fluid with a small bottom slope yield plausible shapes for breaking waves.
DE: fluid-mechanics; internal-waves; mathematical-analysis
ID: Lagrangian-coordinate-system
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0946983

                                                                     74 of 309
TI: Model experiments on stability and seakeeping quality of fishing boats in heavy seas. (Part 1) (265 GT type bonito fishing boat).
OT: Daiharo-chu no fukugen, taikoseino ni kansuru mokei jikken. (Sono 1) 265 GT-Gata katsuo-Tsuri gyosen senkei
AU: Yamakoshi,-Y.; Suzuki,-S.
AF: Natl. Res. Inst. Fish. Eng., 5-5-1, Kachidoki, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 104, Japan
SO: TECH.-REP.-NATL.-RES.-INST.-FISH.-ENG.-JAPAN-FISH.-BOAT-AND-INSTRUM.-SUIKOKEN-GIHO,-GYOSENKOGAKU. 1983. no. 4, pp. 11-41
IS: ISSN 0338-970X
PY: 1983
LA: Japanese
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Model experiments of fishing boats have been carried out in seakeeping model basin to investigate the stability and seakeeping quality of fishing boats in heavy seas. The principal results of the study were as follows: (1) most of the capsizes occurred in following waves or quartering waves, and only one capsize occurred in regular beam waves; the water shipped on deck seems to be a main facter in capsizing the model, because the capsizes were mostly caused by the hydro-dynamic forces of waves combined with trapped water on deck. The effect of shipping water must therefore be taken into account for stability criteria of fishing boats; (3) shipping water on deck depends on both model speed and wave steepness, and was observed mostly when the model was attacked by the breaking waves; and (4) the possibility of shipping water can be estimated by a calculation based on strip theory.
DE: stability-; ship-motion; wave-motion; fishing-vessels
CL: Practical-Aspects-of-Fisheries:-Fishing-vessels-and-harbors-1562
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 0939489

                                                                     75 of 309
TI: Sediment transport by wind wave induced current along the Adriatic coastline.
AU: Bertotti,-L.; Cavaleri,-L.
AF: ASCO, Via B. Pellegino 14, Padua, Italy
SO: RAPP.-P.-V.-REUN.-CIESM. 1983. vol. 28, no. 2, pp. 141-144
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: It is known that wind generated waves, while approaching the coast cause the material of the bottom to move and go into suspension. Moreover, the breaking waves induce a littoral current capable of carrying the suspended material along the coast. Starting from these basic considerations the transport of sediments due to waves has been studied during the summer and fall of 1978. The attention has been focused on the Adriatic coast from the Po Delta to Cattolica. The section has been divided in several subareas. For each of these the sediment movement has been evaluated daily during the low energy conditions in summer and during fall storms. The daily budget in each area, integrated over the period of study, indicates the coastal evolution and the areas of erosion and accretion depending on the wave prevalent direction.
DE: sediment-transport; wind-driven-currents; coastal-zone; erosion-; accretion-; MED,-Adriatic; MED,-Italy
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 0919274

                                                                     76 of 309
TI: Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone.
AU: Svendsen,-I.A.
AF: Univ. Delaware, Dep. Civ. Eng., Newark, DE 19711, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1984. vol. 8, no. 4, pp. 347-365
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
NT: 9 figs.
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The mass of water carried shoreward by the breaking waves in a surf zone will, in a two-dimensional situation, be compensated by a seaward return flow, the undertow. It is shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth. Turbulent shear stresses are required to maintain a steady situation. Comparison with measurements confirms the theoretical results.
DE: coastal-engineering; wave-breaking; surf-zone; coastal-erosion; coastal-morphology
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0915375

                                                                     77 of 309
TI: The visual estimation of shore-breaking wave heights.
AU: Balsillie,-J.H.; Carter,-R.W.G.
AF: Florida Dep. Nat. Resour., Div. Beaches and Shore, 3900 Commonwealth Blvd., Tallahassee, FL 32301, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1984. vol. 8, no. 4, pp. 367-375
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
NT: 4 tables, 9 figs.
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Although a number of programmes for the visual estimation of breaking wave height have been, or are being, operated in different parts of the world (USA-LEO, Australia-COPE), there has been little investigation of the reliability of such data to make precise evaluations of breaking wave height. Using a combination of field data for simultaneous visual estimations and measurements of breaking wave height, it can be shown that experienced observers are able to estimate mean height with only a 20% error. Also the moments of the breaking wave spectrum may be calculated, allowing quick and cheap measurements of extreme waves. LEO records from Florida and California indicate that almost 50% of the data are redundant as frequency of observation could be halved without loss. However, records appear to be filtered, inasmuch as extreme waves are underestimated.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-height; wave-data; nearshore-dynamics
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0915335

                                                                     78 of 309
TI: A deterministic, coherent, and dual-polarized laboratory study of microwave backscattering from water waves. Part 1: Short gravity waves without wind.
AU: Kwoh,-D.S.W.; Lake,-B.M.
AF: TRW Space and Technol. Group, Redondo Beach, CA 90278, USA
SO: IEEE-J.-OCEAN.-ENG. 1984. vol. OE-9, no. 5, pp. 291-308
NT: Special issue: Microwave signatures, sea, sea ice, snow.
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The fundamental mechanisms of microwave backscattering from mechanically generated short gravity waves with 25-cm wavelength have been investigated in the laboratory using a CW coherent dual-polarized focused radar operating at 9.23 GHz and a laser scanning slope gauge which provides an almost instantaneous profile of the water surface while scattering is taking place. The surface was also monitored independently for specular reflection using an optical sensor. It is found that microwave backscattering occurs in discrete bursts which are highly correlated with "gentle" breaking of the waves. These backscattering bursts are either completely nonspecular or are partially specular in nature.
DE: gravity-waves; microwave-imagery; backscatter-
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0915154

                                                                     79 of 309
TI: Modeling wave transformation in the surf zone.
AU: Dally,-W.R.; Dean,-R.G.; Dalrymple,-R.A.
CA: Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: MISC.-PAP.-U.S.-ARMY-COAST.-ENG.-RES.-CENT. 1984. 55 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A146 951/9/GAR.
RN: CERC-MP-84-8 (CERCMP848)
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: By drawing a macroscopic analogy between an idealized surf zone and a hydraulic jump, an expression for the spatial change in energy flux due to breaking is developed. Analytical solutions for wave height decay due to shoaling and breaking on a flat shelf and a plane beach are presented and the results compared with laboratory data from Horikawa and Kuo (1966). The agreement is good. Setdown/setup in mean water level, bettom friction losses, and bottom profiles of arbitrary shape are introduced next and the equations transformed for numerical solution. A test run on a prototype scale profile containing three bar and trough systems demonstrates the model's ability to describe the shoaling, breaking, and wave reformation process.
DE: mathematical-models; surf-zone; breaking-waves; energy-dissipation; wave-height; shoaling-waves; shallow-water-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0893004

                                                                     80 of 309
TI: Experimental study on the deformation of waves passing on a reef.
OT: Asasejo o tsukasuru nami no henkei ni kansuru jikkenteki kenkyu
AU: Nakayama,-A.; Yamamoto,-M.
AF: Natl. Res. Inst. Fish. Eng. (Japan), Ebidai, Hasaki, Kashima-gun, Ibaragi, 314-04 Japan
SO: TECH.-REP.-NATL.-RES.-INST.-FISH.-ENG.-JAPAN-AQUACULT.-FISH.-PORT-SUIKOKEN-GIHO-SUISANDOBOKU. 1984. no. 5, pp. 129-144
IS: ISSN 0389-2344
PY: 1984
LA: Japanese
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Reefs are commonly found around a fishing port. They deform waves to ones with larger amplitude and greater steepness, or to breaking waves, and an area is created where comparatively small ships, such as fishing boats, cannot easily navigate. In order to construct break-waters or lay a course around reefs, it is necessary to evaluate the surrounding waves. The hydraulic properties of waves around reefs are discussed. Characteristics of the waves passing on a reef are discussed. In cases of waves not breaking on a reef, the amplitude of transmitted waves is larger than that of incident waves. The region where waves are strongly deformed by a reef, has also been made clear quantitatively.
DE: experimental-research; wave-motion; deformation-; reefs-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Practical-Aspects-of-Fisheries:-Fishing-vessels-and-harbors-1562
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 0892835

                                                                     81 of 309
TI: A model of the turbulent diffusion of bubbles below the sea surface.
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, GU8 5UB, UK
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1984. vol. 14, no. 5, pp. 841-854
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: Bubbles produced by breaking wind waves are carried by turbulence below the sea surface. In an earlier model of the distribution of bubble sizes with depth it was necessary to neglect certain terms in order to formulate a differential equation which was solved numerically. A model is devised in which this procedure is avoided. The model successfully reproduces the variation of the total number of bubbles with depth, but fails to describe the observed shape of the size distribution.
DE: air-bubbles; turbulent-diffusion; vertical-profiles; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0889826

                                                                     82 of 309
TI: Energy dissipation in waves breaking on gentle slopes.
AU: Stive,-M.J.F.
AF: Delft Hydraul. Lab., Harbours and Coasts Branch, Voorsterweg 28, 8316 PT, Marknesse, Netherlands
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1984. vol. 8, no. 2, pp. 99-127
RN: 0378-3839 (03783839)
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The flow field of waves breaking on a gently sloping beach is shown to closely resemble that of hydraulic jumps. This supports the use of the hydraulic jump formulation for the breaking wave energy dissipation. A correction to this formulation, which takes into account the effects of turbulent flow, is found to explain the observed discrepancies between the classical theoretical result and the experiments satisfactorily. These findings are used to propose a simple, semi-empirical model for the wave height decay which includes the set-up. The model is generalized to a wider range of wave conditions by analyzing published data.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; wave-processes-on-beaches; wave-dissipation; wave-breaking
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0877087

                                                                     83 of 309
TI: On the fluid dynamical theory of turbulent gas transfer across an air-sea interface in the presence of breaking wind-waves.
AU: Kitaigorodskii,-S.A.
AF: Dep. Earth and Planet. Sci., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1984. vol. 14, no. 5, pp. 960-972
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: It is shown that in order to describe the transfer of gases in the liquid near the air-sea interface, the vertical structure of three-dimensional small-scale turbulence patches generated by breaking waves must be considered. The dependence of eddy diffusivity on distance from a gas-liquid interface inside such turbulent patches is determined, and the pseudothickness of the molecular diffusion sublayer for gases with main resistance to transfer in the liquid phase is calculated. The proposed theory indicates that the appropriate transfer velocity (ratio of gas flux to its concentration difference) is proportional to Pr super(-1/2)( nu  epsilon  sub( nu )(0)) super(1/4), where  epsilon  sub( nu )(0) is the dissipation of turbulent energy uniformly distributed in the upper part of the turbulent patch,  nu  is the viscosity and Pr the Prandtl number.
DE: wind-waves; breaking-waves; air-water-interface; gas-transfer; turbulence-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0876415

                                                                     84 of 309
TI: Recent problems on sea waves in coastal engineering investigation.
OT: Saikin to kaigan kogaku ni okeru haro no shomondai
AU: Sawaragi,-T.
AF: Fac. Eng., Osaka Univ., Suita 565, Japan
CO: Symposium on Waves and Disaster Prevention (Symposium, Haro to Bosai), Kobe (Japan), 15 Dec 1982
SO: UMI-TO-SORA. 1983. vol. 59, no. 2, pp. 83-92
IS: ISSN 0503-1567
PY: 1983
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Some problems of sea waves are explained according to the following subjects: (1) wave defromation in shallow water depth; (2) some problems of breaking waves; (3) reflected waves due to coastal and harbor structures. Protection work on wave overtopping, with respect to the environment, is proposed.
DE: coastal-engineering; wave-breaking; wave-forces; waves-on-beaches; wave-reflection; wave-damping
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0876302

                                                                     85 of 309
TI: Breaking wave forces and velocity fields.
AU: Easson,-W.J.; Greated,-C.A.
AF: Univ. Edinburgh, Phys. Dep., Fluid Dynamics Unit, The Kings' Buildings, Edinburgh EH3 9JZ, Scotland
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1984. vol. 8, no. 3, pp. 233-241
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
NT: 6 figs.
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new technique for measuring velocities under breaking wave crests using laser-doppler anemometry has been developed. Results may be obtained at positions up to 4 millimeters from the crest. A wave field is presented for a vertically fronted wave and comparison is made with an appropriate numerical study. The velocities obtained are far in excess of the predictions of linear theory. Measurements have also been made of the forces produced by this wave on a horizontal cylinder. Comparisons with large regular waves indicate that forces due to breaking waves can be up to five times greater for similar wave heights.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; wave-breaking; hydrodynamics-; measurement-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0874887

                                                                     86 of 309
TI: Detection of breaking events in a wind-generated wave field.
AU: Weissman,-M.A.; Ataktuerk,-S.S.; Katsaros,-K.B.
AF: Microscience, Inc., Federal Way, WA 98003, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1984. vol. 14, no. 10, pp. 1608-1619
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements were made of the surface elevation of a fetch-limited wave field (fetch 7 km, wind speed about 6 m s super(-1)). Good high-frequency response was attained by the use of a very thin, bare wire probe of diameter 0.13 mm. Breaking waves were detected based on the energy in the 18-32 Hz frequency band. An appropriate threshold was found by a trial and error method. General agreement was found with visual observations. The temporal intermittency of wave breaking (fraction of time spent in breaking regions) was found to be only 1.2%; however, the fraction of high-frequency (5-50 Hz) energy in those regions was 12%. An argument is presented to show that the spatial intermittency and the spatial energy fraction should have the same values. The mean crest height of the breaking waves was found to be much lower than expected from theoretical considerations (by a factor of 4).
DE: wave-breaking; wind-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0874730

                                                                     87 of 309
TI: On the response of short ocean wave components at a fixed wavenumber to ocean current variations.
AU: Phillips,-O.M.
AF: Dep. Earth and Planet. Sci., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1984. vol. 14, no. 9, pp. 1425-1433
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper is concerned with the patterns in the degree of saturation of short wind-generated waves (at scales much smaller than those of the spectral peak but large compared with the capillary scales) that are produced by current variations in the presence of wind energy input and loss by breaking or by the formation of parasitic capillaries. It has two aims: the first is to provide a base for interpretation of patterns observed in synthetic aperture radar imagery in terms of current features. The second is to give analytical expressions for the magnitude of the variations in degree of saturation produced by given current fields so that, when appropriate quantitative measurements become available, better parameteric representations of the energy loss rates can be developed.
DE: wind-wave-interaction; wave-current-interaction; wave-measurement
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0874686

                                                                     88 of 309
TI: Breaking of ocean surface waves.
AU: Griffin,-O.M.
CA: Naval Research Lab., Washington, DC (USA)
SO: MEMO.-REP.-U.S.-NAV.-RES.-LAB. 1984. 80 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A142 356/5.
RN: NRL-MR-5337 (NRLMR5337)
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Several advances toward an understanding of wave breaking have been made in recent years. These include the experimental characterization of the instability mechanisms which lead to wave breaking in deep water, proposed mathematical models for these instability mechanisms, and numerical simulations of wave overturning and incipient breaking. These topics are discussed.
DE: water-waves; breaking-waves; mathematical-models; deep-water; shallow-water-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0869239

                                                                     89 of 309
TI: Parametric modelling of joint probability density distributions for steepness and asymmetry in deep water waves.
AU: Myrhaug,-D.; Kjeldsen,-S.P.
AF: Norwegian Hydrodyn. Lab., Trondheim, Norway
SO: APPL.-OCEAN-RES. 1984. vol. 6, no. 4, pp. 207-220
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Traditional wave steepness s = H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves uniquely. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Parametric models for joint probability density distributions for deep water waves are presented. The joint distributions are for crest front steepness-wave height, vertical asymmetry factor-wave height, total wave steepness-wave height and wave height-wave period. The parametric models are estimated from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from measurements at sea on the Norwegian continental shelf. The results of the analysis presented here can be used in the estimation of the probabilities of occurrence of steep asymmetric waves and breaking waves in deep water. Thus the results are useful for the practical naval architect and ocean engineer who are considering unusual events in the sea, the associated accidents or responses and the probability of occurrence of such events.
DE: wave-data; wave-steepness; modeling-; deep-water; parameterization-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0837012

                                                                     90 of 309
TI: Transformation of wave height distribution.
AU: Thornton,-E.B.; Guza,-R.T.
AF: Naval Postgrad. Sch., Monterey, CA 93940, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS-ATMOS.. 1983. vol. 88, no. C10, pp. 5925-5938
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The transformation of random wave heights during shoaling, including waves breaking in the surf zone, was measured with an extensive array of instruments in the field. The initially Rayleigh height distributions in 10-m depth were observed to be modified by shoaling and breaking into new distributions which are again nearly Rayleight but with some energy loss. Using locally measured H sub(rms), the Rayleigh distribution describes the measured central moments of H sub(1/3) and H sub(1/10) with average errors of -0.2% and -1.8%, respectively. The Rayleigh distribution is used to describe the random nature of wave heights in a single-parameter transformation model based on energy flux balance.
DE: wave-height; wave-breaking; shoaling-waves; mathematical-models; energy-transfer
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0836853

                                                                     91 of 309
TI: Spatial and temporal variations in spectra of storm waves across a barred nearshore.
AU: Davidson-Arnott,-R.G.D.; Randall,-D.C.
AF: Dep. Geogr., Univ. Guelph, Guelph, Ont. N1G 2W1, Canada
SO: MAR.-GEOL. 1984. vol. 60, no. 1-4, pp. 15-30
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave staffs and electromagnetic current meters were deployed on a profile across a two-bar system at Wendake Beach, southern Georgian Bay. This paper examines spatial and temporal changes in the characteristics of wave form, and the spectra of surface elevation and on-offshore current motion, during one storm. Non-linear effects of wave shoaling and breaking across the bars result in the appearance of secondary waves and both the wave and on-offshore current spectra have significant harmonic peaks during most of the storm. Significant low-frequency energy occurs only during the peak of the storm.
DE: spatial-variations; temporal-variations; waveform-analysis; current-meters; wave-height; storms-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0836704

                                                                     92 of 309
TI: Statistical data on the tsunami wave runup.
OT: Statisticheskie dannye o kharaktere nakata voln tsunami
AU: Mazova,-R.Kh.; Pelinovskij,-E.N.; Solov'-ev,-S.L.
AF: Inst. Prikl. Fiz. AN S.S.S.R., Gor'kij, USSR
SO: OKEANOLOGIYA. 1983. vol. 23, no. 6, pp. 932-937
IS: ISSN 0030-1574
PY: 1983
LA: Russian
LS: English; Russian
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Tsunamis catalogues were used to identify tsunami waves as those which climb the beach with and without breaking. Flooding of the beach without breaking is shown to be typical of most tsunamis. It is found that the probability of wave breaking increases with the wave height. A conclusion is made that the type of the wave runup should be taken into consideration in calculations of the resistance of coastal structures to tsunamis. Diagrams showing the frequency of occurrence of different types of tsunamis have been plotted.
DE: tsunamis-; wave-runup; statistical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Tides,-surges-and-sea-level-2167
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0836647

                                                                     93 of 309
TI: Turbulence originating from convectively stable internal waves.
AU: Lindzen,-R.S.; Forbes,-J.
AF: Sci. Applications, Inc., McLean, VA 22102, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS-ATMOS.. 1983. vol. 88, no. C11, pp. 6549-6553
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A theory has recently been developed for the generation of turbulence by unstable tides and gravity waves. Omitted from this theory was consideration of the possibility that turbulence could be generated by gravity waves which were not convectively unstable (i.e., breaking). The possibility of such generation was suggested by a result of McComas and Bretherton (1977) showing that internal gravity waves are indeed unstable to other gravity waves with shorter wavelengths. The present paper estimates the maximum turbulence which might be generated by such a process and shows that even this turbulence would not greatly alter earlier results.
DE: turbulence-; internal-waves; convection-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0813228

                                                                     94 of 309
TI: Measurement of breaking waves by a surface jump meter.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,-M.S.; Smith,-N.D.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, GU8 5UB, UK
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS-ATMOS.. 1983. vol. 88, no. C14, pp. 9823-9831
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Quantitative information on the strength and size distribution of whitecaps in a given wave field is very scarce. During the MARSEN field experiments, observations of surface elevation were made with a capacitance wire wave recorder attached to a free floating spar buoy. Automatic analysis of the records with a differentiating cirucit and counter allowed a histogram of jump-heights to be constructed corresponding to any present critical rise rate R of the surface elevation. Over a certain range of R the histogram was nearly independent of the precise value of R. This occurred usually when 0.6 < R/c sub(0) < 1.0 where c sub(0) was the speed of the dominant waves. Records were obtained in wind speeds ranging from 1 to 14 m/s. At 14 m/s the number of "jumps" indicating either steep or breaking waves was of the order of 1 every 100 wave periods. It is shown that this number is consistent with previous theoretical estimates, and with visual observations of whitecap coverage.
DE: breaking-waves; measuring-devices; surface-water-waves; remote-sensing; wind-stress; white-caps
ID: surface-jump-meter; Marine-Remote-Sensing-Experiment
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0812935

                                                                     95 of 309
TI: Analysis of MARSEN X band SAR ocean wave data.
AU: Shuchman,-R.A.; Rosenthal,-W.; Lyden,-J.D.; Lyzenga,-D.R.; Kasischke,-E.S.; Gunther,-H.; Linne,-H.
AF: Radar and Optics Div., Environ. Res. Inst. Michigan, P.O. Box 8618, Ann Arbor, MI 48107, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS-ATMOS.. 1983. vol. 88, no. C14, pp. 9757-9768
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Analysis of X band SAR imagery collected during the MARSEN experiment indicates that the APD-10 SAR system imaged both range- and azimuth-traveling gravity waves. However, only the near-edge portion of the APD-10 imagery provided reliable spectral wave estimates. Numerous motion artifacts, which manifest themselves as azimuth-oriented streaks, are visible on the data and are believed to be caused by breaking waves. Because of the large platform velocity, the APD-10 SAR data are relatively insensitive to wave enhancement adjustments performed during the processing of SAR signal histories. A modulation transfer function to relate SAR-derived spectra to in situ measurements has been developed. The transfer function is smaller and falls off more rapidly with wave number for azimuth-traveling waves than for range-traveling waves.
DE: wave-data; remote-sensing; radar-imagery; gravity-waves
ID: APD-10-SAR
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0812336

                                                                     96 of 309
TI: Analysis of scatterer motion effects in MARSEN X band SAR imagery.
AU: Lyzenga,-D.R.; Shuchman,-R.A.
AF: Radar and Optics Div., Environ. Res. Inst. Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48107, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS-ATMOS.. 1983. vol. 88, no. C14, pp. 9769-9775
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Synthetic aperture radar X band images collected over the North Sea during the 1979 MARSEN experiment show numerous apparent point scatterers imaged with a degraded resolution in the along-track direction. The observed resolution of these features is consistent with a scatterer coherence time of the order of 10 super(-2) s or a vertical acceleration of the order of 5 m/s super(2). Observations of the resolution as a function of the processor integration time tend to support the coherence time explanation. Similar coherence times have been measured for breaking waves by conventional high-resolution radars, suggesting that the same phenomena may be responsible for the features observed on the synthetic aperture radar imagery.
DE: remote-sensing; radar-imagery; wave-data; water-waves
ID: SAR-; scatterer-points; image-streaking
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0812100

                                                                     97 of 309
TI: Deepwater breaking wave forces on surface piercing structures.
AU: Chan,-E.S.; Melville,-W.K.
AF: Dep. Civil Eng., Massachusetts Inst. Technol., Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
CO: Oceans '84 Conference, Washington, DC (USA), 10-12 Sep 1984
SO: OCEANS-'-84-CONFERENCE-RECORD:-INDUSTRY,-GOVERNMENT,-EDUCATION.-DESIGNS-FOR-THE-FUTURE. Marine-Technology-Soc.,-Washington,-DC-USA;-IEEE,-New-York,-NY-USA 1984. vol. 2, pp. 565-570
ST: OCEANS-'-84.
RN: IEEE-84CH2066-9 (IEEE84CH20669)
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A preliminary experimental study of deep water breaking wave forces on a flat plate was conducted in wave channel. Pressures were measured simultaneously at six vertical locations, for different horizontal locations of the plate relative to the break point, and for three inclinations to the vertical. The results show that even under very well controlled conditions the pressure field exhibits considerable variability from run to run; however, the integral of the pressure field (the impulse) is repeatable. The influence of the wave kinematics and dynamics on the pressure field is discussed.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-forces; offshore-engineering; offshore-structures; deep-water
ID: surface-piercing-structures
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0793061

                                                                     98 of 309
TI: The role of bubbles produced by breaking waves in super-saturating the near-surface ocean mixing layer with oxygen.
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, UK
SO: ANN.-GEOPHYS. 1984. vol. 2, no. 1, pp. 53-56
IS: ISSN 0755-0685
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Estimates of the flux of gas across the sea surface have been obtained from laboratory experiments and sonar observations of subsurface bubbles. The former appear to provide a measure of the flux through the sea surface when the contribution from breaking waves and bubbles is negligible, whilst the latter account only for the flux of O sub(2) and N sub(2) transported via bubbles. Both fluxes vary with wind speed. The estimates are used to predict the levels of super-saturation of O sub(2) and N sub(2) in the near-surface mixing layer of the ocean as a function of wind speed on the assumptions that a balance is achieved between gas injected by bubbles and ejected through the surface, and that other fluxes are negligible. The observed mean super-saturation level for O sub(2) of about 3% could be maintained by the gas flux via bubbles at wind speeds of about 12.3-14.5 ms super(-1).
DE: air-water-exchanges; gases-; nitrogen-; bubbles-; breaking-waves; wind-speed; saturation-; surface-layer
ID: oxygen-
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0791700

                                                                     99 of 309
TI: (Sedimentary dynamics in the western Mont St. Michel Bay: Influence of shellfish culture enterprises.).
OT: Dynamique sedimentaire dans la partie occidentale de la baie du Mont Saint-Michel: Influence des installations ostreicoles
AU: Nikodic,-J.
CA: Nantes Univ. (France). Institut des Sciences de la Nature
SO: NANTES-FRANCE-NANTES-UNIV. 1981. 180 pp
NT: These (3eme Cycle. Geology). Incl. eight photogr. plates.
PY: 1981
LA: French
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Since 1975 the oyster culture off Cancale, Mont Saint-Michel Bay, has been facing an intense siltation of mud. The whole bay is also affected. The presence of oyster culture stations is in certain circumstances responsible for the accumulation of mud, because the station itself acts as a sediment trap. But, after examination of the sedimentary transport processes, and of the mass budget of sediments, the direction of the wind may be an important factor in the sedimentary transport processes. Mussel farming with the aid of bouchots retains the sediments by breaking the incident waves and introducing an area of quiet waters, favorable to sedimentation. Short-term projects include mainly the removal of wire-netting around the farms, dredging of unemployed parks, and modification of the orientation of the roads between the parks so that the sediments do not silt but remains in suspension. Long-term projects include a new organization of the culture parks so that mechanical dredging can be easy, and the circulation of sea-water shall carry the suspended matter and the mud away.
DE: sediment-transport; sedimentation-; shellfish-culture; tidal-currents; sediment-analysis; suspended-particulate-matter; ANE,-France,-Mont-St.-Michel-Bay; mud-
CL: Aquaculture:-Shellfish-culture-1583; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0767898

                                                                    100 of 309
TI: Estimate of breaking wave height behind structures.
AU: Kraus,-N.C.
AF: Neashore Environ. Res. Cent., 1202 Famille Hongo Build., 1-20-6 Mukohgaoka, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 113, Japan
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN.-ENG.-AM.-SOC.-CIV.-ENG. 1984. vol. 110, no. 2, pp. 276-282
PY: 1984
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: This note describes a pragmatic calculation procedure for estimating the longshore distribution of the breaking wave height and angle behind structures on a uniformly sloping beach.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-height; wave-direction; coastal-structures; waves-on-beaches; distribution-; approximation-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767873

                                                                    101 of 309
TI: Stream function solutions for steady water waves.
AU: Huang,-M.-C.; Hudspeth,-R.T.
AF: Dep. Naval Architecture and Mar. Eng., National Cheng Kung Univ., Tainan, Taiwan 700
SO: CONT.-SHELF-RES. 1984. vol. 3, no. 2, pp. 175-190
IS: ISSN 0278-4343
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Two stream function solutions for steady two-dimensional water waves are reviewed. The algorithm developed by Dalrymple (1974, Proc, 6th Conf. Offshore Tech., pp. 843-856) and used by Hudspeth and Slotta (1978, Proceedings of the American Society of Civil Engineers, 104, 319-334) is compared with the algorithm developed by Chaplin (1980, Coastal Engineering, 3, 179-205). By examining more closely the near-breaking wave conditions, it is shown that celerity does not increase monotonically with increasing dimensionless wave steepness. Numerical comparisons between the two algorithms indicate that the Dalrymple algorithm is more accurate for near-breaking waves and requires less computer programming effort. Neither algorithm appears to be able to predict breaking wave conditions as accurately as the Cokelet (1977, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London, A286, 183-230) algorithm.
DE: mathematical-models; stream-functions; water-waves; hydrodynamics-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767861

                                                                    102 of 309
TI: Wave height change of random waves broken by a longshore bar.
AU: Sato,-M.; Kobe,-N.
AF: Dep. Ocean Civ. Eng., Univ. Kagoshima, Japan
CO: 30. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Muroran, Hokkaido (Japan), 1983
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, p. 238
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Goda's model developed for the prediction of the deformation of random waves breaking on a beach was extended for the application to the beach of arbitrary bottom topography including bar-trough profiles. The calculated results were examined in comparison with experimental data and field data.
DE: bottom-topography-effects; sand-bars; wave-height; wave-processes-on-beaches
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767550

                                                                    103 of 309
TI: Experimental study on the breaking wave force acting on a cylinderical pile.
AU: Sawaragi,-T.; Nochino,-M.; Iwahashi,-T.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Osaka Univ., Japan
CO: 30. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Muroran, Hokkaido (Japan), 1983
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, p. 247
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Impulsive force due to breaking waves acting on a cylinderical pile was investigated experimentally. It was found that I sub(r) and X sub(B)/L strongly control the vertical distribution of local impulsive force due to breaking waves, where I sub(r) is the surf-similarity parameter and X sub(B)/L is the relative position of the pile from the breaking point.
DE: cylindrical-bodies; piles-; breaking-waves; wave-forces
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767549

                                                                    104 of 309
TI: Study on breaking of standing irregular sea waves.
AU: Iwata,-K.; Kiyono,-H.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Nagoya Univ., Japan
CO: 30. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Muroran, Hokkaido (Japan), 1983
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, p. 238
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking situation and limit of standing irregular sea waves was discussed by experiments and theory. Time sequence characteristics of incident zero-upcrossing waves was made clear to dominate the breaking situation and limit, and the semi-experimental formula for breaking wave steepness was presented.
DE: wave-breaking; standing-waves; wave-steepness
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767539

                                                                    105 of 309
TI: A theory of breaking waves on slope and its application.
AU: Ishida,-H.; Yamaguchi,-N.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Kanazawa, Japan
CO: 30. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Muroran, Hokkaido (Japan), 1983
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, p. 236
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An approximate solution of breaking waves on a slope was obtained by using the coordinate transformation from Cartesian to the elliptic, and the validity of this solution was examined by comparing with the experimental data.
DE: breaking-waves; beach-slope
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767428

                                                                    106 of 309
TI: Experimental study on the spatial characteristics of turbulence due to breaking waves.
AU: Aono,-T.; Hattori,-M.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Chuo Univ., Cuo, Japan
CO: 30. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Muroran, Hokkaido (Japan), 1983
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, pp. 235-236
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Turbulent and wave-induced velocity components under spilling and plunging breakers were obtained with aid of numerical filters having the frequency characteristics expressed by the coherence between the surface and velocity variations. Remarkable difference was found in the spatial chracteristics of the turbulent structures for a variety of breaker types.
DE: breakers-; breaking-waves; turbulence-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767416

                                                                    107 of 309
TI: Experimental study on variation of wave energy after breaking.
AU: Iwata,-K.; Koyama,-H.; Futoh,-S.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Nagoya Univ., Nagoya, Japan
CO: 30. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Muroran, Hokkaido (Japan), 1983
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, p. 235
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: First, a cantilever-type velocity meter was newly devised to measure kinematic wave energy. Characteristics of variation of wave energy were made clear in correlation with breaker types. And, changes of potential and kinematic wave energy were discussed. A formula was presented to calculate the kinematic wave energy.
DE: kinematics-; wave-energy; breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767387

                                                                    108 of 309
TI: Experimental study on breaking limit of partial standing waves.
AU: Iwata,-K.; Kiyono,-H.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Nagoya Univ., Nagoya, Japan
CO: 30. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Muroran, Hokkaido (Japan), 1983
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, p. 235
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking limit of partial standing waves was investigated mainly by experiments. Many experiments using regular waves were performed. With help of theoretical consideration, a formula for estimating the critical wave steepness for the partial standing wave steepness for the partial standing wave was presented.
DE: wave-breaking; standing-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0767368

                                                                    109 of 309
TI: Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas.
AU: Ochi,-M.K.; Tsai,-C.-H.
AF: Coastal and Oceanogr. Eng. Dep., Univ. Florida, 336 Weil Hall, Gainesville, FL 32611, USA
SO: APPL.-OCEAN.-RES. 1984. vol. 6, no. 3, pp. 157-165
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.
DE: prediction-; statistical-analysis; wave-effects; breaking-waves; cylindrical-bodies
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0749100

                                                                    110 of 309
TI: Numerical analysis of breaking waves in a shallow water.
AU: Kioka,-W.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Nagoya Inst. Technol., Japan
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1983. vol. 26, pp. 11-18
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: The deformation of shallow-water breaking waves is studied from the exact theory of irrotational flow. The method used here is based on the mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian technique developed by Longuet-Higgins and Cokelet. To generate the breaking waves a sufficiently large wave steepness is used as initial conditions for the computation. The deformation of unsteady waves and the resultant two types of breaker, plunging and spilling breakers, are shown for various relative depths. The velocity field of these breaking waves are also given.
DE: shallow-water-waves; numerical-analysis; breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0749032

                                                                    111 of 309
TI: The effect of Langmuir circulation on the distribution of submerged bubbles caused by breaking wind waves.
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, UK
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1984. vol. 142, pp. 151-170
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Clouds of bubbles are generated at the sea surface by breaking wind waves or by heavy rain. Rows of subsurface bubble clouds have been detected by a bottom-mounted side-scan sonar, and are possibly formed by the effects of Langmuir circulation. A simple equation is devised to describe the effects of the turbulent diffusion of bubbles from the free surface, bubble rise and dissolution, and advection by Langmuir circulation. A random-walk numerical model, in which changes occurring in individual bubbles are followed, is tested against the analytical model in the range for which the latter is valid. There is good agreement.
DE: Langmuir-circulation; bubbles-; subsurface-water; turbulent-diffusion; mathematical-models; waves-; surface-properties; turbulence-
ID: sonar-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0748207

                                                                    112 of 309
TI: Some nonlinear problems of water waves in a channel.
AU: Shen,-M.C.
CA: Wisconsin Univ., Madison (USA). Mathematics Research Cent
SO: TECH.-SUMM.-REP.-WIS.-UNIV.-MATH.-RES.-CENT. 1983. 23 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A128 075/9; Contract DAAG29-80-C-0041, Grant NSF-MCS80-01960
RN: MRC-TSR-2486 (MRCTSR2486)
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: On the basis of some approximate equations derived for nonlinear water waves in a channel of variable cross section, several problems of interest will be taken up in this report. First, the authors consider the breaking of an acceleration, wave moving toward a shoreline in a general channel. Next, the so-called infinite mass dilemma, which arises in the study of the development of a solitary wave in a channel of variable cross section, will be resolved. Finally, they shall use an approximation method to study the fission of solitons in a general channel and justify it.
DE: nonlinear-wave-interactions; mathematical-modelling; breaking-waves; channels-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0732232

                                                                    113 of 309
TI: Assessment of surface wave effects on upper ocean parameters.
AU: Earle,-M.D.
CA: Marine Environments Corp., Manassas, VA (USA)
SO: 1983. 93 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A124 637/0; Contract N00014-82-C-0237.
RN: MEC-13-W (MEC13W)
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Effects of surface waves on upper ocean physical oceanographic parameters of interests to the Ocean Measurements program (OMP) are investigated. Three surface wave effects are potentially important: generation of inertial currents and associated vertical shear, generation of high frequency internal waves within the seasonal thermocline, and increased mixing and decreased vertical gradients near the surface due to wave breaking and wave maintenance of turbulence. Theory relating to each of these effects is provided and mathematical calculations are made which indicate the potential importance of these effects for the OMP. These effects increase with wind speed and sea state and are thus potentially important in mid-to-high latitude regions.
DE: surface-water-waves; surface-water; internal-waves; inertial-currents; mathematical-models; mixed-layer
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0731852

                                                                    114 of 309
TI: Wave blocking by adverse ocean currents.
AU: Witting,-J.M.
AF: Lab. Computational Phys., Naval Res. Lab., Washington, DC 20375, USA
CO: Spring Meeting, American Geophysical Union, Baltimore, MD (USA), 31 May 1983
SO: EOS-TRANS.-AM.-GEOPHYS.-UNION. 1983. vol. 64, no. 45, p. 732
NT: Summary only.
RN: O32B-38 (O32B38)
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Synthetic Aperture Radars have produced images that reveal the bathymetry of the sea floor, notably in the English Channel and Nantucket Shoals area of the North Atlantic. The instruments sense wavelengths much less than the water depth, and so the physical mechanism leading to the imaging must involve something that connects the short waves on the surface to the sea floor. Wave blocking, which can occur when surface waves run into a nonuniform current, is a likely mechanism leading to high-contrast images. This paper describes the application of the unified waves model to wave-current interactions, with particular emphasis on wave blocking. The model is fully nonlinear, and can treat waves up to breaking with accuracy. The results show that waves are blocked very nearly where linear theory predicts: where the linear wave group speed relative to the water matches the water speed.
DE: radar-imagery; bathymetry-; ocean-floor; water-waves; ocean-circulation; reflection-
ID: wave-blocking
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0730929

                                                                    115 of 309
TI: Observations of the internal tide, undular bores, and solitary waves on the Scotian Shelf.
AU: Sandstrom,-H.; Elliott,-J.A.
AF: Bedford Inst. Oceanogr., Dartmouth, N.S., Canada B2Y 4A2
CO: Spring Meeting, American Geophysical Union, Baltimore, MD (USA), 31 May 1983
SO: EOS-TRANS.-AM.-GEOPHYS.-UNION. 1983. vol. 64, no. 45, p. 727
NT: Summary only.
RN: O22-02 (O2202)
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The authors present results from an experimental program at the edge of the Scotian Shelf, which included measurements with moored thermistor chains and current meters, profiling acoustic current meter, acoustic sounder, and repeated CTD and profiling CTD (BATFISH) sections. The nature of the semi-diurnal tide over the upper continental slope and shelf edge is discussed, based on the synthesis of the diverse observations. The data indicate that the internal tide over the shelf edge is essentially non-linear, at times developing into an internal undular bore, or at other times breaking up into internal solitary waves. Examples of each are presented, and it is suggested that the form of the density stratification plays an important role in the non-linear evolution of the internal tide.
DE: internal-tides; ocean-circulation; solitary-waves; ANW,-Scotian-Shelf; current-data
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0730569

                                                                    116 of 309
TI: (Ecology and population structure of Decapod Crustaceans associated with corals of the genus Pocillopora  in French Polynesia and Guam.).
OT: Ecologie et structure des peuplements de crustaces decapodes associes aux coraux du genre Pocillopora  en Polynesie Francaise et en Micronesie (Guam)
AU: Odinetz,-O.
CA: Paris-6 Univ. (France)
SO: PARIS-FRANCE-PARIS-6-UNIV. 1983. 221 pp
NT: (Doctorat 3eme cycle. Oceanographie biologique).
PY: 1983
LA: French
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The influence of environmental factors has been studied on population dynamics and structure of Decapoda associated with the corals Pocillopora damicornis  and P. elegans  of French Polynesia and Guam. The 2 main factors are the accumulation of organic matter in the littoral zone, and the hydrodynamic stress of the waves breaking over the coral barriers. Occasional associated Decapoda are dominant on the fringe reefs, whereas symbionts are more abundant on the barrier reefs and the external slopes where coral mucus constitutes the main part of the available food. Species diversity and the equilibrium between occasional associates and symbionts depend on the diversity of the available food: the coral mucus is the limiting factor for the associated fauna.
DE: ecological-associations; population-structure; coral-reefs; Decapoda-; Pocillopora-; symbionts-; ISEW,-French-Polynesia; ISEW,-Guam; environmental-factors; food-availability
CL: Productivity,-Ecosystems,-Species-Interactions:-Species-interactions:-General-1483; Aquatic-Communities:-Habitat-community-studies-1463; Population-Studies:-Population-structure-1441
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 0700883

                                                                    117 of 309
TI: (The population of polychaetous annelids associated with algae of a coral reef in French Polynesia (Moorea Island, Society Is.).
OT: Le peuplement d'annelides polychetes mobiles associe aux algues d'un recif corallien de Polynesie Francaise (ile de Moorea, Archipel de la Societe)
AU: Naim,-O.; Amoureux,-L.
AF: Ec. Prat. Hautes Etudes, 55 rue de Buffon, 75005 Paris, France
SO: BULL.-ECOL. 1982. vol. 13, no. 1, pp. 25-33
IS: ISSN 0395-7217
PY: 1982
LA: French
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A qualitative and quantitative study of polychaetous annelids population associated with algae has been conducted in the Tiahura coral reef complex. In the lagoon, the distribution of annelids over the reef follows that of algae, but their average population density, per m2 of algal covering, varies considerably, increasing steadily from the bank towards the sea. It reaches its maximum (1,900 individuals, 11g/m2) on the reef ridge, a zone of breaking ocean waves. On the other hand, the variation in specific diversity is reversed: it reaches its maximum in the fringing zone and its minimum on the ridge. The polychaetous biocoenosis that has been studied is dominated by consumers of organic matter (Amphinomidae, Nereidae, Opheliidae).
DE: biocenosis-; population-density; species-diversity; coral-reefs; interspecific-relationships; Annelida-; Polychaeta-; quantitative-distribution; algal-settlements; ISE,-Society-I.,-Moorea-I.
CL: Aquatic-Communities:-Habitat-community-studies-1463
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Pacific-Southeast (ISE)
AN: 0699549

                                                                    118 of 309
TI: A numerical experiment on nearshore circulation in standing edge waves.
AU: Kaneko,-A.
AF: Kyushu Univ., Res. Inst. Applied Mechanics, Fukuoka 812, Japan
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1983. vol. 7, no. 3, pp. 271-284
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The unsteady shallow-water vorticity equation dominating nearshore flow on a gently sloping plane beach has been solved by using the implicit finite difference technique under the assumption of constant viscosity over the flow field. The result of computation showed that pairs of nearshore circulation cells are generated through the nonlinear effect of flow in the boundary layer formed by the run-up movement of a standing edge wave along a shoreline and the paired cell has the spacing of half a wavelength of the edge wave. When the leaky-mode standing wave of Lamb with the same wave period as the edge wave and the wave crest parallel to a shoreline was superposed on the edge wave field, the alongshore spacing of circulation cell doubled and seaward flow in the cell concentrated in the narrow zone like a "rip current". Although no effect of breaking waves is considered in the computation, such a mechanism may also generate some kinds of nearshore circulation systems observed in a sea.
DE: edge-waves; water-circulation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0690832

                                                                    119 of 309
TI: The effect of an offshore bank in attenuating waves.
AU: Tucker,-M.J.; Carr,-A.P.; Pitt,-E.G.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Crossway, Taunton, TA1 2DW, UK
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1983. vol. 7, no. 2, pp. 133-144
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Waverider buoys were installed in approximately 16 m of water offshore of the Size-well-Dunwich Bank off the East Coast of England and in approximately 11 m of water inshore of it. Minimum water depth over the bank was approximately 4.5 m at mid-tide level. Simultaneous records were obtained for substantial periods between November 1978 and May 1979. These show negligible attenuation for small waves, but as the offshore waveheight increased, the inshore waveheight tended to saturate at an H sub(s) of about 3 m. The form of the relationship between inshore and offshore waveheight is predicted theoretically assuming that high individual waves which cross the bank are limited by breaking. The theoretical curve agrees well with the measured data. The measured saturation level corresponds to a wave breaking when its height is approximately 0.5 the water depth, which is considerably lower than the usual engineering criterion. However, some published tank results also appear to show the same low value.
DE: water-waves; wave-attenuation; ANE,-British-Isles,-England
ID: wave-measurement
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0690597

                                                                    120 of 309
TI: Prediction of occurrence of breaking waves in deep water. Revision.
AU: Ochi,-M.K.; Tsai,-C.H.
CA: Florida Univ., Gainesville (USA). Dep. Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering
SO: GAINESVILLE,-FL-USA-FU-DCOE 1982. 48 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A131 743/7.
RN: UFL/COEL-TR/044 (UFLCOELTR044)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method to evaluate the frequency of occurrence of breaking waves in deep water is developed based on the joint probability distribution of wave excursion and associated time interval for a non-narrow-band random process. Wave breaking which takes place along an excursion crossing the zero-line as well as that occurs along an excursion above the zero-line are considered. The breaking criterion is obtained from measurements of irregular waves generated in the tank. It is found that the functional relationship between wave height and period at the time of breaking of the irregular waves is by and large different from that known for regular waves.
DE: wave-predicting; breaking-waves; deep-water-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0690386

                                                                    121 of 309
TI: Laboratory study of stratified accelerating shear flow over a rough boundary.
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, UK
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1984. vol. 138, pp. 185-196
PY: 1984
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Experiments are made in which a stratified shear flow, accelerating from rest and containing a level where the direction of flow reverses, is generated over a rough floor. The rate of spread of the turbulent layer depends on the separation of the bars. Some interaction between the turbulence and the internal waves occurs near the edge of the turbulent layer. Wave-breaking is prevalent and the vertical scale of the waves is affected by turbulent eddies. The radiating internal waves are suppressed by replacing the bars by an array of square cubes, but there is continued evidence of features resembling internal waves near the boundary of the turbulent region. Structures are observed which bear some similarities to those found at the food of the near-surface mixing layer in a lake.
DE: fluid-mechanics; turbulent-flow; shear-strength; boundary-layers; waves-; surface-roughness; shear-flow
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Benthic-boundary-layer-2165
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0689915

                                                                    122 of 309
TI: Pollution of the Mediterranean hyponeustal by tar balls.
OT: Zagryaznenie neftyanymi agregatami giponejstali Sredizemnogo morya
AU: Benzhitskij,-A.G.
AF: Inst. Biol. Yuzhn. Morej AN Ukr. S.S.R., Sevastopol', USSR
SO: EHKOL.-MORYA. 1982. no. 8, pp. 92-95
IS: ISSN 0203-4646
PY: 1982
LA: Russian
LS: English; Russian
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Based on studies of spatial distribution of tar balls conducted during the 4th and 5th cruises of the R/V Professor Vodyanitskij  in 1978 the following conclusions are drawn: I) weathering and mineralization lead to breaking of tar balls under the influence of waves; 2) tar balls are brought with surface currents to be cast ashore along the high tide level; 3) as a result of increased periphyton abundance tar balls lose positive buoyancy and sink gradually to be accumulated by bottom sediments. The predominance of oil pollution over the tar ball decomposition results in an extremely high concentration of tar balls in the hyponeustal of the Mediterranean basin as compared to other seas.
DE: tar-balls; periphyton-; oil-pollution; MED-
CL: Pollution:-Characteristics,-behavior-and-fate-1503; Pollution:-Characteristics,-behavior-and-fate-2445
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 0676532

                                                                    123 of 309
TI: Wave evolution over a gradual slope with turbulent friction.
AU: Miles,-J.W.
AF: Inst. Geophys. & Planet. Phys., Univ. California, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1983. vol. 133, pp. 207-216
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: The evolution of a weakly nonlinear, weakly dispersive gravity wave in water of depth d over a bottom of gradual slope  delta  and Chezy friction coefficient C sub(f) is studied. It is found that an initially sinusoidal wave evolves into a periodic sequence of solitary waves with relative amplitude a/d =  alpha  sub(1) = 15 delta /4C sub(f) if  alpha  sub(1) <  alpha  sub(b), where  alpha  sub(b) is the relative amplitude above which breaking occurs. This prediction is supported by observations (Wells 1978) of the evolution of swell over mudflats.
DE: gravity-waves; bottom-friction; wave-breaking; solitary-waves; wave-propagation; numerical-analysis; hydrodynamics-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Benthic-boundary-layer-2165; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0646784

                                                                    124 of 309
TI: Prediction of occurrence of breaking waves in deep water.
AU: Ochi,-M.K.; Tsai,-C.-H.
AF: Coastal and Oceanogr. Eng. Dep., Univ. Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1983. vol. 13, no. 11, pp. 2008-2019
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method to evaluate the frequency of occurrence of breaking waves in deep water is developed based on the joint probability distribution of wave excursion and associated time interval for a non-narrow-band random process. Wave breaking that takes place along an excursion crossing the zero-line as well as that which occurs along an excursion above the zero-line is considered.
DE: wave-predicting; breaking-waves; deep-water
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0644387

                                                                    125 of 309
TI: Longshore motion due to an obliquely incident wave group.
AU: Ryrie,-S.C.
AF: Dep. Comput. Stud. and Math., Bristol Polytech., Bristol BS16 1QY, UK
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1983. vol. 137, pp. 273-284
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Longshore motion generated within the surf zone by obliquely incident breaking waves, and the effect on such motion of variations, caused by wave grouping, in the incident longshore momentum flux, are discussed. The linear long-wave equations are used to describe the motion resulting from the longshore momentum contained in a wave group. This consists of a succession of edge waves which disperse along the beach, and, for the example considered, an eventual steady circulation cell at the position of the wave group. It is suggested that such a cell is always likely to be formed if the wave group is sufficiently localized, and that higher-modenumber edge waves are more likely to be excited. Timescales for the dispersal of the edge waves, and for the decay, are due to bottom friction, of the circulation cell: the authors suggest that the latter may more generally be used, as a timescale for the effect of friction on longshore motion.
DE: longshore-currents; breaking-waves; bottom-friction; wave-wave-interaction
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0644303

                                                                    126 of 309
TI: Physical model study of ship capsizing due to breaking waves.
AU: Rudavsky,-A.B.
AF: Hydro Res. Sci., 3334 Victor Ct., Santa Clara, CA 95050, USA
CO: Oceans '83 Conference, San Francisco, CA (USA), 29 Aug - 1 Sep 1983
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OCEANS-'-83.-EFFECTIVE-USE-OF-THE-SEA:-AN-UPDATE.-SAN-FRANCISCO,-AUGUST-29-SEPTEMBER-1,-1983.-VOLUME-2:-TECHNICAL-PAPERS.-MINERAL-RESOURCES-AND-ENERGY,-NON-MINERAL-RESOURCES,-TRANSPORTATION. 1983. pp. 1082-1084
ST: OCEANS-'-83.
RN: IEEE-83CH1972-9 (IEEE83CH19729)
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Model studies were conducted in two Hydro Research Science (HRS) model basins equipped with wave generators, one of them capable of producing random sea waves. The model was constructed to 1:33 scale, and was calibrated according to current laboratory practices on a specially designed calibration rig shown in figure 3. Weights could be attached to the vessel in such a manner that the center of gravity could be varied over a wide range. Model findings of HRS experiments corraborate the results of other experimental research studies on capsizing, characterizing the phenomenon as almost instantaneous (duration approximately 6 seconds).
DE: breaking-waves; capsizing-; modeling-
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Ocean-operations-2388
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0643928

                                                                    127 of 309
TI: Experimental studies of temperature inversion in the thermocline.
OT: Ehksperimental'nye issledovaniya obrazovaniya inversij temperatury v termokline
AU: Filyushkin,-B.N.
AF: Inst. Okeanol. AN S.S.S.R., Moscow, USSR
SO: OKEANOLOGIYA. 1983. vol. 23, no. 2, pp. 238-243
IS: ISSN 0030-1574
PY: 1983
LA: Russian
LS: English; Russian
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A complete statistical analysis of temperature fluctuations in the thermocline with respect to wind speed variations has been made on the basis of data obtaind in the western Black Sea by the Froude spar buoy. It is shown that intensified shear instability and nonlinear internal waves at increasing wind velocity may result in internal wave breaking at the seasonal thermocline boundaries and in the formation of interlayers with inverse sea water properties.
DE: thermocline-; thermal-structure; internal-waves; wind-speed; circulation-processes; ocean-circulation; statistical-analysis; MED,-Black-Sea
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
AN: 0643891

                                                                    128 of 309
TI: Run-up of solitary waves.
AU: Pedersen,-G.; Gjevik,-B.
AF: Dep. Mech., Univ. Oslo, P.O. Box 1053, Blindern, Oslo 3, Norway
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1983. vol. 135, pp. 283-299
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical model based on a Lagrangian description has been developed for studying run-up of long water waves governed by a set of Boussinesq equations. The performance of the numerical scheme has been tested by comparing with analytical solutions and experimental data. Simulations of the run-up of solitary waves on relatively steep planes (inclination angle > 20 degree ) show surface displacements and run-up heights in good agreement with experiments. For waves with relatively large amplitude the simulations reveal the development of a breaking bore during the backwash. Results for run-up heights in converging and diverging channels are also presented.
DE: wave-runup; solitary-waves; mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0643632

                                                                    129 of 309
TI: Drift velocity at the wave breaking point.
AU: Wang,-H.; Sunamura,-T.; Hwang,-P.A.
AF: Dep. Div. Eng. & Coll. Mar. Stud., Univ. Delaware, Newark, DE 19711, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1982. vol. 6, no. 2, pp. 121-150
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave-tank studies were conducted on the measurement of the drift velocity at the breaking point under different types of breaking waves on a rigid, plane beach. The drift velocity has onshore direction near the surface and close to the bottom; in the main flow column, the drift velocity is always offshore. The offshore drift shows a more uniform vertical distribution than that in the offshore region. The experimental data are compared with theoretical values of three different second-order constant-depth wave theories. Comparisons with data from other sources are also made.
DE: wave-drift-velocity; wave-breaking; waves-on-beaches
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0643390

                                                                    130 of 309
TI: Wave attenuation and wave set-up on a coastal reef.
AU: Gerritsen,-F.
CA: Hawaii Univ., Honolulu (USA). Sea Grant College Program
SO: SEA-GRANT-COOP.-REP.-HAWAII-UNIV. HONOLULU,-HI-USA-UNIHI 1981. 437 pp
NT: UNIHI-SEAGRANT-CR-81-05; Incl. bibliogr.: 186 refs.; Look Lab. Tech. Rep. 48.
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report); Z (Bibliography)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This study deals with the breaking of waves on coastal reefs, with special emphasis on energy dissipation (wave height attenuation), wave spectrum modification and characteristics of wave set-up. It has an engineering perspective; its main objective is to provide the practicing engineer with much needed information on the design conditions for coastal structures. The study consists of a review of existing literature, further development of theoretical concepts, a field study and a hydraulic model study. After a short description of the hydrodynamic processes associated with waves breaking on a reef and the goals and scope of the investigation, the individual chapters deal with: some relevant aspects of nonlinear waves; the significance part bottom friction plays in wave dissipation over a shallow reef; the various aspects of energy dissipation in breaking waves; aspects of wave set-up; effects of a modulating wave train on the wave set-up on the reef; aspects of the wave spectrum and characteristics of the spectrum for various water depths; field experiments and their principal results; and the computational aspects of wave attenuation and wave set-up in respect to the analyses of field and model data.
DE: wave-setup; wave-attenuation; reefs-; wave-processes-on-beaches; coastal-structures; literature-reviews; hydraulic-models; energy-; wave-spectra
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0621643

                                                                    131 of 309
TI: Internal flow structure of short wind waves. Part 2. The streamline pattern.
AU: Okuda,-K.
AF: Geophys. Inst., Fac. Sci., Tohoku Univ., Sendai 980, Japan
SO: J.-OCEANOGR.-SOC.-JAP. 1982. vol. 38, no. 5, pp. 313-322
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Characteristic features of the internal flow field of short wind waves are described mainly on the basis of streamline patterns measured for four different cases of individual wave. The characteristics of flow in the high vorticity region are investigated, and it is argued that the high vorticity region is not supported steadily in individual waves but that growth and attenuation in individual waves repeats systematically, without no severe breaking. By comparing the measured streamline profiles with those predicted from wave profiles by the use of a water-wave theory, it is found that the flow of the wind waves studied cannot be predicted, even approximately from the surface displacements, in contrast to the case of pure irrotational water waves.
DE: wind-waves; streamlines-; wave-properties
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0594037

                                                                    132 of 309
TI: Wave-current interactions on a shallow reef (Nicaragua, Central America).
AU: Roberts,-H.H.; Suhayda,-J.N.
AF: Coastal Studies Inst., Louisiana State Univ., Baton Rouge, LA 70803-7527, USA
SO: CORAL-REEFS. 1983. vol. 1, no. 4, pp. 209-214
IS: ISSN 0722-4028
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements of wave height and currents associated with normal trade-wind conditions have been made on a linear reef that parallels the northern and northeastern coast of Great Corn Island, eastern shelf of Nicaragua, Central America. Analyses indicate that waves breaking over the reef crest generate lagoonward flow normal to the reef. Average reef-normal flow was in the range of 10 to 20 cm/s; however, individual wave surges reached values of up to 180 cm/s. The strength of the over-the-reef flow is modulated by the tide. Lagoon currents are weak (2-5 cm/s) and change direction with the tide as the lagoon fills and drains. Long-period oscillations in water level (30 s to 20 min) and in the current were observed, and may be important in transporting fine-grained sediments out of the reef-lagoon system. Strong, short-duration surge currents (< 5 s) transport coarse sediment from the breaker zone to the seaward margin of the backreef lagoon.
DE: wave-height; current-data; coral-reefs; breaking-waves; lagoons-; ASW,-Nicaragua,-Great-Corn-I.
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coral-reefs-2274
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 0589563

                                                                    133 of 309
TI: HEXOS -- humidity exchange over the sea. An experiment proposal.
AU: Smith,-S.D.; Katsaros,-K.B.
CA: Bedford Inst. of Oceaography, Dartmouth, N.S. (Canada). Atl. Oceanogr. Lab
CO: Workshop on Humidity Exchange over the Sea, BIO, Dartmouth, N.S. (Canada), 28 Apr 1981
SO: REP.-SER.-BIO. 1981. 133 pp
NT: Available on microfiche only; Issue No. BI-R-81-17.
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A NATO-sponsored workshop on humidity exchange over the sea was at BIO from April 28 - May 1, 1981. The purposes of this workshop were to review present knowledge and to draw up a scientific plant for an interdisciplinary experiment to investigate evaporation from the sea surface in moderate to high wind speeds, and the contribution of breaking waves and spray to this evaporation. In this report the proposed scientific plan is followed by abstracts of the paper presented and a comprehensive reference list.
DE: evaporation-; surface-topography; correlaton-analysis; conferences-; wave-breaking; spray-
ID: wind-speed; HEXOS-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; General-Aspects:-Conferences,-meetings,-etc.-2106
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0588113

                                                                    134 of 309
TI: Wind dependence of underwater ambient noise.
AU: Kerman,-B.R.; Evans,-D.L.; Watts,-D.R.; Halpern,-D.
AF: Boundary Layer Res. Div., Atmos. Environ. Serv., Downsview, Ont., Canada M3H 5T4
SO: BOUNDARY-LAYER-METEOROL. 1983. vol. 26, no. 2, pp. 105-113
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Sound generated underwater by wind waves displays two sensitivities to wind speed depending on whether the waves are breaking. A historical review is presented of several experimental studies over the years, as well as new results obtained at a relatively quiet, deep equatorial Pacific site. The duration of the experiment, the multiple high frequency bands as well as the desirable acoustic attributes of the site are useful in establishing the wind sensitivity, and its variability. The results are compared to a recent theoretical model of sound generation by oscillating bubbles in breaking waves.
DE: underwater-technology; acoustic-measurements; boundary-layers; meteorology-; waves-; sound-propagation; wind-waves; oscillations-; acoustics-; IS,-Equatorial-Pacific
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Propagation-of-sound-2203
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0572592

                                                                    135 of 309
TI: Concerning the breakup of waves above an underwater slope.
AU: Leont'-Yev,-I.O.
AF: Address not stated
SO: OCEANOL.-ACAD.-SCI.-USSR. 1981. vol. 21, no. 6, pp. 696-699
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A physical model of the dissipation of wave energy in the surf zone is examined. A special parameter--the breakup coefficient, is introduced and is employed for quantatively estimating the breakup intensity as a function of the initial wave parameters for features of the underwater slope zone. The results make it possible to determine conditions under which waves may decay in the surf zone without breaking up, and also to forecast the type of breakup on a given bottom topography, as a function of the slope of waves in the open sea. It is noted that the analytic results are in agreement with observations.
DE: wave-energy; energy-dissipation; slopes-; bottom-topography-effects; hydraulic-models
CL: Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2142
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0569548

                                                                    136 of 309
TI: Prediction and occurrence of breaking waves in deep water.
AU: Ochi,-M.K.; Tsai,-C.H.
CA: Florida Univ., Gainesville (USA). Coast Oceanogr. Eng. Dep
SO: TECH.-REP.-FLA.-UNIV.-COAST-OCEANOGR.-ENG.-DEP. 1982. 34 pp
RN: UFL/COEL-TR/044 (UFLCOELTR044)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method to evaluate the frequency of occurrence of breaking waves in deep water is developed based on the joint probability distribution of wave excursion and associated time interval for a non-narrow-band random process. Wave breaking which takes place along an excursion crossing the zero-line as well as that which occurs along an excursion above the zero-line are considered. The results of numerical computations indicates that the probabililty of occurrence of breaking waves increases significantly with increase in the 4th moment of the spectrum irrespective of sea severity.
DE: breaking-waves; deep-water; wave-spectra; prediction-; statistical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0569487

                                                                    137 of 309
TI: Wave kinematics and sediment suspension at wave breaking point.
AU: Hwang,-P.A.
CA: Delaware Univ., Newark (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1983. vol. 43, no. 12, pt.1, 179 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D.; Order No.: FAD DA8309881.
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: The flow field and sediment suspension at wave breaking point were studied in the laboratory. The flow field concerns mainly the drift velocity on sloping beach. The drift velocity profiles as well as the mean drift velocity strength were established through laboratory measurements. Various existing theories were examined and compared with laboratory results. A sediment suspension model was proposed based on the diffusion model including the considerations of the fall velocity reduction in an oscillatory flow field, the sediment grading and the degree of agitation in the flow field. The model reduced the dependence of the data fitted coefficients to a minimum. Comparison of this model with data from various sources was made.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-drift-velocity; kinematics-; suspended-sediments
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554933

                                                                    138 of 309
TI: Shock pressures from deep water breaking waves.
AU: Kjeldsen,-S.P.
AF: Norwegian Hydrodynamic Lab., Div. Ship & Ocean Lab., Trondheim, Norway
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 567-582
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In the present study, experiments in the laboratory are described in which measurements were made of impact pressures, impact duration and resultant shock forces on a small plate installed in a wave flume, at a position where deep water waves were forced to break. Experiments were performed with the plate in a vertical and in a tilted position that allowed slamming from below. Higher shock pressures were found for the tilted position and this is shown to be due to the interior orientation of particle velocities in steep asymmetric waves. Frequencies of occurrences were high. Every time a spilling breaker struck the plate a shock was detected. Also non-breaking waves gave rise to shocks in some cases. The magnitude of shock peaks is shown to be a function of relative wave steepness.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; breaking-waves; shock-pressure; wave-height; controlled-conditions; wave-forces
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554789

                                                                    139 of 309
TI: Numerical calculations of forces from breaking waves.
AU: Vinje,-T.; Brevig,-P.
AF: Univ. Trondheim, Norway
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 547-563
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical time-stepping procedure is presented, calculating the inertia forces from breaking waves on submerged cylinders or the forces on bodies being hit by plunging breakers. The forces from breaking waves on a submerged, horizontal, circular cylinder have been calculated for varying depths of submergence. The results of the calculations are in good agreement with linear theory except for smaller depths of submergence. The breaking of the waves is, however, strongly influenced by the presence of the cylinder even for fairly large depths of submergence. Forces on a vertical wall and a horizontal cylinder being hit by a plunging breaker have been calculated, showing good agreement with design forces recommended by others, though the numerical model does not take into account entrainment of air into the fluid and formation of foam.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; breaking-waves; wave-forces; loads-forces; hydrodynamic-loads; cylindrical-bodies; circular-cylinders; mathematical-analysis
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554784

                                                                    140 of 309
TI: Comparison of numerical and analytical results for waves that are starting to break.
AU: McIver,-P.; Peregrine,-D.H.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. Bristol, UK
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 203-215
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A variety of calculations of unsteady deep-water waves in which they start to break by forming a jet have been made using the method of Longuet-Higgins and Cokelet (1976). To develop understanding of the breaking process the results of these calculations are compared with an analytic solution and with ad hoc analytical expressions. First comparison is made with a different numerical solution kindly made available by Vinje and Brevig. This gives confidence in the accuracy of the computations which is briefly discussed. The variety of solutions that have been obtained make it difficult to define parameters for describing the jet behaviour. Almost the only common behaviour is a convergence of fluid particles towards the jet. A geometrical representation of the rate-of-strain tensor has led us to model the flow field by a few discrete sources outside the fluid.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; breaking-waves; jets-; mathematical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554646

                                                                    141 of 309
TI: Breaking effects in standing and reflected waves.
AU: Srokosz,-M.A.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., UK
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 182-184
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical method, based on that developed by Longuet-Higgins and Cokelet is used to study breaking effects in standing and reflected waves. It is found that the presence of reflected waves can accelerate, delay or even prevent the breaking of the incident waves and that these effects depend primarily on the initial phase difference between the incident and reflected waves. The presence of reflected waves can in some cases increase the velocities found in the plunging jet, when breaking occurs. For standing waves breaking is related to the instability which develops at the crest of the wave when the downward acceleration there exceeds that of gravity. The instability appears to be of the Rayleigh-Taylor type and leads to the ejection of fluid vertically at the crest. Therefore when the downward acceleration of the crest exceeds that of gravity the wave may be considered to be breaking.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; breaking-waves; wave-reflection; standing-waves; mathematical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554616

                                                                    142 of 309
TI: Experimental study on irregular wave deformation due to depth-controlled wave breaking.
AU: Sawaragi,-T.; Iwata,-K.
AF: Dep. of Civil Eng., Osaka Univ., Japan
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 166-181
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper discusses an irregular wave deformation due to depth-controlled wave breaking from experiments and a numerical calculation. First, laboratory experiments were made with irregular waves of 7 different spectral shapes on different beach slopes. The following facts are pointed out: (1) the zero-down-crossing wave is better than the zero-upcrossing wave to describe statistical waves in the surf zone; (2) breaker types are well classified by the surf similarity parameter, and the classification of breaker types is very similar to the case of irregular wave; (3) breaker index presented for the regular wave generally gives higher values for the irregular wave; and (4) equation to predict the breaking wave height is proposed. Secondly, a numerical calculation method based on a semi-linear wave theory is proposed. The proposed method is shown to give an approximation in predicting changes of wave height and period due to shoaling and breaking.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; breaking-waves; deformation-; mathematical-analysis; wave-height; shoaling-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554603

                                                                    143 of 309
TI: Interaction between finite amplitude waves and opposing current on sloping sea bed.
AU: Sakai,-S.; Otsuka,-N.; Saeki,-H.; Ozaki,-A.
AF: Iwate Univ., Japan
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 367-375
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In order to clarify the breaker indexes effected by the shoaling and the current, a lot of experiments were carried out under several conditions. The bottom slope were 1:50, 1:30 and 1:15. Consequently it became clear that the breaker depth index h sub(b)/Lo and the breaker height index H sub(b)/Ho' depended on the slope S, the deep water wave steepness Ho'/Lo and the current index q* which indicated the normalized unit discharge of the current. The breaker types were classified into four types by S, Ho'/Lo and q*. The experiments of the deformations of waves on the slope S = 1:30 clarified that the changes of the wave height and the wave length according to the change of depth depended on Ho'/Lo and q*.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; shoaling-waves; breaking-waves; nearshore-dynamics; deformation-
ID: sloping-seabed
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554576

                                                                    144 of 309
TI: A parametric flow for breaking waves.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,-M.S.
AF: Dep. Appl. Math., Cambridge Univ., UK
CO: Int. Symp. on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING. Norwegian-Inst.-Technology,-Trondheim-Norway;-Norwegian-Hydrodynamic-Lab 1982. pp. 121-135
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Some exact solutions of the equations for inviscid time-dependent, free-surface flow are discussed. One solution, in which the surface profile is a parametric cubic curve, appears to correspond remarkably with the profile of the forward face of a plunging breaker. The aspect ratio of the "tube" is 0.3629. Comparisons are made with observed and numerically calculated profiles.
DE: hydrodynamics-; offshore-engineering; breaking-waves; equations-; mathematical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0554573

                                                                    145 of 309
TI: Nearshore features of the East Australian Current system.
AU: Cresswell,-G.R.; Ellyett,-C.; Legeckis,-R.; Pearce,-A.F.
AF: Div. Oceanogr., CSIRO Mar. Lab., P.O. Box 21, Cronulla, N.S.W. 2230, Australia
SO: AUST.-J.-MAR.-FRESHWAT.-RES. 1983. vol. 34, no. 1, pp. 105-114
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An airborne infrared scanner was used to map fronts and wakes that occurred at New South Wales headlands and islets. The major front was interpreted as consisting of warm water flowing southward to Point Plomer and then separating from the coast at a 60 degree  angle. Cooler southern water flowed northward to the front and was probably entrained into it. Visual observation from the air showed a colour change and breaking waves at the front. A system of cool northward flowing littoral currents appeared to occur independently of the offshore currents. The relation of the front to the overall East Australian Current system could be interpreted from data obtained by the NOAA-6 satellite and a research vessel at the time.
DE: shelf-fronts; current-observations; nearshore-dynamics; current-data; PSE,-East-Australian-Current
CL: Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Regional-studies,-expeditions-and-data-reports-2144; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Eastward (PSE)
AN: 0534843

                                                                    146 of 309
TI: The characteristics of breaking waves, bubble clouds, and near-surface currents observed using side-scan sonar.
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.; Hall,-A.J.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, UK
SO: CONT.-SHELF-RES. 1983. vol. 1, no. 4, pp. 353-384
IS: ISSN 0278-4343
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An inverted 248 kHz two-component side-scan sonar mounted on the sea bed in a mean depth of 34 m has been used to detect the clouds of bubbles produced by breaking surface waves. The sonar has a range of about 150 m. The breaking waves appear on the sonograph records as short-lived intense echoes, and form patterns which can be explained in terms of the behaviour of groups of waves in which the highest are breaking. The bubble clouds are slightly elongated in the wave direction when they are first formed and, in winds of 5.1 m s super(-1), have lifetimes of up to about 5 min. Soon after a wave breaks, the horizontal motion of the fluid in which the bubbles are formed becomes similar to that of the surroundings, and the bubbles continue to be advected by the near-surface currents. The rate of drift of bubble clouds along the directions of the sonal beams allows the components of the currents to be measured. The sonographs show that large changes in currents can occur over horizontal distances of as little as 5 to 10 m when fronts are passing.
DE: breaking-waves; air-bubbles; surface-currents; side-scan-sonar; oceanic-fronts; ocean-circulation; hydrologic-fronts
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0517537

                                                                    147 of 309
TI: A preliminary review of nonspectral wave properties: Grouping, wave breaking, and "freak" waves.
AU: LeBlond,-P.H.
CA: Department Fish. & Oceans, Ottawa, Ont. (Canada). Mar. Environ. Data Serv. Br
SO: CAN.-CONTRACT.-REP.-HYDROGR.-OCEAN-SCI. 1982. no. 1, 75 pp
NT: Incl. bibliogr.: 80 ref.
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: B (Book); Z (Bibliography)
AB: This report presents a review of some aspects of wind-waves which are not usually included in the specification of the sea-state: wave groups, "freak" waves, deep-water breaking, and the occurrence of extreme wave slopes. Available observations pertinent to each one of these topics are briefly reviewed together with an outline of relevant theoretical ideas. The relevance of each type of phenomenon to offshore design conditions is discussed. An assessment of the state of theory and observations on all four topics shows that, although much recent progress has been made, remaining gaps in information and understanding are too wide to allow a precise account of their influence to be made in offshore design wave estimation. Because of their limited instrumental response, Waverider buoys cannot yield data which can provide clear answers to questions pertaining to the very strongly nonlinear conditions associated with breaking and extreme wave slopes. The authors do however make some suggestions for some data analysis which may contribute to the understanding of wave slope statistics and groupiness characterization.
DE: wave-analysis; wave-dynamics; wave-measuring; wind-waves; wave-slope; wave-groups; wave-breaking; wave-steepness; sea-state
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0514164

                                                                    148 of 309
TI: Wave kinematics and sediment suspension at wave breaking point.
AU: Hwang,-P.A.; Wang,-H.
CA: Delaware Univ., Newark (USA). Dep. of Civil Eng
SO: TECH.-REP.-DE.-UNIV.-DEP.-CIV.-ENG. NEWARK,-DE-USA-DU-DCE 1982. 180 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A119 906/6; Contract N00014-81-K-0297.
RN: CE-82-27; TR-13 (TR13)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: The flow field and sediment suspension at wave breaking point were studied in the laboratory. The flow field concerns mainly the drift velocity on sloping beach. The drift velocity profiles as well as the mean drift velocity strength were established through laboratory measurements. Various existing theories were examined and compared with laboratory results. A sediment suspension model was proposed based on the diffusion model including considerations of the fall velocity reduction in an oscillatory flow field, the sediment grading, and the degree of agitation in the flow field.
DE: kinematics-; resuspended-sediments; breaking-waves; wave-drift-velocity
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Dynamics-of-lakes-and-rivers-2171; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Benthic-boundary-layer-2165
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0513924

                                                                    149 of 309
TI: On the statistical properties of sea waves.
AU: Yuan,-Y.
CA: North Carolina State Univ., Raleigh (USA)
SO: DISS.-ABST.-INT.-PT.-B-SCI.-and-ENG. 1983. vol. 43, no. 12, Pt.1, 94 pp
NT: Diss. Ph.D.: Order No.: FAD DA8308590.
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); U (Thesis-or-Dissertation)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Joint distribution of extremes and zero-crossing intervals of sea waves is an important quantity based on which marginal distributions of extremes and zero-crossing intervals may be obtained. An analysis of the geometry of random waves is carried out which gives the relation between extremes and zero-crossing intervals. This relation is then applied to linear waves, breaking waves and nonlinear waves. For breaking waves, a model for wave breaking is first established. For nonlinear waves, the Stokes wave model is used for subsequent analysis. The joint distributions and marginal distributions derived in this work are compared with available laboratory experimental results and field observations.
DE: waveform-analysis; wave-analysis; statistical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0511677

                                                                    150 of 309
TI: Unified model for the evolution of nonlinear water waves.
AU: Witting,-J.M.
CA: Naval Research Lab., Washington, DC (USA)
SO: 1982. 68 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A122 822/0.
RN: NRL-MR-5001 (NRLMR5001)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper gives details of a new model of water waves that describes wave propagation over long distances accurately, at low cost, and for a wide variety of physical situations. The analysis and numerical methods selected for computers solution are given in some detail. The model uses exact prognostic equations, and a high order expansion to relate variables at each time step. The accuracy of the model is demonstrated most completely for solitary wave propagation, where model results are compared to exact results. It is found that the model results are much more accurate for high solitary waves than are earlier, Boussinesq-type theories, and give good results for waves so high that they are almost breaking. The capability of the model to treat a variety of situations is demonstrated for colliding solitary waves, nonlinear dispersive wave trains, waves in channels of varying breadth, and undular bores.
DE: wave-propagation; water-waves; solitary-waves; models-; ocean-circulation
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0511513

                                                                    151 of 309
TI: Suspended sediment under waves.
AU: Nielsen,-P.; Green,-M.O.; Coffey,-F.C.
CA: Sydney Univ. (Australia). Coastal Studies Unit
SO: SYDNEY-AUSTRALIA-SU-CSU 1982. 162 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A121 122/6; Grant N00014-80-G-0001.
RN: CSU-TR-82/6 (CSUTR826)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new, very simple and dependable field sediment sampler has been developed. It is a multi-siphon device that samples suspended sand from seven elevations simultaneously. The 65 concentration profiles that have been obtained so far are presented, complete with hydrodynamics and bed sediment data. The profiles were measured under breaking and non-breaking waves in a wide range of coastal environments all over Australia. These data together with a review of oscillatory boundary layer flow and the motion of suspended sand in an accelerated non-uniform flow lead to a range of new insights into the processes of sediment entrainment under waves.
DE: sediment-samplers; sampling-; suspended-sediment; design-
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Methods-and-instruments-2262
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0511350

                                                                    152 of 309
TI: Coherence between stratification and shear in the upper ocean.
AU: Rubenstein,-D.M.; Newman,-F.C.; Lambert,-R.,Jr.
CA: Science Applications, Inc., McLean, VA (USA)
SO: MCLEAN,-VA-USA-SAI 1982. 23 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A120 998/0; Contract N00014-81-C-0075.
RN: SAI-82-614-WA (SAI82614WA)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A number of mechanisms are known to be responsible for the interdependence of stratification and shear. These include interleaving, internal waves, and instabilities such as double diffusion and breaking internal waves. In the strongly stratified seasonal thermocline the shear behaves approximately as S2 is directly proportional to N2 (Grabowski, 1980). Patterson et al. (1981) showed that N2 and S2 are better correlated over vertical scales of 30 meters or more. This calculation of cross coherence between simultaneous profiles of N2 and S2 was intended to investigate the possibility of a limiting vertical length scale below which the correlation of N2 and S2 is small or zero, and above which the correlation is good. On the basis of a limited data set (9 YVETTE profiles), N2 and S2 appear in general to be well correlated at wavelengths larger than about 5-10 meters, except in the presence of large vertical geostrophic shear.
DE: stratified-shear-flow; ocean-circulation; internal-waves; instability-
ID: cross-coherence
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0505270

                                                                    153 of 309
TI: Nearshore features of the East Australian Current system.
AU: Cresswell,-G.R.; Ellyett,-C.; Legeckis,-R.; Pearce,-A.F.
AF: Div. Oceanogr., CSIRO Marine Lab., P.O. Box 21, Cronulla, N.S.W. 2230, Australia
SO: AUST.-J.-MAR.-FRESHWAT.-RES. 1983. vol. 34, no. 1, pp. 105-114
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An airborne infrared scanner was used to map fronts and wakes that occurred at New South Wales headlands and islets. The major front was interpreted as consisting of warm water flowing southward to Point Plomer and then separating from the coast at a 60 degree  angle. Cooler southern water flowed northward to the front and was probably entrained into it. Visual observation from the air showed a colour change and breaking waves at the front. A system of cool northward flowing littoral currents appeared to occur independently of the offshore currents. The relation of the front to the overall East Australian Current system could be interpreted from data obtained by the NOAA-6 satellite and a research vessel at the time.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; oceanic-fronts; wakes-; remote-sensing; nearshore-currents; PSE,-Australia,-New-South-Wales,-Point-Plomer; PSE,-East-Australian-Current
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Eastward (PSE)
AN: 0493150

                                                                    154 of 309
TI: Satellite-sensed internal wave features off the south west Cape Coast.
AU: Nelson,-G.; Shannon,-L.V.
AF: Sea Fisheries Res. Inst., Private Bag X2, Rogge Bay, 8012, South Africa
CO: 5. National Oceanographic Symposium, Grahamstown (South Africa), 24 Jan 1983
SO: FIFTH-NATIONAL-OCEANOGRAPHIC-SYMPOSIUM.-24-28-JANUARY-1983.-RHODES-UNIVERSITY,-GRAHAMSTOWN.-ABSTRACTS. Council-for-Scientific-and-Indust.-Res.-South-Africa;-SANCOR-South-Africa 1983. pp. B 45
RN: S.228 (S228)
PY: 1983
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: LANDSAT images of wavelike surface banding some hundred kilometers in length and two to four kilometers in wavelength in the coastal zone stretching from Cape Agulhas to Cape Town are presented. These features, which are observable because of a change in surface roughness, are most likely zones of small scale turbulence, resulting from the breaking of deep ocean internal waves moving up the continental slope. The stability of such waves, given the bottom topography of the zone and Brunt-Vaeisaelae frequency profiles is examined for various cases.
DE: internal-waves; satellite-sensing; PSW,-South-Africa,-Cape-Peninsula
ID: LANDSAT-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166; Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Remote-sensing-2393
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Westward (PSW)
AN: 0492942

                                                                    155 of 309
TI: Determination of the measurements of sloping breakwaters taking into account the random character of swell.
OT: Le dimentionnement des digues a talas: Prise en compte du caractere aleatoire de la houle
AU: Tenaud,-R.; Coeffe,-Y.; Feuillet,-J.
AF: G. Serv. Tech. Cent. Ports Marit. et Voies Navigables
SO: BULL.-PERM.-INT.-ASSOC.-NAVIG.-CONGR.-BULL.-ASSOC.-INT.-PERM.-CONGR.-NAVIG. 1981. vol. 40, no. 3, pp. 51-66
PY: 1981
LA: French
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This article presents three series of tests of breakwater stability on a reduced scale model with random and regular non-breaking waves. These waves have shown that the design wave height to be used in a stability formula is higher than the significant wave height of the spectrum and depends on the storm duration. It is concluded that the H sub(z'1/10) characteristic value should be chosen as design wave height and that a 5 to 10 % damage could be accepted. This leads to an increase of the armour unit weight of 30 to 50% in comparison with the use of the significant wave heigth in a stability formula.
DE: breakwaters-; wave-effects; wave-height; design-wave; significant-wave-height
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0491862

                                                                    156 of 309
TI: A field observation of wave kinematics in the surf zone.
AU: Mizuguchi,-M.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Fac. Sci. & Eng., Chuo Univ., Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo, Japan
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, pp. 91-107
NT: Orig. Publ. Proc. 28 Japan Conf. Coast. Eng., Nov. 1981 (Ja).
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A field observation was conducted in order to investigate the steady fluid motion in the surf zone. In the 12 min. observation, both the water surface elevation and the horizontal velocities were measured at several points on a 20 m by 30 m grid for the purpose of evaluating each term in the equation of water motion. It was found in analysis that the motion during the observation time was not steady. A cross spectral analysis revealed that the unsteady motion pertained to an on-offshore standing wave. The author concludes that the observed wave field with periods up to 12 min consisted of both standing waves of longer periods and progressive breaking waves of shorter periods.
DE: fluid-motion; breaking-waves; standing-waves; surf-zone; wave-period; INW,-Japan
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 0491074

                                                                    157 of 309
TI: Study on water particle velocities of shoaling and breaking waves.
AU: Isobe,-M.; Horikawa,-K.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Yokohama Natl. Univ., Japan
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, pp. 109-123
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this paper, the wave shoaling problem is analyzed by the energy flux method in which the fifth-order Stokes and the third-order cnoidal wave theories are used appropriately according to the applicable range. This results in smooth wave height change from deep to shallow water. Various wave properties such as the wave profile, water particle velocities and pressure can be easily calculated from this wave height change. For the surf zone, experimental results show that the relative velocity amplitude approaches a constant value for a mild bottom slope. However, further investigation is needed to predict the velocity field accurately.
DE: shoaling-waves; breaking-waves; surf-zone; orbital-velocity; wave-height; wave-velocity
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0491047

                                                                    158 of 309
TI: Laboratory measurements of velocity field structure in the surf zone by LDV.
AU: Nadaoka,-K.; Kondoh,-T.
AF: Littoral Drift Lab., Hydraul. Eng. Div. Port & Harbour Res. Inst., Minist. Transp., Japan
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, pp. 125-145
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A series of measurements have been made to clarify the structure of internal velocity field within the surf zone by using a laser-Doppler velocimeter. The measurements establsh that the velocity field within the surf zone is clearly divided into two regions of the transition zone and the bore establishment zone. Further, it is found that the velocity field within the bore establishment zone consists of the upper layer and the bottom layer. The former is characterized by the existence of large scale eddies containing most of entrained air bubbles and small scale turbulence associated with them, whereas the latter is characterized by the coexistence of the small scale turbulence originated from the upper layer and the bottom originated turbulence.
DE: velocity-measurement; surf-zone; breaking-waves; wave-properties
ID: internal-velocity-field
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0491027

                                                                    159 of 309
TI: Sediment suspension due to breaking waves.
AU: Shibayama,-T.; Horikawa,-K.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Tokyo, Japan
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, pp. 163-176
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: In order to investigae on-offshore sediment transport mechanism and two dimensional beach transformation, sediment movement under the agitation of wave breaking was considered. Sediment movement in the vicinity of wave breaking point was observed in a wave flume and sediment concentration was measured both in the wave flume and on natural beaches. The sediment movement process was divided into the following two: I) sediment suspension due to vortex which was created by wave plunging and II) sediment movement under the influence of turbulent motion. A heuristic model was presented to simulate the sediment motion and was compared with laboratory phenomena.
DE: breaking-waves; resuspended-sediments; sediment-transport; beach-erosion
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0491003

                                                                    160 of 309
TI: Field measurement of interfacial phenomena in two-layer flow.
AU: Nakano,-W.; Yakuwa,-T.; Ohtani,-M.
AF: Dep. Eng. Sci., Hokkaido Univ., Japan
CO: 29. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering Tokyo (Japan) (1982)
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, p. 295
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Interfacial waves and their breaking in a natural two-layer flow are studied by echo-sounding and spectral analysis. The measured breaking interfacial waves show the same feature as that of wind generated surface waves. The evolution of interfacial waves are explained as the Benjamin-Feir type instability.
DE: multiphase-flow; interface-phenomena; wave-breaking; Benjamin-Feir-instability; internal-waves; measurement-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0490610

                                                                    161 of 309
TI: Energy partition in waves and breaking processes.
AU: Tsuchiya,-Y.; Tsutsui,-S.
AF: Disaster Prev. Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., Japan
CO: 29. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering Tokyo (Japan) (1982)
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, p. 281
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A breaking mechanism is investigated based on the partition low of wave energies. Kinetic energy initiates to increase before waves break due to the decrease in potential energy. The partition rate of wave energies, therefore, becomes unbalanced, waves fall into an unstable state as a whole, and they finally break.
DE: wave-energy; wave-breaking
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0490598

                                                                    162 of 309
TI: Pragmatic calculation of the breaking wave height and angle behind structures.
AU: Kraus,-N.C.
AF: Nearshore Environ. Res. Cent.
CO: 29. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering Tokyo (Japan) (1982)
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, p. 280
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical model is developed for estimating the longshore distribution of the breaking wave height and angle behind structures under simplified conditions. Comparison with field and laboratory data shows good agreement. The range of validity of the model is also discussed.
DE: wave-height; breaking-waves; mathematical-models; wave-direction; coastal-structures
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0490569

                                                                    163 of 309
TI: Drift velocity at the wave breaking point.
AU: Wang,-H.; Sunamura,-T.; Hwang,-P.A.
AF: Univ. Delaware, Dep. Civ. Eng., Newark, DE 19711, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1982. vol. 6, no. 2, pp. 121-150
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
NT: 3 tables, 18 figs.: Append. 2 tables, 1 fig.
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave-tank studies were conducted on the measurement of the drift velocity at the breaking point under different types of breaking waves on a rigid, plane beach. The drift velocity has onshore direction near the surface and close to the bottom; in the main flow column, the drift velocity is always offshore. The offshore drift velocity shows a more uniform vertical distribution than that in the offshore region. The experimental data are compared with theoretical values of three different second-order constant-depth wave theories. Comparisons with data from other sources are also made.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-processes-on-beaches; nearshore-dynamics; drift-; laboratory-tests; mathematical-models; coastal-engineering
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0473957

                                                                    164 of 309
TI: The breaking wave force acting on the segment of circular cylinder.
AU: Sawaragi,-T.; Nochino,-M.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Osaka Univ., Japan
CO: 29. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering Tokyo (Japan) (1982)
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, p. 291
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The breaking wave force on a segment of circular cylinder is studied. The measured time history of the force due to the breaking wave shows rapid rise to its maximum. The results of both experiments and theory show that the maximum magnitude of force is inversely related to the time needed for the force rise to its maximum.
DE: cylindrical-bodies; wave-forces; breaking-waves
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0473803

                                                                    165 of 309
TI: Experimental study of waves on beaches with a protoype wave flume.
AU: Kajima,-R.; Maruyama,-K.; Shimizu,-T.; Sakakiyama,-T.; Saito,-S.
AF: Cent. Res. Inst. Electr. Power Ind., Japan
CO: 29. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering Tokyo (Japan) (1982)
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, p. 281
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Experiments are conducted by using waves of near-prototype scale. Wave height and current data are obtained by a synchronous system of 16 mm cinecameras and electromagnetic current meters. Shoaling and breaking of waves and fluid motion under waves are discussed in comparison with finite amplitude wave theories.
DE: finite-amplitude-waves; shoaling-waves; wave-processes-on-beaches; wave-breaking; fluid-motion
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0473788

                                                                    166 of 309
TI: Experimental study on the turbulence structure under breaking waves.
AU: Aono,-T.; Ohashi,-M.; Hattori,-M.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Chuo Univ., Japan
CO: 29. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering Tokyo (Japan) (1982)
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1982. vol. 25, p. 282
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Eulerian velocity field in the surf zone on a model beach is measured by means of a split-hot film anemometer system. Spatial and temporal characteristics of the velocity field indicate that the turbulence generated by breaking waves has very strong three dimensional properties.
DE: Eulerian-velocity-field; surf-zone; wave-processes-on-beaches; wave-breaking; turbulence-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0473767

                                                                    167 of 309
TI: A system for measuring bottom profile, waves and currents in the high energy nearshore environment.
AU: Sallenger,-A.H.,Jr.; Howard,-P.C.; Fletcher,-C.H.,III; Howd,-P.A.
AF: U.S. Geol. Surv., Menlo Park, CA 94025, USA
SO: MAR.-GEOL. 1983. vol. 51, no. 1-2, pp. 63-76
PY: 1983
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new data-acquisition system capable of measuring waves, currents and the nearshore profile in breaking waves as high as 5 m has been developed and successfully field-tested. Components of the mechanical system are a sled carrying a vertical mast, a double-drum winch placed landward of the beach, and a line that runs from one drum of the winch around three blocks, which are the corners of a right triangle, to the other drum of the winch. The sled is attached to the shore-normal side of the triangular line arrangement and is pulled offshore by one drum of the winch and onshore by the other. The profile is measured as the sled is towed along the shore-normal transect using an infrared rangefinder mounted landward of the winch and optical prisms mounted on top of the sled's mast.
DE: data-acquisition; bottom-topography; waves-; currents-; bottom-currents; nearshore-dynamics; oceanographic-equipment
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Benthic-boundary-layer-2165
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0472558

                                                                    168 of 309
TI: Assessing the capsize resistance of trawlers.
AU: Ferdinande,-V.
AF: State Univ. Ghent, Belgium
SO: NAV.-ARCHIT. 1982. p. E203
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: It has been suggested that some trawlers and similar vessels capsized because of the impact of breaking waves on their side. In the present investigation, the considered heeling moment is that excited by the impact of a breaking wave, hitting the ship broadside over its total lateral surface. Here the authors adopt the crude assumption that the resultant force F is proportional to the lateral area S above the water line, and acting in the centre of this area. It is commonly assumed that in dynamic equilibrium a hydrodynamic reaction force of equal magnitude acts at a point beneath the water line of half the draught T. the heeling moment, in the upright position of the vessel, is then Fh, h, being the vertical distance from F to the water line plus T/2. The curve of this heeling moment versus  Phi  divided by  Delta  is superimposed upon the righting lever curve, but the shape is merely schematical, though Fh/ Phi  cos super(2) Phi  might be an acceptable formulation.
DE: trawlers-; ship-stability; wave-effects; breaking-waves; energy-transfer
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Practical-Aspects-of-Fisheries:-Fishing-vessels-and-harbors-1562
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 0465038

                                                                    169 of 309
TI: Surf zone properties and on/offshore sediment transport.
AU: Yang,-W.-C.; Wang,-H.
CA: Delaware Univ., Newark, DE (USA). Dep. Civil Engineering
SO: NEWARK,-DE-USA-DU 1982. no. 12, 219 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A118 442/3; Contract N00014-81-K-0297.
RN: CE-82-25, TR-12 (TR12)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The surf zone properties and the on/offshore sediment transport rate were studied. A non-dimensional surf zone parameter was obtained by taking the ratio of natural swash period to wave period. This parameter, in addition to its wide application in describing the breaker types, was pertinent to describing the flow patterns in surf zone and defining the region of validity of the similarity solutions. A similarity model was applied to describe the flow field of breaking waves in surf zone. Laboratory results from other investigators and those obtained in the present study were used to test the validity of the proposed model.
DE: surf-zone; longshore-sediment-transport; wave-period; breaking-waves
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0443990

                                                                    170 of 309
TI: Dispersal of benthic meiofauna by wave and current action in Bogue Sound, North Carolina, USA.
AU: Hagerman,-G.M.,Jr.; Rieger,-R.M.
AF: Gibbs and Cox, Inc., 1235 Jefferson Davis Highway, Arlington, VA 22202, USA
SO: P.S.Z.N.-I:-MAR.-ECOL. 1981. vol. 2, no. 3, pp. 245-270
IS: ISSN: 0173-9565
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Results from sediment trap experiments in Bogue Sound, North Carolina, indicate that meiofauna from a wide variety of taxa and benthic habitats are regularly suspended in the subtidal water column. Interstitial species are estimated to account for 10-30% of the suspended meiofauna. Measurements of suspended nematode concentrations, when compared with wind and current velocity records, suggest that in Bogue Sound, shoaling and breaking waves are more important than tidal currents in controlling meiofauna erosion and deposition. Linear regression analysis indicates that .80% (r = 0.907) of the variation in suspended nematode density is correlated with changes in the mean onshore-offshore component of local wind velocity. Nematode turnover associated with spring and summer coastal wind patterns is estimated to be several hundred animals per m super(2) per day. Once suspended, meiofauna may be carried up to 10 km per day by residual currents in the Sound.
DE: meiobenthos-; water-currents; ANW,-USA,-North-Carolina,-Bogue-Sound
CL: Aquatic-Communities:-Benthos-1462
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0443391

                                                                    171 of 309
TI: The non-normal distribution of intermittent suspension sediments below breaking waves.
AU: Kennedy,-S.K.; Ehrlich,-R.; Kana,-T.W.
AF: Dep. Geol., Univ. South Carolina, Columbia, SC 29208, USA
SO: J.-SEDIMENT.-PETROL. 1981. vol. 51, no. 4, pp. 1103-1108
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Samples of intermittent suspension sediment from 10 to 60 cm above the sediment-water interface were collected below breaking waves. No consistent trend of mean or standard deviation was found with height. Grain size histograms show that most samples were not normal or lognormal but were basically unimodal and asymmetric. Plots of cumulative frequency distribution on probability paper can be described as intersecting straight line segments. These observed distributions of grains captured while in actual suspension thus do not support the conjectures of simple or truncated log normality for sediment in that state.
DE: suspended-sediments; grain-size; size-distribution; sediment-water-interface
ID: mathematical-analysis
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0431484

                                                                    172 of 309
TI: The instability and breaking of deep-water waves.
AU: Melville,-W.K.
AF: Inst. Geophys. & Planet. Phys., Univ. California, San Diego, La Jolla, CA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1982. vol. 115, pp. 165-185
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An experimental study of the evolution to breaking of a nonlinear deep-water wave train is reported. Two distinct regimes are found. For ak  less than or equal to  0 multiplied by 29 the evolution is sensibly two-dimensional with the Benjamin-Feir instability leading directly to breaking as found by Longuet-Higgins & Cokelet (1978). The measured side-band frequencies agree very well with those predicted by Longuet-Higgins (1978b). It is found that the evolution of the spectrum is not restricted to a few discrete frequencies but also involves a growing continuous spectrum, and the description of the evolution as a recurrence phenomenon is incomplete.
DE: deep-water; water-waves; breaking-waves; instability-; wave-trains
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Fluid-mechanics-2169
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0430193

                                                                    173 of 309
TI: A numerical simulation of the shoreline evolution at Oarai Beach.
AU: Kraus,-N.C.; Harikai,-S.; Kubota,-S.
AF: Nearshore Environ., Res. Cent., Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 258
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Shoreline change along 1.5 km of beach behind a large breakwater is simulated with a hybrid explicit/implicit numerical nodel. The model is calibrated and verified with field data. The sand transport equation employed accounts for transport due to obliquely incident waves and to a systematic variation in breaking wave height alongshore.
DE: beach-morphology; breakwaters-; longshore-sediment-transport; breaking-waves; INW,-Japan,-Oarai-Beach
ID: simulation-; mathematical-models; long-term-changes
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 0421178

                                                                    174 of 309
TI: Breaking wave trains generated by strong wind on a shallow water.
AU: Tsuchiya,-Y.; Tsutsui,-S.; Yamashita,-T.
AF: Disaster Prevention Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 253
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Hydraulic experiments on the breaking wave trains were carried out in a recirculating wind wave tank. Wind induced currents have an important role in the mass transport of the wave trains. The wave field may be considered as a unidirectional flow, and there exists a critical depth which nearly equals the mean depth in the reference frame.
DE: breaking-waves; wind-waves; shallow-water; hydraulic-models; mass-transport; wind-driven-currents
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0420830

                                                                    175 of 309
TI: Effect of current on wave breaking on slope.
AU: Sakai,-S.; Otsuka,-N.; Saeki,-H.; Ozaki,-A.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Iwate Univ., Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 252
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: When the breaking of wave on a slope is affected by opposing currents, the breaker height, the breaker depth and the breaker type depend on the initial wave steepness and a parameter consisting of the discharge and the wave period.
DE: wave-current-interaction; breaking-waves
ID: beaches-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0420819

                                                                    176 of 309
TI: An experimental study of dissolved oxygen behavior at surf zone.
AU: Hosoi,-Y.; Murakami,-H.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Tokushima Univ., Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 263
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper deals with the relations between the dissolved oxygen in the surf zone and wave characteristics. The dissolved oxygen distributions inside and near the surf zone and the reaeration coefficients were described in relation to the steepness of the incident wave, breaker types and the wave attenuation in the surf zone.
DE: dissolved-oxygen; surf-zone; breaking-waves; wave-steepness; wave-attenuation
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Composition-of-water-2184; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188; The-Physical-Environment:-Physics-and-chemistry-1145
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 0420468

                                                                    177 of 309
TI: A laboratory investigation on Eulerian steady flow in the breaker zone.
AU: Izumiya,-T.; Horikawa,-K.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Tokyo, Tokyo, Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 249
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Eulerian steady flows have been measured both outside and inside the surf zone in order to discuss the mechanism of steady flow generation. The vertical distributions of the flow outside the surf zone are compared with those from the Longuet-Higgins' theory, where slight differences are found near the bed.
DE: surf-zone; breaking-waves; Eulerian-current-measurement
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0419927

                                                                    178 of 309
TI: Experimental study on the mass transport in gravity waves on a sloping bottom.
AU: Hirayama,-H.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Osaka Prefectural Tech. Coll., Osaka, Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 249
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper deals with the characteristics of horizontal distribution of the mass transport under gravity waves on a sloping bottom. The results of various theories and experiments on mass transport are compared and the relation between horizontal distributions on mass transport and breaker types of waves is also discussed.
DE: mass-transport; gravity-waves; gradients-; bottom-topography; breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0419910

                                                                    179 of 309
TI: On characteristics of water particle velocity of breaking waves measured with tension-thread flow meter.
AU: Nakagawa,-T.; Iwata,-K.; Koyama,-H.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Kanazawa Inst. Technol., Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 248
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Three components of water particle velocity of breaking waves are measured concurrently with a "tension-thread flow meter", which detects the drag on a tread dependent on the velocity. It is found that the turbulence intensity of transverse velocity component is comparative with that of the other two components.
DE: particle-velocity; breaking-waves; flowmeters-; orbital-velocity
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0419880

                                                                    180 of 309
TI: Structure of turbulence induced by wave breaking in two-dimensional surf zone.
AU: Sakai,-T.; Sandanbata,-I.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Kyoto Univ., Kyoto, Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 248
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Turbulence induced by wave breaking in a surf zone in a wave tank was measured with a hot-film anemometer, and estimated as the r.m.s. of the deviation from the smoothed velocity. The distributions of the turbulence at crest and trough phases in the surf zone are discussed.
DE: surf-zone; breaking-waves; turbulence-; wave-tanks
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0419873

                                                                    181 of 309
TI: Change in velocity field in and near the surf zone.
AU: Isobe,-M.; Horikawa,-K.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Yokohama Natl. Univ., Japan
CO: 28. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kochi City (Japan), Nov 1981
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 248
IS: ISSN: 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Both field and laboratory experiments were carried out to investigate the change of water particle velocites in and near the surf zone. It was found that the change in amplitude before breaking coincides well with the theoretical value under the assumption of constant energy flux. Discussion is extended to the waves in the surf zone.
DE: surf-zone; particle-velocity; breaking-waves; orbital-velocity
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0419857

                                                                    182 of 309
TI: Theory of rip currents (2) -- the case of obliquely incident waves.
AU: Tsuchiya,-Y.; Yasuda,-T.; Katayama,-A.
AF: Disaster Prev. Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., Japan
CO: 27. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (Japan), 1980
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 234
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
DE: rip-currents; undertow-; breaking-waves; transport-processes; surf-zone
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0415928

                                                                    183 of 309
TI: Field observations of the water particle velocities in and near the surf zone.
AU: Isobe,-M.; Mizuguchi,-M.; Horikawa,-K.
AF: Dep. Civil Eng., Univ. Tokyo, Japan
CO: 27. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (Japan), 1980
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 234
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Waves and water particle velocities at five elevations were measured simultaneously in and near the surf zone. The measured velocities were compared with the values predicted by various wave theories. It was found that stream function theory holds good for both non-breaking and breaking waves.
DE: surf-zone; wave-velocity; isobaths-; hydrodynamics-
ID: comparative-studies
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0415910

                                                                    184 of 309
TI: Experimental study on the breaking of irregular waves.
AU: Isobe,-M.; Nishimura,-H.; Tsuka,-T.
AF: Dep. Civil Eng., Univ. Tokyo, Japan
CO: 27. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (Japan), 1980
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 233
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking condition of individual wave component in irregular waves was investigated experimentally. In order to clarify the influence of the adjacent waves, wave trains in which series of waves with various heights appear repeatedly were also employed. The results were examined in comparison with the regular wave breaking.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-height; wave-wave-interaction; irregular-waves; hydrodynamics-
ID: experimental-research
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0415226

                                                                    185 of 309
TI: Diffraction of breaking random waves.
AU: Takayama,-T.; Kikuchi,-O.; Nishida,-K.
AF: Mar. Hydrodyn. Div., Port & Harbour Res. Inst., Japan
CO: 27. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (Japan), 1980
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, pp. 230-231
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Model tests are carried out on the diffraction of breaking random waves beyond a breakwater gap. The linear wave diffraction theory is proven practical even to the diffraction of the breaking random waves, if the wave spectrum of Bretschneider type is employed as the incident wave condition instead of the real spectrum measured at the gap.
DE: hydrodynamics-; wave-breaking; random-processes; wave-diffraction
ID: modelling-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0414612

                                                                    186 of 309
TI: Mass transport of breaking waves on a mild slope.
AU: Tsuchiya,-Y.; Tsutsui,-S.; Yasuda,-T.; Yamashita,-T.; Hiraguchi,-H.
AF: Disaster Prev. Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., Japan
CO: 27. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (Japan), 1980
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 230
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: There exists the mass transport in the direction of the wave propagation. It extends all over the whole depth. Experimental values of mass flux near breaking points take larger values by about thirty percent than theoretical ones. However the mass flux can be roughly estimated by the law of the conservation of energy flux.
DE: wave-breaking; mass-transport; bottom-topography; slope-environment; energy-flow; hydrodynamics-
ID: mathematical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0414605

                                                                    187 of 309
TI: Experimental study on near-bed velocity inside and outside the surf zone.
AU: Watanabe,-A.; Isobe,-M.; Nozawa,-K.; Horikawa,-K.
AF: Dep. Civil Eng., Univ. Tokyo, Japan
CO: 27. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (Japan), 1980
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 230
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Near-bed velocity induced by waves breaking on a sloping bottom was measured by the hot-film anemometer in a wave flume. Applicability of the small-amplitude wave theory and stream function method to predicting near-bed orbital velocity was discussed. The steady flow components in the surf zone were characterized.
DE: surf-zone; velocity-; wave-breaking; bottom-water
ID: modeling-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0414600

                                                                    188 of 309
TI: Fundamental study on breaking of waves due to currents.
AU: Iwagaki,-Y.; Asano,-T.; Yamanaka,-T.; Nagai,-F.
AF: Dep. Civil Eng., Kyoto Univ., Japan
CO: 27. Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (Japan), 1980
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, p. 230
IS: ISSN 0578-5634
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This study discusses wave breaking phenomena due to currents and their relationships with current properties. Breaking conditions of waves on shear currents are calculated by using Stokes' wave theory of the third order. They are in qualitative agreement with experimental results.
DE: wave-breaking; wave-current-interaction; shear-flow; Stokes-waves; hydrodynamics-
ID: numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0414592

                                                                    189 of 309
TI: Shock pressure of breaking waves on vertical walls.
AU: Kirgoez,-M.S.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Cukurova, Adana, Turkey
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-DIV.-AM.-SOC.-CIV.-ENG. 1982. vol. 108, no. WW1, pp. 81-95
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking wave impact on vertical walls is studied experimentally with beaches having four different slopes. It is found that a breaking wave having its front face parallel to the wall at the instant of impact produces the greatest shock pressures. Deepwater wave steepness and the beach slope are the two parameters governing the magnitude and location of the maximum dimensionless impact pressure from breaking waves. The greatest pressures are produced with a beach sloping at about one in ten. The length of virtual mass which participates in the impact process, is not constant but varies vertically.
DE: breaking-waves; beach-slope; wave-forces; coastal-structures
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0413221

                                                                    190 of 309
TI: Observations of long period waves in the nearshore zone.
AU: Hotta,-S.; Mizuguchi,-M.; Isobe,-M.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Tokyo Metropolitan Univ., Fukazawa 2-1-1, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo, 158 Japan
SO: COAST.-ENG.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 24, pp. 41-76
NT: Published in 1982.
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this paper we focused attention on an analysis of the resultant wave data for long period waves ranging from 0.08 Hz to 0.005 Hz in eight cases of seven observations. The results may be summarized as follows: It was found more reasonable to interpret the observed long period waves as two-dimensional standing waves rather than three-dimensional edge waves. It appears that the generation of the long period waves was not due to variations in the incident waves or radiation stresses. Field data for the nodes and anti-nodes of the standing waves agreed fairly well with the solution given by Lamb for waves on a sloping beach, as modified for a composite beach consisting of two slopes.
DE: shallow-water-waves; nearshore-dynamics; shoaling-waves; breaking-waves; longshore-sand-transport; sediment-transport; diffusion-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Benthic-boundary-layer-2165
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0413012

                                                                    191 of 309
TI: On the capsize performance of a discus buoy in deep sea breakers.
AU: Carson,-R.M.
AF: Dep. Mech. Eng., Univ. Nairobi, P.O. Box 30197, Nairobi, Kenya
SO: OCEAN-ENG. 1982. vol. 9, no. 5, pp. 501-514
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The mode of capsize of a discus buoy in breaking waves is discussed. The results of model tests are given; these show that a judicious choice of mooring design can substantially reduce the chance of capsize. A comparison is made with the performance of the buoy on station.
DE: capsizing-; hydrodynamics-; buoy-mooring-systems; breaking-waves; buoys-
ID: discus-buoys
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Buoys-and-buoy-systems-2303
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0390492

                                                                    192 of 309
TI: Subtidal effects of a large typhoon on Miyake-jima, Japan.
AU: Tribble,-G.W.; Bell,-L.J.; Moyer,-J.T.
AF: 4074 Puu Eleele Pl., Honolulu, HI 96816, USA
SO: PUBL.-SETO-MAR.-BIOL.-LAB.,-KYOTO-UNIV. 1982. vol. 27, no. 1-3, pp. 1-10
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: On October 19, 1979, a large typhoon passed within 160 km of the Japanese Island of Miyake-jima. The typhoon generated surf in excess of 7m. A well known bay was surveyed after the storm, revealing significant effects in both the substrate and algal coverage. Disruption was most severe in the 5-10 m depth range; a shallower site was less affected. This may be a result of both large waves breaking farther offshore and the acclimation of shallow areas to typhoons as a result of previous storms of lower magnitude. Decreases in the abundance of 18 species of tropical reef fishes did not follow a depth dependent pattern and were thought to result from both mortality and displacement. It is hypothesized that strong differences in the level of reduction between species resulted from differential mortality due to spatial and behavioral differences between species.
DE: hurricanes-; environmental-impact; littoral-zone; mortality-; abundance-; Japan,-Miyake-jima-I.-Coast; typhoons-; Japan-Coast; coral-reefs; Pisces-; INW,-Japan,-Miyake-jima-I.
ID: Miyake-jima-Island
CL: Autecology:-Environmental-effects-1422
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 0348550

                                                                    193 of 309
TI: Breaking Effects in Standing and Reflected Waves.
AU: Srokosz,-M.A.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, UK
CO: International Symposium on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: INTERNATIONAL-SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PREPRINTS. 1981. vol. 1, pp. 188-202
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical method, based on that developed by Longuet-Higgins and Cokelet, is used to study breaking effects in standing and reflected waves. It is found that the presence of reflected waves can accelerate, delay or even prevent the breaking of the incident waves and that these effects depend primarily on the initial phase difference between the incident and reflected waves. The presence of reflected waves can in some cases increase the velocities found in the plunging jet, when breaking occurs. For standing waves breaking is related to the instability which develops at the crest of the wave when the downward acceleration there exceeds that of gravity. The instability appears to be of the Rayleigh-Taylor type and leads to the ejection of fluid vertically at the crest. Therefore when the downward acceleration of the crest exceeds that of gravity the wave may be considered to be breaking.
DE: breaking-waves; standing-waves; wave-reflection
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0346606

                                                                    194 of 309
TI: A Parametric Flow for Breaking Waves.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,-M.S.
AF: Dep. Appl. Math., Cambridge Univ. Cambridge, UK
CO: International Symposium on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: INTERNATIONAL-SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PREPRINTS. 1981. pp. 121-135
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Some exact solutions of the equations for inviscid time-dependent, free-surface flow are discussed. One solution, in which the surface profile is a parametric cubic curve, appears to correspond remarkably with the profile of the forward face of a plunging breaker. The aspect ratio of the "tube" is 0.3629. Comparisons are made with observed and numerically calculated profiles.
DE: breaking-waves; parameterization-
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0346472

                                                                    195 of 309
TI: Comparison of Numerical and Analytical Results for Waves that are Starting to Break.
AU: McIver,-P.; Peregrine,-D.H.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. Bristol, Bristol, UK
CO: International Symposium on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: INTERNATIONAL-SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PREPRINTS. 1981. vol. 1, pp. 203-216
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A variety of calculations of unsteady deep-water waves in which they start to break by forming a jet have been made using the method of Longuet-Higgins and Cokelet (1976). To develop understanding of the breaking process the results of these calculations are compared with an analytic solution and with ad hoc analytical expressions. First comparison is made with a different numerical solution kindly made available by Vinje and Brevig. This gives confidence in the accuracy of the computations which is briefly discussed. A geometrical representation of the rate-of-strain tensor has led us to model the flow field by a few discrete sources outside the fluid. This has lead to some suprisingly accurate representations of the flow and gives a simple representation of the flow field which is independent of the reference frame in which it is observed.
DE: breaking-waves
ID: numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0346354

                                                                    196 of 309
TI: Shock Pressures from Deep Water Braking Waves.
AU: Kjeldsen,-S.P.
AF: Norwegian Hydrodynamic Lab., Div. Ship & Ocean Lab., Trondheim, Norway
CO: International Symposium on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: INTERNATIONAL-SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PREPRINTS. 1981. vol. 1, pp. 567-584
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In the present study, experiments in the laboratory are described in which measurements were made of impact pressures, impact duration and resultant shock forces on a small plate installed in a wave flume, at a position where deep water waves were forced to break. Experiments were performed with the plate in a vertical and in a tilted position that allowed slamming from below. Higher shock pressures were found for the tilted position and this is shown to be due to the interior orientation of particle velocities in steep asymmetric waves. Frequencies of occurrences were high. Every time a spilling breaker struck the plate a shock was detected. Also non-breaking waves gave rise to shocks in some cases. The magnitude of shock peaks is shown to be a function of relative wave steepness. Shocks were detected at vertical elevations -0.2 <  Delta  < 0.8 relative to the crest height level. The maximum was found at crest height level coinciding with the position of maximum particle velocities in breaking waves.
DE: deep-water-waves; breaking-waves; wave-forces; wave-tanks; offshore-structures
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0344543

                                                                    197 of 309
TI: Numerical Calculations of Forces from Breaking Waves.
AU: Vinje,-T.; Brevig,-P.
AF: Univ. Trondheim, Trondheim, Norway
CO: International Symposium on Hydrodynamics in Ocean Engineering, Trondheim (Norway), 24 Aug 1981
SO: INTERNATIONAL-SYMPOSIUM-ON-HYDRODYNAMICS-IN-OCEAN-ENGINEERING.-PREPRINTS. 1981. vol. 1, pp. 547-565
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A numerical time-stepping procedure is presented, calculating the inertia forces from breaking waves on submerged cylinders or the forces on bodies being hit by plunging breakers. The forces from breaking waves on a submerged, horizontal, circular cylinder have been calculated for varying depths of submergence. The results of the calculations are in good agreement with linear theory except for smaller depths of submergence. The breaking of the waves is, however, strongly influenced by the presence of the cylinder even for fairly large depths of submergence. Forces on a vertical wall and a horizontal cylinder being hit by a plunging breaker have been calculated, showing good agreement with design forces recommended by others, though the numerical model does not take into account entrainment of air into the fluid and formation of foam.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-forces; cylindrical-bodies
ID: numerical-analysis
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0344526

                                                                    198 of 309
TI: Seawave Energy (Passive) Concept.
AU: Plummer,-H.G.
AF: Government of Fiji, Mineral Develop., Fiji
CO: Seminar/Workshop on Utilization and Management of Inshore Marine Ecosystems of the Tropical Pacific Islands, Suva (Fiji), 24 Nov 1979
SO: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-SEMINAR-WORKSHOP-ON-UTILIZATION-AND-MANAGEMENT-OF-INSHORE-MARINE-ECOSYSTEMS-OF-THE-TROPICAL-ISLANDS,-NOVEMBER-24-30,-1979,-UNIVERSITY-OF-THE-SOUTH-PACIFIC,-SUVA,-FIJI. Helfrich,-P.-ed. 1982. pp. 95-99
ST: SEA-GRANT-COOP.-REP.-HAWAII-UNIV.
RN: UNIHI-SEAGRANTCR8201 (UNIHISEAGRANTCR8201)
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: R (Report); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The Seawave Energy (Passive) Concept is explained. It is a system of impounding the potential of waves breaking over fringing reefs into large "ponds" constructed by walls on the fringing reefs and cross bunds from reef to shore. Low-head generating sets would convert direct to electrical power, or turboram pumps would pump to secondary storage reservoirs at a higher level which would then operate as a normal high head hydroelectric scheme. It is calculated that in the right condition 4 KW could be generated from each meter length of fringing reef, more in high energy conditions. The concept is attractive and a regional supported project to demonstrate its worth by means of a pilot project at least is justified. Successful results would have particular relevance to many petroleum importing coastal and island nations.
DE: energy-resources; ponds-; resource-development; tidal-power; hydroelectricity-; Pacific-Ocean-Tropical; IS,-Tropical-Pacific
CL: Resources:-Energy-from-the-sea-2406
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0327359

                                                                    199 of 309
TI: (Observation of Ocean Vertical Mixing with Breaking Waves.).
OT: Observation du Melange Vertical de l'Ocean en Presence de Vagues Deferlantes
AU: Chouchan,-D.
AF: Lab. d'Oceanogr. Physique, Museum National d'Histoire Naturelle, 43, rue Cuvier, 75231 Paris Cedex 5, France
SO: J.-RECH.-OCEANOGR. 1982. vol. 7, no. 1, pp. 35-53
PY: 1982
LA: French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The dynamics of the upper ocean is studied by the observation of thewind stress effect on the sea surface. The wind waves generation andpropagation is connected with the water mixing of the surface layer.
DE: wind-stress; water-mixing; turbulence-; air-water-interface; breaking-waves; physical-oceanography
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0317110

                                                                    200 of 309
TI: Stability of Liferafts and Small Vessels in Wind and Waves.
AU: Wills,-J.A.B.
AF: Natl. Marit. Inst., Teddington, Middx. UK
CO: Oceans 82 Conference, Washington, DC (USA), 20 Sep 1982
SO: OCEANS-82-CONFERENCE-RECORD:-INDUSTRY,-GOVERNMENT,-EDUCATION-PARTNERS-IN-PROGRESS-WASHINGTON,-D.C.,-SEPTEMBER-20-22,-1982. 1982. pp. 739-744
ST: OCEANS-'-82.
RN: IEEE-82CH1827-5 (IEEE82CH18275)
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Model 10-man liferafts of 1:7 scale have been studied in combined wind and breaking waves. The results show how the major cause of overturning, aerodynamic lift occurring during the passage of a wave crest beneath the raft, is affected by the stability devices and the disposition of the crew. Tests are currently under way on small trawler models in combined wind and waves.
DE: lifeboats-; stability-; winds-; breaking-waves
ID: small-vessels
CL: Support-Services,-Techniques,-and-Equipment:-Ocean-operations-2388; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Vessels,-Underwater-Vehicles-and-Buoys:-Surface-vehicles-2301
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0316199

                                                                    201 of 309
TI: A Potential-Flow Model of Turbulence Caused by Breaking Surface Waves.
AU: Thompson,-R.O.R.Y.
AF: Div. Oceanogr., CSIRO Mar. Lab., Cronulla, NSW 2230, Australia
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES. 1982. vol. 87, no. C3, pp. 1935-1937
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A very simple model of the effect of breaking surface waves in the ocean, or grid stirring in laboratory experiments, is that of random forcing at the surface of a deep homogeneous fluid with linear, frictionless dynamics. The "turbulence" is physically separated from the gravity waves by a "rigid lid" approximation. The model predicts that the turbulent kinetic energy decreases as the inverse square of the depth, beyond a depth  delta , which is the width of a typical wave burst (or a few grid intervals in the laboratory). The integral length scale is proportional to depth (again past  delta ), so the turbulent Reynolds number is independent of depth. The model nontrivially satisfies an equation previously interpreted, as giving the flux of turbulent energy in grid-stirring experiments. The measure of "inertial dissipation" used there is thus called into question.
DE: turbulence-; breaking-waves; surface-waves; surface-water-waves
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0306075

                                                                    202 of 309
TI: A Study of Radiation Stress and Set-Up in the Nearshore Region.
AU: Stive,-M.J.F.; Wind,-H.G.
AF: Delft Hydraulics Lab., Harbours and Coasts Branch, Netherlands
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1982. vol. 6, no. 1, pp. 1-25
IS: ISSN: 0378-3839
NT: 3 tables, 6 figures.
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this paper the variations of radiation stress and mean water level are studied for the two-dimensional shoaling and breaking of progressive, periodic waves on a plane, gently sloping laboratory beach. Observations of radiation stress and mean water level were made for two initial conditions. The observed variations are compared to the variations as calculated by a linear theory, James' nonlinear theory, and a new nonlinear theory based on Cokelet's work. It is shown that the nonlinear theories are qualitatively and quantitatively superior to the linear theory, thus indicating that the effects of finite amplitude are important for the present case.
DE: wind-waves; mean-sea-level; breaking-waves; shoals-; laboratory-tests; wave-setup
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0286265

                                                                    203 of 309
TI: On Wave Breaking Over the Underwater Slope.
OT: O Razrushenii Voln nad Podvodnym Sklonom
AU: Leont'-ev,-I.O.
AF: Inst. Okeanol. AN S.S.S.R., Moscow, USSR
SO: OKEANOLOGIYA. 1981. vol. 21, no. 6, pp. 983-988
IS: ISSN: 0030-1574
PY: 1981
LA: Russian
LS: English; Russian
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A physical model of wave energy dissipation in the surf zone is considered. A special parameter (the breaking coefficient) is introduced to estimate the wave breaking intensity in relation to initial wave parameters and slope characteristics. The results make it possible to determine conditions under which wave damping without breaking is possible in the near-shore zone, as well as to predict the breaker type for the given bottom relief depending on the wave steepness in the open sea. The theoretical resulta and the experimental data are shown to be in good agreement.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-damping; surf-zone
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0261938

                                                                    204 of 309
TI: Internal Waves and Small-Scale Processes.
AU: Munk,-W.
AF: Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., La Jolla, CA 92037, USA
SO: EVOLUTION-OF-PHYSICAL-OCEANOGRAPHY. Warren,-B.A.;Wunsch,-C.-eds. Massachusetts-Inst.-of-Technology,-Cambridge-USA CAMBRIDGE,-MA-USA-MIT-PRESS 1981. pp. 264-291
IS: ISBN: 0-262-23104-2
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: B (Book)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A traditional case of a two-layer ocean starts the discussion followed by one of continuous stratification: constant buoyancy frequency N, N decreasing with depth, a maximum N (thermocline), a double maximum. Conditions are greatly altered in the presence of quite moderate current shears. Short internal waves have phase velocities that are generally slower than the orbital currents associated with the long internal waves, and thus are subject to critical layer processes. There is further nonlinear coupling by various resonant interactions. Ocean fine structure is usually the result of internal-wave straining, but in some regions the fine structure is dominated by intrusive processes. Microstructure is concentrated in patches and may be the residue of internal wave breaking. Little is known about the breaking of internal waves. Evidently, there are two limiting forms of instability leading to breaking: advective instability and shear instability. The chapter ends with an attempt to estimate the probability of wave breaking, and of the gross vertical mixing and energy dissipation associated with these highly intermittent events.
DE: internal-waves; breaking-waves; microstructure-
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0247123

                                                                    205 of 309
TI: On the Clouds of Bubbles Formed by Breaking Wind-Waves in Deep Water, and Their Role in Air-Sea Gas Transfer.
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Wormley, Godalming, Surrey GU8 5UB, UK
SO: PHILOS.-TRANS.-R.-SOC.-LOND.,-SER.-A. 1982. vol. 304, no. 1483, pp. 155-210
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); F (Freshwater)
AB: Clouds of small bubbles generated by wind waves breaking and producing whitecaps in deep water have been observed below the surface by using an inverted echo sounder. The bubbles are diffused down to several metres below the surface by turbulence against their natural tendency to rise. Measurements of the acoustic scattering cross section per unit volume, M sub(v), of the bubbles have been made at several depths. The distributions of M sub(v) at constant depth are close to logarithmic normal. The time-averaged value of M sub(v), M sub(v), decreases exponentially with depth over scales of 40-85 cm (winds up to 12 ms super(-1)), the scale increasing as the wind increases. Values of M sub(v) at the same depth and at the same wind speed are greater in the sea than in the fresh-water loch, even at smaller fetches. Estimates have been made of the least mean vertical speed at which bubbles must be advected for them to reach the observed depths. Several centimetres per second are needed, the speeds increasing with wind. It is concluded that the component of the flux via the bubbles is small at wind speeds up to 12 ms super(-1), but that at sea the contribution is significant at wind speeds of 12 ms super(-1) (at least when the water is close to being saturated) and that at higher wind speeds the bubble contribution may dominate in the processes of air-water gas transfer.
DE: air-bubbles; breaking-waves; deep-water; gas-transfer-air-sea; whitecaps-; wind-speed
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0246735

                                                                    206 of 309
TI: Forces on Intertidal Organisms Due to Breaking Ocean Waves: Design and Application of a Telemetry System.
AU: Denny,-M.W.
AF: Dep. Zool., Univ. Washington, Seattle, WA 98195, USA
SO: LIMNOL.-OCEANOGR. 1982. vol. 27, no. 1, pp. 178-183
PY: 1982
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new telementry system measures the direction and magnitude of the forces imposed on intertidal organisms by individual breaking waves. Cast epoxy replicas of organisms are mounted on three transducers embedded in an exposed rock surface. Force data are encoded as a frequency-modulated audio signal and transmitted as an FM radio signal a sufficient distance so that the receiving and recording apparatus is safely away from the wave-swept shore. The system measures forces in the range of 0.1-10 N, but can be scaled to fit a variety of applications.  The apparatus is simple to build and inexpensive.
DE: measuring-techniques; intertidal-zone; marine-organisms; waves-; environmental-effects; wave-forces; intertidal-environment; measuring-devices; telemetry-
CL: The-Physical-Environment:-Methods-and-instruments-1142; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1); Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0246318

                                                                    207 of 309
TI: Proglacial Lake Beach Structures From Solitary Waves?.
AU: Duck,-R.W.; McManus,-J.
AF: Dep. Geol., Univ. Dundee, Scotland
SO: EARTH-SURF.-PROCESS.-LANDFORMS. 1982. vol. 7, no. 1, pp. 95-96
PY: 1982
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: The beaches of Briksdal Lake are formed of gravels and coarse sands and it appears that the interaction of the waves and the sloping beach faces permits lateral motion of the coarse clastic material to occur. The gravel ridges are apparently embryonic structures which superficially resemble ripples but their crestal spacing (0 multiplied by 5-1 multiplied by 5 m) and the sizes of the particles involved are more characteristic of dune bedforms. The formation of dunes demands that the power of the moving fluid should be greater on balance than that required for ripple formation almost regardless of particle size. The relatively high speeds necessary for dune formation could certainly have been generated in currents produced during the breaking of waves propagated at speeds approaching the 5 ms super(-1) estimated at Briksdal Lake. The ice-collapse mechanism may be responsible for generating sets of swiftly travelling solitary-like waves which give rise to strong currents running along and oblique to the shores of the proglacial lake. Such currents may produce linear ripples or dune-like bedforms according to the grade of sediment available.
DE: beaches-; wave-forces; geomorphology-; dunes-; solitary-waves; glacial-lakes; Norway,-Briksdal-Lake
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Coastal-morphology-2271; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Dynamics-of-lakes-and-rivers-2171
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0245687

                                                                    208 of 309
TI: A Theoretical Study of Plunging Breakers and Their Run-Up.
AU: Kirkgoez,-M.S.
AF: Cukurova Univ., Dep. Civil Eng., Adana, Turkey
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1981. vol. 5, no. 4, pp. 353-370
IS: ISSN: 0378-3839
NT: 16 figures.
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking oscillatory waves of the plunging type and their run-up are studied theoretically, using the nonlinear, shallow-water wave equations which are solved by the method of characteristics. Backwash veclocities are included in the numerical scheme. The computational results, up to the wave breaking point, agree reasonably well with experimental data for waves on a 1/7.12 slope but there is poorer agreement for a 1/9.80 slope. An expression is presented for estimating the maximum frictional run-up on a dry beach. Results obtained from the new expression are reasonably close to the experimental curve for a rough beach sloping at 1/7.12.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-runup
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0232409

                                                                    209 of 309
TI: Field Measurements of Longshore Currents on a Barred Beach.
AU: Allender,-J.H.; Ditmars,-J.D.
AF: Argonne Nat. Lab., Energy and Environ. Systems Div., Argonne, IL 0439, USA
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1981. vol. 5, no. 4, pp. 295-309
IS: ISSN: 0378-3839
NT: 2 Tables, 5 Figures
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements from a towed, instrumented sled were used to determine profiles of longshore currents and waves across the surf zone on a steep, barred beach on Lake Michigan during two storms. Quasi-synoptic profiles of the surf zone were determined at about 3-hr intervals during the storms for 24 and 28 hr. Large incident wave angles ( approximately equals  30 degree ) and root-mean-square breaker heights of 1.5 m or less yielded time-averaged longshore currents as large as 1.8 m s super(-1). Longshore-current profiles varied throughout the storms and, in many cases, were nearly uniform across the entire surf zone despite the barred topography. Wave heights during such conditions in the surf zone showed little variation shoreward of the bar crest, located typically about 30 m offshore at a depth of roughly 0.75 m under calm conditions. Several factors that might account for the unexpected uniformity of the current profiles are examined with particular attention paid to induced set-up and current due to breaking waves on barred beaches.
DE: current-measurement; longshore-currents; surf-zone
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0232397

                                                                    210 of 309
TI: Run-Up Characteristics of Shoaling Internal Waves.
AU: Wallace,-B.C.; Wilkinson,-D.L.
AF: Water Res. Lab., Univ. New South Wales
CO: 5. Australian Conference on Coastal and Ocean Engineering 1981: Offshore Structures Perth (Australia) 25 Nov 1981.
SO: FIFTH-AUSTRALIAN-CONFERENCE-ON-COASTAL-AND-OCEAN-ENGINEERING-1981:-OFFSHORE-STRUCTURES.-ABSTRACTS-IN-DEPTH. National-Committee-on-Coastal-and-Ocean-Engineering-Australia 1981. pp. 121-122
IS: ISBN 0-85825-159-0
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Oceanographic studies undertaken on the North West Shelf of Australia in recent years have revealed the existence of transient currents of the order of 1ms super(-1) or greater. The ambient currents are primarily of tidal origin and have magnitudes of the order of 0.2ms super(-1). The transient currents are usually of short duration. As the transient current velocities exceed the ambient currents by a factor of five or more they profoundly affect the design loading on any submerged structure such as an undersea pipeline. Internal waves have been proposed as a possible source of the anomalies. The observed velocities can only be achieved if the waves are close to breaking or have degenerated into surges in which the water particle velocities are comparable with the celerity of the disturbance. This study was undertaken with the aim of identifying the nature of internal wave run-up.
DE: wave-runup; shoaling-waves; internal-waves; tidal-currents; Australia-Coast; ISW,-Australia,-North-West-Shelf
ID: North-West-Shelf
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Indian-Ocean (ISW)
AN: 0231065

                                                                    211 of 309
TI: Breaking Wave Forces on Vertical Cylinders.
AU: Apelt,-C.J.; Baddiley,-P.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Queensland
CO: 5. Australian Conference on Coastal and Ocean Engineering 1981: Offshore Structures Perth (Australia) 25 Nov 1981.
SO: FIFTH-AUSTRALIAN-CONFERENCE-ON-COASTAL-AND-OCEAN-ENGINEERING-1981:-OFFSHORE-STRUCTURES.-ABSTRACTS-IN-DEPTH. National-Committee-on-Coastal-and-Ocean-Engineering 1981. pp. 103-104
IS: ISBN 0-85825-159-0
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Although wave forces on vertical cylinders have been studied in many investigations, very few have dealt with the forces due to breaking waves. Results are presented here of a laboratory study which was carried out to obtain data on such breaking wave forces on circular cylinders. The experiments were conducted in a wave basin, 15m long and 3m wide. At the end of the basin remote from the wave generator a smooth, impermeable beach with slope 1:15 caused the incident waves to be deformed gradually until they broke. End effects at the bottom of the cylinder were eliminated without causing any restraint on the movement of the cylinder with a thin disc of the same diameter attached to the cylinder by a thin membrane of plastic wrapping sheet.
DE: wave-forces; cylindrical-bodies; breaking-waves
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0230959

                                                                    212 of 309
TI: Wave Penetration and Rubble Mound Breakwater Stability Model Studies for Tidal Inlet Training Works.
AU: Groves,-L.; Pattearson,-C.C.
AF: Dep. Harbours & Marine, Queensland, Australia
CO: 5. Australian Conference on Coastal and Ocean Engineering 1981: Offshore Structures Perth (Australia) 25 Nov 1981.
SO: FIFTH-AUSTRALIAN-CONFERENCE-ON-COASTAL-AND-OCEAN-ENGINEERING-1981:-OFFSHORE-STRUCTURES.-ABSTRACTS-IN-DEPTH. National-Committee-on-Coastal-and-Ocean-Engineering-Australia 1981. pp. 76-77
IS: ISBN 0-85825-159-0
PY: 1981
LA: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper presents the results of model tests carried out at the Queensland Government Hydraulics Laboratory as part of the design of training works for the Nerang River Entrance in South East Queensland. The Nerang River flows into a tidal inlet (the Broadwater) before discharging into the sea. The entrance is currently migrating to the north under the influence of the prevailing longshore sand transport at an average annual rate of 20 to 40 metres per year. The coastiline adjacent to the entrance is fully exposed to wave action from all seaward directions and periodically experiences waves generated by cyclonic influences. Under these conditions, offshore wave heights in excess of 6 metres are not uncommon. The model tests which are discussed deal with the evaluation and control of wave energy penetrating through a trained entrance and with aspects of the design of rubble mound training wall structures subject to depth limited breaking waves. The interpretation of the model tests presented attempts to highlight only the results of the tests which have a more general application to the design of similar structures.
DE: rubblemound-breakwaters; wave-action; stability-; tidal-inlets; hydraulic-models; training-; Queensland-Coast; longshore-sand-transport; breaking-waves; ISEW,-Australia,-Queensland,-Nerang-R.
ID: Nerang-River-Entrance
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 0230751

                                                                    213 of 309
TI: Analysis of Transport Velocity Fluctuations in a Wave Flow.
AU: Leont'-yev,-I.O.; Speranskiy,-N.S.
AF: Address not stated
SO: OCEANOL.-ACAD.-SCI.-USSR. 1979. vol. 19, no. 6, pp. 717-719
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Waves deformation in the coastal zone is accompanied by the development of littoral circulation, the main elements of which are the water mass transport toward the coast and the rip current. The pattern of transport velocity in time at a fixed point in a flow is characterized in the general case by a sequence of sign-variable pulses in which the transport velocities can attain several tens of cm multiplied by sec super(-1). A relatively high coherence of velocity fluctuations at the bottom and at the surface is observed only in the breaker zone. A spectral analysis of the process shows a monotonic decrease in energy with increasing fluctuation frequency. To correctly identify the low-frequency harmonics, the sample duration must be extended to 30-60 min.
DE: coastal-waters; wave-energy; mass-transport; littoral-currents; breaking-waves; Eulerian-methods; wave-velocity; spectral-analysis; profiles-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0180409

                                                                    214 of 309
TI: New Instrumentation for the Investigation of Sediment Suspension Processes in the Shallow Marine Environment.
AU: Downing,-J.P.; Sternberg,-R.W.; Lister,-C.R.B.
AF: Dep. Oceanogr., Univ. Washington, Seattle, WA 98195, USA
SO: MAR.-GEOL. 1981. vol. 42, no. 1-4, pp. 19-34
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An instrumentation system has been developed that continuously measures: flow velocity, water depth, and suspended sediment concentration profiles in the nearshore zone. The system consists of four components: (1) an array of electronic sensors, including: an electromagnetic current meter, a surface-piercing resistance wave guage, and a five-element array of optical back-scatterance sensors; (2) a signal processing electronics unit; (3) a guyed mast support structure; and (4) a data acquisition system. The small size of the sensors and their response characteristics make the array suitable for monitoring sediment transport to within a few centimeters of the bed under moderately large breaking waves ( similar to 2 m). Results from an experiment on an exposed ocean beach on the coast of Washington, U.S.A., indicate that sand suspension events of long duration (15-40 sec) relative to the period of incident waves contribute a significant quantity of sand to the total littoral drift.
DE: instrumentation-; measuring-devices; flow-; current-velocity; water-depth; sediment-unconsolidated; marine-environment; shallow-water
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162; Geology-and-Geophysics:-Methods-and-instruments-2262
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0178027

                                                                    215 of 309
TI: Short-Crested Breaking Waves in Water of Limited Depth.
AU: Halliwell,-A.R.; Machen,-P.C.
AF: Heriot-Watt Univ., Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
SO: PROC.-INST.-CIV.-ENG.,-PART-2. 1981. vol. 71, pp. 663-674
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Where the design of an offshore or coastal structure is governed by the maximum breaking wave, existing design guidance is based on the behavior of long-crested waves. Work at the University of Newcastle has demonstrated that the height of short-crested breaking waves can be significantly higher than that of long-crested breaking waves. The interaction of waves near and at breaking is discussed, and the results of a short series of model tests are summarized. These results confirm the fact of a higher short-crested breaking wave, and indicate that guidance data on the type of breaking wave to expect for a given wave steepness and beach slope will require revision for short-crested waves.
DE: breaking-waves; offshore-structures; marine-engineering; short-crested-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0172031

                                                                    216 of 309
TI: Experimental Study on Strong Interaction Between Regular Waves and Wind Waves-I.
AU: Hatori,-M.; Tokuda,-M.; Toba,-Y.
AF: Geophys. Inst. Fac. Sci, Tohoku Univ., Sendai 980 Japan
SO: J.-OCEANOGR.-SOC.-JAPAN. 1981. vol. 37, no. 3, pp. 111-119
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The interaction between mechanically generated regular waves and wind waves is experimentally investigated in a wind-wave tunnel. It is shown that the growth process of regular waves is divided into the four distinct stages as follows: (1) almost independent coexistence of wind waves and regular waves, (2) attenuation of wind waves with simultaneous growth of regular waves, (3) rapid growth of regular waves after disappearance of wind waves, and (4) transition of regular waves to wind waves after the wave breaking. At the second stage there is an apparent relation between the attenuation of wind waves and the growth of regular waves. This fact suggests that there is some strong nonlinear interactions  which transfers energy effectively from wind waves to regular waves.
DE: energy-transfer; wind-waves; waves-; modeling-; wind-wave-interaction
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0154065

                                                                    217 of 309
TI: On the Residence Time of Oil Mixed Into the Water Column by Breaking Waves.
AU: Naess,-A.
AF: Norwegian Hydrodynamic Laboratories
CO: Thirteenth Annual Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, TX (USA), 4 May 1981
SO: Proceedings-of-Thirteenth-Annual-Offshore-Technology-Conference. 1981. vol. 2, pp. 497-508
ST: PROC.-OFFSHORE-TECHNOL.-CONF.
RN: OTC-4064 (OTC4064)
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The main purpose of this paper is to present experimental results on the mixing of oil into the water column by breaking waves. During sea-states characterized by frequent breaking it is believed that the breaking waves play a dominant role in the natural dispersion of an oil slick. When a breaking wave hits an oil slick, it will cause a mixing of oil into the water column. Due to buoyant effects, the oil particles tend to rise towards the surface again. This leads to a short term balance between mixing and rising that is determined largely by the characteristic residence times of the oil particles in the water column. It is this particular problem that is the subject matter of this paper.
DE: residence-time; oil-slicks; mixing-; breaking-waves; sea-state; water-column; dispersion-
CL: Pollution:-Characteristics,-behavior-and-fate-2445; Pollution:-Characteristics,-behavior-and-fate-1503
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2); Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
AN: 0134887

                                                                    218 of 309
TI: Erosion Prediction for Exploration and Production Structures in the Arctic.
AU: Kobayashi,-N.; Vivatrat,-V.; Madsen,-O.; Boaz,-I.B.
AF: Brian Watt Associates, Inc.
CO: Thirteenth Annual Offshore Technology Conference, Houston, TX (USA), 4 May 1981
SO: Proceedings-of-Thirteenth-Annual-Offshore-Technology-Conference. 1981. vol. 3, pp. 459-469
ST: PROC.-OFFSHORE-TECHNOL.-CONF.
RN: OTC-4114 (OTC4114)
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Two simulation models were developed to predict the severity of erosion problems associated with structures. The first model predicts beach erosion caused by waves breaking on sand islands with gentle slopes. The second model predicts erosion and accretion patterns due to the wave and current action around large vertical bodies of revolution with steep slopes. Example computations for hypothetical sacrificial beach islands and fixed cones are performed using the wave and current characteristics associated with storms in the Beaufort Sea. The computed results indicate significant surf-zone erosion of the sacrificial beach islands although the eroded volume will be a small fraction of the total island fill. Computed erosion rates around the base of a cone structure, located on the seabed composed of fine cohesionless sediment, are severe enough to require adequate toe protection measures. Erosion prevention schemes are briefly discussed on the basis of the erosion predictions.
DE: offshore-structures; hydrodynamics-; erosion-control; artificial-islands; wave-forces; current-forces; beach-erosion; scouring-; Beaufort-Sea; Alaska-Coast; PNW,-Beaufort-Sea; PNW,-USA,-Alaska
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Drilling-and-production-rigs-2322; Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284; Marine-Technology:-Soil-mechanics-2283; Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Artificial-islands-2324
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Polar-Arctic-Westward (PNW)
AN: 0132019

                                                                    219 of 309
TI: Elevation and Velocity Measurements of Laboratory Shoaling Waves.
AU: Flick,-R.E.; Guza,-R.T.; Inman,-D.L.
AF: Shore Processes Lab., Scripps Inst. Oceanog., Univ. California, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES. 1981. vol. 86, no. C5, pp. 4149-4160
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements of wave elevation and orbital velocity in the shoaling, breaking, and bore regime of single-frequency laboratory waves show that third-order Stokes theory, when energy flux is conserved, predicts the wave height change and harmonic growth in the regime where the Ursell number Ur = (H/h)/(kh) super(2) is O(1) or less. It is shown theoretically that a smooth transition regime exists between Stokes and cnoidal regions for waves which eventually break by plunging. The wave profile asymmetry about the vertical plane observed in near-breaking waves and bores is due to slow changes of phase of the harmonics relative to the primary wave as the wave train shoals. By contrast, only asymmetry about the horizontal plane is possible in the Stokes and cnoidal wave theories, since these classical solutions allow no relative phase shifts between harmonics. The correlation between surface elevation and bottom velocity under breakers and bores suggests that turbulence contributes more strongly to the unorganized flow at the bottom under plunging than under spilling waves.
DE: shoaling-waves; wave-height; orbital-velocity; breaking-waves; bores-; Stokes-waves; cnoidal-waves; harmonic-analysis; turbulence-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0129662

                                                                    220 of 309
TI: Wave Set-Up On a Natural Beach.
AU: Guza,-R.T.; Thornton,-E.B.
AF: Shore Processes Lab., Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., Univ. California, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES. 1981. vol. 86, no. C5, pp. 4133-4137
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave set-up, the superelevation of mean water level owing to the presence of breaking incident waves, was measured at the shoreline of a natural beach. Offshore pressure sensors monitored incident wave conditions. The set-up of the shoreline was found to be about 0.17H sub(s) sub(,) sub( infinity ), where H sub(s) sub(,) sub( infinity ) is the significant wave height in deep water.
DE: wave-setup; waves-on-beaches; breaking-waves; wave-height
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0121169

                                                                    221 of 309
TI: Nonlinear Deformation of Sea-Wave Profiles in Intermediate and Shallow Water.
AU: Arhan,-M.; Plaisted,-R.O.
AF: Ctr. Nat. pour l'Exploitation des Oceans, BP 337, 29273 Brest Cedex, France
SO: OCEANOL.-ACTA. 1981. vol. 4, no. 2, pp. 107-115
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper studies the nonlinear deformation of sea-wave profiles in intermediate (20m) and shallow (4m) water, based on wave staff and bottom pressure in situ  measurements. The nonlinear deformations have been decomposed into two elementary classes: asymmetry with respect to the mean water surface, and asymmetry with respect to a vertical line passed through the wave crest. The extent of the deformation of the first kind is estimated by computing the experimental statistical distributions of wave crest heights and through depths. The second kind of nonlinear deformation was observed in shallow water only, and studied by a bi-spectral analysis: this kind of deformation may be interpreted in terms of a phase shift between first and second order components, and related to the phase of the bispectrum. It has been possible, applying this technique to the shallow water data set, to find anew the steepening of the wave front during its progression towards the breaking point.
DE: gravity-waves; shallow-water; nonlinear-waves; water-depth; breaking-waves; profiles-; wave-steepness
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0119926

                                                                    222 of 309
TI: Bubble and Aerosol Spectra Produced by a Laboratory "Breaking Wave".
AU: Cipriano,-R.J.; Blanchard,-D.C.
AF: Atmos. Sci. Res. Ctr., St. Univ. NY, Albany, NY 12222, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES. 1981. vol. 86, no. C9, pp. 8085-8092
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The relative contribution of jet and film drops from bursting bubbles to the sea-salt component of the marine aerosol is poorly understood. An analysis of the bubble and aerosol spectra produced by a laboratory model of a breaking wave or whitecap shows that film drops may play a much more important role than previously accorded. The model strongly suggests that most of the droplets < 5-10  mu m diam. originate as film drops, derived from bubbles > 1 mm. The water-to-air flux of such droplets is adequate to account for the majority of maritime could condensation nuclei. The model also suggests that droplets > 20-25  mu m originate as jet drops, derived from bubbles smaller than 1 mm. The model breaking wave produces an upwelling plume of bubbles whose concentration for all bubble sizes vastly exceeds the steady state or background bubble population observed at sea at depths > 1 mm. Bubbles of up to 10 mm diam. were produced, and the bubble flux reached 200 cm super(-2) s super(-1). Whitecap bubble spectra, presently unavailable, are therefore essential in making more accurate assessments of marine aerosol production.
DE: breaking-waves; bubbles-; aerosols-; whitecaps-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163; Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Atmospheric-chemistry-2188
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0119138

                                                                    223 of 309
TI: An Experimental Investigation of Breaking Waves Produced by a Towed Hydrofoil.
AU: Duncan,-J.H.
AF: Hydronautics Inc., Laurel, MD 20810, USA
SO: PROC.-R.-SOC.-LOND.,-SER.-A. 1981. vol. 377, no. 1770, pp. 331-348
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: This paper presents the results of experiments on breaking waves produced by towing a submerged, two-dimensional hydrofoil at constant depth and speed. The wave field consists of a breaker followed by a train of lower, non-breaking waves. The breaker has a small zone of turbulent water riding its forward slope; this zone is called the breaking region. Measurements were made of surface height profiles, the vertical distribution of mean horizontal velocity in the wake of the wave, and the vertical thickness of the wake. The results support the hypothesis that the breaking region imparts a shearing force along the forward slope equal to the component of its weight in that direction.
DE: breaking-waves; wakes-; profiles-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0115614

                                                                    224 of 309
TI: Tidal Variations in the Compaction of Beach Sediments.
AU: Heathershaw,-A.D.; Carr,-A.P.; Blackley,-M.W.L.; Wooldridge,-C.F.
AF: Inst. Oceanogr. Sci., Taunton, UK
SO: MAR.-GEOL. 1981. vol. 41, no. 3-4, pp. 223-238
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements of the penetration resistance of beach sands on a gently sloping (1:50) high tidal range (9.5m) beach are described. It has been found that at any one position the penetration resistance reaches a maximum value about 1 h before that section of the beach is submerged by the incoming tide, and that this maximum value is largest at the mid-tide level. This behaviour cannot be explained by a tidally induced change in the beach water table alone and it is suggested that spatial changes in penetration resistance may be related to the varying amounts of exposure of the beach face to wave activity in the surf zone as the latter is swept in and out over the beach face by the tide. In particular a "cut and fill" mechanism would lead to the observed variations in compaction of the beach sediment and additionally a momentary failure of the beach face under breaking waves might give similar results.
DE: compaction-; beaches-; sediments-; wave-action; tidal-cycle
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264; Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0115057

                                                                    225 of 309
TI: The Dispersion of Short Wavelets in the Presence of a Dominant Long Wave.
AU: Phillips,-O.M.
AF: Dept. Earth Planet. Sci., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218, USA
SO: J.-FLUID-MECH. 1981. vol. 107, pp. 465-485
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The characteristics are studied of short surface waves superimposed upon, and interacting with, a long, finite-amplitude dominant wave of frequency N. An asymptotic analysis allows the numerical investigation of Longuet-Higgins (1978) to be extended to higher superharmonic perturbations, and it is found that although they are distorted by the underlying finite-amplitude wave, gravity wavelets continue to propagate freely provided the dominant wave does not break. Capillary waves can, however, be blocked by short, steep, non-breaking gravity waves, so that in a wind-wave tank at short fetch and high wind speed, freely travelling gravity-capillary waves can be erased by the successive dominant wave crests.
DE: dispersion-; short-waves; long-waves; wave-wave-interaction; wave-propagation
ID: mathematical-models
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Air-water-boundary-layer-2163
JA: Ocean-Technology,-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
AN: 0112677

                                                                    226 of 309
TI: The mixing layer of Loch Ness.
AU: Thorpe,S.A.; Hall,A.J.-(Inst.-Oceanogr.-Sci.,-Wormley,-Godalming,-Surrey,-UK)
SO: J.-Fluid-Mech., 1980 101(4), 687-703
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: Measurements of the thermal and velocity structure of the near-surface mixing layer of a freshwater lake in moderate wind conditions from fixed or mobile arrays of sensors reveal large-scale coherent structures consisting of narrow fronts across which both the temperature and the horizontal component of the current increase. These fronts are generally transverse to the wind direction and are inclined to the vertical, and appear to be similar to fronts, reported as temperature 'ramps', in the near-surface atmospheric boundary layer. The time derivatives of the temperature are skewed in a sense consistent with observations in laboratory and atmospheric boundary layers, and of a magnitude consistent with measurements in the latter. Evidence is presented to show that bubbles generated by breaking waves are carried down in the large-scale pattern of flow associated with the fronts in the mixing layer. The presence of a Langmuir circulation associated with wind rows has not been established in these experiments. The relevance of the observations to the ocean mixing layer is discussed.
DE: mixed-layer; freshwater-lakes; fronts-; surface-layers; British-Isles,-Ness-L.
ID: breaking-waves
AN: 1085700

                                                                    227 of 309
TI: Zonation and distribution of the beach mysid, Gastrosaccus psammodytes- (Crustacea: Mysidacea).
AU: Woolridge,T.-(Zool.-Dep.,-Box-1600,-Univ.-Port-Elizabeth,-Port-Elizabeth,-South-Africa)
SO: J.-Zool., 1981 193(2), 183-189
PY: 1981
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: During the day the sand burrowing mysid G. psammodytes- is confined to the intertidal and surf zone. There is a clear pattern of intraspecific zonation with adult males, immatures and juveniles further offshore. Females move progressively inshore as the brood develops, with young-bearing females occupying a zone closest inshore. At night G. psammodytes- is present in the plankton when part of the population moves into deeper water and away from the area occupied during the day. Zonation appears to be related to the degree of planktonic activity. Loss or mortality of developing embryos is high in G. psammodytes- and inshore movement of brooding females is interpreted as a movement away from excessive turbulence and sand movement in the area of breaking waves.
DE: burrowing-organisms; ecological-zonation; Gastrosaccus-psammodytes; PSW,-South-Africa
ID: Malacostraca-; intertidal-environment; developmental-stages; Mysidacea-; Crustacea-; intertidal-environments; distribution-; zonation-; habitat-selection; age-; reproductive-status
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Westward (PSW)
AN: 1067190

                                                                    228 of 309
TI: The operation of second order wave modes on a uniformly sloping beach.
AU: Okeke,O.E.-(Univ.-Benin,-Dep.-Math.,-Nigeria)
SO: Geofis.-Int., 1978 17(2), 253-263
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English; Spanish
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper addresses the theory concerning second order wave effects associated with water waves as the latter propagate through a uniformly sloping beach. A model beach with bottom contours parallel to the shoreline is used. It is also assumed that there exists a breaker zone in the neighborhood of the shoreline. Incidently, this ensures that the eigensolutions associated with primary wave motions are bounded. Given the above considerations, it is shown that the second order modes of oscillations are excited and maintained by the energy derived from the non-linear interactions among the oscillatory wave profiles and the velocity of the primary wave components. Furthermore, numerical calculations suggest that the amplitudes of the second order harmonics seem to steadily increase as they propagate towards the shoreline as well as increase with increasing beach gradient. In the range of tidal frequencies, the theory appears to have realistically predicted an estimate of (1) the width of the continental shelf over which propagating modes are likely to experience bottom effects, and (2) the rise and fall of the tidal modes as functions of the distance from the breaker zone.
DE: coastal-morphology; tidal-waves; wave-processes-on-beaches
ID: wave-propagation; breaking-waves
AN: 1001680

                                                                    229 of 309
TI: Breaking ice with gravity waves.
AU: Bates,H.F.; Shapiro,L.H.-(Geophys.-Inst.,-Univ.-Alaska,-Fairbanks,-AK-99701,-USA)
SO: Trans.-Am.-Soc.-Mech.-Eng.-J.-Energy-Resour.-Technol., 1980 102(3), 148-153
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: The plane-wave impulse response of a laterally compressed floating elastic plate, derived in earlier work, provides a simple means of describing the response of a floating ice sheet to gravity waves induced by a moving vehicle. Vehicle speeds above the cut-off phase velocity produce gravity waves that grow in amplitude with time. These waves grow in amplitude most rapidly when the vehicle speed equals the critical gravity-wave phase velocity. For vehicle speeds above the criticial phase velocity, the critical wave is excited at an angle to the vehicle motion; hence, the amplitude grows at a high but decreasing rate as the vehicle speed increases from the critical speed. The critical speed is the optimum speed for breaking an ice sheet by moving vehicle. Vehicles travelling at speeds below the cut-off phase velocity do not excite growing waves that increase the deflection of the ice sheet; thus, vehicular travel below the cut-off speed is recommended. Easily derived plots of the cut-off and critical phase velocities and wave lengths are presented as functions of ice thickness and water depth.
DE: gravity-waves; ice-breakup; ship-motion
ID: ice-sheets
AN: 1067020

                                                                    230 of 309
TI: Littoral sand transport from longshore currents.
AU: Walton,T.E.,Jr.-(Hydr.-Engr.,-Coastal-Eng.-Res.-Cent.,-US-Army,-Ft.-Belvoir,-VA,-USA)
SO: Proc.-Am.-Soc.-Civ.-Eng.-J.-Waterway-Port-Coast.-Ocean-Div., 1980 106(4), 483-487
PY: 1980
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The author incorporates the longshore current model (due to breaking waves) of Longuet-Higgins to determine the longshore energy flux. This can be used to estimate longshore sand transport rates. The derivation of the formula and a worked example are given.
DE: longshore-sand-transport; longshore-currents
ID: breaking-waves; energy-flux
AN: 1051010

                                                                    231 of 309
TI: Efficiency of conversion of kinetic energy to potential energy by a breaking internal gravity wave.
AU: Thompson,R.O.R.Y.-(CSIRO,-Cronulla,-N.S.W.,-Australia-2230,-Australia)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res., 1980 85(C11), 6631-6635
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: A simple model of turbulent mixing induced by a breaking internal gravity wave implies that one quarter of the kinetic energy lost goes into potential energy. The model is based on a critical Richardson number concept. The conceptual model and some numeric trials simulate the experiment of Thorpe (1973) quite well.
DE: kinetic-energy; potential-energy; breaking-waves; internal-waves; turbulent-diffusion
ID: gravity-waves
AN: 1039250

                                                                    232 of 309
TI: Water circulation around Britomart Reef, Great Barrier Reef, during July 1979.
AU: Wolanski,E.; Jones,M.-(Austral.-Inst.-Mar.-Sci.,-PMB-No.-3,-Townsville,-MSO,-Qld.-4810,-Australia)
SO: Aust.-J.-Mar.-Freshwater-Res., 1980 31(4), 415-430
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Weather and currents at eight sites were measured and drogue trajectories obtained in July 1979 at Britomart Reef, a middle reef located at 18 16'S..146 38'E. in the central region of the Great Barrier Reef province. The longest current records (3 weeks) were obtained at two sites in passes between the Coral Sea and the Great Barrier Reef Lagoon where westerly currents modulated by tides were observed. Analysis of residuals also showed the importance of wind-driven secondary circulation. Non-tidal sea-level oscillations were very small. Shorter current records (1-10 days) at six sites in the lagoon and on the reef flat showed a predominant northerly flow, also modulated by tides and wind. A residual anticlockwise water circulation existed in the lagoon where flushing was controlled more by winds than by tides. The rise in sea level over the reef flat as a result of waves breaking was negligible. Temperature differences between air and water accounted for the cooling of the water column during the expedition. Constant south-east trade winds were experienced at the reef, while on land the wind was weaker, more variable, and often dominated by land-sea breezes.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; wind-driven-circulation; ISEW,-Great-Barrier-Reef,-Britomart-Reef; ISEW,-Coral-Sea; ISEW,-Great-Barrier-Reef-Lagoon
ID: tidal-currents; coastal-lagoons; breaking-waves; air-water-temperature-difference
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 1025710

                                                                    233 of 309
TI: Estimation of design wave height.
AU: Jang-Won-Chae-(Ocean-Eng.-Lab.,-Seoul,-Korea,-Rep.)
SO: Bull.-KORDI, 1980 2(1), 9-14
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Design wave height at South Uist, U.K. was estimated from two years wave data, using both marginal probability density function and asymtotic distributions. For the distribution of individual wave heights Battjes method (1972) was modified in terms of wave period and steepness. The extreme wave height can be reasonably estimated with averaged wave period over the observation period and upper limit value of wave steepness from scatter plot of Hs vs Tz. Three asymtotic distributions with various plotting position rules were applied to all the three hourly values of Hs and Hmax. Weibull distribution with Gumbel's plotting rule was well fitted. Grouping of high waves did not significantly affect the return period of extrapolated extreme wave height mainly due to the shortness of observation period. As a design wave height at the site breaking wave height was recommended.
DE: design-wave; wave-height; ANE,-British-Isles,-South-Uist
ID: wave-forecasting; wave-data; wave-period; wave-steepness; statistical-analysis; breaking-waves
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 1026370

                                                                    234 of 309
TI: Discus buoy stability and the spectrum of steep waves.
AU: Nath,J.H.; Chester,S.,Jr.; Bunney,R.E.; Brooks,D.M.-(Dep.-Civ.-Eng.,-Oregon-State-Univ.,-Corvallis,-OR-97330,-USA)
SO: J.-Ship-Res., 1980 24(3), 190-202
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Thick discus buoys are used in the ocean as platforms from which oceanographic and meteorological measurements are made and reported to shore. The stability of these buoys is sensitive to steep breaking waves, and a few have capsized in the ocean from large breaking waves. This occurrence can be simulated in laboratory scale-model studies. Generally, in the laboratory, the buoys will not capsize for a breaking wave that is small relative to buoy diameter. The problem is predicting the probability of capsizing for engineering planning purposes. This paper describes how first approximations can be made from a combination of laboratory scale-model testing of buoy capsizings in random waves, a few reported occurrences of buoy capsizings in the open ocean, and the statistics of ocean waves. An estimate of the joint probability density distribution function of a wave steepness parameter and a wave height parameter is made from buoy motion measurements. It is found that in the northeastern Pacific Ocean the wave climate is quite severe and includes a large percentage of relatively large breaking waves. Under such circumstances, buoy diameters of 10 m have a relatively low reliability. The reliability increases rapidly as buoy diameter increases.
DE: buoy-motion; buoys-; breaking-waves; stability-; laboratory-tests; wave-climate; capsizing-; INE-
ID: hydrodynamics-; wave-steepness; wave-height
OZ: Pacific-Northeast (INE)
AN: 1009000

                                                                    235 of 309
TI: Experiments on arrested saline wedge.
AU: Grubert,J.P.-(Water-Eng.,-Dep.-Civ.-Eng.,-North-East-London-Polytechnic,-London,-UK)
SO: Proc.-Am.-Soc.-Civ.-Eng.-J.-Hydraul.-Div., 1980 106(6), 945-960
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish)
AB: Experimental results are presented which show that the onset of interfacial wave breaking can be expressed by a stability parameter which is a function of the interfacial densimetric Froude number and the interfacial Reynolds number. This parameter is shown to be independent of the flow Reynolds number upstream of a salt wedge and can be scaled to give a stability parameter for prototype flows. Measurement of the rate of mixing at the interface proved that mixing theory based on momentum exchange of turbulent flows is valid as a working hypothesis, and that this mixing is inversely proportional to the relative density.
DE: salt-wedges; estuaries-; interface-phenomena; stratified-flow
ID: hydraulics-; breaking-waves; models-; stability-; Froude-number; Reynolds-number; water-mixing; momentum-transfer; turbulent-flow; diffusion-
AN: 0140910

                                                                    236 of 309
TI: On the forming of sharp corners at a free surface.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,M.S.-(Dep.-Appl.-Math.-Theor.-Phys.,-Silver-St.,-Cambridge,-UK)
SO: Proc.-R.-Soc.-Lond.-A, 1980 371, 453-478
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: By applying the technique for time-dependent irrotational flows proposed in the preceding paper, a new class of exact free-surface flows is derived. In these, the free surface has the form of a variable hyperbola, whose axes rotate in space. The angle  between the asymptotes, and the angle  of orientation of the axes, are found explicitly as functions of the time. It is suggested that these flows, which are generalizations of the symmetrical Dirichlet hyperbolae, are relevant to the flow near the tip of a breaking gravity wave. Since for large values of t the angle  tends to its limit like tSUP--1, the flows may be matched asymptotically to the parabolic arch of a plunging breaker, In other cases, the tip of the wave can curl over and appear to form a vortex. By the inclusion of terms cubic in the space coordinates it is also possible to represent a sharp crest pointing upwards and tending towards a cusp.
DE: irrotational-flow; breaking-waves
ID: gravity-waves; mathematical-models
AN: 1011260

                                                                    237 of 309
TI: The mixing of oil spills into the sea by breaking waves.
AU: Naess,A.-(Norwegian-Hydrodynamics-Lab.,-Norway)
SO: J.-Pet.-Technol., 1980 32(6), 1113-1122
PY: 1980
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An important pollution-control problem on the high seas is the mixing of an oil spill into the sea caused by breaking waves. This paper presents a theoretical model for determining the amount of oil mixed into the sea by breaking waves. The model is based primarily on probabilistic methods, with experimental observations and data as the foundation. Numerical examples are given.
DE: oil-spills; mixing-; marine-environment; depth-; breaking-waves; models-; pollution-control
ID: distribution-; probability-theory; pollution-data
AN: 0157320

                                                                    238 of 309
TI: Capsizing of small trawlers. /[Presented at:- Joint Meeting of RINA and the Inst. Of Engineers and Shipbuilders; Rankine House, Glasgow, Scotland; Feb 20 1979].
AU: Morrall,A.-(Nautics-Branch,-Natl.-Mar.-Inst.,-London,-UK)
SO: Nav.-Archit., 1980 (2), T71-T101
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish)
AB: Results are presented of an investigation into the behaviour in rough water and breaking waves of two inshore fishing vessels having almost identical principal dimensions and displacement, but with different statical stability characteristics. In breaking waves, hydrodynamic conditions exist which may endanger a small fishing vessel with an inadequate reserve of stability. It is concluded that the margin of stability for small inshore fishing vessels as required by the IMCO criteria appears to be insufficient to prevent capsizing in certain possible sea conditions.
DE: trawlers-; capsizing-; experimental-research; safety-regulations
AN: 0110860

                                                                    239 of 309
TI: The capsizing of M/S Helland-Hansen: the investigation and recommendations for preventing similar accidents.
OT: Presented at:- Royal Institution of Naval Architects; London (UK); Apr 26 1979].
AU: Dahle,E.A.; Kjaerland,O.-(Address-not-stated)
SO: Nav.-Archit., 1980 (2), T51-T70
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: In a capsizing investigation of M/S Helland-Hansen- (LSUB-OA = 34.7 m), model experiments have been performed with the vessel in a ballast condition positioned broadside to breaking waves. The experiments show that the stability requirements set forth at the Torremolinos International Conference for the Safety of Fishing Vessels 1977 are inadequate for this situation. The GZ-curve should be positive up to heeling angles for at least 80 to prevent capsizing.
ID: M/S-Helland-Hansen; capsizing-; safety-regulations
AN: 0110910

                                                                    240 of 309
TI: Run-up of non-breaking waves _ a finite-element approach.
AU: Gopalakrishnan,T.C.; Tung,C.C.-(Hydraul.-Eng.-Lab.,-Civ.-Eng.-Dep.,-Indian-Inst.-Technol.,-Madras-600-036,-India)
SO: Coastal-Eng., 1980 4(1), 65-84
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An important aspect of the study of wave-structure interaction is wave run-up. The traditionally used shallow-water equations cannot be applied to regions where the vertical accelerations become significant. Such accelerations are significant when water moves over dykes or levees with fairly steep slopes. In the present study an approach has been made to develop the appropriate momentum equation which will account for the vertical acceleration and hence replace the shallow-water equation. The newly developed equation is also non-linear in nature. This, along with the continuity equation, forms a system of coupled non-linear time-dependent partial differential equations for the problem of wave run-up. In order to solve this system the Finite-Element Technique is adopted for the space domain. The Finite Difference Euler Predictor-Corrector is used to step up the variables in the time domain. Such a combination, known as the semi-discrete method, is found to produce a powerful model for the wave run-up. Numerical results are obtained using sinusoidal waves, solitary waves (tsunamis) and surges as the forcing functions. Single-slope faces as well as composite-slope faces (as is often the case in levees) are included in the study. The results of these cases (i.e. particle velocities and heights of run-up) are given in the form of charts. In the design of coast protective structures with sloping sides, this model will be found particularly useful in predicting the run-up and particle velocities.
DE: wave-runup; finite-element-method
ID: mathematical-models; gradients-; boundary-conditions; solitary-waves; sinusoidal-waves; tsunamis-; surges-; coastal-structures; shore-protection
AN: 0157560

                                                                    241 of 309
TI: Wave influences on river-mouth depositional process: examples from Australia and Papua New Guinea.
AU: Wright,L.D.; Thom,B.G.; Higgins,R.J.-(Coast.-Stud.-Unit,-Dep.-Geogr.,-Univ.-Sydney,-Sydney,-NSW-2006,-Australia)
SO: Estuar.-Coast.-Mar.-Sci., 1980 11(3), 263-277
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish)
AB: Field observations of river-mouth effluent dynamics and resulting patterns of sediment transport have been replicated in and seawards of the mouths of the Shoalhaven River (New South Wales, Australia) and Jaba River (Bougainville, Papua New Guinea), both influenced by wave processes. Breaking waves cause intense mixing between river and sea waters while wave-induced momentum flux and setup oppose outflow. Rapid deceleration and lateral expansion result, creating broad crescent-shaped bars near the outlets. Subaqueous levees assume the form of broad shoals surmounted by shoreward-migrating swash bars. River water with high suspended load remains trapped by waves along the beach on either side of the river mouths. In the case of the Jaba, fines accumulate in the trough and wave reworking of bar sands leads to a succession of low beach ridges separated by mud-filled swales. The seaward-protruding accumulations at both river mouths cause wide, dissipative surf zones and pronounced shore-normal and shore-parallel gradients in radiation stress and setup. This results in a flow of water away from the locus of maximum deposition toward adjacent regions of lower setup; flow then turns seaward as large-scale rips. The rips create pronounced delta-margin erosion and result in arcuate embayments flanking the river-mouth bulge. Under low stage conditions the low-gradient lower course of the Shoalhaven behaves as a partially-mixed estuary. Breaking waves enhance flood-tide currents and inhibit ebb currents. Bar sands migrate shoreward and enter the estuary producing an elongate shore-normal sand body in the form of channel fill and estuarine shoals.
DE: sediment-deposition; deltaic-deposits; river-plumes; sediment-transport; bars-; wave-processes-on-beaches; ISEW,-Papua-New-Guinea,-Jaba-R.-Estuary; ISEW,-Australia,-New-South-Wales,-Shoalhaven-R.-Estuary
ID: breaking-waves; water-waves-action; wave-setup; erosion-; tidal-currents; coastal-morphology; surf-zone
OZ: Pacific-Southwest (ISEW)
AN: 0153700

                                                                    242 of 309
TI: Geostrophic fronts, bores, breaking and blocking waves.
AU: Stern,M.E.-(Grad.-Sch.-Oceanogr.,-Univ.-Rhode-Island,-Kingston,-RI-02881,-USA)
SO: J.-Fluid-Mech., 1980 99(4), 687-703
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish)
AB: An undisturbed geostrophic density current flows along a vertical wall (the coast) with the free streamline (the front) located at a distance L from the wall which is comparable to the Rossby radius of deformation. Finite amplitude perturbations with downstream wavelengths much larger than L are discussed, and it is shown that the slope of the front in the horizontal plane increases with time. Some perturbations tend to 'break' seaward by developing large transverse velocities away from the coast. The temporal evolution of some perturbations is such as to completely 'block' the upstream flow, but the subsequent behaviour is beyond the scope of the theory. The propagation of the nose of the intrusion when a density current debouches from a coastal source and then flows along the coastal boundary is also discussed.
DE: density-currents; coastal-oceanography; mathematical-models; geostrophic-flow
ID: geostrophic-currents; fronts-oceanic
AN: 0158930

                                                                    243 of 309
TI: [Investigations on wave climate in the area of the Ostfriesische Inseln and the coast].
OT: Untersuchungen zum Seegangsklima im Bereich der Ostriesischen Inseln und Kueste.
AU: Niemeyer,H.D.-(An-der-Muehle-5,-2982-Norderney,-GFR)
SO: Kueste, 1979 (no. 34), 53-70
PY: 1979
LA: German
LS: German; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The Research Station for Island and Coast Protection Norderney has been operating the wave measurement program East Frisian Islands and Coast for two years. This study is supported by the German Federal Ministry for Research and Technology (BMFT) through the German Committee on Coastal Engineering Research. The first results can be summarized in the following manner: (1) There is a high correlation between the wind speed prevailing the last three hours and the heights of local waves subsequently occurring. (2) Wave energy dissipation on the bar enclosing the tidal inlet and the northwestern shore of the island situated eastward of the inlet can be described in a quantitative manner in respect of the different morphological features of the bar. (3) The intensive wave energy dissipation on the bar prevents the breaking of waves spreading out over the tidal flats due to limited water depth, which indicates in spite of that a wave height damping in a certain order of magnitude. (4) The continuous wave damping on the tidal flats leads to such a decrease of heights that any wave breaking cannot occur there due to restricted water depth not even on dykeforelands during the duration of high storm tide water levels. (5) It seems that not the highest, but mainly the longer waves induce the highest wave run-up on sea dykes.
DE: wave-climate; nearshore-dynamics; bars-; wave-rump; dikes-; shore-protection; ANE,-Germany,-Fed.-Rep.
ID: wave-energy; wind-waves; wind-speed; wave-damping
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0008320

                                                                    244 of 309
TI: A case of persistent breaking of internal gravity waves in the atmospheric surface layer over the ocean.
AU: Sethuraman,S.-(Atmos.-Sci.-Div.,-Dep.-Energy-and-Environ.,-Brookhaven-Natl.-Lab.,-Upton,-NY-119873,-USA)
SO: Boundary-Layer-Meteorol., 1980 19(1), 67-80
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Formation and breaking of internal gravity waves contributing to a very significant increase in turbulence in the atmospheric surface layer over the Atlantic Ocean off Long Island, New York are reported. Contrary to the bursts that are characteristically of short duration, this increase in turbulence lasted for more than one hour and was typical of what one would observe during unstable atmospheric conditions. However, mean temperature profiles indicated strong stable conditons.
DE: surface-layers; turbulence-; gravity-waves; ANW,-USA,-New-York
ID: atmospheric-boundary-layer
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0144220

                                                                    245 of 309
TI: Wave shoaling calculated from Cokelet's theory.
AU: Sakai,T.; Battjes,J.A.-(Dep.-Civ.-Eng.,-Kyoto-Univ.,-Kyoto,-Japan)
SO: Coastal-Eng., 1980 4(1), 65-84
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: In this paper, Cokelet's numerical non-linear theory for progressive, periodic gravity waves is applied to the two-dimensional shoaling of finite-amplitude waves on a beach up to breaking. The shoaling curves so obtained have infinite slopes at the breakpoints. The reason for this is that the mean wave energy flux of Cokelet's theory has an intermediate maximum before the highest wave is reached. The shoaling curves of the present paper are compared with existing shoaling curves calculated from different finite-amplitude wave theories, and with existing experimental data. It was found that the shoaling curves calculated from Cokelet's theory predict higher wave height ratios than other curves. The agreement between the present curves and the experimental results is good except near the breakpoint, where the wave height of the present curves is larger than the experimental wave height. The smallest relative depth, beyond which the agreement with the experimental result becomes poor, is found to increase with increasing incident wave steepness.
DE: shoaling-waves; finite-amplitude-waves; wave-processes-on-beaches; wave-forecasting; wave-height
ID: gravity-waves; periodic-waves; mathematical-models; progressive-waves; breaking-waves; wave-energy; energy-flow
AN: 0157590

                                                                    246 of 309
TI: Shoaling of finite-amplitude surface waves on water of slowly-varying depth.
AU: Stiassnie,M.; Peregrine,D.H.-(Fac.-Civ.-Eng.,-Tech.-Israel-Inst.-Technol.,-Haifa,-Israel)
SO: J.-Fluid-Mech., 1980 97(4), 783-805
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Periodic wave trains propagating over water which varies in depth in the direction of wave propagation are studied by using accurate solutions for wave trains in constant depth of water. The accurate solutions are (1) Cokelet's (1977) extension of Stokes' approximation and, for the longer waves, (2) a solution for trains of solitary waves using the solitary-wave solution of Longuet-Higgins and Fenton (1974). A representative selection of results is shown in diagrams. A feature which arises from the use of these accurate solutions is that near the highest wave two solutions are possible for a given incoming wave. Although the solutions cannot describe waves that break, it is shown that as depth is decreased a point is reached beyond which no solution can be found. This is taken to indicate the region in which waves break. The limitations of the theory are discussed and analysed. Comparisons with experimental measurements of Hansen and Svendsen (1979) are included.
DE: depth-; wave-propagation; surface-waves; breaking-waves
ID: wave-trains; variations-; solitary-waves; Stokes-waves; amplitude-
AN: 0129490

                                                                    247 of 309
TI: Wave-induced liquefaction: a modern example from the Bay of Fundy.
AU: Dalrymple,R.W.-(Brock-Univ.,-Geol.-Sci.-Dep.,-St.-Catherines,-Ontario-L2S-3A1,-Canada)
SO: Sedimentology, ISSN:-0037-0746 1979 26(6), 835-844
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Soft-sediment deformtion features occur commonly on parts of intertidal sand bodies in Cobequid Bay, Bay of Fundy. These features are small- to intermediate-sized, slump-like bodies, 1-3 mSUP-2 in area and located on the crest and upper stoss side of ebb megaripples. External modification of these slumps indicates that they formed before complete emergence. The deformed cross-bedding within these bodies extends to a depth of 0.15-0.35 m and shows that deformation occurred during slumping and flowage of liquefied sand down the megaripple stoss side. Field evidence and calculations strongly indicate that this liquefaction results from the impact of 0.1-0.3 m high waves breaking against the megaripple lee faces. Neither rapid drawdown of the water level nor earthquake shocks are reasonable alternative explanations. Indigenous wave activity provides an attractive substitute to tectonism as an explanation of soft-sediment deformation in ancient shallow-water sediments. Slow wave-induced compaction may also account for the relative scarcity of deformation structures in shallow marine sandstones.
DE: sedimentary-structures; deformation-; sediment-water-interface; intertidal-environment; slumping-; wave-action; ANW,-Fundy-Bay
ID: sand-ripples
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0003520

                                                                    248 of 309
TI: Vertical distribution of the concentration and composition of suspended material in the breaker zone.
AU: Kos'-yan,R.D.; Pykhov,N.V.; Filippov,A.P.-(Address-not-stated)
SO: Oceanol.-Acad.-Sci.-USSR, 1978 18(6), 700-704
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The characteristics of the regime of suspended material in the breaker zone are analyzed on the basis of measurements in the nearshore zone of the sea. The distributions of the concentration and particle-size composition of suspended material with depth in the wave flow above various parts of the bottom were measured from an experimental platform during the stable phases of a storm. These distributions were found to have distinctive differences in the various zones. In the zone of plunging breakers, the concentration of suspended particles has an exponential distribution, in the zone where the largest waves break, the distribution is monotonic, with the largest gradients near the bottom; and in the zone of action of unbroken waves, the concentrations and composition change significantly in the near-bottom (40-60 cm) region, remaining almost unchanged above.
DE: suspended-matter; surf-zone
ID: breaking-waves; vertical-distribution; chemical-composition; particle-size; wave-action; suspended-sediments
AN: 0108920

                                                                    249 of 309
TI: Wave runup on variable beach profiles.
AU: Taylor,R.B.; Ozsoy,E.; Turco,T.J.-(Eng.-Div.,-Tetra-Tech,-Inc.,-Jacksonville,-FL,-USA)
SO: Proc.-Am.-Soc.-Civ.-Eng.,-J.-Waterway-Port-Coast.-Ocean-Div., 1980 106(2), 169-182
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The runup of breaking waves on beach profiles of variable slope is analyzed as a function of beach and offshore profile geometry, variations in stillwater level, and wave characteristics. The representation of composite beach and offshore slopes approximates the profile geometry as a parabolic curve that provides a continuous, smooth representation of the profile geometry and simplifies the calculation of composite slope values. For concave, upward profile geometries with fixed values of wave period and stillwater elevation, the runup is observed to first increase, reach a maximum, and then decrease as the deepwater wave height is increased. Increases in the stillwater level produce higher values of wave runup for fixed wave height and period. For linear profile geometries, the runup is observed to increase continuously with increasing wave height, independently of changes in the stillwater elevation.
DE: wave-runup; beaches-; breaking-waves; beach-morphology
ID: beach-topography
AN: 0095030

                                                                    250 of 309
TI: Three dimensional beach-stage model.
AU: Short,A.D.-(Coastal-Stud.-Unit,-Dep.-Geogr.,-Univ.-Sydney,-Sydney,-NSW-2006,-Australia)
SO: J.-Geol., 1979 87(5), 553-571
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A three dimensional beach model applicable to open sandy coastal environments is presented. The model consists of ten beach stages incorporating erosional and accretionary sequences of beach-surf zone morphodynamic conditions. Each stage is associated with a particular level of breaker wave power. Decreasing breaker wave power products spatially controlled onshore bar migration, eventual bar welding, beach accretion and reflective surf zone conditions (beach stages 6-ar-5-ar-4-ar-3-ar-2-ar-1). Increasing wave power generates beach erosion, dynamically controlled bar-channel formation and dissipative surf zone conditions (stages 1-ar-2'-ar-3'-ar-4'-ar-5'-ar-6). Temporal variations in wave power cause predictable movement through and within the model. The effect of beach gradient (tan ) is considered with regard to the influence on the degree of dissipativeness, edge wave length and cut-off modes, and standing wave length. Steeper coarse grained beaches are more reflective and tend to lower (1,2,2') reflective stages; fine sand, low gradient dissipative beaches favor outer and multiple bars reflecting higher stages (5, 5' and 6); with low to moderate gradient, medium sand beaches potentially encompassing the entire spectrum of beach stages presented in the model.
DE: beach-topography; beach-erosion; beach-nourishment; mathematical-models; nearshore-circulation
ID: surf-zone; breaking-waves; beach-slope; grain-size; wave-forces; coastal-morphology
AN: 0023730

                                                                    251 of 309
TI: Simulation model analysis of seasonal beach cycles.
AU: Felder,W.N.; Fisher,J.S.-(TRW-Systems-Inc.,-McLean,-VA,-USA)
SO: Coastal-Eng., 1980 3(4), 269-282
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In this paper, a simulation model is presented which describes the formation and destruction of longshore bars. The distribution of sediment in the nearshore zone is modeled using a sediment continuity equation. Mass fluxes of sediment are computed using semiempirical equations outside the breaker zone. Inside the breaker line, transport is made proportional to the velocity inside a solitary wave, and the direction of transport is made dependent on the wave type, so that seaward transport in the surf zone is characteristic of plunging breakers. The model is successful in simulating the geometrical properties of longshore bars in two dimensions as well as the sequence of events in bar formation. Comparison with field data suggests that berm/bar transition takes place during plunging breaker conditions, therefore the wave type is probably of greater importance than wave height or steepness in predicting the profile type. Three modes of profile recovery following storms are modeled: bar stabilization, bar destruction, and bar migration. The type of response depends on the sequence of wave heights and periods during the post-storm time span.
DE: seasonal-variations; coastal-morphology; bars-; longshore-sand-transport; beach-erosion; beach-accretion
ID: simulation-; models-; sediment-transport; surf-zone; breaking-waves; berms-; profiles-; storms-; wave-height
AN: 0072700

                                                                    252 of 309
TI: On a mechanism for mixing across density interface.
AU: Yoshida,S.-(Dep.-Eng.-Sci.,-Fac.-Eng.,-Hokkaido-Univ.,-Sapporo,-Japan)
SO: Trans.-Jap.-Soc.-Civ.-Eng., 1979 10, 143-144
PY: 1979
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Mixing mechanisms across the density interface in the flow of fresh-salt water layer are investigated experimentally as well as theoretically. The difficulty of clarification of cusped breaking mechanism is that the interfacial gravity waves are forced to distort irregularly at the stage of the breaking. Through a series of laboratory experiments, it was found that the distortion was due to the interaction between the interfacial gravity waves and the different waves of a cycloidal profile and of the phase velocity much smaller than that of the former. Visual observation of the stream lines beneath the C-waves suggests that the C-waves are equivalent with the deformation of the density interface affected by the vortices of spiral form through shear instability.
DE: water-mixing; interface-phenomena; density-stratification
ID: salinity-; gravity-waves; breaking-waves; shear-; instability-
AN: 0066880

                                                                    253 of 309
TI: Modulation characteristics of sea surface waves.
AU: Ramamonjiarisoa,A.; Mollo-Christensen,E.-(Inst.-Mec.-Stat.-Turbulence,-Univ.-Aix-Marseille,-Marseille,-France)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res., 1979 84(C12), 7769-7775
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Observations of ocean surface waves under steady wind conditions show that they do not obey the linear dispersion relation, thus confirming that previously reported results of laboratory experiments also apply to the ocean. It is also shown that mechanically generated surface waves of near-breaking amplitude follow a similar dispersion relation. Observations of coherency of wave signals between two points are also reported, showing the coherency to be higher than in a wave field consisting of independently propagating Fourier components. It is also demonstrated that the observed spectra, coherencies, and dispersions can be described in terms of modulated Stokes-like carrier waves propagating with an angular spread and a lag between amplitude and phase modulations. This is solely proposed as a method of description of observations since there is no present theory for the dynamics of a process where crests are lost due to crest pairing. This violates a crucial premise of modulation theories.
DE: water-waves; surface-waves; wave-spectra; wave-generation
AN: 0080920

                                                                    254 of 309
TI: Representation of high-amplitude waves by stream function.
OT: Vagues de grande amplitude et fonction de courant.
AU: Susbielles,G.; Molin,B.-(Address-not-stated)
SO: Houille-Blanche, 1979 (no. 4-5), 261-265
PY: 1979
LA: French
LS: German; English; Spanish; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The kinematics of waves just about to break can be calculated by a Stokes expansion to the order N, by representation of the waves by the stream function, and by a recently-developed Longuet-Higgins approach. Whereas use of the stream function was associated with application of a purely numerical procedure from a series-expansion, it is now possible by comparison with the Stokes expansion to the order N to obtain an analytical expression for the stream function expansion coefficients for infinite depth. A few additional comments confirm R.G. Dean's previous date from representation of waves by the stream functions.
DE: mathematical-models; wave-propagation; breaking-waves
ID: fluid-dynamics; kinetic-energy; Stokes-law
AN: 0002300

                                                                    255 of 309
TI: Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at Magilligan Point, Northern Ireland.
AU: Carter,R.W.G.-(Sch.-Biol.-Environ.-Stud.,-The-New-Univ.-Ulster,-Coleraine,-Co.-Londonderry,-Northern-Ireland,-BT52-1SA)
SO: Earth-Surf.-Process., 1980 5(1), 81-89
PY: 1980
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Magilligan Point is a recurved cuspate foreland at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Two wave regimes intersect in the estuary mouth and the manner of their interplay controls shoreline changes. Ocean swell waves from the N and NE are refracted around the recurve, losing both height and energy longshore. Width of the surf zone decreases and waves tend to steepen, although both these changes and wave refraction owe something to nearshore geometry. Angle of wave approach becomes more acute and a westerly flowing longshore current moves sand S and SW along the beach. Estuary waves from the S and SW are wind-driven with high-frequencies and steepnesses. They generate a northeasterly current which returns material N, but dies out as the waves become obliterated by nearshore attenuation and breaking of swell. It is possible to identify a time-averaged null-point where shoreline wave power is balanced, although this tends to shift over short periods causing rapid morphological changes. The existence of two independent, but counteractive cells ensures the long-term maintenance of the foreland, without requiring major or continuous supplies of fresh sediment.
DE: longshore-currents; nearshore-circulation; longshore-sediment-transport; coastal-morphology; ANE,-British-Isles,-Northern-Ireland,-Magilligan-Point
ID: wave-wave-interaction; wave-refraction; surf-zone; wave-steepness; estuarine-circulation; swell-
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 0046150

                                                                    256 of 309
TI: The trajectories of particles in steep, symmetric gravity waves.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,M.S.-(Dep.-Appl.-Math.-Theor.-Phys.,-Silver-Street,-Cambridge,-UK)
SO: J.-Fluid-Mech., 1979 94(3), 497-517
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: To gain insight into the orbital motion in waves on the point of breaking, the authors first study the trajectories of particles in some ideal irrotational flows, including Stokes' 120 corner-flow, the motion in an almost-highest wave, in periodic deep-water waves of maximum height, and in steep, solitary waves. In Stokes' corner-flow the particles move as though under the action of a constant force directed away from the crest. The orbits are expressible in terms of an elliptic integral. The trajectories of particles in almost-highest waves are generally similar to those in the Stokes' corner-flow, except that the sharp drift gradient at the free surface is now absent. In deep-water irrotational waves of maximum steepness, it is shown that the surface particles advance at a mean speed U equal to 0.274c, where c is the phase-speed. In solitary waves of maximum amplitude, a particle at the surface advances a total distance 4.23 times the depth h during the passage of each wave. The initial angle which the trajectory makes with the horizontal is close to 60. The orbits of subsurface particles are calculated using the 'hexagon' approximation for deep-water waves. Near the free surface the drift has the appearance of a thin forwards jet, arising mainly from the flow near the wave crest. The vertical gradient is so sharp, however, that a mean depth of only 0.01L below the surface (where L is the wavelength) the forwards drift is reduced to less than half its surface value. Under the action of viscosity and turbulence, this sharp gradient will be modified. Nevertheless the orbital motion may contribute appreciably to the observed 'wind-drift current'.
DE: gravity-waves; particle-motion; orbital-motion
ID: Stokes-waves; solitary-waves; particle-velocity; progressive-waves
AN: 0054970

                                                                    257 of 309
TI: Three dimensional beach-stage model.
AU: Short,A.D.-(Coastal-Stud.-Unit,-Dep.-Geogr.,-Univ.-Sydney,-Sydney,-NSW-2006,-Australia)
SO: J.-Geol., 1979 87(5), 553-571
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A three dimensional beach model applicable to open sandy coastal environments is presented. The model consists of ten beach stages incorporating erosional and accretionary sequences of beach-surfzone morphoodynamic conditions. Each stage is associated with a particular level of breaker wave power. Decreasing breaker wave power produces spatially controlled onshore bar migration, eventual bar welding, beach accretion and reflective surfzone conditions (beach stages 6-ar-5-ar-4-ar-3-ar-2-ar-1). Increasing wave power generates beach erosion, dynamically controlled bar-channel formation and dissipative surfzone conditions (stages 1-ar-2'-ar-3'-ar-4'-ar-5'-ar-6). Temporal variations in wave power cause predictable movement through and within the model. The effect of beach gradient (tan ) is considered with regard to the influence on the degree of dissipativeness, edge wave length and cut-off modes, and standing wave length. Steeper coarse grained beaches are more reflective and tend to lower (1,2,2') reflective stages; fine sand, low gradient dissipative beaches favor outer and multiple bars reflecting higher stages (5,5' and 6); with low to moderate gradient, medium sand beaches potentially encompassing the entire spectrum of beach stages presented in the model.
DE: beach-topography; beach-erosion; beach-nourishment; mathematical-models; nearshore-circulation
ID: surfzone-; breaking-waves; beach-slope; grain-size; wave-forces; coastal-morphology
AN: 0023730

                                                                    258 of 309
TI: Change of height of the solitary wave of large amplitude in the beach zone.
AU: Pelinovsky,E.N.; Talipova,T.G.-(Inst.-Appl.-Phys.-Gorky,-USSR)
SO: Mar.-Geod., 1979 2(4), 313-321
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The change of height of the soliary wave of arbitrary amplitude (but of smaller than the critical one at which a wave breaks) on a slope with a smooth change of depth is calculated on the basis of the energy balance equation. The wave breaking depths and amplitudes at which the breaking occurs are determined. It is shown that for practical calculations the dependence H = approx hSUP--1 (H-wave height, h-depth), which is valid for solitons of small amplitude, can be used for other than small heights.
DE: solitary-waves; beaches-; wave-height; gradients-
ID: amplitude-; energy-flux; wave-energy; breaking-waves; solitons-; mathematical-models
AN: 0027820

                                                                    259 of 309
TI: Beach-slope dependence of longshore currents.
AU: Komar,P.D.-(Sch.-Oceanogr.,-Oregon-State-Univ.,-Corvallis,-OR,-USA)
SO: Proc.-Am.-Soc.-Civ.-Eng.,-J.-Waterway,-Port,-Ocean-Div., 1979 105(WW4), 460-464
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An examination is undertaken of the beach-slope dependence of longshore currents generated by waves breaking obliquely to the shoreline.
DE: beach-slope; longshore-currents
AN: 0018940

                                                                    260 of 309
TI: Observations in the turbidity maximum of the St. Lawrence Estuary.
AU: Silverberg,N.; Sundby,B.-(Sect.-Oceanogr.,-Univ.-Quebec-a-Rimouski,-Rimouski,-Que.-G5L-3A1,-Canada)
SO: Can.-J.-Earth-Sci., 1979 16(4), 939-950
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A series of 13 and 26 h anchor stations and individual stations were occupied along the axis of the North Channel of the St. Lawrence Estuary during periods of both high and low river runoff. The data collected have permitted a detailed examination of the variations in salinity, suspended matter concentrations, and the size distributions of the suspended matter and the bottom sediments of the maximum turbidity zone. The high turbidity appears to be maintained by a complex density-driven circulation in combination with the resuspension of bottom sediments near the head of the estuary. The phenomenon may be aided by the breaking of internal waves. A longitudinal structure, which is only slightly influenced by changes in river discharge, is discernible for the zone. The highest concentrations of suspended matter occur in a well mixed region at the head of the estuary and suspended particulate matter levels decrease seaward as a two-layer estuarine circulation becomes better developed.
DE: turbidity-; river-discharge; variation-; suspended-matter; ANW,-St-Lawrence-Estuary
ID: salinity-; density-flow; internal-waves; estuaries-
OZ: Atlantic-Northwest (ANW)
AN: 0015130

                                                                    261 of 309
TI: Breaking waves in deep water and resulting wave forces.
AU: Kjeldsen,S.P.-(River-Harbour-Lab.,-Norwegian-Inst.-Technol.,-Trondheim,-Norway)
SO: Bull.-River-Harbour-Lab.-Norw.-Inst.-Technol., ISSN:-0373-935X 1979 (no. 18E), 20-21
PY: 1979
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new research project has recently been initiated in Norway where the aim is to study shock forces and quasi-stationary wave forces on offshore installations caused by breaking waves in deep water. The steepnesses of such waves are often between 0.10-0.14 and the waves are therefore of finite height, which means that wave characteristics such as particle velocities and quasi-stationary wave pressures cannot be desribed by the first order theory, although this is common practice in design. This project is initiated in order to study near breaking and breaking waves of finite height and characteristic points such as wave form, dispersion, amplitude attenuation, vertical and horizontal asymmetries and resulting shock pressures and quasi-stationary wave pressures on specific installations.
DE: breaking-waves; deep-water; wave-forces
ID: offshore-structures; wave-steepness; wave-velocity; dispersion-; attenuation-
AN: 9183400

                                                                    262 of 309
TI: Finite element modeling of nearshore currents.
AU: Liu,P.L.-F.; Lennon,G.P.-(Sch.-Civ.-Env.-Eng.,-Cornell-Univ.,-Ithaca,-NY,-USA)
SO: Proc.-Am.-Soc.-Civ.-Eng.,-J.-Waterway,-Port,-Coast.-Ocean-Div., 1978 104(WW2), 175-189
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A finite element model is developed to compute the nearshore currents induced by breaking waves in the surf zone. The normal incident wave system is employed so as to study the effects of beach topography on the current circulation patterns. The beach topography considered here is of linear plane beach shape with minor undulations in the longshore direction. Ignoring the lateral turbulent diffusion, the finite element representation of the governing equations of mean currents is obtained by the method of weighted residuals. It is shown that, due to the flexible grid discretization, this model can be used to study problems containing more complex beach topography within a large area of interest. Two types of alongshore beach undulations are investigated: rhythmic topography and localized irregular topography. The locations of rip currents depend on the surf zone width and the on-offshore variation of beach profile.
DE: coastal-currents; nearshore-circulation; mathematical-models; coastal-morphology
ID: bed-forms; roughness-; coastal-engineering; finite-element-method; water-waves; littoral-currents; breaking-waves; beaches-; turbulence-; diffusion-; topography-
AN: 9180600

                                                                    263 of 309
TI: Aerosol particle size measurements at San Nicolas Island during CEWCOM-78.
AU: Jeck,R.K.-(Ocean-Sci.-Div.,-Nav.-Res.-Lab.-Washington,-DC-20375,-USA)
SO: Rep.-NRL-Prog., 1979 (no. 3), 22-23
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Particulate aerosol size spectra obtained during the CEWCOM-78 exercise (8-22 May 1978) at San Nicolas Island, California, are presented for the particle size range 0.7- to 45-m diameter, as measured with a PMS Axially Scattering Spectrometer Probe. In addition, an informal account of the daily meteorological and visibility conditions as observed visually from several vantage points on the island is given to help in the interpretation of the aerosol and optical data collected during the measurement session. These observations point out: (1) the need for slant path optical transmission measurements due to the generally strong, vertical gradient in visibility in the lowest 300 m or so above sea level; (2) the general susceptibility of Sites A and D to surf-generated aerosols and the additional susceptibility to dust for winds above 10 m/s; (3) the suitability of the upper two levels of the NRL tower for representative aerosol measurements, except possibly during near calm wind conditions; (4) the suitability of SNI as a site for obtaining optical transmission measurements in maritime clouds; and (5) the existence of a newly observed phenomenon in which the downward vortex of air behind large, breaking or cresting waves in high-wind situations prevents much of the crest-generated spray from becoming airborne. This mechanism may help explain the recently reported cases where the particle concentrations are lower and the visibilities are better in high-wind situations than is to be expected from aerosol models, where particle number densities increase indefinitely with wind speed.
DE: aerosols-; particle-size; weather-conditions; optical-properties; USA,-California,-San-Nicolas-I.
ID: winds-; clouds-
AN: 9169000

                                                                    264 of 309
TI: Bubbles in a freshwater lake.
AU: Thorpe,S.A.; Stubbs,A.R.-(Inst.-Oceanogr.-Sci.,-Wormley,-Godalming,-Surrey,-UK)
SO: Nature, 1979 279(5712), 403-405
PY: 1979
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: When the wind is strong enough to produce whitecaps on Loch Ness, patchy 'clouds' of acoustic reflectors are detected well below the surface, the depth to which they penetrate increasing with wind speed. No seasonal variation in the occurrence of the reflectors has been detected. A biological explanation is therefore discounted and it is suggested here that they are bubbles caused by waves breaking and forming whitecaps in deep water. Similar bubble clouds may occur in other lakes and in the sea.
DE: bubbles-; air-water-interface; lakes-
AN: 9176840

                                                                    265 of 309
TI: Statistical and spectral characteristics of wind waves in shallow waters.
AU: Druet,C.; Massel,S.-(Pol.-Acad.-Sci.,-Inst.-Oceanol.,-Sopot,-Poland)
SO: Oceaologia-Oceanology, 1978 (no. 9), 259-262
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: French; Polish
PT: J (Journal-Article); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The purpose of the paper is to give a brief account of the basic results of field investigations carried out in the shallow water zone by the Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences during the last few years. The most complex investigations were carried out during the 'Lubiatowo 74' International Expedition. The breaker zone at Lubiatowo presents a typical multi-underwater bars zone. The wave meters were situated at several points within the range of depth: 0-6.5 m. The wave spectra are narrow-band, with the energy concentrated around one frequency. As a result of wave breaking, the energy gradually decreases, the peak frequency remaining unchanged. In many spectra second peaks can easily be observed; the frequency is associated with double basic frequency. The mechanism of the generation of such energy distribution is still not explained in full. The process of energy transformation and dissipation, typical of the shallow water zone, can only be described by nonlinear equations with wave-wave interaction terms. Therefore, within the framework of statistical formulations, the function of the probability density for the sea surface elevation is not Gaussian. The presence of the skewness and kurtosis coefficients in the probability distribution formula also causes some deviation from the classical formulas for the distribution function for other characteristic wave parameters. Based on the above analysis some guidelines have been formulated for the computation of mean wave characteristics in the surf zone.
DE: wave-spectra; statistical-analysis; wind-waves; shallow-water; breaking-waves; wave-energy; ANE,-Poland
ID: surf-zone
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 9020780

                                                                    266 of 309
TI: Breaking waves in deep water and resulting wave forces.
AU: Kjeldsen,S.P.
CA: Norwegian Institute of Technology, Trondheim. River and Harbour Laboratory
SO: Bull.-Norw.-Inst.-Technol.,-River-Harbour-Lab., 1979 (no. 18E), 20-22
PY: 1979
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new research project has recently been initiated in Norway where the aim is to study shock forces and quasi-stationary wave forces on offshore instalations caused by breaking waves in deep water. The steepnesses of such waves are often between 0.10-0.14 and the waves are therefore of finite height, which means that wave characteristics such as particle velocities and quasi-stationary wave pressures cannot be described by the first order theory, although this is common practice in design. This project is then initiated in order to study near breaking and breaking waves of finite height and characteristic points such as wave form, dispersion, amplitude attenuation, vertical and horizontal asymmetries and resulting shock pressures and quasi-stationary wave pressures on specific installations. It is concluded that highly asymmetric near breaking deep water waves causes ultimate loads on offshore installations and both quasi-stationary wave pressures and particle velocities and very far from predictions made from a lower order wave theory. This latter, however, is still used in common practice in design. Possible relations between shock pressures and wave forms or kinematics will be of practical importance.
DE: breaking-waves; wave-forces; deep-water; offshore-structures
ID: wave-steepness; wave-height; particle-velocity; wave-amplitude; attenuation-
AN: 9159760

                                                                    267 of 309
TI: The performance of a wave gauge in bubbly water - what does it measure?
AU: Hansen,J.B..
CA: Technical University of Denmark, Lyngby. Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering.
SO: Prog.-Rep.-Tech.-Univ.-Denmark,-Inst.-Hydrodynam.-Hydraul.-Eng., 1979 (no.48), 3-8
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In the experimental investigation of waves breaking on a beach it is important to be able to measure accurately the surface profiles of broken waves. Waves in the surf zone, at least those close to the breaking point, are obviously influenced by air entrained as bubbles or even as air pockets. The profile of the foaming wave can sometimes be determined from photos, but when conductivity (or resistance) type wave gauges are used for measuring the surface elevations, the influence of the entrained air on the wave gauge output must be analysed further in order to determine precisely what is being recorded. Detailed investigation of the wave gauge performance was therefore carried out in a vessel with controlled air entrainment.
DE: wave-gauges; wave-measurement; breaking-waves; surf-zone
ID: bubbles-
AN: 9158970

                                                                    268 of 309
TI: Comments on 'The observed generation and breaking of atmospheric internal gravity waves over the ocean': Reply.
AU: SethuRaman,S.-(Atmos.-Sci.-Div.,-Brookhaven-Natl.-Lab.,-Upton,-NY-11973,-USA)
SO: Boundary-Layer-Meteorol., 1979 16(3), 391
PY: 1979
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The author would like to thank Caughey and Readings for bringing to his attention the error in the units of N used in the paper. The revised nSUB-w from Equation 10 should be 0.00015 Hz. The difference in the nSUB-w values obtained might be due to the simplicity of the models and the lack of detailed measurements. Values of u/w were based on actual observations.  was between 1 and 2 deg., which is normally observed over water during very stable conditions. The smallest elevation angle that could be measured was 0.1 deg.
DE: gravity-waves; internal-waves; atmosphere-
ID: wave-generation; boundary-layers
AN: 9121050

                                                                    269 of 309
TI: Comments on 'The observed generation and breaking of atmospheric internal gravity waves over the ocean'.
AU: Caughey,S.J.; Readings,C.J.-(Meteorol.-Res.-Unit,-R.A.F.-Cardington,-UK)
SO: Boundary-Layer-Meteorol., 1979 16(3), 389-390
PY: 1979
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In the paper by SethuRaman (1977) an error seems to have been made in the estimation of the Brunt-Vaisala frequency (N). The author assumes that the value obtained is in Hz which is not the case. The actual units of the value obtained are radians/sec, which is converted to Hz by a factor of (2)SUP--1. Hence the average value of N between 0 and 300 m should be 0.0053 Hz, not 0.033, as found by SethuRaman. The value of nSUB-w obtained by the method of Hooke et al. (1973) is changed from 0.00092 to 0.00015. The method of Caughey and Readings (1975) gives a value of 0.0009, which is different from the revised value of 0.00015. The disparity between the two values may arise from the author's use of an average value for N across the lowest 300 m. N at 23.5 m was probably much greater than the 0-300 m average, a value of about 0.01 Hz being obtained from the dotted profile in the vicinity of 23.5 m. This gives a value of 0.0003 Hz for nSUB-w, closer to the alternative value of 0.0009 Hz. The uncertainties are large and better  profiles would be required to enable a better comparison to be drawn. It would be helpful if the author stated tolerances for u/w, since the quoted value seems large. A reasonable value for u is about 2 m/sec and these variations are associated with elevation changes of 1-2 . These figures indicate that u/w is in the range 7-15, with corresponding nSUB-w values (for N = 0.01 Hz) between 0.007 and 0.001 Hz. The value of nSUB-w of 0.0009 Hz, obtained by the method of Caughey and Readings (1975) falls within these values. The authors also comment on the question of the differentiation between waves and turbulence. In the present case the wave amplitude was relatively small (<2 the height of the observation level above the surface) and fairly constant with time. Thus it is not surprising that in this case, the phase angles closely approximated the theoretical values. It cannot be expected that this condition will apply in all cases.
DE: gravity-waves; internal-waves; atmosphere-
ID: wave-generation; boundary-layers
AN: 9121060

                                                                    270 of 309
TI: Breaking waves in deep water and resulting wave forces.
AU: Kjeldsen,S.P.; Myrhaug,D.-(River-and-Harbour-Lab.,-Trondhiem,-Norway)
SO: Norw.-Marit.-Res., 1979 7(2), 26-34
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In a series of laboratory experiments dispersion properties of water waves are used to generate a non-steady situation where one wave train overtakes another resulting in the generation of an extreme wave. Collisions between nonlinear wave forms are studied in detail qualitatively and quantitatively, and results are obtained for characteristic wave properties: form, attenuation, dispersion, initiation and type of breaking, total pressure head and shock pressures. Results are also included for cases where currents are superimposed upon the mechanism for the generation of extreme waves. The laboratory experiments showed that three distinct types of breaking waves could be generated by wave-wave interaction in deep water, namely plunging breakers, deep water bores and spilling breakers. Field data on extreme waves obtained from wave rider buoys were analysed with the zero-downcross method which provided a wave height parameter relevant to the evaluation both of shock pressures and of the operation and stability of smaller vessels.
DE: deep-water; breaking-waves; wave-forces; wave-wave-interaction
ID: non-linear-waves; wave-height
AN: 9103230

                                                                    271 of 309
TI: The capsizing of M/S Helland-Hansen-. The investigation and recommendations for preventing similar accidents. /[Presented at-: Spring Meeting of the Royal Institute of Naval Architects; London (UK); 24 Apr. 1979].
AU: Dahle,E.A.; Kjaerland,O.-(Norwegian-Univ.-Fish.,-Norway)
CO: /[Presented at-: Spring Meeting of the Royal Institute of Naval Architects  London (UK)  24 Apr. 1979].
SO: Nav.-Archit., 1979 (no. 2), 78-79
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1979
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In a capsizing investigation of the 35 m M/S Helland-Hansen- model experiments have been performed with the vessel in ballast condition positioned broadside to breaking waves. These showed that the stability requirements set forth at the Torremolinos International Conference for the Safety of Fishing Vessels 1977 are inadequate. The GZ curve should be positive up to heeling angles of at least 80 degrees to prevent capsizing.
DE: ship-stability; fishing-vessels; Helland-Hansen; safety-regulations; design-
AN: 9102900

                                                                    272 of 309
TI: Capsizing of small trawlers. /[Presented at-: Spring Meeting of the Royal Institute of Naval Architects; London (UK); 24 Apr 1979].
AU: Morrall,A.-(Natl.-Marit.-Inst.,-Faggs-Rd.,-Feltham,-Middlesex,-UK)
CO: /[Presented at-: Spring Meeting of the Royal Institute of Naval Architects  London (UK)  24 Apr 1979].
SO: Nav.-Archit., 1979 (no. 2), 78-79
NT: Summary only.
PY: 1979
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Results are presented of an investigation into the behaviour in rough water and breaking waves of two inshore fishing vessels having almost identical principal dimensions and displacement, but with different statical stability characteristics. In breaking waves, hydrodynamic conditions exist which may endanger a small fishing vessel with an inadequate reserve of stability. The margin of stability for small inshore fishing vessels as required by the IMCO criteria appears to be insufficient to prevent capsizing in certain sea conditions.
DE: ship-stability; fishing-vessels; hydrodynamics-
ID: water-waves
AN: 9102910

                                                                    273 of 309
TI: The mixing of oil spills into the sea by breaking waves.
AU: Naess,A.-(Ship-Res.-Inst.-Norway,-Trondheim,-Norway)
SO: Norw.-Marit.-Res., 1979 7(2), 35-43
PY: 1979
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A problem of considerable importance to pollution control out on the high seas is the mixing of an oil spill into the sea caused by breaking waves. In this paper, the author proposes a theoretical model which he believes represents a fruitful approach to the problem of determining the amount of oil mixed into the sea by breaking waves. The model is based primarily on probabilistic methods, but with experimental observations and data as an essential foundation. In order to illustrate the theoretical model some numerical examples are given.
DE: oil-spills; breaking-waves; pollution-control; mathematical-models; water-waves-action; water-mixing
ID: water-waves; mixing-
AN: 9103240

                                                                    274 of 309
TI: Beach erosion at Waihi Beach Bay of Plenty, New Zealand.
AU: Harray,K.G.; Healy,T.R.-(Dep.-Earth-Sci.,-Univ.-Waikato,-Hamilton,-New-Zealand)
SO: N.Z.-J.-Mar.-Freshwater-Res., 1978 12(2), 99-107
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Since the 1940s, severe dune erosion has threatened property at Waihi Beach. This paper investigates beach erosion and dune recession in relation to wave climate, sedimentology and mineralogy of the beach sediments, cyclical beach changes and sediment budget, and the littoral drift. Average dune recession along the entire beach between 1948 and 1977 was 27 m, although maximum recession recorded to 1977 was 83 m. Sand loss rates 1948-1977 average 3.4 mSUP-3 per metre of beach per year. The sediment budget of the entire beach is about 850 x 10SUP-3 mSUP-3 and up to 74% of this was recorded as being 'cut' from the beach in one erosive episode. The cut and fill cycles are dominantly controlled by wave steepness, which has a critical value of 2.1 x 10SUP--3 for breaking waves on Waihi Beach. Net littoral drift is towards the south-east, and the basic reason for beach erosion at Waihi Beach is the lack of sediment to supply the littoral drift.
DE: beach-erosion; dunes-; littoral-currents; PSE,-New-Zealand,-Waihi-Beach
ID: waves-forces; sediment-transport; mineralogy-
OZ: Polar-Antarctic-Eastward (PSE)
AN: 9083390

                                                                    275 of 309
TI: Model study of the effect of a reef on ocean waves. /[Presented at-: ASME Annual Winter Meeting; [np] USA; 10 Dec 1978].
AU: Johnson,P.G.; Dalton,C.-(Dow-Chemical-Co,,-Houston,-TX,-USA)
CO: /[Presented at-: ASME Annual Winter Meeting  [np] USA  10 Dec 1978].
SO: Mech.-Eng., 1979 101(2), 130-131
PY: 1979
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); Y (Summary)
AB: An area of the West Flow Gardens coral reef in the Gulf of Mexico is a possible site for an offshore research platform. Little data are available from which to not only select a design wave but to determine how that design wave would be affected by the rapidly changing bottom (reef) contour. To illustrate how a design wave is affected by a submerged barrier such as a reef, an in-depth analysis is offered of a particular West Flow Gardens site leading to the construction of a model of a portion of the reef. Although the model results are applicable only to a prototype comparison, the conjecture is offered that other reasonably similar situations would experience like effects. This is important for platform location since it is desirable to avoid breaking waves. This is due to the increased particle velocities present in breaking waves.
DE: coral-reefs; offshore-platforms; design-wave; models-; breaking-waves; particle-velocity; wave-forces; ASW,-Mexico-Gulf,-West-Flow-Gardens
ID: barriers-
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 9077930

                                                                    276 of 309
TI: Estimation of swash parameters.
OT: Ocena parametrow naplywu fali na sklon brzegowy po jej zalamaniu.
AU: Szulak,B.A.-(Akad.-Nauk-SSSR,-Inst.-Geogr.,-Moscow,-USSR)
SO: Oceanologia-Oceanology, 1978 (no. 8), 75-87
PY: 1978
LA: Polish
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The results of two-dimensional analysis are presented for swash due to breaking waves on a filtering beach. The relationships obtained for swash parameters permit the swash limit, maximum and mean velocities of water particles in swash flow, duration of motion, and other parameters to be correlated with the parameters of breaking waves. Approximated as they are, the relationships still have interesting practical implications, particularly because of their contribution to a possible mathematical model of transformation of an accretion due to sea waves.
DE: water-waves-action; hydrodynamics-; mathematical-models; beaches-; coastal-zone
ID: water-waves; accretion-
AN: 9009470

                                                                    277 of 309
TI: Edge waves and surf beat.
AU: Bowen,A.J.-(Dep.-Oceanogr.,-Dalhousie-Univ.,-Halifax,-NS,-Canada)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res., 1978 83(C4), 1913-1920
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Surf beat, wave motion at relatively low frequency (periods of 30-200 s), is often observed on beaches. However, even with modern instrumentation it is difficult to describe the spatial variation of the low-frequency motion; consequently, the relative importance of a number of suggestions which, at least in theory, provide mechanisms for the generation of low-frequency energy has never been established. Recent observations (e.g., Huntley, 1976) have reinforced the idea that edge waves, the free wave modes trapped at the shoreline, are a major component of low-frequency energy. One of the most interesting explanations of surf beat suggests that the beating between particular pairs of incoming waves leads to resonant growth of edge wave models, which may then dominate the low-frequency spectrum (Gallagher, 1971). Empirical evidence is essential, as any theoretical development breaks down when the incoming waves break, a fundamental problem with Gallagher's (1971) model. To investigate the importance of this resonant interaction, the general interaction conditions were therefore used to design laboratory experiments in which both resonant and nonresonant conditions were expected. The experimental results show that the response at the beat frequency is stronger when the resonance conditions for edge wave growth are satisfied and that the response is in the form of the theoretically predicted edge wave mode, even when the incident waves are breaking. These results strongly suggest that surf beat is predominantly an edge wave phenomenon.
DE: edge-waves; surf-beat; beaches-; coastal-zone
AN: 9032800

                                                                    278 of 309
TI: The deformation of steep surface waves on water. 2. Growth of normal-mode instabilities.
AU: Longuet-Higgins,M.S.; Cokelet,E.D.-(Dep.-Appl.-Math.-and-Theor.-Phys.,-Silver-Street,-Cambridge,-UK)
SO: Proc.-R.-Soc.-Lond.,-Ser.-A., 1978 364(1716), 1-28
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Studies of the normal-mode perturbations of steep gravity waves (Longuet-Higgins 1978) have suggested two distinct types of instability: at low wave steepnesses the authors find subharmonic instabilities with fairly low rates of growth, and at higher wave steepnesses there are apparently local ('superharmonic') instabilities leading directly to wave breaking. Between these two types of instability is an intermediate range of wave steepnesses where the unperturbed wave train is neutrally stable. In the present paper the authors employ the time-stepping method of an earlier paper (Longuet-Higgins and Cokelet 1976) to test the rate of growth of each type of instability. For the initial linear stages of each instability, the computed rates of growth are accurately confirmed, and it is verified that the local instability does indeed lead to breaking. The later nonlinear stages of the subharmonic instabilities are further investigated. In the two examples so far computed it is found that the gradual rates of growth of the subharmonic instabilities are maintained, and that ultimately every alternate crest develops a fast-growing local instability which quickly leads to breaking.
DE: deformation-; surface-waves; gravity-waves; instability-
AN: 9071750

                                                                    279 of 309
TI: Oil spills the causes and the cures.
AU: Seabrook-Hull,E.W.-(Address-not-stated)
SO: Sea-Front, 1978 24(6), 360-369
PY: 1978
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Although stem measures can, and should, be taken to reduce the chances of oil-spilling accidents, there is no way to stop petroleum from escaping into the marine environment. Since natural seepages contribute some 600,000 tons of crude oil of the estimated 6-10 million tons entering the sea each year. The remainder is made up from 2.1 million tons due to ocean transport (accidents, bilge cleaning, ballast dumping, etc.), 1.9 million as runoff from rives, bays and harbours; 80,000 tons-offshore drilling; and atmospheric fallout-600,000 tons. The ocean responds naturally to such input and begins clean-up operations immediately _ some 70 species of bacteria and certain yeasts consume oil. Fractionation occurs immediately on release to sea water and wind, waves and ocean currents move the oil about breaking sheets into smaller patches. Eventually the oil completely disperses, degrades and disappears. Many scemes have been conceived for fighting oil spills, ranging from straw to mop it up, dispersants, chemically treated sand and chalk to attract and sink it, booms to contain it, and skimmers to lick if off the waters surface. Each has its drawbacks. One of the most promising areas of research now seems to be the use of petrophilic bacteria. Through genetic engineering a single strain of bacteria has been formed combining the digestive capabilities of four different hydrocarbon-consuming bacteria. Another form of research has developed a mixed culture of several different strains of natural bacteria that can be stored indefinitely as a dried powder, ready for use at a moments notice.
DE: oil-spills; oil-seepages; pollution-control; bacteria-
ID: use-; marine-microorganisms; pollution-clean-up
AN: 9060090

                                                                    280 of 309
TI: Mixing in an Arctic fjord.
AU: Perkin,R.G.; Lewis,E.L.-(Frozen-Sea-Res.-Group,-Inst.-Ocean-Sci.,-Sidney,-B.C.,-V8L-3S2,-Canada)
SO: J.-Phys.-Oceanogr., 1978 8(5), 873-880
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements made in Cambridge Bay, N.W.T., during the winter show that the breaking of internal waves on the shore influences downward salt transport from the homogeneous surface layer produced by saline convection beneath sea ice during growth. Denser water from the shallows, where the depth of this convective layer is limited by the sea bed, flows down the slope to the layer interface contour where the breaking waves introduce turbulence aiding mixing of the convecting water into the lower layer. Away from the boundaries entrainment of salt from the lower to the upper mixed layer is aided by the internal waves on the interface. These two salt transports, downward at the boundaries upward over the basin, produce horizontal salinity gradients which overall make water in the shallows less saline than the surface layer of the basin. The energies available for these mixing processes are estimated.
DE: internal-waves; water-mixing; fiords-; PNW,-Canada,-North-West-Territories
OZ: Polar-Arctic-Westward (PNW)
AN: 9045860

                                                                    281 of 309
TI: Mixing and oceanic productivity.
AU: McGowan,J.A.; Hayward,T.L.-(Scripps-Inst.-Oceanogr.,-Univ.-California,-San-Diego,-La-Jolla,-CA-92093,-USA)
SO: Deep-Sea-Res., 1978 25(9), 771-793
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: An unusual oceanographic event in 1969 has allowed the authors to investigate how nutrients are mixed into the euphotic zone of the oligotrophic central gyre of the North Pacific. A doubling of the rate of primary production and a significant increase in the standing crop of zooplankton were the original evidence. The interpretation of these and of the physical data has led to the belief that a mixing episode, or rather a series of small mixing events, took place. The authrs hypothesize that the mixing was upward from below the euphotic zone rather than downward from the surface. A layer where the depth variance of isotherms was at a maximum was observed. This was also a maximum in the frequency of temperature inversions. While the layer could be due to a large number of intrusions of water of anomalous temperatures and therefore at a given density anomalous salinity, the T-S diagrams do not indicate that such anomalous salinities were present. Thus it is interpreted that the depth variance of the isotherm layer is a result of up and down movement of the water, perhaps internal waves. Although present in other years, this layer was shoaler in 1969, bringing it to the top of the nutricline and closer to the bottom of the euphotic zone. It is suggested that shear induced turbulence or breaking internal waves, or both, may act as a nutrient pump in an otherwise stably stratified water column.
DE: water-mixing; nutrients-mineral; primary-production; stratification-; euphotic-zone; internal-waves; IN-
ID: gyres-; turbulence-; effects-on; marine-environments
AN: 9033870

                                                                    282 of 309
TI: On the numerical modelling of short waves in shallow water.
AU: Abbott,M.B.; Petersen,H.M.; Skovgaard,O.-(Int.-Inst.-Hydraul.-Environ.-Eng.,-Delft,-Netherlands)
SO: J.-Hydraul.-Res., 1978 16(3), 173-204
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: A modelling system is described that generates and runs models of short waves of any form (periodic or irregular), with any desired physically realistic current field over any given bathymetry. As this system constitutes the eighth version of the general System 21, 'Jupiter', described in an earlier contribution, it is called the 'Mark 8'. The system-generated models are based upon Boussinesq equations, in which the vertical velocity is supposed to increase linearly from zero at the bed to a maximum magnitude at the surface, in two independent (horizontal) space variables and time. The Boussinesq equations are formulated as mass and momentum conservation laws while, by virtue of the high order of accuracy of the difference approximations, there is very little numerical energy falsification. This formulation also appears to provide genuine weak solutions, for correctly simulating breaking waves, and thus assures the correct simulation of wave thrusts, or radiation stresses, and associated longshore currents. The System has been tested against analytical results in one and two dimensions and also against physical model tests, for all its main capabilities. In all cases, the agreement of the System model results with the analytical and physical results are satisfactory. The System is already being applied in engineering practice. A discussion is presented of future applications of the System to ship motion simulations, to sediment transport computations and also to more efficient nearly-horizontal flow computations.
DE: shallow-water-waves; mathematical-models
AN: 9016380

                                                                    283 of 309
TI: On internal gravity waves in an accelerating shear flow.
AU: Thorpe,S.A.-(Inst.-Oceanogr.-Sci.,-Wormley,-Godalming,-Surrey,-UK)
SO: Geol.-Mijnbouw, 1978 88(4), 623-639
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The investigation of the effects which a changing mean flow has on a uniform train of internal gravity waves (Thorpe 1978) is continued by considering waves in a uniformly accelerating stratified plane Couette flow with constant density gradient. Experiments reveal a change in the mode structure and phase distribution of the waves, and their eventual breaking near the boundary where the mean flow is greatest, the phase speed of the waves being positive. A linear numerical model is devised which accurately describes the waves up to the onset of their breaking, and this is used to investigate their energetics. The working of the Reynolds stress against the mean velocity gradient results in a very rapid transfer of energy from the waves to the mean flow, so that by the time breaking occurs only a small fraction of their initial energy remains for possible transfer into potential energy of the fluid. The consequences have important applications in oceanography and meteorology, to flow stability and flow generation, and explain some earlier laboratory observations.
DE: internal-waves; gravity-waves; mathematical-models; Reynolds-stress
AN: 9008270

                                                                    284 of 309
TI: Diurnal energy balance of a Caribbean barrier reef environment.
AU: Kjerfve,B.-(Mar.-Sci.-Program,-Dep.-Geol.,-Univ.-of-South-Carolina,-Columbia,-SC-29208,-USA)
SO: Bull.-Mar.-Sci., 1978 28(1), 137-145
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The diurnal means and variations of the energy balance components are computed and compared for a sandy cay and a shallow lagoon at Carrie Bow Cay along the Belize barrier reef in the western Caribbean. The results are representative of the heating season from March through September. For the lagoon, net radiation, water currents, and breaking waves on the average, supply 124, 103, and 31 W m-SUP--2-, respectively. This irradiance gain at the surface is balanced by a 202 W m-SUP--2- evaporative heat flux and a 56 W m-SUP--2- sensible heat flux. On the average, net radiation supplies 64 W m-SUP--2- to the sand surface of which 54 W m-SUP--2- returns to the atmosphere through evaporation and 10 W m-SUP--2- through sensible irradiance. The mean ground heat flux component is in each instance negligible.
DE: energy-balance; diurnal-variations; coral-reefs; heat-budget; ASW,-Belize
ID: irradiance-; water-currents; climatic-data
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 8192580

                                                                    285 of 309
TI: Mechanics of a restrained layer of floating oil above a water current.
AU: Milgram,J.H.; Van-Houten,R.J.-(Massachusetts-Inst.-Technol.,-Cambridge,-MA,-USA)
SO: J.-Hydronaut., 1978 12(3), 93-108
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: This paper determines the relative importance of interfacial shear stress and dynamic pressure in determining the thickness distribution of a layer of floating oil contained by a barrier above a water current. This is done by use of an equation relating vertical location of the oil-water interface, dynamic pressure, and shear stress. The interfacial shape is measured experimentally. The dynamic pressure is determined by numerical solution of the potential flow problem for flow beneath the measured shape. The aforementioned equation then yields the shear stress distribution. The rear portion of restrained oil layers are found to be governed by shear stress as are the forward portions for low current speeds. At higher current speeds, both dynamic pressure and shear stress are important in determining the shape of the forward portions. Large friction coefficients are shown to be due to flow over a rough interface resulting from the generation of Kelvin-Helmholtz waves on the interface. The entrainment of oil droplets into the water flow is shown to be the result of breaking of the Kelvin-Helmholtz waves.
DE: oil-slicks; water-currents; hydrodynamics-
ID: pollution-control; oil-spills
AN: 8173230

                                                                    286 of 309
TI: Edge waves and surf beat.
AU: Bowen,A.J.; Guza,R.T.-(Dep.-Oceanogr.,-Dalhousie-Univ.,-Halifax,-NS,-Canada)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res., 1978 83(C4), 1913-1920
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Surf beat, wave motion at relatively low frequency (periods of 30-200 s), is often observed on beaches. However, even with modern instrumentation it is difficult to describe the spatial variation of the low-frequency motion; consequently, the relative importance of a number of suggestions which, at least in theory, provide mechanisms for the generation of low-frequency energy has never been established. Recent observations (e.g., Huntley, 1976) have reinforced the idea that edge waves, the free wave modes trapped at the shoreline, are a major component of low-frequency energy. One of the most interesting explanations of surf beat suggests that the beating between particular pairs of incoming waves leads to resonant growth of edge wave models, which may then dominate the low-frequency spectrum (Gallagher, 1971). Empirical evidence is essential, as any theoretical development breaks down when the incoming waves break, a fundamental problem with Gallagher's (1971) model. To investigate the importance of this resonant interaction, the general interaction conditions were therefore used to design laboratory experiments in which both resonant and nonresonant conditions were expected. The experimental results show that the response at the beat frequency is stronger when the resonance conditions for edge wave growth are satisfied and that the response is in the form of the theoretically predicted edge wave mode, even when the incident waves are breaking. These results strongly suggest that surf beat is predominantly an edge wave phenomenon.
DE: edge-waves; surf-beat; wave-energy
ID: resonance-
AN: 8149270

                                                                    287 of 309
TI: Representation of water particle velocity of breaking waves on beaches by Dean's stream function.
AU: Iwagaki,-Y.; Sakai,-T.-(Dep.-Civ.-Eng.,-Kyoto-Univ.,-Kyoto,-Japan)
SO: Mem.-Fac.-Eng.-Kyoto-Univ., 1976 38(1), 11-20
PY: 1976
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Experimental values of water particle velocity of breaking waves on uniformly sloping beaches differ considerably from the theoretical values of Stokes waves of the third order and cnoidal waves of the second approximation. In this paper, Dean's stream functions are calculated by giving simultaneously measured time variations of the water level of the breaking waves. Vertical distributions of horizontal water particle velocity at the crest phase, calculated by using these stream functions, are compared with experimental distributions in order to discuss the applicability of Dean's stream function method. These theoretical distributions can explain the experimental results well, although this stream function method assumes permanent waves in uniform depth. Dean's stream function can express an asymmetric wave profile as that of breaking waves on sloping beaches, while the Stokes wave theory has a symmetric wave profile. It is suggested that the breaking wave profile dominates the water particle velocity field of breaking waves.
DE: breaking-waves; velocity-
ID: gradient-; beaches-; profiles-
AN: 8164750

                                                                    288 of 309
TI: Predicting beach erosion as a function of rising water level.
AU: Dubois,-R.N.-(Dep.-Geogr.,-Univ.-Maryland-Baltimore-County,-Baltimore,-MD-21228,-USA)
SO: J.-Geol., 1977 85(4), 470-476
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A model has been constructed to predict the horizontal distance of shoreline recession that occurs when a beach and nearshore zone in dynamic equilibrium is subjected to a rise in water level. The horizontal distance of shoreline recession (X) is inversely proportioned to the angle of the nearshore slope seaward from breaking waves (-phi-), and directly proportioned to the rise in water level (a): X = a/Tan -phi-. The volume of sediment eroded from the beach is equal to the volume of sediment deposited in the nearshore up to and including the position where waves break: Xh = ab where h is the vertical distance from the foreshore crest to the foreshore base, and b is the distance from the foreshore base to the position of breaking waves.
DE: mathematical-models; coastal-erosion; wave-energy; sea-level
ID: tide-gauges
AN: 8007250

                                                                    289 of 309
TI: Gravel-lens formation in antidune-regime flow - a quantitative hydrodynamic indicator.
AU: Foley,-M.G.-(Dep.-Geol.,-Univ.-Missouri-Columbia,-Columbia,-MS-65201,-USA)
SO: J.-Sediment.-Petrol., 1977 47(2), 738-746
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: Field and laboratory experiments suggest that gravel in transport as bedload can be trapped on the upstream sides of antidunes by flow disruptions caused by breaking stationary waves. Trapped gravel patches are quickly buried by the migrating antidunes, and if not destroyed by subsequent scour, remain as gravel lenses herein called 'dropout armor'. If clasts in the lenses include the largest size transportable by the flow, maximum bed shear stress can be determined from Shield's criterion. If channel slope, width, and bed material are known, flow depth and mean velocity, antidune geometry (height and wavelength), and maximum discharge can be calculated. If channel slope and width cannot be determined independently, knowledge of maximum bed shear-stress still allows estimation of mean flow velocity and antidune geometry, and flow depth and slope can be estimated from the velocity profile. However, lack of accurate knowledge of the influence of suspended sediment on the velocity profile compromises the accuracy of these estimates unless channel slope can be determined by independent means, or antidune geometry and water depth estimated from antidune cross-laminae.
DE: aggregates-; water-waves; wave-velocity; sedimentation-; water-depth
ID: water-channels; morphology-; hydrodynamics-; bed-load
AN: 8006850

                                                                    290 of 309
TI: On the deformation of periodic long waves over a gently sloping bottom.
AU: Svendsen,-Ib.A.; Buhr-Hansen,-J.-(Inst.-Hydrodyn.-and-Hydraul.-Eng.,-Tech.-Univ.-Denmark,-DK-2800-Lyngby,-Denmark)
SO: J.-Fluid-Mech., 1978 87(3), 433-448
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Two-dimensional time-periodic water waves on a gently sloping bottom are investigated under the classical long-wave assumptions that -epsilon-=h'-SUB-0-/-lamda-' and -delta-=H'/h'-SUB-0- are small parameters (H' being the wave height, h'-SUB-0- a characteristic water depth and -lamda-' the horizontal scale for the oscillatory motion) and the assumption that -delta-/-epsilon--SUP-2-=O(1) as -delta- and -epsilon- tend to zero. It is shown that for a bottom slope h-SUB-x- for which h-SUB-x-=o(-epsilon--SUP-3-) the governing KdV equation with slowly varying coefficients (derived by Johnson 1973a) has a time-periodic solution which in the first approximation is a slowly varying cnoidal wave. The second-order approximation in an asymptotic expansion with respect to the bottom slope represents the deformation of this wave due to the sloping bottom. For h-SUB-x->>-epsilon--SUP-5- this deformation is larger than the second-order contribution from the basic expansion with respect to wave amplitude which underlies the KdV equation itself; the calculation is then a consistent approximation to physical reality. Numerical results for the deformation are given. Also, the wave profiles are compared with experiments on a plane of slope h-SUB-x-=1/35 and show good agreement even for the large values of H'/h' appropriate to waves rather close to breaking.
DE: long-waves; hydrodynamics-
ID: water-waves; wave-height
AN: 8148040

                                                                    291 of 309
TI: Breaking invariants in shoaling waves.
AU: Van-Dorn,-W.G.-(Scripps-Inst.-Oceanogr.,-Univ.-California,-La-Jolla,-CA-92093,-USA)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res., 1978 83(C6), 2981-2988
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: The inability of present theory to describe correctly the shoaling transformation of surface gravity waves is well recognized. It owes, at least in part, to the lack of experimental information on internal flow fields. This paper describes a portion of the results from laboratory experiments in which the time histories of surface elevation, crest speed, and horizontal subsurface flow veocities in trains of uniform waves were measured at a plurality of stations before and after breaking, as functions of (uniform) beach slope and wave frequency. It was found that over gentle slopes, wave breaking is characterized by invariancy of crest profiles and kinematics and that most important breaking parameters can be expressed in terms of period and breaker height, the latter of which appears to be related simply to deepwater height and steepness.
DE: breakers-; gravity-waves; beach-slope
ID: water-depth; wave-height; wave-period
AN: 8149450

                                                                    292 of 309
TI: Measurements and models of fine structure, internal gravity waves, and wave breaking in the deep ocean.
AU: Eriksen,-C.C.-(Dep.-Earth-and-Planet.-Sci.,-Massachusetts-Inst.-Technol.,-Cambridge,-MA-02139,-USA)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res., 1978 83(C6), 2989-3009
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Measurements of horizontal and vertical current by propeller cluster current meters and temperature by thermistors mounted on a rigid array 8 m high and 20 m long moored in the oceanic main thermocline near Bermuda are interpreted in terms of thermocline-trapped internal wave modes in the presence of temperature and velocity fine structure. The array was deployed roughly 250 m off the sloping bottom in water roughly 900 m deep on three occasions. Two-turning-point uniformly valid asymptotic solutions to the internal wave equation are developed to describe the wave functions. Mode decay beyond the turning point in depth or frequency produces a sharp cutoff in vertical current spectra above the local buoyancy frequency N(z). An internal wave wave number-frequency spectral model E(-alpha-,-omega-) = E(-omega-/N-SUB-o-)-SUP--2-(-alpha-/-alpha--SUB-o-)-SUP--2- describes vertical current spectra and ratios of potential energy to horizontal kinetic energy. The red wave number shape suppresses peaks in both these quantities at frequencies near N(z). A dip in the vertical current spectra at 0-.-5 cph not predicted by the model appears related to the bottom slope. Temperature fine structure is modeled as a passive vertical field advected by internal waves. Quasi-permanent fine-scale features of the stratification and vertically short internal waves are indistinguishable in this study. The moel of McKean [1974] is generalized to include fine structure fields specified by their vertical wave number spectra. In addition to the traped internal wave model, moored temperature spectra, temperature vertical difference spectra, and coherence over vertical separations are described by using a fine structure vertical wave number spectrum P-SUB-T-(k) = A-SUB-T-k-SUP--5-/-SUP-2- which agrees with other spectra made by using vertical profiling instruments in the range 0-.-1-1-.-0 cpm. Horizontal current fine structure is also modeled as a passive field advected by vertically long internal waves. The model desribes moored horizontal current spectra (least successfully at frequencies near N(z)) and finite difference vertical shear spectra. Contours of temperature in depth versus time indicate possible mixing events. These events appear concurrently with high shear and Richardson numbers 0-.-25Ri1-.-0. Over a 7-m vertical separation a cutoff in Ri at 0-.-25 is observed, indicating possible saturation of the internal wave spectrum.
DE: microstructure-oceanic; current-measurements; thermistors-; internal-waves; models-; wave-spectra; ASW,-Bermuda
ID: water-temperature; water-depth; thermocline-
OZ: Atlantic-Southwest (ASW)
AN: 8149460

                                                                    293 of 309
TI: On a mechanism for breaking of interfacial waves.
AU: Yoshida,-S.-(Dep.-Eng.-Sci.,-Hokkaido-Univ.,-Hokkaido,-Japan)
SO: Coast.-Eng.-Jap., 1977 v.20, 7-15
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: There are two mechanisms for breaking of density interface remote from boundaries. One is breakdown of interface through the Kelvin-Helmholtz instability and the other is a mechanism related to cusped breaking of interfacial waves. In the present study, the latter mechanism is investigated experimentally as well as theoretically. Experimental observations suggest that the cusped breaking of interfacial waves is caused by a deformation of density interface due to the concentrated vortices which appear in an entrained layer beneath the density interface. It was further confirmed numerically that the generation of the concentrated vortices is due to the shear instability in the entrained layer.
DE: breakers-; interface-phenomena
ID: instability-
AN: 8133190

                                                                    294 of 309
TI: An experimental study of tsunami run-up on uniform slopes.
AU: Togashi,-H.; Nakamura,-T.-(Dep.-Civ.-Eng.,-Nagasaki-Univ.,-Nagasaki,-Japan)
SO: Coast.-Eng.-Jap., 1977 v.20, 95-108
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The empirical equations of tsunami run-up height by Kaplan are well known so far, but there are problems in practical applications; for example, it is not valid to compute run-up heights in the field by extrapolating Kaplan's formulae beyond their experimental range, using them together with Green's law. Therefore in the present paper, the applicability of Kaplan's formulae is experimentally reinvestigated at first over a wider range of wave steepness than Kaplan's. The authors' experiments are performed on uniform slopes of S = 1/40 and 1/60. One of the present authors has carried out the same experiments for different conditions, in which the slopes were S = 1/20, 1/30 and 1/50. All these experimental results of run-up height are compared with Kaplan's formulae or the theoretical equations of linear shallow water waves given by Keller, and Keller and Shuto. Furthermore, the relationship between Kaplan's formulae and Green's law is studied theoretically and the deficiency of Kaplan's method of calculation is deduced. After the discussion of the applicability of the linear theories, the authors present a new empirical formula to estimate the run-up height. Finally, the reflection coefficient of long waves from the slope is investigated experimentally and compared with Shuto's breaking condition.
DE: tsunamis-; wave-run-up
ID: gradients-; mathematical-models; reflection-
AN: 8133320

                                                                    295 of 309
TI: Mechanisms of shore platform formation on the southeastern coast of the Izu peninsula, Japan.
AU: Sunamura,-T.-(Coastal-Eng.-Lab.,-Univ.-Tokyo,-Tokyo-113,-Japan)
SO: J.-Geol., 1978 86(2), 211-222
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Shore platforms incised into Tertiary volcanic rocks on the southeastern coast of the Izu peninsula, facing the Pacific Ocean, show regional differences in their elevation: the platform on the promontories are higher than those in the coves or the areas behind islands. The level of the former varies from place to place, while that of the latter is approximately constant. Prior to the investigation of the mechanisms forming the platforms, the latest local crustal movement was examined. The study area proved to have been uplifted about 1-.-5 m due to the earthquake of 1703. The field study suggested that the platforms had already been formed at the time of this tectonic uplift. Therefore, the formative mechanism was explored under the pre-uplift conditions. This exploration was done by focussing on the nearshore wave dynamics. The result showed that the platforms at the headlands were produced by the action of breaking waves occurring in front of the bluff during stormy periods, and their original elevation was determined by the height at which breaking waves operated; while the platforms in the sheltered areas were developed by the interaction of broken waves and rock weathering, and their elevation was controlled by the level of permanent saturation.
DE: coastal-morphology; tectonics-; wave-cut-platforms; INW,-Japan,-Honshu,-Izu
ID: volcanic-rocks
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
AN: 8122120

                                                                    296 of 309
TI: Radar imaging of the ocean surface. /[Presented at: IUCRM Colloquium on 'Radio Oceanography'; Hamburg (GFR); 29 Sep 1976].
AU: Elachi,-C.-(Jet-Propul.-Lab.,-California-Inst.-Technol.,-4800-Oak-Grove-Drive,-Pasadena,-CA-91103,-USA)
CO: /[Presented at: IUCRM Colloquium on 'Radio Oceanography'  Hamburg (GFR)  29 Sep 1976].
SO: Boundary-Layer-Meteorol., 1978 13(1-4), 165-179
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
AB: Radar sensors are being used to provide two-dimensional imagery of the ocean surface. The radar image has a brightness variation which is proportional to the local backscatter cross-section of the surface at the wavelength of observation. The backscatter cross-section is, in turn, a function of the local surface topography and, in the case of a coherent radar system, of the surface dynamics. The synthetic-aperture radar imaging technique produces very high resolution images essentially independent of the distance to the surface being imaged. This technique is discussed in some detail. The emphasis is on recent observations of a large variety of ocean surface patterns. Deep ocean waves have been observed under a variety of weather conditions, including hurricanes. Breaking waves are observed because of the increase in roughness and the presence of foam. Discrete wave-like patterns, which resemble internal wave trains, have been observed in numerous locations; and eddy-shaped, linear, curvilinear and periodic slicks have also been seen. The different models for wave image formations are briefly reviewed. Specifically, the roughness modulation, tilt modulation, and orbital velocity models are discussed. Finally, it is shown that surface randomness does not destroy the coherence of the signal needed to generate the synthetic-aperture image because of the short-term coherence of the small Bragg waves.
DE: sea-surface-topography; radar-; images-
ID: backscatter-; models-
AN: 8121610

                                                                    297 of 309
TI: The wave pump: conversion of wave energy to current energy.
AU: Bruun,-P.M.; Viggosson,-G.-(Dep.-Port-and-Ocean-Eng.,-Norwegian-Inst.-Technol.,-Trondheim,-Norway)
SO: Proc.-Am.-Soc.-Civ.-Eng.,-J.-Waterway,-Port,-Coastal-and-Ocean-Div., 1977 103(WW4), 449-469
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The Wave Pump converts wave energy to current energy utilizing the momentum of waves which are close to or at the breaking stage. To improve the efficiency of the Pump so that even smaller waves become effective, waves are concentrated in a funnel. Funnel geometry therefore is an important parameter. So is the wave height over depth ratio. The effectiveness of the pump is not reduced even if the direction of wave propagation deviates approx 10-degree- from the centerline of the pump. The efficiency of the pump may be further improved by the installation of a ramp at the entrance to the discharge channel. The pump has been thoroughly tested by hydraulic model tests. The first prototype was built at the Palmas Del Mar marina on Puerto Rico as a flushing device in a low tidal range area. It has been in operation for approx. 2 yr. the pump is also useful for flushing of ice in arctic waters. It may be used as an energy producing device on a modest scale.
DE: wave-energy; pumps-
ID: wave-propagation
AN: 8114130

                                                                    298 of 309
TI: Oil slick instability and the entrainment failure of oil containment booms. [Presented at: Fluids Engineering Conference; Minneapolis, MN (USA); 5 May 1975].
AU: Leibovich,-S.-(Sibley-Sch.-Mech.-and-Aerospace-Eng.,-Cornell-Univ.,-Ithaca,-NY-14853,-USA)
CO: [Presented at: Fluids Engineering Conference  Minneapolis, MN (USA)  5 May 1975].
SO: J.-Fluid-Eng.,-Am.-Soc.-Mech.-Eng., 1976 98(1), 98-105
PY: 1976
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The onset of droplet formation from contained oil slicks is interpreted to be due to breaking of finite amplitude interfacial waves. These waves result from the motion of amplifying Kelvin-Helmholtz waves. Experimental evidence is shown to be consistent with this view. From this model, conditons for droplet shedding from the headwave alone and from the entire slick are derived. Also, an earlier result in linear stability of thin slicks is shown to be in error.
DE: oil-slicks; booms-; oil-removal; Kelvin-Helmholz-waves; hydraulic-models
ID: breaking-waves; oil-spills
AN: 8103900

                                                                    299 of 309
TI: Episodic waves - Freak threat of the seas.
AU: Brochu,-M.-(Address-not-stated)
SO: Sci.-Dimension, 1977 9(6), 8-11
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In certain areas of the world natural sea conditions sometimes combine to create gigantic walls of water, these are known as episodic waves. These waves are known to occur at several locations where the continental shelf drops off to the ocean floor. In deep water where bottom effects are negligable waves are mostly random, but as soon as they approach the shore the combined effect of counter currents, bottom effects and the wave breaking process causes a certan amount of wave grouping to take place, waves become sorted by frequency, sometimes those of different frequencies catch up with one another, adding up to form a much bigger wave. Simulation of these type of waves is described. Present research into those waves has 2 objectives, firstly the need to design coastal structures that can withstand real life situations and secondly the study of wave groups on a more fundamental level so that wave groupings at particular locations can be predicted from mathematical models.
DE: episodic-waves; continental-shelves; mathematical-models
ID: bottom-topography
AN: 8093780

                                                                    300 of 309
TI: On the shape and breaking of finite amplitude internal gravity waves in a shear flow.
AU: Thorpe,-S.A.-(Inst.-Oceanogr.-Sci.,-Wormley,-Godalming,-Surrey,-UK)
SO: J.-Fluid-Mech., 1978 85(1), 7-31
PY: 1978
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper is concerned with two important aspects of nonlinear internal gravity waves in a stably stratified inviscid plane shear flow, their shape and their breaking, particularly in conditions which are frequently encountered in geophysical applications when the vertical gradients of the horizontal current and the density are concentrated in a fairly narrow depth interval (e.g. the thermocline in the ocean). The present theoretical and experimental study of the wave shape extends earlier work on waves in the absence of shear and shows that the shape may be significantly altered by shear, the second-harmonic terms which describe the wave profile changing sign when the shear is increased sufficiently in an appropriate sense. In the second part of the paper it is shown that the slope of internal waves at which breaking occurs (the particle speeds exceeding the phase speed of the waves) may be considerably reduced by the presence of shear. Internal waves on a thermocline which encounter an increasing shear, perhaps because of wind action accelerating the upper mixing layer of the ocean, may be prone to such breaking. This work may alternatively be regarded as a study of the stability of a parallel stratified shear flow in the presence of a particular finite disturbance which corresponds to internal gravity waves propagating horizontally in the plane of the flow.
DE: internal-waves; gravity-waves; stratified-flow; shear-flow
AN: 8080900

                                                                    301 of 309
TI: [Waves and tidal currents] Marine information, data and advisory services for offshore activities; Taunton, Somerset (UK); 19 Oct 1977
AU: Crease,-J.-(Inst.-Oceaogr.-Sci.,-Wormley,-Surrey,-UK)
CO: Marine information, data and advisory services for offshore activities,  Taunton, Somerset (UK),  19 Oct 1977
NT: en.
PT: J (Journal-Article); K (Conference); O (Review-Article); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The author dealt with the application of some of the results from current research into waves and tidal currents. In describing the work of his group, he dealt with the problem of high breaking waves which cannot be modelled using linear theory. A numerical model was described which has overcome some of these difficulties by treating the non-linear phenomena as local properties confined to a single wave rather than having to extend the theory to the random sea as a whole. This approach has enabled the model to follow the profile of a breaking wave almost to the point where the plume has touched the undisturbed surface in front of the advancing wave. The model has shown that up to 26% of the momentum of a breaking wave may be in the plume and that the velocity in the tip of the wave is 75% greater than elsewhere; therefore if this wave was to strike an object it would produced a force three times greater than that produced by a non-breaking wave. He dealt with the statistical approach to wave analysis and emphasised that on the basis of existing data very little is known about how these statistics may be applied to extreme values of winds and waves. Similar doubts were expressed concerning our understanding of spectral shapes and in particular how these evolve as energy is redistributed over frequency. Spectral shapes remain largely empirical. The results were also reported of a recent comparison between recording current meters and drogue systems. These have shown that the rotor and vane system of the Aanderaa current meter may over-estimate surface currents by a factor of 3 as a result of wave activity.
AN: 8076540

                                                                    302 of 309
TI: Resistance wave-staff and pressure transducer - an accuracy check during wave measurements.
AU: Cavaleri,-L.-(Consiglio-nazionale-delle-Ricerche,-Venice,-Italy)
SO: Rapp.-P.-V.-Reun.,-Comm.-Int.-Explor.-Sci.-Mer-Mediterr.,-Monaco 1976 23(5), 75
NT: Summary only
PY: 1976
LA: English
PT: J (Journal-Article); Y (Summary)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Laboratory tests on reliability of wave staff and pressure transducer in measuring wave heights have been made by various agencies. Laboratory and field tests and a discussion on possible causes of errors and their values are treated in this note. For the wave staff the following errors have been considered: (1) Variation of the thread of the spiral. (2) Variation of the electrical resistance of the wire. These two errors are usually random and selfcompensated after a short length of instrument. (3) Increase in length due to the tensile force (a few  -SUP-o-/-SUB-oo-); this suggests calibration of the instrument under the operative tensile force. More practically, once the wave staff has been tensed and some references have been marked on it, these can then be used as reference points for calibration under a limited force. (4) Short circuit of some resistance spires due to water drops remaining on the wave staff during a wave trough (maximum error 5%). To take this into account laboratory calibration must be carried out in real conditions, i.e. first by immersion of the instrument, then calibrating it during gradual emersion. (5) The delay effect due to the adherence of water particles to the wave staff during rapid descending motion of the surface. The delay is equal to the falling time of the water which remains around the instrument (order of magnitude. 1 sec). Nevertheless the instantaneous error is large and in the case of high waves can surpass 40 cm. (6) Water spray during the relative varying horizontal motion of surface particles (order of cm) - this is proportional to the diameter of the support. (7) Breaking waves and spray - unavoidable - together with 5, 6 and 7 establishes the limit of operative conditions for the instrument. As regards the pressure transducer, consideration has been given to the consequence of water motion on the measurement itself. In wave measurements one is concerned with the variation of static pressure, while the dynamical effect of velocity can be of the same order of magnitude as the variation. A positive test was made by covering the instrument with a small soft plastic bag, air or water filled. A series of tests carried out in the water tank of the institute of Oceanographic Sciences, Wormley, England, took into account the influence of relative water velocity and its direction. The effect of dynamical pressure was shown to be reduced to a few percent of its maximum value, independently of the direction of relative motio
DE: wave-gauge; wave-recorders
AN: 8027970

                                                                    303 of 309
TI: A proposed mechanism for storm beach sedimentation.
AU: Orford,-J.D.-(Dep.-Geogr.,-Univ.-Keele,-Keele-Park,-Staffordshire-ST5-5BG,-UK)
SO: Earth-Surf.-Processes 1977 2(4), 381-400
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: One of the major problems of shingle beach dynamics is the method by which coarse gravel is transferred from beach face to storm beach, the latter often lying several metres above high spring tidal levels. The mechanism which is usually proposed, cites the action of plunging breakers as being central to this problem of sediment transfer. However, the nature of net residual fluid force of plunging breakers is deemed unsatisfactory for any substantial upbeach (onshore) sediment transport during storm conditions on gravel beaches. A mechanism is proposed by which high still water levels due to high astronomical tides, onshore storm force winds and allied wave surge, promote shoaling characteristics and beach profile changes which are conducive to spilling breaker development at tidal extremities. It is the net onshore fluid force vector of the spilling breaker overtopping the beach crest which may be the cause of extreme sedimentation events on the storm beach. An example of such sediment transfer is given for a known storm beach sedimentation event at Llanrhystyd gravel beach, West Wales, during February 1974. Process variables were monitored on several days allowing the use of an inshore breaker steepness criterion, to indicate positions in the tidal regime where plunging breakers give way to spilling forms. This example serves to suggest that more attention should be given to the nature and characteristics of shoaling waves, especially in respect of breaker type, when examining problems of shingle beach dynamics and sedimentation.
DE: beaches-; sedimentation-; storms-; gravel-; geomorphology-; ANE,-British-Isles,-Wales,-Dyfed
ID: breaking-waves
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
AN: 8048360

                                                                    304 of 309
TI: Edge waves and beach cusps.
AU: Guza,-R.T.; Inman,-D.L.-(Scripps-Inst.-Oceanogr.,-Univ.-California,-La-Jolla,-CA-92037,-USA)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res., 1975 80(21), 2997-3012
PY: 1975
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Genetically, beach cusps are of at least 2 types: those linked with incident waves which are surging and mostly reflected (reflective systems) and those generated on beaches where wave breaking and nearshore circulation cells are important (dissipative systems). The spacings of some cusps formed under reflective wave conditions both in the laboratory and in certain selected natural situations are shown to be consistent with models hypothesizing formation by either (1) subharmonic edge waves (period twice that of the incident waves) of zero mode number or (2) synchronous (period equal to that of incident waves) edge waves of low mode. Experiments show that visible subharmonic edge wave generations occurs on nonerodable plane laboratory beaches only when the incident waves are strongly reflected at the beach, and this observation is quantified. Edge wave resonance theory and experiments suggest that synchronous potential edge wave generation can also occur on reflective beaches and is a higher-order, weaker resonance than the subharmonic type. In dissipative systems, modes of longshore periodic motion other than potential edge waves may be important in controlling the longshore scale of circulation cells and beach morphologies. On reflective plane laboratory beaches, initially large subharmonic edge waves reararrange sand tracers into shapes which resemble natural beach cusps, but the edge wave amplitudes decrease a-degree-DCs the cusps grow. Cusp growth is thus limited by negative feedback from the cusps to the edge wave excitation process. Small edge waves can form longshore periodic morphologies by providing destabilizing perturbations on a berm properly located in the swash zone. In this case the retreating incident wave surge is channelized into breeches in the berm caused by the edge waves, and there is an initially positive feedback from the topography to longshore periodic perturbations.
DE: beach-cusps; water-waves; geomorphology-; sedimentation-; water-circulation; coastal-zone
ID: sediment-transport; dunes-; berms-; water-currents; onshore-currents
AN: 8036030

                                                                    305 of 309
TI: Wind stress and roughness length over breaking waves.
AU: Melville,-W.K.-(Inst.-Geophys.-Planet.-Phys.,-Univ.-California,-San-Diego,-La-Jolla,-CA-92093,-USA)
SO: J.-Phys.-Oceanogr., 1977 7(5), 702-710
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine); B (Brackish); F (Freshwater)
AB: The effects of surface wave breaking on the adjacent atmospheric boundary layer are examined. It is argued that the transition from aerodynamically smooth to rough flow in a neutral atmosphere corresponds to the onset of extensive small-scale wave breaking. The association of wave breaking with the generation of turbulence in the boundary layer above leads to the result that the friction velocity is approximately equal to the phase velocity of the breaking waves. It is argued that this approximate relationship holds even when the small-scale breaking waves are riding on a swell. The existence of a minimum phase velocity for surface waves then requires that there be a minimum friction velocity, in the neighborhood of 23 cm s-SUP--1-, below which rough flow cannot occur. A result of Phillips and Banner (1974) which describes the limiting amplitude of small gravity waves under the action of wind drift and swell is used to derive a relationship between the roughness length and friction velocity which is a generalization of Charnock's (1955) equation. The published field measurements of a number of workers are shown to support these results.
DE: breaking-waves; boundary-layers; turbulence-; air-water-interface; wind-stress; friction-
ID: swells-
AN: 8048690

                                                                    306 of 309
TI: Observations of wave height and wave celerity in the surf zone.
AU: Suhayda,-J.N.; Pettigrew,-N.R.-(Coast.-Stud.-Inst.,-Louisiana-State-Univ.,-Baton-Rouge,-LA-70803,-USA)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res. 1977 82(9), 1419-1424
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Observations of wave crest elevation, wave trough elevation, and wave celerity have been made in the surf zone on a natural beach. A series of 22 wave poles having vertical gradations of 7 cm (near shore) and 11 cm (off shore) were placed across the surf zone from outside the break point to the swash zone. Movements of 10 individual waves all having a break point within one wave pole spacing of each other have been photographed, and the data on wave height changes and wave speed changes have been analyzed. Wave celerity within the surf zone, given as a ratio M to solitary wave celerity, shows a systematic increase of wave speeds near the break point to a peak of M approximately 1-.-2, thence a decrease farther shoreward to M approximately 0-.-8, and finally a second increase where M>1. Wave height decay after breaking follows the theory of turbulent dissipation recently presented by Sawaragi and Iwata (1974). The wave height to water depth ratio within the surf zone is a function of distance from the break point and ranges from 2-.-0 to 0-.-6. The results indicate that the use of linear and nonlinear nonviscous wave theories to quantify surf zone wave characteristics is misleading insofar as quantitative prediction is concerned.
DE: surf-zone; wave-height; wave-velocity; breaking-waves
ID: water-depth
AN: 8041930

                                                                    307 of 309
TI: The development from two-dimensional to three-dimensional turbulence generated by breaking waves
AU: Lemmin,-U.; Scott,-J.T.; Czapski,-U.H.-(Dep.-Atmos.-Sci.,-State-Univ.-New-York-Albany,-Albany,-NY-12222,-USA)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res., 1974 79(24), 3442-3448
PY: 1974
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: An investigation is made of transition of the turbulence spectrum within the mixed layer of Lake Ontario following the passage of several well-defined meteorological disturbances. Observations were taken during the summer of 1972 with a ducted propeller current meter. Spectral analysis of the records revealed a transformation from a spectral law corresponding to two-dimensional turbulence into a wave number dependence corresponding to Kolmogorov's -5/3 law indicating three-dimensional structure. The appearance of the recordings, the energy peaks and energy levels, the mean velocities, and the rms fluctuations show concomitant changes indicating that wave-generated turbulence may be transmitted downward in the epilimnion of lakes.
DE: turbulence-; current-measurements; water-waves; epilimnion-; energy-; America,-Ontario-L.
AN: 8034610

                                                                    308 of 309
TI: Longshore circulation around a conical island
AU: Mei,-C.C.; Angelides,-D.-(Dep.-Civ.-Eng.,-Massachusetts-Inst.-Technol.,-Cambridge,-MA-02139,-USA)
SO: Coastal-Eng. 1977 1(1), 31-42
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This paper is concerned with the averaged circulation caused by waves breaking along the beach of a constant slope around a circular island in a sea of constant depth. It is reasoned that the refraction pattern determines the extent of longshore circulation. In particular, for an island so large that there is a lee shore which is not affected by the refracting waves, two current cells are found on two sides of the island with respect to the wave direction, without significant penetration in the lee shore region. This enhances the creation of two sand spits which may grow to form a looped bar, or two tombolos to connect with the neighboring mainland. For an island so small that the extent of the lee shore vanishes, the two current cells collide at the center of the island lee and form a single rip current. This is used to explain the presence of a single tombolo.
DE: breaking-waves; water-circulation; islands-; onshore-circulation
AN: 8050890

                                                                    309 of 309
TI: The theory of wave propagation in water of gradually varying depth and the prediction of breaker type and height
AU: Gaughan,-M.K.; Komar,-P.D.-(Sch.-Oceanogr.,-Oregon-State-Univ.,-Corvallis,-OR-97330,-USA)
SO: J.-Geophys.-Res., 1977 80(21), 2991-2996
PY: 1977
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: As ocean waves shoal and approach the shoreline, they peak and finally break, usually as either plunging or silling breaker types. This study applies the theory of wave propagation in water of gradually varying depth, as developed by Biesel (1952), to determine the dependence of breaker type on the beach slope tangent s and on the deep water wave steepness Hs01/Ls01, the ratio of the deep water wave height Hs01 to the deep water wave length Ls01. By representing the fluid motion at the surface in Lagrangian coordinates, a graph is developed for the breaker type on the basis of 21 combinations of s and Hs01/Ls01. A comparison with laboratory wave tank data on breaker types shows good agreement with this graph based entirely on theory. The steepening of the shoaling wave profile on the shoreward wave face leads to the occurrence of a vertical surface. The first apearance of such a vertical surface provides a natural breaking criterion compatible with experimental usage. On the basis of this breaking criterion the dimensionless ratios H-SUB-b-/Hs01 and H-SUB-b-/h-SUB-b-, where H-SUB-b- is the breaker height and h-SUB-b- the depth at breaking, are theoretically evaluated. The well-known dependene of H-SUB-b-/Hs01 on Hs01/Ls01 is also correctly demonstrated by the theoretical approach.
ID: beaches-; water-waves; propagation-; water-depth; wave-height; wave-length; shallow-water; deep-water; breaking-waves; predictions-
AN: 8034880

                                                                      1 of 380
TI: Effects of plunging breakers on the gas contents in the ocean
AU: Chanson,-H.; Cummings,-P.D.
AF: Dep. Civil Eng., Univ. Queensland, Brisbane, Australia
SO: MAR.-TECHNOL.-SOC.-J. 1994 vol. 28, no. 3, pp. 22-32
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The aeration of the ocean contributes to the transfer of oxygen, nitrogen and carbon dioxide between the ocean and the atmosphere. Breaking waves are known to enhance the aeration process by increasing the turbulent mixing and entraining air bubbles. One type of breaking waves, the plunging breaker, can entrain large quantities of air bubbles to depths as large as 10 to 20 meters. The resulting increase of the air-water interface area and the increase of the gas saturation concentration with the depth induce a massive augmentation of air-water gas transfer. The aeration characteristics of plunging breakers in the deep sea are presented using a similarity with plunging jets. A method is developed to predict the sizes of the entrained bubbles, the resulting interface area, the maximum penetration depth and the air-water gas transfer. The results are consistent with experimental observations and emphasize the role of plunging breakers in the aeration process. The authors also develop a prediction model of the gas transfer rate due to plunging breaking waves in deep sea during a storm event.
DE: oxygenation-; dissolved-oxygen; breakers-; breaking-waves; turbulent-entrainment; bubbles-; mathematical-models; storms-; deep-water
CL: Chemistry-and-Geochemistry:-Composition-of-water-2184
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9504471
AN: 3687504
UD: 9503

                                                                      2 of 380
TI: The influence of seabed slope on wave impact pressures
AU: Mueller,-G.; Whittaker,-T.J.T.
AF: Civ. Eng. Dep., Queen's Univ. Belfast, Stranmillis Rd., Belfast BT7 1NN, UK
SO: UNDERWAT.-TECHNOL. 1994 vol. 20, no. 3, pp. 14-22
IS: ISSN 0141-0814
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Coastal structures are subjected to high wave impact loads. Previous model tests and field measurements indicated that these loadings are strongly influenced by the seabed slope. Within the Wave Energy Group at Queen's University, model tests were conducted to assess the influence of the seabed slope on wave impact pressures on a model shoreline wave power station. For these tests, regular waves and breaking waves created by energy focussing were used. It was found that with regular waves the wave impact pressures decrease rapidly in magnitude with decreasing seabed slope but that, for focussed waves, this decrease is considerably smaller.
DE: coastal-structures; structural-engineering; wave-forces; bottom-topography-effects; shore-protection
CL: Offshore-and-Coastal-Structures:-Coast-defenses-and-harbor-works-2327
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9506133
AN: 3685426
UD: 9503

                                                                      3 of 380
TI: Water waves in a suspended container
AU: Cooker,-M.J.
AF: Sch. Math., Univ. E. Anglia, Norwich NR4 7TJ, UK
SO: WAVE-MOTION 1994 vol. 20, no. 4, pp. 385-395
IS: ISSN 0165-2125
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Analysis and experiments are carried out on a horizontal rectangular wave tank which swings at the lower end of a pendulum. The walls of the tank generate waves which affect the motion of the pendulum. For small displacements of the tank, linearised shallow water equations are used to model the motion, and there exist time-periodic solutions for the system whose periods are governed by a transcendental relation. Numerical and analytic solutions of this relation show that the fundamental period is greater than both the period of the empty tank (moving like a simple pendulum) and the fundamental period of the standing wave which occurs when the tank is removed from its supports and held fixed. For a rectangular tank the theory compares well with some experimental measurements. Qualitative observations are also made of the effect of breaking waves on the tank motion: for a tank which has a mass small compared with its load the energy dissipated by breaking waves can rapidly reduce the amplitude of swing of the tank. Potential flow theory is used with linearised free-surface boundary conditions to find time periodic motions for a tank with a hyperbolic cross section.
DE: wave-tanks; surface-water-waves; water-motion; containers-
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9504277
AN: 3684500
UD: 9503

                                                                      4 of 380
TI: Laboratory and field experiments on the correlation of fractional area whitecap coverage with air/sea gas transport
AU: Asher,-W.E.; Farley,-P.J.; Wanninkhof,-R.; Monahan,-E.C.; Bates,-T.S.
CA: Battelle Pacific Northwest Labs., Richland, WA (USA)
SO: 1991 21 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: DE91018822/GAR.
RN: PNL-SA-19736. CONF-9107104-14 (CONF910710414)
PY: 1991
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: Laboratory results have demonstrated that bubble plumes are a very efficient air/water gas transport mechanism. Because deep-water breaking waves generate bubble plumes, it may be possible to correlate air/sea gas transport velocities with whitecap coverage. This correlation may then allow transport velocities to be predicted from measurements of apparent microwave brightness temperature through the increase in sea surface microwave emissivity associated with breaking waves. In order to develop this remote-sensing based method for predicting air/sea gas fluxes, the Battelle/Marine Sciences Laboratory whitecap simulation tank was used to measure transport velocities for oxygen, helium, sulfur hexafluoride, and dimethyl sulfide. This allowed the gas exchange process to be studies as a function of fractional area bubble plume coverage, molecular diffusivity (or Schmidt number) and water temperature. Using these results, an empirical model has been developed that permits prediction of the transport velocity in the Whitecap Simulation Tank from bubble plume coverage and Schmidt number. The implications of these results to the analysis of in situ dual-tracer air/sea gas transport data is also discussed. [Contract AC06-76RL01830. International conference on precipitation scavenging and atmosphere surface exchange process (5th), Richland, WA (United States), 15-19 Jul 1991. Sponsored by Department of Energy, Washington, DC.] (DBO)
DE: bubbles-; plumes-; whitecaps-; wave-breaking; mathematical-models; gas-exchange; air-water-exchanges
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9500988
AN: 3680017
UD: 9503

                                                                      5 of 380
TI: User's manual and examples for GNWave
AU: Demirbilek,-Z.; Webster,-W.C.
CA: Army Coastal Engineering Research Cent., Vicksburg, MS (USA)
SO: 1992 59 pp
NT: NTIS Order No.: AD-A257 024/0/GAR.
RN: CERC-92-13 (CERC9213)
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
AB: This report describes the operation and use of a new numerical model, GNWave. This model was designed to simulate the evolution of a train of two-dimensional waves in waters of arbitrary bottom topography, varying from shallow water to waters of moderate depth. The program uses the Green-Naghdi theory of fluid sheets as its model, and integrates a set of coupled, nonlinear partial differential equations in time to perform the simulation of surface gravity waves. Report 1 in this series, entitled 'Application of the Green-Naghdi theory of fluid sheets to shallow water wave problems', contains a detailed description of the mathematical basis of GNWave model. The model GNWave has been shown to reproduce with engineering accuracy the evolution of a wave of permanent form, from small amplitudes up to almost breaking conditions. The numerical model is portable with little or no changes to a wide variety of platforms, and has successfully been tested on high-end PC's and VAX and CRAY mainframe systems. The governing equations were programmed using Fortran as the language. The program consists of a main program and a number of modules to perform the calculations. A functional flow chart of individual routines involves in the computation is included herein. The main routine directs the sequence of the calculation, including the reading of the input and integration of the equations, and performs some post-processing. (DBO)
DE: mathematical-models; wind-waves; amphibious-vessels; military-operations; coastal-oceanography
ID: GNWave-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9501032
AN: 3679887
UD: 9503

                                                                      6 of 380
TI: Laboratory studies of wave-current interaction: Kinematics of the strong interaction
AU: Lai,-R.J.; Long,-S.R.; Huang,-N.E.
AF: David Taylor Res. Cent., Bethesda, MD, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS 1989 vol. 94, no. 11, pp. 16201-16226
IS: ISSN 0148-0227
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Controlled laboratory experiments have been conducted to study the kinematics of wave-current interactions. The results confirm the conservation of waves under the steady state condition. The data also show that the kinematic effect of the current on waves can be treated as a simple Doppler shift. After the Doppler correction, the kinematics of the waves (either breaking or nonbreaking) follows the linear theory very well. The experiments also confirm the blockage of the waves by currents when the ratio u super(-)/C sub(0) approaches -1/4. (DBO)
DE: wave-current-interaction; kinematics-; Doppler-effect; experimental-research
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9502914
AN: 3679631
UD: 9503

                                                                      7 of 380
TI: The modulation of the radar cross section of the ocean surface by an azimuthally traveling long gravity wave
AU: West,-J.C.; Moore,-R.K.; Holtzman,-J.C.; Gogineni,-S.P.
AF: Radar Systems and Remote Sensing Lab., Univ. Kansas Cent. Res., Lawrence, KS 66044, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS 1989 vol. 94, no. 11, pp. 16177-16187
IS: ISSN 0148-0227
PY: 1989
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A new technique is used to calculate the modulation of the radar cross section of the ocean surface by a long gravity wave having a single narrow-band spectral peak. Spectral analysis of the measured wave height time series is used to determine the position on the dominant wave illuminated during each radar sample. When we average the samples of the signal power received from the same phase position (but during different cycles) on the long wave, the phase-interference (Rayleigh) fading is greatly reduced. The result is a measurement of the average radar cross section of the ocean surface as a function of the position on the long wave. The technique was applied to experimental runs where the radar beam was parallel to the crest of the dominant wave (cross-wave look direction). Significant modulation was observed at both C and X bands, although there was no tilt modulation. A scenario where hydrodynamic and aerodynamic effects give rise to the modulation is discussed. "Sea spikes" occurred primarily near the front face of the long wave, with some also appearing immediately after the crest has passed, supporting the theory that they are often associated with the breaking of ripple waves riding near the top of the long wave. (DBO)
DE: analytical-techniques; radar-; gravity-waves; hydrodynamics-; wave-crests
ID: ocean-surface-cross-section
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2162
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9502910
AN: 3679625
UD: 9503

                                                                      8 of 380
TI: Estimation of waves and winds over seas in the coastal zone
AU: Takeda,-A.; Tokuda,-M.; Iwasaki,-S.; Watabe,-I.; Morohoshi,-T.
CA: National Research Cent. for Disaster Prevention, Hiratsuka (Japan). Hiratsuka Branch of Oceanographic Stud.
SO: 1988 12 pp
NT: NTIS Order No: N92-22892/3/GAR.
PY: 1988
LA: Japanese
LS: English
PT: R (Report)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: A method with which quantitative information on ocean waves and sea surface winds are obtained from an imagery of visible bands of MESSR (Multispectral Electronic Self-Scanning Radiometer) is discussed. Discrimination of the pattern of individual waves from a MESSR imagery is difficult because of low resolution of 50 m, while it is almost impossible from an image of TM (Thematic Mapper) or SPOT. There is, however, another approach to obtain the information from a MESSR image. A population density of white caps generated by wave breaking increases with increasing wind speeds. A high density of the white caps over the sea surface will be reflected on the MESSR imagery as a bright spot which can be detected. In fact, a correlation is found between densities of high brightness over a sea area and wind speeds over it. It can be concluded that wind speeds can be estimated from MESSR images with considerations on the fetch and duration. Feasibilities of wind estimation from MSR (Microwave Scanning Radiometer), which was our first subject, remain unsolved. (DBO)
DE: sea-surface; surface-water-waves; coastal-zone; wind-measurement; radiometers-
CL: Descriptive-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Methods-and-instruments-2142
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: NO9500737
AN: 3675700
UD: 9503

                                                                      9 of 380
TI: Breaking wave impact on a slender horizontal cylinder
AU: Prasad,-S.; Chan,-Eng-Soon; Isaacson,-M.
AF: Univ. British Columbia, Vancouver, BC, Canada
CO: 4. Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., Osaka (Japan), 10-15 Apr 1994
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FOURTH-1994-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE.-VOLUME-3,-1994. Chung,-J.S.;Maeda,-H.;Naito,-S.;Ikeda,-Y.-eds. GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS-ISOPE 1994 pp. 225-232
IS: ISBN 1-880653-13-3
RN: 4 PART SET ISBN 1-880653-10-9 (PARTSETISBN1880653109)
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The present paper describes the results of an experimental study of impact forces due to plunging wave action on a horizontal circular cylinder located near the still water level. The vertical and horizontal components of the impact force on the cylinder due to a single plunging wave have been measured for 3 elevations of the cylinder, and 6 locations of wave breaking relative to the horizontal location of the cylinder. A video record of the impact process has been used to estimate the kinematics of the wave and plunging jet prior to impact. The force measurements have been corrected for the dynamic response of the cylinder, and analyzed to obtain slamming coefficients and rise times. It is observed that the cylinder elevation and its horizontal location have a significant effect on the peak impact force. The magnitude of the impact force due to a breaking wave is 4 to 20 times greater than that due to a regular non-breaking wave of similar height and period. In addition to the fluid velocity, the curvature of the water surface has a noticeable effect on the peak impact force. (DBO)
DE: breaking-waves; hydrodynamics-; cylinders-; offshore-structures; wave-forces
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9501889
AN: 3675568
UD: 9503

                                                                     10 of 380
TI: A study on periodic wave breaking by absorbed numerical wave channel
AU: Wang,-Yongxue
AF: Dalian Univ. Technol., Dalian, People's Rep. China
CO: 4. Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., Osaka (Japan), 10-15 Apr 1994
SO: THE-PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-FOURTH-1994-INTERNATIONAL-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERING-CONFERENCE.-VOLUME-3,-1994. Chung,-J.S.;Maeda,-H.;Naito,-S.;Ikeda,-Y.-eds. GOLDEN,-CO-USA INTERNATIONAL-SOCIETY-OF-OFFSHORE-AND-POLAR-ENGINEERS-ISOPE 1994 pp. 32-36
IS: ISBN 1-880653-13-3
RN: 4 PART SET ISBN 1-880653-10-9 (PARTSETISBN1880653109)
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: B (Book); K (Conference)
AB: Periodic wave breaking problem has been investigated in the numerical wave channel developed based on the volume of fluid method(VOF). The absorbing wave-maker boundary condition is presented to cancel the waves reflected from slopes or structures. Wave heights along a sloping beach and distributions of breaking wave pressure on a wall are compared with laboratory data. The breaking process of consecutive periodic waves are studied numerically. (DBO)
DE: wave-breaking; breaking-waves; periodicity-; energy-dissipation; absorption-physics
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9501863
AN: 3675541
UD: 9503

                                                                     11 of 380
TI: An experimental study on beach drift using tracing sand on the beach near Xizhuang Penglai County, Shandong Province
AU: Wang,-Wenhai
AF: 1st Inst. Oceanogr., SOA, Qingdao 266003, People's Rep. China
SO: J.-OCEANOGR.-HUANGHAI-BOHAI-SEAS-HUANGBOHAI-HAIYANG 1994 vol. 12, no. 1, pp. 19-27
IS: ISSN 1000-7199
PY: 1994
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: In order to investigate the causes for coastal erosion near Xizhuang Village, Penglai County, Shandong Province and to reveal the law of sediment movement on beaches, a sediment-tracing experiment was conducted using fluorescent tracing sand and dyed gravels along the coastal section under erosion. The main results of this experimental research are given. Beach drift is mainly controlled by waves, the velocity and direction of sediment movement involved in beach drift are determined by the size and direction of the breaking waves. Beach drift shows characteristics of long-shore mass movement. Along straight coasts, the sediment of one sand beach can be transported across a clayey abrasional platform onto another sand beach nearby.
DE: tracers-; experimental-research; coastal-erosion; longshore-sediment-transport; wave-effects; INW,-China,-People'-s-Rep.,-Shandong-Prov.,-Penglai-Cty.
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Sediments-and-sedimentation-2264
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
IC: CH9400993
AN: 3670302
UD: 9503

                                                                     12 of 380
TI: Excitation of bioluminescence by laminar fluid shear associated with simple Couette flow
AU: Latz,-M.I.; Case,-J.F.; Gran,-R.L.
AF: Mar. Biol. Res. Div. 0202, Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., UCSD, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
SO: LIMNOL.-OCEANOGR. 1994 vol. 39, no. 6, pp. 1424-1439
IS: ISSN 1243-1501
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The effect of fluid motion on the excitation of bioluminescence was examined for cultured dinoflagellates and plankton samples subjected to steady state laminar shear associated with simple Couette flow established in the gap between concentric cylinders with only the outer cylinder rotating. The excitation threshold for the thecate dinoflagellate, Gonyaulax polyedra, occurred at a shear stress of 1 dyn cm super(-2). At higher shear stresses, light output per cell was proportional to approximately the second power of shear stress. At each maintained shear stress, bioluminescence decreased exponentially at a rate proportional to the magnitude of shear stress. The nonthecate dinoflagellates, Pyrocystis fusiformis and Pyrocystis noctiluca, were more sensitive to stimulation and exhibited a rate of depletion an order of magnitude higher than for G. polyedra. Plankton samples from the Sargasso Sea and eastern Pacific had similar excitation thresholds but differed in the slope of the intensity vs. shear response, most likely due to different luminescent populations. The excitation threshold obtained from this study is several orders of magnitude greater than oceanic shear stress values in the mixed layer, suggesting that ambient fluid motion, with the exception of surface-breaking waves, does not stimulate bioluminescence.
DE: bioluminescence-; shear-stress; Gonyaulax-polyedra; Pyrocystis-fusiformis; Pyrocystis-noctiluca; luminous-organisms; Couette-flow; Pyrocystis-; dinoflagellates-
ID: excitation-threshold
CL: Autecology:-Environmental-effects-1422; Autecology:-Behavior-1423; Botany:-Physiology,-biochemistry,-biophysics-1226; Aquatic-Communities:-Plankton-1461
JA: ASFA-1:-Biological-Sciences-and-Living-Resources (Q1)
IC: CS9419133
AN: 3670145
UD: 9503

                                                                     13 of 380
TI: Field observations of the fluid-granular boundary layer under near-breaking waves
AU: Conley,-D.C.; Inman,-D.L.
AF: Cent. Coast. Stud., Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
SO: J.-GEOPHYS.-RES.-C-OCEANS 1992 vol. 97, no. 6, pp. 9631-9643
IS: ISSN 0148-0227
PY: 1992
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Numerous synchronized time series from video cameras, pressure sensors, current meters, and hot film anemometers on natural beaches show that boundary layer development under the crest of near-breaking waves can be idealized as a process composed of three distinct regimes here referred to as streaking, roiling, and pluming. The roiling and pluming regimes fail to develop under the trough. As a consequence, there is a pronounced asymmetry in instantaneous sand transport and boundary layer phenomena between the wave crest and trough. However, laboratory waves with field scale periods and wave heights over thin sand beds do not exhibit this crest-trough boundary layer asymmetry, indicating that a critical element of similitude is absent in laboratory experiments. We suggest that wave induced boundary ventilation is responsible.
DE: nearshore-dynamics; breaking-waves; wave-crests; wave-measurement; current-measurement; water-wave-motion; wave-height; numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Nearshore-dynamics-2170
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9501825
AN: 3665715
UD: 9503

                                                                     14 of 380
TI: Energy dissipation by breaking waves
AU: Melville,-W.K.
AF: Scripps Inst. Oceanogr., Univ. California, La Jolla, CA 92093-0213, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1994 vol. 24, no. 10, pp. 2041-2049
IS: ISSN 0022-3670
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Recent field measurements by Agrawal et al. have provided evidence of a shallow surface mixed layer in which the rate of dissipation due to turbulence is one to two orders of magnitude greater than that in a comparable turbulent boundary layer over a rigid wall. It is shown that predictions by Phillips of the energy lost by breaking surface waves in an equilibrium regime and laboratory measurements by Rapp and Melville of the mixing and turbulence due to breaking together lead to estimates of the enhanced dissipation rate and the thickness of the surface layer consistent with the field measurements. Wave-age-dependent scaling of the dissipation layer is proposed. Laboratory measurements of dissipation rates in both unsteady and quasi-steady breaking waves are examined. It is shown that an appropriately defined dimensionless rate of dissipation in unsteady breaking waves is not constant, but increases with a measure of the wave slope. Differences between dissipation rates in quasi-steady and unsteady breakers are discussed. It is found that measurements of the dissipation rate in unsteady breakers are consistent with independent estimates of the turbulent dissipation. The application of these results to models of dissipation due to breaking and air-sea fluxes is discussed.
DE: wave-breaking; breaking-waves; energy-dissipation; surface-mixed-layer; turbulence-; waves-; hydrodynamics-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9422555
AN: 3662711
UD: 9503

                                                                     15 of 380
TI: A fractal approach to breaking waves
AU: Longuet-Higgins,-M.S.
AF: Inst. Nonlinear Sci., Univ. California, La Jolla, CA 92093-0402, USA
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1994 vol. 24, no. 8, pp. 1834-1838
IS: ISSN 0022-3670
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Fractal models of breaking waves in a random surface should preferably describe dynamical as well as geometrical properties. This becomes feasible if there is a wide separation between the length scales of component waves. Using this idea, a simple model of breaking waves is constructed, which shows that whereas the downward acceleration of particles at a wave crest is limited to g, the upward accelerations in a wave trough are unbounded. Owing to tangential stretching or contraction, certain phases of a progressive or standing wave can be identified as being stable or unstable. The most striking instabilities are expected on the forward slopes of progressive waves, and in the troughs of steep waves meeting a vertical wall.
DE: breaking-waves; modelling-; wave-dynamics; mathematical-analysis; waves-; standing-waves; water-depth
ID: fractals-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9422554
AN: 3662710
UD: 9503

                                                                     16 of 380
TI: Observations of ice-ocean eddy streets in the Sea of Okhotsk off the Hokkaido Coast using radar images
AU: Wakatsuchi,-M.; Ohshima,-K.I.
AF: Inst. Low Temp. Sci., Hokkaido Univ., Sapporo 060, Japan
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1990 vol. 20, no. 4, pp. 585-594
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: This study examines the features of fairly regular ocean-wave motion in which some eddy streets or backward breaking waves are successfully visualized using sea ice floes as a tracer. These examinations are made using the time sequence of radar imagery data collected during the past 20 years, 1969-88; the correspondence of the radar images with the actual pattern is partially confirmed through aircraft observations. The ice-ocean eddy street or backward breaking wave pattern runs parallel to the coastline at a distance of about 20 km from the Hokkaido coast; the eddy street also corresponds to a boundary between the Soya Warm Current and colder, less saline offshore water. The wave motion is characterized by wavelengths of 40-55 km, phase velocities of 14-20 km/day and periods of 2.3-3.5 days. The regular ice-ocean wave motion pattern was observed when pack ice had a small ice concentration composed of uniform sized ice floes and weak winds. The sea ice floes serve as a highly effective flow indicator in the radar observations of the ice-ocean wave motion.
DE: INW,-Okhotsk-Sea; INW,-Japan,-Hokkaido; oceanic-eddies; sea-ice; radar-imagery; wave-motion; ice-cover; pack-ice
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-General-2161
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
IC: CS9501372
AN: 3662663
UD: 9503

                                                                     17 of 380
TI: A numerical study of barotropic instability associated with the Soya Warm Current in the Sea of Okhotsk
AU: Ohshima,-K.I.; Wakatsuchi,-M.
AF: Inst. Low Temp. Sci., Hokkaido Univ., Sapporo 060, Japan
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1990 vol. 20, no. 4, pp. 570-584
PY: 1990
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Numerical model experiments have been carried out in an attempt to elucidate the generation mechanism of the eddy or wave street in the Soya Warm Current. We use a barotropic model incorporating bottom topography. Under realistic conditions, the model produces waves whose properties are within the range of the observed ones. The generation mechanism of the waves proposed in this experiment is as follows. When the current is driven by the mean water level difference between the Japan Sea and the Sea of Okhotsk, the flow separates from the cape in the Soya Strait. In the region of the flow separation, strong positive vorticity is produced by the frictional torques occurring as the water flows through the strait and by vortex stretching as the water is pushed out to deeper depths. This strong vorticity, or horizontal shear, induces barotropic instability, in which the waves are generated. In brief, the system of the Soya Warm Current accompanied by an eddy street is interpreted as a good geophysical example of a two-dimensional jet in a rotating system. In this experiment, intensity of the mean current and bottom friction is crucial for the wave generation. When we treat sea-ice floes, which occur in this region, as a passive tracer for the ocean velocity in the model, we successfully simulate the street of backward wave breaking or cyclonic eddies observed in the ice floe distributions. We also show that a tracer pattern reflects more the instantaneous potential vorticity field rather than the instantaneous velocity field.
DE: INW,-Okhotsk-Sea; INW,-Soya-Current; barotropic-instability; modelling-; numerical-analysis; ocean-currents; current-meandering; oceanic-eddies
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Ocean-circulation-and-currents-2164
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Pacific-Northwest (INW)
IC: CS9501371
AN: 3662662
UD: 9503

                                                                     18 of 380
TI: Observations of breaking surface wave statistics
AU: Ding,-Li; Farmer,-D.M.*
AF: Inst. Ocean Sci., P.O. Box 6000, 9860 W. Saanich Rd., Sidney, BC V8L 4B2, Canada
SO: J.-PHYS.-OCEANOGR. 1994 vol. 24, no. 6, pp. 1368-1387
IS: ISSN 0022-3670
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Breaking surface waves were observed during the Surface Wave Processes Program with a novel acoustical instrument that makes use of underwater ambient sound to track individual breaking events. The spatial and temporal statistics of breaking waves such as duration, velocity, spacing, and breaking probability were determined under various wind and wave conditions. Statistical models are developed to assess and where appropriate, correct for any bias resulting from limitations of the measurement approach. Empirical relations of these statistics with wind speed are obtained. Comparison of the observed distributions with simultaneously measured directional wave spectra suggests that wave breaking occurs at multiple scales and that the mean scale of breaking is substantially smaller than the scale associated with the dominant wind wave component. Preliminary analysis indicates that the dependence of breaking probability on the fourth moment of the wave spectrum is consistent with a linear statistical model.
DE: surface-water-waves; breaking-waves; ambient-noise; noise-sound; wave-statistics; wind-speed
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9501391
AN: 3662633
UD: 9503

                                                                     19 of 380
TI: Fractal properties of whitecaps
AU: Kerman,-B.R.; Szeto,-K.
AF: Atmos. Environ. Serv., Canada Cent. Inland Waters, Burlington, ON L7R 4A6, Canada
SO: ATMOSPHERE-OCEAN 1994 vol. 32, no. 3, pp. 531-551
IS: ISSN 0707-5900
NT: Incl. 35 ref.
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English; French
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: F (Freshwater)
AB: Images of a field of breaking waves over the ocean obtained using a line-scanner on an aircraft are analyzed for a possible fractal geometry. The cumulative probability function of the intensity is shown to be self-similar for sufficiently large intensities occupying about 10% of an image area. This structure is invariant to successive averaging over successively larger boxes. A box-counting technique was applied to images of one representative flight. The estimated fractal dimension decreases from about 2.25 for a 10% areal coverage to about 1.7 for 0.1% coverage. It is concluded that the spatial distribution of the scattered light from foam and whitecaps is not monofractal, but is instead multifractal.
DE: breaking-waves; whitecaps-; foams-; light-reflection; physical-oceanography; air-sea-interaction; meteorology-
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CA9400892
AN: 3661854
UD: 9503

                                                                     20 of 380
TI: Flume experiments on the erosion of till shores by waves
AU: Skafel,-M.G.; Bishop,-C.T.
AF: Natl. Water Res. Inst., Environ. Canada, Burlington, ON L7R 4A6, Canada
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1994 vol. 23, no. 3-4, pp. 329-348
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Hydraulic tests of the erosion by waves of a laboratory flume profile made from intact samples of till, a preconsolidated cohesive material, are described. Over 1000 h of testing were successfully completed using random breaking waves, varying conditions of sand cover, and varying mean water levels. Vertical erosion of the cohesive profile was measured with an optical bedplotter device. The sand layer covering cohesive shores can vary spatially and temporally, so erosion rates have been investigated under four different conditions of sand supply and the results are summarized here. In addition, two sets of tests were replicated in order to demonstrate their repeatability. Erosion rates compare favourably with results from unidirectional flow tests with a similar till material. During the tests, the unconfined compressive strength of the till surface was measured in a simple manner at selected locations.
DE: flumes-; erosion-; wave-action; water-level; sand-; erosion-rates; hydraulic-models; coastal-engineering; experimental-data; coastal-erosion; geomorphology-; boulder-clay
ID: till-
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Topography-and-morphology-2263
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9500485
AN: 3661273
UD: 9503

                                                                     21 of 380
TI: Inertial waves in the Ibiza Channel
AU: Garcia-Lafuente,-J.; Lucaya,-N.C.
AF: Dep. Phys., Univ. Malaga, Spain
SO: J.-MAR.-SYST. 1994 vol. 5, no. 6, pp. 445-459
IS: ISSN 0924-7963
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
AB: Currentmeter data taken in the Ibiza Channel show the almost permanent presence of near-inertial motions below the mixed layer. They correspond to downwards progressing waves with a vertical group velocity of some m/day. The presence of the Balearic Front sensibly affects the propagation of these inertial waves. Although situations exist in which the passage of atmospheric fronts along the Channel is clearly the generating force of these near-inertial motions we find others in which the energy density in mid-depths is higher than in any other depth. These last situations are closely related to the arrival to the Channel of some of the different water masses which flow around there. A clear correspondence between the presence of relatively strong inertial waves and a noticeable vertical shear of the subinertial flow, evidenced by an averaged Richardson number, is also observed. In some circumstances, the vertical shear of the whole flow (inertial plus subinertial) is higher than the stability limit, that is, Ri < 0.25, favoring the breaking of the internal waves. This could be a plausible cause of their decay and a reason to explain why they do not penetrate further than certain depths.
DE: MED,-Spain,-Balearic-I.,-Ibiza-Channel; inertial-waves; current-meter-data; oceanic-fronts; vertical-profiles; velocity-gradients
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Internal-waves-and-microstructure-2166
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Mediterranean (MED)
IC: CS9500784
AN: 3661257
UD: 9503

                                                                     22 of 380
TI: Observations of underwater sound from laboratory breaking waves and the implications concerning ambient noise in the ocean
AU: Kolaini,-A.R.; Crum,-L.A.
AF: Natl. Cent. Phys. Acoust., Univ. Mississippi, University, MS 38677, USA
SO: J.-ACOUST.-SOC.-AM. 1994 vol. 96, no. 3, pp. 1755-1765
IS: ISSN 0001-4966
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: The results of an experiment to characterize the underwater sound field radiated by various breaking waves intensities in fresh water in the range from 0.1 to 20 kHz are described. Waves are generated by a computer-controlled plunging-type wave maker and propagate along a 12.7-m-long channel where they are made to break at the mid-surface of a 3- x 3- x 2.5-m anechoic water tank. The individual bubbles and bubble clouds entrained by the breaking wave provide a mechanism for sound production. Using high-speed cinephotography, correlations were established between the hydrodynamic evolution of the cloud and the radiated acoustic emissions. The bubble size distributions inside the cloud were measured with the aid of a high-speed video camera and a fiber optic cable. These measurements indicate that single bubbles with radii as large as 7-8 mm may be entrained in this fresh-water system by moderate spilling breakers. Detailed measurements of the bubble size distribution of the bubble cloud enabled us also to obtain a measurement of the average void fraction in the cloud. These observations reveal that the sources of sound in laboratory spilling breakers is due mostly to single bubble oscillations that can have frequencies as low as 400 Hz; in the case of plunging breakers, it appears that both individual bubbles and bubble clouds can contribute to the acoustic emissions. The acoustic radiation from bubble clouds is the result of collective oscillations of the bubbles, stimulated by large scale vortices created by the plunging breaker. The sound spectra, averaged over 100 breakers, reveal the following observations. First, the peak frequencies of the average sound spectra shifts from few kHz (weak, spilling breaker) to few hundred Hz (plunging breaker). Second, the sound pressure levels increase in all frequency bands with increasing breaker severity. Lastly, the high-frequency portions of the sound spectra have slopes of about 5-6 dB/oct, which are the slopes observed for the noise spectra of the ocean. These results provide considerable insight into the likely source mechanisms for ocean ambient noise.
DE: breaking-waves; sound-generation; ambient-noise; noise-sound; spectral-analysis
CL: Underwater-Acoustics:-Noise-and-bioacoustics-2205
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9500945
AN: 3659285
UD: 9503

                                                                     23 of 380
TI: Dynamics of large and small scale bedforms on a macrotidal shoreface under shoaling and breaking waves
AU: Osborne,-P.D.; Vincent,-C.E.
AF: Dep. Geogr., Scarborough Camp., Univ. Toronto, Scarborough, ON M1C 1A4, Canada
SO: MAR.-GEOL. 1993 vol. 115, no. 3-4, pp. 207-226
IS: ISSN 0025-3227
PY: 1993
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Bedform dimensions, bed position changes, near-bed velocities and suspended sand concentrations are analyzed from measurements at a single location on a macro tidal beach in the south west of England. The study was conducted in 0.5-2.25 m water depth under both swell and wind-generated storm waves with both weak and strong currents present. Bed positions and suspended sand concentrations were measured using the 3 transducers of a multi-frequency acoustic backscatter sensor with 5 mm vertical resolution. Two distinct bed types, based on wavelength ( lambda ), were observed, each with two or more subtypes possible: (I) small-scale bedforms ( lambda  < 20 cm) which include two-dimensional pre-vortex (1), vortex (2), post-vortex (3) and three-dimensional vortex (4) forms; (II) large-scale bedforms ( lambda  > 20 cm) which include two-dimensional (5) forms and three-dimensional vortex (6) forms. Small-scale forms were dominant under non-breaking conditions while the large-scale forms occurred under both non-breaking and breaking waves; the large-scale forms dominate under breaking conditions. Both types, but particularly low steepness forms, were highly mobile with maximum horizontal migration rates of 5 cm/min. Large (upto 15 cm) and rapid (upto 3.0 cm/min) changes in vertical bed elevation were also observed in association with the development and migration of large-scale forms. Large-scale bedforms were also highly variable spatially, often being interspersed with smaller scale forms under decaying flow regimes and with areas of flat bed under increasing regimes. Observations suggest these forms are present even under high energy surf zone conditions (wave Shields  greater than or equal to  1). Models for predicting ripple dimensions did not perform well in this environment. This lack of agreement reflects the complex hydrodynamic regimes associated with random (grouped) shoaling and breaking waves together with the presence of currents, often at large angles to the waves, as well as the rapid rates of change in the wave forcing associated with tidal cycle oscillations in this macrotidal environment. Suspended sediment concentrations and transport rates are particularly sensitive to the bedforms present and also to bed position changes associated with ripple migration. Estimates of transport rates are subject to potentially large errors (upto 30%) without compensation for bed elevation changes relative to sensor position.
DE: ANE,-British-Isles,-England; bed-forms; tidal-effects; breaking-waves; shoaling-waves; wave-forces; beaches-; sediment-transport
CL: Geology-and-Geophysics:-Topography-and-morphology-2263
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
OZ: Atlantic-Northeast (ANE)
IC: CS9500924
AN: 3659264
UD: 9503

                                                                     24 of 380
TI: Wave-height distribution in storm sea: Effect of wave breaking
AU: Green,-M.O.
AF: NIWA Ecosystems, P.O. Box 11-115, Hamilton, New Zealand
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1994 vol. 120, no. 3, pp. 283-301
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Burst-pressure data from 25-m water depth are used to test a model of wave-height distribution that incorporates wave breaking. The measurements are of waves from a severe storm and from the periods of calmer weather bracketing the storm. Burst H sub(RMS) ranged from 0.09 m to 5.42 m, the highest significant wave height (H sub(1/3)) was 7.41 m, and the highest burst-maximum wave height (H sub(max)) was 11.82 m. The Rayleigh model overestimated the number of observed high waves, and consequently the predicted H sub(1/3) and H sub(max) were in error. Tayfun's model of the breaking-limited wave-height distribution, which is applicable to a marrow-band free surface, more accurately reproduced the observed exceedance probabilities, although imperfect crest-trough correlation, which is guaranteed in an irregular wave train, could also account for the paucity of high waves. Nevertheless, the data support the Stokes-type breaking criterion that underpins Tayfun's model, and the breaking-limited model produced significantly better predictions of H sub(1/3) and H sub(max) at the height of the storm.
DE: wave-height; wave-action; wave-crest; water-depth; storms-; ocean-waves; surface-water-waves; wave-measurement; wave-crests
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9421621
AN: 3653774
UD: 9503

                                                                     25 of 380
TI: Crest-breaking time-lapse approach for measuring breaker angle
AU: Chandramohan,-P.; Nayak,-B.U.; Anand,-N.M.
AF: Nat. Inst. Oceanogr., Goa 403 004, India
SO: J.-WATERWAY-PORT-COAST.-OCEAN-ENG. 1994 vol. 120, no. 3, pp. 318-325
IS: ISSN 0733-950X
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Estimation of breaker angle in a littoral environmental observation (LEO) program is still based on a visual method and therefore is subjective. Breaker angles thus measured generally vary from person to person. In the absence of a sophisticated wave-direction recording instrument, a simple and practical method has been evolved based on the time lapse between the wave breaking progressively at two points along the crest parallel to the shoreline. This method removes to a greater extent the subjectivity in observation, thereby making it a more reliable practical procedure. The method can be readily adopted for field observation by coastal engineers.
DE: wave-crests; wave-direction; sediment-transport; mathematical-analysis; breaking-waves; wave-measurement; coastal-engineering; measuring-devices; wave-crest
ID: breaking-waves
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9421619
AN: 3653766
UD: 9503

                                                                     26 of 380
TI: Laboratory studies of shallow breaking wave forces acting on vertical circular cylinder
AU: Li,-Yanbao
AF: Dep. Water Resour. Port Eng., Tianjin Univ., Tianjin 300072, People's Rep. China
SO: OCEANOL.-LIMNOL.-SIN.-HAIYANG-YU-HUZHAO 1992 vol. 23, no. 6, pp. 635-641
IS: ISSN 0029-814X
PY: 1992
LA: Chinese
LS: Chinese; English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Analysis of breaking waves forces on vertical circular cylinder showed that the forces resulting from the breaking wave passing through a cylinder are composed of an impact force caused by the rapid variation of momentum with the change of virtual mass of cylinder and an additional pressure force due to the difference of water levels between the lee and stoss sides of the cylinder and that the factors determining breaking wave forces on vertical cylinder should be the steepness of the deep water wave, the bottom slope, and the relative cylinder diameter. The first two determine the characteristics of the breaking wave while the third represents the effect of the cylinder itself on the breaking wave forces.
DE: wave-forces; breaking-waves; shoaling-waves; wave-action; cylindrical-structures; experimental-research
CL: Marine-Technology:-Hydrodynamics,-wave,-current-and-ice-forces-2284
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CH9400861
AN: 3645746
UD: 9503

                                                                     27 of 380
TI: Numerical simulation of nonlinear wave propagation over a bar
AU: Beji,-S.; Battjes,-J.A.
AF: Nav. Architec. Ocean Eng. Fac., Istanbul Tech. Univ., Turkey
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1994 vol. 23, no. 1-2, pp. 1-16
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Numerical computations based on a one-dimensional time domain Boussinesq model with improved dispersion characteristics are carried out to model relatively long, unidirectional waves propagating over a submerged obstacle. Comparisons for non-breaking waves show good agreement between the numerical results and measurements obtained from experiments in a wave flume with a submerged trapezoidal bar. The observed phenomena of bound harmonics generation in the shoaling region (upslope) and their release, or wave decomposition, in the deepening part of the flume (downslope) are well predicted by the numerical model both for regular and random waves. The inclusion of the effects of wave breaking is briefly discussed.
DE: wave-propagation; nonlinear-waves; sand-bars; bottom-topography-effects; numerical-analysis
CL: Dynamical-Oceanography-and-Limnology:-Wind-waves-2168
JA: ASFA-2:-Ocean-Technology-Policy-and-Non-Living-Resources (Q2)
IC: CS9420736
AN: 3645549
UD: 9503

                                                                     28 of 380
TI: Wave transformation on a coral reef
AU: Gourlay,-M.R.
AF: Dep. Civ. Eng., Univ. Queensland, Brisbane, Qld. 4072, Australia
SO: COAST.-ENG. 1994 vol. 23, no. 1-2, pp. 17-42
IS: ISSN 0378-3839
PY: 1994
LA: English
LS: English
PT: J (Journal-Article)
ER: M (Marine)
AB: Wave transformation of regular waves was measured in a laboratory model of a fringing reef with a steep face and an outer reef-top slope gradually decreasing in the landward direction. Data was obtained for various wave conditions and water levels. A nonlinearity parameter, F sub(co) = g super(1.25)H sub(o) super(0.5)T super(2.5)/h sub(e) super(1.75), based upon one proposed by Swart and Loubser (1979), is proposed as a suitable parameter for classifying wave transformation regimes on this reef. In particular, when F sub(co) > 150, waves plunge on the reef edge and the amount of wave energy reaching a shore or structure is small (<16%). When F sub(co)  less